Can I bolt steering tie rod from above the steering arms? - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 04-05-2019, 11:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Can I bolt steering tie rod from above the steering arms?

I'm designing the suspension geometry for my buggy build. It will use Samurai axles and three link at the front.

Is there anything to stop me mounting the steering tie rod from above the steering arms on the knuckles? That would lift the tie rod by 60mm and let me decrease my panhard bar angle.



I'll be using a dropped pitman arm as well.
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Old 04-06-2019, 07:18 AM   #2 (permalink)
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tapered hole and bolt on tie rods, fits one way. most people use heim joints and strait bolt after drilling the hole out.
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Old 04-06-2019, 07:51 AM   #3 (permalink)
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tapered hole and bolt on tie rods, fits one way. most people use heim joints and strait bolt after drilling the hole out.
Thanks. I suspected the holes are taper.
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Old 04-06-2019, 05:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Your photo is of a Jimny knuckle, not Samurai. Just worth mentioning if you are, in fact, working with a Jimny or Samurai. Obviously the US market didn't get the Jimny.

It's hard to imagine the application but raising the panhard has nothing to do with raising the tie rod, it's only the angular relationship between the drag link and tie rod that's important. On a Jimny (As pictured) the tie rod is behind the axle so that's the drag link. Raising the panhard will raise the roll centre which is probably no bad thing for a buggy.

Raising the tie rod and running a drop pitman arm is likely to cause massive interference and place the pitman arm below the tie rod on compression, making it very vulnerable.
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Old 04-06-2019, 07:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Funny this came up, I was thinking about flipping the tre's on my knuckles on my 99 tracker.

Anyone know what taper suzuki uses?
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Old 04-07-2019, 12:29 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Gwagensteve View Post
Your photo is of a Jimny knuckle, not Samurai. Just worth mentioning if you are, in fact, working with a Jimny or Samurai. Obviously the US market didn't get the Jimny.

It's hard to imagine the application but raising the panhard has nothing to do with raising the tie rod, it's only the angular relationship between the drag link and tie rod that's important. On a Jimny (As pictured) the tie rod is behind the axle so that's the drag link. Raising the panhard will raise the roll centre which is probably no bad thing for a buggy.

Raising the tie rod and running a drop pitman arm is likely to cause massive interference and place the pitman arm below the tie rod on compression, making it very vulnerable.
Thanks, I hadn't considered the roll centre changing. I'll need to look at that next.

The plan was to raise the tie rod. The drag link is attached to the tie rod so raising the tie rod decreases the angle of the drag link. As the panhard needs to follow the drag link angle that would allow me to decrease the panhard angle.

As for interference, that's what I'm battling at the moment, trying to place everything so it doesn't interfere. If you know of any builds that did this successfully then let me know. I'm using Samurai chassis and axles with three link suspension. The build is just for fun, a kind of mini rock crawler-trials hybrid, not competitive, so doesn't need to be perfect, but I also don't want it to be poorly done.

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Raising the tie rod and running a drop pitman arm is likely to cause massive interference and place the pitman arm below the tie rod on compression, making it very vulnerable.
Sure. But having a steep panhard angle also causes problems.
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Old 04-07-2019, 12:31 AM   #7 (permalink)
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How would you do that, without drilling out the taper and changing your tie rod ends? I could measure the taper for you if you're stuck as I have some spares lying around.
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Old 04-07-2019, 04:45 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Drill, taper, change entire steering over to Toyota fj80 tie rod ends that all the Toyota guys run on their steering setups. They sell Toyota taper reamers for this purpose. I bought Toyota high steer kit. But I’m running all Toyota stuff... and I have no clue if the Jimny is in fact exactly the same steering components as samurai in the US
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Old 04-07-2019, 05:01 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Drill, taper, change entire steering over to Toyota fj80 tie rod ends that all the Toyota guys run on their steering setups. They sell Toyota taper reamers for this purpose. I bought Toyota high steer kit. But Iím running all Toyota stuff... and I have no clue if the Jimny is in fact exactly the same steering components as samurai in the US
They're different, the jimny has a HP front diff, the tie rod behind the axle and steering link in front. They're also coils with radius arms instead of leaves.
If there's enough meat on the steering arm then your idea FTW. I'm pretty sure even the mini truck (S/A Hilux for those of us in the UK) tre's are bigger than the stock jimny stuff if the FJ80 stuff is too big.
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Old 04-10-2019, 08:43 AM   #10 (permalink)
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It can be done with either heims, or, drill the hole out with a 9/16" drill bit, then get a toyota fj80 size reamer and go from the top down. The samurai taper is small enough that even after drilling it out to 9/16", you can still taper the other way with the fj80 taper, and still have a full taper on it. That's how I did my mercedes high steer arm, and it's worked out perfect so far.
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Old 04-23-2019, 09:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Diesel_Zuk View Post
It can be done with either heims, or, drill the hole out with a 9/16" drill bit, then get a toyota fj80 size reamer and go from the top down. The samurai taper is small enough that even after drilling it out to 9/16", you can still taper the other way with the fj80 taper, and still have a full taper on it. That's how I did my mercedes high steer arm, and it's worked out perfect so far.

I like that method. Can you post a picture DZ?
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Old 04-24-2019, 08:06 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I like that method. Can you post a picture DZ?
I kept my tie rod underneath. I had to, due to my leaf springs, but in theory, a guy who is running a link setup, could do the tie rod over the top of the knuckles. Here's some pics of my mercedes setup. From factory, the mercedes arm has the tie rod end come up from the bottom. I just drilled out to 9/16, then ran the fj80 reamer down from the top. It's worked awesome so far.





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