YJ spua 33", build thread - Page 2 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 05-13-2010, 09:06 AM   #26 (permalink)
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That's what i was noticing. I really like the way your rig is setup, low stable and capable.

I love the YJ's but I am wanting a better approach. I don't have much of an issue as long as I pay attention to the fact my springs are out there an inch or two in front of the tire, but a good approach is always better

I may try to move the the exl forward on the perch to gain an inch. What did you have to do with drive shafts to make them work in your rig?

I like
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Old 05-14-2010, 02:55 PM   #27 (permalink)
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you should never got hindered by the approach angle, but they got a lot of rock rash. As you say it is much about knowing your rig and driving it right

There seems to be a trend with more people staying spua than before, I think this is cool. minimum lift is what I believe to be the right thing to do. it is a lot more work than just lifting to clear the tires so I can see why this is more popular

Front drive shaft is stock right now and have surprisingly not separated. I have a lengthened drive shaft in the rear and a front going in. the skid needs a notch to clear the drive shaft with the added drop

how I did the drive shafts is here: https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=872959



Not done much, tires are over a week late. But I made new shock mounts and got them mounted. moved the upper mount inward 10mm and up 10mm with some hammering to the fender, and the bottom mount 25mm to the rear. The clearance is 2mm from the frame when flexing, thats the best I can do to keep the 13.5" from rubbing the shocks
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Old 05-14-2010, 03:35 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Thanks for the link ShuDuck. I posted my response in the other thread. So i wouldn't hi-jack this one.

As for spring under, you are right.If I could fit my 33's on YJ;s without toomuch cuttign I would go back to Spring under in a second.
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Old 05-17-2010, 04:49 AM   #29 (permalink)
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I will prove that you can do just that


Needed a spacer to the rear mounts as the springs are backwards, 1.4mm bigger. Dont have access to a lathe, but this worked just fine. 0.7mm wall and 6mm high


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cross member was bent and cracked so it came off, need to make new shock mounts too.
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welded shut the vent

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and beefed up the rear axle, not so pretty welds, I think I was kind of drunk last night

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Last edited by ShuDuck; 05-17-2010 at 04:51 AM.
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Old 05-19-2010, 03:27 PM   #30 (permalink)
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it sits 2" higher than stock and clears 33x13.5"

Trimmed what I needed, clears the head lights and keep enough sheet metal to make it look good

mounted front YJ OME 2", and they are soft and flexy. so flexy that I got a lot of rear steer. needs to be dropped 2" + on the frame mounts





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Old 05-20-2010, 08:59 AM   #31 (permalink)
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No there's the ground clearance you have bee looking for.

How about uptravel..are you going to have much room to stuff the tires over big bumps etc? I ma sure you have apan, i am just wondering what it is
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Old 05-21-2010, 02:48 AM   #32 (permalink)
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1" to the bump stops and 1 1/2" when the stops are compresses. This is very close to what I had and worked very well. Also my tie rod do not hit the pitman arm at full stuff, so with only 2" lift I think i will leave the steering alone. bump steer wont be a problem as I had 2" OME(suzuki) + 3/4" shackles (taller) before with no real problems
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Old 05-21-2010, 05:04 PM   #33 (permalink)
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That is sweet. Always like what you do with your rig ShuDuck.

I'm waiting to find out how to flip a Sky Manufacturing high steer arm, so the taper points down and run the drag link to it from below, so low lifts like 2-3.5" can run a parallel drag link to tie rod.

Rubiconwheeler (IIRC) from another board runs a flipped sky arm on his 3" lift, for his steering solution. This would be a nice way to go, since getting nice strong drag link and new tie rod ends (no slop), just have to get more info on it.
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Old 05-23-2010, 11:17 AM   #34 (permalink)
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thanks, please let me know what you find out, sounds very interesting. got a link or pic?
with trackick steering arm I have 3" of drag link drop.


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making room for the rear. need to reroute the fuel filler somehow.
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new inner fenders mocked up
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front fenders done, removed some of the front body mount to clear the tires.
just barely keeping the front of the grille

The biggest lugs rubs the springs a bit, but not a big problem

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Last edited by ShuDuck; 05-23-2010 at 11:18 AM.
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Old 05-23-2010, 11:26 AM   #35 (permalink)
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dropped the rear about 4"... moved the front hangers up as high the bolts would let me. didn't feel like frenching them into the frame. removed bottom leaf, not sure how axle wrap will be, just gotta test and see
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rear shackle hangers are moved back and up. 4" long shackles front and rear. also added a diff breather thingy


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very happy with the stance, sits 1/2 taller in the rear without spare wheel and gear. 16" to the belly

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Last edited by ShuDuck; 05-23-2010 at 11:27 AM.
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Old 05-23-2010, 11:27 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WALES View Post
That is sweet. Always like what you do with your rig ShuDuck.
Me too

Quote:
Originally Posted by WALES View Post
I'm waiting to find out how to flip a Sky Manufacturing high steer arm, so the taper points down and run the drag link to it from below, so low lifts like 2-3.5" can run a parallel drag link to tie rod.
A member on another board called sky manufacturing and had them flip the arm before the drilled the taper. He didn't mention having any problems with them doing it this way. I guess they did the arm normally, but for him turned it upside down before they ran the reamer through it.

This isn't the first time I have heard of Sky-manufacturing modifying one of their products for a customer. i would give them a call I am pretty sure they wouldn't mind drilling the arm to accept the TRE upside for you.

HTH
--Sky
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Old 05-23-2010, 11:35 AM   #37 (permalink)
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sky: good info, need to check that out later

last pic to see the overall stance

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Last edited by ShuDuck; 05-23-2010 at 11:37 AM.
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Old 05-23-2010, 12:03 PM   #38 (permalink)
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I know I have said it before, but IMHO this is the killer setup. It sit's low, longer than normal and has the tires needed for clearance, not to mention SPUA.

I like how my samurai handles now, and how well it does off road, but as usually we always look for better. sooner or later I'll have the guys to swap mine back to SPUA and make the YJ's work.

It's hard to want to tear apart and re-work your suspension just to get it 2-3 inches lower..but i have a feeling this is where I am headed.

FWIW
The previous owner mauled the stock stuff including frame mounts, so the best quickest most cost effective way to get it on the road was the YJ M/L setup.

Don;t get me wrong it's a great setup, and will go about anywhere. I would just be a little more comfortable ,and be able to take obstacles with a little more speed if I was a tad lower.

great work ShuDuck
Your thread has become a good reference in the Zook world for a good performing suspension spring under.
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Old 05-24-2010, 07:12 AM   #39 (permalink)
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I like the way you remade and raised the rear spring hangers at the frame end. Mine are the typical homemade relocation plate, and they hang down too low and catch on crap. Good work man.
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Old 05-24-2010, 11:44 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Thanks guys I appreciate the kind comments
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Old 05-29-2010, 03:39 PM   #41 (permalink)
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not much going on, got the shocks mounted. Since the shock mounts need to be so high to avoid tilting them I figured Id lift the floor and tank.also made bumpstops of spoa perches and stock bumpstops






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Last edited by ShuDuck; 05-29-2010 at 03:43 PM.
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Old 05-30-2010, 12:43 PM   #42 (permalink)
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So what do you have planned for the drear deck now? I've thought about cutting through the bed to fit the longer shocks (more uptravel) but haven't had the guts to break out the grinder yet.
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Old 05-30-2010, 02:21 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Welding in a new raised one, the old had some rust. my GFs old body(zuk body that is) have a good floor. I have to take off the rockers and switch to her new body as well
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Old 06-07-2010, 01:02 PM   #44 (permalink)
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old body hacked up

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Raised floor and new wheel wells.
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was a pain to get the fuel filler to work.
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Gave the beaten up tanks skid some paint and mounted it back on. The tanks is lifted as well

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Old 06-07-2010, 01:08 PM   #45 (permalink)
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and I got a problems with the springs, I can raise the height 1" in the front by just lifting it by hand and it will sit there. All bushings are well lubed and all bolts loose. Hope they will settle after some use, it is truly pissing me off, been trying a lot of different spring pack combos, but ended up with the first pack.

problem is that it will sit crooked after I exit it. push passenger side down and it sits level
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Old 06-07-2010, 01:30 PM   #46 (permalink)
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what type of diffs do you have? A spool won't help the vehicle sitting level if you just pulled into a spot turning
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Old 06-07-2010, 01:44 PM   #47 (permalink)
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that rear deck is looking pretty good, heck the whole thing is. Nice job.

As for the springs, I am having the same issue in the right rear. If Anyone rides in it, or I put anything with any weight to it, on the passenger side it sags when the weight is gone.

Pull it up with your hands and it stays. It's starting to piss me off too. Like you I loosened everything up, so it should return to ride height if there is any spring pressure.

Sometimes it sags in the right rear when you are driving down the road too. For some reason the passenger rear has been a problem that follows all my different spring packs and shocks too.
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Old 06-10-2010, 03:26 AM   #48 (permalink)
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got lockright front and rear. but I have checked it and measured a hundred times. tried different spring packs, but still the same problem.

Did the sagging problem get better over time? Im going to wheel it some before I try anything else, maybe they will settle in. It is just like it is 1kg to light to compress the springs properly
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Old 06-10-2010, 06:25 AM   #49 (permalink)
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The ride height isn't sticking as much anymore, it's returning to ride height better now, but the passenger rear is still noticeably lower.
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Old 06-11-2010, 01:17 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Changed the oil on the 6.5 tcase. quite a lot shavings on the magnet. the oil where pretty ghey as well (glitter).

took it apart and inspected, seems fine. Shimmed the input so it sits level 0.1mm gap. lowrange says it is supposed to be 0.35-0.45mm gap. need more shims. Hope this will take care of things, some of the insane gear whine too

Ill get a pic of the gear teeth, not so sure about these
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