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-   -   Some kind of wannabe sxs build (side by sidekick?) (https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2676146)

YotaAtieToo 01-27-2019 08:41 PM

Some kind of wannabe sxs build (side by sidekick?)
 
A while back I picked up an 8v/3spd auto/4x4/2 door sidekick. It was rough, but a buddy wanted some of the parts and I wanted the 3spd auto for a kid buggy. Got it kinda running and then lost interest.

Fast forward a few years and pretty much everything myself and my buddy owned were lost in the camp fire. Except this stupid pos sidekick :rolleyes: I ended up renting a place on 3 wooded acres that backs up to logging land, so I was figuring I may as well bring it up to beat around here.

While trying to get it running right, I had swapped ecu's to see if it would help. Well I guess I forgot to put 1 of them back in, because they all burned. So I hit up a few people I know with zuk stuff and ended up with a good ecu and an entire 4 door 99 with a 2.0 and blown 5 spd :laughing:

https://i.postimg.cc/fyZgLc9C/Message-1548612062176.jpg

Thank a lot 2big bronco :flipoff2:

I also noticed this on the 2 door when I loaded it up to bring it here

https://i.postimg.cc/Px1RT3PN/Message-1548624281461.jpg

So now I have a 2 door with a motor that runs like shit and a broken frame, and a 4 door with a blown clutch and reverse gear.

Fix the frame and drop the 2.0 into the 2 door, swap the auto into the 4 door or drop the 2 door body and trans on a shortened 4 door frame?

DannyK 01-31-2019 02:41 PM

I vote swap the auto in the four door.

YotaAtieToo 01-31-2019 11:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DannyK (Post 44297410)
I vote swap the auto in the four door.

That's my plan as of now, I do like the 2 door/soft top body better, but the idea behind this whole thing is to have something to use, not a huge project.

I actually placed an order with trail tough today. Thier 2.0 flex plate to 3spd auto tq converter spacer, a used flex plate, a rear mini spool and front locker. As well as a set of tires from Amazon prime :grinpimp:

I was really close to adding the 4.24s tcase gears to the order, but I'm not sure if they will fit the bill for this thing or not. I'm worried that I'll be stuck between high range and low range too often while bashing around. The 3.0 gears are a consideration, but not sure if it's worth the money for the little drop. I feel like a Sami case with a a 4.xx gear set would be perfect with the high range reduction.

YotaAtieToo 02-11-2019 03:06 PM

Got tires

https://i.postimg.cc/mrwTgMnQ/20190207-175344.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/ZqZTmjwb/20190210-181051.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/sXgsQxFb/20190210-181113.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/mDpRQ4Bk/20190210-181124.jpg

Alex456123 02-11-2019 08:28 PM

I vote fix the frame on the 2 door and 2.0 swap it. Those 2nd gen chassis' have minimal aftermarket and the wheelbase wont help you on the technical stuff.

DannyK 02-12-2019 05:54 AM

What are the specs on those tires? They look good.

YotaAtieToo 02-12-2019 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DannyK (Post 44315514)
What are the specs on those tires? They look good.

32x10x15 Maxxis carnivore, about $160 ea shipped to me. Almost 1" of tread depth and obviously much bigger voids than a typical truck tire. From what I hear, they are super soft and hook up well on rock.

YotaAtieToo 02-13-2019 11:16 AM

Still waiting on parts from trail tough. I was kinda surprised at how loose thier customer service has been.

Ordered parts, and never received an order confirmation or I give it 4-5 days before calling them. She said they received the order but the front lockers are "built to order" (doesn't mention this anywhere on the site) and they would ship out that Friday (8th) today our card was charged which I assume means it shipped out. Although I never received a shipping confirmation email.

All in all its not a big deal, I just expected better communication from them. Oh well.

86chevyjoe 02-14-2019 03:25 PM

nice choice on the carni's, you'll like them! i too would ditch the trackick tcase and put in a sami case

YotaAtieToo 02-14-2019 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86chevyjoe (Post 44320002)
nice choice on the carni's, you'll like them! i too would ditch the trackick tcase and put in a sami case

Thanks for the suggestion. I liked the black waters for being a strait up utv tire, but I liked the square profile of the carnivore.

I'm going to just see how it goes with a stock track kick case. It should have 5.13s, so high range might be use able with the auto. If so, I might go to the 4.24s. If not I'll leave it stock and keep my eyes open for a Sami case. I did salvage one from my garage that looks ok-ish. But it had water in it before the fire. Not sure if trail tough would be happy with it as a core :laughing:

BLOODBANE 02-14-2019 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44318026)
Still waiting on parts from trail tough. I was kinda surprised at how loose thier customer service has been.

Ordered parts, and never received an order confirmation or I give it 4-5 days before calling them. She said they received the order but the front lockers are "built to order" (doesn't mention this anywhere on the site) and they would ship out that Friday (8th) today our card was charged which I assume means it shipped out. Although I never received a shipping confirmation email.

All in all its not a big deal, I just expected better communication from them. Oh well.

Brent and his folks up there are top notch. If you got charged you will get the product. I have ordered countless items form TT and never been disappointed once.

You got a nice build going on here. Looking forward to seeing it done.

YotaAtieToo 02-14-2019 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BLOODBANE (Post 44320474)
Brent and his folks up there are top notch. If you got charged you will get the product. I have ordered countless items form TT and never been disappointed once.

You got a nice build going on here. Looking forward to seeing it done.

I'm not worried about not getting the product. But stating that the lockers were custom order and to expect 2 weeks to receive them would have been cool. I would have paid for the rest of my order to be shipped out right away and the locker later had I known. Could have had the auto in the 4 door by now. Again, not a big deal.

Also, what's the deal with the 2.0 alternator price? Orileys wants $189 for one! Hopefully they will price match the $80 one I found online.

86chevyjoe 02-15-2019 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44320246)
Thanks for the suggestion. I liked the black waters for being a strait up utv tire, but I liked the square profile of the carnivore.

I'm going to just see how it goes with a stock track kick case. It should have 5.13s, so high range might be use able with the auto. If so, I might go to the 4.24s. If not I'll leave it stock and keep my eyes open for a Sami case. I did salvage one from my garage that looks ok-ish. But it had water in it before the fire. Not sure if trail tough would be happy with it as a core :laughing:

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44320690)
Also, what's the deal with the 2.0 alternator price? Orileys wants $189 for one! Hopefully they will price match the $80 one I found online.

you're going to like the carni's, they just wear fast! bastards are super soft, but work great in the snow and rocks! i forgot you have the 2.0L now - i think that motor with the 3 speed auto and 5.13s will work damn good on 32s! i wanted to do those 3.0 gears in a trackick range box with stock toyota case behind it :smokin:

i have a spare alternator if you need one, they are crazy expensive. i'd just buy used ones from u-pull it lol, every now and again i'd get a bad one :laughing:

YotaAtieToo 02-15-2019 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86chevyjoe (Post 44321838)
you're going to like the carni's, they just wear fast! bastards are super soft, but work great in the snow and rocks! i forgot you have the 2.0L now - i think that motor with the 3 speed auto and 5.13s will work damn good on 32s! i wanted to do those 3.0 gears in a trackick range box with stock toyota case behind it :smokin:

i have a spare alternator if you need one, they are crazy expensive. i'd just buy used ones from u-pull it lol, every now and again i'd get a bad one :laughing:

I'm going to keep an eye out for some ~31" at or mt's to keep wear of the Maxxis'

I'm hoping so, it's not going to be a crazy wheeler or anything. The tires are probably way overkill for what I'm intending. I'm sure some 30" mt's would have been more than enough, I really just have wanted to run utv tires on a suzuki for a while, :laughing:

Thanks for the offer, I actually just got one from orileys today. He wouldn't match the $85 on Amazon because his was lifetime warranty, and the Amazon one was 1 year, but he came down from $189 to $150. I have not had great experience with the reman alternators from any of the parts stores, so the lifetime warranty was worth the extra money to me.

I got a welder and am starting to get the garage set up, I need to pull the 3spd out of the 2 door and get it out of the garage so I can actually start working on the 4 door.

2big bronco 02-16-2019 10:31 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I'm jelly of the tires. The money I got for the red one with green doors bought some new parts for the green one with red doors. I think your in for a surprise when you realize how much trimming/ sawzall demo your going to need to do to clear those tires. I might have to get myself a set.

YotaAtieToo 02-16-2019 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44323494)
I'm jelly of the tires. The money I got for the red one with green doors bought some new parts for the green one with red doors. I think your in for a surprise when you realize how much trimming/ sawzall demo your going to need to do to clear those tires. I might have to get myself a set.

Hard to tell, did you get new a arms? I like the canuk made ones that push the tire forward. Would help out a huge amount. Are these newer "vitaras" rack and pinion?

I have kinda had that in my head since before I ordered them. I could have just got 30s and it would have been way easier, but where's the fun in that? My last rig (90 4runner) started out with stock ifs and 35s, so this can't be that hard? I do have some 1.5-2" coil spacers on the 2 door I'm hoping to use on the 4 door. It does look like I'm trying to fit 40s on the thing when I roll it up next to it :laughing:

Anyways, got a little bit done. I ended up just trimming the excess lip of the wheel after I welded the ring on. Made it way easier to mount the tire, more similar to a manufactured beadlock. For anyone who hasn't heard how to check your welds for leaks, listen up, it will save you a lot of headaches. I read this on here after having issues with my last weld on beadlocks.

Take an air nozzle and stick it under the ring, spray soap and water on the welds. You will have leaks where you started and stopped, a trick I learned is to overlap your start and stops, which helps. Mark the leaks, grind them out and weld over them. Repeat if necessary. No sealant to mess with, no leaking wheels, just mount the tires and go, like it should be.

I did have a little trouble with the tires almost being to small around the outter edge of the bead. The ring wanted to sit up on the sidewall on one side and I kinda have the same issue on the back side of the wheel. I brought the tire inside for the night since it's been in the 30s and snowing, hoping the heat will let it stretch out a little.

https://i.postimg.cc/wj4bM04J/20190216-184837.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/tg1vxW8c/20190216-185053.jpg

2big bronco 02-17-2019 12:39 PM

Wow, I love the look of the sami wheels with the beadlocks.


Yes they are rack and pinion.

The front isnt to bad to trim. You just cut everything you can and then take a 4lb beater to the firewall. It's the rear that is going to be a pita. These things flex so good that you will have to cut the wheel wells and any more then the rolled edge and you are into the interior. If you pulled the carpet it wouldnt be to bad to just stitch in some new sheet metal strips to keep it sealed off.

YotaAtieToo 02-17-2019 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44323968)
Wow, I love the look of the sami wheels with the beadlocks.


Yes they are rack and pinion.

The front isnt to bad to trim. You just cut everything you can and then take a 4lb beater to the firewall. It's the rear that is going to be a pita. These things flex so good that you will have to cut the wheel wells and any more then the rolled edge and you are into the interior. If you pulled the carpet it wouldnt be to bad to just stitch in some new sheet metal strips to keep it sealed off.

I like it a lot, I've been want to do this exact thing for a while. I figured the added width of the weld on kit is about perfect for the 10" tires. Around 6.5" I believe. I will admit that the manufactured circle track bead locks were tempting for around $140 ea. But more were 8" Wide and I wasn't sure what bs I was going to need. If I have to get spacers for these (I already know I do) it'll still be cheaper than the manufactured wheels. And I like the narrower wheel.

I'll make something happen, I'm not to afraid to cut whatever is in the way. The carpet is pretty gross, so it'll probably come out too. I may just space the bump stops down if it gets too crazy. I'm going to kinda test fit this one right now and figure out what spacers I need.

2big bronco 02-17-2019 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44324094)
I'm going to kinda test fit this one right now and figure out what spacers I need.

Post pics, I might have to order those same tires. I found the same ones in a 29 so if you have to many problems I may get those

YotaAtieToo 02-17-2019 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44324600)
Post pics, I might have to order those same tires. I found the same ones in a 29 so if you have to many problems I may get those

I'm trying to, the internet really sucks up here and the pics won't upload :homer:

Also, can you pm me Jordans phone number, I need to put it on the title transfer.

YotaAtieToo 02-17-2019 09:15 PM

https://i.postimg.cc/s21g69MJ/20190217-132556.jpg

Half ass put it on the front. The later "vitara" calipers stick out further and won't work with stock Sami wheels. It's only like 1/2" at most, but the smallest spacers I saw were 1" so I ordered a pair. If they aren't enough, I'll order some 1.5" and put these on the rear. Pic is at full droop.

https://i.postimg.cc/V66nFCwy/20190217-134213.jpg

It wouldn't fit even at ride height with weight on it :laughing: I trimmed the bumper and beat in the front of the wheel well so at least it will roll around on flat ground. I only have 5 tires for each, so I basically need to get the 32s on the 4 door so I can have rollers for the 2 door. :laughing:

Also got the auto pulled, that was more of a pita than I expected. It's hard to get to anything with the inner fenders in the front. I just want to pull the coil spacers off the 2 door and then kick it out side and start on pulling the 5spd. Hopefully by the time it's out, I'll have my parts from trail tough.

I also need some type of trans cooler. I had really good luck with the heat sink cylinder type with my full hydro on my other rigs but I'm not sure if it would work good for a trans.

YotaAtieToo 02-25-2019 05:50 PM

Made some steady progress. Got the parts I need off the 2 door and kicked it outside. Also finished all the wheels and mounted tires.

Tacked rings

https://i.postimg.cc/t4f8NRy4/20190224-105650.jpg

Cut off lip

https://i.postimg.cc/6QNcFtRc/20190224-104018.jpg

Welded every other span, then grind a bevel about 1" into the ends of the weld.

https://i.postimg.cc/d012b338/20190224-154000.jpg

You over lap the welds to help it seal. That way you are nice and hot by the time you get to the end of the last weld. If you try to start in the same spot, it will leak, every time.

I'm sure some people are wondering why in the fuck I cut the lip off the wheel. Well for one, there was a huge gap that I felt would have been too much to fill. 2nd, I always hated how hard my last weld on beadlocks were to mount and dismount compared to a manufactured beadlock. I've noticed that manufactured beadlocks have a smaller OD on the outer lip, it doesn't need to be the full OD since it's bolted in place. I'm confident I won't have any problems, but we will see.

Looking like something finally

https://i.postimg.cc/vHQYzVcH/20190224-143113.jpg

Started tearing into the 4 door just a bit. Gotta pull the trans and both diffs, plus install coil spacers. The 2 door had 2" rears and about 1.5" in the front (which I assume will equal 2" lift with the leverage of the a arm) Does anyone think that will be too much without any other changes? CV angles? Rear link bind? They're aluminum, so I could get them turned down no problem. I had really good luck running 35s on my ifs 4runner and I believe part of that was because I left it all stock. No extra stress on everything by cranking the t bars.

Valley Rock 02-25-2019 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44290964)
Thanks a lot 2big bronco :flipoff2:



You gotta watch him, one of his texts cost me upwards of 15K ! :flipoff2:



Sorry to hear you lost all of your shit in that fire, can't imagine, you have a place to work on stuff and something to work on it with ?

I guess you got tools it seems, but working outdoors in this weather is sure no damn good

carslut 02-25-2019 09:11 PM

neat project.... excited to see the scale of it once your done.

YotaAtieToo 02-25-2019 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Valley Rock (Post 44336926)
You gotta watch him, one of his texts cost me upwards of 15K ! :flipoff2:



Sorry to hear you lost all of your shit in that fire, can't imagine, you have a place to work on stuff and something to work on it with ?

I guess you got tools it seems, but working outdoors in this weather is sure no damn good

Thanks.

Yes, I was fortunate enough to have a a good friend rent his house to us. Which includes a large 2 car garage. His truck is on one side and I'm using the other. I did the wheels outside so I didn't get grinder dust everywhere inside since there is still some other stuff in the garage. The 4 door is inside now. I've been able to replace some tools, yes. It can be frustrating at times not having everything, but it's a start.

jr4x 03-02-2019 09:21 AM

Awesome project! That looks like a fun kick ass cheap beater. When my ITP's are worn out I'm going to try out those Carnivore's in the 30" flavor. We should all go wheel the con or something when there's a handful of them done.

YotaAtieToo 03-02-2019 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44344076)
Awesome project! That looks like a fun kick ass cheap beater. When my ITP's are worn out I'm going to try out those Carnivore's in the 30" flavor. We should all go wheel the con or something when there's a handful of them done.

Yours was definitely an influence. I really wanted the more compact and lighter 2 door, but it's just to much work.

That would be a hoot to get a bunch together.

Don't you have a 4 door now? Did you keep the kick case or swap in the Sami case? I'm still up in the air on what to do tcase gearing wise.

jr4x 03-02-2019 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44344532)
Yours was definitely an influence. I really wanted the more compact and lighter 2 door, but it's just to much work.

That would be a hoot to get a bunch together.

Don't you have a 4 door now? Did you keep the kick case or swap in the Sami case? I'm still up in the air on what to do tcase gearing wise.

Yeah I'm rocking a 97 4 door 5 speed now. It was already 4wd so I put 4.24 gears in the t-case, I didn't want the hassle of a swap. The Sammy case is still in the green 2 door and my brother has it. If it was an auto it would be perfect, but with the manual trans I can stall it trying to ease into big obstacles, so I have to bump stuff harder than I'd like to not stall the engine.

YotaAtieToo 03-02-2019 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44344632)
Yeah I'm rocking a 97 4 door 5 speed now. It was already 4wd so I put 4.24 gears in the t-case, I didn't want the hassle of a swap. The Sammy case is still in the green 2 door and my brother has it. If it was an auto it would be perfect, but with the manual trans I can stall it trying to ease into big obstacles, so I have to bump stuff harder than I'd like to not stall the engine.

Gotcha, what about high range? Use able at all off road?

jr4x 03-03-2019 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44344648)
Gotcha, what about high range? Use able at all off road?

Absolutely not. Its barely useable on road. But you might be better off with the 2.0 than I am with the 1.6.

5th in 4 low leaves me wishing I had more top end but the suspension can't go much faster than what the gearing allows. The 1.8 low would probably be a nice mid range, but that's why I wish I had the Sammy case in it. 4.9 low ranges have 1.609 in high, I think that would be a perfect permanent high range as well,as the perfect low.

Again you having a 2.0 and running 32's leaves you in a different situation than I'm in currently.

TBH, I have a GM 2.5l and 700R4 I think I want to swap in with a single Toyota t-case. Only reason I haven't started already is my 1.6 is as good as 1.6's get, and the a/c works. Fun fact, five 200 pound men in my little 4 door leaves me with only 4 useable gears but it will still go 80 in 4th gear with the a/c on and 1000 pounds of dude in it. 5th is useless with that much weight in it.

YotaAtieToo 03-03-2019 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44345090)
Absolutely not. Its barely useable on road. But you might be better off with the 2.0 than I am with the 1.6.

5th in 4 low leaves me wishing I had more top end but the suspension can't go much faster than what the gearing allows. The 1.8 low would probably be a nice mid range, but that's why I wish I had the Sammy case in it. 4.9 low ranges have 1.609 in high, I think that would be a perfect permanent high range as well,as the perfect low.

Again you having a 2.0 and running 32's leaves you in a different situation than I'm in currently.

TBH, I have a GM 2.5l and 700R4 I think I want to swap in with a single Toyota t-case. Only reason I haven't started already is my 1.6 is as good as 1.6's get, and the a/c works. Fun fact, five 200 pound men in my little 4 door leaves me with only 4 useable gears but it will still go 80 in 4th gear with the a/c on and 1000 pounds of dude in it. 5th is useless with that much weight in it.

I was able to drive it around a little bit with the 5spd and it hauls but in high range, but stock 27" tires at street pressure is a whole different world than 32s aired down. However the auto should make up for a lot, especially since I believe I have 5.13s.

I'm with you on the Sami case. ~1.6 high and 4.xx low would probably be sweet with the auto. I don't plan on highway driving at all, so I'm not too worried about top speed with no OD. My plan is to just try it with stock low and see how it goes, I'm not planning on any real crawling anytime soon anyway. Plus it's what I have and it will give an idea on how it will be in 1:1 and 1.8, which would be similar to the high in a Sami case.

The one thing that Brent mentioned was to make sure I keep the late model tcase for the speed sensor in the tail housing, I'm not sure what if the 2.0 would like having it axed. I'd almost have to find a factory 2wd auto.... Sami case is just too much of a can of worms right now. Unless I just put it behind the tracker case :laughing: then run a 2 piece front shaft.

YotaAtieToo 03-03-2019 06:52 PM

Hard to find spare time for this project, but I was able to pull the blown 5spd out. Got the torque converter spacer/adapter tacked to the 2.0 flex plate. I'm happy trail tough makes this piece, however, some instructions would have been nice. I did figure it out though.

I'm thinking about doing the "hegan mod" to the front end. You basically redrill the rear a arm mounts. Which moves the tire out and forward while gaining a little caster and negative camber. Just need to track down an extra driver side cv axle and 2 more diff intermediate shafts or make a small cv spacer.

2big bronco 03-04-2019 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44345542)
Hard to find spare time for this project, but I was able to pull the blown 5spd out. Got the torque converter spacer/adapter tacked to the 2.0 flex plate. I'm happy trail tough makes this piece, however, some instructions would have been nice. I did figure it out though.

I'm thinking about doing the "hegan mod" to the front end. You basically redrill the rear a arm mounts. Which moves the tire out and forward while gaining a little caster and negative camber. Just need to track down an extra driver side cv axle and 2 more diff intermediate shafts or make a small cv spacer.



I have already beaten on the cheapo amazon cv shafts and they seem pretty solid.....But if doing the hagen mod anyways buy the hub spacers and run some junkyard toyota CVS. Then when you have time take a sami rear to build a steel front housing and use the sami third with the tracker gears. This opens up all kinds of locker/spool options and you have a locked ifs setup that shouldn't break with 32s for little money.

YotaAtieToo 03-04-2019 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44347042)
I have already beaten on the cheapo amazon cv shafts and they seem pretty solid.....But if doing the hagen mod anyways buy the hub spacers and run some junkyard toyota CVS. Then when you have time take a sami rear to build a steel front housing and use the sami third with the tracker gears. This opens up all kinds of locker/spool options and you have a locked ifs setup that shouldn't break with 32s for little money.

Well the junkyards around here are basically useless and any used Toyota part is way over priced. I see zuki cv's on Amazon for $50 and even found an open box one for $28. I still need to figure out a ~1/2" spacer for the driver side cv.

These rigs don't have steel center sections? I saw a steel center upgrade on lowrange that said it was out of a grand vitara? :confused:

2big bronco 03-05-2019 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44347080)
Well the junkyards around here are basically useless and any used Toyota part is way over priced. I see zuki cv's on Amazon for $50 and even found an open box one for $28. I still need to figure out a ~1/2" spacer for the driver side cv.

These rigs don't have steel center sections? I saw a steel center upgrade on lowrange that said it was out of a grand vitara? :confused:



No they are cast aluminum centers and huge piles. Grand vitara ones do exist but in my searches are hard to come by and you still end up with an aluminum third that wont take a conventional locker. I have seen several good writeups on building your own and it looks pretty straight forward.

YotaAtieToo 03-05-2019 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44347238)
No they are cast aluminum centers and huge piles. Grand vitara ones do exist but in my searches are hard to come by and you still end up with an aluminum third that wont take a conventional locker. I have seen several good writeups on building your own and it looks pretty straight forward.

From what I read 03+ grand vitara and xl7 should have steel housing and 3rd.

I ordered the Toyota cv kit...... This thing is starting to snowball :flipoff2: I may call around to wrecking yards for an xl7 diff, or just wait for it to blow.

What about using a sidekick rear axle as a donor for a front housing?

jr4x 03-05-2019 07:25 PM

I'm entertaining a few options for better gearing in mine. Thinking a 9" f/r so I can run 6.50:1 gears and get my hi range back. I would do a cheap home built front with ifs shafts to convert to Toyota cv's.

If I could find another set of 5.62 track kick gears I'd try them, but those have disappeared. Toyota 5.71's don't scare me with the no horse power but they aren't exactly as low as I'd like to go, and I have this thing about Toyota stuff.

The best samurai build I ever had, had a 16V swap, 4.16 t-case (1.509 hi range) and 4.30 diff gears. That put high range gearing at 6.48 running on 32's. It was just about perfect on and off road. 9"s have about any gear ratio you could conceive of. Still debating over cost versus time involved. I have the perfect disc braked 9" rear that would be a fairly easy swap. The front diff would take some effort. I don't know if I could pull off the Hagan mod with the calmini A arms, the poly bushings don't misalign quite like the rubber factory ones.

YotaAtieToo 03-05-2019 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44348560)
I'm entertaining a few options for better gearing in mine. Thinking a 9" f/r so I can run 6.50:1 gears and get my hi range back. I would do a cheap home built front with ifs shafts to convert to Toyota cv's.

If I could find another set of 5.62 track kick gears I'd try them, but those have disappeared. Toyota 5.71's don't scare me with the no horse power but they aren't exactly as low as I'd like to go, and I have this thing about Toyota stuff.

The best samurai build I ever had, had a 16V swap, 4.16 t-case (1.509 hi range) and 4.30 diff gears. That put high range gearing at 6.48 running on 32's. It was just about perfect on and off road. 9"s have about any gear ratio you could conceive of. Still debating over cost versus time involved. I have the perfect disc braked 9" rear that would be a fairly easy swap. The front diff would take some effort. I don't know if I could pull off the Hagan mod with the calmini A arms, the poly bushings don't misalign quite like the rubber factory ones.

9" centers are sweet for the gearing options, all the way down to ~7.50 hard to justify a custom 9" ifs chunk with 30s though. Not to mention that looking under there even a 9" would be hard to fit.

What's r&p do you have now?

Is anyone making a kick to kick tcase adapter? Or kick to Toyota? Having stock low back plus a low crawl would be perfect.

2big bronco 03-05-2019 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44348506)
From what I read 03+ grand vitara and xl7 should have steel housing and 3rd.

I ordered the Toyota cv kit...... This thing is starting to snowball :flipoff2: I may call around to wrecking yards for an xl7 diff, or just wait for it to blow.

What about using a sidekick rear axle as a donor for a front housing?


The sidekick rear is a 9" ring gear I belive but for some reason I recall 5hat tou need a 3" lift to clear it..... but that doesnt really make sence. I know calimini says you need a lift to clear the anvil center. Also you dont have an extra set of 5.13 gears to make one out of a rear from what I know of your junk pile

2big bronco 03-05-2019 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44348560)

If I could find another set of 5.62 track kick gears I'd try them, but those have disappeared. .

I dont recal the name but there is an Australian based aftermarket zuk shop that stocks 5.62s

YotaAtieToo 03-05-2019 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44348712)
I dont recal the name but there is an Australian based aftermarket zuk shop that stocks 5.62s

4xFour Art - Products - VITARA 5.72 RING & PINION GEARS - FRONT

?

paradisePWoffrd 03-06-2019 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44348664)
9" centers are sweet for the gearing options, all the way down to ~7.50 hard to justify a custom 9" ifs chunk with 30s though. Not to mention that looking under there even a 9" would be hard to fit.

What's r&p do you have now?

Is anyone making a kick to kick tcase adapter? Or kick to Toyota? Having stock low back plus a low crawl would be perfect.

There is a guy around building kick/d300 & kick/toy setups. I cant recall who it is though. I believe @untchabl is having one built currently.

Also, you should be able to use the 2.0l without the vss, but you might not have factory speedo anymore. There are plenty of these swaps in samurais, so they must be doing something.

86chevyjoe 03-06-2019 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44348664)
Is anyone making a kick to kick tcase adapter? Or kick to Toyota? Having stock low back plus a low crawl would be perfect.

keith makes trackick/toy doublers - also makes trackick/d300 doublers too. quite a few guys in WErock running the trackick/D300 with good results

had i kept my jeep i was going to do a trackick/toy doubler from keith

YotaAtieToo 03-06-2019 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paradisePWoffrd (Post 44349100)
There is a guy around building kick/d300 & kick/toy setups. I cant recall who it is though. I believe @untchabl is having one built currently.

Also, you should be able to use the 2.0l without the vss, but you might not have factory speedo anymore. There are plenty of these swaps in samurais, so they must be doing something.

Ya, I remember the thread, it would be cool if he could get a website or something more than what he's got going now.

Good point, I'm not worried about the speedo working at all. A friend of mine offered up his 4:1 Sami case if he can find a donor for 6.5 gears. If that happens, I may try to go that route. I think for now im just going to put it together with stock gears and see how the auto works with 1:1 and 1.8:1

2big bronco 03-06-2019 11:38 PM

Are you on Facebook at all or just your wife? Go sign up on suzukisamuraiowners2.0. There is a ton of good info. All of the people selling doubler kits are on there as well as a new guy selling assembled kick to samurai cases.

jr4x 03-07-2019 08:02 AM

I looked into buying set of the auzy gears and the import tax is about $1,000 bucks. So it's over 2,000 bucks to get two r&p's into the country. If it was the exact ratio I thought I needed I would do it. Rockrat4x4 was trying to get to be a dealer and I committed to buying 2 vehicles worth, but he need 100 sets sold to make it work. There just wasn't enough people wanting them.

I enjoy doing custom stuff. I would like to have mine in the 4 to 5 inch lift range and on 32's or 33's with no body lift. The rear would fit pretty good at that height. I think I'd have to cut and rebuild the front lower cross member to get a 9" up front. But I'd like to move the front end forward any way. This is all musings right now, I'm trying to sell my house and move so I gotta wait a bit to get back on it. I finished off destroying my big jeep at KOH so the tracker is my only entertainment left for the year.

Danger--Ranger 03-07-2019 02:22 PM

nice, il be watching this build, going to be doing a similar one this summer

YotaAtieToo 03-07-2019 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44351002)
I looked into buying set of the auzy gears and the import tax is about $1,000 bucks. So it's over 2,000 bucks to get two r&p's into the country. If it was the exact ratio I thought I needed I would do it. Rockrat4x4 was trying to get to be a dealer and I committed to buying 2 vehicles worth, but he need 100 sets sold to make it work. There just wasn't enough people wanting them.

I enjoy doing custom stuff. I would like to have mine in the 4 to 5 inch lift range and on 32's or 33's with no body lift. The rear would fit pretty good at that height. I think I'd have to cut and rebuild the front lower cross member to get a 9" up front. But I'd like to move the front end forward any way. This is all musings right now, I'm trying to sell my house and move so I gotta wait a bit to get back on it. I finished off destroying my big jeep at KOH so the tracker is my only entertainment left for the year.

Gotcha, I mean the 9" stuff isn't really that expensive, especially since you wouldn't need anything to fancy, factory housing and 3rds would probably be bulletproof. Heck, a lot of those 6.xx gears are cheap since they are popular in circle track cars. 9" just has that stigma of being $$$ because you can spend a ton on it.

untchabl 03-07-2019 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paradisePWoffrd (Post 44349100)
There is a guy around building kick/d300 & kick/toy setups. I cant recall who it is though. I believe @untchabl is having one built currently.

Also, you should be able to use the 2.0l without the vss, but you might not have factory speedo anymore. There are plenty of these swaps in samurais, so they must be doing something.

Keith is building me a Tracker/Toyota setup for my Sami buggy.

2big bronco 03-10-2019 04:10 PM

Random tidbit that may save you some headache later on...
Not sure what year your 2dr is but you cant gear an 89 or older sidekick case. Everything appears the same but the case is just a tiny bit thinner in the area you have to grind out to accept the larger gears.

YotaAtieToo 03-10-2019 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44355408)
Random tidbit that may save you some headache later on...
Not sure what year your 2dr is but you cant gear an 89 or older sidekick case. Everything appears the same but the case is just a tiny bit thinner in the area you have to grind out to accept the larger gears.

Good to know

I'm planning on using the 4 door case behind the 3spd. Brent said it will bolt up, but has different rear out put splines and the electronic speed sensor.

Would you want to part with your 2 door? Or at least the 3spd? Wilson is still kind of looking for one for his Sami.

2big bronco 03-10-2019 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44355434)
Good to know

I'm planning on using the 4 door case behind the 3spd. Brent said it will bolt up, but has different rear out put splines and the electronic speed sensor.

Would you want to part with your 2 door? Or at least the 3spd? Wilson is still kind of looking for one for his Sami.



I'm saving it for the 3spd and power steering for my little samurai

YotaAtieToo 03-10-2019 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44355702)
I'm saving it for the 3spd and power steering for my little samurai

I thought you were dropping the 2.0 in? Would it be easier to just use the 4spd with the 2.0 then?

You can have all the power steering stuff from my 2 door if you don't want to tear that one apart.

2big bronco 03-12-2019 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44355754)
I thought you were dropping the 2.0 in? Would it be easier to just use the 4spd with the 2.0 then?

You can have all the power steering stuff from my 2 door if you don't want to tear that one apart.


Really no idea right now, haha. But orrigonal plan was 3spd behind the 1.6 that's already in the sami but who knows. I have a house to build

YotaAtieToo 03-13-2019 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44358210)
Really no idea right now, haha. But orrigonal plan was 3spd behind the 1.6 that's already in the sami but who knows. I have a house to build

Speaking of that, let me know if you need that ecu. I can throw it in a flat rate box.

2big bronco 03-14-2019 04:12 PM

If your not building the 2dr I'd like it back.

On another note it would be cool if you did a good writeup with pictures and details on the hagen mod and getting the CVS to work. I dont think all of the info exists in 1 easy to follow spot.

paradisePWoffrd 03-15-2019 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44361440)
If your not building the 2dr I'd like it back.

On another note it would be cool if you did a good writeup with pictures and details on the hagen mod and getting the CVS to work. I dont think all of the info exists in 1 easy to follow spot.

X2.

Some of it did on izook, but that site is likely dead now.


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

YotaAtieToo 03-15-2019 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44361440)
If your not building the 2dr I'd like it back.

On another note it would be cool if you did a good writeup with pictures and details on the hagen mod and getting the CVS to work. I dont think all of the info exists in 1 easy to follow spot.

OK, just text me your address and I'll get it in a flat rate box.

The kit showed up yesterday, machine work looks very nice, packaged nice, looked very complete and even had easy to follow instructions.

I actually got 2 days off this week so I'm hoping to get a bunch done at least one day.

I did also find a local source for good used cv's, I guess I need the hubs also, for some reason I thought the suzuki hubs were the same splines.

2big bronco 03-15-2019 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44363156)
OK, just text me your address and I'll get it in a flat rate box.

The kit showed up yesterday, machine work looks very nice, packaged nice, looked very complete and even had easy to follow instructions.

I actually got 2 days off this week so I'm hoping to get a bunch done at least one day.

I did also find a local source for good used cv's, I guess I need the hubs also, for some reason I thought the suzuki hubs were the same splines.


Yes, stock hubs should work

YotaAtieToo 03-15-2019 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44363392)
Yes, stock hubs should work

That's what I thought, but the directions say that I need Toyota locking hubs.

YotaAtieToo 03-16-2019 10:54 PM

Toyota cv's do NOT fit the suzuki hubs. The Toyota stub is just slightly bigger Iirc toy is 27 spline and zuk is 26. The hub bodies and dials are the same though.

Edit: I realized that I checked the Toyota cv's to the 2 door hubs, but not the flanges on the 4 door. Maybe they are bigger?

I picked up 2 good used factory cv's, 1 aftermarket one that looked like it had never been installed, 2 Toyota hubs and 1 lock out for $90, so that was cool.

Got the trans and tcase in. It's funny how you can bolt a 1990 auto trans between the 1999 engine and tcase that was a 5 spd, with only a slight mod and spacer between the flex plate and converter.

The 3 spd auto is about 1.5" shorter than the 5spd. Luckily the front drive line from the 2 door will work. For the rear I'll probably just order a spacer. I know they are kinda ghetto, but lots of people use them without issue. I would just have the driveline retubed, but since the tubing has a bell on each end. The OD of the ends is only like 1.5" :rolleyes:

I think I might try to button up the trans swap and put everything together to make sure that it drives OK before doing all the front end work.

jr4x 03-17-2019 08:36 AM

With the correct bolts I've never had an issue with the spacers at all. Pretty sure I've ran spacers on all my zuki rides. The front tube has a cardboard core for some reason and it couldn't be easily retubed when I put the Sammy t-case in my 2 door, so I just ran a spacer on each end to make up the difference and it works just fine.

YotaAtieToo 03-17-2019 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44364334)
With the correct bolts I've never had an issue with the spacers at all. Pretty sure I've ran spacers on all my zuki rides. The front tube has a cardboard core for some reason and it couldn't be easily retubed when I put the Sammy t-case in my 2 door, so I just ran a spacer on each end to make up the difference and it works just fine.

Front Sami drive shaft? Track kicks are slip yoke front and rear :confused:

jr4x 03-17-2019 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44364372)
Front Sami drive shaft? Track kicks are slip yoke front and rear :confused:

Yes, I had to build a hybrid. The samurai shaft is to short on its own, and obviously the tracker shaft won't work. So I had the slip spline from the samurai front shaft machined down to fit the ID of the tracker tube. Even leaving the tracker tube full length It ended up an inch short. So I used two 1/2" spacers, one on each end to make it have enough spline engagement to make me feel warm and fuzzy.

YotaAtieToo 03-17-2019 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44364410)
Yes, I had to build a hybrid. The samurai shaft is to short on its own, and obviously the tracker shaft won't work. So I had the slip spline from the samurai front shaft machined down to fit the ID of the tracker tube. Even leaving the tracker tube full length It ended up an inch short. So I used two 1/2" spacers, one on each end to make it have enough spline engagement to make me feel warm and fuzzy.

Gotcha.

Everything I see says either 86-89 or 90-95. I assume that my 99 is the same as the 90-95?

Edit: my 90 2 door has the same driveline pattern as the 99 4door. I'm not sure why they are designating 90-95 instead of 90+

chevy1925 03-17-2019 11:19 AM

Some kind of wannabe sxs build (side by sidekick?)
 
The long side inner axle will be your next weak point with the Toyota cv mod. Cycle that suspension after the Hagen mod, some guys still don’t have enough room on the pass side due to how deep they make the stub adapter.

Otherwise I love the kit.

Also, 03+ is not a sure thing to for a steel front diff. Manual gv or xl7 will have a steel front diff. Some xl7 04-05 have steel front diffs but gv auto 03+ won’t have them. If they do, it was swapped in. I scowered alot of junk yards following the 03+ info and it never added up.

YotaAtieToo 03-17-2019 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy1925 (Post 44364508)
The long side inner axle will be your next weak point with the Toyota cv mod. Cycle that suspension after the Hagen mod, some guys still don’t have enough room on the pass side due to how deep they make the stub adapter.

Otherwise I love the kit.

Also, 03+ is not a sure thing to for a steel front diff. Manual gv or xl7 will have a steel front diff. Some xl7 04-05 have steel front diffs but gv auto 03+ won’t have them. If they do, it was swapped in. I scowered alot of junk yards following the 03+ info and it never added up.

Good to know, I'm not planning on full on wheelin this thing, but who knows. I just liked the Toyota cv idea since I'll be doing the hegan mod anyway.

Funny you mention the front diff, I was under there today, spinning the front driveshaft and noticed that the tires weren't spinning. Spin the tires and they seem totally disconnected from each other and the driveshaft, yet no noise or drag :confused: I'm 99% sure that the 4wd worked fine the little I drove it around. Do these have some kind of disconnect that I can't see?

So if I call wrecking yards what do I ask for? Did the make the housing and 3rd steel at the same time or do some have one and not the other?

YotaAtieToo 03-17-2019 05:29 PM

Modified the crossmember for the ~1.5" shorter trans.

https://i.postimg.cc/DyjNCKY6/20190317-121041.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/pTJGKNFD/20190317-121052.jpg

The auto shifter almost bolted up to the 5spd boot holes. The holes were the same width but the auto shifter was a little longer, I just notched the front of the hole about 3/4" and used some extra factory self trappers. Tcase shift boot worked fine, it gets a little close to the auto shifter in 2 high but clears.

https://i.postimg.cc/MGbbF7pw/20190317-130533.jpg

2big bronco 03-17-2019 06:17 PM

I'm posative the 4wd worked in that thing. Does that one have the fancy auto locking hubs? I dont remember.

YotaAtieToo 03-17-2019 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44364782)
I'm posative the 4wd worked in that thing. Does that one have the fancy auto locking hubs? I dont remember.

No, flanges, and the cv's spin with the tires like they should. It's like the pinion is sheared perfectly or something :laughing:

2big bronco 03-17-2019 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44364848)
It's like the pinion is sheared perfectly or something :laughing:

Hope not. Haha. For your sake :laughing: :flipoff2:

chevy1925 03-17-2019 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44364718)
Good to know, I'm not planning on full on wheelin this thing, but who knows. I just liked the Toyota cv idea since I'll be doing the hegan mod anyway.



Funny you mention the front diff, I was under there today, spinning the front driveshaft and noticed that the tires weren't spinning. Spin the tires and they seem totally disconnected from each other and the driveshaft, yet no noise or drag :confused: I'm 99% sure that the 4wd worked fine the little I drove it around. Do these have some kind of disconnect that I can't see?



So if I call wrecking yards what do I ask for? Did the make the housing and 3rd steel at the same time or do some have one and not the other?



Oh your building the 2nd gen now? I thought you were building the first gen till I saw your latest posts.

The Toyota cv conversion will not work without massive adjustments. The diff mounts hit horribly even if you do just the driver side stub shaft mod (the cv’s from a Toyota hit even worse). Also the Hagen mod will make things worse trying to make the Toyota cv’s fit. You will have to shift the diff to the driver side a bit as it is not centered after you put the stub shaft in. The driver side cv will not be long enough and the pass side will be too long. Also the bushings that come with the kit to hold the cv in the back of the spindle will not fit as Suzuki changed the bore diameter so you will have to make new bushings. Basically, you have a ton of work to make the toy cv’s fit. Been there done that on my second gen.

As for calling the yards, won’t do you any good unless you get someone who actually has some smarts. I ordered 2 diffs off eBay because I was told “they are steel”. Showed up at my shop and they didn’t pass the magnet test. Back they went. These were actual junk yards selling on eBay. At that point I just went to the u pick its but I actually found my current one on here. I did pull a second one from a friend in the JY not long after.

The front diff in these is air actuated. There is a bladder that inflates and engages the carrier to the ring gear. So turning one tire only turns one tire till you fill the bladder with air. You can not put a locker in one and the bladder is known to leak. You are better off swapping the carrier to a first gen or samurai (samurai will need machining). Then you can run a locker in there.

YotaAtieToo 03-17-2019 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy1925 (Post 44364898)
Oh your building the 2nd gen now? I thought you were building the first gen till I saw your latest posts.

The Toyota cv conversion will not work without massive adjustments. The diff mounts hit horribly even if you do just the driver side stub shaft mod (the cv’s from a Toyota hit even worse). Also the Hagen mod will make things worse trying to make the Toyota cv’s fit. You will have to shift the diff to the driver side a bit as it is not centered after you put the stub shaft in. The driver side cv will not be long enough and the pass side will be too long. Also the bushings that come with the kit to hold the cv in the back of the spindle will not fit as Suzuki changed the bore diameter so you will have to make new bushings. Basically, you have a ton of work to make the toy cv’s fit. Been there done that on my second gen.

As for calling the yards, won’t do you any good unless you get someone who actually has some smarts. I ordered 2 diffs off eBay because I was told “they are steel”. Showed up at my shop and they didn’t pass the magnet test. Back they went. These were actual junk yards selling on eBay. At that point I just went to the u pick its but I actually found my current one on here. I did pull a second one from a friend in the JY not long after.

The front diff in these is air actuated. There is a bladder that inflates and engages the carrier to the ring gear. So turning one tire only turns one tire till you fill the bladder with air. You can not put a locker in one and the bladder is known to leak. You are better off swapping the carrier to a first gen or samurai (samurai will need machining). Then you can run a locker in there.

:(

Well, thanks for the heads up. Guess I got $800-900 worth of useless parts in the garage. This stupid project has just gotten out of hand. I really wish I would have just gotten a cheap beater and thrown some tires and a rear spool on it.

chevy1925 03-17-2019 09:37 PM

Sorry, didn’t mean to be a Debbie downer. Your welcome to glance through my thread (the grand tracker) and see what I’ve been doing to make all that work. 2nd gens are a bitch since no one really makes shit for them

YotaAtieToo 03-17-2019 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy1925 (Post 44364920)
Sorry, didn’t mean to be a Debbie downer. Your welcome to glance through my thread (the grand tracker) and see what I’ve been doing to make all that work. 2nd gens are a bitch since no one really makes shit for them

No worries, I'd rather know now than when I'm trying to put it together.

And honestly I'm a little pissed that the $500 locker and $350 Toyota cv kit I bought for this rig didn't specify that they wouldn't work with my rig.

chevy1925 03-17-2019 10:29 PM

Some kind of wannabe sxs build (side by sidekick?)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44364932)
No worries, I'd rather know now than when I'm trying to put it together.

And honestly I'm a little pissed that the $500 locker and $350 Toyota cv kit I bought for this rig didn't specify that they wouldn't work with my rig.



I was the first one to try the kit from Ben (owner for zukiparts) on a second gen. I told him about a year ago they are no where near a bolt on kit. Problem is a Vitara over seas is like our sidekick/trackers from 89-95. So not the same but hard to put on the site what it will and won’t fit unless you know what to look for

If it helps, I may have a guy out here that would take that cv kit. Help lesson this blow ya had. PM if you want and I’ll see if I can get you two in touch

YotaAtieToo 03-17-2019 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy1925 (Post 44364946)
I was the first one to try the kit from Ben (owner for zukiparts). I told him about a year ago they are no where near a bolt on kit. Problem is a Vitara over seas is like our sidekick/trackers from 89-95. So not the same.

If it helps, I may have a guy out here that would take that cv kit. Help lesson this blow ya had. PM if you want and I’ll see if I can get you two in touch

Ya, I guess I saw vitara and thought it would be good to go. So much stuff interchanges that you would think it would work. Yet, obviously, many things are different.

The locker I have is from trail tough, it looks like the modified a Sami lockrite to fit in a tracker carrier. It had a core charge and came already in a carrier. Will this swap out the air actuated deal? Or do I need an entire different 3rd?

OK, Ill keep it in mind, thank you. I do have 2 good used factory cv's, 1 new cv, 2 complete hubs and 1 drive flange to go with the kit.

I really wanted a smaller 2 door or possibly a Sami. So I may hang onto it incase I decide to drop this drive train into an older rig.

chevy1925 03-17-2019 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44364950)
Ya, I guess I saw vitara and thought it would be good to go. So much stuff interchanges that you would think it would work. Yet, obviously, many things are different.

The locker I have is from trail tough, it looks like the modified a Sami lockrite to fit in a tracker carrier. It had a core charge and came already in a carrier. Will this swap out the air actuated deal? Or do I need an entire different 3rd?

OK, Ill keep it in mind, thank you. I do have 2 good used factory cv's, 1 new cv, 2 complete hubs and 1 drive flange to go with the kit.

I really wanted a smaller 2 door or possibly a Sami. So I may hang onto it incase I decide to drop this drive train into an older rig.



If you have a carrier and locker ready, it will all drop right in. Only the carrier is different in there so you are still golden there. Just plug the hole for the air line on the outside of the diff with a vac plug or something once done.

He would take it all and says he’s game. Just let me know! First gen would be much easier to swap in lol.

Really the only swappable parts are the big things like engine, trans, tcase (up to 03 when trans output changed), thirds/gears, front diff and possibly driveshaft parts. Front arms, struts, cv axles, knuckles, spindles, rear links, springs, steering, and lots of other stuff are all different. I’ve basically gone all custom at this point cause there wasn’t enough upgraded parts for me and RCV didn’t want to work with me on upgraded axle shafts or cv axles

YotaAtieToo 03-18-2019 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy1925 (Post 44364956)
If you have a carrier and locker ready, it will all drop right in. Only the carrier is different in there so you are still golden there. Just plug the hole for the air line on the outside of the diff with a vac plug or something once done.

He would take it all and says he’s game. Just let me know! First gen would be much easier to swap in lol.

Really the only swappable parts are the big things like engine, trans, tcase (up to 03 when trans output changed), thirds/gears, front diff and possibly driveshaft parts. Front arms, struts, cv axles, knuckles, spindles, rear links, springs, steering, and lots of other stuff are all different. I’ve basically gone all custom at this point cause there wasn’t enough upgraded parts for me and RCV didn’t want to work with me on upgraded axle shafts or cv axles

OK, let me think about it for a bit. I'm not sure how else I will be able to make these 32s fit with out pushing the tire forward.

Here's an idea, why don't you just sell me all of your diff mounts? :D

chevy1925 03-18-2019 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44365138)
OK, let me think about it for a bit. I'm not sure how else I will be able to make these 32s fit with out pushing the tire forward.

Here's an idea, why don't you just sell me all of your diff mounts? :D

:laughing: sadly they have been spoken for already along with my front diff. dont forget the custom bushings :D.

You can always do the frame chop. that lets you gain lift you want as well as firewall clearance. how i did mine. keeps CV angles nice, lots of tire clearance, and gains lift. you will have to redo engine mounts (easy as the brackets unbolt from the frame, just weld them where you want them after moving the frame), steering (they use a jacked up retarded 2 joint setup. i clearanced mine for more angle and moved one way up the steering shaft), radiator mount (just cut and reweld), brake lines, and front driveshaft.

otherwise you can see if Alter Ego will sell you just the front arms for a GV. they move the tire forward 1.5" iirc

YotaAtieToo 03-18-2019 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy1925 (Post 44365242)
:laughing: sadly they have been spoken for already along with my front diff. dont forget the custom bushings :D.

You can always do the frame chop. that lets you gain lift you want as well as firewall clearance. how i did mine. keeps CV angles nice, lots of tire clearance, and gains lift. you will have to redo engine mounts (easy as the brackets unbolt from the frame, just weld them where you want them after moving the frame), steering (they use a jacked up retarded 2 joint setup. i clearanced mine for more angle and moved one way up the steering shaft), radiator mount (just cut and reweld), brake lines, and front driveshaft.

otherwise you can see if Alter Ego will sell you just the front arms for a GV. they move the tire forward 1.5" iirc

No worries, I figured, it was worth a shot though :flipoff2:

I'm not afraid of custom fab like you did, my 4runner has custom built frame sections at both ends. It's just not the what I had in mind for this thing.

Altered ego will sell me the arms, for around $600.

I may just tackle the modded diff mounts like you did, it doesn't look that bad. I don't want to be popping the Honda civic cv shafts every time out.

chevy1925 03-18-2019 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44365284)
No worries, I figured, it was worth a shot though :flipoff2:

I'm not afraid of custom fab like you did, my 4runner has custom built frame sections at both ends. It's just not the what I had in mind for this thing.

Altered ego will sell me the arms, for around $600.

I may just tackle the modded diff mounts like you did, it doesn't look that bad. I don't want to be popping the Honda civic cv shafts every time out.

thats not bad. it will just come down to cost vs your time. if i were you, i would do it. shift the diff to the driverside about 1/2" to 3/4" and you MIGHT get away without needing to run a spacer. if not, both sides might need a little 1/4" one but that again will need to be made/machined. i moved mine too much so the driver side so the pass side got the whole spacer. i blew way too many CV axles. the kit was sitting around so i made it work till i got the new front end done. Lets me keep wheelin.

i hacked up the stock diff mounts and plated the hell out of them. i dont know how long they will last since they are cast. attempted to make first gen mounts work but it would have been more work.

on second thought. if you do the hagen mod, the pass side will bolt in without issue and you may be able to just use a t100 axle on the driver side, worse case just add a spacer to make the difference for the stock pick up axle. either way, diff mounts need a major rework.

jr4x 03-18-2019 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44365284)
I don't want to be popping the Honda civic cv shafts every time out.


With the 32's I guess you might have a legitimate concern. I haven't lost one yet knock on wood.

Quick back story. In 2014 when I built the green 2wd one, I had the front end from a rolled 95 4 door which are 22 spline in the diff. So I bought my TT locker for that. My CV boots were torn and joints sloppy so I bought two new shafts from rock auto and sent the others back as cores. I put drive flanges like off your vitara on it and beat the piss out of it till I gave up on the 8V engine.

Then in 2016 when I built the 4 door to replace it, I swapped those same shafts and locked front diff into it. I'm really hard on this thing and the entire time I've been bashing on it I've worried about 3 things. The aluminum diff breaking, CV shafts breaking, or both. I've crawled it in rocks and had it on the rev limiter in sand and mud with those aggressive tires. I do have to keep a constant eye on the bolts that hold the front diff to the drop brackets. But it's still the 22 spline stuff from the older car. They might do better than you think.

Lastly, isn't the gen 1 diff narrower than the gen 2?

chevy1925 03-18-2019 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44365344)
With the 32's I guess you might have a legitimate concern. I haven't lost one yet knock on wood.

Quick back story. In 2014 when I built the green 2wd one, I had the front end from a rolled 95 4 door which are 22 spline in the diff. So I bought my TT locker for that. My CV boots were torn and joints sloppy so I bought two new shafts from rock auto and sent the others back as cores. I put drive flanges like off your vitara on it and beat the piss out of it till I gave up on the 8V engine.

Then in 2016 when I built the 4 door to replace it, I swapped those same shafts and locked front diff into it. I'm really hard on this thing and the entire time I've been bashing on it I've worried about 3 things. The aluminum diff breaking, CV shafts breaking, or both. I've crawled it in rocks and had it on the rev limiter in sand and mud with those aggressive tires. I do have to keep a constant eye on the bolts that hold the front diff to the drop brackets. But it's still the 22 spline stuff from the older car. They might do better than you think.

Lastly, isn't the gen 1 diff narrower than the gen 2?

the spline count isnt the weak point, its the overall cv size thats weak. the stock CV's are the strongest but you crank teh wheel too hard and put the tire in a bind and BOOM, bye bye outer cv. ive blown up 4 stock CV's thus far. 2nd gens aint light though and 33x12.50's seem to scare CV's into breaking if you look at them wrong. go to a 31 and it seems to change but who the hell goes down in tire size! the sad part is ive seen guys wheel the piss out of stock CV's locked up front or not and they never break. i broke one just turning on rock in 4wd in moab. too much grip i guess.

no, 1st and 2nd gen diffs are the same. that is a fact i know 100%. the only thing different is the ring gear carrier and the spline count for CV's but that again varies on internal spider gears. locker and or spider gear change can fix that.

i honestly thought first gen control arms were the same between first and second gen rigs till a few weeks ago when my buddy tried to put first gen calimini arms on his second gen and they actually would move the tire back toward the firewall and the frame mounts are a hair narrower. i had a pair of new stamped steel first gen arms i planned to make for my LT kit but i bought the calimini arms from my buddy since they were already wider and heavier duty. Damn suzuki changing shit up.


Oh yotaatietoo, one other thing i though of, you may see if first gen spindles fit on second gen knuckles. if they do, no need for the custom bushing. i "think" they are the same but ive not tried bolting a pair up. i know the knuckles are for sure different so you cant swap the whole thing over.

YotaAtieToo 03-18-2019 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy1925 (Post 44365320)
thats not bad. it will just come down to cost vs your time. if i were you, i would do it. shift the diff to the driverside about 1/2" to 3/4" and you MIGHT get away without needing to run a spacer. if not, both sides might need a little 1/4" one but that again will need to be made/machined. i moved mine too much so the driver side so the pass side got the whole spacer. i blew way too many CV axles. the kit was sitting around so i made it work till i got the new front end done. Lets me keep wheelin.

i hacked up the stock diff mounts and plated the hell out of them. i dont know how long they will last since they are cast. attempted to make first gen mounts work but it would have been more work.

on second thought. if you do the hagen mod, the pass side will bolt in without issue and you may be able to just use a t100 axle on the driver side, worse case just add a spacer to make the difference for the stock pick up axle. either way, diff mounts need a major rework.

My plan was to move the diff like you did but not make the pass stub as short.

T100 is 3" longer I believe

Good idea on the spindles, I was thinking something along those lines.

YotaAtieToo 03-18-2019 01:36 PM

What about just building new arms with a mini uniball or 7/8 hiem to replace the lower bj? Would be pretty straightforward with a fixture really.

chevy1925 03-18-2019 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44365454)
My plan was to move the diff like you did but not make the pass stub as short.

T100 is 3" longer I believe

Good idea on the spindles, I was thinking something along those lines.

yup, 3" longer

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44365576)
What about just building new arms with a mini uniball or 7/8 hiem to replace the lower bj? Would be pretty straightforward with a fixture really.

maybe, if you use a allen bolt that is tapered to be like a misalignment spacer to rotate into the ball but with toy CV's, you have very little room as is with the stock ball joint in there. i dont like heims that far out, puts a shit ton of strain on the weakest part of the heim but if a mini uni-ball fits....

or just do like i am and use a first gen bolt on ball joint. be real simple then

YotaAtieToo 03-18-2019 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy1925 (Post 44365642)
yup, 3" longer



maybe, if you use a allen bolt that is tapered to be like a misalignment spacer to rotate into the ball but with toy CV's, you have very little room as is with the stock ball joint in there. i dont like heims that far out, puts a shit ton of strain on the weakest part of the heim but if a mini uni-ball fits....

or just do like i am and use a first gen bolt on ball joint. be real simple then

That would be the easy solution.

86chevyjoe 03-18-2019 11:00 PM

I vote samurai front end or CJ Dana 30, 3 link, air shocks and sway bar and go wheel :flipoff2::flipoff2:

Enough of this weak zuk ifs stuff that’s turning into frankenzuk :laughing::flipoff2:

YotaAtieToo 03-19-2019 12:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86chevyjoe (Post 44366194)
I vote samurai front end or CJ Dana 30, 3 link, air shocks and sway bar and go wheel :flipoff2::flipoff2:

Enough of this weak zuk ifs stuff that’s turning into frankenzuk :laughing::flipoff2:

Says the guy with a :rainbow: rzr :rainbow:

chevy1925 03-19-2019 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86chevyjoe (Post 44366194)
I vote samurai front end or CJ Dana 30, 3 link, air shocks and sway bar and go wheel :flipoff2::flipoff2:

Enough of this weak zuk ifs stuff that’s turning into frankenzuk :laughing::flipoff2:

:barf:

2big bronco 03-19-2019 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86chevyjoe (Post 44366194)
I vote samurai front end or CJ Dana 30, 3 link, air shocks and sway bar and go wheel :flipoff2::flipoff2:

Enough of this weak zuk ifs stuff that’s turning into frankenzuk :laughing::flipoff2:


Yeah, let's take the only 2 axles you could possibly think of weaker then a suzuki ifs and sugest the op do a ton of work to put them in. Let's also disregard the fact that the sami front is almost 6" narrower then his vitara track width.

YotaAtieToo 03-19-2019 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy1925 (Post 44366448)
:barf:

I think the Sami axle is too small for these 2nd gen 4 doors, even with just 32s. CJ D30 wouldn't be horrible if just sticking with 32s except they are stupid narrow (50" wms?) I would probably just go straight to Toyota mini truck axles.

Or I think my 60s with 6.17s from my 4runner may be salvageable :flipoff2:

chevy1925 03-19-2019 12:03 PM

Lmao! i constantly stare at a 90% ready to go 89 ford d60 sitting on the shelf at work.... just cant bring myself to that heavy ass axle lol.

the stock rear axle on a second gen is 60" wide wms to wms. i ran 1.5" wheel spacers so front tires would clear the struts, that put the front end at 64" wms to wms and rear was 63". im now on a 2001 f150 full size 8.8 rear axle at 65" and no spacers in the rear and imho, its not as bad as i was thinking. and explorer 8.8 is 59" so would still need spacers to even match the stock zuk axle. i think the 95 and older full size 8.8 are narrower so you could get something even closer. i wanted the width for the LT front end im going to

front needs to be in the 61-62" range to keep it close to stock and under the fenders. IIRC there was a jeep d44 front that was real damn close to that. might have been the wagoneer.

honestly id just go full size axles and run shallow off set wheels. hubs will stick out some but not terrible. you get the best scrub radius and on/off road driving then too.

YotaAtieToo 03-19-2019 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy1925 (Post 44366808)
Lmao! i constantly stare at a 90% ready to go 89 ford d60 sitting on the shelf at work.... just cant bring myself to that heavy ass axle lol.

the stock rear axle on a second gen is 60" wide wms to wms. i ran 1.5" wheel spacers so front tires would clear the struts, that put the front end at 64" wms to wms and rear was 63". im now on a 2001 f150 full size 8.8 rear axle at 65" and no spacers in the rear and imho, its not as bad as i was thinking. and explorer 8.8 is 59" so would still need spacers to even match the stock zuk axle. i think the 95 and older full size 8.8 are narrower so you could get something even closer. i wanted the width for the LT front end im going to

front needs to be in the 61-62" range to keep it close to stock and under the fenders. IIRC there was a jeep d44 front that was real damn close to that. might have been the wagoneer.

honestly id just go full size axles and run shallow off set wheels. hubs will stick out some but not terrible. you get the best scrub radius and on/off road driving then too.

Dang, I didn't realize they were 60" Wide, that's 2" wider than an ifs Toyota and 5" wider than a stock straight axle.

An Fj80 front axle is 63.5" and is a perfect width for 37s, I ran an ifs rear with 2" spacers and an Fj80 front on my old Sami and 4runner before the 60s. The width is great.

A lightweight rig with bulletproof axles works really well around here on serious crawling trails. Those axles with some 39" stickies under this rig would be a ton of fun.

2big bronco 03-19-2019 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44367008)
Dang, I didn't realize they were 60" Wide, that's 2" wider than an ifs Toyota and 5" wider than a stock straight axle.

An Fj80 front axle is 63.5" and is a perfect width for 37s, I ran an ifs rear with 2" spacers and an Fj80 front on my old Sami and 4runner before the 60s. The width is great.

A lightweight rig with bulletproof axles works really well around here on serious crawling trails. Those axles with some 39" stickies under this rig would be a ton of fun.


Stay on track and build your ifs vitaratracker so I can copy all of your hard work figuring it out. Or just pay you to do the same to mine since I'm lazy.

YotaAtieToo 03-19-2019 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44367082)
Stay on track and build your ifs vitaratracker so I can copy all of your hard work figuring it out. Or just pay you to do the same to mine since I'm lazy.

Maybe I'll just sell it back to you when I'm done :laughing:

86chevyjoe 03-19-2019 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44366244)
Says the guy with a :rainbow: rzr :rainbow:

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44366778)
I think the Sami axle is too small for these 2nd gen 4 doors, even with just 32s. CJ D30 wouldn't be horrible if just sticking with 32s except they are stupid narrow (50" wms?) I would probably just go straight to Toyota mini truck axles.

Or I think my 60s with 6.17s from my 4runner may be salvageable :flipoff2:

Say what you want, the rzr keeps up with the best of them while I build my next rig :flipoff2:

CJ widetrack is same width as trackick rear - those frames are almost perfect for link suspension once you get all the brackets off :D

YotaAtieToo 03-19-2019 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86chevyjoe (Post 44367372)
Say what you want, the rzr keeps up with the best of them while I build my next rig :flipoff2:

CJ widetrack is same width as trackick rear - those frames are almost perfect for link suspension once you get all the brackets off :D

Like I said, it's already snowballed way more than intended. Solid axle and links are not on the list at all.

chevy1925 03-19-2019 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86chevyjoe (Post 44367372)
Say what you want, the rzr keeps up with the best of them while I build my next rig :flipoff2:



CJ widetrack is same width as trackick rear - those frames are almost perfect for link suspension once you get all the brackets off :D



The cj wide track is not the same width as his current rear axle. Wide tracks are 56” wide. His rear is 60” as stated before

YotaAtieToo 03-19-2019 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy1925 (Post 44367538)
The cj wide track is not the same width as his current rear axle. Wide tracks are 56” wide. His rear is 60” as stated before

Are you positive they are 60"? Because I have a 3rd gen 4runner that is 60" wms and it looks huge compared to the zuk, both use deep back spaced wheels.

I guess I'll measure mine to be sure. :flipoff2:

2big bronco 03-20-2019 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44367220)
Maybe I'll just sell it back to you when I'm done :laughing:

If you get it locked front and rear on 32s with a steel diff and toyota CV shafts I'll have a hard time not buying it from you. Dont forget to fear the t-case for me

chevy1925 03-20-2019 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44367572)
Are you positive they are 60"? Because I have a 3rd gen 4runner that is 60" wms and it looks huge compared to the zuk, both use deep back spaced wheels.

I guess I'll measure mine to be sure. :flipoff2:

100%. ive measured my old axle many time when i was setting up my suspension program to dial in the link and shock placement. stock axle is 60" on 99-05 rear axles.

YotaAtieToo 03-20-2019 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44367868)
If you get it locked front and rear on 32s with a steel diff and toyota CV shafts I'll have a hard time not buying it from you. Dont forget to fear the t-case for me

We'll have to see, this thing would be a blast at Hollister hills

2big bronco 03-20-2019 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44367896)
We'll have to see, this thing would be a blast at Hollister hills

20 min from my house. I know every square inch of that place including some "hidden" spots/trails. Finish it and come down

YotaAtieToo 03-20-2019 02:12 PM

Does anyone know what triggers the front diff to engage? Is it the 4wd light or a vaccum line? I can't for the life of me find the wire that went to the 4wd sensor and there is a vaccum line looking thing that came out with the trans and tcase. It may also be the breather, not sure.

I would like to drive it around before I tear the front end apart as it sits right now I'm going to install the mini spool and coil spacers, then I'm just waiting for the driveline spacer, which should be here today.

chevy1925 03-20-2019 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44368394)
Does anyone know what triggers the front diff to engage? Is it the 4wd light or a vaccum line? I can't for the life of me find the wire that went to the 4wd sensor and there is a vaccum line looking thing that came out with the trans and tcase. It may also be the breather, not sure.

I would like to drive it around before I tear the front end apart as it sits right now I'm going to install the mini spool and coil spacers, then I'm just waiting for the driveline spacer, which should be here today.

4wd trigger on the t-case does it. the rubber line is just a breather. sensor triggers the ecm, ecm triggers 4wd light and air pump which engages the front diff carrier.

if you pull the air pump connection, 4wd will not illuminate. you have to jump 2 wires at the plug to make the light come on (forget what 2). obviously if you unplug it and you are still running the factory carrier, it wont engage either.

YotaAtieToo 03-20-2019 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy1925 (Post 44368442)
4wd trigger on the t-case does it. the rubber line is just a breather. sensor triggers the ecm, ecm triggers 4wd light and air pump which engages the front diff carrier.

if you pull the air pump connection, 4wd will not illuminate. you have to jump 2 wires at the plug to make the light come on (forget what 2). obviously if you unplug it and you are still running the factory carrier, it wont engage either.

I must have lost the 4wd light harness, I don't remember seeing it hanging down when the trans was out :confused:

I was thinking about wiring up a switch for the front end so I could have 2 low, but it's not really worth it if I'm going to put the locker in soon.

Also, I will say the rear bearing design is complete shit compared to a Toyota. I had to hammer the backing plate to get the bearing out, then hammer it back in, stud fell out, what a pain.

Also, it has 4.62s, not 5.13s :( 2big owes me big time now.

Actually, it's not a huge difference, plus the 2 door should be the same so I have spares.

YotaAtieToo 03-20-2019 10:40 PM

Got the shifters in, I thought I posted this, but didn't see the pics. The auto shifter almost lined up, the 2 rear holes worked, but the auto shifter was a little longer so I had to notch the tunnel a little and use self tap screws on the front 2 holes. Tcase shifter didnt move enough to really make a difference.

https://i.postimg.cc/MGbbF7pw/20190317-130533.jpg

Mounted the trans cooler, I used 2 hard mounts and 2 of those ghetto zip tie like deals that they come with, so it's only half ghetto :flipoff2:

https://i.postimg.cc/BvN1gQNQ/20190320-104958.jpg

Pit the coil spacers in, these were on the 2 door no idea what brand they are but the lip just didn't work, I ended up cutting it off all 4 of them. The rears were about 2.5" and the fronts were about 2" I think the front might be too much, it didn't move at all when I sent it down :laughing: I won't be messing with those things again with out a coil compressor, what a pain.

https://i.postimg.cc/N0Lrdvn6/20190320-153915.jpg

Finally sitting on its tires again, just waiting on my driveline spacer and I can test drive.

https://i.postimg.cc/X7pSN2t2/20190320-201814.jpg

2big bronco 03-21-2019 03:31 PM

I suppose I could walk outside and look at mine but how hard would it be to just make some new a-arm mounts that reach a little further out to get you the right width for the toy axles

YotaAtieToo 03-21-2019 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44369650)
I suppose I could walk outside and look at mine but how hard would it be to just make some new a-arm mounts that reach a little further out to get you the right width for the toy axles

That's where the hegan mod comes in. The problem is that the diff mounts are really close to the tiny stock cv's so they are in the way of the much larger Toyota cv's

I'm thinking about measuring the stock bushings and ordering some ruff stuff bushings to build new mounts.

YotaAtieToo 03-22-2019 10:54 AM

Driveline spacer came last night, but I'm trying to deal with the trailer. Came from out of state, so dmv wants to do a Vin verification. Well the manufacturer only put on a sticker, and not surprisingly, after 20 years you can read it :rolleyes: well I stamped the Vin in the frame and went back to dmv and said "oh, I found the vin"

Nope, have to go to CHP :shaking: what a joke.

2big bronco 03-22-2019 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44370592)
Driveline spacer came last night, but I'm trying to deal with the trailer. Came from out of state, so dmv wants to do a Vin verification. Well the manufacturer only put on a sticker, and not surprisingly, after 20 years you can read it :rolleyes: well I stamped the Vin in the frame and went back to dmv and said "oh, I found the vin"

Nope, have to go to CHP :shaking: what a joke.

What kind of asshole sold you an out of state trailer? I'll bet the sidekick didnt even come with a pink slip. Hopefully you didnt pay a penny over 1k for the pair :flipoff2:

YotaAtieToo 03-22-2019 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44370710)
What kind of asshole sold you an out of state trailer? I'll bet the sidekick didnt even come with a pink slip. Hopefully you didnt pay a penny over 1k for the pair :flipoff2:

The biggest asshole ever!

Suzuki was an easy change over.

Took her for a spin just now, it's running like total shit once it warms up. Like hit the gas and it just sputters. I thought maybe the muffler was plugged up with rat nests, so I unbolted the exhaust right before it, no change. I know the cat is good because I had it out for the trans swap.

It threw a cel too p0300 random misfire or multiple cylinder misfire(off to Google)

Any ideas?

It did it a little once before, I thought it was related to the alternator dying.

2big bronco 03-23-2019 02:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44371358)
The biggest asshole ever!

Suzuki was an easy change over.

Took her for a spin just now, it's running like total shit once it warms up. Like hit the gas and it just sputters. I thought maybe the muffler was plugged up with rat nests, so I unbolted the exhaust right before it, no change. I know the cat is good because I had it out for the trans swap.

It threw a cel too p0300 random misfire or multiple cylinder misfire(off to Google)

Any ideas?

It did it a little once before, I thought it was related to the alternator dying.


No idea it always ran great. Last trip was all the way to koh and back....... my guess is its somehow related to sitting for a year or rats chewed something. Old gas?

YotaAtieToo 03-23-2019 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44371992)
No idea it always ran great. Last trip was all the way to koh and back....... my guess is its somehow related to sitting for a year or rats chewed something. Old gas?

It's weird because it seems to run OK when it's cold, but once it's all the way warm it's terrible. Like it won't even move on flat ground and barely wants to start.

When I googled the code people said maybe coil packs, vacuum leak, egr or a few others. Egr makes the most sense to me since it's only once it's warm. But I wonder if I have more than one thing working against me. Maybe I'll start will filling it up with good gas and replacing the fuel filter.

YotaAtieToo 03-24-2019 04:20 PM

Filled the tank up with good gas and 2 bottles of fuel injector cleaner, changed the fuel filter and plugs, cleaned the map (I'm assuming, back of the intake manifold) and maf, plus unplugged the egr. Drove around for a few hours and it ran great. I plugged the egr in just now when I got back and it seemed to still run good, so maybe it was just a combination of all the other stuff making it run bad. I'll have to see next time I get a chance to drive around.

It's still not perfect though

Trans will sometimes not react with slight amount of throttle and then bang into gear, it will do this a few time then seem good.

Tires rub (obviously) the front isn't as bad as I thought, but will need attention before any real trails.

Shocks are too short front and rear, it's basically topped out just sitting there. Longer shocks for the rear are no big deal, I may space the bump stops down also to help with rubbing. I know they make spacers for the front, but I'm wondering if that's a bad idea with the stock cv's? They look pretty steep as it is.

It definitely needs way more gearing even low isn't really low enough for cruising down tight trails. High is OKish for the road but not great. Basically, exactly what I have been saying for a while is that a Sami case with ~1.6 high and 4.xx low would be perfect. It is tempting to just drop some 4.24 gears in the stock case and go. Sami cases are getting hard to find, plus I'd have to figure out drive shafts, source and intermediate shaft, a tcase mount, a trans mount, ect. But the use able high range might be worth it.

My 6 year old helped in the paint job a little more :laughing:

https://i.postimg.cc/J0m7nb8P/20190322-144312.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/KY6v66HX/20190324-120624.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/SK2xtSV7/20190324-121617.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/FzZrJ7sm/20190324-124645.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/qBXMFZcY/20190324-132936.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Kztvx061/20190324-132950.jpg

YotaAtieToo 03-25-2019 03:05 PM

Working a deal right now to get a 4.16 Sami case for this thing. I was hoping for 4.9s but I think it will work well for what I'm doing. If this thing progresses I'll just switch to a track kick doubler. In fact, I'm thinking about just mounting the sami case behind the stock case divorced and then just lop off the stock front out put and cap it. :laughing:

Probably not though. Just the Sami case would work perfectly. After driving on the road in low (1.8) its not bad, but anything over 30 its revving a little. So the 1.55 or so of the 4.16s should be great. Plus low is about 2.5 times lower, which should be plenty with the auto.

YotaAtieToo 03-25-2019 06:30 PM

https://i.postimg.cc/NFdMq0nN/20190325-164849.jpg

Went out for another hour or so with the egr plugged in and it ran great. Which is nice because I have to smog it to get it registered.

The tires are definitely bad ass for the wet slick shit, it's actually pretty hard to get them to spin. :laughing:

YotaAtieToo 03-25-2019 08:35 PM

So since you guys got my head all spinning on building a steel front diff, or at a minimum basically completely remounting what I have. I've thought about using the 2 door rear axle to build a front center, which would be cool.

But why not just use a Toyota ifs center?

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.pir...html%3Famp%3D1

They are everywhere, cheap and 4.56s weren't too un common in the 2nd Gen 4runner. The cv's would obviously bolt up, spartan lockers are available and cheap.

YotaAtieToo 03-26-2019 08:39 AM

I had another thought about this stupid diff..... :homer:

Remember when everyone was breaking Sami tcases? Then someone realized that you just needed to brace the case. I'm thinking about hard mounting the diff and adding as much bracing as I can. Now obviously the difference is that there are steel diffs available, which is just a better option, but I'm just curious as to how much the aluminum diff will take with some bracing.

chevy1925 03-26-2019 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44375480)
So since you guys got my head all spinning on building a steel front diff, or at a minimum basically completely remounting what I have. I've thought about using the 2 door rear axle to build a front center, which would be cool.

But why not just use a Toyota ifs center?

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.pir...html%3Famp%3D1

They are everywhere, cheap and 4.56s weren't too un common in the 2nd Gen 4runner. The cv's would obviously bolt up, spartan lockers are available and cheap.

i would have gone toy if they made 5.13 gears but 5.29 are too far apart to run high speed in 4wd and not break shit. i also didnt like the fact id spend all that time putting a new diff in only to gain .5 larger ring gear.

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44375954)
I had another thought about this stupid diff..... :homer:

Remember when everyone was breaking Sami tcases? Then someone realized that you just needed to brace the case. I'm thinking about hard mounting the diff and adding as much bracing as I can. Now obviously the difference is that there are steel diffs available, which is just a better option, but I'm just curious as to how much the aluminum diff will take with some bracing.

all you gotta do is brace the pinion. its strong till you have to back up and front end is in a bind, thats when the pinion mount breaks and shit gets floppy. ive seen guys strap the top of the pinion down to the other side of the frame and have no issues.

YotaAtieToo 03-26-2019 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy1925 (Post 44376132)
i would have gone toy if they made 5.13 gears but 5.29 are too far apart to run high speed in 4wd and not break shit. i also didnt like the fact id spend all that time putting a new diff in only to gain .5 larger ring gear.

I realize it's not s huge increase in strength. I have 4.62s in both rigs so a factory toy 4.56 diff would be perfect.

My thought was that if I have to redo all the mounts to move zuk diff and clear the Toyota cv's, just mounting up a different diff wouldn't be that big of a deal. Plus it already has the right cv flanges, so I could probably sell my adapters. The spartan is ~$250 instead of $550.

I already found a 4.10 diff for free that I could use for mock up. When you start thinking about trying to track down a steel vitara diff and 3rd then still be limited to the one $$$ locker, the Toyota diff makes more and more sense.


all you gotta do is brace the pinion. its strong till you have to back up and front end is in a bind, thats when the pinion mount breaks and shit gets floppy. ive seen guys strap the top of the pinion down to the other side of the frame and have no issues.

But...... This it what I'm thinking. Honestly, as it is, it will do 75% of what I want. I really just don't want to shred these tires on the firewall. So I may as well rework the front end and add a the locker I already have.

chevy1925 03-26-2019 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44376198)
But...... This it what I'm thinking. Honestly, as it is, it will do 75% of what I want. I really just don't want to shred these tires on the firewall. So I may as well rework the front end and add a the locker I already have.

i have a very bad case of "if im in there, lets over build". I did that with my samurai, worked well. i tried to do just enough on the tracker and its biting me in the ass so im back to the over building again. So it just comes down to what you feel is enough for ya. obviously guys can go well above what i did and put a damn currie 9" ifs diff in front with 934 cv and so on.

YotaAtieToo 03-26-2019 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy1925 (Post 44376326)
i have a very bad case of "if im in there, lets over build". I did that with my samurai, worked well. i tried to do just enough on the tracker and its biting me in the ass so im back to the over building again. So it just comes down to what you feel is enough for ya. obviously guys can go well above what i did and put a damn currie 9" ifs diff in front with 934 cv and so on.

I'm the same way. It served me well with my 4runner as I never had to get drug out of the woods or leave it over night or anything. Obviously stuff still breaks, but I think it was pretty reliable.

This rig just has a different goal. I don't plan to load up my whole family in it (I couldn't even if I wanted too :laughing: ) and take off to the middle of no where like I did in the 4runner. It's supposed just be a fun little rig to thrash around with and not care about. We have a 99 4runner on 33s with an elocker that will take us almost as many places as this rig, but all the trail around the property are over grown and the 4runner is too nice to drag through the brush.

For now I'm just going to screw with it as it is. I'm working on getting the Sami tcase and associated parts. I'm going to keep an eye out for a 4.56 diff. Once I get all the stuff for the Sami case together, I'll do the yota cv's and either modify the stock diff mounts or try to mount up a Toyota diff.

YotaAtieToo 03-26-2019 07:51 PM

Well I think I figured out the trans surging issue........

Turns out they work better when they aren't low on trans fluid :homer: I filled it after I installed it and forgot to check it after I ran it and got all the air out. It actually puts down a noticeable difference in power, it will spin the tires in 2 high now.

YotaAtieToo 03-27-2019 02:23 PM

Clearances the fenders a little more. The front barely rubs the firewall at full stuff and it's actually a smooth area, so not too bad.

https://i.postimg.cc/MTQWYqHT/20190326-172346.jpg

The rear was still rubbing pretty bad on the fender lip, I pulled the tire on the passenger side and hammered the lip over. For some reason, I didn't do the driver side and this time out I ended up chunking the outter lugs pretty bad :homer:

We went out for a few hours in the pouring rain today. Climbed some really steep muddy hills will out spinning a tire. The thing is actually pretty plush, the only thing that sucks is that you can feel and hear the shocks topping out over bumps. I'm going to grab some longer ones for the rear using this graph, and I'll worry about the struts after I redo the front end.

Suzuki Sidekick – Geo Tracker Shock Options : Zuki Offroad

Had the 18 month old, 3 month old and the wife (6 yr old is at school) What's funny is that in certain ways there is more room in this little thing than the 90 and 96 4runners we have/had. The seating position and leg room is way better, there is a ton of head room and it really doesn't feel much narrower, if at all. All 3 have the same width factory axles, so maybe they aren't that far off. The zuk is definitely shorter, less room between the front and rear seats and about half the room behind the rear seats.

Anyways, the reason I posted an update, we broke it! :laughing:

Got stuck in this nasty clay hole. As I was on the come a long, the wife was giving it steady throttle and sawing the wheel a little. Right when the front was starting to grab harder ground, it stopped spinning. I'm guessing passenger side cv since it was making noise right before that, both had torn boots.

https://i.postimg.cc/fyQM2pSv/20190327-114643.jpg

So I guess I'll be working on the front end sooner than later.

2big bronco 03-27-2019 07:41 PM

Fyi Jordan usually has between 2 and 20 its toyotas in various stages of being parted out and built. He probably has any random parts you need

YotaAtieToo 03-27-2019 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44378530)
Fyi Jordan usually has between 2 and 20 its toyotas in various stages of being parted out and built. He probably has any random parts you need

Of course he has the stuff I need, too bad you guys are too far away, and paying $100 to ship a $25 diff is hard to justify.

There are a million 2nd Gen 4runners being parted out and 4.56 was somewhat common, so I should be able to come across one. Plus it's one of the few parts no one wants off of them.

jr4x 03-28-2019 06:19 AM

That thing is awesome! I'm super interested to see how the toy IFS diff fits and installs. I have that IFS stuff available to me but I'm out of samurai t-cases.

YotaAtieToo 03-28-2019 08:16 PM

So I spent the day pulling my dual case and 60s out of my burnt 4runner. I'm pretty optimistic that the tcases are good (twin sticks, marlin 23 spline adapter and 4.7 rear, longfield chromo rear output and marlin 30 spline front output) they still have oil in them, shift fine and spin like normal.

If someone made an adapter to go straight from the 3spd to toyota cases, I would have ordered it already. From what I found, low range made one for a while but it looks like it's discontinued?

I guess I should just stick with the Sami case for now, but having those cases available makes it tempting.

2big bronco 03-29-2019 09:13 PM

The last 5 or so posts here might help out a little or at least give you ideas

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/suzu...anger-kit.html

YotaAtieToo 03-30-2019 12:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44381936)
The last 5 or so posts here might help out a little or at least give you ideas

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/suzu...anger-kit.html

Thanks

I came across those pics searching as well. Og kicker 4. My old samurai had the ott divorced adapter to dual Toyota cases.

It's too bad ott isn't still around they made neat odd ball stuff.

I remember seeing a 22re to sm420 adapter kit on their site :laughing:

Like I was saying over text, I like the idea of trying to broach the zuk splines into the tcase input. The problem I would imagine is that you can't broach a blind hole.

The other idea would be to steal the female input out of the tracker tcase, then bore a hole into the Toyota tcase with a tight press fit, then tig them together.

2big bronco 03-30-2019 10:37 AM

I have a spare kick case. It's an 89 so you cant gear it and it's not worth much but if you need parts.

YotaAtieToo 03-30-2019 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44382518)
I have a spare kick case. It's an 89 so you cant gear it and it's not worth much but if you need parts

OK, thanks, I'll have 2, but I guess it would be smart not to tear apart good cases.

jr4x 03-31-2019 06:53 AM

I'm pretty sure I have calmini strut spacers at the house if you want them. I definitely had them, they were installed on the Green 2wd and the new struts broke right away. I pulled the spacers when I did the A-arm conversion. I'll put them in the mail when I get home if you can use them.

YotaAtieToo 03-31-2019 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44383384)
I'm pretty sure I have calmini strut spacers at the house if you want them. I definitely had them, they were installed on the Green 2wd and the new struts broke right away. I pulled the spacers when I did the A-arm conversion. I'll put them in the mail when I get home if you can use them.

I appreciate that, I'm wondering if adding more down travel would be bad for the cv's and steering?

I guess I'll take them, let me know what you want for them.

530 592 6033
Jeff

jr4x 03-31-2019 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44383524)
I appreciate that, I'm wondering if adding more down travel would be bad for the cv's and steering?

I guess I'll take them, let me know what you want for them.

530 592 6033
Jeff

I'm days from the house but I'll look for them as soon as I get home. Even the spacer lifts use strut spacers to get the shock to not over extend, you'll want them. I just gotta make sure I can find them both, I threw them in my scrap pile still bolted to two broken struts so I'll let you know if I have them.

YotaAtieToo 03-31-2019 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44383966)
I'm days from the house but I'll look for them as soon as I get home. Even the spacer lifts use strut spacers to get the shock to not over extend, you'll want them. I just gotta make sure I can find them both, I threw them in my scrap pile still bolted to two broken struts so I'll let you know if I have them.

Sounds good, thank you.

YotaAtieToo 04-02-2019 10:08 PM

So a buddy sent me a link to a way to good of a deal on a 4.56 diff with an arb......... Unfortunately it's a Tacoma diff so it's driver drop and high pinion, it's cheap enough I may grab it just for the arb. It would drop into the 96 4runner I have also if it doesn't work out with the suzuki.

Snowballs are a bitch

YotaAtieToo 04-02-2019 11:49 PM

I was thinking about the offer on the strut spacers and remembered that I could tell the ones on it are pretty blown out, sooooo.....

I did some googling and decided to try the cheap-o route with the shocks and struts.

Rear shocks

Suzuki Sidekick – Geo Tracker Shock Options : Zuki Offroad

Front struts

Longer Struts For Your Geo Tracker – Suzuki Sidekick : Zuki Offroad

So the rear is just a list of stem top style shocks that are longer, pretty simple.

The front I figured would be harder since they're struts, but someone figured out some gm cars that have a very similar rear strut that will bolt up with a little egging out of one hole.

For those who don't know, apparently there is roughly 2" of strut shaft showing even after you are on the bump stops. These struts have a 1 3/4" longer body, which works out, plus that nets 3 1/4" more extended length.

Paid like $110 for all 4 on Amazon, so we'll see.

jr4x 04-03-2019 06:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44386942)
Snowballs are a bitch

Yeah they are!

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44387040)
Paid like $110 for all 4 on Amazon, so we'll see.

Interested to see what you think of them. So you don't need the spacers?

YotaAtieToo 04-03-2019 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44387186)
Yeah they are!



Interested to see what you think of them. So you don't need the spacers?

I'll hold off on them for now, thanks again.

As far as the cheap-o shocks, I'm not setting the bar to high. Honestly, I'm not bashing it too hard as far as speed or jumps or whatever. Just want something to ride nice.

Im really thinking about collecting parts to build this thing into a crawler down the road. So I don't want to go to crazy on shocks, that might get tossed anyway.

chevy1925 04-03-2019 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44387040)
I was thinking about the offer on the strut spacers and remembered that I could tell the ones on it are pretty blown out, sooooo.....

I did some googling and decided to try the cheap-o route with the shocks and struts.

Rear shocks

Suzuki Sidekick – Geo Tracker Shock Options : Zuki Offroad

Front struts

Longer Struts For Your Geo Tracker – Suzuki Sidekick : Zuki Offroad

So the rear is just a list of stem top style shocks that are longer, pretty simple.

The front I figured would be harder since they're struts, but someone figured out some gm cars that have a very similar rear strut that will bolt up with a little egging out of one hole.

For those who don't know, apparently there is roughly 2" of strut shaft showing even after you are on the bump stops. These struts have a 1 3/4" longer body, which works out, plus that nets 3 1/4" more extended length.

Paid like $110 for all 4 on Amazon, so we'll see.

that goes for 1st gen only, not 2nd gen. you will top the shock out long before you hit the bump stop. I know because im running those struts. you will either need to space the bump stop down and limit your down travel (its going to droop out ALOT) or reverse your strut mount spacers to move the mounts up higher. cruise through my thread and look for the red spacers. I gained 2" of down travel (about perfect for max droop/angle on stock CV) and still had full up travel. i have 10" of wheel travel overall with this setup.

YotaAtieToo 04-03-2019 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy1925 (Post 44387410)
that goes for 1st gen only, not 2nd gen. you will top the shock out long before you hit the bump stop. I know because im running those struts. you will either need to space the bump stop down and limit your down travel (its going to droop out ALOT) or reverse your strut mount spacers to move the mounts up higher. cruise through my thread and look for the red spacers. I gained 2" of down travel (about perfect for max droop/angle on stock CV) and still had full up travel. i have 10" of wheel travel overall with this setup.

So the stock struts on the 2nd Gen are near bottomed out when they hit the bump stops?

I may lower the diff a little when I mount it

chevy1925 04-03-2019 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44387498)
So the stock struts on the 2nd Gen are near bottomed out when they hit the bump stops?

I may lower the diff a little when I mount it

yes sir. i attempted to just cut/reweld the top strut mount for more down travel on stock struts like 1st gen guys have done. cutting them flush made for way too much down travel and damn near bottomed out at ride height. split the difference and i would slam the strut into the mount on a decent hit well before the bump hit.

there isnt very much from the 1st gen that crosses over here sadly. the strut you bought will still need the same mods and will work but will require the mount height adjustment via a spacer. you will loose the cross bar in doing this as well as it will be way too high unless you modify that too.

sorry i keep bursting your bubble on all this. feel like the negative nancy over here lmao

posford 04-03-2019 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44382172)
I like the idea of trying to broach the zuk splines into the tcase input. The problem I would imagine is that you can't broach a blind hole.

I'm not much help all the way over here, but it is possible to broach a blind hole.

YotaAtieToo 04-03-2019 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy1925 (Post 44387516)
yes sir. i attempted to just cut/reweld the top strut mount for more down travel on stock struts like 1st gen guys have done. cutting them flush made for way too much down travel and damn near bottomed out at ride height. split the difference and i would slam the strut into the mount on a decent hit well before the bump hit.

there isnt very much from the 1st gen that crosses over here sadly. the strut you bought will still need the same mods and will work but will require the mount height adjustment via a spacer. you will loose the cross bar in doing this as well as it will be way too high unless you modify that too.

sorry i keep bursting your bubble on all this. feel like the negative nancy over here lmao

No worries, I keep reading stuff assuming it applies to the 2nd Gen and I need to stop :laughing: all info is welcome.

I'll make it work one way or another. Right now the struts are topped out at ride height, so anything I do would

Quote:

Originally Posted by posford (Post 44387588)
I'm not much help all the way over here, but it is possible to broach a blind hole.

OK, but is it realistic? Home much would would you think it would cost to broach one input?

posford 04-04-2019 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44387790)
OK, but is it realistic? Home much would would you think it would cost to broach one input?

We did it in CNC lathes. straight tool shaped like a single tooth of the spline that would punch in with nothing rotating taking little bites, stepping over until full depth, then index the part 1 tooth and start over. I don't know of any manual lathes that you can lock and index the head on, but with someone willing to get creative its doable on home scale.

Cost? Fucked if I know

YotaAtieToo 04-04-2019 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by posford (Post 44388998)
We did it in CNC lathes. straight tool shaped like a single tooth of the spline that would punch in with nothing rotating taking little bites, stepping over until full depth, then index the part 1 tooth and start over. I don't know of any manual lathes that you can lock and index the head on, but with someone willing to get creative its doable on home scale.

Cost? Fucked if I know

Makes sense, the hard part may be the size. Zuk output it like 1" Dia :laughing:

posford 04-04-2019 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44389548)
Makes sense, the hard part may be the size. Zuk output it like 1" Dia :laughing:

We put a 16 or 18 tooth spline in a .75" OD piece with a .425" pilot hole like that.

Before that we bought a large press and had stepped broaches, probably 12 of them, that would incrementally shave the tooth into the bore. It was a shitty process and the broaches were like $1,500 with a ridiculous lead time, 8 weeks or something.

YotaAtieToo 04-04-2019 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by posford (Post 44389568)
We put a 16 or 18 tooth spline in a .75" OD piece with a .425" pilot hole like that.

Before that we bought a large press and had stepped broaches, probably 12 of them, that would incrementally shave the tooth into the bore. It was a shitty process and the broaches were like $1,500 with a ridiculous lead time, 8 weeks or something.

OK, I'll have to talk to my father in law, he's been a machinist his whole life. But he mostly writes programs for cnc mills. Not sure what he would know about this type of process.

I've done keyways with a similar style tool, so I know what you mean.

YotaAtieToo 04-04-2019 04:07 PM

Well I picked up a 4.56 diff today. So my next focus is getting the Toyota diff under there.

jr4x 04-06-2019 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44389610)
Well I picked up a 4.56 diff today. So my next focus is getting the Toyota diff under there.

Is the flange to flange mounting width pretty close to the same as the GV/Kick ones?

YotaAtieToo 04-06-2019 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44391618)
Is the flange to flange mounting width pretty close to the same as the GV/Kick ones?

Good question :flipoff2:

I haven't measured it yet, but I assume it's gotta be really close if guys are fitting the Toyota cv's in place of the stock ones.

So the more I think about it, I'm leaning towards shelving the arb for our 96 4runner (has a factory e locker and 33s already) I even ordered a spartan for $250. Adding the extra air compressor, lines and wiring just doesn't feel like it fits into this build. I liked my spartan in my 4runner when I had the Toyota axles. Especially with 2 low ability, basically acts open.

YotaAtieToo 04-06-2019 05:55 PM

Pulled the stock diff out, man that thing is light, I pretty much lowered it out with one hand :laughing:

Side by side they look very close, dimensionally at least.

https://i.postimg.cc/DyS1VrBY/20190406-155652.jpg

Rough mock up doesn't look too bad. I was a little worried about the rack and pinion being in the way, and I was right. I'll figure something out. Might have to lop off the mount on the diff cover.

The other issue is that I it's about 1-1.5" off center and can't move over anymore because it's into the oil pan. The one write up I saw, the guy lifted the engine up. Looking at this rig, the motor mount brackets bolt to the frame. My plan is to unbolt them, lift the motor up as high as I can and then weld the brackets to the frame. I may have to notch the crossmember a little also.

Sounds like a lot, but it doesn't seem that bad to me.

https://i.postimg.cc/xdfCQY9T/20190406-160230.jpg

I also messed with one of the struts a little bit, I only had to file the holes a tiny bit to get it to bolt up, but the camber was way off. I need to borrow a die grinder to slot the top hole so I can lean the tire in. I wasn't to wait until I get the Toyota cv's in first though because it looks like it could be close.

Also dealing with a bear getting in the garage :laughing: we normally leave 1 door open about a foot for the mountain cat that came with the house. We'll a few days ago a bear got in, knocked my front 60 off the jack stands, spilled a gallon of nasty burnt gear oil, and ate like 40 lbs of cat food. :eek: so I figured I'll just put a bolt in the door so it can't open more than a foot.

He wasn't impressed

https://i.postimg.cc/853PL6Mj/20190402-081559.jpg

Also been burning a ton of brush, leaves and whatnot. This was the solution to keep the damp stuff going while it's been raining. Just kept it at idle and man did it get intense.

https://i.postimg.cc/rwBXT2xR/20190401-162335.jpg

jr4x 04-08-2019 08:50 AM

So while it's bulkier the Toy diff is definitely narrower.

Does the pinion need to be directly under the oil pan to center up properly?

YotaAtieToo 04-08-2019 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44393280)
So while it's bulkier the Toy diff is definitely narrower.

Does the pinion need to be directly under the oil pan to center up properly?

It's hard to give an exact measurement since the pass side zuk diff has no flange. But yes, it does appear a little narrower. Which would make sense the wms of the Toyota is a hair narrower.

No, not directly, just a little bit more towards the driver side. The zuk diff is smaller and the oil pan is literally form fit to it.

2big bronco 04-09-2019 11:01 PM

So with the toy diff a little narrower you may not even need hub spacers then to run the toy shafts?

YotaAtieToo 04-09-2019 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44395768)
So with the toy diff a little narrower you may not even need hub spacers then to run the toy shafts?

No, the stub is still way longer and needs to seat against the back of the spindle.

Im thinking I won't need the widening mod, which is funny, because that mod started this whole mess :laughing: but, the suzuki diff would have had the 1/2" thick spacers with the Toyota cv's. So maybe they are basically the same.

Seeing how easy that cv popped makes me glad I'm going to toyota stuff though.

2big bronco 04-13-2019 10:52 PM

You finished with this turdbucket yet? I'm living vicariously through your build since I dont have the time to keep working on mine.

YotaAtieToo 04-13-2019 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44400822)
You finished with this turdbucket yet? I'm living vicariously through your build since I dont have the time to keep working on mine.

No, we're in tri cities Washington right now, on our way to ID for the week.

I just got called back to work, so we'll see how much I'll get done.

86chevyjoe 04-14-2019 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44400826)
No, we're in tri cities Washington right now, on our way to ID for the week.

I just got called back to work, so we'll see how much I'll get done.

dang! you come up through yakima? we were snow wheelin yesterday!

YotaAtieToo 04-14-2019 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86chevyjoe (Post 44401902)
dang! you come up through yakima? we were snow wheelin yesterday!

No, 97 to the river then east.

Did that ridge ever fall down just south of town?

86chevyjoe 04-14-2019 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44402146)
No, 97 to the river then east.

Did that ridge ever fall down just south of town?

Nope, actually stopped moving

2big bronco 05-04-2019 03:52 PM

This turf done yet?

YotaAtieToo 05-04-2019 04:07 PM

Haven't touched it since we got home from Idaho. Started back to work 6 days a week the next day.

I honestly thought about selling it, but I can't imagine it's worth anything with no front diff, especially since stupid suzuki used slip yokes front and rear, so I can't even limp around in 2wd.

I was actually thinking about trying to get something done today and/or tomorrow on it.

2big bronco 05-05-2019 03:21 PM

How much do you want to put the motor/tranny Into my little samurai? I already have the 2wd transmision conversion kit to work with the samurai tcase

YotaAtieToo 06-25-2019 09:59 AM

Wtf, what a lame thread

Really hoping to make some progress in time for 4th of July.

2big bronco 06-27-2019 04:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44496866)
Wtf, what a lame thread

Really hoping to make some progress in time for 4th of July.

Go kick the OP in the nuts and have him get with it.

BrynarHróarsson 07-01-2019 05:14 PM

I put a yota ifs diff in my 2 gen. I chopped og the diff cover mount and made a new one than connects between the front crossmembers.

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...5b&oe=5DAFDF11

YotaAtieToo 07-01-2019 05:53 PM

Nice, good to know it fits a 2nd Gen.

Did you move the engine at all?

Were the spacers necessary for factory arms? Or did you do a hegan mod of some kind?

86chevyjoe 07-02-2019 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44505156)
Nice, good to know it fits a 2nd Gen.

Did you move the engine at all?

Were the spacers necessary for factory arms? Or did you do a hegan mod of some kind?

did you see what tires hes running???

i want to see more pics of that rig!!!

86chevyjoe 07-02-2019 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrynarHróarsson (Post 44505118)
I put a yota ifs diff in my 2 gen. I chopped og the diff cover mount and made a new one than connects between the front crossmembers.

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...5b&oe=5DAFDF11

more pics of rig please!!!!

BrynarHróarsson 07-02-2019 03:48 PM

I have the chopped frame mod same as in this thread

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/suzu...ser-build.html

So I've got more room under the engine. Like you see in the pic I've got tubular a arms that move the spindle front and outward to gain room. I´m also running toyota landcruiser 90/prado axleshafts in the front with toyota pickup cv's. landcruiser shafts are 15mm or 5/8 Inch longer than stock pickup axles, and the spacers. I do this to allow from more downtravel in the front.
So total length of front axles with spacers is 45 mm longer than stock, I plan on replacing them with T100 shafts and cv's when I brake something.

could share pics/ info of spindle machine work if your interested.

I run 38x14.50R15 during winter 37x12.50R15 turing summer.

more pics

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...ce&oe=5DBFB5AD

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...ab&oe=5DB2BAA2

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...2a&oe=5DC1AF00


suspension with stock zuk axle, Ran it for about a year with stock suzuki front and rear never broke a thing with 37 inch tyers. now i have 4rrunner rear.
https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...49&oe=5DC0BF1C

YotaAtieToo 07-10-2019 11:48 PM

Finally was able to get myself to touch this thing with some help from @904_runner

Like I mentioned before, my plan was to unbolt the motor mount bracket, lift the motor up to desired height, and then weld brackets to the frame. For know I pulled the mount out and flipped the bracket over for mock up.

https://i.postimg.cc/Rhk4nwwN/20190710-221816.jpg

Stock diff mount off the cover if definitely in the way, so I just unbolted the cover off the mockup diff. We were able to get the diff pretty damn close to where it's needs to be by lifting the motor up about an inch and shifting it to the drivers side about an inch or maybe a little more.

After staring at it for a bit, I think I'm going to have to notch the crossmember to get the diff to sit flat. I'm OK with it being a little lower since it will help cv angle anyway.

https://i.postimg.cc/Kjkmz0k6/20190710-221825.jpg

904_runner 07-11-2019 12:21 AM

So are we going to spend all this time modifying it to accept the Toyota ifs diff and then a month later you’re going to decide to just put your Dana 60 in the front? Maybe we should just do that from the get go? Might as well just start ordering parts for that now. :flipoff2:

I’ll try to bring over some more beers and help you tomorrow.

YotaAtieToo 07-11-2019 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 904_runner (Post 44516444)
So are we going to spend all this time modifying it to accept the Toyota ifs diff and then a month later you’re going to decide to just put your Dana 60 in the front? Maybe we should just do that from the get go? Might as well just start ordering parts for that now. :flipoff2:

I’ll try to bring over some more beers and help you tomorrow.

I feel like diff clearance might be a problem with 32s and a 60 :flipoff2:

YotaAtieToo 07-12-2019 04:35 PM

So the current delema is that I didn't take any measurements before ripping the old diff out. :homer: so I'm not exactly sure how high it needs to sit. My plan is to drop it a bit in order to help the cv angle, but I don't want to go too crazy.

I guess I'll measure up the 1st Gen to at least get an idea.

2big bronco 07-12-2019 09:52 PM

I can get you any measurements you might need

YotaAtieToo 07-12-2019 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44519334)
I can get you any measurements you might need

Thanks homie, I thought about texting you but then I didn't :flipoff2:

Does your bil still want that locker?

I was just looking for a height measurement, so bottom of frame rail to center of the flanges?

2big bronco 07-13-2019 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44519354)
Thanks homie, I thought about texting you but then I didn't :flipoff2:

Does your bil still want that locker?

I was just looking for a height measurement, so bottom of frame rail to center of the flanges?



He needs a new 4spd auto before he needs a locker

I'll go see what I can measure with minimal effort :flipoff2



On driverside directly under the front of the shock tower I got 3-3/4" down to centerline of cv output

YotaAtieToo 07-13-2019 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44519766)
He needs a new 4spd auto before he needs a locker

I'll go see what I can measure with minimal effort :flipoff2



On driverside directly under the front of the shock tower I got 3-3/4" down to centerline of cv output

Thanks homie

YotaAtieToo 07-13-2019 10:36 PM

So this is what I came up with using my (not so) broad selection of steel. Started as 4x4x.188 the plan is to weld the piece to the diff tube and then make it bolt to the crossmembers.

https://i.postimg.cc/Dfcm3Srn/20190713-204041.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/DyjZmRpN/20190713-204053.jpg

It will wind up just shy of an inch lower than the stock one. It looks a lot lower, but it's probably partially because the diff is bigger. It only hangs about 1/4" lower than the stock crossmember, so I didn't really loose anything. I do feel like a skid plate might be a good idea with the cover being aluminum. I'll deal with that later.

I still need to make the mount for the pinion, but that will just be a piece of plate with 2 holes welded to the side of the rear a arm mount.

2big bronco 07-14-2019 09:38 AM

Looks good, my future sidekick is coming along nicely.
Any plans of registering it?

YotaAtieToo 07-14-2019 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44520234)
Looks good, my future sidekick is coming along nicely.
Any plans of registering it?

It's possible! :flipoff2:

Yes, I tried to smog it the last time I had a day off but the batt had died so obviously the monitors weren't ready. I didn't want to drive it around with the front driveline zip tied up, so I figured I just need to get this stupid diff in so I can drive it and have a reason to register it.

Just now got all the plates with the nuts welded on the back welded to the crossmembers. Just need to att the pinion mount and a little piece to replace the section of the rear crossmember I cut out.

2big bronco 07-14-2019 04:14 PM

You still have the trackick tcase in it?

YotaAtieToo 07-14-2019 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44520478)
You still have the trackick tcase in it?

Yes, I need to track down an intermediate shaft. Plan is to just use Toyota shafts since I have a few, they're way stronger and easier to find than stock samurai shit.

YotaAtieToo 07-14-2019 11:08 PM

Worked on this bastard all day today.

https://i.postimg.cc/W3ZtcxYF/20190714-122052.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/bv7Ng3Yz/20190714-124143.jpg

I used the piece of 4x4 tube that I cut off to patch the spot in the rear crossmember. Worked out well.

https://i.postimg.cc/rFVyfdTt/20190714-141746.jpg

Pinion mount was pretty simple

https://i.postimg.cc/fbJJBVxv/20190714-171253.jpg

The stock breather stuck up and was hitting the oil pan. I actually happen to have my burnt 60 right there with the perfect solution. You can also see how much I cut off the diff flange.

https://i.postimg.cc/P5NXkBPX/20190714-181034.jpg

All finalized, it's tight as shit in there. I lifted the motor about an inch, and probably should have done it more.

https://i.postimg.cc/VvHh9H1g/20190714-211230.jpg

Also did an SAS on the 2 door :flipoff2:

I pulled all the ifs out of it and wanted it to remain a roller. I'm hoping to use the 1st Gen spindles so the Toyota cv conversion bushings I have will work.

YotaAtieToo 07-16-2019 11:49 PM

Pulled the 4 door back in and tore the front end apart. Turns out the 1st Gen spindles are interchangeable with the 2nd Gen. So the bushings will work as is.

I was also curious about the 1st Gen a arms since they are steel and have a bolt on ball joint instead of the stupid 1 piece cast a arm on the 2nd gen. Well the mounts lined up, but the ball joint is way further back on the 1st Gen a arm. I am really thinking about making my own a arms. It really doesn't look that complex to me. Might try to use a 7/8" hiem to replace the ball joint.

One thing that may interest some is putting 2nd Gen a arms on a 1st Gen to move the tire forward.

Another thing I noticed is that the knuckles look interchangeable, but have a few differences. The caliper ears are further out on the 2nd Gen, the 2nd Gen looks beefier in general, and the most interesting is the steering arm is way higher. Which interests me because my ends are bind before I get full droop. My plan was to just drill the knuckles for hiems and run them on top. As I type this, I'm realizing that may fuck with the toe through travel, but I'd probably never notice anyway :laughing:

https://i.postimg.cc/Wb38qd67/20190716-213047.jpg

Got the pass side CV fitted, seems like it fits like it should.

chevy1925 07-17-2019 09:13 AM

2nd gen arms are also narrower and the pivot points are slightly wider. documented alot of this in my thread as i built the arms

use the 2nd gen knuckle if at all possible. the bump steer from factory already isnt all the great, no need to amplify it with those 1st gen knuckles. if the 1st gen spindle fits the 2nd gen knuckle, you are already well ahead since the bushing will fit. just becareful putting the bushing in, its thin and the material deforms real easy.

YotaAtieToo 07-17-2019 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevy1925 (Post 44524310)
2nd gen arms are also narrower and the pivot points are slightly wider. documented alot of this in my thread as i built the arms

use the 2nd gen knuckle if at all possible. the bump steer from factory already isnt all the great, no need to amplify it with those 1st gen knuckles. if the 1st gen spindle fits the 2nd gen knuckle, you are already well ahead since the bushing will fit. just becareful putting the bushing in, its thin and the material deforms real easy.

Thanks, I remember reading some of that, I was just curious to try it myself.

My idea was to cut the end off the 1st Gen a arm and move it forward but it would be more work than it's worth imo.

chevy1925 07-18-2019 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44524370)
Thanks, I remember reading some of that, I was just curious to try it myself.

My idea was to cut the end off the 1st Gen a arm and move it forward but it would be more work than it's worth imo.

yup, i have two brand new 1st gen arms on my shelf in the garage that im not using. it was way easier to grab a set of first gen calimonkey arms for damn near nothing, cut/splice/extend those.

YotaAtieToo 07-18-2019 11:09 AM

Got 1 side together last night, I thought I had more pics, but I guess only took 1 of how far the hub sticks out. Not terrible with the 1" spacers. Might go to 1.5" and throw the 1" in the back.

https://i.postimg.cc/cCgxcvjn/20190717-185505.jpg

I want to put the longer struts on at the same time, but they are a little too long and the cv binds up at full droop. I'm thinking about getting limit straps.

YotaAtieToo 07-19-2019 10:48 AM

Kinda disappointed with lowrange right now. I decided to just order the last few parts I need for the sami tcase swap (intermediate shaft and Toyota driveline adapters)

I figured I'd grab the pair of limit straps too.

So for 2 ~4" round by 1/2" thick adapters and 2 14" limit straps they wanted $42 for shipping :confused:

So I said fuck that and got the adapters from zor (which was hard to find that they even made them) and with shipping it was the same price as just the adapters from lowrange. Then I got the limit straps on Amazon prime for half the price.

snowracer 07-19-2019 02:50 PM

not sure how i missed this build but love it :smokin: was just an event and there was a guy there with a 2 door kick on baby vtreads and it was turbo'd and that thing kicked ass all weekend. was blown away buy it for how basic it was and how well it worked

YotaAtieToo 07-19-2019 02:59 PM

I just love how cheap everything is. Brand new tire is $120 instead of $650 :laughing:

Going to see soon how it does on rock trails. Hopefully it will be fun.

Once I get it going, I really want to build some lower a arms to push the axle forward 2-3" oddly enough that wi actually make the cv's and steering line up better. I'm hoping to cram some 35s under it for snow and rocks.

2big bronco 07-19-2019 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44528412)
I'm hoping to cram some 35s under it for snow and rocks.

I came here to say it needs more sawzall and tires now that you have the front end in it. How hard would it be to just run toyota arms? Would frame mounts and shock hoops be harder then arms? Parts would probably be free.

YotaAtieToo 07-19-2019 08:31 PM

Well, test drive was a bust. What I feared, but ignored happened. The Toyota diff is actually narrower than the suzuki diff, which left the cv's too short. The boot seemed over extended, but I figured fuck it, see what happens. 5 mins of 2 mph and this happens.

https://i.postimg.cc/TYgfPCDB/20190719-190220.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/xjW9YWcK/20190719-190229.jpg

So now, do I have spacers made or just go with t100 cv's (exactly the same but 3 1/4" longer) and make my +2 wide and +3 a arms?

jr4x 07-20-2019 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44528812)
Well, test drive was a bust. What I feared, but ignored happened. The Toyota diff is actually narrower than the suzuki diff, which left the cv's too short. The boot seemed over extended, but I figured fuck it, see what happens. 5 mins of 2 mph and this happens.

https://i.postimg.cc/TYgfPCDB/20190719-190220.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/xjW9YWcK/20190719-190229.jpg

So now, do I have spacers made or just go with t100 cv's (exactly the same but 3 1/4" longer) and make my +2 wide and +3 a arms?

Are you just two 1/2" spacers away from being able to use it as is for a while and get the fun back? Because making spacers for that looks like a small easy project. I'd do that instead of taking it back apart for a few more months to build A-arms.

2big bronco 07-20-2019 08:28 AM

Cut and sleeve them for now to get on the road

YotaAtieToo 07-20-2019 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44528986)
Are you just two 1/2" spacers away from being able to use it as is for a while and get the fun back? Because making spacers for that looks like a small easy project. I'd do that instead of taking it back apart for a few more months to build A-arms.

Ya, maybe more like 1", but either way, it's not too hard of a project. The problem is, the fire took a lot of people I knows equipment. So getting something made isn't as easy as it used to be.

Hopefully it won't take that long to build some arms. I may be under thinking it, but it doesn't seem to terribly hard. At least for the standards of this rig. :laughing:

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44529048)
Cut and sleeve them for now to get on the road

I was actually thinking that also. I bet that it wouldn't be the weak point anyway. I have 3 total cv's and a buddy has a pile of them also.

I still want to build a arms, but it would be nice to get out there at least a few times while I gather parts.

YotaAtieToo 07-20-2019 10:38 AM

On another note, one thing I was a little worried about was steering power. Surprisingly, even now locked in the front with the nobby tires at low pressure, it steered great. We'll see how the rack holds up to crawling though.

2big bronco 07-20-2019 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44529146)
On another note, one thing I was a little worried about was steering power. Surprisingly, even now locked in the front with the nobby tires at low pressure, it steered great. We'll see how the rack holds up to crawling though.



I'm pretty sure its Nissan Sentra shafts that people regularly cut and sleeve as a stronger then stock option. Even then the welded portion isnt what breaks.

I think the itty bitty steering links will buckle before the rack has issues. I just put the cheapest amazon rack one I could find on mine and it looked substantially better then the factory one I pulled off

YotaAtieToo 07-20-2019 05:53 PM

Ya, I remember seeing someone cut and sleeve some cv's for something and not have an issue.

YotaAtieToo 07-20-2019 08:26 PM

https://i.postimg.cc/C1hwZv5M/20190720-191302.jpg

Hey look what I found :homer:

YotaAtieToo 07-21-2019 12:22 AM

They are the suzuki to toyota cv adapters, which can interchange as a ~1/2" spacer. Which I don't think is enough, but I have an idea to make it work for now.

I tried sleeving a shaft, but all I had was some 120 wall tube, shocking that it didn't hold up......

I did pick up a bunch of cv's from a buddy, so at least I have some room for error.

jr4x 07-21-2019 06:18 AM

If no spacer was almost enough, you don't think 1/2" might be ok?

I'm already following, but definitely in to see how you tackle a-arms from scratch. I've been entertaining buying the altered ego arms as they do sell them separate, just so I can move the front tires forward. But I would like to go a touch further than they did. I need new springs anyway because the calmini ones are absolutely trashed.

The calmini kit uses coil bind as the bump stops. My springs haven't broken yet but they are definitely damaged. I'm starting to plan for a different kind of upgrade because I want lower gears, like way lower. I'm thinking 6.50's for 33's for the 16V would get my high range back where I want it. So a home built 9" housing up front and and a 9" rear. That is way overkill for the tracker but the only easy way to get the gear ratio I want. If I did the 9" diff up front it would be nice to build a sub frame and do a centered diff with longer a-arms for better travel. I've never built a-arms before or even began to plan for cv plunge and stuff.

YotaAtieToo 07-21-2019 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44529768)
If no spacer was almost enough, you don't think 1/2" might be ok?

I'm already following, but definitely in to see how you tackle a-arms from scratch. I've been entertaining buying the altered ego arms as they do sell them separate, just so I can move the front tires forward. But I would like to go a touch further than they did. I need new springs anyway because the calmini ones are absolutely trashed.

The calmini kit uses coil bind as the bump stops. My springs haven't broken yet but they are definitely damaged. I'm starting to plan for a different kind of upgrade because I want lower gears, like way lower. I'm thinking 6.50's for 33's for the 16V would get my high range back where I want it. So a home built 9" housing up front and and a 9" rear. That is way overkill for the tracker but the only easy way to get the gear ratio I want. If I did the 9" diff up front it would be nice to build a sub frame and do a centered diff with longer a-arms for better travel. I've never built a-arms before or even began to plan for cv plunge and stuff.

The one side popped out on flat ground, I think it needs more than 1/2" I'm working on cutting the flange off a bad cv right now. Not super stoked on stacked spacers, but it should be fine for what this thing is.

I really am in over my head when it comes to the cv plunge also. Right now it's just trial and error :laughing:

Got the stacked spacers in, roughly 1", initial flex test makes me think they are barely going to work. With the boot popped off it looks like its pulled a little far. Loading up now to go up to the mountains and mess around.

YotaAtieToo 07-21-2019 09:42 PM

Did ~25 mile loop of mixed smooth dirt roads, rough dirt roads, mild trails and a hair of crawling. No issues other than the noise from the pos rear drums. Rides really good, even with the struts topping out often.

https://i.postimg.cc/W30thpvg/20190721-131939.jpg

Since I don't trust this thing enough to take out in the middle of nowhere by its self, I had the wife follow in our 3rd Gen 4runner.

https://i.postimg.cc/PqgPXpBd/20190721-143116.jpg

Watch out for all that flex :flipoff2:

https://i.postimg.cc/2ymyvpkJ/20190721-150140.jpg

Local area up our way, I've been going up here for my whole life and I still forget how amazing it is sometimes.

https://i.postimg.cc/0Q9109Sp/20190721-151817.jpg

I definitely want to get the longer struts in, it's basically topped out just sitting there. You can feel it a lot on the rough roads. I should be getting the limit straps I need in the next few days for that.

As expected, gearing sucks, high range is pretty sluggish. And it has a hard time climbing in low, even stalls out occasionally, the sami case should be perfect with the 1.6/4.16.

Like I mentioned before, steering works really well even aired down, locked front in the rocks.

Speaking of lockers, this is my 2nd spartan and I love them. I had on in my FJ80 front and it almost felt open as far as steering but was always locked 100% when needed. Same as this one. The full carrier Detroit I put in my front 60 was not the case, even in 2 low, you could feel it binding and struggling to unlock all the time.

YotaAtieToo 07-22-2019 11:21 PM

One more pic from yesterday.

https://i.postimg.cc/fWJ21fF0/20190721-172215.jpg

Drove down to the river kinda near my house, the road going down is something between a dirt road and a trail. Figured I'd flex the suspension hard and see what it looks like :laughing:

https://i.postimg.cc/6QJzsVdB/20190722-180352.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/g0VsGwD8/20190722-180409.jpg

Good these shocks aren't 1/4" longer, that coil was this >< close to falling out.

https://i.postimg.cc/Bn1Nw7Ph/20190722-180440.jpg

One weird thing is that after parking there for a few minutes, it was really hot when I went to leave, like touching the red. I basically coasted down to the river. Coolant level looked good, but messing with the fan, the clutch seemed weak. I was expecting issues climbing back up the road from the river but it was perfectly in the middle the whole time, just like every other time I've drove it. :confused:

jr4x 07-24-2019 06:56 AM

That looks like a lot of fun.

Couple questions:

1) what diff gear ratio do you have?

2) are you relatively still satisfied with the budget you've spent on this so far? As in glad you did it for the dollars?

3) think if it was an automatic you'd be able to get away with it as is better?

2big bronco 07-24-2019 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44532928)
That looks like a lot of fun.

Couple questions:

1) what diff gear ratio do you have?

2) are you relatively still satisfied with the budget you've spent on this so far? As in glad you did it for the dollars?

3) think if it was an automatic you'd be able to get away with it as is better?


4.8something
It is an auto

YotaAtieToo 07-24-2019 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44532928)
That looks like a lot of fun.

Couple questions:

1) what diff gear ratio do you have?

2) are you relatively still satisfied with the budget you've spent on this so far? As in glad you did it for the dollars?

3) think if it was an automatic you'd be able to get away with it as is better?

1) 4.62/4.56s

2) Absolutely, I still remember you mentioning not putting too big of tire on your build, and others overshooting it. I probably could have done 30s and not had to go down the Toyota diff road. Part of the fun for me is doing something a little different. It does help that I only paid $200 it :laughing:

3) it came with a blown 5 spd and I swapped a 3spd auto in that I already had. If it was a more normal low range (~2.7) like most rigs. It would probably be tolerable. I don't know what suzuki was thinking with thier low range ratios. Samurai's should have came 4:1 stock.

jr4x 07-26-2019 09:37 AM

For all the aftermarket support these little rigs do have its crazy that diff gears aren't on the menu. I stuck with 30's only because I can't change hi range any further. I had a Sammy case in the last one which was cool but the front output shift fork failed. And it's harder to put a Sammy case in a manual trans 4x4.

That's why I talk about using a Ford 9" not because the strength is needed. But because it's the only American diff that has the ratios that I need. I'm trying to rearrange my life and I just gave away two parts kicks that had 5.13's in them.

YotaAtieToo 07-26-2019 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44535718)
For all the aftermarket support these little rigs do have its crazy that diff gears aren't on the menu. I stuck with 30's only because I can't change hi range any further. I had a Sammy case in the last one which was cool but the front output shift fork failed. And it's harder to put a Sammy case in a manual trans 4x4.

That's why I talk about using a Ford 9" not because the strength is needed. But because it's the only American diff that has the ratios that I need. I'm trying to rearrange my life and I just gave away two parts kicks that had 5.13's in them.

Why is it harder to put a Sami case in a manual trans rig? The spare track kick 4wd 5 spd I had was the same out put splines as the samurai tcase, just make a trans mount and slid the intermediate shaft on.

I totally understand your high range dilemma. Whole reason I'm going with the Sami case over just some 4.24 gears in the kick case.

I think high with the 4.16s gears is like a 1.6:1, so I'll be just a hair faster than I am now with the stock case. Then I'll have 4.16:1 for climbing and crawling.

2big bronco 07-27-2019 05:04 PM

So I'm still wondering, why not use toyota A arms? They should be free and then everything frame out is stronger. It would be super easy to clean up the frame and then weld new tabs wherever you want to locate the new arms. Then if you ever come up on a deal for "long travel" stuff it would bolt right on.

YotaAtieToo 07-27-2019 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44537416)
So I'm still wondering, why not use toyota A arms? They should be free and then everything frame out is stronger. It would be super easy to clean up the frame and then weld new tabs wherever you want to locate the new arms. Then if you ever come up on a deal for "long travel" stuff it would bolt right on.

I just don't see it, no coil mounts, need to adapt ball joint to suzuki knuckle, "just adding tabs to the frame" won't be that easy since both a arms are mounted to cross members and I want to go forward. Also, I think they would be too short, since I want to go to T100 cv's at the same time, which are 3.25" longer than mini truck cv's.

jr4x 07-29-2019 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44536438)
Why is it harder to put a Sami case in a manual trans rig? The spare track kick 4wd 5 spd I had was the same out put splines as the samurai tcase, just make a trans mount and slid the intermediate shaft on.

I totally understand your high range dilemma. Whole reason I'm going with the Sami case over just some 4.24 gears in the kick case.

I think high with the 4.16s gears is like a 1.6:1, so I'll be just a hair faster than I am now with the stock case. Then I'll have 4.16:1 for climbing and crawling.

The 4x4 5 speed output isn't supported to support the drive shaft, and I don't want to build a plate to block it off. On top of that, we broke the samurai t-case in the 8V powered 2 door, so I am hesitant that it would survive in the heavier 4 door is all. Kevin, the brother who broke it has it pulled from the car to see what's broken internally and is going to put the little green car back together for the kids.

YotaAtieToo 07-29-2019 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44540182)
The 4x4 5 speed output isn't supported to support the drive shaft, and I don't want to build a plate to block it off. On top of that, we broke the samurai t-case in the 8V powered 2 door, so I am hesitant that it would survive in the heavier 4 door is all. Kevin, the brother who broke it has it pulled from the car to see what's broken internally and is going to put the little green car back together for the kids.

That makes sense, I guess it would be easier/better to just get a 2wd 5spd.

What broke? Grinding noise? Front or rear output? Input?

Side thought. Will a ringr adapter work on the 2nd Gen bellhousing with the hydraulic clutch? I've toyed with the idea of putting my 60s under this thing with 40s. I think if I do that, I'd just go to 7.17s and use a ringR with a Toyota trans and my tcases.

For now, I'm trying to just stay on track, need to get the longer struts in and then once I get the driveline adapters in, the sami case.

jr4x 07-30-2019 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44540290)
That makes sense, I guess it would be easier/better to just get a 2wd 5spd.

What broke? Grinding noise? Front or rear output? Input?

Side thought. Will a ringr adapter work on the 2nd Gen bellhousing with the hydraulic clutch? I've toyed with the idea of putting my 60s under this thing with 40s. I think if I do that, I'd just go to 7.17s and use a ringR with a Toyota trans and my tcases.

For now, I'm trying to just stay on track, need to get the longer struts in and then once I get the driveline adapters in, the sami case.

Something in the front output broke, locking it into 4 low, the front output will not release even with the case removed from the vehicle. Rear will go into neutral but the interlock pin is still in there so it will only move between low and N

I just took mine over two mountain passes on Sunday, a couple 11,500 footers. High range on the highway portion between trails in the mountains was a drag. Some times 2nd gear and 30 mph was all I could do, I don't think gearing is going to help all that much. I'm wondering if a cheap turbo would fix my high range more than gears would.

YotaAtieToo 07-30-2019 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44540654)
Something in the front output broke, locking it into 4 low, the front output will not release even with the case removed from the vehicle. Rear will go into neutral but the interlock pin is still in there so it will only move between low and N

I just took mine over two mountain passes on Sunday, a couple 11,500 footers. High range on the highway portion between trails in the mountains was a drag. Some times 2nd gear and 30 mph was all I could do, I don't think gearing is going to help all that much. I'm wondering if a cheap turbo would fix my high range more than gears would.

Lower r&p would just put you in a higher gear. I can't imagine it would increase the speed much.

Turbo would solve all problems :grinpimp:

2big bronco 07-31-2019 12:10 PM

Keep your eye out for a 529 ifs front for me, preferably locked already. I heard rumor you may not be moving in the immediate future so you will have plenty of time to convert my front also :flipoff2:

86chevyjoe 07-31-2019 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44540290)
I've toyed with the idea of putting my 60s under this thing with 40s. I think if I do that, I'd just go to 7.17s ...

my vote. but i'd leave the 5 speed hydro zuk trans in and go 6.5:1 zuk case :smokin:

do it!!!!

YotaAtieToo 07-31-2019 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86chevyjoe (Post 44543092)
my vote. but i'd leave the 5 speed hydro zuk trans in and go 6.5:1 zuk case :smokin:

do it!!!!

7.17s with 1.7 high? :lmao:

YotaAtieToo 07-31-2019 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44542722)
Keep your eye out for a 529 ifs front for me, preferably locked already. I heard rumor you may not be moving in the immediate future so you will have plenty of time to convert my front also :flipoff2:

$350/hr like a lawyer :flipoff2:

YotaAtieToo 07-31-2019 08:41 PM

https://i.postimg.cc/0jT5dPDD/20190731-185841.jpg

Got one of the gm or whatever struts in. Looks like almost 3" more down travel at the wheel. Probably a little more once the strap stretches a bit. Also fixed the camber a little.

86chevyjoe 08-01-2019 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44543200)
7.17s with 1.7 high? :lmao:

.... w/ 40" tires :rolleyes:

i had the 2.3L aerio motor and i felt like it still needed more power w/ 5.13 gears, 1.7:1 high range and 37" tires. 6.5:1 low range was great but topped out pretty fast in the snow. it was awesome in the rocks

ideally, 2.0L, 5 speed, trackick to toyota 4.7 geared doubler w/ 7.17s

YotaAtieToo 08-01-2019 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86chevyjoe (Post 44544722)
.... w/ 40" tires :rolleyes:

i had the 2.3L aerio motor and i felt like it still needed more power w/ 5.13 gears, 1.7:1 high range and 37" tires. 6.5:1 low range was great but topped out pretty fast in the snow. it was awesome in the rocks

ideally, 2.0L, 5 speed, trackick to toyota 4.7 geared doubler w/ 7.17s

I never liked having just the 6.4 low in my 5 spd sami. However, with 7.17s and the 1.7 high, high range would probably be pretty usable for between obstacles.

And reverse always sucked in the snow.

I think I'd rather do the ringr to w56 than the welded coupler, can't get ahold of, have to send a money order, maybe it takes a few weeks to build track kick to toyota adapter. Plus the 5 spd is blown up anyway.

Anyway, trying to stay focused on what it is now. :flipoff2:

jr4x 08-02-2019 07:07 AM

:smokin: on those stuts. Do the CV's have enough misalignment for that much droop? Pretty sweet if they do. My 1st gen doesn't have that much droop and the CV is maxed out where it is.

YotaAtieToo 08-02-2019 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44545400)
:smokin: on those stuts. Do the CV's have enough misalignment for that much droop? Pretty sweet if they do. My 1st gen doesn't have that much droop and the CV is maxed out where it is.

Yes, I had to limit the struts a little because of the cv. I'm hoping that will help them live. I remember you saying that you couldn't keep struts alive and after feeling mine constantly topping out, I can see how they would give up quickly. I realize that they are still not the greatest, but these do seem beefier as well, not to mention they were dirt cheap, so why not.

I just got the other one in and went for a test drive. Rides even better when the front has down travel, imagine that :laughing:

Another stupid/crazy idea that keeps popping into my head is boat sides :laughing: I've alway liked the idea but never had anything with them, I figure with how little this thing is, it would make a huge difference. With out completely tearing the doors apart it looks like I could take 4-5" out of the doors themselves plus the rocker. What's sweet is that the body mounts look like they were almost meant for it.

jr4x 08-03-2019 07:58 AM

Yeah I pulled a few struts apart. The final straw was out hunting a secret spot in the high country. The ONLY person on the planet that would have been able to come save me, was in the tracker with me. That was when I switched to the upper A-arms. But mine still doesn't have any down travel, and is the worst part of the ride.

Low range has some struts I probably should have tried and might be getting tried out on the green one for the kids.

YotaAtieToo 08-03-2019 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44546782)
Yeah I pulled a few struts apart. The final straw was out hunting a secret spot in the high country. The ONLY person on the planet that would have been able to come save me, was in the tracker with me. That was when I switched to the upper A-arms. But mine still doesn't have any down travel, and is the worst part of the ride.

Low range has some struts I probably should have tried and might be getting tried out on the green one for the kids.

I believe the only company making bolt on longer struts is old man emu. I could be wrong, but I know I read that somewhere. The gm struts I got are dirt cheap and just require a little time with a die grinder to bolt in. You might be able to avoid the limit straps (although the were like $25 pr on Amazon and I just drilled on hole in the strut tower) by using strut spacers on top of the strut tower.

jr4x 08-03-2019 09:35 AM

Depending on how you review those. These are the ones I'm planning on for the kids.

Suzuki Sidekick, Vitara, X90, Tracker Extreme Duty Strut, 1.5" 38mm Longer than Stock (KSP-HDSTRUT)

YotaAtieToo 08-03-2019 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44546870)
Depending on how you review those. These are the ones I'm planning on for the kids.

Suzuki Sidekick, Vitara, X90, Tracker Extreme Duty Strut, 1.5" 38mm Longer than Stock (KSP-HDSTRUT)

Well I think I could have got 3-4 pairs of the ones I have for that price. :flipoff2:

Also, it says out of stock, ETA back in stock June 2019 :lmao:

They do look good though. I'm not sure how well these Buick struts will dampen. :laughing:

YotaAtieToo 08-03-2019 09:14 PM

Did another day trip, lots of rough roads, trails, some decent crawling.

Struts are awesome, for how little I have into the suspension, it rides amazing and soaks up a lot. The rear could definitely use better shock, but I think I paid like $20 bor both shocks :laughing:

YotaAtieToo 08-05-2019 06:33 PM

https://spaturbousa.com/products/spa...a-engine-tms01

Hmmmmm

2big bronco 08-05-2019 07:31 PM

The 3spd dont like shifting with no vacume

But I'm all for you doing it so I can learn at your expense

YotaAtieToo 08-06-2019 05:49 PM

As lame as it sounds, I would probably buy a kit if someone made one. I just don't know anything about tuning engines, especially one that wasn't designed for boost stock.

2big bronco 08-06-2019 07:37 PM

How similar Is the 2.0 in the early 2000's suzuki aero?

I know it is popular with the "tuner" crowd and id guess turno kits exist

YotaAtieToo 08-06-2019 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44552156)
How similar Is the 2.0 in the early 2000's suzuki aero?

I know it is popular with the "tuner" crowd and id guess turno kits exist

I think it's very similar, I know the 2.3 aero swap is the top dog zuk 4 cyl. Something like 160 hp?

TheBanjoman 08-07-2019 03:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44552246)
I think it's very similar, I know the 2.3 aero swap is the top dog zuk 4 cyl. Something like 160 hp?

2.3 (J23) motor is externally similar to 2.0 (j20) but uses crank sensor same as 1.8 (j18) motor, 2.0 intake,exhaust, motor mounts the same.

I have a J23 in my 98 Sidekick Sport and went from a J18 to a J23 by just swapping the long block and injector rail. I kept the J18 intake and all sensors
and the power difference, even when using all the J18 fuel delivery is very good. It would be better if I used the 2.3 intake and computer but that required a complete rewire. J23 motors were only made for a few years so they may be harder to come by.

YotaAtieToo 08-12-2019 07:34 PM

Well I had some time off and decided to try and smog this turd. Went something like this:

Tow down the hill to the closest place that will do walk ins (45 mins)

They say it passed the sniffer but the downstream o2 monitor isnt ready (wtf, I've put over 100 miles on it since the battery was last unhooked) he says "might need to do 60 mph for a few minutes"

Drive home, unload, swap to stock tires and drive this pos back down :laughing:

Still not ready "some times they want to see 55 then 30 then back to 55" try googling it.

https://m.smogtips.com/OnlineForumQu...tors-Not-Ready end up driving around the farm roads for like 90 mins.

Get back and it's ready! :D aaaaaaaaaand thier smog machine is down :mad3:

On a completely different note, I was looking at bumpers for our 3rd gen 4runner and with even the kits being $5-600 for just a front I said fuck it and ordered a bunch of tools to make my own, even better bumpers and sliders, plus whatever else I want. Model 32 bender with 1 3/4, 1 1/2 and 1" dies. Versanotcher and drill press speed reduction from Rouge fab. Press brake kit, air over hydro kit for bender and dimple die kit for knockout punch set sizes from swag 4x4. Then went to good old harbor freight and got the ram for the bender, the knock out set and the press for the brake. Thinking about ordering a cheapo plas/tig/stick machine on Amazon also.

So hopefully I can make some baller stuff for this and the 4runner. I have a feeling I might be looking for semi flat body panels on the tracker to dimple die :laughing:

YotaAtieToo 08-15-2019 11:12 PM

Got this turd bucket smogged, registered and insured today :laughing:

2big bronco 08-16-2019 12:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44565250)
Got this turd bucket smogged, registered and insured today :laughing:

Sweet, I'm going to Attempt to smog mine tommorow.

YotaAtieToo 08-16-2019 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44565304)
Sweet, I'm going to Attempt to smog mine tommorow.

Well by God, if you know the battery was disconnected or dead anywhere in the last year, make sure you go through all the drive cycles :flipoff2:

2big bronco 08-16-2019 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44565570)
Well by God, if you know the battery was disconnected or dead anywhere in the last year, make sure you go through all the drive cycles :flipoff2:


Same old batterey that's always been in it. I've driven the turd 13000 miles in the last year and a half so hopefully it has all the drive cycles plus some. I really hope they just to the plug in smog thing and dont use a sniffer because it definitely puts out some blue smoke when you rev it.



Btw a new timing chain gave mine quite a bit of power.

2big bronco 08-16-2019 03:37 PM

Well I'm pretty sure you jinxed me. My catalytic converter monitor is not set... or running, and I probably need to drive it more

YotaAtieToo 08-16-2019 06:51 PM

What year is yours? Apparently 2000+ is just plug in, mine is a 99 so it gets both.

The cat monitor was my problem also. Follow the link for the procedure it wants to see. Which probably never happens in normal driving?

You really put 13k miles on yours? Or was that an accidental extra zero?

2big bronco 08-17-2019 08:46 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44566324)
What year is yours? Apparently 2000+ is just plug in, mine is a 99 so it gets both.

The cat monitor was my problem also. Follow the link for the procedure it wants to see. Which probably never happens in normal driving?

You really put 13k miles on yours? Or was that an accidental extra zero?


Mine is a 2000.


What link?


And yes, I drive the shit out of it. It's pretty much my dd other then my truck I have to drive to work.

2big bronco 08-17-2019 08:51 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I found this one at pick n pull yesterday. Probably the cleanest one I've seen. Complete with fake leather door pannels and power windows. I kept looking at it but couldnt come up with anything I actually needed

YotaAtieToo 08-17-2019 09:11 AM

Should have grabbed the doors.

YotaAtieToo 08-17-2019 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44566750)


What link?

.

:D

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44560486)
https://m.smogtips.com/OnlineForumQu...tors-Not-Ready end up driving around the farm roads for like 90 mins.


2big bronco 08-17-2019 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44566788)
:D

That's gotta be a fucking joke just to see who does it.... and then they say it may take 5x. Fml

YotaAtieToo 08-20-2019 07:55 PM

Just go down to the one for the cat and do that, it's almost impossible, unless you want to get ran off the freeway. But I managed it on some farm roads :laughing:

Well I ran into a buddy of mine who I haven't seen in a long time. He was into these stupid track kicks before anyone I know. Had one on 1 tons and 47s at one point :laughing: I asked him if he still was into suzuki stuff and if he was interested in a decent shape 2 door. He said he has been looking for a good deal forever and has a 2000 4 door with no motor/trans/tcase that he would trade..

Extra body parts and rear axle shafts, plus whatever else I can think of, then when I'm done, the scrap yard should take it since it has no engine.

YotaAtieToo 08-28-2019 10:45 PM

Good thing you switched doors, looks so much nicer now :flipoff2:

2big bronco 08-29-2019 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44581718)
Good thing you switched doors, looks so much nicer now :flipoff2:

They arnt all rusted out, smashed on the bottom, the drivers window rolls up easily, and they have door handles. So I got that going for me

YotaAtieToo 08-29-2019 10:14 PM

I'm offended now

They are much more smashed now :laughing:

2big bronco 08-30-2019 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44583262)
I'm offended now

They are much more smashed now :laughing:

As they should be

YotaAtieToo 08-31-2019 07:54 PM

Started on the sami case swap. First thing was to get the transmission supported. I was able to use the stock mount from the 1st Gen tcase with a little modification. Slotted one hole and sanded some ridges off. Didn't get a great pic, but it almost bolted up to my modified stock crossmember, I just cut the flat bar off and moved a little forward and to the passenger side. I plan on replacing this with something a little beefier when I build the full belly pan skid.

https://i.postimg.cc/v89KtNZC/20190831-152335.jpg

At first I was going to try to use the stock style mounts on the mighty Kong, but the driver side mount would have been inside the cab :homer: I decided to just build a full width crossmember off the bottom of the MK and brace it up and out to the wings.

This is the start of the passenger side, had to test out the dimple dies :laughing:

https://i.postimg.cc/qvmD7f16/20190831-181717.jpg

2big bronco 09-05-2019 09:23 PM

Wheres the updates

YotaAtieToo 09-05-2019 10:06 PM

Funny you mention that, I was actually just out there.

Here is what I came up for a crossmember. :confused:

https://i.postimg.cc/x8Lsnrjc/20190905-190142.jpg

Roughly mocked up under there. Exhaust will need a little modification, but not much.

https://i.postimg.cc/cJjT31rv/20190905-204343.jpg

Driveline angle seems steeper to the driver side than I remember when I took the measurements :laughing: what do you guys think? Too much? It's not going to be a highway cruiser, but in low range it may see the same rpm. I my be able to shift the trans over a little bit to help, but not much. Moving the tcase would mean some major floor work.

https://i.postimg.cc/VstZjt9m/20190905-203438.jpg

Now that I think about it, it's just roughed under there. It could be cocked, making it look worse than it is.

YotaAtieToo 09-08-2019 08:42 PM

Well I got a lot done today, didn't take a single picture though because I was trying to keep rolling.

I ended up cutting the exhaust right after the o2 and right before the muffler. Right after the o2 it dropped down and then went straight into the muffler, plan is to flip it so it stays high until right before the muffler.

Turns out the front drive line from my burnt 4runner is going to work in the rear. It's a little short so I used the same spacer I had as an adapter (same bolt pattern, but very slightly smaller pilot.

Hopefully I can drive it tomorrow.

YotaAtieToo 09-09-2019 08:38 PM

Well it's a fail, vibrates and makes a horrible sound.

jr4x 09-10-2019 07:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44597090)
Well it's a fail, vibrates and makes a horrible sound.

Driveline only or got t-case issues?

jr4x 09-10-2019 07:52 AM

In all you guy's parts piles do either of you (2big bronco) have a grill or left front fender for a first gen track/kick? I'd like a grill from say a 95, need a fender from a 96+.

2big bronco 09-10-2019 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44597500)
In all you guy's parts piles do either of you (2big bronco) have a grill or left front fender for a first gen track/kick? I'd like a grill from say a 95, need a fender from a 96+.

I have some 89 parts....

YotaAtieToo 09-10-2019 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44597494)
Driveline only or got t-case issues?

Driveline. Tcase is good, I actually drove the sami it was in on a snow run last winter.

Just got in a hurry, it shouldn't be too hard to move it about 3" to the passenger side.

YotaAtieToo 09-10-2019 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44597500)
In all you guy's parts piles do either of you (2big bronco) have a grill or left front fender for a first gen track/kick? I'd like a grill from say a 95, need a fender from a 96+.

Not sure how to tell what year a fender is, but the guy I'm supposed to trade with says he has a bunch of extra track kick parts.

Are you going to be in CA any time soon?

Shane, your ecu is still on my shelf, it won't go with the sidekick. If you need it, I'll get it to you asap.

jr4x 09-11-2019 11:58 AM

I'm coming to ridgecrest this weekend. Then I'll be in Reno in october. Got friends coming from paradise to one or both of those events.

I didn't think there was a difference in the body parts from 89 to 98. But my white one is a 96 with a left front fender off and older one and it doesn't line up right, body lines not even the same. Looks like 89 to 95 are one, then 96 97 and 98 were a little different. The grill on the 96 up looks like crap to, they made it different just to be different and I want the older style.

I'm pre-running ridgecrest in the tracker thursday and friday.

2big bronco 09-11-2019 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44598764)

Shane, your ecu is still on my shelf, it won't go with the sidekick. If you need it, I'll get it to you asap.

I dont need it any time soon but now that I know that it wasnt the problem with my samurai it makes me want to try to get it running again.

YotaAtieToo 09-11-2019 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44599516)
I'm coming to ridgecrest this weekend. Then I'll be in Reno in october. Got friends coming from paradise to one or both of those events.

I didn't think there was a difference in the body parts from 89 to 98. But my white one is a 96 with a left front fender off and older one and it doesn't line up right, body lines not even the same. Looks like 89 to 95 are one, then 96 97 and 98 were a little different. The grill on the 96 up looks like crap to, they made it different just to be different and I want the older style.

I'm pre-running ridgecrest in the tracker thursday and friday.

Who do you know in paradise? Im like 4 mins from paradise.

YotaAtieToo 09-11-2019 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44599994)
I dont need it any time soon but now that I know that it wasnt the problem with my samurai it makes me want to try to get it running again.

OK, I'll get it sent out soon.

86chevyjoe 09-12-2019 11:49 AM

i see an old school MTR tire in your recent pics....

YotaAtieToo 09-12-2019 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86chevyjoe (Post 44601038)
i see an old school MTR tire in your recent pics....

Wilson gave them to me, they came on his sami. I got it registered so I figured I'd try them out on the last trip up with no trailer. The problem is that they're ~2.5" backspacing and still need the 1" spacer in the front. :barf: so they rub really really bad in the front.

lwb86 09-13-2019 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44597090)
Well it's a fail, vibrates and makes a horrible sound.

just thought change those ujoints in the stub shaft they look like the originals and have most likely operate at a specific angle forever and probably half siezed

as long as the output and input flange angles are the same you should be vibration free

jr4x 09-16-2019 05:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44600234)
Who do you know in paradise? Im like 4 mins from paradise.

Mike Ladd, and Jeremy Wilson

YotaAtieToo 09-17-2019 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44605118)
Mike Ladd, and Jeremy Wilson

Ah, I know them both. Jeremy pretty well.

jr4x 09-18-2019 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44607714)
Ah, I know them both. Jeremy pretty well.

I feel terrible, I sold stuff to both of them right before the fire, all of which burned up in the fire. :(

I sold some samurai stuff to Jeremy but it wasn't that much money. Sold a CRD 60 to Mike for $2000 bucks and it burned up with his race car. :(:(:(

YotaAtieToo 09-18-2019 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44608164)
I feel terrible, I sold stuff to both of them right before the fire, all of which burned up in the fire. :(

I sold some samurai stuff to Jeremy but it wasn't that much money. Sold a CRD 60 to Mike for $2000 bucks and it burned up with his race car. :(:(:(

Jeremy had borrowed a samurai case from me and it burned up, but it would have burned up at my house too. Little truck parts are pretty low on the list when you loose everything.

jr4x 09-19-2019 06:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44609274)
Jeremy had borrowed a samurai case from me and it burned up, but it would have burned up at my house too. Little truck parts are pretty low on the list when you loose everything.

I can't even imagine what that must have been like. Not only everything you had gone, but everything anyone around you had as well. Mike has a pretty good attitude about, better than I ever could. He says many people didn't fair out nearly as good as he did.

YotaAtieToo 09-19-2019 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr4x (Post 44609502)
I can't even imagine what that must have been like. Not only everything you had gone, but everything anyone around you had as well. Mike has a pretty good attitude about, better than I ever could. He says many people didn't fair out nearly as good as he did.

I think the whole town being gone was just as difficult to deal with, if not more, than loosing our house and belongings. Such a sudden end to so many things. Very sad, but in the end, I feel fortunate, the real important things to me, my family and friends, are all safe. Many souls were not as fortunate.

Definitely gives you a different perspective on material things.

2big bronco 10-04-2019 06:53 PM

You finish the thing yet? Give your oldest the sawzall and tell him to get with it.

YotaAtieToo 10-13-2019 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44630436)
You finish the thing yet? Give your oldest the sawzall and tell him to get with it.

Finished? No, but either way, it's going to Fordyce this weekend. I need to shorten a drives haft for the front and I'd like to build some type of skid plate for the front diff since the cover is aluminum.

Just been crazy busy trying to get the place ready for a kids party. :laughing:

2big bronco 10-20-2019 10:55 PM

Here for the fordyce report and pics

gregj50 10-21-2019 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44652398)
Here for the fordyce report and pics



Oh yeaaaaaa!!!!!!!
Bring on the pics and vids!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

YotaAtieToo 10-21-2019 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44652398)
Here for the fordyce report and pics

Overall it was a great trip. Sideshit (dubbed this trip) was a little bit of a flop. It was definitely making everyone laugh the whole time, but I fucked both cv's pretty quickly. I think I'm still over extending them. Wilson said the tire was turned extremely sharp the first time. So steering stops might help.

The bushing was siezed to the shaft when I went to change it, which means the spindle is probably fucked as well.

Exhaust is pretty fucked, gas tank is pretty fucked, pass rear coil fell out twice :homer:, gearing was night and day better than stock, but not near enough.

Whats wierd though is the intermediate shaft wasn't vibrating on the way out :confused:

YotaAtieToo 10-21-2019 10:19 AM

On a side note, my mom has been cleaning up her yard and asked me about a samurai tub that I left there like 15 years ago and forgot about. :laughing: I'm toying with the idea of tossing it on this frame....

paradisePWoffrd 10-21-2019 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44652734)
On a side note, my mom has been cleaning up her yard and asked me about a samurai tub that I left there like 15 years ago and forgot about. :laughing: I'm toying with the idea of tossing it on this frame....

I think this rig is a zuk tub on kick frame:

https://www.rpm4x4.com/images/blake-gilbert-1-06.JPG

YotaAtieToo 10-21-2019 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paradisePWoffrd (Post 44652984)
I think this rig is a zuk tub on kick frame:

Not too far off what I pictured.

I was thinking shorten the frame a little. Either move the drivetrain back or front end forward in the same process.

Maybe a little more lift and make it be able to fit 35-37s but not look completely retarded on the 32s.

Minimal everything. No dash, ect.

2big bronco 10-21-2019 07:50 PM

I e 5hought a lot about doing that with my vitara. I'll probably lengthen the samurai body a bit and make it more of a crewcab.

YotaAtieToo 10-21-2019 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44653488)
I e 5hought a lot about doing that with my vitara. I'll probably lengthen the samurai body a bit and make it more of a crewcab.

See, I think the wheelbase is waaaay to long for small tires.

2big bronco 10-22-2019 03:07 AM

But 35s would fix that right up.


Let me know if you want to let your tub go really cheap

YotaAtieToo 10-28-2019 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44653836)
But 35s would fix that right up.


Let me know if you want to let your tub go really cheap

Not against selling it, but I think I want to hang on to it for now. I can't decide if I want to do the body swap on this chassis and 35s or say fuck it and throw my 60s under it. :laughing:

Are you still interested in my 4:1 case?

2big bronco 10-29-2019 02:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44663910)
Not against selling it, but I think I want to hang on to it for now. I can't decide if I want to do the body swap on this chassis and 35s or say fuck it and throw my 60s under it. :laughing:

Are you still interested in my 4:1 case?

Yeah or maybe you want to trade sidekicks one way or another and start over with a cleaner stocker?

YotaAtieToo 10-29-2019 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44664038)
Yeah or maybe you want to trade sidekicks one way or another and start over with a cleaner stocker?

That thought crossed my mind.

The only problem is that I still want some of the parts for a future kid buggy. Tires, tcase, Trans, ect. Then future smogs are out the window with no speedo.

I would like to go to toy cases if I go 60s. I emailed trail Tough, and I could go back to a 5 spd using a Toyota w56, but I would have to find some unicorn 98 sport bellhousing. Or convert to cable.

So 8 figured just switch to 6.4s or 6.5s and go 7.17s.

paradisePWoffrd 10-29-2019 01:03 PM

if you are wanting to go 60s, you might look into swapping a montero trans. https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/suzu...l#post44637594

He did it and was able to run a d300 behind it. It would also open up the door for other tcase options.

YotaAtieToo 10-29-2019 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paradisePWoffrd (Post 44664614)
if you are wanting to go 60s, you might look into swapping a montero trans. https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/suzu...l#post44637594

He did it and was able to run a d300 behind it. It would also open up the door for other tcase options.

I remember reading something like that. Right now, 4.16:1 is not enough with 4.62s and 32s, I don't think the 7.17s alone will be enough with 40-42s. It's my first real auto experience offroad, so maybe I'm missing something. I also probably have 1000 lbs or more over that Sami, so that could be it.

I realize that I could do any number of round 6 tcases or doublers. The reason for wanting to use Toyota cases is I have a pair of duals with 23 spline 4.7 rear, and chromo outputs.

paradisePWoffrd 10-31-2019 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44665038)
I remember reading something like that. Right now, 4.16:1 is not enough with 4.62s and 32s, I don't think the 7.17s alone will be enough with 40-42s. It's my first real auto experience offroad, so maybe I'm missing something. I also probably have 1000 lbs or more over that Sami, so that could be it.

I realize that I could do any number of round 6 tcases or doublers. The reason for wanting to use Toyota cases is I have a pair of duals with 23 spline 4.7 rear, and chromo outputs.

I think the Montero or Volvo trans might be your answer.

Here is a link where someone build an adapter to put a 23spline toyota case behind the volvo trans: https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/suzu...ml#post8978532

I would think it could be adapted for the Montero trans as well, maybe easier.

86chevyjoe 10-31-2019 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44664280)
That thought crossed my mind.

The only problem is that I still want some of the parts for a future kid buggy. Tires, tcase, Trans, ect. Then future smogs are out the window with no speedo.

I would like to go to toy cases if I go 60s. I emailed trail Tough, and I could go back to a 5 spd using a Toyota w56, but I would have to find some unicorn 98 sport bellhousing. Or convert to cable.

So 8 figured just switch to 6.4s or 6.5s and go 7.17s.

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44665038)
I remember reading something like that. Right now, 4.16:1 is not enough with 4.62s and 32s, I don't think the 7.17s alone will be enough with 40-42s. It's my first real auto experience offroad, so maybe I'm missing something. I also probably have 1000 lbs or more over that Sami, so that could be it.

I realize that I could do any number of round 6 tcases or doublers. The reason for wanting to use Toyota cases is I have a pair of duals with 23 spline 4.7 rear, and chromo outputs.

You know my previous set up on my Jeep.

my opinion, put 60s w/ 40" tires under it! Try out the 6.5:1 gears and see how you like it. if you decide you don't like it, sell me the Toyota underdrive case and adapter (I'm serious, I will buy it) and put a tracker/vitara hydraulic 5 speed behind your 2.0L w/ tracker/vitara underdrive and your 4.7:1 Toyota case behind that.

I think a 5 speed trans is mandatory behind a 4 banger unless your only rock crawling, but you may like the 3 speed/6.5:1/7/17 combo :smokin:

I know you've said before you're skeptical of Keith's zuk/Toyota and zuk/D300 doublers, but I and many other guys can assure you he builds a legit product that works great. if you were on Facebook you could see for yourself lol.

YotaAtieToo 10-31-2019 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paradisePWoffrd (Post 44667956)
I think the Montero or Volvo trans might be your answer.

Here is a link where someone build an adapter to put a 23spline toyota case behind the volvo trans: https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/suzu...ml#post8978532

I would think it could be adapted for the Montero trans as well, maybe easier.

I have thought about making a track kick to Toyota case adapter. It really wouldn't be terribly hard, time is the biggest issue for me.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86chevyjoe (Post 44667990)
You know my previous set up on my Jeep.

my opinion, put 60s w/ 40" tires under it! Try out the 6.5:1 gears and see how you like it. if you decide you don't like it, sell me the Toyota underdrive case and adapter (I'm serious, I will buy it) and put a tracker/vitara hydraulic 5 speed behind your 2.0L w/ tracker/vitara underdrive and your 4.7:1 Toyota case behind that.

I think a 5 speed trans is mandatory behind a 4 banger unless your only rock crawling, but you may like the 3 speed/6.5:1/7/17 combo :smokin:

I know you've said before you're skeptical of Keith's zuk/Toyota and zuk/D300 doublers, but I and many other guys can assure you he builds a legit product that works great. if you were on Facebook you could see for yourself lol.

I may just try the auto and 6.xx gears and see how it works. The zuk 5spd I have is blown up and finding another one is probably next to impossible. That and unsupported welded coupler just doesn't sit well with me. I'd much rather just go to a Toyota trans and tcases.

Not to mention the Toyota first gear is lower (3.65 vs 3.95) and the tcase is also lower (1.8 vs 2.28) which doesn't sound like much until you multiply it out and get 221:1 vs 303:1.

I do agree that the 5spd is probably better with a 4cyl though.

2big bronco 11-01-2019 01:19 AM

Random thought while I'm here at work in the middle of the night....



You mentioned no speedo with the samurai case.... does the 2.0 pull the signal for the timing advance from the speedometer similar to the 1.6?

YotaAtieToo 11-01-2019 05:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44668900)
Random thought while I'm here at work in the middle of the night....



You mentioned no speedo with the samurai case.... does the 2.0 pull the signal for the timing advance from the speedometer similar to the 1.6?

I'm not sure, I was told I didn't need a speedo, can't remember where though

2big bronco 11-01-2019 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo (Post 44668958)
I'm not sure, I was told I didn't need a speedo, can't remember where though

It was just a random thought when you mentioned it still being sluggish with the new case. I figure you may be geared slightly lower then me and mine feels like it gets it pretty good off the line. I also got a noticable bump in power with the new timing chain. The guids were almost non existant and the chain was way stretched.


Oh and buy my diesel yota. :flipoff2:

YotaAtieToo 11-01-2019 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2big bronco (Post 44668982)
It was just a random thought when you mentioned it still being sluggish with the new case. I figure you may be geared slightly lower then me and mine feels like it gets it pretty good off the line. I also got a noticable bump in power with the new timing chain. The guids were almost non existant and the chain was way stretched.


Oh and buy my diesel yota. :flipoff2:

I don't think it's sluggish, just not great for hardcore crawling. well actually, crawling isn't bad, but when you stab it to bump up something it just doesn't want to go as good as I'd like. there was also a few time it would just stall against the converter when somewhat bound.to be fair, the exhaust was smashed quickly and I never got under there to look at how bad it was.

Did you get some books in the mail? I just want to make sure I have the right address before I send out that ecu. I went to 3 places trying to get flat rate boxes. Apparently you need power to let people grab boxes off of a shelf :rolleyes:

904_runner 11-01-2019 02:26 PM

You didn’t post any pictures from Fordyce! :flipoff2:

2big bronco 11-28-2019 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 904_runner (Post 44669770)
You didn’t post any pictures from Fordyce! :flipoff2:

I dont think it ever happened


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