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Old 04-06-2009, 08:59 AM   #76 (permalink)
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i tried to keep everything as uniform as possible, volume and profiles both.
yes, yes- i forgot to point out the way to keep volume straight. using internal dividers set to finished port width is a good way to maintain contour and volume, they will make tight spots easy to find and prevent overgrinding.

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Old 08-30-2009, 12:26 AM   #77 (permalink)
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Hi; Got anything on combustion chamber work? Such as in./ex. valve deshrouding.
Or what angle cuts to use on the valve an valve seat, or are you useing
insert cuters? This has been a great write up, thanks!
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Old 09-02-2009, 04:55 PM   #78 (permalink)
 
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hey just a quick question you seem to know basically everything about these engines!!

I have found in my research there are many differnt model numbers.. the G13, G13A, G13AB, G13K

My question is i have the G13 its from an 88 sammy, would pistons and rings and such work from the G13A/AB?? seeing as its from a year or 2 newer motor but all the google searching i have done shows the same bore stroke for those years, its up in the 90's when stuff started changing?

thanks sorry for getting off topic!
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Old 09-02-2009, 07:48 PM   #79 (permalink)
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@SamyGuy: use the factory valve grind. unless somebody gets real serious with experimentation on a flow bench with this particular head, put faith in the engineers who designed it. i have a cylinder head book (one of many) where the british authors did an experiment with vauxall aluminum 4-banger heads and performed a progressive series of back cuts on the valve while measuring flow at each step at various lift increments. it is hard to say how modifications on one head design translate to another, but from what i could gain from that reading was that the suzuki design on valve profile is a pretty good one. the intake is fairly flat across the back, and the exhaust is trumpeted. with the cross-sectional area of the ports matching the valve area pretty well, and having a relatively high port ceiling (compared to iron V8's) that's the right combo. as far as chamber work, the main thing is to deshroud the intake near the cylinder wall, and blend the transition area away from the valve seat. there is a little "diamond" between the valves, that could be a potential hot spot and can be smoothed gently with an abrasive roll. use old rolls when doing combustion chambers, they work slower and leave a smoother finish. make sure there are no hot spots where the metal is thin around the spark plug threads as they enter the chamber. some folks polish combustion chambers, that was the thing to do back in the day. old school hot rodders would get away with an additional half point of compression on pump gas with polished chambers, which reflect heat inward (think of a mirror reflecting the sun on a hot day- reflects some heat). today, conventional wisdom is to bead blast the chambers to promote an ultrafine layer of carbon buildup. molecular carbon is an awesome insulator, and does more to contain heat than polishing. you want to get that heat out with the exhaust, not let it soak into the head.

@chev-head: the G-series are all dimensionally the same within their respective size categories. difference is carb, tbi, and 16v mpfi. you need to get the piston kit that matches the head you are using, 8v or 16v. there is a sticky on teamswift.net that covers the G-series alphanumeric designations for more info.
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Old 09-03-2009, 04:04 AM   #80 (permalink)
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thanks!!!
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Old 09-03-2009, 04:16 AM   #81 (permalink)
 
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thanks man!
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Old 09-15-2009, 01:56 PM   #82 (permalink)
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bump
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Old 10-16-2009, 10:14 AM   #83 (permalink)
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Just registered and subscribed to this. Looking for info on doing a 1.6 head to 1.3 block. Many thanks for the info thus far!

According to suprf1y ( http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=42879 ), the cam used in the 1.6, 8-valve head has .5mm (.020") more lift, and 10 degrees more duration compared to the 1.3, 8-valve.

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Old 02-08-2010, 09:55 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Just picked up a 1.6 8v head. Interested in any developments.
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Old 02-20-2010, 09:35 AM   #85 (permalink)
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cam timming

littleBlackSamo.how much did you end up milling off the head and deck?
What would you recommend for getting around 10-10.25:1?
How did you make up for the cam timming? advace or retard? how many degrees? Is your cam timming going to be different using boost? What timming would you recommend for nat. asp. on 87 oct.?
How about cam specs to get the most torque?
Xcellent post.Thanks.
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:31 AM   #86 (permalink)
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Early March bump.
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Old 03-03-2010, 07:59 PM   #87 (permalink)
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A way too late addition but Jeff Penthyridge of Australia had compiled most of this info back about 10 years ago. I don't think he's active on here now and the private zuk forum it used to be housed in closed down a couple of years ago.
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Old 08-18-2010, 10:14 AM   #88 (permalink)
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Just a clarification on the "air inductor nozzles" discussed early in this thread...

Unless I've missed something in tracing the passages, these are for the EGR circuit. The exhaust manifold connects to a passage at the rear of the head which leads to a port in the intake manifold. That port connects to the EGR valve which connects to a passage running below the intake runners near the head. The four ports below the runners connect to this long passage.

I've only taken 3 of these engines apart, but the passage in the back of the head has been plugged on all of them.
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Old 10-05-2010, 10:50 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Something else I can add to this that hasn't come up......the rocker arms in my 1992 1.3 were lower ratio...1.3-1 than the carbed 1.3's.....1.5-1. They made up for it with the cam grind.

The best combo I could come up with at that time was the stock EFI cam with the 1.5 ratio carbed rocker arms. Installed the 1.6 exhaust valves, flat tops from the 1298cc in my 1324cc, and added the adjustable sprocket to fine tune things and it ran like a champ. The Isky actually made less power. One of my junk 1.3's had some huge rods that were twice the size of the ones from either of my other parts motors, so I used those too.

Got a speeding ticket to prove it! 89mph and still accelerating on 32" TSL Radials. Broke motor mounts like crazy, even the Dodge v-8 mounts only lasted 6 months.
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Old 10-06-2010, 01:23 AM   #90 (permalink)
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Hey, all... check-in time. I've been living in Germany since November, and mothballed my samurai in storage back in the states. I've been inactive since then, 'cause it's depressing...

Kooter, you'll have to read the thread, all of your questions are addressed in there, one by one.

A reminder, when milling head and deck, you will need to compensate for cam to crank timing with a modded cam pulley (matter of milling, drilling, filing, or grinding a keyway and clocking the fawker, too easy) or with an aftermarket adjustable one. I recommend going with teamswift.net's vendors for that, since most zuk vendors encourage engine swaps and don't deal with the internals so much- the rice car guys have much lower prices on the botique part. Remember, if you mill 040 off the head and deck, you lose 040(ish) off of a cam pulley tooth from its original timing toward the retard side, moving powerband up. Killerpee ran into trouble with his tensioner running out of adjustment, which is easy enough to address by lengthening the slot or other means (like fabbing a fixed one, heh heh...). Also, the inductor nozzles go bye bye because they are an obstruction, no other reason. We don't need 'em.

I'm glad that the powah has come to those of you who have found this thread informative and applied the information discussed. Now go out and break some more motor mounts!
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Old 10-06-2010, 07:04 PM   #91 (permalink)
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I'm glad that the powah has come to those of you who have found this thread informative and applied the information discussed. Now go out and break some more motor mounts!
I'm done breaking motor mounts in those little shit boxes. Never brought so much joy to my life to see all 4 go!
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Old 05-19-2011, 11:38 AM   #92 (permalink)
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great thread, thanks all
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Old 05-21-2011, 06:35 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Thought I'd add a few things. Built my POS way back when no one was doing it. The 1.3 head on 1.6 block lowers the compression BADLY. I used a 1.6 16v block (at the time junkyard scores were impossible for the 8v) 8v pistons, the stock 1.3 head.

The compression is EXTREMELY low with this setup. It's been so long I can't remember how low, but I believe I took .060" off the block to get 9.6:1 compression with my setup. Didn't want to mill off the head- no reason to, and you get more taking it off the block anyhow because of getting the full pi r2 as the head has a flat spot that encroaches. Would have rather had higher compression, but each point of compression only adds about 3%.

I scavenged off of metro/swift parts to get the Sami style square tooth timing sprocket with the bolt pattern for a dual v-belt to run power steering, and the belt had to be longer (two teeth?) The tensioner was way out of whack, so cutting and rewelding it allowed me to get the adjustment, and verify against #4 VO that it was reasonably close (it is) Timing cover no longer fit, so I ordered an 8v cover from the dealer.

The 1.3 headgasket will work, but one of the ports needs to be punched out. 1.6 looked close enough. I cut and welded the oil inlet to fit the stock pan for clearance. This allows me to tuck my tires all the way up without bumpstop mods and not hit the pan. The 1.3 pan bolts right onto the 1.6 blocks (either one)

I saw a question earlier about interchangeability with the 1.3's. There were two compression ratios. 8.9:1 (86-90) and 9.5:1 (91-95). The difference in compression is due to a longer throw (.060") of the crank, which makes the higher compression engine displace *very* slightly more. I don't think this interferes with parts fitment.

The 1.6 makes it's displacement by longer throw (.540") larger bore (.040") and taller block.

One pretty redneck trick I'm almost ashamed to share... I pilfered some jets out of a junkyard swift (in case it didn't work) and jetted them out using torch tip cleaners. Probably not the best way, but it worked pretty well.

BTW I love my TI86, too.
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Sami 6.5:1 xcase Alloy axles PS 1.6 block (9.6:1) 1.3 head, triY 2", ratchet lockers.
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Old 05-23-2011, 12:08 AM   #94 (permalink)
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Sub'd for future reference good info thanks for the write up
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Old 05-09-2012, 11:57 PM   #95 (permalink)
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Ok hello all.
I've got a Suzuki swift and I'm having trouble getting the timing belt back on
Originally i had to lift one end the head to get it off and the tensioner was pretty much loose no spring connected to it
Details
Suzuki swift 1.3 1993 November g13ba "that's what it says the fire wall"
the block says g13b
and the head is 8 valve
the belt that's still half on there is a t347 pretty sure so
Regards drnegative
contact me via email is best [email protected]
Thanks In Advance
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Old 09-30-2016, 03:44 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Rise from your grave, thread!

After seven years overseas, I'm back stateside. I am flying out to Reno in November to drive Sambo up to my new home in Washington. It's been way too long, but I'm back in the game. I was playing with Hondas in Europe to pass the time. Soon, I will be able to pick up where I left off! Putting spit-shine polish on the (supercharged) 8V turd, live, here on Pirate.

And yes, I owe several readers photos to replace the dead links. When I unpack the HDD with those pics on it, I will get them up. Back in black!
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Old 10-01-2016, 07:27 AM   #97 (permalink)
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Welcome Back. Looking forward to seeing the supercharger set up...

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Old 11-29-2016, 05:44 PM   #98 (permalink)
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Okay, fixed the images in this thread with permanent links! Just in time for everyone to move on to 16v DOHC motors and 2.0L swaps. Well, I'm still playing around with these darn things. Got me some hayabusa throttle bodies and a manifold on the bench now... and a new 1.6 8v head to prep! I'll check back later with more.
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Old 11-30-2016, 11:24 AM   #99 (permalink)
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Okay, fixed the images in this thread with permanent links!
Thanks for that! I'm going to be doing some work soon and it's good to keep this one handy.

Cheers!
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Old 05-12-2017, 09:57 PM   #100 (permalink)
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Any more progress on your 8V? Tan Zuk ran a set of GSXR carb's on his 1.3 and it sounded incredible. I always loved that set up on a 4 banger!! Back in 1969 I had a 1961 Alfa Romeo Gulietta Spyder Veloce that had 2 Weber 40DCOE's on it. The sound of the those side draft Weber's was incredible. The power was nasty!! Typing this and thinking about it just brings a smile to my face. I wish I still had that car!!!
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