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Old 03-15-2016, 03:38 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Sheep View Post
I sent a request a quote thingy. I'll call when I get the chance.

$3400-3800 for a stock rebuild. 3 year/36k. Fuck that!
That's strange, I paid right at $3000.

There is a place in fort worth that does transmissions for extremely cheap. They rebuilt my buddies allison for like $1200 and he has had nothing but problems. I forget the name, but dont take it to that place lol
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Old 03-15-2016, 03:58 PM   #27 (permalink)
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When you do the trans replace the condenser since it is in front of the trans cooler and when it gets plugged it blocks the airflow to the trans cooler. That's what I did and my trans temp never climbs above 160 on the stock cooler.
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Old 03-16-2016, 12:37 AM   #28 (permalink)
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That's strange, I paid right at $3000.

There is a place in fort worth that does transmissions for extremely cheap. They rebuilt my buddies allison for like $1200 and he has had nothing but problems. I forget the name, but dont take it to that place lol
That's what the man on the phone told me. Gave me the same spiel about it costing more if they find more wrong. Ya, fuck you if a trans kit costs over a grand, pure greed.


There's a place in New Braunfels the offers a 3 year/100k for $3000. Said and fucking done, it is what it is. Think I'll just throw it on a trailer and head down there.
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Old 03-16-2016, 02:50 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Here is $1500 of 12 valve

Saved me that much in fuel the first year.
I had to install my motor, and splice the entire trans harness.
did ball joints,TRE's, a front u joint, tires and brakes.
made 4" exhaust from scrap because it was real loud without.
Pissed $100 of tranny fluid on the ground once.
Seats and doors both been replaced at least once, but at 375K, it drives better than some 100K customer trucks.

I did some other things to make it nicer, but not because I had to.

Last edited by 68K20 x Drill; 03-16-2016 at 02:52 AM.
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Old 03-16-2016, 05:10 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Here is $1500 of 12 valve

Saved me that much in fuel the first year.
I had to install my motor, and splice the entire trans harness.
did ball joints,TRE's, a front u joint, tires and brakes.
made 4" exhaust from scrap because it was real loud without.
Pissed $100 of tranny fluid on the ground once.
Seats and doors both been replaced at least once, but at 375K, it drives better than some 100K customer trucks.

I did some other things to make it nicer, but not because I had to.
thats all good and well. BUT...whats on the trailer!?
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Old 03-16-2016, 03:22 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Its a Palatov DP1 with a full retard electric conversion.
Pretty much an AWD RC car you can shit yourself in.
We were faster than 21 of 23 Teslas that showed up.
pic
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Old 03-17-2016, 06:47 AM   #32 (permalink)
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sorry for the distraction to the thread...

Glad I asked though, thats F'ing awesome!
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Old 03-17-2016, 07:23 AM   #33 (permalink)
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The tough part is you could have bought a 'cherry' one for 15k and STILL dumped 5k into it. That happened to a guy here local on CO4x4. He beat the forums up looking for an OBS ford, and thought he had a killer deal on one. Dumped 10k into it and still wasn't impressed and I think he ended up selling it not too long after.
This is what happened to me, only with a 2nd gen Dodge. I had only owned 1 diesel prior to that truck, and it was for a very short period of time. I learn't my lesson on 2nd gens with that truck. Bought it for 12k from a stealership. Sharp truck, low miles, had all the maintenance upgrades you would want, receipts for everything, so I thought it was a great purchase. 3 months later I put another trans in it. then batteries, then a replacement pump for the aftermarket fuel system, then needed a new steering box since the borgeson busted, and the list just went on for days. The truck was a nightmare. If I would have paid 5-6k for it, totally understand.

Like someone said above, even with low mileage, its still a 15 year old truck that needs 15 year old truck parts replaced, and even when people do replace them, they likely use aftermarket parts that are cheaply built and last half as long if you're lucky.
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An old Explorer with a lot of dents
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Old 03-20-2016, 10:43 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Towed it over 1.5 hours away as I couldn't find a local shop I trusted. Finally found a guy who didn't pull the "depends on what's wrong" bullshit routine. Never understood why BTS, ATS, Suncoast, Monster, Jegs, etc never ask what's wrong with your core, but all these trans shop jackasses want to skate by doing the bare minimum.

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-Transmission dropped off today
-windshield done
-front end rebuild (unit bearings, lockouts, seals, sway bar ends) done
-intercooler boots no leaks after tightened up
-random orings and seals in intake valley same as above
-wheels and tires done
-shocks checked out ok
-repair driver seat undecided
-all fluids and filters done
-batteries done
-door weather stripping glued back in place
- and TT&L title in my name
Need to add:
-door actuators done
-tow mirrors still on the hunt
-driver side window motor (won't roll down all the way) just needed to be cleaned and worked back and forth
-power steering pump and lines it had "burped" and made a mess when i first bought it, ended up being fine after cleaned up and bled.
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:23 AM   #35 (permalink)
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-door actuators
have you tried WD40ing the shit out of them 1st?
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An old Explorer with a lot of dents
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Old 03-21-2016, 01:33 PM   #36 (permalink)
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have you tried WD40ing the shit out of them 1st?
Honestly, I never locked the doors on the truck. Never had to. When I dropped it off I went to hit the lock button and went .

Google fu said actuator and/or tearing it apart and something about a dioide.

I did pull it out of a barn and it hadn't been registered in 3 years, it may be full of dust/dirt.
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Old 03-22-2016, 05:44 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Honestly, I never locked the doors on the truck. Never had to. When I dropped it off I went to hit the lock button and went .

Google fu said actuator and/or tearing it apart and something about a dioide.

I did pull it out of a barn and it hadn't been registered in 3 years, it may be full of dust/dirt.
Its common on the super doodies (and pretty much all fords from the late 90s to mid 2000s). Squirt wd40 or pb blaster in the lock cylinder hole, put the key in and wiggle it back and forth. Do this a few times. Also the cylinder is on the inside of the door at the latch. Lube the latch and the actuator. If that doesn't work, then replace them.
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Old 03-22-2016, 09:53 AM   #38 (permalink)
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OP, this is karma for knocking me down for my new truck logic.
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Old 03-22-2016, 11:50 AM   #39 (permalink)
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OP, this is karma for knocking me down for my new truck logic.
Do tell?
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Old 03-22-2016, 12:32 PM   #40 (permalink)
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OP, this is karma for knocking me down for my new truck logic.
Shut the fuck up.

Lock actuators are simple.
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Old 03-22-2016, 01:07 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Shut the fuck up.

Lock actuators are simple.
Quit 3rd wheelin' just to start shit.





I have went this route for years. Bought an older truck for x amount, end up in. a few years with the purchase price wrapped up into parts. Then I drive it into the no value land, and I'm stuck with a paid investment I can't return.

The only thing you have going for this is the starting cost was way low on such a cosmetically-perfect truck. Just sucks once you dig in all the little nit-pick things that need to be done, and the runarounds you have to experience when fixing said truck, like transmission shops.
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Old 03-22-2016, 04:09 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Quit 3rd wheelin' just to start shit.

I have went this route for years. Bought an older truck for x amount, end up in. a few years with the purchase price wrapped up into parts. Then I drive it into the no value land, and I'm stuck with a paid investment I can't return.

The only thing you have going for this is the starting cost was way low on such a cosmetically-perfect truck. Just sucks once you dig in all the little nit-pick things that need to be done, and the runarounds you have to experience when fixing said truck, like transmission shops.
The only thing? Truck is a cream puff

My only issue was a shop standing by their word for the trans. I can do everything else myself. All the small parts aren't a necessity, I'm just OCD about my personal trucks.

I bought the truck 6 months ago and waited till I had the cash to fix it [relatively] all at once. I would do this 100x over before I went and wasted money on a new gasser GM.

I hate diesel rice, but damn it... does 200/30's & 38R sound like fun. My trans will be good for it
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Old 03-22-2016, 07:09 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Trust me, if I had a crew cab to my avail in that condition, I would too!
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Old 03-22-2016, 08:51 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Honestly, I never locked the doors on the truck. Never had to. When I dropped it off I went to hit the lock button and went .

Google fu said actuator and/or tearing it apart and something about a dioide.

I did pull it out of a barn and it hadn't been registered in 3 years, it may be full of dust/dirt.
This is a really common problem on Superduties, just google it. With my old superduty one of the locks wouldn't work at all. There are a ton of write ups and youtube videos about fixing the actuator with a piece of foil. It worked for me but then I can't remember exactly but I ended up burning mine somehow up so I just replaced it with cheap aftermarket actuator. The cheap one worked great for the year I had the truck before I sold it. Try the foil trick first to see if it fixes it.
Youtube Video
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Old 03-22-2016, 11:34 PM   #45 (permalink)
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This is a really common problem on Superduties, just google it. With my old superduty one of the locks wouldn't work at all. There are a ton of write ups and youtube videos about fixing the actuator with a piece of foil. It worked for me but then I can't remember exactly but I ended up burning mine somehow up so I just replaced it with cheap aftermarket actuator. The cheap one worked great for the year I had the truck before I sold it. Try the foil trick first to see if it fixes it.
Youtube Video
Looks like a PITA. I'm just going to buy new actuators for $20 each an swap them in. I'll solder the stock ones instead of tin foIl , and have them as spares if need be. Thanks for the link.
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Old 03-28-2016, 08:33 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Which sway bar end links should I use? The factory style or the TRE with a zerk?


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Old 03-28-2016, 08:41 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Looks like a PITA. I'm just going to buy new actuators for $20 each an swap them in. I'll solder the stock ones instead of tin foIl , and have them as spares if need be. Thanks for the link.

This. I believe motorcraft cost me under $50. Not worth the hassle down the road with some foil.
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Old 03-28-2016, 08:48 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Just get the cheap ones. They'll last for long enough to get your money out of of them
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Old 03-29-2016, 12:38 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Cheap ones - my factory ones made it to about 170k before they started making noise.
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Old 04-05-2016, 08:18 AM   #50 (permalink)
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just to update:

Out of all the shops from Dallas to San Antonio, Texas Complete Truck Center treated me right.

From the first contact he never bullshitted me. Opened the gate and let me drop the truck off on a Sunday afternoon. Since this is a spare truck, I told him to take his time and picked up the truck 2 weeks later. With all the shitastic 6.0's in his shop, its no wonder why. Even though my truck is stock, I had him build me a HD 4R100 for $2950 out the door with a 3 year parts and labor warranty. Triple disc billet TC, red alto clutches, kolene steels, etc, etc. Everything was done in house.

Told him to give the truck a good once over and let me know if there was anything else that needed attention. He power washed the engine bay, tightened up the clamps, and said I was good. The power steering 'leak' I had... was from when I had to drag the truck around dead when I bought it. The pump apparently "burps" and make a mess of everything. He topped it off and no more whining. It doesn't mark its territory anymore, so I'm happy.

Drove it the 100 miles back to the house without a problem. Shifts firm, and definitely no hunting for gears. Told me if it was too harsh, he would re-adjust it, but I'm diggin' it.

Got the door actuators, sway bars links, and the 02-04 headlamps installed. Not a need, but would still like to buy some tow mirrors and find new driver side seat upholstery. Truck is ready to roll, definitely my new DD.

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