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Old 11-28-2015, 06:22 AM   #1 (permalink)
D45
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Ecoboost MODS & Maint

I am getting ready to do the first oil change in my truck, that I bought used a few months back

Now at 22,000 miles (dealer did syn oil/filter at 17k), I am also going to swap in new plugs

I ordered a set of Motorcraft Iridium (SP-534) plugs from Rock Auto

Crazy cheap compared to everyone else, like $4.02 each

These are the plugs all dealerships are using for Eco rough idle and hesitation reports

With a 5% off order coupon code, its a cheap plug change

I am going with a .030 gap, because from what I read this is what the SP534 come pre-gapped to....

I have read alot about some drilling a 1/16" hole in the intercooler, the help drain out all the moisture........ Anyone do this???
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Old 11-28-2015, 09:59 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I have read alot about some drilling a 1/16" hole in the intercooler, the help drain out all the moisture........ Anyone do this???

Mechanics intuition says hell no. But curious if people are actually doing this. You would think proper operation would get rid of water in any intercooler.
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Old 11-28-2015, 10:33 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Search for 3.5 Ecoboost CAC on YouTube

It's crazy how much water runs out after the hole is drilled
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Old 11-28-2015, 10:39 AM   #4 (permalink)
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http://www.f150forum.com/f70/video-drain-hole-ecoboost-cac-cooler-ecoboost-f-150-drain-hole-seep-243449/


http://blog.bluespringsfordparts.com/245/ecoboost-shudder/
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Old 11-28-2015, 12:24 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I am not an ecoboost expert, nor have I ever seen a maintenance chart for one, so take this for what it is worth...
Why change the plugs? I have 2 vehicles with over 200k that are on their original plugs, I went to change them at 175k and they looked like new. Plugs last forever these days.
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Old 11-28-2015, 01:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Jeepermat:34412482
I am not an ecoboost expert, nor have I ever seen a maintenance chart for one, so take this for what it is worth...
Why change the plugs? I have 2 vehicles with over 200k that are on their original plugs, I went to change them at 175k and they looked like new. Plugs last forever these days.
I pulled one, and it was worn badly and gapped at nearly .042

Twin turbos must eat these...... Most are being replaced at 20,000 miles
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Old 11-28-2015, 01:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I am not an ecoboost expert, nor have I ever seen a maintenance chart for one, so take this for what it is worth...
Why change the plugs? I have 2 vehicles with over 200k that are on their original plugs, I went to change them at 175k and they looked like new. Plugs last forever these days.
Right.
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Old 11-28-2015, 01:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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why meter air and leak it out a hole? I could understand putting a small condensation trap with a ball valve which gets opened every couple of days but don't just drill a hole.
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Old 11-28-2015, 04:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Right.
Seriously, my Moms GM 6.0 has over 200k on it with the original plugs, Ive got a set in my garage for it, however there is no need to replace them as they look and gap to new specs.
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Old 11-28-2015, 05:28 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Seriously, my Moms GM 6.0 has over 200k on it with the original plugs, Ive got a set in my garage for it, however there is no need to replace them as they look and gap to new specs.
Regardless of application if you are removing the plugs for ANY reason, you may as well replace them. They are cheap insurance. Just the act of removing them may damage them.
And you have already performed the labor of removing them, so replace them.

Not to mention the factory spec's intervals. Even your 6.0 should have a factory spec'd spark plug change at 80-100k

Most DOHC V6's spark plugs are typically 60k or so.

And before you say "they are still fine at 200+K miles" again...

They are not.

The rig may run "fine" but it isnt running as designed.
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Old 11-28-2015, 05:43 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I have a 2011 EcoBoost, I changed my plugs at 20k, and it smoothed out the idle. . I have not drilled the.050 hole in the tube. But I'm in North Texas is usually pretty dry here. I just had mine in for a warranty repair for the clogged catalytic converter p430 code, and they replaced the cat and reflashed the computer. Runs leaner now and my mpg went up to 19mpg mixed, up from about mix 16mpg for the first 3 years.
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Old 11-28-2015, 05:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by charles_2000:34415266
I have a 2011 EcoBoost, I changed my plugs at 20k, and it smoothed out the idle. . I have not drilled the.050 hole in the tube. But I'm in North Texas is usually pretty dry here. I just had mine in for a warranty repair for the clogged catalytic converter p430 code, and they replaced the cat and reflashed the computer. Runs leaner now and my mpg went up to 19mpg mixed, up from about mix 16mpg for the first 3 years.
Thanks....... Did you use the SP534 plugs?
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Old 11-28-2015, 06:14 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Regardless of application if you are removing the plugs for ANY reason, you may as well replace them. They are cheap insurance. Just the act of removing them may damage them.
And you have already performed the labor of removing them, so replace them.

Not to mention the factory spec's intervals. Even your 6.0 should have a factory spec'd spark plug change at 80-100k

Most DOHC V6's spark plugs are typically 60k or so.

And before you say "they are still fine at 200+K miles" again...

They are not.

The rig may run "fine" but it isnt running as designed.
Im curious what on the plug is worn out? They gap to new specs, the electrode has not appeared to wear at all.
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Old 11-28-2015, 08:51 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Im curious what on the plug is worn out? They gap to new specs, the electrode has not appeared to wear at all.
Unpossible. Someone has put plugs in it, or you are measuring wrong. OE plugs in LS motors don't wear as quickly as some others, but at 120-130k they have noticable wear.
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Old 11-28-2015, 09:17 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I was messing around today and was surprised how dirty the drop in air filter was, after 5,000 miles

It was nasty, I was ashamed

Are the twin turbos sucking in that much air, I have seen some 10,000 mile old filters that weren't this dirty
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Old 11-28-2015, 09:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Please take pics of oe plugs.
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Old 11-29-2015, 05:57 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Please take pics of oe plugs.
I will when I get the new plugs in from RA
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Old 11-29-2015, 08:56 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I was messing around today and was surprised how dirty the drop in air filter was, after 5,000 miles

It was nasty, I was ashamed

Are the twin turbos sucking in that much air, I have seen some 10,000 mile old filters that weren't this dirty
It depends on where you drive and the air cleaner's inlet location.

It's rare for me to find myself replacing air filters due to clogging up/loaded of dirt, either.

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Old 11-29-2015, 09:58 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I went with the Purolator PureONE Air Filter PA35642.......same filter as the 6.2 Raptor

Height: 2.57"
Length: 10.5"



The MotorCraft #FA1883 is what I am currently using, but the pleats are not deep, at all
Height: 1.730"
Length: 10.470"
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Old 11-30-2015, 01:30 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Unpossible. Someone has put plugs in it, or you are measuring wrong. OE plugs in LS motors don't wear as quickly as some others, but at 120-130k they have noticable wear.
Agreed. I just did mine in my 04 6.0 at 135K miles and they looked original and were very noticeably worn, and it idled like shit. Plus, on mine they changed the gap spec from .060 to .040 because if you run them to 100K (or beyond) the gap gets unreasonably big. I put NGK Iridiums in and they run great.
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Old 11-30-2015, 02:35 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I changed my OE plugs out at 40k miles. My 2012 F150 Ecoboost was experiencing a cold irratic idle and stumbling while accelerating. The new SP534's solved the problem. My OE plugs were gapped anywhere from .030 to .042.

I have not drilled the CAC like you're mentioning. I have had, on 3 separate occasions, experienced the weird shudder when accelerating. The last time it did it, the truck ingested so much water that it went into "Limp" and only ran on 5 cylinders. Dealer did the most recent TSB, put some bullshit plastic piece on the CAC that covered about half the surface and put in a new cylinder 6 plug and coil.

Since then, it hasn't happened again. Seems to be fixed, however the most recent TSB that is suppose to address this issue, de-tunes the truck some for sure.

I change the oil every 7,500 miles with Ford SynBlend and Motocraft filter. Swapped out the OE air filter for the AEM one from Full-Race.
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Old 11-30-2015, 03:44 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info......hopefully the new plugs get the job done

I am going to try the Puralator Pureflo drop in first.......only $16

I will consider the AEM 28-20385 drop in, if needed in the future....... Especially knowing that it's a dry high flow filter for $38
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Old 11-30-2015, 03:59 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I am using synthetic oil, but just normal store bought

Walmart has good prices on full synthetic oil and Mobile One extended oil filters

I wish I knew the part number for Donaldson High Endurance oil filters........ Anyone?
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:04 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I just did the same on my new-to-me 2012...

(6) SP-534's came pre-gapped at .035", so I pinched them down to .030"

(1) Motorcraft Oil Filter, p/n FL500S

(6)qts Motorcraft 5W-30 Synthetic Blend Oil

(1) Motorcraft Air Filter, p/n FA1883

I also drilled a 1/16" hole in the CAC, and did not get anything out of it. Regardless, I pulled it out of the truck and inspected the inside, and did find a pretty nasty residue so I rinsed it out with a strong mix of Simple Green.

Since doing the tune-up I have noticed exactly zero difference in drive-ability or economy, but I wasn't mad at it before, just wanted a good baseline...

I also recently added a UPR Dual Valve Catch Can With CSS, but haven't cracked the valve to see if anything has been captured yet. However, judging by the oily residue on the original air filter, I'm satisfied it will.
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:43 PM   #25 (permalink)
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How much of a pita was it to get the intercooler out?
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