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Old 04-16-2018, 01:40 AM   #851 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo View Post
So my clutch is not wanting to disengage, I have a feeling there is a problem with the pressure plate. I do also have some slop in the pedal pivot, but I don't think that is the whole issue. I got the truck with around 215k on it and with 310k on it now, I think I'm due either way.

I've read that people have gotten ~$600 south bend clutches only to receive a Sachs brand clutch.

This is what I found with some googling.

Sachs K70263-01 Clutch Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C7FGYQ..._BBb1AbXAEZDQH

EFT HD CLUTCH SOLID FLYWHEEL for 94-97 FORD F250 F350 F59 7.3L V8 TURBO DIESEL https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078X74JFB..._JGb1AbRH2R42Y

Anyone have any better suggestions? I'm still running stock injectors with plans for stage 1's some day, so not crazy power.
I bought and picked up a sb clutch direct from their factory in South bend, in. It had valeo stamped on it.
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Old 04-18-2018, 08:27 AM   #852 (permalink)
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Well I ordered the stuff I linked above.

Is there anything else I should replace while I have the trans out? I'm thinking it might be a good time to do bellowed up pipes?
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Old 04-18-2018, 07:19 PM   #853 (permalink)
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Build your own bellowed up pipes. Summit racing sells the bellows to graft into the existing up pipes. Weld an exhaust flange at the top of each pipe that matches the collector bolt pattern and size to eliminate the donuts.
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Old 04-18-2018, 08:24 PM   #854 (permalink)
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Build your own bellowed up pipes. Summit racing sells the bellows to graft into the existing up pipes. Weld an exhaust flange at the top of each pipe that matches the collector bolt pattern and size to eliminate the donuts.
Well I guess I never looked into it that much. I didn't realize the kits cost so much. Also why are the 99+ like $200 and the 94-97 $450-800?

Is it going to be a lot easier to do with the trans out? Or should I just wait until I pull out the turbo?
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Old 04-19-2018, 04:40 AM   #855 (permalink)
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I think my IDM has shit the bed. Truck wonít start unless itís plugged in for long period of time and the batteries are fully topped off.

Finally got around to a buzz test,threw a p1293. I Ohmed the middle pin on the passenger side valve covers harness to 24 on the IDM connector and it looked good, but with the key on I donít get 5v to that same middle pin. When checking he driver side I do get the 5v.

My theory (tell me why Iím wrong please!) is without this signal itís trying to start on only the driver side bank. Once itís running they all kick in though because the low side pins are still connected just no voltage on the high side.


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Old 04-19-2018, 05:11 AM   #856 (permalink)
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there are no signal wires to the valve cover.
one high V DC and four grounds to IDM, and the glowplugs.
none of that is 5V.

a hard start does not sound like IDM to me. it either sends 100+VDC to fire injector or it dont

Last edited by mj; 04-19-2018 at 05:11 AM.
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Old 04-19-2018, 05:17 AM   #857 (permalink)
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Build your own bellowed up pipes. Summit racing sells the bellows to graft into the existing up pipes. Weld an exhaust flange at the top of each pipe that matches the collector bolt pattern and size to eliminate the donuts.
Well I guess I never looked into it that much. I didn't realize the kits cost so much. Also why are the 99+ like $200 and the 94-97 $450-800?

Is it going to be a lot easier to do with the trans out? Or should I just wait until I pull out the turbo?
Depends on how nasty and corroded everything is. I did up pipes on a truck with zero rust and it was a pita. Not sure why there is such a price gap but I got Stainless bellowed pipes and collector for $169 on a 2001. Definitely easier to work with when all of it is new.

Or you can build a T4 mount while the transmission is out.

Last edited by Back Woods; 04-19-2018 at 05:18 AM.
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Old 04-19-2018, 08:30 AM   #858 (permalink)
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there are no signal wires to the valve cover.
one high V DC and four grounds to IDM, and the glowplugs.
none of that is 5V.

a hard start does not sound like IDM to me. it either sends 100+VDC to fire injector or it dont

Hmm, maybe I am misunderstanding the service manual. Note this is taken from a 99+ and mine is a 97 so Pin e would be equivelent to Pin C as I understand.



NA20 DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCs) P1294 AND P1293: CHECK FOR
VOLTAGE ON HIGH SIDE CIRCUIT
 DTCs P1294 and P1293 indicate an open circuit exists on the high side circuit between the IDM and
the injectors. The following table lists the circuits to inspect while performing these pinpoint tests,
based on the DTC retrieved during the KOEO On-Demand and Injector Electrical Self Tests.
 Key off.
 Disconnect both connectors on the bank with the code.
 Key on, engine off.
 Measure voltage on the suspect high side circuit pin E on the injector vehicle harness connectors and
battery ground.

Is the voltage greater than 1 V?
Yes Go to NA21 No Go to NA24
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Old 04-19-2018, 04:09 PM   #859 (permalink)
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GB Remanufacturing - Tech Bulletin #103

this is what i used to rule out idm.
then I megered the harness
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Old 04-23-2018, 06:02 AM   #860 (permalink)
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I never had an idm give me a hard start. Every single time my truck would fire off, run perfect, then randomly start running like shit. Like I was losing multiple injectors. Took me a month to figure out because apparently every single person/shop I consulted had never seen an idm go bad. Luckily I had an extra on a parts truck and it solved my issue.
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Old 04-23-2018, 09:43 PM   #861 (permalink)
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GB Remanufacturing - Tech Bulletin #103

this is what i used to rule out idm.
then I megered the harness


Ok thanks. Looks pretty straight forward. Iíll ohm it out this weekend. Iím 95% sure I need Injectors but trying to talk myself out of it still


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Old 05-12-2018, 05:29 AM   #862 (permalink)
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I never had an idm give me a hard start. Every single time my truck would fire off, run perfect, then randomly start running like shit. Like I was losing multiple injectors. Took me a month to figure out because apparently every single person/shop I consulted had never seen an idm go bad. Luckily I had an extra on a parts truck and it solved my issue.


I swapped in a new IDM. I get voltage out of each center pin on the valve cover now where before the passenger bank was dead. Truck fired off with no issue.

Itís also about 15 degrees warmer this week which Iím sure isnít hurting but cautiously optimistic this fixed it.


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Old 06-01-2018, 10:39 AM   #863 (permalink)
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I just had the IDM go bad on mine. Just driving along and all of a sudden, no power, and running like garbage. Determined that the engine was only running on the driver side cylinders.
Anyway, after I replaced it, the engine ran better and smoother than it ever did before, which was surprising because, like mj, I thought that the IDM either worked, or it didnt. But it seems that the performance of the old one may have degraded over time.
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Old 06-01-2018, 06:37 PM   #864 (permalink)
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I just had the IDM go bad on mine. Just driving along and all of a sudden, no power, and running like garbage. Determined that the engine was only running on the driver side cylinders.
Anyway, after I replaced it, the engine ran better and smoother than it ever did before, which was surprising because, like mj, I thought that the IDM either worked, or it didnt. But it seems that the performance of the old one may have degraded over time.
Same exact thing happened to mine last fall, except the driver side quit. I figured it out because my get gauge read 0*

They must be going bad from age more than milage.
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Old 11-16-2018, 07:07 AM   #865 (permalink)
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Anyone regularly towing (more worried about stopping) 20k with one of these trucks?

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Old 11-19-2018, 10:49 AM   #866 (permalink)
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Anyone regularly towing (more worried about stopping) 20k with one of these trucks?


I was probably well short of that with a mini excavator behind mine. Had a problem with the harness connector and trailer brakes weren't working at first. Overall impressions... if I had lumps of coal up my ass, then I would have shit out diamonds when I applied the brakes.
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Old 11-19-2018, 11:13 AM   #867 (permalink)
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Anyone regularly towing (more worried about stopping) 20k with one of these trucks?
My dad still runs over 30k hauling hay with a 32' GN. Truck is a 96 F350 7.3 ZF5 C&C dually. Yeah you have to have good brakes on everything and plan stops
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