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Old 03-26-2019, 06:51 PM   #126 (permalink)
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Well I think I figured out the trans surging issue........

Turns out they work better when they aren't low on trans fluid I filled it after I installed it and forgot to check it after I ran it and got all the air out. It actually puts down a noticeable difference in power, it will spin the tires in 2 high now.
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Old 03-27-2019, 01:23 PM   #127 (permalink)
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Clearances the fenders a little more. The front barely rubs the firewall at full stuff and it's actually a smooth area, so not too bad.



The rear was still rubbing pretty bad on the fender lip, I pulled the tire on the passenger side and hammered the lip over. For some reason, I didn't do the driver side and this time out I ended up chunking the outter lugs pretty bad

We went out for a few hours in the pouring rain today. Climbed some really steep muddy hills will out spinning a tire. The thing is actually pretty plush, the only thing that sucks is that you can feel and hear the shocks topping out over bumps. I'm going to grab some longer ones for the rear using this graph, and I'll worry about the struts after I redo the front end.

Suzuki Sidekick – Geo Tracker Shock Options : Zuki Offroad

Had the 18 month old, 3 month old and the wife (6 yr old is at school) What's funny is that in certain ways there is more room in this little thing than the 90 and 96 4runners we have/had. The seating position and leg room is way better, there is a ton of head room and it really doesn't feel much narrower, if at all. All 3 have the same width factory axles, so maybe they aren't that far off. The zuk is definitely shorter, less room between the front and rear seats and about half the room behind the rear seats.

Anyways, the reason I posted an update, we broke it!

Got stuck in this nasty clay hole. As I was on the come a long, the wife was giving it steady throttle and sawing the wheel a little. Right when the front was starting to grab harder ground, it stopped spinning. I'm guessing passenger side cv since it was making noise right before that, both had torn boots.



So I guess I'll be working on the front end sooner than later.
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Old 03-27-2019, 06:41 PM   #128 (permalink)
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Fyi Jordan usually has between 2 and 20 its toyotas in various stages of being parted out and built. He probably has any random parts you need
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89 and carbed with a 4 speed. That's like saying the hooker was great, but she had a penis and herpes.
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Old 03-27-2019, 10:35 PM   #129 (permalink)
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Fyi Jordan usually has between 2 and 20 its toyotas in various stages of being parted out and built. He probably has any random parts you need
Of course he has the stuff I need, too bad you guys are too far away, and paying $100 to ship a $25 diff is hard to justify.

There are a million 2nd Gen 4runners being parted out and 4.56 was somewhat common, so I should be able to come across one. Plus it's one of the few parts no one wants off of them.
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Old 03-28-2019, 05:19 AM   #130 (permalink)
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That thing is awesome! I'm super interested to see how the toy IFS diff fits and installs. I have that IFS stuff available to me but I'm out of samurai t-cases.
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Old 03-28-2019, 07:16 PM   #131 (permalink)
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So I spent the day pulling my dual case and 60s out of my burnt 4runner. I'm pretty optimistic that the tcases are good (twin sticks, marlin 23 spline adapter and 4.7 rear, longfield chromo rear output and marlin 30 spline front output) they still have oil in them, shift fine and spin like normal.

If someone made an adapter to go straight from the 3spd to toyota cases, I would have ordered it already. From what I found, low range made one for a while but it looks like it's discontinued?

I guess I should just stick with the Sami case for now, but having those cases available makes it tempting.

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Old 03-29-2019, 08:13 PM   #132 (permalink)
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The last 5 or so posts here might help out a little or at least give you ideas

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/suzu...anger-kit.html
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89 and carbed with a 4 speed. That's like saying the hooker was great, but she had a penis and herpes.
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Old 03-29-2019, 11:24 PM   #133 (permalink)
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The last 5 or so posts here might help out a little or at least give you ideas

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/suzu...anger-kit.html
Thanks

I came across those pics searching as well. Og kicker 4. My old samurai had the ott divorced adapter to dual Toyota cases.

It's too bad ott isn't still around they made neat odd ball stuff.

I remember seeing a 22re to sm420 adapter kit on their site

Like I was saying over text, I like the idea of trying to broach the zuk splines into the tcase input. The problem I would imagine is that you can't broach a blind hole.

The other idea would be to steal the female input out of the tracker tcase, then bore a hole into the Toyota tcase with a tight press fit, then tig them together.

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Old 03-30-2019, 09:37 AM   #134 (permalink)
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I have a spare kick case. It's an 89 so you cant gear it and it's not worth much but if you need parts.
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89 and carbed with a 4 speed. That's like saying the hooker was great, but she had a penis and herpes.
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Old 03-30-2019, 09:42 AM   #135 (permalink)
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I have a spare kick case. It's an 89 so you cant gear it and it's not worth much but if you need parts
OK, thanks, I'll have 2, but I guess it would be smart not to tear apart good cases.
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Old 03-31-2019, 05:53 AM   #136 (permalink)
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I'm pretty sure I have calmini strut spacers at the house if you want them. I definitely had them, they were installed on the Green 2wd and the new struts broke right away. I pulled the spacers when I did the A-arm conversion. I'll put them in the mail when I get home if you can use them.
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Old 03-31-2019, 08:57 AM   #137 (permalink)
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I'm pretty sure I have calmini strut spacers at the house if you want them. I definitely had them, they were installed on the Green 2wd and the new struts broke right away. I pulled the spacers when I did the A-arm conversion. I'll put them in the mail when I get home if you can use them.
I appreciate that, I'm wondering if adding more down travel would be bad for the cv's and steering?

I guess I'll take them, let me know what you want for them.

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Old 03-31-2019, 05:41 PM   #138 (permalink)
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I appreciate that, I'm wondering if adding more down travel would be bad for the cv's and steering?

I guess I'll take them, let me know what you want for them.

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I'm days from the house but I'll look for them as soon as I get home. Even the spacer lifts use strut spacers to get the shock to not over extend, you'll want them. I just gotta make sure I can find them both, I threw them in my scrap pile still bolted to two broken struts so I'll let you know if I have them.
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Old 03-31-2019, 06:29 PM   #139 (permalink)
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I'm days from the house but I'll look for them as soon as I get home. Even the spacer lifts use strut spacers to get the shock to not over extend, you'll want them. I just gotta make sure I can find them both, I threw them in my scrap pile still bolted to two broken struts so I'll let you know if I have them.
Sounds good, thank you.
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Old 04-02-2019, 09:08 PM   #140 (permalink)
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So a buddy sent me a link to a way to good of a deal on a 4.56 diff with an arb......... Unfortunately it's a Tacoma diff so it's driver drop and high pinion, it's cheap enough I may grab it just for the arb. It would drop into the 96 4runner I have also if it doesn't work out with the suzuki.

Snowballs are a bitch
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Old 04-02-2019, 10:49 PM   #141 (permalink)
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I was thinking about the offer on the strut spacers and remembered that I could tell the ones on it are pretty blown out, sooooo.....

I did some googling and decided to try the cheap-o route with the shocks and struts.

Rear shocks

Suzuki Sidekick – Geo Tracker Shock Options : Zuki Offroad

Front struts

Longer Struts For Your Geo Tracker – Suzuki Sidekick : Zuki Offroad

So the rear is just a list of stem top style shocks that are longer, pretty simple.

The front I figured would be harder since they're struts, but someone figured out some gm cars that have a very similar rear strut that will bolt up with a little egging out of one hole.

For those who don't know, apparently there is roughly 2" of strut shaft showing even after you are on the bump stops. These struts have a 1 3/4" longer body, which works out, plus that nets 3 1/4" more extended length.

Paid like $110 for all 4 on Amazon, so we'll see.
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Old 04-03-2019, 05:37 AM   #142 (permalink)
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Snowballs are a bitch
Yeah they are!

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Paid like $110 for all 4 on Amazon, so we'll see.
Interested to see what you think of them. So you don't need the spacers?
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Old 04-03-2019, 07:05 AM   #143 (permalink)
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Yeah they are!



Interested to see what you think of them. So you don't need the spacers?
I'll hold off on them for now, thanks again.

As far as the cheap-o shocks, I'm not setting the bar to high. Honestly, I'm not bashing it too hard as far as speed or jumps or whatever. Just want something to ride nice.

Im really thinking about collecting parts to build this thing into a crawler down the road. So I don't want to go to crazy on shocks, that might get tossed anyway.
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Old 04-03-2019, 08:31 AM   #144 (permalink)
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I was thinking about the offer on the strut spacers and remembered that I could tell the ones on it are pretty blown out, sooooo.....

I did some googling and decided to try the cheap-o route with the shocks and struts.

Rear shocks

Suzuki Sidekick Geo Tracker Shock Options : Zuki Offroad

Front struts

Longer Struts For Your Geo Tracker Suzuki Sidekick : Zuki Offroad

So the rear is just a list of stem top style shocks that are longer, pretty simple.

The front I figured would be harder since they're struts, but someone figured out some gm cars that have a very similar rear strut that will bolt up with a little egging out of one hole.

For those who don't know, apparently there is roughly 2" of strut shaft showing even after you are on the bump stops. These struts have a 1 3/4" longer body, which works out, plus that nets 3 1/4" more extended length.

Paid like $110 for all 4 on Amazon, so we'll see.
that goes for 1st gen only, not 2nd gen. you will top the shock out long before you hit the bump stop. I know because im running those struts. you will either need to space the bump stop down and limit your down travel (its going to droop out ALOT) or reverse your strut mount spacers to move the mounts up higher. cruise through my thread and look for the red spacers. I gained 2" of down travel (about perfect for max droop/angle on stock CV) and still had full up travel. i have 10" of wheel travel overall with this setup.
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Old 04-03-2019, 09:30 AM   #145 (permalink)
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that goes for 1st gen only, not 2nd gen. you will top the shock out long before you hit the bump stop. I know because im running those struts. you will either need to space the bump stop down and limit your down travel (its going to droop out ALOT) or reverse your strut mount spacers to move the mounts up higher. cruise through my thread and look for the red spacers. I gained 2" of down travel (about perfect for max droop/angle on stock CV) and still had full up travel. i have 10" of wheel travel overall with this setup.
So the stock struts on the 2nd Gen are near bottomed out when they hit the bump stops?

I may lower the diff a little when I mount it
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Old 04-03-2019, 09:46 AM   #146 (permalink)
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So the stock struts on the 2nd Gen are near bottomed out when they hit the bump stops?

I may lower the diff a little when I mount it
yes sir. i attempted to just cut/reweld the top strut mount for more down travel on stock struts like 1st gen guys have done. cutting them flush made for way too much down travel and damn near bottomed out at ride height. split the difference and i would slam the strut into the mount on a decent hit well before the bump hit.

there isnt very much from the 1st gen that crosses over here sadly. the strut you bought will still need the same mods and will work but will require the mount height adjustment via a spacer. you will loose the cross bar in doing this as well as it will be way too high unless you modify that too.

sorry i keep bursting your bubble on all this. feel like the negative nancy over here lmao

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Old 04-03-2019, 10:35 AM   #147 (permalink)
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I like the idea of trying to broach the zuk splines into the tcase input. The problem I would imagine is that you can't broach a blind hole.
I'm not much help all the way over here, but it is possible to broach a blind hole.
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Old 04-03-2019, 12:44 PM   #148 (permalink)
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yes sir. i attempted to just cut/reweld the top strut mount for more down travel on stock struts like 1st gen guys have done. cutting them flush made for way too much down travel and damn near bottomed out at ride height. split the difference and i would slam the strut into the mount on a decent hit well before the bump hit.

there isnt very much from the 1st gen that crosses over here sadly. the strut you bought will still need the same mods and will work but will require the mount height adjustment via a spacer. you will loose the cross bar in doing this as well as it will be way too high unless you modify that too.

sorry i keep bursting your bubble on all this. feel like the negative nancy over here lmao
No worries, I keep reading stuff assuming it applies to the 2nd Gen and I need to stop all info is welcome.

I'll make it work one way or another. Right now the struts are topped out at ride height, so anything I do would

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I'm not much help all the way over here, but it is possible to broach a blind hole.
OK, but is it realistic? Home much would would you think it would cost to broach one input?

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Old 04-04-2019, 08:50 AM   #149 (permalink)
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OK, but is it realistic? Home much would would you think it would cost to broach one input?
We did it in CNC lathes. straight tool shaped like a single tooth of the spline that would punch in with nothing rotating taking little bites, stepping over until full depth, then index the part 1 tooth and start over. I don't know of any manual lathes that you can lock and index the head on, but with someone willing to get creative its doable on home scale.

Cost? Fucked if I know
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Old 04-04-2019, 02:15 PM   #150 (permalink)
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We did it in CNC lathes. straight tool shaped like a single tooth of the spline that would punch in with nothing rotating taking little bites, stepping over until full depth, then index the part 1 tooth and start over. I don't know of any manual lathes that you can lock and index the head on, but with someone willing to get creative its doable on home scale.

Cost? Fucked if I know
Makes sense, the hard part may be the size. Zuk output it like 1" Dia
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