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Old 12-05-2015, 05:58 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Hope to get these installed this weekend, looks like an easy job

Dielectric grease for the coil plugs and antisieze for the plug threads

I'll get pics how each old plug looks too......22,000 miles

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Old 12-05-2015, 07:22 AM   #52 (permalink)
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My manual calls for 5W-30, so why did the dealer use 5W-20 when I bought it?

Anyways, I'll be using Mobil 1 5W-30 full synthetic and a Motorcraft oil filter...... 6 total quarts
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Old 12-05-2015, 09:35 AM   #53 (permalink)
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My manual calls for 5W-30, so why did the dealer use 5W-20 when I bought it?

Anyways, I'll be using Mobil 1 5W-30 full synthetic and a Motorcraft oil filter...... 6 total quarts
Because the dealer has a giant tank full of 5w20 since that is what Ford has spec'd for 95% of their vehicles the last 15 years. It is probably quite a bit cheaper for them to use 5w20.
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Old 12-05-2015, 08:22 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Plug change went smooth......all of the stock plugs were tight in the heads, but nothing crazy

Antisieze will hopefully help next time around

The stockers were all at .035......I went with .030 on all the new plugs

Kudos to Ford for not blocking any of the coil pack bolts or making me remove a bunch of crap to get to each plug

The only thing that I had to remove was the PVC line on the driver side front plug ( cylinder 4) which ran over the top of the coil pack

I will see how it runs and performs this week

I'll change the oil and filter next weekend...... I gotta hit the woods tomorrow

I'd estimate total time was 45 min, taking my time, using compressed air to blow crud away from each plug area, applying plug terminal grease, antisieze, etc
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Old 12-06-2015, 06:57 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Old 12-06-2015, 01:30 PM   #56 (permalink)
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When I changed my plugs around 40k miles they were still in spec but still had a rough idle and occasional miss at lower rpms. Installed new plugs and it ran good at first but now its back to running rough. Im going to pull them and regap them to .30 vs .35 they were when I installed them.
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Old 12-06-2015, 01:47 PM   #57 (permalink)
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The truck is running so smooth after the new plugs, but I instantly lost 1mpg?!?
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Old 12-06-2015, 03:22 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Old 12-06-2015, 04:49 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Mag Hytec cover has a drain plug, fill hole and dip stick. All with magnets. Best investment for Ford trucks. Weak link on all modern Fords is the rear diff. My 2013 F350 SRW 6.7 Diesel only has 10.75" Sterling axle. Heck, the Toyota Tundra half ton has 10.5" rear. Fords need the extra fluid to keep them cool.
A 2013 F350 has a 10.5 full float rear, not 10.75. That's a fairly typical sized ring gear for a srw truck. What problems are you having with it that you're calling it a weak link? We've put millions of miles on them and I can't recall any problems. The Toyota has a semi float rear. There's really no comparison.
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No additives needed in either. Additives are for friction clutch type limited slip units to reduce chatter. New F150s are either open differential or electronic locker, so no clutches are used.
My wife's 2013 F150 has a limited slip. So do all the other Heavy Payload package trucks with a rear traction aid.
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Old 12-06-2015, 06:16 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Doing all my own maintenance, I check all fluids every time on the lift. None of my Toyotas have EVER changed the color of differential fluid. My F150 Ecoboost and 6.7 Powerstroke F350 both had black, foul smelling fluid and tons on metal on magnet within 7k miles from new. Changed fluid and was the same in another 7 or 8k. They produce lots of heat (infrared gun showed 325 pretty consistently at cover). Since the new covers and higher capacity, temps run 180-195 and no more metal.
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Old 12-07-2015, 06:50 AM   #61 (permalink)
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After a 40 min one way trip to work this morning, I used my temp gun on the rear diff

In 45 degree outside temps and speeds up to 80ish, the rear diff cover was only 115 degrees
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Old 12-07-2015, 06:51 AM   #62 (permalink)
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The truck is running so smooth after the new plugs, but I instantly lost 1mpg?!?
Did you reset the EEC?

Otherwise, its your right foot enjoying the better running engine
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Old 12-07-2015, 06:52 AM   #63 (permalink)
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The truck is running so smooth after the new plugs, but I instantly lost 1mpg?!?
Did you reset the EEC?

Otherwise, its your right foot enjoying the better running engine
Reset the what? Computer?
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Old 12-07-2015, 11:25 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Uh, yeah.

After any service that involves replacing parts that have to to with air/fuel/spark, you should reset the EEC.
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Old 12-07-2015, 11:26 AM   #65 (permalink)
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Uh, yeah.

After any service that involves replacing parts that have to to with air/fuel/spark, you should reset the EEC.
Ok, so just disconnect the negative cable for 10 min and re-connect it?
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Old 12-07-2015, 11:40 AM   #66 (permalink)
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OBD2 right?

Then yes, disconnect pos battery cable for a bit, then reconnect and drive.

I believe OBD2 handles idle rest on its own pretty well, its been a while.

I remember OBD1 being pretty sensitive to idle after a reset, so it had a pretty specific idle reset procedure as well. With OBD2 you shouldnt have to bother.
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Old 12-07-2015, 12:01 PM   #67 (permalink)
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All of my differential temps were after several hrs of pulling16k camper at 70mph. On my Evoboost Max Tow, the factory diff cover was hotter than exhaust pipe. I know I was pulling 5k over rated, but with more oil capacity the temps dropped to less than half what they were. Added bonus of no more metal on magnets too. I will also mention, my used oil analysis showed better results and less wear metals the harder I pulled with it. Crazy, but all my pulls were long distance. I drove non stop to Florida and back once empty (got 23 mpg going 80mph) and oil showed more fuel dilution than when pulling. Direct injected turbo engines are designed to be ran hard.
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Old 12-07-2015, 12:18 PM   #68 (permalink)
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...I will also mention, my used oil analysis showed better results and less wear metals the harder I pulled with it...
After the initial fluid change the bulk of wear would be complete (break-in) so the reduction in debris captured by a magnet in the differential would likely be similar with or without changing fluid capacities and/or temperatures excepting an imminent failure which would likewise probably occur regardless of changes to fluid, capacity, etc.
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Old 12-07-2015, 02:50 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Very true, but I found the same scenario after 3 fluid changes in my F150. Only after running non-synthetic and the larger cover, did the high temps and wear stop. When I noticed the same pattern with my F350, I just bit the bullet and got the cover. Been great ever since. I just don't agree with lifetime gear fluid like Ford claims. I do however like how less frequent engine oil needs changed, but that is due mostly to cleaner burning engines with better tolerances. Differentials still wear a bunch in the first 5k miles. After that, not much at all. I always flush gear oils in first 5k or sooner.
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Old 12-07-2015, 05:08 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Very unique battery terminals on these trucks.......intriguing design

I took the pos side off and will let it sit for 30 min

Tomorrow will tell if there's a difference
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Old 12-08-2015, 06:21 AM   #71 (permalink)
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Left the battery cables off for 30 minutes and also pressed the factory "reset" feature also on the dash

Drove the truck for 40 today to work, and I gained over 2 mpg from the readings before I swapped the plugs

Good deal, hopefully it keeps improving
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Old 12-13-2015, 11:03 AM   #72 (permalink)
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Ok, who is thinks the oil filter location is stupid?

Remove the oil filter and oil drips/drains everywhere

The oil drain plug is fine and easy

I did discover the oring on the oil fill cap was cracked in half

I was able to match it up with a kit assortment I have
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Old 12-13-2015, 02:41 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Filter location is stupid, it's a real pain if you are changing oil on the ground, not near as bad on a hoist, no matter what the oil never wants to drip where you think it should.
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Old 12-21-2015, 07:43 AM   #74 (permalink)
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I think there is a ton of condensation in this trucks

Whenever I let my truck idle and warm up, there are three large puddles of water on the ground, all under the exhaust

One puddle is at the end of the tail pipe, one at the muffler, and one at the y downpipe
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Old 12-21-2015, 07:53 AM   #75 (permalink)
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There are little holes in the bottom of every low spot. It drove me crazy standing under it on the lift and hearing all those little leaks. I built my own custom 3.5" exhaust using a diesel resonator and Banks Monster muffler and tailpipe. Most restrictive part is the resonator, as it is the same one for all F150s reguardless of motor. I just heard that direct injected gas motors will be using exhaust particulate filters like diesels to clean up the carbon. Makes sense...look at any Ecoboost tailpipe, they are black as an old diesel.
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