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Old 04-23-2015, 12:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Drilled and slotted rotors worth it?

I hate doing brakes, so Iam trying to eliminate doing them every few months or so. This is going on a 2006 F250 powerstroke, longbed, 4wd. This is used as a tow rig/daily driver. is it worth doing the slotted and drilled rotors? Do they stop better and disipate heat better? Do they last longer too?

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Old 04-23-2015, 12:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Purely aesthetic. The drilled ones are more likely to crack so I'd steer clear of anything drilled through.

I went with very high quality Ebc factory style rotors. Could have went slotted for the same price but just don't like the ricer look. My brakes work awesome.

Here is an article to help you decide.
Rotors: Blank vs Cross Drilled vs Slotted and Warping | Automotive Thinker - Discussing the finer points of automobiles
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Old 04-23-2015, 12:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Purely aesthetic. The drilled ones are more likely to crack so I'd steer clear of anything drilled through.

I went with very high quality Ebc factory style rotors. Could have went slotted for the same price but just don't like the ricer look. My brakes work awesome.

Here is an article to help you decide.
Rotors: Blank vs Cross Drilled vs Slotted and Warping | Automotive Thinker - Discussing the finer points of automobiles
Dude, that was a GREAT read. I had no idea half of that was even the case.

Thanks for the advice. Going with some high end rotors and pads.

Dima
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Old 04-23-2015, 05:06 PM   #4 (permalink)
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How many miles your brakes last? And how much of that miles are when towing?

I got probably at least 30k miles on my front brakes and at least 40k miles on my rear (drum). My rear definitely still don't need to be replaced if they're not cracked (from seized parking brake cables). My front is due for pads now. the front is wearever rotors, wearever gold pads from advance, rear is autozone brand shoes & drums, nothing fancy, but I'm going to step up in the front at least to have less brake dust.
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Old 04-23-2015, 05:11 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If you get a decent pad like ebc or Hawk you will never go back to autozome anything. The difference in stopping power is noticeable. No joke. Of course my Hawk super duty pads were something like $250 for both axles. But worth it.
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Old 04-23-2015, 05:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If you get a decent pad like ebc or Hawk you will never go back to autozome anything. The difference in stopping power is noticeable. No joke. Of course my Hawk super duty pads were something like $250 for both axles. But worth it.

I assure you that I know how the top end performs. I love Adaptive One from NAPA.

I made the post because the point I try to make is that even with my cheapo brakes (what I can get at the time, not my first choice), but I still don't need to do my brakes every few months like the PO. That's way too fast to "work on my brakes every few months" in normal operating conditions.

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Old 04-23-2015, 06:54 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I'd never waste my money on slotted rotors again

Been VERY pleased with my current Bosch rotors
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Old 04-23-2015, 07:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Every few months!? Something is wrong with your current set up.

No. Not worth it. Can't resurface them, they have less surface material. Unless your running super cheap unbaked pads from a 3rd world country you most likely won't bave outgassing of the pads.

Heaviest vented (in the middle factory style) rotor is the best money spent. Heavier=more material and less likely to warp.

Don't buy lifetime pads. Don't buy the cheapest pads. Motorcraft makes pretty good pads, they have to to appease the masses.

If you go aftermarket. Don't buy ceramic. Organics dust and wear but grab good when cold. Good daily driver stuff, they don't eat rotors. If you can't learn how to drive in a manner to save brakes this will probably cost you less in the long run. I like semi metalics. Lot's of different blends and i think this is where people give their die hard ebc/napa/acme endorsements.
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Old 04-23-2015, 07:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Might look into an exhaust brake if you're towing a lot - it'll save the brakes some, and make it better to drive to. Could also be your driving habits.
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Old 04-23-2015, 08:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I did the the GM Performance Parts rotors on my 2500. Drilled/slotted. Best thing I did to the truck. Originals warped in 20k miles and were resurfaced multiple times under warranty. Terrible chatter, un-drivable in traffic.

At 36 k miles went to slotted/drilled fronts. At about 50k miles I got cut off by a cop towing at over 20k gross on a 14 mile 7% grade. Smoked the fronts and warped the rear rotors. Kept the rotors on the front, new pads, slotted/drilled rear rotors. At 158k miles now and no vibes, still the first set of replacement rotors front/rear. I would highly recommend them. My wifes car gets vibes when driven hard in the mountains, slotted rotors will be the first mod it gets out of warranty.
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Old 04-24-2015, 08:04 AM   #11 (permalink)
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My experience is similar to ramv's. I tried OEM, Wagoner, and China rotors while putting 300k miles on my daily commuter car. Tried several types of pads including EBC. Wheels are always torqued to spec. One panic stop and the rotors would warp. I installed a set of drilled and slotted eBay rotors and Brakebest ceramic pads and it stops better than it ever has with no rotor warping.
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Old 04-24-2015, 08:31 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I'm a big fan of slotted. Not so much a fan of drilled.
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Old 04-24-2015, 09:28 AM   #13 (permalink)
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EBC slotted / dimpled, not drilled, and yellow pads on a Ram 6.7 3500 with 35's. A few thousand KM on them, perform much better than OEM, especially when hot.
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Old 04-24-2015, 07:24 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I ran ebc slotted rotors front and rear, along with ebc green stuff pads

Lots of money for just "stock like" stopping power

They didn't leave any dust.....which was nice

They also didn't last over 35,000 miles

Junk junk junk
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Old 04-24-2015, 08:15 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Green stuff, eh?
Greenstuff brake pads are a passenger car/saloon car pad NOT made for Truck or SUV fitments.
Greenstuff Brake Pads
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Old 04-24-2015, 08:24 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hasteranger:31373386
Green stuff, eh?
Greenstuff brake pads are a passenger car/saloon car pad NOT made for Truck or SUV fitments.
Greenstuff Brake Pads
Wrong

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/ebc-dp71650

Green Stuff 7000 series are for trucks
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Old 04-24-2015, 09:10 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Only have run EBC on motorcycles so no input but the Raybestos stuff that GM/AC Delco sells is stellar compared to OEM and pretty darn cheap. No more solid replacement rotors for me. There is a reason why performance vehicles use slotted rotors and there is a reason why oem uses solid (cost).
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Old 04-24-2015, 09:26 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I recommend the heaviest rotor you can find, with a name brand semi metallic pad. Stay away from ceramic or organic pads on a tow rig.

I learned my lesson running EBC Green Stuff 7100's. Despite properly breaking them in, the pads glazed over and overheated the rotors by my second trip. It was a complete waste of money.

Now I'm running wagner severe duty pads. They are far better and cost less than $30 a set.
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Old 04-24-2015, 10:02 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Drilled and slotted ebays on my psd and love them
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Old 04-24-2015, 11:06 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Dominos pizza is really popular, too.
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Old 04-25-2015, 12:03 AM   #21 (permalink)
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So lots of opinions and there's not anything wrong with that but I would like to know why you folks think they work better?
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Old 04-25-2015, 12:28 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I recommend the heaviest rotor you can find, with a name brand semi metallic pad. Stay away from ceramic or organic pads on a tow rig.

I learned my lesson running EBC Green Stuff 7100's. Despite properly breaking them in, the pads glazed over and overheated the rotors by my second trip. It was a complete waste of money.

Now I'm running wagner severe duty pads. They are far better and cost less than $30 a set.

EBC is garbage. You want to invest in cast iron rotors (the name brand ones) and heavy duty metallic pads, not just semi metallic. Drilled rotors are counter productive, as are ceramic or organic brake pads on a vehicle that tows.

Metallic pads have above 50% metal content in them which means they stop better and last longer. The downsides are, they don't have the same grip when cold, make noise, and dust like a motherfucker.

Typically you'll find them labelled "Severe duty" or "Heavy Duty" something like that.

Here's a link regarding brake pad choice: Brake Pads | Brake Service - Consumer Reports
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Old 04-25-2015, 06:46 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Yeah. I run a pretty serious pad. The Hawk super duty.

http://www.hawkperformance.com/perfo...pads/superduty

And let me tell you, there is no fade, even down long grades. And they may have saved the life of the stupid driver of a car that cut me off when I was towing. With the long life pads that were on there, the pedal would go flat after long braking. You had to stand on it. When the hawks, you can get them as hot as I've had them and they brake. Period.

The other thing is that pad life isn't representative of performance. Some pads have long lives but wear out rotors... Some, like whatever was on my truck, lasted 70,000 miles and weren't even half worn, but we're awful and had no friction.

Not sure how long the hawks will last me but I consider a 30k pad change interval to be fair when towing.
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Old 04-25-2015, 07:40 AM   #24 (permalink)
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First of all the crew you built was awesome....

You say you run the Hawk Super Duty pads. I have read some good stuff about them, so I ordered a set. But I need rotors. What rotors did you end up running?
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Old 04-25-2015, 08:00 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Did not build a crew. You may be thinking of someone else.

But anyway I ran the Ebc solid rotors. They are made if premium gray iron. As far as I could tell they were about as good as I could get.
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