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Old 08-05-2016, 05:10 AM   #26 (permalink)
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If you wait 5 years to change your Dexcool, the radiator will be clogged.
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Old 08-05-2016, 07:23 AM   #27 (permalink)
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I envy you your 6.0 and a 5 speed...
I had a 6.0/5 speed truck. The gear splits weren't great and it didn't pull any better than an auto.
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Old 08-05-2016, 07:27 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Do not do this. Dexcool doesn't cost any more than green, and it works a hell of a lot better. Just replace every 5 years. Green needs to be changed every 2.

I'd guess your fan clutch is working. You're not going to see a huge temp drop with different antifreeze.
BS. Dexcool eats gaskets and clogs heater cores, etc. Flush it out and put in one of the new green global coolants that mixes with anything.
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Old 08-05-2016, 08:54 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Determined my water pump is leaking out the impeller shaft. Going to get it changed and swap the fan clutch next week.

I am keeping the dexcool. /dexcool v conventional rant
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Old 08-05-2016, 12:25 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Determined my water pump is leaking out the impeller shaft. Going to get it changed and swap the fan clutch next week...
Coolant arguments aside, don't forget that the fan clutch engage temperature can be adjusted. Since the first one I tuned over a decade ago, I've since adjusted all of them I've installed. Seems I can always do a little better than the factory and makes sense considering the age of my radiator, fan blade, and engine, not to mention variations in coolant type, cleanliness of components, and the questionable accuracy of OE gauge and sending units (I make adjustments with a very precise old-school mechanical thermometer).
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Old 08-06-2016, 08:06 AM   #31 (permalink)
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.....
Used it this year to drive the camera crew for the Ultimate Adventure. Had a blast, got new 285/70/17 Falken at3s to gain some ground clearance and fit in with the crew. Also lost the old man steps. Changed trans fluid and filter to dex6, changed diff oils, found a leaking wp gasket so changed the wp and filled with new dexcool. .....
Ran into you as we got off the Rubicon on the Tahoma side. Group had two white 4 door JKU, on white JK, black JK, green TJ, red TJ and the FZJ. Good to chat with you and I hope the rest of the trip went well
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Old 08-07-2016, 05:46 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Another vote for a fan clutch, Ive had several of these trucks and at one point or another have put a fan clutch in almost all of them.

Fan clutch is 65.00
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Old 08-16-2016, 09:41 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Ran into you as we got off the Rubicon on the Tahoma side. Group had two white 4 door JKU, on white JK, black JK, green TJ, red TJ and the FZJ. Good to chat with you and I hope the rest of the trip went well
Hey Marc! Hope you guys had a safe trip home, we had a blast on Fordyce and finished the trip without issue.

Got the cooling issue sorted I believe. Went to pull the water pump and after taking off the intake tube noticed the upper hose was leaking. Replaced it and the fan clutch and everything seems to be normal. Hear the fan more now, kicked on a little yesterday in 95* heat with the AC blasting.

My truck didn't come with a steering stabilizer when I got it, not sure if it had one originally. It had a mount on the frame and a hole in the center link. I grabbed a 5/8" bolt and chucked it in the lathe at work, drilled and tapped it for 1/2" bolt and drilled out the centerlink taper to a plain 5/8" hole. Seems to work fine.

Used the shortest Fox stabilizer (FOX-985-24-062), my truck just sorta wandered. I think its mostly operator error, but it sorta helped. Shitty pic:



I have some jeep parts to buy first, but I'm going to spring for the new Fox 2.5 front shocks with DSCs. I really am not convinced the IFPs have enough umph to control the leverage of the torsion bar, so the 2.5s it is. The rear is going to ride like a tank no matter what so I'm going to go with the 2.0s with CD adjusters.
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Old 10-20-2016, 01:03 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Small update:

Got tired of waiting for my uber fancy shocks so just went for some Poly Performance had in stock. Got Fox performance series resi fronts and IFP rears. They ride phenomenally better than blown out stockers. I still think the 2.5s would've been cool, but these are good.

Went to a wine event last weekend here in Paso and they were parking people in the vinyards. Turns out the inch of rain we got that night was enough to turn the roads and clearings into a muddy mess. Luckily we'd driven this thing and not the lady's commuter. Got out without issues from my truck, pissed off the tow truck drivers who were sliding everywhere trying to get drunk yuppies' cars unstuck. Falkens worked great, I was really happy with them.

After that though my alignment had been a little funny. I'm headed down to LA tonight so I thought I'd shake down the front end before heading out. Driver's outer tie rod end: smoked, alignment cams on upper arms: loose, lower ball joints: starting to go out. Poop.

Got the bad end replaced at lunch and taking it to get a aligned before I take off.

So whats the best option here? Keep replacing stock parts with stock parts? I will say it was super easy to swap out. Are the Rare parts tie rod ends enough to not get ruined by an emergency mudfest? Am I just moving the weak link to something else at that point?

I'd like to do more exploring with this thing, dirt roads, etc. Tim ZR2's kit is bitchin, but I'm not willing to commit that much time/effort/money into this. Its my daily driver and tow rig. I have 2 other projects that should get most of my attention.
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Old 12-05-2016, 03:43 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Well, got a bunch of stuff done on this this weekend.

Had a clunk in the front end that I thought was the center link side of the steering stabilizer. It had come loose once before and I loctite'd it, but NOPE.

I don't think its good when you can see the ball joint stud.


Or when the ball joint is coming out of the arm.


So I bit the bullet and got Icon upper control arms. I never want to have a failure like this again. Since I was tearing down the front end I decided to replace the lower ball joints, pads/rotors, and put some Merchant Automotive tie rod sleeves on. I like the sleeve because it uses all stock parts still. Do they actually do anything? I have no idea.





Install went well, pretty straightforward. Just a lot of work. Snapped the stud for the brake line tab, but that was my own fault. Nothing a zip tie couldn't fix.



Also replaced the leaking water pump and a broken ebrake cable. Getting the ebrake pedal out was a pain in the ass, you just have to keep pulling other stuff off. At least Chevy made everything easy to pull and I didn't break any electrical connectors or anything. Moral of water pump story: go ACDelco or OEM.



Got it aligned today and initial reactions to new front end:
-Steering is HEAVY does not want to always return to center. Guessing the uniball needs to move a little bit? Maybe something isn't working like it should?

-Does seem to ride well, but I hadn't driven it in about 2 weeks and it was pretty blown out before.

I'll update after I get some miles on this thing on how the arms are riding. Hoping this thing will stop falling apart for a little while.
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Old 02-22-2017, 06:57 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Well, this thing has been serving DD duties and drug my jeep out to KOH.

I camped out of the back and was overall very pleased with it. Got 10mpg round trip on 550ish miles. Took Tehachapi and if I got it shifted into 2nd before the grade it kept 60 and would accelerate to 65 or 70 no problem. New cooling system worked much better. If I had a heavier trailer, heavier rig, or camper or something I'd definitely be looking for more power and more gearing, but as 80% DD 20% tow rig its perfect with the setup.



The steering has gotten back to normal, after talking to some friends I think the Moog lower ball joints may have been the cause of the sticky steering. It does ride very well and much improved over stock. I think it rides better than our stock '16 Ram at work with the radius arms. It gets a little vibe-y at 70-75 but I think I need to get my tires balanced again.

I still haven't put in the larger trans cooler I bought for it yet and have a question. I just installed a tube and fin cooler on my power steering system in my jeep and the PSC instructions list to not install the cooler with both fittings on the bottom as it traps air. I get the trans fluid drains back into the trans when not in use, but why did GM mount the stock cooler with both fittings down? Is there air in there when running? Should I mount my new cooler with the fittings on the side so the air can bleed itself?
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Old 02-24-2017, 09:33 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Anything "expo" about your camping setup or dud you just put a sleepover no pad down and throw a bag/pillow out and crash?
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Old 02-27-2017, 01:18 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Anything "expo" about your camping setup or dud you just put a sleepover no pad down and throw a bag/pillow out and crash?
Only thing "expo" so far is just an easy little USB/cig lighter outlet from blue sea in the bed. Its perfect for phone charging at night. Can switch it off when not in use. I wired it into the same circuit as the trailer hot with a post terminal near the spare tire.

For KOH I threw my thermarest down on the bed with my bag. Used my trailer box as my cooking table and hung my lantern from the back glass. Worked out ok.

There is also a baja basket from Synergy mounted in the bed above the bed rails. Can stash stuff up off the floor and sleep under it. Here was the setup I had for UA. If I had the chance to do it again I might think about a roof rack over the shell for light gear.



I'd like to do a lot more with it, but my Jeep takes up most of my time. I'll be doing a trip to Washington this summer and will hopefully get some time in on this first.

Link to blue sea setup:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/435...al_USB_Charger
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Old 02-27-2017, 08:14 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Is that a gen-ray-turd in there?
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Old 02-28-2017, 03:10 AM   #40 (permalink)
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You keep mentioning steering issues. If you haven't already, replace your TRE's and check your pitman and idler arms for play. I highly suggest going to the Cognito steering brace setup. I ended up doing all of the above on my truck due to the amount of wear from the inherent steering geometry problems.
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Old 09-15-2017, 08:22 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Do you happen to remember if the Icon upper control arms were for the 2500HD or 1500? The website doesn't list any for a 1500HD.
Nice build.
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Old 09-15-2017, 10:11 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Anything "expo" about your camping setup or dud you just put a sleepover no pad down and throw a bag/pillow out and crash?

Glad you could decipher that drivel. I don't even drink.... Has to be an "autocorrect"?
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Old 09-18-2017, 07:25 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Do you happen to remember if the Icon upper control arms were for the 2500HD or 1500? The website doesn't list any for a 1500HD.
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The 2500HD control arms work for the 1500HD. I cross referenced upper control arm part numbers between the two on rock auto to be sure.

This thing got a new radiator because I still wasn't happy with it getting over 210 just empty and that seemed to fix most of my issues. The temp moves around a lot more just daily driving, thinking the thermostat is a little slow.
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Old 04-05-2019, 06:52 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Really need the power of Pirate right now.

Did a bunch of work in prep for a long tow to Sand Hollow for my bachelor party next week. Have done in the last week or so:
Intake gaskets (was running rough when cold, AC Delco)
Had injectors cleaned at RC Engineering and reinstalled
Spark Plugs (hadn't changed since I'd owned the truck, AC Delco Copper plugs .040 gap)
MSD 8.5mm plug wires (7/8 wires broke when removing old ones)

Had a serious misfire right off the bat after all those things changed. Tried to pull plug wires and pulled apart one of the fancy MSD wires I had just bought.

Replaced it with the one original wire that was good and still had a solid miss.

Diag'd it at work today and had a good air leak between an injector and the intake manifold, cyl 4. Removed rails, o rings looked good still, lubed them and replaced. No more misfire. AWESOME, Utah T-minus 6 days.

Start driving home, 3 miles away, misfire returns (not nearly as bad, mostly under heavy load). FAWK.

Do I need Iridium plugs like I took out? Maybe injectors are working so good they're just way different than computer is used to?

Photo shown is old injector flow rates. New flow rates are all 200cc/min with "excellent" flow rate.

To add insult to injury, seat heaters now have a mind of their own, cause the $700 I just spent on this damn thing wasn't enough.

Plz Halp.

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Old 04-06-2019, 02:21 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Ok, just got home from my shop. Lots of WOT. All smooth and no misses that I could tell. Either my truck likes iridium plugs, plug wires were bad, or I used too much dielectric grease.

Plugs used this time were AC Delco 41-110 at .040 and new MSD super conductor 8.5 wires
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Old 04-06-2019, 07:57 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Ok, just got home from my shop. Lots of WOT. All smooth and no misses that I could tell. Either my truck likes iridium plugs, plug wires were bad, or I used too much dielectric grease.

Plugs used this time were AC Delco 41-110 at .040 and new MSD super conductor 8.5 wires
Check that cylinderís injector connector. Move the wires from one side to another. If it misfires, then donít, replace the connector. Fairly common problem.
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Old 04-08-2019, 05:34 AM   #47 (permalink)
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The seat heaters turning on by themselves was the only issue I ever had with my 2500HD. I never did anything about it since it didnít happen all that often, but I assumed it was a dirty switch.
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Old 04-08-2019, 07:34 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Jeez I feel guilty. My prep plan for the van is add gas. Possibly check air pressure.
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Old 04-08-2019, 08:04 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Ok, just got home from my shop. Lots of WOT. All smooth and no misses that I could tell. Either my truck likes iridium plugs,
The LS motors came from GM with iridiums. Only advantage in reality is they last 100k miles vs 30k for copper ones. Remove the fuse for seat heaters till you have time to fix.
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Old 04-08-2019, 12:33 PM   #50 (permalink)
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I left the battery disconnected overnight and the seat heater deal seems to be better.

Hope it stays that way.

Thanks for the replys everyone, it feels normal now so fingers crossed for my trip.
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