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Old 02-21-2020, 02:53 AM   #26 (permalink)
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You also stated you would like to step up to 33s possibly if that is the case I would recommend getting a set of rear springs for the front.

Installing them in the front with the rear hanger mounting hole moved back will give you a longer spring that will give a smoother ride while moving the front axle forward just over a inch. This way less firewall side of the wheel well will need to be clearanced The steering wonít need to be modified but you may have to either build new front shock towers or change the location where they mount in the front axle


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Old 02-21-2020, 06:59 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Perfect. Thank you. Just what I wanted to know. I will most likely go this route.

So as you said a proper high steer. I did some research and it says to use Mercedes arms. I did see some other post that it's a poor way to do it. Can you point me in a direction to go or some threads to look up on the proper setup.
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Old 02-21-2020, 07:30 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Trail gear or trail tough will have the complete steering upgrade you need


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Old 02-21-2020, 08:45 AM   #29 (permalink)
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No

Go spring under, flat old used leaf springs suck. You won't need high steer for spring under. Definitely don't buy shit rancho springs. Go old man emu, trail Tough or even trail gear.
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Old 02-21-2020, 10:04 AM   #30 (permalink)
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I already planned to go spring under. New perches, and two sets of rear springs. How's that sound. Replace the worn tie rods with stock and run it.
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Old 02-21-2020, 10:41 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Also I'm from the powerstroke world and they do rsk on the obs trucks. I see a kit that would move the front shackles to the rear. Is that a good move? I know it improved the ride on the fords but I'm not sure about the sami
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Old 02-21-2020, 11:23 AM   #32 (permalink)
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I already planned to go spring under. New perches, and two sets of rear springs. How's that sound. Replace the worn tie rods with stock and run it.
2 pairs of rear lift springs may not be a bad idea.

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Also I'm from the powerstroke world and they do rsk on the obs trucks. I see a kit that would move the front shackles to the rear. Is that a good move? I know it improved the ride on the fords but I'm not sure about the sami
I have a 97 F350 also, moving the shackles from the front to the back doesn't change the ride, that just internet hype. The ride improvement comes from the different springs or just getting the spring away from the bump stop. My F350 has 99-04 front leafs with the shackle still in the front and it rides as good as a super duty.

The only benefit on the Sami is to get keep the shackle from hitting rocks in the front. The downside is you will screw the caster or gain a lot of lift, and will need a long slip driveshaft. Properly set up front shackles will actually wheel better in my opinion. My 4runner SAS had front shackles and I loved it.
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Old 02-21-2020, 11:24 AM   #33 (permalink)
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I have installed kits on customers samurais that move the shackle to the back. To me it didnít seem to make a huge difference in ride but it may have been the particular kit . and you do lose a bit of your approach angle with the hangers out front

There was a few builds on here where people had done their own swap and it looked like it worked better


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Old 02-21-2020, 11:45 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Stock Yota rear springs up front, hell, possibly even Yota front springs in the rear. Normal length boomerang shackles. Push box forward and get pitman arm turned down as far as possible. High steer with hydro assist. Weld the rear and go wheeling until you break something.

When the front end breaks, swap in the Toyota front axle you've been building in the shed with your spare change. RCVs, RCV hub gears, High steer, and Surplus Center hydro. 6 shooters.

When that sami breaks in half. Swap axles into something else.
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Old 02-21-2020, 02:18 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Shackle reversal is pointless and makes tire clearance harder to achieve as the axle moves back towards the firewall on compression.

RUF is a very worthwhile mod but is complex to get right and requires fabrication. It's also a job that suffers from scope creep so the next thing you know you have the whole front of the car apart chasing the 1% gains.

Start with matching the build to the stated task - a quality spring and shock is all that's required to do what you've described. At that point you'll have a baseline where you won't be chasing faults with other people's work and you won't be juggling a heap of aftermarket parts.

If you find where you are trying to go exceeds the capability of the vehicle, then start to looks at mods like RUF. I've done RUF on a a heap of Samurai's. It's a great modification, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's the right solution for you.

I know this is a site that's focussed towards fabrication and modifications, but it can make for some pretty tone deaf recommendations. A Samurai doesn't need 33's, a spoa or anything much at all to drive mild trails. All the overbuilding creates a compromised car that's poor at it's primary task. The more modified a car is, the less it's driven, the worse it drives and the more time the owner spends on it. Alternatively, the owner lowers their expectations because they legitimtely forget how nice their close-to-stock car was to drive once they've built it.
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Old 02-21-2020, 02:57 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Stock Yota rear springs up front, hell, possibly even Yota front springs in the rear. Normal length boomerang shackles. Push box forward and get pitman arm turned down as far as possible. High steer with hydro assist. Weld the rear and go wheeling until you break something.

When the front end breaks, swap in the Toyota front axle you've been building in the shed with your spare change. RCVs, RCV hub gears, High steer, and Surplus Center hydro. 6 shooters.

When that sami breaks in half. Swap axles into something else.


Sounds like a great plan for a hunting rig on 31s.
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Old 02-21-2020, 05:55 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Shackle in the rear puts the spring in tension and you have a lot less of chance of bending the main leaf if you run into something. Other than that shock tuning will make more of a difference to ride quality.
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Old 02-21-2020, 06:04 PM   #38 (permalink)
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The flip side of that is because there's no provision for a shackle at the rear of the spring, the required bracketry and shackle lowers the rear of the spring, requiring the front of the spring to be lowered to maintain caster, adding unnecessary lift and resulting in a pair of fangs hanging down at the front.

I built a shackle reversal on my Samurai ~1997. It improved high speed ride and tracking but exacerbated tire fitment issues, messed up approach angle, and offered no advantage off road. The cars with the Calmini SR aren't any better in this regard.
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Old 02-24-2020, 05:30 AM   #39 (permalink)
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The flip side of that is because there's no provision for a shackle at the rear of the spring, the required bracketry and shackle lowers the rear of the spring, requiring the front of the spring to be lowered to maintain caster, adding unnecessary lift and resulting in a pair of fangs hanging down at the front.

I built a shackle reversal on my Samurai ~1997. It improved high speed ride and tracking but exacerbated tire fitment issues, messed up approach angle, and offered no advantage off road. The cars with the Calmini SR aren't any better in this regard.
Caster is fine if you drill and mount shackles through the frame. I'm an advocate of doing that and moving axle forward using springs that aren't drilled in the center, like a Toy Rear.
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Old 02-24-2020, 06:48 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Caster is fine if you drill and mount shackles through the frame. I'm an advocate of doing that and moving axle forward using springs that aren't drilled in the center, like a Toy Rear.
Through the frame? Have you ever worked on a Sami?
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Old 02-24-2020, 11:43 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Through the frame? Have you ever worked on a Sami?
Yeah, through the frame. drill through one side, then drill through the other, weld in bushing tube, install bushings then shackle. Am I missing something here?
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Old 02-24-2020, 11:50 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Through the frame? Have you ever worked on a Sami?
my thoughts exactly.

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Yeah, through the frame. drill through one side, then drill through the other, weld in bushing tube, install bushings then shackle. Am I missing something here?
samurai's have shackles in the front, not the rear like toyota, chevy, etc.

it is not worth the work to do a shackle reversal then fight the driveshafts popping out, etc.
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Old 02-24-2020, 11:59 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Yeah, through the frame. drill through one side, then drill through the other, weld in bushing tube, install bushings then shackle. Am I missing something here?
Yes, you obviously have never done a shackle reversal on a Sami, but thanks for trying to school everyone how to

The frame is about a foot or more narrower than the springs, and the body mount is right where the shackle mount would go.

Again, there is almost no advantage to a shackle reversal anyway. Waste of time.
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Old 02-24-2020, 06:17 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Ok so the t case rubber mounts are gone. What route is best. The Zuks cradle? Something else. Stay stock? It does have lower gears in the t case.
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Old 02-25-2020, 01:45 PM   #45 (permalink)
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The stock arms that bolt to the case are prone to bending, but retain the stock rubber mounts- these save gears. Make sure you get SGP Bridgestone made mounts, not aftermarket copies- they fail
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Old 02-25-2020, 08:14 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Yeah Iíve read it says to use only the oem ones. Iíve seen a few threads saying to solid mount it because the oem ones wonít hold up just to wheeling. Also read that if you have lower gears in the t case the oem ones donít have a chance at standing up to the task. I did see the t case mounts are known to bend and I did see some upgraded ones with poly bushings. Also seen a thread where there are broken cases and need back bones.

So Iím not sure what to believe. I donít mind spending $240 on the ďsnatchĒ vs buying 3 $30 t case mounts and new mounting brackets just to blow them out later.
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Old 02-25-2020, 08:35 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Snatch is probably your best bet
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Old 02-25-2020, 10:41 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Stock Bridgestone mounts will stretch far enough the transfer will hit the floor without breaking.

Solid mounting the case transfers shock load into the gears. Do whatever you like to replace the stock arms, but let the case move on itís mounts. Easiest way to do this is with stock rubber mounts.

Thereís plenty of 30 year old stock mounts out there holding up just fine to reduction gears and big tyres. Drive force puts the mounts into compression. Normally itís the tension mount (drivers side) that fails due to high load in reverse or heavy bouncing. The 1.0litre suzukis have 4 mounts- two on the tension side rather than one and theyíre through bolted but the rubber is very soft and thereís plenty of float in the case.
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Old 02-26-2020, 05:19 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Just ordered the snatch.
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Old 02-26-2020, 07:15 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Keep spoa

For the type of rig your wanting (90% off-road) spoa will be better, less drag in the mud, better approach angle for rocks and obstacles. I would get rid of those shackles and put yjs all around. As for the steering get a drop pitman arm and a high steer, spring over handles perfectly fine.
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