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Old 06-10-2011, 12:37 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Finally getting a bit of time to work on the zuk

I started by stripping the front. I wanted to have some fresh frame to work with so I cut it half way into the motor mounts leaving behind the fish plate to make it easy to tie the new rails in.



I also sleeved in some dom for bumper bolts



A bit more room now with out the down turn up front. Still need to plate where they join

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Last edited by BCzuk; 06-10-2011 at 12:40 PM.
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Old 06-10-2011, 12:49 PM   #77 (permalink)
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This is how I mounted the winch. I wanted it to sit low in the rails so when I make a new front bumper I can use thin material since it wont be doing any work

Started with some 1/8 plate and doubled it up where the winch lines up



How it will sit in the rails. The back piece will add a bunch of strength and also guard the rad



Also added some more steel to the front to help support the main plate





I think its look good but the bumper will probably hide it all anyway lol

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Old 06-10-2011, 03:13 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Lovin it!
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Old 06-18-2011, 05:59 PM   #79 (permalink)
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Any news?

Any news?
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Old 06-22-2011, 02:05 PM   #80 (permalink)
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I have been slowly working on it. It seems I take a step ahead and then end up making more work for myself. The goal has been to keep the front fenders and just do some trimming for the 37s but its starting to look like I might just build a tube clip and skin it. Maybe I can strip the stock fender to just a shell and hang them. I really want to occasionally drive this on the road so we will see. I am going to focus on building the front suspension and making everything fit and deal with that later

Made some stands up front to sit at what I hope is ride height



The steering clearance looks like it will be an issue. I am going to try and drill out the arms and mount the tie rod under the arm with some 3/4 heims. This should make it so I can keep the six shooters and allow me to have my goal of 4" uptravel while staying some what low



Bottom of frame on 37" km2s with 35 psi. This is a projected 4" uptravel in the front and 5.5" in the back


I bought a new drivers fender so I could start cutting on a fender that wasnt smashed



but we ended up with this, so I will probably get a refund on the fender

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Old 06-22-2011, 02:15 PM   #81 (permalink)
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I also bought a really nice GM alternator bracket from a vendor on here. It moves the alt to the passenger side which will use up some empty space and give me some more room for steering etc. Another big plus is now I will be able to switch out a bad alternator without having to pull the rad
http://www.yunit.net/eshop/product.php?id_product=10

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/member.php?u=14085

The bracket comes with all hardware etc and the bracket itself is really well made. My old Gm mount (like TG style) was always working itself loose which I doubt will be a problem with this.





Everything fit perfectly



I was worried it would not clear my motor mounts but wasnt a problem

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Old 06-22-2011, 02:20 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Not much else to show but I starting making my lower link mounts



I am hoping to have the third link in by the weekend. Its going to be a tight fit to get it mounted on the passenger side with the oilpan, elocker etc robbing room
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Old 06-22-2011, 02:25 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Do you best to hang on to that sheetmetal, I know it's tough (understatement).

it is looking really good. You are going to have a sweet rig when it is all aid and done.
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Old 06-22-2011, 02:37 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Ya I want to just have to figure out the best way. My brother keeps suggesting that we extend the fenders and hood 4-6" to create more room and hide the winch a bit but I am not sure I could pull it off with it looking good. That and I want the drive the thing soon.

I have been searching a lot for front end ideas the past few nights. Any suggestions are appreciated
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Old 06-22-2011, 02:49 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Gonzaolo bravo did it with the rig he made the altitude record in. He extended the hood at the rear, and the fenders in the middle of the arch.

The way he did it kept the welding minimal on the body parts. I assume to make it easier to look good.

Link https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=802731&page=3

Picture, there's more in his thread.

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Old 06-22-2011, 02:55 PM   #86 (permalink)
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I guess if I went that route I could extend it where the red line is fairly easily. I would also cut out all the inner fenders and just rebuild it where it is needed. I just looked at the truck again and extending it 4" would be plenty

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I dont really need to make room for uptravel just tire size and some room for a bigger fan under the hood would be nice. The other main thing is keeping the headlights fairly legal
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Old 06-22-2011, 02:56 PM   #87 (permalink)
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I forgot about his thread, thx
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Old 06-22-2011, 03:14 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCzuk View Post
My brother keeps suggesting that we extend the fenders and hood 4-6" to create more room and hide the winch a bit
Your brother is a smart man.



...well, except for that whole "selling his FToy bit".

On 2nd thought, don't listen to him~!
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Old 06-22-2011, 03:50 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Hey no problem Glad the thread came in handy.

If I were in your spot I would really lean towards the full fender. I now it is a lot more work, but being absolutely comfortable that you are road legal is more than just driving to the trails.

Once a rig starts replace sheet metal for tube it becomes easier to ..well to put it blunt easier to half ass. Being trail only means you don't need as nice of tires, all the lights don't have to work..ahh I'll finish that bumper next week type of stuff.

Keeping a rig street legal means it will be legit and reliable 100% of the time. You are less likely to leave crap in the rig that will fly around, and more likely to keep the running gear and steering up to par.


On another note, when/if you ever go to sell it a full bodied street legal rig open it to a lot more buyers and keep the price up where it should be.

I have worked hard to keep mine road legit, and handling well at speed. It has cost me a lot of wheeling time, and work...But...It's well worth the work in the end. * IMHO *

'Sides that, the first thing most allot of Samurai guys do, is chop off the ass end end then tube the front. A bad ass wheeling rig with all it's sheetmetal brings the
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Old 06-22-2011, 04:44 PM   #90 (permalink)
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One of the main reasons I sold my old buggy was to have something I could occasionally enjoy driving around town. Life would be easier if I made it offroad only but I wont give up now
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Old 06-22-2011, 04:45 PM   #91 (permalink)
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Your brother is a smart man.



...well, except for that whole "selling his FToy bit".

On 2nd thought, don't listen to him~!
He has a pile of parts now, he should of kept it simple
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Old 06-22-2011, 05:49 PM   #92 (permalink)
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Any more updates on this? The front end looks great.

Out of interest, do all Sami's in the USA come with the alternator on the driver's side? Ours are all on (your) passenger side, (which is our drivers side)..
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Old 06-22-2011, 10:22 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Wink

It's a 22RE in there
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Old 06-28-2011, 08:20 AM   #94 (permalink)
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Thumbs up Wow !

Artwork ! your metal sir, is artwork ! This should actually be bulletproof !

Keep it up,Ed
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Old 07-06-2011, 08:15 PM   #95 (permalink)
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Still plugging away when i get some time.

I have the upper link mocked up now. I plated the frame inside and out and added a sleeve for the upper mount. Once I get everything cycled and know it will work right I will finish the frame end mounts and get the bolts in double shear



Drilled a 5/8 hole in some 1" solid we had in the scrap bin to make the sleeve



Started the diff mount



Its a tight fit at full bump but everything clears

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Old 07-06-2011, 08:24 PM   #96 (permalink)
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My brother had the idea of joining the panhard bar, shock mount and link mount into one piece so after some playing around I think I have everything where it will fit. I ended up having to reduce the uptravel a little bit so the panhard will clear when driver side is flexed up but I will just raise the ride height to make up for (only .75 of a inch or so)

Card stock paper works really well for making templates



Getting there. I sleeve where the panhard bolt will go through





Once I am take the diff out for welding I will make some gussets to go from the bracket down to the lower link mount to help spread out the work load

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Old 07-06-2011, 08:36 PM   #97 (permalink)
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Frame mount for the panhard done. I was able to get the panhard to pretty much perfectly match the draglink and it lines up right where the pitman arm is with the wheels straight so I dont think I will have any bump steer issues



Diff end put it double shear. i also added some metal vertically in the inside to add some strengh before tacking on the top plate. The top plate needs a little grinding to clear the lower coilover bucket still



Last night I cleaned up the old shock towers and mocked up the coilovers. As you can see I still need to figure out my spring length/rates. I had to crank the top down 5" to get to my ride height

Feels good to have it back on all fours

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Old 07-07-2011, 02:31 AM   #98 (permalink)
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Some seriously nice looking work..That must be time consuming as all hell.

Shoot just making axle truss has been taking me forever. If I just had a lathe and bridgeport in my garage... shit I would never get any real work done then
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Old 07-07-2011, 08:25 AM   #99 (permalink)
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Very nice indeed. I am scared of your body stretch plans, they never work out good looking
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Old 07-07-2011, 09:43 AM   #100 (permalink)
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I have the same fear as you but now that the front diff is in it looks like I might be able to cut the stock ones to fit. I am going to take the dented fender and cut out all the inners and see what I can do. If I get some time I will do it today and take some pics. I might be able to get away with doing something like this

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