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Old 11-30-2015, 05:51 PM   #26 (permalink)
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This is the filter currently in the truck



I installed new wipers today also



The new Purolator filter was supposed to have deeper pleats



Installed the filter tonight also




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Old 11-30-2015, 06:17 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by OkLaHoMaYJ View Post
I changed my OE plugs out at 40k miles. My 2012 F150 Ecoboost was experiencing a cold irratic idle and stumbling while accelerating. The new SP534's solved the problem. My OE plugs were gapped anywhere from .030 to .042.

I have not drilled the CAC like you're mentioning. I have had, on 3 separate occasions, experienced the weird shudder when accelerating. The last time it did it, the truck ingested so much water that it went into "Limp" and only ran on 5 cylinders. Dealer did the most recent TSB, put some bullshit plastic piece on the CAC that covered about half the surface and put in a new cylinder 6 plug and coil.

Since then, it hasn't happened again. Seems to be fixed, however the most recent TSB that is suppose to address this issue, de-tunes the truck some for sure.

I change the oil every 7,500 miles with Ford SynBlend and Motocraft filter. Swapped out the OE air filter for the AEM one from Full-Race.
I've got a 2013 that came factory with the "bullshit plastic cac cover". This summer while in the rain on the highway for 1.5 hours....booted it to merge with traffic and truck lost all power and went into "limp mode" which is awesome when trying to merge with traffic in the rain. It felt like 15 - 20 seconds to get power back. Ran codes....misfires on cylinders 5 and 6.

I haven't drilled the CAC, the truck hasn't turned 19k miles yet. Haven't had the latest tsb done because I dont want the truck de tuned. I love the truck and the motor.
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Old 11-30-2015, 06:25 PM   #28 (permalink)
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For 5W synthetic, Im running Rotella in everything I own now.

And I mean everything. '96 Powerstroke, '05 Toyota Rav, '84 Subaru, Honda lawn mower

Even the garden tractor go it during a service this weekend! Should help starting a ton during winter (snow blower)

Damn good stuff and it is so nice to only have to worry about one type of oil.
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:02 PM   #29 (permalink)
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have you guys considered the 0w40 mobil euro formula?
the wifes volvo calls for 5w30, the ow40 is just a touch heavier than 30w, and has all of the extended life certifications from BMW, VW, et. al.

It seems to be the best/cheapest option for extended oil drains in a turbo motor.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1722539
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:45 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y2kmxz View Post
I've got a 2013 that came factory with the "bullshit plastic cac cover". This summer while in the rain on the highway for 1.5 hours....booted it to merge with traffic and truck lost all power and went into "limp mode" which is awesome when trying to merge with traffic in the rain. It felt like 15 - 20 seconds to get power back. Ran codes....misfires on cylinders 5 and 6.

I haven't drilled the CAC, the truck hasn't turned 19k miles yet. Haven't had the latest tsb done because I dont want the truck de tuned. I love the truck and the motor.
I pulled that cover off as soon as I got it back. Everyone on F150 Forum was saying its useless and to yank it off. While I do hate the fact that Ford de-tuned my Ecoboost, the problem has gone away.

Maybe down the road when the warranty runs out, I'll throw the POS Ford CAC out and swap in a Wagner Intercooler and some tunes. The Full-Race Intercooler is also appealing…with that FMIC you can run a winch.

For now, it does what I need it to.
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:22 AM   #31 (permalink)
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At this point in time, I will not blindly buy a $400 CAI



There is no point right, other than to gain sound



I will stock with the cheap Purolator drop in for now, but I am highly considering the4 drop in AEM. For $40 shipped, it MIGHT flow better than most CAI kits are capable of



AEM 28-20385, AEM DryFlow Air Filter Factory Direct



I sent AEM an email to see if they test the CFM for this drop in



Air Filter Material Non-woven Synthetic
Air Filter Shape Panel
Filter Material Non-woven Synthetic
Height 2.188 in (56 mm)
Outside Length 10.5 in (267 mm)
Outside Width 9.875 in (251 mm)
Package Contents 1 Air Filter
Package Quantity 1
Product Box Height 11.7 in (297 mm)
Product Box Length 10.4 in (264 mm)
Product Box Width 2.6 in (66 mm)
Product Style AEM Dryflow Panel Air Filter
Weight 1.9 lb (0.9 kg)



I am trying to research CFM requirements for the motor and start listing CFM capabilities of various filters



I know on my old gasser 4.7L Dakota, a larger TB really woke the truck up, even with stock tuning and an aftermarket CAI



I believe that BBK right now makes a 73MM TB



BBK Power-Plus Series Throttle Bodies 1822 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing



BBK : BBK Performance Ford F Series Throttle body



BBK sells a 73MM and an 85MM, but the 85MM is way too much



The stock TB bore is 62MM
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Old 12-01-2015, 11:50 AM   #32 (permalink)
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How much of a pita was it to get the intercooler out?
It wasn't bad at all... (2) hose clamps on the passenger side that you can access with either socket extensions or a long handle screwdriver, the upper and lower support brackets (one you access from above, the other is below and behind the bumper so you have to drop that rubber access flap thingy and the air dam), and then a spring clip on the driver side hose. Probably took 15 minutes, with most of that being trying to figure out the spring clip on the driver side
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Old 12-01-2015, 12:04 PM   #33 (permalink)
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have you guys considered the 0w40 mobil euro formula?
the wifes volvo calls for 5w30, the ow40 is just a touch heavier than 30w, and has all of the extended life certifications from BMW, VW, et. al.

It seems to be the best/cheapest option for extended oil drains in a turbo motor.

Mobil 1 0w40 VOA | Virgin Oil Analysis - PCMO/HDEO | Bob Is The Oil Guy
I run 0w40 in my wife's xc90 and my v70R. It's all I'll use in a turbo application especially with the huge temp swings we see between seasons up here.
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Old 12-01-2015, 03:25 PM   #34 (permalink)
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why meter air and leak it out a hole? I could understand putting a small condensation trap with a ball valve which gets opened every couple of days but don't just drill a hole.
I doubt strongly it will leak enough air to matter unless you're drilling 700 1/16" holes or something. I'd even go a bit bigger, 1/8-5/32" and probably do one at the low spot in each tank. 1/16" is small enough it will very easily get plugged and water may not flow very easily through it.

Unless I'm mistaken, the CAC should be between the turbo and the throttle, which means it will see nearly atmospheric pressure at idle/low load and somewhat above that from boost under load. This is important, because the pressure difference effects how much air will be lost out of the hole. At idle/low load the engine air flow is low, so a small leak could be a problem as even a small air loss is a significant change. At higher low the air flow is higher, so the same amount of air loss is a much smaller percent of the total air flow, hence less of an error, ie less effect. These factors are why vacuum leaks are an issue - maximum vacuum (ie pressure differential, ie air leakage) at the same time as minimum engine air flow, hence a physically quite small leak can cause issues. Upstream of the throttle, the pressure difference is much less, hence much less leakage at idle/low load where it is most critical, and under load when there would be enough pressure difference to cause leakage the overall flow into the engine is large enough that the leakage is likely negligible.
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Old 12-01-2015, 03:34 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Seems crazy to drill a hole. I go through the trouble of pressure testing inter coolers and piping to find and seal leaks. You could always tap a hole and seal it with a Teflon taped plug. I know even small leaks on my 5.9 cummins make a noticeable difference. Perhaps not apples to apples but theory is sound.
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Old 12-01-2015, 05:37 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I had the very first 2011 F150 Ecoboost complete engine failure due to hydrolock. Had 17k miles when it hesitated once and then bent con rod and cracked piston skirt. It was a humid evening and I punched it merging onto highway. Engine was covered by warranty and they replaced intercooler. New one was shaped different, had different inlet and outlet locations, plus the stupid cover over half of it. Turns out, with scan guages that the CAC is nearly 100% efficient and that is why it condenses. Crazy how cool the air stays with water cooled turbos. Just tune it with Torrie at Unleashed Tuning. His calibration must keep temps up enough, that I never noticed a thing after tuning. But I did pull 12-16k trailers all the time. Motor went bang when I was cruising empty. I think they were designed for maximum efficiency pulling.
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Old 12-01-2015, 05:44 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Moral of the story...just drive the piss out of it and don't worry. They tested these trucks in the worst conditions and pulling max loads. Worst thing you can do is baby them too much. Really watch the rear differential fluid though. Mine cooked it every 6k miles until I installed Mag Hytec cooler that doubled capacity. Then, regular cheapo fluid lasted till I traded it.
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Old 12-01-2015, 06:34 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Really watch the rear differential fluid though. Mine cooked it every 6k miles until I installed Mag Hytec cooler that doubled capacity. Then, regular cheapo fluid lasted till I traded it.

"Ford used the 12 bolt 9.75 on the rear of the ecoboost trucks from 2011-2013, the front is an 8.8 differential."

Reusable lubelocker gasket or?
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Old 12-01-2015, 06:51 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Mag Hytec cover has a drain plug, fill hole and dip stick. All with magnets. Best investment for Ford trucks. Weak link on all modern Fords is the rear diff. My 2013 F350 SRW 6.7 Diesel only has 10.75" Sterling axle. Heck, the Toyota Tundra half ton has 10.5" rear. Fords need the extra fluid to keep them cool.
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:23 PM   #40 (permalink)
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The rear MH diff cover holds 6 quarts......do I need a rear additive if I use synthetic?

How does the front 8.8 diff do?
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Old 12-02-2015, 09:05 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Read the label on your synthetic. Some require additives, some don't.
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Old 12-02-2015, 02:15 PM   #42 (permalink)
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No additives needed in either. Additives are for friction clutch type limited slip units to reduce chatter. New F150s are either open differential or electronic locker, so no clutches are used. I would use the cheapest 80W90 or 75W90 synthetic in rear since capacity is doubled. It will last the rest of the trucks life if water never gets in. Front is good for pretty much the life of the truck. If you build up heat in front axle, something bigger is going to bust. I have pulled Dana 60 steer axles from 40+ year old trucks, and fluid still looks new. Most likely was original fluid.
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Old 12-02-2015, 03:50 PM   #43 (permalink)
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I would use the cheapest 80W90 or 75W90 synthetic in rear since capacity is doubled.
When is capacity doubled? Stock cover holds 5 quarts and the MH cover holds 6

Thanks for the info, as I thought it was a rear locker and not LSD
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Old 12-03-2015, 07:18 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Stock on my off road package 3.73 geared rear with e-locker was just under 3 quarts. Mag Hytec cover makes it 5.5 I think. However, you can overfill to 6 and keep both axles lubed better without causing pressure buildup and pinion seal leaks. Fluid runs cooler and expands less, so the higher level causes no adverse issues.
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Old 12-03-2015, 07:36 AM   #45 (permalink)
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For 5W synthetic, Im running Rotella in everything I own now.

And I mean everything. '96 Powerstroke, '05 Toyota Rav, '84 Subaru, Honda lawn mower

Even the garden tractor go it during a service this weekend! Should help starting a ton during winter (snow blower)

Damn good stuff and it is so nice to only have to worry about one type of oil.


I just put Mobil1 5W synthetic in it Sunday was well as new plugs and a filter. I usually run the JD Torq Guard but the dealer wasnt open and snow was coming.

I shit you not I thought something was wrong becasue it was so quiet . I store it back in the shed and snowblow a way out everytime I need it. -20º starts should be a breeze now.
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Old 12-03-2015, 09:49 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Stock on my off road package 3.73 geared rear with e-locker was just under 3 quarts. Mag Hytec cover makes it 5.5 I think. However, you can overfill to 6 and keep both axles lubed better without causing pressure buildup and pinion seal leaks. Fluid runs cooler and expands less, so the higher level causes no adverse issues.

I have the 3.73 gears as well........


Ford #12-9.75 [Ford #12-9.75] - $265.00 : mag-hytec


Overall height 3 1/2"
F150 (Heavy Duty) 5.4L
Eco-Boost Engines
Will not fit Ford 12 bolt 8.8 differential
Includes: Bolt kit, Drain Plug and Dip Stick.
Capacity: 5 Quarts

According to Amsoil, the fluid capacity on the stock 9.75 diff:

75W-140

Differential, With 9.75 RingGear Std Rear..........5.5 pints
Differential, With 9.75 Trac-Lo Rear..........5.1 pints
Differential, With 9.75 ELD Rear..........5.9 pints

Two pints in a quart, so basically 3 quarts
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Old 12-03-2015, 11:47 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Have a 2012 with 285k on the clock and has a bad head gasket. Anything else we should look at inside when we are there? Any idea of how it is to pull the heads? Its a company truck that gets used.
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Old 12-03-2015, 01:24 PM   #48 (permalink)
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That's impressive........stock turbos also?

I would almost think about pulling the motor and finding a drop in from a salvage truck, much less miles overall

Can you or did you check each cylinder for compression?
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Old 12-03-2015, 07:58 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Have a 2012 with 285k on the clock and has a bad head gasket. Anything else we should look at inside when we are there? Any idea of how it is to pull the heads? Its a company truck that gets used.
A blown head gasket already? What a POS

Thats a pretty impressive amount of mileage.
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Old 12-04-2015, 10:10 AM   #50 (permalink)
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That's impressive........stock turbos also?

I would almost think about pulling the motor and finding a drop in from a salvage truck, much less miles overall

Can you or did you check each cylinder for compression?
Everything is stock and original other than brakes and rebuilt the front suspension about 30k miles ago. Also the transfer case broke and was replaced about 20k miles ago. Other than that just basic maintenance. Btw plugs were only replaced twice in its life. Body is still in great shape so might as well keep it running.

Haven't done any test other than a combustion leak test witch it failed horribly. Just waiting on parts and we will start tearing into it. Should be around a thousand for the parts.

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A blown head gasket already? What a POS

Thats a pretty impressive amount of mileage.
The guy we had driving it put 90k miles on it in the first 8 months. After that he slowed down a bit. He probably averaged 300 miles a day and then every 3 weeks he made a 2000 mile round trip. He just retired and three weeks later the truck blew a head gasket.

Overall it's a good truck but it never came close to the advertised millage. Over it's life it averaged 16 mph and I would say 85% if it's life was hwy miles.
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