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Old 12-31-2019, 05:03 PM   #1526 (permalink)
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That wasn't during cranking.....

And yeah testing separately was my thought.... But flaps counter dude wasn't worried about it....

So think it could be computer wasn't happy with low voltage even tho it was cranking ok?

Batts are interstate, stickers aren't picked for dates. And I didn't install them.... Probably should just throw two new ones in.

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9.3 resting?

that's well below fully discharged and into one's of them batteries has a bad cell territory.
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Old 12-31-2019, 05:04 PM   #1527 (permalink)
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9.3 resting?



that's well below fully discharged and into one's of them batteries has a bad cell territory.
After a crank or two.... But yeah

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Old 12-31-2019, 05:11 PM   #1528 (permalink)
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They did a load test in the truck..... But only with them connected. I think they are getting tired too. At least 3 years old.
As has been said, one battery is getting low, replace both (and use the "good" one in something else if one can be replaced under warranty).

There should be a sticker with a letter and one or two numbers on each battery (something like G16 or G6), the letter is the month it was built (A=Jan, B=Feb, etc) and the number (or numbers) are for the year it was built (16 or 6 = 2016).

We had a 1999 E350 with the 7.3L diesel that would do that when one of the batteries got weak, wouldn't take much of a jump or charge to get it going, but it wouldn't quite start with one weak battery.

With as much backcounty camping/driving as you do, I would put two new batteries into it. If you only replace the one that tests as "bad" now, you will be replacing the one that currently tests as "good" within a year (and IIRC, the FICM on that truck can get fried from weak batteries, or was that just on the 6.0?).

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Old 12-31-2019, 05:17 PM   #1529 (permalink)
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As has been said, one battery is getting low, replace both (and use the "good" one in something else if one can be replaced under warranty).



There should be a sticker with a letter and one or two numbers on each battery (something like G16 or G6), the letter is the month it was built (A=Jan, B=Feb, etc) and the number (or numbers) are for the year it was built (16 or 6 = 2016).



We had a 1999 E350 with the 7.3L diesel that would do that when one of the batteries got weak, wouldn't take much of a jump or charge to get it going, but it wouldn't quite start with one weak battery.



With as much backcounty camping/driving as you do, I would put two new batteries into it. If you only replace the one that tests as "bad" now, you will be replacing the one that currently tests as "good" within a year (and IIRC, the FICM on that truck can get fried from weak batteries, or was that just on the 6.0?).



Aaron Z
I'll go look!!

But sounds like the consensus is one bad at least. They are probably 4 years old min. I've owned it for 3 and not replaced them.

Cheap insurance to replace them. Of course this was day 5 and my house batteries were super low and grumpy otherwise I could have probably jumped myself.

Anyone found a lithium jump pack that will actually jump a diesel?

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Old 12-31-2019, 05:29 PM   #1530 (permalink)
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But sounds like the consensus is one bad at least. They are probably 4 years old min. I've owned it for 3 and not replaced them.
Yep.

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Anyone found a lithium jump pack that will actually jump a diesel?
I will have to ask at work, they were talking about one that they were saying was good enough to jump start a diesel, but I dont remember if we have it, or if they were just talking about it.

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Old 01-01-2020, 07:57 AM   #1531 (permalink)
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If space isnít an issue the Truck Pac works really well... can get 24v option too, use it all the time on farm equipment.
For a smaller option that can still jump a tractor I use the Noco GB150 - both pricey but you get what you pay for.
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Old 01-01-2020, 09:10 AM   #1532 (permalink)
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If space isnít an issue the Truck Pac works really well... can get 24v option too, use it all the time on farm equipment.
For a smaller option that can still jump a tractor I use the Noco GB150 - both pricey but you get what you pay for.
Do you have a Noco? I was looking at those. Mixed reviews.....

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Old 01-01-2020, 11:11 AM   #1533 (permalink)
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FYI

Typically for PSD you need a sufficient cranking Voltage, RPM, and ICP (psi) readings for the injectors to fire.

If one or more of the three are not met, it will not fire.
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Old 01-01-2020, 11:41 AM   #1534 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=Java;44747956]
Anyone found a lithium jump pack that will actually jump a diesel?
/QUOTE]

I had a lower end noco GB 40 that would fire off my 12 valve when it had a weak battery in winter, granted it wouldn't help if it was dead and it took the whole charge but it was also the 2nd to smallest one they sell so I'd believe the expensive ones would do it


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Old 01-01-2020, 02:17 PM   #1535 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=friskydingo;44748796]
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Anyone found a lithium jump pack that will actually jump a diesel?
/QUOTE]

I had a lower end noco GB 40 that would fire off my 12 valve when it had a weak battery in winter, granted it wouldn't help if it was dead and it took the whole charge but it was also the 2nd to smallest one they sell so I'd believe the expensive ones would do it


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FYI



Typically for PSD you need a sufficient cranking Voltage, RPM, and ICP (psi) readings for the injectors to fire.



If one or more of the three are not met, it will not fire.
Yes, and it was cranking, not really slow or anything, which makes me think something else wasn't happy....

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Old 01-01-2020, 06:13 PM   #1536 (permalink)
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Do you have a Noco? I was looking at those. Mixed reviews.....

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Yep
Only downside Iíve noticed is that it has to sense some voltage to turn on... the truck pac can be hooked straight to leads to ďreplaceĒ a battery, canít do that with the Noco.
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Old 01-02-2020, 10:28 AM   #1537 (permalink)
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Are you charging house batteries at all from the truck batteries. With that big AGM house battery bank the easy solution might be a inter-connect to transfer power?
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Old 01-02-2020, 10:30 AM   #1538 (permalink)
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Are you charging house batteries at all from the truck batteries. With that big AGM house battery bank the easy solution might be a inter-connect to transfer power?
That is the easy solution, if you have not been parked for 5 days and the house bank is dead!

And yes I do have a 600A solenoid I can have set to connect and self jump.

My house batt's are tired it seems, I got them used, probably 5 years old (or more now) and I drew ~200ah out and they were at 10v ish. Bummer.
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Old 01-02-2020, 03:34 PM   #1539 (permalink)
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Honestly I thought you had a charge line but I wasn't about to back and look haha.

Whats the plan for new batteries? Solar no worky in the winter snow huh. 2000w inverter generator seems like a excellent backup option. Convert it to propane or bi-fuel?

I just bought the PowerHorse 3500w inverter gen for boondocking. Pretty impressed so far. I toyed with the single Honda 2200 but it won't run my AC for summer boondocking.
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Old 01-02-2020, 03:40 PM   #1540 (permalink)
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Honestly I thought you had a charge line but I wasn't about to back and look haha.

Whats the plan for new batteries? Solar no worky in the winter snow huh. 2000w inverter generator seems like a excellent backup option. Convert it to propane or bi-fuel?

I just bought the PowerHorse 3500w inverter gen for boondocking. Pretty impressed so far. I toyed with the single Honda 2200 but it won't run my AC for summer boondocking.
New batteries donw the line probably, these still work for now....

No solar doesnt do much sadly.

I have a 2k Honda.... But 1- I hate generator noise, 2- It has to go under the bed, space is at a premium, and it stinks. 3 - It really doesn't charge very fast on it. Like 5 amps IIRC, I could plug it in and test again....

Also we rarely camp for 5 days without ant charging, moving every day or two is the norm.

I am toying with the idea of a enclosure on quick releases for the back bumper, I just need to take some measurements to see if it would fit. It would be real tight between the license plate, tow hooks and tail lights. Unless I build tail lights into the box....
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Old 01-02-2020, 04:16 PM   #1541 (permalink)
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I have a 2k Honda.... But 1- I hate generator noise, 2- It has to go under the bed, space is at a premium, and it stinks. 3 - It really doesn't charge very fast on it. Like 5 amps IIRC, I could plug it in and test again....
How many amps is the charger? Seems like it should charge at a higher rate than that.

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I am toying with the idea of a enclosure on quick releases for the back bumper, I just need to take some measurements to see if it would fit. It would be real tight between the license plate, tow hooks and tail lights. Unless I build tail lights into the box....
I would. Put it on the left side and put 3 grommet lights into it, a 3/4" LR marker, a Brake/Turn/Tail light and a Backup light to match the ones on the other side.
IIRC the left door is opened less and so it wouldn't have to be moved as much.


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Old 01-02-2020, 06:14 PM   #1542 (permalink)
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How many amps is the charger? Seems like it should charge at a higher rate than that.





I would. Put it on the left side and put 3 grommet lights into it, a 3/4" LR marker, a Brake/Turn/Tail light and a Backup light to match the ones on the other side.

IIRC the left door is opened less and so it wouldn't have to be moved as much.





Aaron Z
It's supposed to be 55amps.

Yes I need to do some measuring, but it may just sneak under the door. Just need the marker and stt. I could also do the center and just do the plate and light on it that way.

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Old 01-03-2020, 07:08 AM   #1543 (permalink)
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New batteries donw the line probably, these still work for now....
Do they though? Sounds like without that other person camping next to you that night you would have been stranded.

Gotta let the glow plugs cycle before the first start attempt. If you do that, and the glow plugs work, then it'll start easily, at least my 6.0 does (with fresh plugs).

If your batteries are below 12v before you start cranking, they're either being drained by something, or they're dying/dead. You should be able to sit for at LEAST a week and start without issue, unless the ambient temp is below zero for the whole time.
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Old 01-03-2020, 07:13 AM   #1544 (permalink)
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New batteries down the line probably, these still work for now....

No solar doesnt do much sadly.

I have a 2k Honda.... But 1- I hate generator noise, 2- It has to go under the bed, space is at a premium, and it stinks. 3 - It really doesn't charge very fast on it. Like 5 amps IIRC, I could plug it in and test again....

Also we rarely camp for 5 days without ant charging, moving every day or two is the norm..
Go to a golf cart supplier. They trade out a whole bank at a time. If a cart has (8) x 6V batteries and one or two are out, you could get a deal on the remaining (4) or (6).


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It's supposed to be 55amps.
I'm guessing you're not getting 55A or your house batteries are that dead. If it's a smart charger, it should be giving the batteries 14.4V when they're really low and give it the "fire hose" charge. Then up to ~13.4-13.8V from about 12.4-12.8V, and trickle after that (at which point running a generator to trickle is silly!)

what make of charger?
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Old 01-03-2020, 07:26 AM   #1545 (permalink)
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on a 2000w genset you'll get a full 15a on your 120v circuit.

that's 1800W.
55x14.7 (LA battery bulk charge voltage) is 880w. figure in efficiency losses and it's probably around a kw in to the charger.

a 2000W genset should be more than capable of providing your 55a charger enough watts to do full rate charging.
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Old 01-03-2020, 07:32 AM   #1546 (permalink)
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Do they though? Sounds like without that other person camping next to you that night you would have been stranded.

Gotta let the glow plugs cycle before the first start attempt. If you do that, and the glow plugs work, then it'll start easily, at least my 6.0 does (with fresh plugs).

If your batteries are below 12v before you start cranking, they're either being drained by something, or they're dying/dead. You should be able to sit for at LEAST a week and start without issue, unless the ambient temp is below zero for the whole time.
Sorry was referring to house batteries. New start batteries are likley. They "tested" OK, but I am not sure they guy doing the test knew WTF he was doing. They were still tied together?

Yes I always forgot the glowplugs..... and it always starts fine....

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Go to a golf cart supplier. They trade out a whole bank at a time. If a cart has (8) x 6V batteries and one or two are out, you could get a deal on the remaining (4) or (6).




I'm guessing you're not getting 55A or your house batteries are that dead. If it's a smart charger, it should be giving the batteries 14.4V when they're really low and give it the "fire hose" charge. Then up to ~13.4-13.8V from about 12.4-12.8V, and trickle after that (at which point running a generator to trickle is silly!)

what make of charger?
Its a TrippLite Inverter charger. Its mildy smart ish. This one https://www.tripplite.com/1250w-powe...put~RV1250ULHW

I need to try to generator again. I don't really bring it ever....

Golf carts are generally wet cells aren't they?

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on a 2000w genset you'll get a full 15a on your 120v circuit.

that's 1800W.
55x14.7 (LA battery bulk charge voltage) is 880w. figure in efficiency losses and it's probably around a kw in to the charger.

a 2000W genset should be more than capable of providing your 55a charger enough watts to do full rate charging.
Yes it should be. The whole system was designed around being able to use a standard 15 amp circuit.
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Old 01-03-2020, 09:44 AM   #1547 (permalink)
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golf carts are flooded wet cells generally.

your triplite charger should do fine with a genset, even a square wave one, as they're basically based in UPS chargers, and those are designed to bridge the gap from grid AC to backup generator AC.
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Old 01-03-2020, 09:59 AM   #1548 (permalink)
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Sorry was referring to house batteries. New start batteries are likley. They "tested" OK, but I am not sure they guy doing the test knew WTF he was doing. They were still tied together?
You are correct, they have to be separated to test.

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Old 01-03-2020, 10:04 AM   #1549 (permalink)
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golf carts are flooded wet cells generally.

your triplite charger should do fine with a genset, even a square wave one, as they're basically based in UPS chargers, and those are designed to bridge the gap from grid AC to backup generator AC.
Yes, and I will check the settings it has 14 and 55 amp, pretty sure its on 55, but I will verify.

The problem is the batteries are always full at home!

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You are correct, they have to be separated to test.

Aaron Z
Thanks for that. I kind of figured as much....

Any DIY at home load test options
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Old 01-03-2020, 10:12 AM   #1550 (permalink)
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Dyi load test is as followed.

Seperate the batteries and read the voltage when u try and start the truck. I bet one drops like a stone.
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