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-   -   Box truck to RV conversion. Crew Cab f450 (https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2472929)

Java 02-10-2017 09:27 AM

Box truck to RV conversion. Crew Cab f450
 
I have been half searching for a replacement for our Ski Bum truck (and E350 4x4 winnebago), I love the truck, but the long overhang and fiberglass construction limit me a bit. I had gotten a quote from Tri Van for an all aluminum body for an F450/550, and was keeping an eye out for cab chassis to com up cheap on CL.

Then I found this truck, Nearly the same body I had a quote for, on a 2008 F450 4x4 frame, which had been stretched 36" to allow for nearly no overhang. It was built as a chase truck for a UTV racing team. I wasn't really ready to pull the trigger for a new truck, but this was too good to pass up. Deal was struck and the truck headed to my driveway.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5731/3...8131e44b_z.jpg

About the truck, Its on its second motor, the first owner towed horses with it, she attempted to drive it home after the CEL came on, #8 injector had failed, rod ventilated block. PO bought it, had a local shop drop a long block in and used it to go to Vegas for races a couple times. Then it sat, this is good and bad, it has ~4k miles on the new engine, but it leaks. A fair bit. Oil pan, valve covers and #6 glow plug harness connection. And the dreaded flex joints in the up pipe. Not the end of the world, but a lot of stuff to remove to get to the problem areas. It seems most procedures on these new trucks is cab off or trans out. Fun.


Everyone home in the driveway, I need a bigger driveway for this many large trucks...
https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5531/3...320f2a4b_b.jpg

The box is a bare shell.The cabover is 4' tall. Very high interior roof. First order of business is the roof, two vents were framed in, and covered over with plywood and Plexiglas. They leak. So two Maxxfans were ordered and have arrived!
https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5557/3...02a9e76f_b.jpg

Maxxfans and sealant, first of many parts deliveries.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5706/3...354ba2ea_b.jpg

The back is insulated barn doors. They will be staying. One will be for exterior storage, the other can be opened to the end of the bed if its used in summer. Four 6V 250Ah AGM batteries can be seen here too.
https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5615/3...0b2b32de_b.jpg

Design

Condensed version of our current layout. I think it works pretty well. Toilet will just have a curtain, leave a bit more space at the door. Cabover bed for the kiddo, back bed for us, fixed dinette. Counter space is limited, but will have a fold out over the crawl through, and is across from the dinette table that can be used as well. Small bar sink, three burner RV cooktop, and the space below used for a marine fridge. Exterior storage for skis, other tall stuff at the back. Still debating on propane tank placement, I am thinking two BBQ style tanks on a swing out on the drivers rear.

https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5540/3...962e93d8_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5510/3...cfe1706c_b.jpg

https://c8.staticflickr.com/6/5731/3...f583d434_b.jpg

Plans

First order of business is getting the crawl through, windows and doors framed and cut. The crawl through is going to be a challenge, I have some thinking and blue taping to do still, but it should be doable. Accordion seal will be used there. If anyone has done this I am all ears.

Once the framing is done I will have the entire thing spray foamed. I am still debating on ceiling thickness if anyone has input. Walls will be 1 3/4" foam with 1/4" plywood interior skin. Spray foam will be a big $$ item, but I fell it will be worth it in the long run.

Then its on to interior finishes. Dinette and vertical walls I am thinking will be small steel tubing with a thin plywood skin. Maximizes interior spaces of the compartments that way.

I am leaning towards doing EGR and DPF delete stuff to the engine while I am in there, but it adds a good budget hit. It may be a couple years down the road. Lift is a ways off too, but for most of what we do it should be ok for awhile. FS roads and snow/ice covered roads to ski areas. It has brand new tires that I wouldn't mind using up either.

This will be a very slow build. I am very budget limited, so it will be plugging away a bit at a time as budget allows. I will need to sell the RV come spring, and would like to have this one done shortly after, but I think that may be a lofty goal.

TireFryerSS 02-10-2017 11:13 AM

If you think a grand to do a dpf/egr delete are a hit to your budget, you'll lose your shit when you put another long block in it because one of those 2 items failed. Sct X4 with a good custom tune (gearhead is my choice), straight pipe in place of the dpf/cat, egr delete will get you a truck that will last a lomg time.

I have an 08 350, Im about to find out in the next 10min if Im putting an engine in it at 230k/10k hrs. I deleted it 40k mi ago.

Java 02-10-2017 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TireFryerSS (Post 39823905)
If you think a grand to do a dpf/egr delete are a hit to your budget, you'll lose your shit when you put another long block in it because one of those 2 items failed. Sct X4 with a good custom tune (gearhead is my choice), straight pipe in place of the dpf/cat, egr delete will get you a truck that will last a lomg time.

I have an 08 350, Im about to find out in the next 10min if Im putting an engine in it at 230k/10k hrs. I deleted it 40k mi ago.

Yeah I saw the receipt for the last long block... And he had a dealer buddy do it for cost.... Its got 4k on the reman thats in it now, so I am hoping it can go a few months before I need to do the deletes.

Know what went on yours?

Java 02-10-2017 11:19 AM

hmmmm leaking roof "vent"
https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5583/3...802c416c_b.jpg

Pull off plywood, scrub with MEK
https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5620/3...f42f79cb_b.jpg

MaxxFan shroud, covered in sticky stuff.
https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5344/3...6e17f63c_b.jpg

Roof hole #1 done! Only broke one screw off. Stupid stainless.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5493/3...5e7504d3_b.jpg

Mark13 02-10-2017 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TireFryerSS (Post 39823905)
If you think a grand to do a dpf/egr delete are a hit to your budget, you'll lose your shit when you put another long block in it because one of those 2 items failed. Sct X4 with a good custom tune (gearhead is my choice), straight pipe in place of the dpf/cat, egr delete will get you a truck that will last a lomg time.

I have an 08 350, Im about to find out in the next 10min if Im putting an engine in it at 230k/10k hrs. I deleted it 40k mi ago.

As you know you did good on your truck getting a 6.4 to last that long. Most of the time they hardly make it to 150k and some don't even make it to 50k. The 450 with that overhand on the box should be fun since you can't lift the cab to work on it.



:rolleyes::eek:

Java 02-10-2017 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark13 (Post 39824537)
As you know you did good on your truck getting a 6.4 to last that long. Most of the time they hardly make it to 150k and some don't even make it to 50k. The 450 with that overhand on the box should be fun since you can't lift the cab to work on it.



:rolleyes::eek:

Yeah.... It can be unbolted.... would not be fun....

I have found a lot of things dealer says are "cab off" can be done creatively. up pipes etc can be done, just not real fun in tight spaces.

mwilliamshs 02-10-2017 06:06 PM

The dealer method is just most $ for least hours. There are ways that are less hours and/or more money but the dealer method is to plot an uphill course from labor to profit.

I've really enjoyed your threads on Expo and am glad to have found this one here. Look forward to updates!

DE Jeeper 02-10-2017 07:11 PM

I put about 2" of closed cell foam in our promaster grooming van. It makes a big difference in noise and makes it feel much less of a tin box. I also sprayed and plated the underside of the van. We use a espar d2 heater to keep the van above 50* during tne winter. It does pretty good but if i was going to do it again i would upgrade to a d4 unit. I had my local home insulation company do the spray with their mobile truck and was $750.

I would suggest vinyl over foam covered luan for walls. Would give even better accustics and more insulaton. Did this in the pete sleeper and its dead quite but its a fiberglass box.

Java 02-10-2017 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DE Jeeper (Post 39830617)
I put about 2" of closed cell foam in our promaster grooming van. It makes a big difference in noise and makes it feel much less of a tin box. I also sprayed and plated the underside of the van. We use a espar d2 heater to keep the van above 50* during tne winter. It does pretty good but if i was going to do it again i would upgrade to a d4 unit. I had my local home insulation company do the spray with their mobile truck and was $750.

I would suggest vinyl over foam covered luan for walls. Would give even better accustics and more insulaton. Did this in the pete sleeper and its dead quite but its a fiberglass box.

Thanks for the info! I'm actually a bit ahead of this thread..... I'll get it updated soon!

I did polyiso spray foam, 1.75" in the walls, 3.5" in th ceiling. Using 1/4" ply on the inside.

I was planning to use a 3.5kw webasto diesel heater, is yours a 2k?

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

DE Jeeper 02-10-2017 08:13 PM

Heat output:
7500 BTU on Boost
6150 BTU on High
4100 BTU on Medium
2100 BTU on Low

From espar on the d2 model.

The heater came with the Thermoking apu that is used to power the truck. I really didnt look into that far. I figured it heated a large freight shaker cascadia sleeper, but because it has to heat the space without the help of the truck heater it cycles a whole lot.

Java 02-10-2017 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DE Jeeper (Post 39831385)
Heat output:
7500 BTU on Boost
6150 BTU on High
4100 BTU on Medium
2100 BTU on Low

From espar on the d2 model.

The heater came with the Thermoking apu that is used to power the truck. I really didnt look into that far. I figured it heated a large freight shaker cascadia sleeper, but because it has to heat the space without the help of the truck heater it cycles a whole lot.

Ok thanks! Mine is 11,600 ish btus, I'm hoping that does it!

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Java 02-10-2017 10:17 PM

More small progress. Climbed under, with tarp this time (i managed to park on the non gravel, ie mud section of my driveway), to investigate oil leaks. Headlamp, UV light and torque wrench in hand.

Oil pan bolts are to torque spec (9.5 ft lbs, really?!) but are dripping from the heads around the back of the pan, front looks dry, that makes me thing its seeping past the bolts/threads, but could be running down from above. I just don't see it getting to the heads of the bolts.

Valve cover area on passenger side is wet and running down the block, may be valve cover gaskets, may just be the glow plug harness on that side (DUMB design). Likely both though. Still determining if I want to tackle those or farm it out.

Stripped the interior down. I was getting a bit of water at the back edge of the cabover, need to find it. I had a suspect in mind.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5343/3...a4e6304d_c.jpg

Marker lights were the suspect, and sure enough, you can see the tel tale dribble line coming out the bottom. (there may still be a little coming in from the gutter-body joint, but that is TBD)
https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5483/3...b3801242_c.jpg

Passenger side is better, but still a little drip.
https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5495/3...07c5ac6a_c.jpg

In case anyone is interested, here is how the panels clip together and form the ribs.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5531/3...edfe615d_c.jpg

Brown Santa has been leaving me lots of goodies.

12/3 SJTW for the 12V circuits. I could buy 100' extension cord cheaper than the wire, go figure. Made in the USA too.

14/2 Anchor Marine Tinned cooper wire for the 12V circuits, 250' roll, also Made in the USA.

https://c8.staticflickr.com/6/5342/3...a5f158f1_c.jpg

Also got a switch panel and the interior lights I will be using.

I only had an hour or so, but I started on the cab.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5599/3...6f9e4681_c.jpg

Stripped the back wall.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5527/3...7912e5c7_c.jpg



I knew there were some mice at some point as I found some turds under the back seat.... But they made a home in the middle seat belt housing. No fresh, but stinky mouse pee. Somehow they seemed to have made it above the headliner too... I really didn't want to pull that.

Planning for the pass through, it looks like I can unbolt and slide the box back about 6" I hope thats enough! And of course this is a glued in back window.

painter66 02-11-2017 06:07 AM

At least it not a dodge of that year you have to brake the rear window to get it out. Hope the 6.4 doesn't give you to much trouble. I was looking for a truck just like this for quite a while. I wound up with a all aluminum 5 horse trailer that I converted. I had the roof spray foam insulated and its the best.
https://scontent-dft4-1.xx.fbcdn.net...55&oe=59416873 Build thread http://www.texas4x4.org/projects-for...-hauler-62249/

Java 02-11-2017 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by painter66 (Post 39833905)
At least it not a dodge of that year you have to brake the rear window to get it out. Hope the 6.4 doesn't give you to much trouble. I was looking for a truck just like this for quite a while. I wound up with a all aluminum 5 horse trailer that I converted. I had the roof spray foam insulated and its the best.
https://scontent-dft4-1.xx.fbcdn.net...55&oe=59416873 Build thread http://www.texas4x4.org/projects-for...-hauler-62249/

Back window was glued in.... Stupid.

Nice looking trailer you built!

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Java 02-11-2017 10:01 AM

wiring rough in is just about done. I used that entire 250' roll of 14/2, and i didn't use it for the lighting circuits (18 gauge for the LED's). I didnt quite expect it to go tat fast! I need another 30' probably. Need to run circuit for the heater and water pump still. I will likely run those ousisde the wall later on.

Door and double pane windows have been ordered too!
https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5547/3...4f6a246a_b.jpg

https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5559/3...47af967c_b.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5478/3...80c078ed_b.jpg


Two main areas for the elec, under the bed, where the batteries, inverter/charger fuse panel and breakers will live, and the end of the cabinets of the opposite side, where all the switches will be. The rest is lighting circuits, and conviniance plugs. I need to figure out a way to keep the end of the wires poking oout of the walls/ceilings where I want them, duct tape may work, but the entire inside of the box is covered with frost at the moment, its cold out...

I got some rigid insulation to start furring the ceiling down with as well!

A little more every day is the idea right?

One table saw, one sheet of 3/4 ply turned into little pieces.
https://c8.staticflickr.com/6/5616/3...975efde9_b.jpg


Got one wall almost done. It was butt berkeleying cold. The missing areas are doors/windows.
https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/284/31...c56d9e71_b.jpg

Java 02-11-2017 07:07 PM

So I tried insulating the aluminum channels. That was a failure. The foam would only expand ~6" either side of the hole, no matter how much you tired to pump in. Im not going to put a 15/64 hole very foot.... Looks like they will remain uninsulated unless someone has a genius idea. Thoughts? I am trying to avoid cold bridging.

You can see the foam puking out of the holes in a few spots here. That stuff was not cheap.

https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/505/30...7870f51b_b.jpg

Got the ceiling channels filled at least.
https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/634/31...802bac96_b.jpg

Box of goodies is growing
https://c5.staticflickr.com/1/70/311...722132af_b.jpg

Battery interconnect cables. Check, CL score.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/1/639/31...61a1bf83_b.jpg

Got an on demand hot water tank on Ebay, killer price, should be a nice unit, 60K btu's.

Elwenil 02-11-2017 07:25 PM

If you are talking about the channels you showed above and called them ribs, wouldn't filling the space in between be a little pointless for preventing cold bridging? The metal is all touching so I would think that the temperature change would be transferred through the metal itself rather than the air gap in a little channel. I would think you would want to insulate the metal from in the interior airspace completely and not worry so much about what is surrounded by the metal that outside air can touch. Maybe I'm not thinking about this right but it seems logical.

Java 02-11-2017 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elwenil (Post 39840073)
If you are talking about the channels you showed above and called them ribs, wouldn't filling the space in between be a little pointless for preventing cold bridging? The metal is all touching so I would think that the temperature change would be transferred through the metal itself rather than the air gap in a little channel. I would think you would want to insulate the metal from in the interior airspace completely and not worry so much about what is surrounded by the metal that outside air can touch. Maybe I'm not thinking about this right but it seems logical.

Nope your right, that was the conclusion I came up with too. I didn't end up filling them

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ennored 02-11-2017 07:57 PM

Heat rise
 
Might be too late, as you mention being sprayed already, but remember, heat does not rise, hot AIR does.

So it's important to insulate in all directions, make sure your floor is insulated similar to the rest of the box.

Java 02-11-2017 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ennored (Post 39840521)
Might be too late, as you mention being sprayed already, but remember, heat does not rise, hot AIR does.

So it's important to insulate in all directions, make sure your floor is insulated similar to the rest of the box.

I plan in insulating the floor as well! Likely polyiso sheets cut to fit the floor structure. Haven't gotten there yet. Have woken up to plenty of frost covered floors in the old truck, it wasn't insulated at all.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Zi 02-12-2017 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 39824073)
Roof hole #1 done! Only broke one screw off. Stupid stainless.

Put a dab of anti-seize on stainless hardware to prevent galling when you tighten it. Then anti-seize will still be there if you ever need to take the hardware out. If you know you'll never be removing it, use blue loctite instead. It works as a lubricant during installation.

Java 02-12-2017 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zi (Post 39845089)
Put a dab of anti-seize on stainless hardware to prevent galling when you tighten it. Then anti-seize will still be there if you ever need to take the hardware out. If you know you'll never be removing it, use blue loctite instead. It works as a lubricant during installation.

Yeah I should have. I didn't pre drill that one hole big enough. Hopefully they don't need to come back out since they will nicely galvanize themselves in place...

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Java 02-12-2017 11:35 AM

My door showed up, but the UPS guys had their way with it :mad:, edges are good and dented in a few places....
https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/216/30...1f48f520_b.jpg

Picked up a used inverter/charger as well, only 1250 watts, but should run a microwave (i hope!). Charges at 55 amps, a bit slow there as well, but the price was right. Came with a 200A Blue sea breaker too.
https://c6.staticflickr.com/1/735/31...9c09dec4_b.jpg

Whats in the crate?

https://c8.staticflickr.com/1/531/31...45068580_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/617/31...2c26b36a_b.jpg

Windows!!! Not fancy flush pane ones, but they are double pane insulated ones, they latch and slide very nicely, I am very happy.

https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/261/32...4c2d46a9_b.jpg

Java 02-12-2017 02:17 PM

headliner dropped and moved forward.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/747/31...7bfb7c7e_b.jpg

No going back now! It was a bit scary to take a sawzall to my new truck.... Rough cut in the box.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/1/641/32...83aa4131_b.jpg

Window out, got 3/4 of the way around, then it broke... ugh
https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/743/31...771e2965_b.jpg

Yikes!
https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/673/31...ac0c3b64_b.jpg

Need to cut the inside lip down to 1/2" still. Ran out of blades.
https://c5.staticflickr.com/1/626/32...b0dc1997_b.jpg

Window infill pieces, ran out of time today....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/345/31...91dac7b6_b.jpg

Java 02-13-2017 10:49 AM

Cut....

https://c5.staticflickr.com/1/306/31...964a8c98_b.jpg

Hole....

https://c8.staticflickr.com/1/562/32...6105da9f_b.jpg

Door!
https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/288/32...f34b6a78_b.jpg


Got the window infill panels done. Used the cutout from the box! Has a rib on either piece, makes a nice stiff panel.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/432/32...a409d743_b.jpg

Almost done! Cutting the last bit of the cab and box.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/603/32...298640cc_b.jpg

done, that was a bitch!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/279/32...742499f8_b.jpg

Whatever aluminum they used for the floor is HARD
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/343/31...a286e20f_b.jpg

DE Jeeper 02-13-2017 11:37 AM

Where did u get the windows? Need to replace the ones on the pete sleeper and was looking for something better then a single pane slider.

Java 02-13-2017 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DE Jeeper (Post 39856753)
Where did u get the windows? Need to replace the ones on the pete sleeper and was looking for something better then a single pane slider.

These guys, Boat Windows, Rv Windows | Motionwindows.Com, not cheap, but they would make them any size I wanted. Mine are all weird sizes.

Java 02-13-2017 11:43 AM

Starting on the gasket.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/756/32...c32700f7_b.jpg

all done
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/267/31...bbde9e16_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/675/32...99f4f8b3_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/389/32...960a5ceb_b.jpg

Connected! just need to get the cab vents back in now.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/488/32...9d440cdb_b.jpg

GLTHFJ60 02-13-2017 02:03 PM

That is awesome.

watahyahknow 02-13-2017 03:46 PM

dont think you can prevent a coldbridge by insulating the inside of an aluminium profile , the cold will just conduct around the insulation through the metal
wat you can do is put foam tape or a thin sheet of polystyreen over the alu box section before putting on the inside walls
think if you want to do foam insulation inside the walls you could try to get 2 pack foam mix it realy fast and poor it in from the top between the inner and outer wall before it goes off (the expanding foam has enough forse to push the walls apart if you put too mush in there and it will gleu everything together so you whont be able to get the wall of without using excessive force ) or spray the whole inside with foam before shaving it mostly flat and then finish the inside walls
there you tube vids on those that i cant post for you at this moment due to forum politics

as for the cab off repairs : the overhead on the box prolly will make that tricky
maibe you can do a temporary hockey puck style bodylift kit so you have a little more room to work

Java 02-13-2017 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLTHFJ60 (Post 39858353)
That is awesome.

Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by watahyahknow (Post 39859521)
dont think you can prevent a coldbridge by insulating the inside of an aluminium profile , the cold will just conduct around the insulation through the metal
wat you can do is put foam tape or a thin sheet of polystyreen over the alu box section before putting on the inside walls
think if you want to do foam insulation inside the walls you could try to get 2 pack foam mix it realy fast and poor it in from the top between the inner and outer wall before it goes off (the expanding foam has enough forse to push the walls apart if you put too mush in there and it will gleu everything together so you whont be able to get the wall of without using excessive force ) or spray the whole inside with foam before shaving it mostly flat and then finish the inside walls
there you tube vids on those that i cant post for you at this moment due to forum politics

as for the cab off repairs : the overhead on the box prolly will make that tricky
maibe you can do a temporary hockey puck style bodylift kit so you have a little more room to work

Yeah I came up with the same conclusion. I left them alone. The ply strips have a slight R value, Im hoping thats enough. Its done now...

Java 02-13-2017 08:26 PM

Just about caught up on this thread now...

More big holes this weekend!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/601/31...fe29b31b_b.jpg

Window is just temped in, so the red tape is water proofing...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/524/32...817cc431_b.jpg

One next to the door too, hard to get a pic as its next to the garage.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/275/31...b97694af_b.jpg

Opens the inside up a bit!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/711/32...a6b3ab3d_b.jpg

Said good bye to my little trailer too :( That was my first big fab project.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/431/32...d823cc8c_b.jpg

Java 02-14-2017 10:34 AM

Long list before insulation.... Got a little more done last night.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/734/31...88bca945_b.jpg

Reinforced the large window. It was a little floppy, and I didn't wan the spray foam to hold it crooked. Used a piece of oak there.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/331/31...0408093c_b.jpg

List, done. Way more of a thrash than I was expecting. All the little stuff adds up...

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/292/32...9f080e30_b.jpg

All the furring s done, all the wires wrapped, taped, glued in place.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/419/32...7e2d352a_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/332/32...e33064b0_b.jpg

Importpower99 02-14-2017 11:09 AM

Nice work, subscribed so i can follow your progress

TireFryerSS 02-14-2017 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 39824033)
Yeah I saw the receipt for the last long block... And he had a dealer buddy do it for cost.... Its got 4k on the reman thats in it now, so I am hoping it can go a few months before I need to do the deletes.

Know what went on yours?

Just found out last fri. #1 piston is dead. We think an injector tip blew off dumped fuel in and melted the piston. I have other weak injectors as well. So its getting pulled and rebuilt, new injectors and possibly a couple other goodies if its in the budget.

If you're not driving the truck too much since youre building the inside of the box, then you're okay. But you start loading it up and traveling, imo its just more premature damage to a good engine. Besides, you think it runs strong now, wait till all the bs is gone and its got a good tune in it :smokin:

Java 02-14-2017 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TireFryerSS (Post 39869937)
Just found out last fri. #1 piston is dead. We think an injector tip blew off dumped fuel in and melted the piston. I have other weak injectors as well. So its getting pulled and rebuilt, new injectors and possibly a couple other goodies if its in the budget.

If you're not driving the truck too much since youre building the inside of the box, then you're okay. But you start loading it up and traveling, imo its just more premature damage to a good engine. Besides, you think it runs strong now, wait till all the bs is gone and its got a good tune in it :smokin:

Thanks for checking back in!

It was the #8 that took a shit on this on of the previous engine. They thought the injector stuck. Rod ventilated the block.

Yeah tuners are just crazy money at the moment. I need to get it usable first. I will do it eventually but i need to come up with the $ first.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

MT4Runner 02-14-2017 02:06 PM

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/711/32...a6b3ab3d_b.jpg

So much room for activities!

Java 02-14-2017 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 39872361)

Haha sadly the kid gets that bed. But yeah its almost 4' tall.

a bit more....

Progress!

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/345/32...904dee97_b.jpg

Now for the nasty part... Grinding it all flat.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/272/32...2ca5494c_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/257/31...1523e787_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/748/32...1aeae01d_b.jpg

GLTHFJ60 02-15-2017 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 39872393)
Now for the nasty part... Grinding it all flat.

Damn! I bet it feels warmer already. Did you pay a company to do that or did you have the equipment to spray yourself?

Java 02-15-2017 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLTHFJ60 (Post 39880953)
Damn! I bet it feels warmer already. Did you pay a company to do that or did you have the equipment to spray yourself?

Yeah 4" cup grinders.... Foam is too hard for anything else apparently.

I paid someone else to do it, and I am glad I did! Two guys in there for a couple hours grinding. I looked into the diy spray foam kits, it was $360 more to have someone else deal with it.

Java 02-15-2017 08:29 AM

Trying to catch this thread up.....

Annnnd Done!!!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/655/32...1e19b465_b.jpg

First panel up
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/712/32...a067dbdb_b.jpg


Got another sheet on the wall last night. Aiming for one a night for the weekdays.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/385/32...1d1031bc_b.jpg

One more panel!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/484/31...8017afae_h.jpg


And the heater getting a bench run. Cant decide if I want to do a separate tank or pull from the main tank.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8208/2...e8f6ca25_h.jpg

DE Jeeper 02-15-2017 12:06 PM

Go to the main tank. Done it this way on 2 different trucks. Just leave the tube 1" off the bottom.

Btw they have a priming sequence when i hook it up and it says u need a special harness but i made my own harness with a flasher relay and a standard relay harness.

Java 02-15-2017 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DE Jeeper (Post 39884721)
Go to the main tank. Done it this way on 2 different trucks. Just leave the tube 1" off the bottom.

Thanks for the input, Im kinda leaning the other way.... Id like to be able to run kerosene for higher altitudes if needed.

My thinking currently is to add a door (like used for basement storage on an RV etc) here

https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3736/3...d0966b63_z.jpg

Its dead sapce there, and use a 6.5G boat tank in a cradle to fuel the heater. It gets 6.4 hours run time on 1G diesel, so it would be good for quite some time.

The other option is use a fuel cell there, but then I need access from the floor under the bed to fill. Not wild about that.

Early CJ tank many also be a good option for that spot.

http://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-si9xy/...0.1280.jpg?c=2

ben2go 02-15-2017 02:10 PM

Is there any way to insulate the floor from underneath? Maybe add solar board to the current floor and then install finished flooring on top. I'm not sure if 1-inch insulating foam would hold up to a finished floor on top of it, without wood support. That could get a bit time consuming to install, depending on your technique and speed.

Java 02-15-2017 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 39886209)
Is there any way to insulate the floor from underneath? Maybe add solar board to the current floor and then install finished flooring on top. I'm not sure if 1-inch insulating foam would hold up to a finished floor on top of it, without wood support. That could get a bit time consuming to install, depending on your technique and speed.

Yes there is, the floor is 2x3 box tubing, I will eventually fit rigid foam in from below and sheet it with some sort of sheet metal. The floor will get a foam underlayment, but it doenst add my insulation, its a little though. Our past truck's floor wasnt insulated and frost on the floor sucks.

ben2go 02-15-2017 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 39886225)
Yes there is, the floor is 2x3 box tubing, I will eventually fit rigid foam in from below and sheet it with some sort of sheet metal. The floor will get a foam underlayment, but it doenst add my insulation, its a little though. Our past truck's floor wasnt insulated and frost on the floor sucks.

Good deal.

Java 02-16-2017 10:41 AM

Cleaned the garage last night. I now have about about 6'x15' of usable space. Soon to be cabinet shop.... Also found out the cabover is still leaking.... Ugh. We got more than an inch of rain yesterday, once it drys out a bit Ill have to caulk it from the outside.

Knocked out the bed frame. Its dimensions kinda drive everything.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2179/3...0f825e73_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3913/3...5c3af0ed_b.jpg

Java 02-16-2017 10:47 AM

Put about 70 miles on it Sunday, picked up the ceiling material. Its going to be knotty cedar T&G. Smells delicious! But it was smoking again, I think it may be leaking oil onto the exhaust, but it seems to do it randomly. I need to crawl under it again and see whats up.

Drivers Side wall done
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/305/32...7a98b937_b.jpg

Ceiling started. Definitely a rustic cabin kinda look.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/306/32...0153de31_b.jpg

Test fit one of the lights Ill be using. I hope they are enough light! They are 3W 120lm each.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/263/32...672ba086_b.jpg

I was trying to get the two windows I have cut in yesterday as we are supposed to get 2" of rain today... I have had a cold coming on, and that sure didn't happen.....

I did get one in, and it was not fun. Turns out my walls are only 1 7/8" thick, not the 2" I planned on. And to make things worse the foam was a bit thin around the windows, this let the plywood bend in even more. So I have to cut a bunch of shims, and make things kinda the right thickness again. Then.... The wall has a big bow in it, vertically. So I couldn't just use the foam strip to install the window. Its glued in like a berklyer now. After getting that in I was spent. The good news is my new patterning bit for the router work great at cutting the holes.

Hole cut
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/443/32...fdfd5c3b_b.jpg

Window in
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/515/32...69f5ddf9_b.jpg

it got dark....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/537/32...c8caf2c4_b.jpg

My stairs came though, and they fit in the under body box! It was close, but they fit.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/598/32...1f87c580_b.jpg

I also picked up a battery combiner, its rated for 200A continuous, so it should be up to the task. Another CL score, $20!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/337/31...f4400221_b.jpg

gavan 02-16-2017 12:15 PM

Diesel/Kero isn't all that happy about sitting around for a long time. One of the big reasons to pull off the main tank. Put a bad tank with some algae in it and it's going to be much more of a mess after sitting . If nothing else make sure to add some algae killer over the summer.

Java 02-16-2017 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gavan (Post 39896929)
Diesel/Kero isn't all that happy about sitting around for a long time. One of the big reasons to pull off the main tank. Put a bad tank with some algae in it and it's going to be much more of a mess after sitting . If nothing else make sure to add some algae killer over the summer.

Yeah I put some conditioner in the last tank (one of the 911 winter ish ones, i dont remember exactly). I am still thinking two tanks as running kero in the heater will keep it from sooting up as quick at altitude.

hmmmmm Main tank pickup could be done with a switch for the second tank when needed. Ugh.

Dropping the tank doesnt sound like fun at the moment either.

Java 02-19-2017 10:29 AM

Since the old ship has sailed, time to kick it in gear.

Good bye old friend. You will be missed.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2550/3...e7bb5260_b.jpg

Since its the time of the year it usually rains in the PNW, dry weekends must be used to their fullest.

I was in a bit of a hurry, so not too many pics.... But window #2 is installed.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2340/3...8160258a_b.jpg

Window #3, drill 4 big holes. Connect the dots.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3845/3...e031b133_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/663/32...90a96789_b.jpg

Cut and fit interior panels.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2330/3...2765c5a4_b.jpg

Slap in window.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2300/3...0091bedd_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2581/3...f2937699_b.jpg

Stair bracket on.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2075/3...43ed8977_b.jpg

Stairs. Yeah my garage is a mess and very full...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/602/32...fed947f3_b.jpg

bigun 02-19-2017 10:36 AM

Looking good! At least you have a garage!!

Java 02-19-2017 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigun (Post 39924761)
Looking good! At least you have a garage!!

Very true! I sure wish it was big enough to get this beast in!

Welded up my interior walls yesterday, made them 1/2" too big...

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

pitchitpitchit 02-20-2017 07:50 AM

You get the leak sorted out?

Java 02-20-2017 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pitchitpitchit (Post 39932201)
You get the leak sorted out?

I think so, it was raining like hell yesterday. Looks like it was the rivets on the gutter around the front

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Java 02-20-2017 08:50 AM

Fridge acquired. They only had one left in stock locally so it was snapped up. Isotherm (made by webasto) 4.7 cu ft drawer unit, which will be nice as its under the counter top, no getting on your knees to see in the bottom shelf. Its REALLY nice.... But my wallet hurts. Its a DanFoss compressor, 12v and 120V, burns 429 watts/24hr on avg.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/494/32...eb94edc2_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2583/3...868082d8_z.jpg

Made a little time lapse of the weekend.

[video=youtube;jT-EPChY_Xs]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jT-EPChY_Xs&feature=youtu.be[/video]

At the start of the weekend.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2654/3...f41a2f56_b.jpg

Wrapped up the ceiling
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2666/3...98cee25d_b.jpg

Sanded and stained last night. Changing color
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3753/3...73144b8c_b.jpg

First coat done
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2076/3...f908eb7f_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2598/3...b3103bfc_b.jpg

87manche 02-20-2017 09:34 AM

I feeeex


Java 02-20-2017 09:35 AM

Thanks!!

87manche 02-20-2017 09:41 AM

black star tip.

copy just the video ID tag from the youtube url
Yours there is:
jT-EPChY_Xs

put that inbetween the youtube tags
Code:

[yoxtube]jT-EPChY_Xs[/yoxtube]
for black star embed.
replace x with u obviously, but evcen in the code section it embedded, so I changed it so you could see the text.

Java 02-20-2017 09:45 AM

Got a bit done this weekend.

I love these splices. Crimp on, self adhesive shrink wrapped. Good stuff.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3688/3...7912c822_b.jpg

Got the LED exterior light done.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/587/32...5b87c996_b.jpg

Fan trims and interior pucks in.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/565/32...8187734c_b.jpg

I had to hook them up to see if it was going to be enough light. I was worried it wouldn't be as they are quite small. Its a good amount of light!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2130/3...a4512473_b.jpg

Started framing up the rear storage/wall. Its 1" .072 steel, this give me a 1" area I can insulate, and gives me some structure to support the bath wall from.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3773/3...08928803_b.jpg

In place. This will be the exterior storage.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2895/3...c30661aa_b.jpg

Bathroom wall and bed frame just about done. Cutting stupid angles wiht a skill saw sucks.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2394/3...a1d96867_b.jpg

18" clear under the bed frame for storage. The plan is to have it lift up for access from inside.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/606/32...0b73a302_b.jpg

And that catches up this thread! ok we will slow down to real time updates now...

87manche 02-20-2017 09:49 AM

not sure where you're getting them, but i've found these equal to the 3m splices at 1/4 the cost
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DBJ0VE6...487609308&sr=1

Java 02-20-2017 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87manche (Post 39933753)
not sure where you're getting them, but i've found these equal to the 3m splices at 1/4 the cost
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DBJ0VE6...487609308&sr=1

I got a similar pack of amazon. The 3m ones are way over priced.... Did those ones come with the box?

87manche 02-20-2017 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 39933769)
I got a similar pack of amazon. The 3m ones are way over priced.... Did those ones come with the box?

yep. just like the picture.
I was getting them from a place called beetrie on amazon, but it looks like this is the newly named replacement. Looks like the same stuff.

The ones I have take an extraordinary amount of heat.

Java 02-20-2017 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87manche (Post 39934225)
yep. just like the picture.
I was getting them from a place called beetrie on amazon, but it looks like this is the newly named replacement. Looks like the same stuff.

The ones I have take an extraordinary amount of heat.

Yeah these ones take a ton of heat to melt also.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

87manche 02-20-2017 10:56 AM

I'm not even mad. When I first bought them I tried to melt one. Whatever they're made of is super high temp polyolefin. You can't actually burn it, it just chars.

so at least you know if one gets hot it won't self immolate.
That was the #1 complaint on them in the reviews. "I can't get it to shrink!", well you're not gonna do it with a damned hair dryer.
I wired my trailer with them 18 months ago, not a single failure. longest i've ever had working trailer lights without fucking with them.

MT4Runner 02-21-2017 08:42 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Maybe think about a removeable 8" wide "draft stop" panel (red) to bridge the small gap between your "outside storage wall" and the driver's side rear door.

When you open the passenger side door to access outside storage/stow skis, etc. you don't want to let all your inside heat out, have your pillow fall out and hit the ground, or have blowing snow fly in and onto your bed.

Or you could do an entire "headboard" panel (green) so you can access the under-bed storage from outside without exposing the bed....and so your head isn't sleeping next to cold aluminum.

Java 02-21-2017 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 39943873)
Maybe think about a removeable 8" wide "draft stop" panel (red) to bridge the small gap between your "outside storage wall" and the driver's side rear door.

When you open the passenger side door to access outside storage/stow skis, etc. you don't want to let all your inside heat out, have your pillow fall out and hit the ground, or have blowing snow fly in and onto your bed.

Or you could do an entire "headboard" panel (green) so you can access the under-bed storage from outside without exposing the bed....and so your head isn't sleeping next to cold aluminum.

Thats damn funny. Thats exactly what I built last night. it ended up being about 11" though :flipoff2:

Im doubting the doors being insulated, even though the PO said they were, they get fogged up really fast when your working in there. May have to drill a hole to find out. I was thinking of adding a piece of 1/2" foam board to them and skinning it. Look a little nicer and add a bit more insulation.

MT4Runner 02-21-2017 03:32 PM

Great minds and all...:flipoff2:

I apparently need to recalibrate my eyes! :D

Java 02-21-2017 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 39949345)
Great minds and all...:flipoff2:

I apparently need to recalibrate my eyes! :D

No I didnt take any pics of it yet! :D

MT4Runner 02-21-2017 03:58 PM

Referring to my mis-gauging the 11" dimension as 8" from your photo. ;)

Java 02-21-2017 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 39949633)
Referring to my mis-gauging the 11" dimension as 8" from your photo. ;)

Ah! :smokin:

Java 02-21-2017 10:18 PM

Here is the panel :flipoff2:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2005/3...953a5c44_b.jpg

Got the benches cut and partly together
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2011/3...e772de95_b.jpg

And i have enough scraps of maple 1x3's for the kitchen cabinet face frame!

Java 02-23-2017 09:34 AM

Got a fair bit done yesterday.

Cabinet will separate the bed/dinette area. The bottom will have a pull out drawer for trash and recycle. The middle will be a pantry drawer, and the top will be a shelf open to the dinette side. It also created the back and base of the bench seat.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3742/3...376fdf7a_b.jpg

Bench sitting in place. Heater or water tank will go here. Like heater so its closer to the center of the truck, but that means small water tank..... Thoughts on heater not close to center? It would go right at the front wall, under the other bench.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2429/3...431e2ef2_b.jpg

All together
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3676/3...775def32_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2926/3...920dc55b_b.jpg

MT4Runner 02-24-2017 08:23 AM

What is the plan for your heater? Are you doing a Webasto like everyone else recently?

Sorry I don't recall.



I'm really diggin' the blonde maple paneling.

Java 02-24-2017 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 39978993)
What is the plan for your heater? Are you doing a Webasto like everyone else recently?

Sorry I don't recall.



I'm really diggin' the blonde maple paneling.

Yup, doing a older webasto 3500 I found on CL. I have had it for a year or so now...

Yeah I think its coming out well. Its a lot of wood on wood on wood at the moment though.

Spent an hour or so trying to figure out why my reverse lights dont work... Fuse is good, swapping relays made no difference. Im getting ~half a volt at the light connections.

So possibly a break in the wire somewhere, which I think is unlikely, all the rest of the wiring has been impeccable, and the tail lights still work, or the reverse switch at the trans is toast.

Other half of the dinette sitting in place
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3876/3...657a10dc_b.jpg

Im thinking heater and water pump will go here, just have to check that I can sneak the intake and exhaust out, its right above the gas tank. I will have to build a riser for the heater to sit on as well, not quite enough room with gas filler box there.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2940/3...0a787b1e_b.jpg

Stove came too, ebay special with dents... But its got a nice flip down glass top for when its not in use.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3763/3...e0fe0dd9_b.jpg

Pulled the tail light panels. Lots of room there. Need to figure out how to put them on a quick release. Ill take ideas there!! Passenger side will get poop tank, drivers will get gas tank for the heater.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2098/3...3bc9c5c2_b.jpg

crazybluerider 02-24-2017 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 39979233)
Pulled the tail light panels. Lots of room there. Need to figure out how to put them on a quick release. Ill take ideas there!! Passenger side will get poop tank, drivers will get gas tank for the heater.

Why not hinge them with a tire carrier style latch on one side? Then you wouldn't have to remove the entire piece.

Java 02-24-2017 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazybluerider (Post 39979265)
Why not hinge them with a tire carrier style latch on one side? Then you wouldn't have to remove the entire piece.

Hinge is a thought. I was thinking about using these, but they are all 1" minimum grip area.

http://www.terradaptor.com/uploaded-...mentPoint8.png

lunacy 02-24-2017 01:03 PM

hold them in there with magnets stuck to the angles?

Java 02-24-2017 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lunacy (Post 39981889)
hold them in there with magnets stuck to the angles?

Light panels are aluminum.... And I'm not sure I would trust just magnets to hold them there

Elwenil 02-24-2017 01:12 PM

Hinge them and latch with a Dzus fastener or something similar.

Java 02-24-2017 01:15 PM

I was just looking at these, might be just the ticket with a piano hinge on one side.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....L._SL1024_.jpg

johny5.0 02-26-2017 07:19 AM

Love the build . Really got me thinking about my next build.

dzntzhellfire 02-26-2017 08:33 AM

Something nice and clean like everyone uses on their buggy panels. Sure you can find them cheaper.


JEGS Quarter-Turn Fasteners | JEGS

Java 02-27-2017 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johny5.0 (Post 39996281)
Love the build . Really got me thinking about my next build.

Thanks!!

Here is a floor section for anyone curious, aluminum, some coating (the grey), then a boat load of bed liner.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/564/32...a1f8f417_b.jpg

Java 02-27-2017 10:58 AM

Cut hole for heater intake and exhaust
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3876/3...02f0c81f_b.jpg

Bolt down heater and run exhaust.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3841/3...9b3388cf_b.jpg

Put the slats on the bed. One skinny one since math is hard.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2925/3...6159179a_b.jpg

Four fucking heavy batteries.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/568/32...5ba08c32_b.jpg

Harness mounts make great battery mounts too
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/585/33...41434b29_b.jpg

Started wiring.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3719/3...4725b9e6_b.jpg

Elwenil 02-27-2017 11:24 AM

Please tell me the ratchet straps are only temporary.

Java 02-27-2017 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elwenil (Post 40008033)
Please tell me the ratchet straps are only temporary.

They were not temporary.... Unless you can give me a reason otherwise.

TireFryerSS 02-27-2017 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40008089)
They were not temporary.... Unless you can give me a reason otherwise.

Because the webbing tends to stretch and deteriorate over time. Then it comes loose at the worst possible time.

Java 02-27-2017 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TireFryerSS (Post 40008329)
Because the webbing tends to stretch and deteriorate over time. Then it comes loose at the worst possible time.

Ah I see. Even when protected from UV? I did put a piece of foam under the batteries to help with stretch and Insulate it a bit.

I guess I'll think on it. I thought they would work well.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Elwenil 02-27-2017 12:04 PM

Ratchet straps are just about one step above bungie cords. A typical set of J-bolts and a bracket across the top is the best and most common way to secure batteries. I would also consider a tray of some sort that will keep them from shifting around.

Java 02-27-2017 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elwenil (Post 40008497)
Ratchet straps are just about one step above bungie cords. A typical set of J-bolts and a bracket across the top is the best and most common way to secure batteries. I would also consider a tray of some sort that will keep them from shifting around.

Ok, I was trying to stay away from a metal strap... I guess I might have to.

I was a planning to add a piece of angle iron at the back.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Java 02-27-2017 12:58 PM

Time lapse of the weekend.


fordnut 02-27-2017 01:07 PM

No matter how sealed the battery is every strap I've ever seen on a battery has been deteriorated from acid.

Java 02-27-2017 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordnut (Post 40009121)
No matter how sealed the battery is every strap I've ever seen on a battery has been deteriorated from acid.

Hmm didn't think about that.

GLTHFJ60 02-27-2017 02:25 PM

Keep it up man!!!

ben2go 02-27-2017 04:41 PM

If those batteries are flooded lead acid, you will want a tray under them in case the electrolyte solution boils out of the vents during charging. I also concur with the switch to steel straps and J bolts.

Java 02-27-2017 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 40011105)
If those batteries are flooded lead acid, you will want a tray under them in case the electrolyte solution boils out of the vents during charging. I also concur with the switch to steel straps and J bolts.

They are sealed agm's.

Damn all you guys. I like my straps! I thought it was a good idea....

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Elwenil 02-27-2017 04:53 PM

Unsecured batteries are never a good idea and storage batteries like those tend to be ignored for long periods of time so it's possible they could come loose and you may not even know there was a problem until something went very wrong. Honestly, if it were my rig, those would be stored outside the box, a firewall separating them from the living area, have a tray that held each battery securely without letting them touch or rub against each other and would be securely bolted down so they can't shift, move or come loose in an accident. They may be sealed now when they are new but there is no telling what may happen in the future and a busted could cause all sorts of problems and an accident may be bad but it could get much worse if a battery gets loose and starts a fire. Worst case scenario, but sometimes you have to take that into consideration when you are building something you are going to be away from home in and sleep inside. I'm sure Lance never thought their RV would burn to the ground from having R/C batteries rupture while charging but bad things do happen. Not saying your batteries are in any way similar to R/C batteries, just that things can get unpredictable in general. Just my .02

Java 02-27-2017 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elwenil (Post 40011209)
Unsecured batteries are never a good idea and storage batteries like those tend to be ignored for long periods of time so it's possible they could come loose and you may not even know there was a problem until something went very wrong. Honestly, if it were my rig, those would be stored outside the box, a firewall separating them from the living area, have a tray that held each battery securely without letting them touch or rub against each other and would be securely bolted down so they can't shift, move or come loose in an accident. They may be sealed now when they are new but there is no telling what may happen in the future and a busted could cause all sorts of problems and an accident may be bad but it could get much worse if a battery gets loose and starts a fire. Worst case scenario, but sometimes you have to take that into consideration when you are building something you are going to be away from home in and sleep inside. I'm sure Lance never thought their RV would burn to the ground from having R/C batteries rupture while charging but bad things do happen. Not saying your batteries are in any way similar to R/C batteries, just that things can get unpredictable in general. Just my .02

Totally agree on planning for worst case. I just didn't even see that as an issue. One of the reasons I post for ideas like this.

I'll look into adding metal straps as well.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

ben2go 02-27-2017 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40011121)
They are sealed agm's.

Damn all you guys. I like my straps! I thought it was a good idea....

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

I love AGM batteries. Good call.

mwilliamshs 02-27-2017 07:33 PM

They're GC-2, the OE golf cart hold downs are cheap and readily available. Let the Club Car engineers do the math.

Java 02-27-2017 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mwilliamshs (Post 40013001)
They're GC-2, the OE golf cart hold downs are cheap and readily available. Let the Club Car engineers do the math.

Thanks for that. I didn't even think of it, I'll see what I can find

Java 02-28-2017 08:23 AM

Got to let my inner OCD out last night

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/564/33...014b8d48_b.jpg

ennored 02-28-2017 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40017417)
Got to let my inner OCD out last night

It's not OCD, it's craftsmanship. It's what I come to Pirate and build threads like yours for.

Nice work!

Java 02-28-2017 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ennored (Post 40017857)
It's not OCD, it's craftsmanship. It's what I come to Pirate and build threads like yours for.

Nice work!

Thanks, glad your enjoying the thread.

I ordered a label maker, should be nice to label everything :D

michigander 02-28-2017 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40011313)

I'll look into adding metal straps as well.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

I've used all thread and pieces of wood as well. Even a section of a broken hockey stick for my RV conversion. No need to get fancy.

sweet build

Java 02-28-2017 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by michigander (Post 40019113)
I've used all thread and pieces of wood as well. Even a section of a broken hockey stick for my RV conversion. No need to get fancy.

sweet build

Yeah I was looking at it last night. I dont really want any metal bits in there, too many terminals and battery interconnect cables everywhere.

Elwenil 02-28-2017 11:54 AM

If the batteries are mounted securely, there is no need to worry about anything grounding out. If it bothers you that much, you could always dip or shrink wrap your metal bracket.

Java 02-28-2017 11:56 AM

Agreed, but if something does come loose, there is zero room for error. Hardwood or plastic i think is the answer. Looking at the golf cart ones they are all plastic.

Java 02-28-2017 12:02 PM

OK ill take opinions here too, heater intake (its a webasto/espar), currently it just sticks below the floor. Do I need to pipe it further down? I was thinking maybe adding a 90 to it aiming backwards so no road spray gets in, but its in a pretty protected spot.

87manche 02-28-2017 01:21 PM

what about just capping it with a louvered intake with the louvers facing rear?

https://ventmastersstore.com/product...9NBhoCvXDw_wcB

Java 02-28-2017 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87manche (Post 40020993)
what about just capping it with a louvered intake with the louvers facing rear?

https://ventmastersstore.com/product...9NBhoCvXDw_wcB

Too much restriction? I like that idea tho

87manche 02-28-2017 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40021033)
Too much restriction? I like that idea tho

there's a pretty big selection.
some that are just stainless mesh to keep the bugs and rodents out.

a 90 probably isn't a bad idea, but for sure it will need something over the end to keep out the critters.

Java 02-28-2017 01:42 PM

How about made from shit laying around the shop?!

Done.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3764/3...7de1433d_b.jpg

ben2go 02-28-2017 02:17 PM

I prefer stuff from shit laying around the shop. It's less I have to clean up or find a place to store it. :D

Java 02-28-2017 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 40021961)
I prefer stuff from shit laying around the shop. It's less I have to clean up or find a place to store it. :D

And already paid for!! :smokin:

ben2go 02-28-2017 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40021969)
And already paid for!! :smokin:

That too.

DE Jeeper 02-28-2017 03:09 PM

I just pointed the intake backward and the heater came with a screen for the pipe so i think your idea wil work fine

Java 02-28-2017 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DE Jeeper (Post 40022633)
I just pointed the intake backward and the heater came with a screen for the pipe so i think your idea wil work fine

Cool thanks, mine was used, so I didn't get any of the correct bits for it. I did get the exhaust pipe, and its installed and done.

Yarz 02-28-2017 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40017417)
Got to let my inner OCD out last night

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/564/33...014b8d48_b.jpg

You let your OCD out and couldn't even cut the zip ties?! :flipoff2:

Looks nice!

Java 02-28-2017 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yarz (Post 40023201)
You let your OCD out and couldn't even cut the zip ties?! :flipoff2:

Looks nice!

I couldn't find my flush cutters!!! :D Really I didnt want to use dykes

Java 03-01-2017 08:25 AM

Final wall panel went in. Was planning two pieces.... Did it in one instead so my hole was off a bit. Trim will cover it. Second dinette bench is in. I am thinking I may pull it back out and shrink it another 1/2"....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3714/3...322f103f_b.jpg


The UPS guy must love me.... And I have a very forgiving wife for letting me pile parts in the house. Thats the tank for the heater, 3 gallons, will be mounted outside.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/589/32...d5b8b370_b.jpg

Poop tank and parts are in.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3892/3...083b1949_b.jpg

Tried this floor, not doing it for me... It was the only "grey ish" one that was in stock at HD. Will see what else I can find.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3718/3...352b0f46_b.jpg

michigander 03-01-2017 09:33 AM

use plank vinyl on the floor or it will peal up from wet boots, etc. do you have a lumber liquidators near you?

Java 03-01-2017 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by michigander (Post 40032457)
use plank vinyl on the floor or it will peal up from wet boots, etc. do you have a lumber liquidators near you?

Yeah those are vinyl planks. I am looking for the stick together ones though, not the click.

And yes we are headed to lumber liquidators tonight.

Wife has informed me we will be taking the truck out camping this weekend. I got some work to do! :eek:

Java 03-02-2017 08:28 AM

Fuck am I getting tired!

Underlayment going down. Green and red is the same stuff, I just had a piece of the green left and it fit just right there.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2872/3...04b80a3e_b.jpg

Here is where I quit last night. Found some flooring we liked finally. Its a vinyl plank with a "foam" core. Claims to be water proof.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3843/3...f8eb984c_b.jpg

Java 03-02-2017 08:46 AM

Question on Inveter sizing.

My inverter is rated at 1250 watts, it says it can go 200% for short periods of time (but no real spec)

My coffee maker draws 1260 watts. (Im not sure if its 1260 all the time or not, need to plug it into the kill a watt to find out, im guessing not)

Think this will work or do I need to shop for a larger one???

mwilliamshs 03-02-2017 09:27 AM

They typically cycle on and off so that helps and if 1260 is the max for the coffee pot and it's a good inverter with an honest rating, should be no problem. Can always test the pot with the kill a watt and then test the inverter with that plus a 100w light bulb to determine overhead

Java 03-02-2017 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mwilliamshs (Post 40043697)
They typically cycle on and off so that helps and if 1260 is the max for the coffee pot and it's a good inverter with an honest rating, should be no problem. Can always test the pot with the kill a watt and then test the inverter with that plus a 100w light bulb to determine overhead

Yeah I have a kill a watt somewhere.... Ill have to find it and do some testing. The UL sticker on the pot says 1260 watts.

Its a Tripp Lite inverter charger, RV spec stuff so not the best out there. I am going to run 1/0 to it, so hopefully that helps.

87manche 03-02-2017 11:20 AM

tripplite inverters are actually pretty damned good.

it will protect itself, so try it and if it won't work it just won't work.

Java 03-02-2017 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87manche (Post 40045009)
tripplite inverters are actually pretty damned good.

it will protect itself, so try it and if it won't work it just won't work.

Good to know, I was under the impression they were just run of the mill.

I don't really want to wire the damn thing if it wont work. I'll see what the kill a watt says. If its just surge of 1260 it should be just fine.

Java 03-03-2017 08:35 AM

Late night last night... Didn't take many pics.

Finished up the floor
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3805/3...0db460c5_b.jpg

Kitchen cabinet in (well mostly in...)
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2875/3...94ac0a56_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2817/3...766e6274_b.jpg

About 30 hours till departure....ouy

CDA 455 03-03-2017 12:10 PM

Just found this this.


Awesome work you're doing, dude :smokin: :beer: .

Java 03-03-2017 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CDA 455 (Post 40058033)
Just found this this.


Awesome work you're doing, dude :smokin: [emoji481] .

Thanks dude!

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

MT4Runner 03-03-2017 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40055409)
Late night last night... Didn't take many pics.

Finished up the floor
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3805/3...0db460c5_b.jpg

Kitchen cabinet in (well mostly in...)
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2875/3...94ac0a56_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2817/3...766e6274_b.jpg

About 30 hours till departure....ouy

All that blonde maple wood is really, really sexy.

I wish your ceiling were the same material. :flipoff2:

Java 03-03-2017 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 40059697)
All that blonde maple wood is really, really sexy.

I wish your ceiling were the same material. :flipoff2:

Ha gotta break it up somewhere! But yeah I'm digging it too.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Java 03-04-2017 08:47 AM

Got home before dark. outside shot! Will need some air in the bags...

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2920/3...d0a81ede_b.jpg

Switches actually running the lights! 12v meter and two usb ports there as well
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2827/3...b8551eea_b.jpg

rats nest.....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3875/3...16fabf74_b.jpg

Pooper placement confirmed
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3691/3...9eb35028_b.jpg

Black walnut scraps for sink infill cutting board
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3824/3...547b10dc_b.jpg

Java 03-04-2017 11:45 AM

Boat tank doesn't play nice with the webasto.... Arrg. Something about the pickup.... I don't have time for this! Supposed to leave in 3 hours.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

mwilliamshs 03-04-2017 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40066585)
Boat tank doesn't play nice with the webasto.... Arrg. Something about the pickup.... I don't have time for this! Supposed to leave in 3 hours.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Portable boat tanks use a siphon bulb and most have vented caps. Make sure the vent is open (sometimes a threaded knob within the lid) and make sure the bulb is pumped up while the Webasto pump is running, OR use your own pickup that doesn't use the valve built-in to the tank.

I know from experience that you can just use the portable boat tank pickup tp run a small engine (Briggs 18hp, even had its own pump) without either installing a separate pickup or priming the bulb and opening the vent.

Java 03-04-2017 12:35 PM

Cap was off completely, I think it may be the internal diameter of the pickup that's the issue. The webasto is just a pulse pump. No bulb, just connected straight to the tank

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

tab2 03-05-2017 06:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mwilliamshs (Post 40066873)
Portable boat tanks use a siphon bulb and most have vented caps. Make sure the vent is open (sometimes a threaded knob within the lid) and make sure the bulb is pumped up while the Webasto pump is running, OR use your own pickup that doesn't use the valve built-in to the tank.

I know from experience that you can just use the portable boat tank pickup tp run a small engine (Briggs 18hp, even had its own pump) without either installing a separate pickup or priming the bulb and opening the vent.

EPA doesn't allow vented caps anymore. They want your tank to swell up like a balloon when it sits in the sun and then right under your nuts when you get in. Apparently the vapors are bad for the environment, but if a tank seam lets go and spills its no big deal.

I've never had luck using boat tanks for our generator. Ended up with a tank that gravity fed into a T right after the generator's tank.

johny5.0 03-05-2017 07:32 AM

Im using a small gallon gas can that has a mount up under my van . I heated up a pin and poked it into the gas can for a vent. If my van was diesel I would pull it from the tank

Java 03-05-2017 08:42 AM

Fawk yeah!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4af683fb73.jpg

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

CDA 455 03-05-2017 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40072025)
Fawk yeah!

Awesome pic is awesome :smokin: .

Java 03-05-2017 06:45 PM

update sine I was in a giant rush yesterday.

pooper in

https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3721/3...480c4239_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3837/3...fdefc782_b.jpg

Prototype ski storage
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/724/33...7f708bbc_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/669/32...12b66be6_b.jpg

Temp counter in
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/675/33...355ee7e6_b.jpg

Bed done, after the first night, im really happy with the Amazon memory foam mattress. so cushy
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3870/3...a37c3b3f_b.jpg

Temp cooking
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2925/3...cdd8e689_b.jpg

Stairs work well
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3797/3...ba1e7904_b.jpg

What its all about!!!https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2905/3...c635fa15_b.jpg

CDA 455 03-05-2017 06:56 PM

So you built in 'shitting with a view' :grinpimp: :laughing: ?!!

https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3837/3...fdefc782_b.jpg

Java 03-05-2017 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CDA 455 (Post 40076793)
So you built in 'shitting with a view' :grinpimp: :laughing: ?!!

https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3837/3...fdefc782_b.jpg

Fawk yes! Haha got a wall to install still....

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

GLTHFJ60 03-06-2017 09:31 AM

Awesome work man!!!

Java 03-06-2017 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLTHFJ60 (Post 40081137)
Awesome work man!!!

Thanks! Sure felt good to sleep in there after all the work!

MT4Runner 03-06-2017 09:41 AM

Did you sleep in the truck in your driveway..or are you now skiing?

Java 03-06-2017 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 40081233)
Did you sleep in the truck in your driveway..or are you now skiing?

Took it out skiing Saturday night. I wish I had that much snow in my driveway!

Java 03-06-2017 11:16 AM

Rear shock suggestions? Look like the OE's on there still. Its at 106k, they are bouncy..... I had 45 psi ion the bags too.

Front felt ok, just the ass end bouncing a bit.

aczlan 03-06-2017 12:03 PM

A friend with back problems and a dually F350 (they tow a big 5th wheel RV) swears by Bilsteins and said to avoid "Gabriel, Monroe or Rancho kidney crunchers"

Aaron Z

Java 03-06-2017 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aczlan (Post 40082801)
A friend with back problems and a dually F350 (they tow a big 5th wheel RV) swears by Bilsteins and said to avoid "Gabriel, Monroe or Rancho kidney crunchers"

Aaron Z

Cool thanks, I had Bilsteins on my old truck too

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

mwilliamshs 03-06-2017 03:20 PM

KYBs on 2 F350s now and E150. No complaints and they're all overloaded LOL

Seriously put about 40k on KYBs on the 1st F350 and thought it deserved a tune up before a long, loaded trip so I was gonna replace the shocks. Took one rear off and it was just as stiff in both directions as new so I put it back on and cancelled ordering the replacements. This truck never gets used at all unless it's hauling the slide-in camper or towing a GN. Love these shocks.

Java 03-06-2017 09:21 PM

OK am i reading this right? Shunt should be between battery negative and loads correct? So i connect all loads (fuse block and inverter) to the system side of the shunt, and the other side goes to battery negative.

Charger negative should also go to system (load) side of shunt??
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3810/3...d476936e_b.jpg

MT4Runner 03-07-2017 07:51 AM

Yeah, that works. Remember that it will be reading only the amperage (charge or discharge) of the main battery. The ammeter sees the minute voltage drop across the shunt to read the amperage. The only way to read amperage is in series, so you obviously don't want 50A going through a tiny ammeter. The shunt is the safe way to do it.

Since it's an open conductor, it's also safer to install the shunt in the negative leg instead of the positive leg.

Java 03-07-2017 08:04 AM

Ok cool, that was my understanding.

Now it will read a whole battery bank correct as long as it's in the main negative lead.

I have 4 6v batteries, two pairs in series, and tied together in parallel. As long as the shunt is in my negative lead to the parallel pairs it should read the whole bank correct?

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Java 03-07-2017 08:38 AM

A little more progress last night. Gas strut installed on the bed. Only ended up needing one. Seems to work just fine.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/618/32...24aedfe4_b.jpg

Pretty decent storage access. I may put a divider in to keep things from migrating towards the back...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3951/3...ab35c16c_b.jpg

Poop tank valve going on. What a huge PITA. When the company wants to sell you a bag of abs shavings just buy it.... I spent a long time with a piece of pipe and a paddle bit making shavings. I didnt realize how much it would take....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2808/3...4bbceb1c_b.jpg


mmmm goobery
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/632/32...46fec02f_b.jpg

MT4Runner 03-07-2017 08:48 AM

Yes, the shunt would read the entire bank if it's in the main negative lead.

I have read up on ABS tank mods, but haven't yet tried it myself. Didn't realize that the ABS shavings in MEK was actually the standard. I need to put flush/spray heads in my tank, and plan to pipe them either with 1/2" irrigation line or PEX so I can connect the flush water connection right next to the drain/dump connection while I'm at the RV dump. dragging a hose in through the window sucks.

Java 03-07-2017 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 40091593)
Yes, the shunt would read the entire bank if it's in the main negative lead.

I have read up on ABS tank mods, but haven't yet tried it myself. Didn't realize that the ABS shavings in MEK was actually the standard. I need to put flush/spray heads in my tank, and plan to pipe them either with 1/2" irrigation line or PEX so I can connect the flush water connection right next to the drain/dump connection while I'm at the RV dump. dragging a hose in through the window sucks.

Yeah the tank mfg said acetone and shavings. MEK will eat the tank itself if your not careful. I think mek acetone mix would work well, not quite as hot as pure mek. I just used ABS glue to get the fitting in place so I can fill around it from the inside.

Do you not have a roof vent? They are made to pop off most of the time, you just stuff the hose down there. All the dump places around me have the flush water up one a spring pole so its close to the roof.

Like this, one screw and the whole top pops loose. I just left the screw most of the way out on mine and you could pop it loose and rotate it out of the way.

http://www.doityourselfrv.com/wp-con...vent-cap-5.jpg

Thats how I always did it on my old rig.

amgraham 03-07-2017 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40082121)
Rear shock suggestions? Look like the OE's on there still. Its at 106k, they are bouncy..... I had 45 psi ion the bags too.

Front felt ok, just the ass end bouncing a bit.

I replaced the stockers on my 11 F-350 a few months back a few months back with Bilstein 5100s and it was a night and day difference as far as ride goes, loaded or empty. They were like $350 for the set of 4 on Amazon or ebay. For that stuff I just find the part numbers and search around till I find the lowest price.

Java 03-07-2017 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amgraham (Post 40095441)
I replaced the stockers on my 11 F-350 a few months back a few months back with Bilstein 5100s and it was a night and day difference as far as ride goes, loaded or empty. They were like $350 for the set of 4 on Amazon or ebay. For that stuff I just find the part numbers and search around till I find the lowest price.

Cool, I got a few votes for 5100's

I think its these, thats the number for the f350 anyway, 50's seem to not get their own part number much....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BYNJ7OW...I21ZS70Q10IEBO

MT4Runner 03-07-2017 02:40 PM

You might still want to install the 2nd gas strut. It should make the first last longer...and keep from putting an eccentric load on the hinges so things stay tight longer. I've also noticed that when I have extra bedding...sleeping bag...or a bag of clothes on my bed that it's all two struts can do to keep it up. When it was just the mattress, a single strut held it easily.

Out of curiousity, what weight struts did you use?


Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40091641)
Do you not have a roof vent? They are made to pop off most of the time, you just stuff the hose down there. All the dump places around me have the flush water up one a spring pole so its close to the roof.

Holy shit, how did I not know this?!? :laughing:

I do have a roof vent.

..but I'd still rather connect a hose right next to the dump cap instead of climbing the ladder.

Java 03-07-2017 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 40095569)
You might still want to install the 2nd gas strut. It should make the first last longer...and keep from putting an eccentric load on the hinges so things stay tight longer. I've also noticed that when I have extra bedding...sleeping bag...or a bag of clothes on my bed that it's all two struts can do to keep it up. When it was just the mattress, a single strut held it easily.

Out of curiousity, what weight struts did you use?




Holy shit, how did I not know this?!? :laughing:

I do have a roof vent.

..but I'd still rather connect a hose right next to the dump cap instead of climbing the ladder.

Yeah I may add the second one, its just in the damn way of the opening. I need the pushing towards the back of the truck, otherwise its too tight on the cabinet at the end of the bed. Im not worried about the hinges, they are pieces of webbing :laughing: I needed to have a little movement in them as the mattress is pretty tight to the back wall and i didn't feel like trying to build an offset hinge.

They are 120# force struts

Well now you know about the cap! :flipoff2: the places I dump generally dont have a hose fitting on the end of the hose.

Java 03-08-2017 08:16 AM

Fridge is in! And its pretty :D
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/670/33...3063d574_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3710/3...da270622_b.jpg

Black tank fittings are the biggest pain in the ass you can imagine.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2931/3...fc1c516d_b.jpg

That was it for last night.

CDA 455 03-08-2017 11:09 AM

Dude; you're killing me with your awesome build :mad3: .





Rock awn :grinpimp: .

Java 03-08-2017 11:42 AM

Thanks dude! Im stoked too. Lots to do still...

Buckin69bronco2.0 03-08-2017 12:42 PM

Nice build, looks to be coming along really well

Java 03-09-2017 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buckin69bronco2.0 (Post 40105033)
Nice build, looks to be coming along really well

Thanks man!

No real visible progress last night. Put a coat of finish on all the raw ply edges.

Also picked up the counter top material
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3807/3...c206547c_b.jpg

Java 03-10-2017 08:25 AM

Child safety device in place.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/579/32...2a3b5a88_b.jpg

Now back to the heater. I couldn't get it to pull gas from the boat tank. After pulling the tank apart I think the pickup tube was just too big for the little pulse pump. It was 3/8" ish tube. So heat gun and a piece of 3/16 and wa la, new in tank pickup.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3780/3...7bf6fccc_b.jpg

Since I haven't gotten a chance to install the tank yet.... ghetto rigging ensures. Luckily this is all very low pressure.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/745/32...c93d4dc3_b.jpg

It works!! Box got to 70 in a couple minutes.... Too hot.

Exhaust location since I dont think I ever posted this. No smoke or smell on kerosene.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/664/32...b884a31a_b.jpg

Not about that ticking fuel pump. Its loud (mounted to the wood spacer above the frame rail in a rubber P clamp). This will need some googling.

CDA 455 03-10-2017 10:02 AM

Quote:

My inebriated safety device in place.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/579/32...2a3b5a88_b.jpg

There; FIFY :grinpimp: :flipoff2: .

Java 03-10-2017 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CDA 455 (Post 40124921)
There; FIFY :grinpimp: :flipoff2: .

HAHA Thats the kids bed...

But this fawker showed up yesterday for the entry stairs :laughing:

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1IzOsseQ3L.jpg

Uhhh yeah helpful after beer consumption

Java 03-12-2017 09:38 PM

You simply cannot loose it in a parking lot....

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/707/33...f02ed2ac_b.jpg

But hitting the store means we are going out of town!

Munchkin seat, installed.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2924/3...656b9976_b.jpg

Got an idea to quiet down the fuel pump, quick fist to the rescue. Definitely helped.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/680/33...2a343219_b.jpg

Headed out for the night
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3857/3...70447133_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2922/3...f54cee36_b.jpg

Parking for the night
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/697/32...051b3f6d_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3938/3...cca94c6b_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/736/33...e9ed36e3_b.jpghttps://c1.staticflickr.com/1/629/33...46cd9702_b.jpg

Java 03-12-2017 09:38 PM

Even got some work done while we were gone, added a hand rail
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3898/3...83c40d2c_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2826/3...ba175e8e_b.jpg

Ugh too much rain!!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/734/32...8a1c5e67_b.jpg

TireFryerSS 03-13-2017 02:13 PM

Need better tires. A set of 265/70's in a drive tire pattern should help alot.





P. S. Get that thing deleted :D

Java 03-13-2017 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TireFryerSS (Post 40153129)
Need better tires. A set of 265/70's in a drive tire pattern should help alot.





P. S. Get that thing deleted :D

It didnt have any issues digging its way out, it just sinks....

Im looking at tires.... These are just brand fucking new, and I only have 6" wide rims at the moment.....

I would love to get deleted, its a boost monster as it is. :D I need to do the flex pipes.... When its hot it stinks the cab up good at slow speeds.... Its fine on the freeway. Tuner is just fucking stupid expensive.

I guess anyone have tuner recommendations? Seems like the black maxx gets very good reviews. But its $$$$ I dont need more power, stock is fine just getting rid of the emissions shit.

Current thinking is block off plates for the EGR coolers, leaving them in place. (is leaving the EGR valve in place a bad idea? I dont want to deal with having to try to pull a sticky valve out and breaking it off in the process.)

Flex pipes, new two piece downpipe (suggestions? any flex pipes any better)

DPF and cat delete pipes.


Oh I need the truck usable.... Looks like we will be using it just about every weekend now.... And this will be my first go at a modern diesel motor....

MT4Runner 03-14-2017 08:27 AM

Awesome!

(except the getting-stuck part!)

Java 03-14-2017 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 40160505)
Awesome!

(except the getting-stuck part!)

It wasn't stuck, just made a mess of my front yard :D Going to be hard to get the little summer car across that hole...

CDA 455 03-14-2017 09:33 AM

Great update pics!


How slick was the ice at that campground?

I carry micro spikes (for my boots/shoes) in my Bronco during the Winter months.

CDA 455 03-14-2017 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40160617)
It wasn't stuck, just made a mess of my front yard :D Going to be hard to get the little summer car across that hole...

Yeah; front yard crawling at it's best :flipoff2: !

Java 03-14-2017 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CDA 455 (Post 40161169)
Great update pics!


How slick was the ice at that campground?

I carry micro spikes (for my boots/shoes) in my Bronco during the Winter months.

It was bad, you couldn't walk on it. Period. It was a layer of ice/packed snow that had melted, so ice with water running over the top of it.... We shoveled snow on top of it all around the truck so we could walk!

It was kinda fun to hit boost leaving though :flipoff2:

FC4X4 03-16-2017 07:03 AM

Love the thread. Will you ditch the duels when you get new tires & wheels? What size are you thinking of going up to?

Java 03-16-2017 07:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC4X4 (Post 40181049)
Love the thread. Will you ditch the duels when you get new tires & wheels? What size are you thinking of going up to?

Thanks, glad your enjoying it!

I'm torn on the wheels and tires. The tires are literally brand new. Just put on before I bought the truck. They drive very nice other than turning lots of rpms.

I've been looking at the 335/80/20 msa275 million take offs, but they are huge, stepping up to a 42 will take a fair bit of lift, which I really don't want.

The other option is just going 265 or 285 on the duals. I had duals on the old truck and they never really caused me any issues. It will see forest service roads and whatnot.

Or go to a custom 20" wheel, looking at first attack, and a high load rated LT tire. Nitro makes one I'm not remembering and the MTR have pretty high load ratings on their E tire I need to get weighed to see if that's even do able.

Ideally I'd fit whatever I can get on with a 2" front and a 1-1.5" block in the back.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Java 03-20-2017 10:06 AM

It was a little wet Saturday.... Makes working on the truck miserable. I strung a tarp up between the garage and truck, that helped a little....

Thats a gravel driveway under there....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2806/3...99d7261f_b.jpg

And a half block from my house.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2886/3...d5682513_b.jpg

Didn't get much done. Started layout for the counter top. A lot of weird ass radiused angles on the stove... 1 3/16" radius corners?! Really?
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2807/3...7087389f_b.jpg

Holes cut and nailed in place.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3804/3...7cfdb304_b.jpg

Weather cleared up for Sunday, good. Tile time.

That was a pain in the ass...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2831/3...cd39119b_b.jpg

But my lovely wife polished all the edges of the tiles for me!

First row in. Glued down with polyurethane adhesive caulk. That was interesting to trowel.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3673/3...70fa3183_b.jpg

Done! Well need to grout still....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3792/3...ec3ca055_b.jpg

Anyone recognize this extrusion? I'm guessing its not proprietary to TriVan. I need a couple pieces. You can see my dirt finger line plan :sombrero: Bob the rear end a bit. Should really help with the departure angle. I will have to re-do the hitch, but this thing is built like a bomb shelter. I don't plan to tow much more than my little aluminum boat.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3741/3...a7e8bcdb_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3938/3...cc152cfe_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3850/3...952d36fb_b.jpg

Java 03-22-2017 08:23 AM

Thoughts on tire clearance?

Top of the tape is a 37", should fit ok, but cuts down on clearance.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8f2ee38841.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4bfce3f89d.jpg

Not sure how much the rear end really moves on these things.

Still listening for options on these two

I guess anyone have tuner recommendations? Seems like the black maxx gets very good reviews. But its $$$$ I dont need more power, stock is fine just getting rid of the emissions shit.

Current thinking is block off plates for the EGR coolers, leaving them in place. (is leaving the EGR valve in place a bad idea? I dont want to deal with having to try to pull a sticky valve out and breaking it off in the process.)


WrenchMonkey 03-22-2017 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40237881)
Thoughts on tire clearance?

Top of the tape is a 37", should fit ok, but cuts down on clearance.

Remember that if you're going from a 34 to a 37, half that increase will be on the bottom of the tire. You'll only eat 1.5" into the fenderwell clearance.

But I'm sure it's the fronts that you'll need to worry about anyway.

Java 03-22-2017 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WrenchMonkey (Post 40242961)
Remember that if you're going from a 34 to a 37, half that increase will be on the bottom of the tire. You'll only eat 1.5" into the fenderwell clearance.

But I'm sure it's the fronts that you'll need to worry about anyway.

Yes, but I measured from axle Center not ground. Fronts will get cutaway flares and a spacer if needed

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

WrenchMonkey 03-22-2017 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40243001)
Yes, but I measured from axle Center not ground.

Sorry, too much internet has me assuming the worst about my fellow man...

I'll crawl back under my rock and admire your work from there, carry on!

Java 03-22-2017 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WrenchMonkey (Post 40243145)
Sorry, too much internet has me assuming the worst about my fellow man...

I'll crawl back under my rock and admire your work from there, carry on!

No worries! Feel free to add any comments, that's why I have this thread. I'm just making things up as I go....

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Java 03-22-2017 06:34 PM

"Grouted" the counter last night. Used black RTV silicone so it have a bit of movement.

Tape off all the edges.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2912/3...3d512b94_b.jpg

Work it into the crack, then wipe as clean as possible down the tape line. Carefully pull the tape.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3857/3...705ae4aa_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3846/3...f5b7f16c_b.jpg

Then I crawled under to finish mounting the poop tank. Added large fender washer to the screws.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2864/3...4b29e0c1_b.jpg

Now a question. This section of the tank is not supported. I hung off the back corner and it didnt really seem to flex much at all. Is it worth making a bracket to hold that back corner? Its 1/4" abs on that top flange.

http://i.imgur.com/b4ATTys.jpg?1

parkers30 03-22-2017 08:42 PM

I think I'd want to support that corner.

Do you have instructions for your tank or could find them online? I have Ameri-Kart tanks and they have installation instructions which require more support than I'd have guessed.

Java 03-22-2017 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by parkers30 (Post 40245617)
I think I'd want to support that corner.

Do you have instructions for your tank or could find them online? I have Ameri-Kart tanks and they have installation instructions which require more support than I'd have guessed.

I couldn't find any instructions directly for this tank. They say that it has a "mounting flange" though. I think it's worth doing, I'd hate to have it fall off somewhere, it's right above the exhaust.... That would smell nice im sure.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

CDA 455 03-22-2017 08:52 PM

Grout looks awesome!

Java 03-23-2017 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CDA 455 (Post 40245753)
Grout looks awesome!

Thanks! It did turn out pretty good. A little deeper than I was hoping for but it came out clean.


Not much time yesterday, but hit the stove hole with a grinder to get it to slip in. Ebay damaged sink, of course its the front corner, oh well, it was cheap.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2849/3...3b92c1ca_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3848/3...fcbfed3b_b.jpg

Dropped the water tank in, perfect fit (after removing my seat top ledgers :D )! Need to get some 1.5" insulation for it to sit on, then it will get permanently installed.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3850/3...c7c8a155_b.jpg

Connections are still going to be tight.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2880/3...35bef9b8_b.jpg

My solution for quick release tail light panels came too, needed to be able to drop them to get to the poop tank dump and the heater fuel tank. Should work ok, hinges were not working.... These will be a bit slower.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2852/3...6bcc02df_b.jpg[/url]

87manche 03-23-2017 10:35 AM

for the tank, why not just some c channel attached to your current mounting point that reaches out to the corner?
just clamp the flange under it.

Java 03-23-2017 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87manche (Post 40250105)
for the tank, why not just some c channel attached to your current mounting point that reaches out to the corner?
just clamp the flange under it.

Thats a thought, I dont think I can fit a full length one in there. Spring hanger is kinda tight.

My thinking was just a piece of angle or flat stock between that last cross member and the tank with a couple 1/4-20's in the tank flange.

Java 03-24-2017 08:24 AM

Cut more holes in it. Poop stink evacuator hole.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d47ff3f0b9.jpg

Insulated the back bath wall. Really only because I needed the scrap!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3838/3...57130c68_b.jpg

So I could insulate under the water tank!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2848/3...f054b7c4_b.jpg

Tapped the holes for the tail light panel and used my nifty new wing bolts.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3853/3...b3489df9_b.jpg

Drops off for easy dumping!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3940/3...738fdcf3_b.jpg

Java 03-24-2017 08:40 AM

Its amazing how much time all the little stuff takes now...

Opionion Time!

Thoughts on propane tank right in front of the drive wheels? I found a ASME (permanent mount, DOT approved) tank, Its just slightly longer than I wanted.

It almost fits just right, right here:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2844/3...667d42ba_b.jpg

A couple options, say fawk it and it sticks into the wheel well a couple inches. Not ideal, especially is bigger tires are involved in the future. And it will get constantly pelted.

Option 2: Hack the box in front of it up. I could cut enough of it out so the tank would tuck forward, so the back is just flush with the wheel opening.
This kills my dry storage though... I could put a divider back in, but it would never seal that well. Plus I cant weld aluminum. The up side is the stairs eat most of that box anyway, and they are often wet/snowy/messy anyway.

Option 3: BBQ style tank, originally I planned to mount it on the rear door, but it would fit in the space as well if I could find a nice way to mount it...
Tank in question.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2939/3...00f3db49_b.jpg

amgraham 03-24-2017 08:49 AM

I would worry more about the safety aspect if you blow a tire being that close.

Java 03-24-2017 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amgraham (Post 40258953)
I would worry more about the safety aspect if you blow a tire being that close.

Yeah thats a concern. The tank is beefy, and Ideally I would put a plate between it and the tires.

GLTHFJ60 03-24-2017 09:22 AM

If the stairs are the only thing that box is used for then I'd say reduce the size of the box. Since you can't weld aluminum, spend some time to fit up the pieces and take it to a welder. They would be able to put the welds down quick and pretty cheap if all of the fit-up work is done.

Java 03-24-2017 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLTHFJ60 (Post 40259353)
If the stairs are the only thing that box is used for then I'd say reduce the size of the box. Since you can't weld aluminum, spend some time to fit up the pieces and take it to a welder. They would be able to put the welds down quick and pretty cheap if all of the fit-up work is done.

Well I have planned for some other stuff in there too, but it's an option to hack it. I'm tempted to buy a spool gun...

Anyone have any slick bbq tank ideas?

GLTHFJ60 03-24-2017 09:45 AM

I'd hang the BBQ tank on the rear doors high enough that it's not affected by a collision, but not so high that you can't reach it to replace.

Java 03-24-2017 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLTHFJ60 (Post 40259657)
I'd hang the BBQ tank on the rear doors high enough that it's not affected by a collision, but not so high that you can't reach it to replace.

That was my original plan. It's just a long ass run of pipe to get up front. I was thinking of trying to find a way to hang / drop it into that space in front of the tire

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

CDA 455 03-24-2017 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40258849)
Its amazing how much time all the little stuff takes now...

Opionion Time!

Thoughts on propane tank right in front of the drive wheels? I found a ASME (permanent mount, DOT approved) tank, Its just slightly longer than I wanted.

It almost fits just right, right here:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2844/3...667d42ba_b.jpg

A couple options, say fawk it and it sticks into the wheel well a couple inches. Not ideal, especially is bigger tires are involved in the future. And it will get constantly pelted.

Option 2: Hack the box in front of it up. I could cut enough of it out so the tank would tuck forward, so the back is just flush with the wheel opening.
This kills my dry storage though... I could put a divider back in, but it would never seal that well. Plus I cant weld aluminum. The up side is the stairs eat most of that box anyway, and they are often wet/snowy/messy anyway.

Option 3: BBQ style tank, originally I planned to mount it on the rear door, but it would fit in the space as well if I could find a nice way to mount it...
Tank in question.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2939/3...00f3db49_b.jpg

I like easy access.

But I also like storage space too.


If it hasn't been brought up yet: What's planned for the area behind the tire/wheel and above the exhaust tip?

Java 03-24-2017 10:00 AM

The poop tank is above the exhaust there. I had planned to put the fuel tank for the heater on the drivers side in the same place, but its not there yet... That is an option, but again I like the idea of short propane runs....

A tip out bin there would be sweet for a BBQ tank, but its just so tight space wise (vertically on the BBQ tanks)

Java 03-24-2017 10:42 AM

Fucking $$$ But lookie what I found!

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1vP6zaifOL.jpg

Remote fill kit!!! Think fill places would give me grief for this?

87manche 03-24-2017 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40260257)
Fucking $$$ But lookie what I found!

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1vP6zaifOL.jpg

Remote fill kit!!! Think fill places would give me grief for this?

nope.
that's some big class A RV shit. pretty sure my brothers Winnie is remote fill.

https://winnebagoind.com/products/cl...rior/features/

remote fill is standard equipment on that. So I don't think anyone filling RV tanks is gonna give you shit.
Quote:

Permanent-mount LP Tank w/remote fill w/power switches

CDA 455 03-24-2017 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40259785)
The poop tank is above the exhaust there. I had planned to put the fuel tank for the heater on the drivers side in the same place, but its not there yet... That is an option, but again I like the idea of short propane runs....

A tip out bin there would be sweet for a BBQ tank, but its just so tight space wise (vertically on the BBQ tanks)

Meh; poop tanks are over-rated :flipoff2: :laughing: !

Java 03-24-2017 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CDA 455 (Post 40261601)
Meh; poop tanks are over-rated :flipoff2: :laughing: !

Ha I did like the dump straight on the ground feature we had going. But it doesnt work so well when turds hit the exhaust. :flipoff2:

CDA 455 03-24-2017 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40262481)
Ha I did like the dump straight on the ground feature we had going. But it doesnt work so well when turds hit the exhaust. :flipoff2:

Imagine that; exhaust-fried turds :laughing: .



STEP RIGHT UP! Get yer exhausted-fried turds here :grinpimp: !!1!

bdkw1 03-24-2017 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40262481)
Ha I did like the dump straight on the ground feature we had going. But it doesnt work so well when turds hit the exhaust. :flipoff2:

There used to be a macerator system that would slowly pump your ground up black water into the exhaust to get burnt off.........

Found it..... The Thermasan System :smokin:

Java 03-24-2017 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdkw1 (Post 40263153)
There used to be a macerator system that would slowly pump your ground up black water into the exhaust to get burnt off.........

Found it..... The Thermasan System :smokin:

Oh thats lovely... I bet it smelled amazing behind those..... :barf:

ben2go 03-24-2017 09:19 PM

:shaking:

ennored 03-25-2017 07:12 AM

The propane tank on my motorhome is right behind the wheels. Blown tire didn't damage the tank, but it did bend the metal under the valves, and tear the rubber hose between the tank and the motorhome. Yes, it was leaking propane while sparks were undoubtedly flying form the steel belts, luckily no ignition. Heard the hissing and closed the outlet valve on the tank.

So it is done, and the tank withstood a blowout.

ben2go 03-25-2017 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ennored (Post 40268481)
The propane tank on my motorhome is right behind the wheels. Blown tire didn't damage the tank, but it did bend the metal under the valves, and tear the rubber hose between the tank and the motorhome. Yes, it was leaking propane while sparks were undoubtedly flying form the steel belts, luckily no ignition. Heard the hissing and closed the outlet valve on the tank.

So it is done, and the tank withstood a blowout.

Shouldn't the valve be closed during travel? I know I always close mine,but they're easy to get to.

Java 03-25-2017 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ennored (Post 40268481)
The propane tank on my motorhome is right behind the wheels. Blown tire didn't damage the tank, but it did bend the metal under the valves, and tear the rubber hose between the tank and the motorhome. Yes, it was leaking propane while sparks were undoubtedly flying form the steel belts, luckily no ignition. Heard the hissing and closed the outlet valve on the tank.

So it is done, and the tank withstood a blowout.

Good to know! The tanks, especially the asme ones, are pretty damn beefy

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

MT4Runner 03-25-2017 01:58 PM

Go for the ASME tank: they don't require recertification and take up less vertical space.

Make the hose long enough that you can connect a BBQ tank sitting on the ground should you ever run the ASME tank empty and need to run the small tank as a spare.

Too bad you don't live closer, I have a bigger tank to put in my mh and would have a 30gal tank you could use

Lake_v2 03-26-2017 04:46 PM

Looks good in person just saw you waiting for the ferry off whidbey.

CDA 455 03-26-2017 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40263217)
Oh thats lovely... I bet it smelled amazing behind those..... :barf:

:shaking: :laughing:

Java 03-26-2017 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lake_v2 (Post 40278593)
Looks good in person just saw you waiting for the ferry off whidbey.

Did you have a uhaul trailer and wave?

Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Lake_v2 03-26-2017 08:02 PM

Sure did, on ferry again now, clearing out aunts vacation condo.

Java 03-26-2017 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lake_v2 (Post 40280177)
Sure did, on ferry again now, clearing out aunts vacation condo.

Sweet! I figured it might have been you. Ferry fees with a trailer (or big ass truck) suck!

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Lake_v2 03-26-2017 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40280201)
Sweet! I figured it might have been you. Ferry fees with a trailer (or big ass truck) suck!

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

They sure do was 40ish each way on feery, but considering she is permanently moving to florida we came out ok with a living room set, a bedroom set and two kayaks only used for a few weeks each summer.

She was going to donate everything to goodwill unless family could make use of ot.

Java 03-26-2017 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lake_v2 (Post 40281073)
They sure do was 40ish each way on feery, but considering she is permanently moving to florida we came out ok with a living room set, a bedroom set and two kayaks only used for a few weeks each summer.

She was going to donate everything to goodwill unless family could make use of ot.

Sounds like a good score, I'm under 30' so it was 25 ish

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Java 03-27-2017 09:25 AM

Another weekend in the books. Just a campground this weekend.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2934/3...6d685dd1_b.jpg

Spent some time on Sat getting the poop tank done. Made a custom "long elbow" for the vent.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2889/3...723f5126_b.jpg

Runs up the back corner and out the wall.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3666/3...b9a7ec23_b.jpg

Added a cleanout for easy tank rinsing.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3944/3...82638e81_b.jpg

And the clamshell vent over the outlet.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2835/3...b5e61641_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2846/3...0e9e57fc_b.jpg

Getting out of the driveway was interesting. Ugh. I need some gravel.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3727/3...7fa8f6be_b.jpg

Java 03-29-2017 09:32 AM

Pickup up the propane tank. Its big. Bigger than I planned. Its 11.9 gallons or 50lbs, and its half full and really heavy to wrestle under the truck, then to to bench press onto the jack...

But it fits, sideways, barely.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2889/3...a4e9374e_b.jpg

Tight on the spring hanger. A little trimming of the gaurd thing and it will slip up a little higher, should have ~1/2" clearance min.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3929/3...9a3c3407_b.jpg

Took some pics of the frame extension while I was down there. Its welded in, then a doubler is bolted across it.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3842/3...a66d978f_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2945/3...a5e11be2_b.jpg

My lighting showed up, they don't match... oh well. Mount is taller, covers are different, colors don't match.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3843/3...5505e0e3_b.jpg

So I started on a light bar. Bend attempt #1, fail.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3670/3...7175aa87_b.jpg

Attempt #2, works. Floor jack, two pieces of 2x material, one big ass trailer hitch. Kinked the tube a little but it worked and its a light bar, who cares.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2885/3...24587258_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2907/3...ec4eeb42_b.jpg

Java 03-30-2017 09:14 AM

Welding day yesterday. Made brackets to hold the kerosene tank for the heater. Blue was the first can on the spray paint shelf.... You wont see it.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3764/3...9f336bb4_b.jpg

Then started on the light bar.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2910/3...952dca9b_b.jpg

Then got distracted for a couple hours.... It got dark. Turns out you can fit a headlamp over a welding hood :D
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2902/3...382ec16b_b.jpg

Tacked up in the driveway.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3670/3...f9b70444_b.jpg

Welded up. Im going to have a long date with the grinder. I left the mounting tabs a little big as the bar was kinda sloppy in my 'jig'
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2924/3...0c156fb4_b.jpg

Java 04-03-2017 08:45 AM

Leaving town, means I need to wrap the bar up as the bolts it uses hold the bumper on....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3841/3...3169ce2a_b.jpg

A little crooked. :flipoff2: and I have to add some tabs to support the lights it looks like.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2806/3...3e661465_b.jpg

Finished up the kerosene tank mount
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3843/3...04c7f400_b.jpg

Out in the woods
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3791/3...76d2a330_b.jpg

Chill dog
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3931/3...c00b0539_b.jpg


Nice sunset
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2940/3...a942757f_b.jpg

Chuckanut Dr is a bit tight in this thing
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3857/3...938b0ac6_b.jpg

Propane fill goodies came in.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2891/3...1aa36a93_b.jpg

Completely wasted. Collapsed easily by hand and zero rebound.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2812/3...0a8b646b_b.jpg

mwilliamshs 04-03-2017 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40350809)
...Completely wasted. Collapsed easily by hand and zero rebound...

Taken out of context, that could be hilarious.

Looks like a great trip. Love this rig!

Java 04-03-2017 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mwilliamshs (Post 40353585)
Taken out of context, that could be hilarious.

Looks like a great trip. Love this rig!

LOL Shocks had whiskey dick :D

CDA 455 04-03-2017 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40354009)
LOL Shocks had whiskey dick :D

:laughing:


How many miles on the shocks?

Java 04-03-2017 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CDA 455 (Post 40354985)
:laughing:


How many miles on the shocks?

106k on the truck, might have to do the fronts too.... rear is what felt bouncy though

Java 04-05-2017 08:56 AM

Propane tank is in! My god that was not fun, its tight, like really really tight, cant lift the tank up, it has to be tilted and wiggled into place.... Apologize in advance for crappy pics, its tight. :D

The front side of the tank got through bolted through the floor, its under the fridge, which meant fridge had to come back out. Back side I couldn't do that as it would have been right inside the door. So I made some brackets, they go under the flange on the tank, pickup both bolts, and then bolt sideways through the floor member. Getting all that lined up with the tank in place was interesting.

Brackets with the lovely blue paint
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2941/3...8b16e9be_b.jpg

And in place.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2873/3...90de6f4c_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2910/3...23fbb104_b.jpg

Remember it was tight? Its touching the spring hanger.....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2876/3...4f0267b1_b.jpg

A little sawzall action and more better. Hopefully that not enough to cause structural issues in the hanger.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2921/3...1dabf8d5_b.jpg

Tucked up nicely, you cant even see it if your not looking. It will get a healthy coat of bed liner next.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2883/3...11bcb6bd_b.jpg

bigun 04-05-2017 11:40 AM

How often do you have to replace the top on your work table?

Java 04-05-2017 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigun (Post 40374529)
How often do you have to replace the top on your work table?

:flipoff2: that was the only sunny spot I could find to try to get the paint to dry :D

Java 04-06-2017 09:08 AM

Nothing real exciting, but a little more progress. Made up the first battery cable, big thanks to Cascadian for letting me borrow his crimpers! They are sweet. Self adhesive shrink tube is awesome.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2877/3...37410b75_b.jpg

New cable let me install the shunt for the Victron battery meter. While I like the RJ45 connections for the meter, damn getting those heads fished through holes sucks!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3938/3...f10bf202_b.jpg

Gotta install this end still... But it works!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2818/3...e42a775c_b.jpg

87manche 04-06-2017 10:25 AM

buy some cheap network crimpers and some ends.
cut the ends off, fish wires through a much smaller hole, recrimp on the other side.

They're super easy to make.
You can fit a cat 5 cable through a 1/4 hole.

Java 04-06-2017 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87manche (Post 40384873)
buy some cheap network crimpers and some ends.
cut the ends off, fish wires through a much smaller hole, recrimp on the other side.

They're super easy to make.
You can fit a cat 5 cable through a 1/4 hole.

Thought about it, but that requires finding the fucking tools in my mess of a garage. Holes wont be seen except in one spot anyway. Its done :D

87manche 04-06-2017 02:11 PM

please do the needful.

Java 04-06-2017 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87manche (Post 40387377)
please do the needful.

?

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

MarkObtinaro 04-07-2017 12:42 AM

Your propane tank install looks really good.

I know those tanks are built stout but I think I would still put something like a hard rubber mud flap between it and the tires to protect it.

It won't protect it very much if you are using a set of tire chains and a cross link breaks and starts to hammer everything to pieces under there. But from the normal slings and arrows that attack us it should keep it looking nice for quite a while.

Elwenil 04-07-2017 04:29 AM

Agreed, a mudflap from a truck would be a great thing to stick in there and keep most of what can be thrown at it from damaging the tank. It would probably still get shredded by a broken tire chain eventually so you would still need to be vigilant. I'd also look at flexing the suspension and frame a bit and see if that hanger will ever get in a position to contact the tank. A piece of hard rubber line like hydraulic line split down the middle used as edging might keep the occasional contact from damaging the tank.

Java 04-07-2017 07:00 AM

A mud flap does sound just about right. I'd have to figure out how to hold the bottom in place as it couldn't hang down straight. Enough people have said something that I will figure out a skid/flap of some sort.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

MT4Runner 04-07-2017 08:31 AM

Or a piece of plastic fuel/oil drum (1/8"+ thick PE). Rivet it at the top and maybe add a piece of angle at the bottom to rivet to.

Java 04-07-2017 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 40395761)
Or a piece of plastic fuel/oil drum (1/8"+ thick PE). Rivet it at the top and maybe add a piece of angle at the bottom to rivet to.

Yeah another suggestion was to bond a sheet of alum to the tank with ~1/4" gap. Might be easiest.

Its a jungle behind the fridge...

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2906/3...13fcab00_b.jpg

But the stove works!! (and my phone sucks at pics...)
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2933/3...948b0e47_b.jpg

CDA 455 04-07-2017 09:06 AM

Very nice :beer: !

87manche 04-07-2017 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40387553)
?

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

IT guy joke.

http://s2.quickmeme.com/img/6d/6d309...2855cc5236.jpg
it's a common indian phrase.

Java 04-07-2017 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87manche (Post 40396969)
IT guy joke.

http://s2.quickmeme.com/img/6d/6d309...2855cc5236.jpg
it's a common indian phrase.

Ah I see, not in IT obviously. :flipoff2:

MT4Runner 04-07-2017 10:48 AM

I assumed it either meant "buy a crimper and redo the RJ-47" or... "rub one out". :laughing: :flipoff2:

Pt_Ranger_V8 04-08-2017 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 40397665)
I assumed it either meant "buy a crimper and redo the RJ-47" or... "rub one out". :laughing: :flipoff2:

Why not both? :flipoff2: :smokin:

GLTHFJ60 04-10-2017 10:37 AM

I like the location you chose for the tank. Nice work :D

Java 04-10-2017 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLTHFJ60 (Post 40424185)
I like the location you chose for the tank. Nice work :D

Thanks! Out skiing, kinda miss having the truck! Whistler is not camping friendly at all....

Got last chair yesterday, my legs are feeling it today! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...95eea13b95.jpg

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Java 04-11-2017 05:03 PM

Took the truck to the dump station near me, one 10' hose is just enough for that spot!

Need to make a 45 adapter thing for the cleanout, hose is too stiff to get in and down enough.

ANDDDD got it stuck in the damn driveway again.... buried the front axle. Got it out... Its parked on the other side of the driveway now... The good news is it might have a posi rear end. I had two holes at the back wheels. (it had a gear shop tag on the keys when i got it too)

And built a drawer. May have gone overboard with the pocket screws...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3951/3...f9622a31_b.jpg

Lots of storage there.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3938/3...6a1fb7d6_b.jpg

Java 04-14-2017 09:38 AM

A little bit more whenever i get a free minute!

Pantry drawer done
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2931/3...e7f5ae4d_b.jpg

Battery monitor and T stat mounted.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2946/3...67bc937a_b.jpg

CDA 455 04-14-2017 10:05 AM

Looking good!

Java 04-14-2017 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CDA 455 (Post 40467505)
Looking good!

Thanks! Off to use it again this weekend :D

Java 04-21-2017 08:37 AM

Little work yesterday between rain showers.

Added support tabs for the lights.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2881/3...1a46d4d6_b.jpg

Drilled lots of holes, mounted. Need 3 longer bolts....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2908/3...2b788976_b.jpg

I think this is really going to bother me.... Middle one is a single I bought from a different mfg. Mount was a little different height, but I didn't realize it was thinner as well. Ugh
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2935/3...8da04f1e_b.jpg

MR4WD 04-21-2017 08:57 AM

Don't think it'll matter much to anybody else. I'm interested to see how they work in real life though, they're going for dirt cheap on eBay - I was considering a few!

Java 04-21-2017 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MR4WD (Post 40532993)
Don't think it'll matter much to anybody else. I'm interested to see how they work in real life though, they're going for dirt cheap on eBay - I was considering a few!

Yeah they are stupid cheap now. It hits the hood too, so pushing it out another 1/2" would help. I mocked up with the other ones....

I hooked one to the battery when I got them just for giggles. Bright was fawk describes it well :flipoff2: I think three is going to be lovely huge amounts of overkill. I am thinking I will get a set for my DD too, I have 7" HIDS on there and these blow them away.

One thing, make sure you get SPOT beam, even spots are pretty wide (as with most cheap LED goodies) Id say they are more "driving" or euro pattern, Ill get some pics up once they are wired.

crazybluerider 04-21-2017 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40533041)
I am thinking I will get a set for my DD too, I have 7" HIDS on there and these blow them away.

It'll be interesting to see what you think at speed. I've found most of these LED lights are great at slow speed for wheelers and that kind of thing but just don't have the optics for the range you need at highway speeds.

Java 04-21-2017 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazybluerider (Post 40533113)
It'll be interesting to see what you think at speed. I've found most of these LED lights are great at slow speed for wheelers and that kind of thing but just don't have the optics for the range you need at highway speeds.

I totally agree. These are better than the cheap light bars of the past, they actually have optics on the emitters, not just a reflector. But I haven't actually driven with them yet.

Im interested to see how they do at speed as well.

On my DD i have great headlights, so they are really more for slow speed infill.

crazybluerider 04-21-2017 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40533281)
I totally agree. These are better than the cheap light bars of the past, they actually have optics on the emitters, not just a reflector. But I haven't actually driven with them yet.

Im interested to see how they do at speed as well.

On my DD i have great headlights, so they are really more for slow speed infill.

It's something I'm fighting with on my RZR. The light bars are great for foward lighting on a wheeler at 10mph but on the RZR's they destroy your night vision and are worthless at dune speeds.

Packaging is an issue for nice big HID's though. I may go with Baja designs LED headlight conversions but I've also been eyeballing the new KC LED light bar 4" reflectors with 20w of LED in them may actually get some throw. Can't find any reviews I trust though.

/hijack off

I've been following this whole build, I'd really like to do something similar. Seems a lot better suited to our type of needs over a regular motorhome.

zspace 04-22-2017 02:01 PM

those lights look good anybody got a link or special keyword great work by the way

Java 04-22-2017 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zspace (Post 40544377)
those lights look good anybody got a link or special keyword great work by the way

This is the two pack I got, a little deeper than the center one, some crappy casting marks, but the lenses snap on really well.

Nilight 2 Piece 185W 9" Round LED Work Light 12V Fog Driving Roof Bar Bumper off-Road Light Bar for Truck Car ATV SUV Jeep Boat ATV Auxiliary Red, 2 y https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XFHPH6..._fIkRQv4mJ6tq2

This is the center one, nicer bracket, shallower, has a nut keeper thing that makes install a little easier. Thicker wires also. Lens pops off easy.

Tiauto 185w 9 Inch Red Round Waterproof LED Working Light SUV Off road Boat Headlight Flood Driving Fog work Light For Jeep Grand Cherokee Kit ATV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HZ0FT76..._n1JP2D2aBdDXL

They are both knock offs of the ARB intensity lights.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

zspace 04-23-2017 05:13 PM

thank you

Java 04-27-2017 11:02 AM

We spent the weekend in it again.

We look a little large on the ferry.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3933/3...1a02d2e0_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2927/3...52365e89_b.jpg

And for a poopy update

One 10' hose works great ( I have two)
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2806/3...daccf12f_b.jpg

And The clean out works ok. Not as good as I hoped, but I dont have to get on the roof....

If I close the dump valve, I have to turn the flow on the rinse hose way down as the air has to come out the same vent. Never had an issue with this going straight in the roof. Im tempted to add a hose connection to the tank, just below the top next to the dump valve.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2860/3...5a9a7ee8_b.jpg

MT4Runner 04-27-2017 12:16 PM

Protip: buy a clear 45° elbow for the top.

Java 04-27-2017 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 40590873)
Protip: buy a clear 45° elbow for the top.

Yeah had one on the old rig.... Do kinda miss seeing the turds float by [emoji3]

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

87manche 04-27-2017 02:02 PM

get an elbow to stick in your cleanout that redirects it back to vertical.

that way you can pull the hose out and you'll have room for the escaping air.

Java 04-27-2017 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87manche (Post 40591881)
get an elbow to stick in your cleanout that redirects it back to vertical.

that way you can pull the hose out and you'll have room for the escaping air.

I have a 45 and a foot or so of pipe, still overflowed the pipe.... I'll try vertical I you think it will actually work better than a 45. It still enters the pipe at a 90 degree angle...

EDIT: pipe not seen in that pic... I tried it later. I was kinda laughing at myself for taking pics of dumping the truck

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

aczlan 04-27-2017 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40590313)
If I close the dump valve, I have to turn the flow on the rinse hose way down as the air has to come out the same vent. Never had an issue with this going straight in the roof. Im tempted to add a hose connection to the tank, just below the top next to the dump valve.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2860/3...5a9a7ee8_b.jpg

I would replace your first elbow with something like this, or replace your current tee with the same and then push the hose down 2-3 feet:
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...91d71_1000.jpg
2 in. x 2 in. x 1-1/2 in. ABS DWV H x H x H Wye-C5810HD22112 - The Home Depot
That way there are less elbows between the tank and the end of the hose and the water has to go further uphill to get out.
Also, the water will flow down better that way than if you use your current right angle tee.

Aaron Z

Java 04-27-2017 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aczlan (Post 40592121)
I would replace your first elbow with something like this, or replace your current tee with the same and then push the hose down 2-3 feet:
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...91d71_1000.jpg
2 in. x 2 in. x 1-1/2 in. ABS DWV H x H x H Wye-C5810HD22112 - The Home Depot
That way there are less elbows between the tank and the end of the hose and the water has to go further uphill to get out.
Also, the water will flow down better that way than if you use your current right angle tee.

Aaron Z

That first elbow is 3" straight up from the tank. I think I want a little more splash back protection :eek: But yeah a Y instead of a cleanout T would have likely worked better. I was trying to keep the most space possible and the T is a much smaller fitting. I built a screw in 45 for the hose.

aczlan 04-27-2017 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40592153)
That first elbow is 3" straight up from the tank. I think I want a little more splash back protection :eek: But yeah a Y instead of a cleanout T would have likely worked better. I was trying to keep the most space possible and the T is a much smaller fitting. I built a screw in 45 for the hose.

Ah, I was thinking it was a little farther away.

Aaron Z

Java 04-28-2017 08:25 AM

Worked on the propane tank some more.

A load of undercoating on it. Thats some nasty shit.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2852/3...75c1c094_b.jpg

Also got a big rig mud flap, I think it should work well. Gotta do some hacking, but it looks like I can anchor across the top, and at the bottom outside corner to the body.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2839/3...b5c54573_b.jpg

Then added a deck plate to the back side of the tool box on the passenger side so I can get to the gas valve.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4165/3...f466f030_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2890/3...0072553e_b.jpg

ben2go 04-28-2017 12:05 PM

Good idear on that mud flap and deck hatch.

Java 05-01-2017 08:49 AM

Tried to get to one of our regular spots. Ran into 8-10" of wet sloppy snow that was more than we wanted to try to get through solo.

Oh well. There is a nice quite CG close by
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4178/3...531132c9_b.jpg

Snow wasn't far off.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2843/3...8b0ecd56_b.jpg


This was a first long stretch of gravel we had done, not too bad on the smoother sections but the pot holed areas were brutal. Like 10mph crawl at best, otherwise I thought I would break the truck. This has me thinking about wheels/tires/lift/springs etc. Ill take any input here....

A couple things, these are G rated tires (IIRC!) 14 ply sidewalls. Great on the highway, fine on smooth gravel, ouch in potholes. Has anyone had experience going from a 19.5 tire to a 20" LT? Or too a less load rated 19.5?

Or will a spring change (kelderman airbags in the front?) make more of a difference? It felt like it was front end for the worst of it....

CDA 455 05-01-2017 09:00 AM

Very nice!

parkers30 05-01-2017 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40623481)
Or will a spring change (kelderman airbags in the front?) make more of a difference? It felt like it was front end for the worst of it....

My dad has been able to reduce the gravel road and washboard rattles by putting load assist air bags in the back of his old motorhome, and they are in the new one as well.

The factory build class C rigs are generally fairly light on the front and he tows a big car hauler, so he's rear axle heavy and the add-a-leaf style air bags seemed to help soften the rear just enough to take the rattles out.

I'd think you should start with running the rig over a CAT scale or similar to know where you are on axle and tire weights. Even just lower tire pressures can help a lot.

Java 05-01-2017 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by parkers30 (Post 40623849)
My dad has been able to reduce the gravel road and washboard rattles by putting load assist air bags in the back of his old motorhome, and they are in the new one as well.

The factory build class C rigs are generally fairly light on the front and he tows a big car hauler, so he's rear axle heavy and the add-a-leaf style air bags seemed to help soften the rear just enough to take the rattles out.

I'd think you should start with running the rig over a CAT scale or similar to know where you are on axle and tire weights. Even just lower tire pressures can help a lot.

Yeah I know I really need to get weighed, but I was trying to wait until I was done with the build... Im guessing 14k ish

It does have added bags in the rear, and I think your right, the rear didn't feel as bad as the front.

I cant drop pressure on the 19.5's, no safety bead... 75 (maybe 65?) min. Im at 75 in the front and 80 rear.

parkers30 05-01-2017 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40623905)
Yeah I know I really need to get weighed, but I was trying to wait until I was done with the build... Im guessing 14k ish

It does have added bags in the rear, and I think your right, the rear didn't feel as bad as the front.

I cant drop pressure on the 19.5's, no safety bead... 75 (maybe 65?) min. Im at 75 in the front and 80 rear.

Scale tickets around here are usually $13. Its worth it for the data point and piece of mind for me.

I was thinking 19.5's were like that, but I didn't know.

Java 05-01-2017 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by parkers30 (Post 40623969)
Scale tickets around here are usually $13. Its worth it for the data point and piece of mind for me.

I was thinking 19.5's were like that, but I didn't know.

Yeah I will be getting weighed for sure, but I still have cabinets, hot water heater, water tank etc to add, so I was waiting on it. I think there is a local scale at the cement plant that $10 but no axle weights, just total.

Java 05-09-2017 08:40 AM

Found a few hours yesterday between soccer practice, dinner and homework with the kid....

Propane tank mud flap is done, man are those things hard to cut!

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4163/3...b133e91d_b.jpg

Bolted to the body on the outside
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4177/3...a66d5aec_b.jpg

and a piece of cable on the inside. Hopefully this keeps it off the tire. Handy slot/hole was already in the spring hanger, I think it will stay put.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4173/3...60924216_b.jpg

Finished up the last big wall panel, still lots of trim work, and skinning the door. But this piece keeps the insulation in place and give it a much more complete feel.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4169/3...6afa6592_b.jpg

Caulked in the back side, this is kinda a "wet room" skis, ez up sleds etc. That should keep the water from running under the floor into the living space. There is a fair bit of storage back there, but I wish I had made it 1" deeper....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4180/3...306d8a25_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4170/3...879d977c_b.jpg

Got the inverter mounted, and the hot side cable done. Man everything takes FOREVER! Climb under bed, forget some little piece/tool, climb out, walk to garage, climb back under bed. Repeat ad nauseum.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4168/3...7aa12b6a_b.jpg

oldchevy4x4 05-09-2017 06:55 PM

Just read all the way through and it took about a week of lunch breaks! Great build! Can't wait to see what you come up with for the suspension.

As far as weight goes do you have any grain elivators near by? There are a few by me and they always leave the scales on after hours. It's not be axle but with no one around you could pull the front on and then the back.


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Java 05-09-2017 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldchevy4x4 (Post 40704833)
Just read all the way through and it took about a week of lunch breaks! Great build! Can't wait to see what you come up with for the suspension.

As far as weight goes do you have any grain elivators near by? There are a few by me and they always leave the scales on after hours. It's not be axle but with no one around you could pull the front on and then the back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Glad your enjoyed it!

No grain elevators, I know where there is a rendering plant that has a scale on all the time, but it's an hour each way.

I'm guessing I'm going to be close the GVWR.

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87manche 05-09-2017 07:10 PM

Public Truck Scale Locations

see there for maybe a closer scale.

Java 05-09-2017 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87manche (Post 40704945)
Public Truck Scale Locations

see there for maybe a closer scale.

There is one at the Cement plant a couple miles away, not axle weights, and not on the dot list anymore, but I'll likely swing by there, it was ~$10 last time for a certified weight.

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Elwenil 05-09-2017 07:40 PM

Just about everywhere is close to a truck stop.

bdkw1 05-09-2017 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40705009)
There is one at the Cement plant a couple miles away, not axle weights

Drive the front axle on and have them write it down then weigh the whole thing. This is what I do at the scrap yard.

Java 05-09-2017 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdkw1 (Post 40705321)
Drive the front axle on and have them write it down then weigh the whole thing. This is what I do at the scrap yard.

That could work!

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mwilliamshs 05-09-2017 08:00 PM

If there's room to be half on the scale and still level, that's a fine way to get axle weights.

When chasing an overly stiff suspension bug, try removing shocks on one end then drive. You may be surprised how resistant to move they can be.

Java 05-09-2017 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mwilliamshs (Post 40705361)
If there's room to be half on the scale and still level, that's a fine way to get axle weights.

When chasing an overly stiff suspension bug, try removing shocks on one end then drive. You may be surprised how resistant to move they can be.

Good point, not level at the one near me.

Rear shocks were toast and it was bouncy. Replaced them with 5100's and it feels very planted now.

I'm guessing the front could use them too. It does a bounce over whoops, but not like the rear was. But you couldn't tell before.

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nhnissan 05-09-2017 08:05 PM

I got a certified weight slip for free at the dump in Sequim.

Would probably take more than 10 bucks in fuel though.

Java 05-09-2017 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhnissan (Post 40705425)
I got a certified weight slip for free at the dump in Sequim.

Would probably take more than 10 bucks in fuel though.

Really? A certified? (not that I need it, but did for a trailer build)

The seattle transfer station is close to work for me. I wonder if they would just give me a weight.

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nhnissan 05-09-2017 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40705473)
Really? A certified? (not that I need it, but did for a trailer build)

The seattle transfer station is close to work for me. I wonder if they would just give me a weight.

Yep, certified.

I dont see why they wouldn't, unless the rules are different in seattle. You would probably see the weight when you pull up to the window to ask anyways.

Java 05-09-2017 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhnissan (Post 40705649)
Yep, certified.

I dont see why they wouldn't, unless the rules are different in seattle. You would probably see the weight when you pull up to the window to ask anyways.

Exactly what I was thinking ;)

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Java 05-23-2017 01:40 PM

100W folding panel, looks like they took one of the "flexible" panels and cut it in half. Its very small when folded. It will be paired with a Victron MPPT controller.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4197/3...a44eb30d_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4197/3...a77298ed_b.jpg

Charger is wired. Ran a piece of flextite conduit between the tool box on the drivers side and the battery area. This is so I can run my incoming power cable from there. Also ran a pair of 8 gauge wires for the solar hook up. The solar controller will likely be mounted next to the batteries though. The other two glands re for my 2/0 DC power wires.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4268/3...3d859445_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4202/3...42040e6a_b.jpg

And in the box I have about 20' of 20 amp cord, and the two solar wires. Tools and fluids live there too.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4247/3...313dde0b_b.jpg

And wires up to the inverter charger.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4204/3...98d2bccb_b.jpg

Also started on my 120V breaker box.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4271/3...bdceb229_b.jpg

Then it was time for more holes..... Water heater intake/exhaust.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4223/3...feb53fe1_b.jpg

I even managed to get the hole from the inside and outside to line up :D
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4245/3...1563f682_b.jpg

Java 05-23-2017 01:40 PM

Its a concentric vent, intake around the outside, exhaust down the middle. All stainless which is nice.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4220/3...1f26a825_b.jpg

And all done.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4226/3...e740cf4b_b.jpg

And since It was almost 90 yesterday we thought we should give sticker peeling a go! Man it came off so much better than when it was cold out! No more sponsor names, just the number either side now. There was even a second layer of blue on the front!

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4269/3...379a3dcb_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4195/3...35684dce_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4244/3...1dce66ea_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4204/3...a33fb349_b.jpg

GLTHFJ60 05-24-2017 10:06 AM

Just bad ass!! Are you going to put more stickers up there?

Java 05-24-2017 10:09 AM

Thanks! Nope, we were just trying to get the PO's sponsors off. We would like to get a new wrap done at some point, but its crazy $$

FC4X4 05-24-2017 12:49 PM

:smokin:

rockota 05-24-2017 06:04 PM

I loved the stickers. :(

Java 05-24-2017 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockota (Post 40850097)
I loved the stickers. :(

Just the sponsor names came off.... The rest is still there. It was kinda weird having someone else's sponsors and name on it.

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SSSRodeo 05-24-2017 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40850857)
Just the sponsor names came off.... The rest is still there. It was kinda weird having someone else's sponsors and name on it.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

I agree! I they aren't paying for the advertising to be there, then they belong in the trash. No free rides!

Java 05-24-2017 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSSRodeo (Post 40851009)
I agree! I they aren't paying for the advertising to be there, then they belong in the trash. No free rides!

Ha yep! If they wanted to pay that would have been fine! Lol

One was also the PO's name/company which was kinda weird to keep.

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Java 05-25-2017 10:51 AM

More last night...

Water tank is in, strapped in place, and hopefully stays there. Glad I didn't get a bigger tank, no way I would have gotten the fittings on the end.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4228/3...ae83bf32_b.jpg

Water outlet, drain valve on the right will need to go down though the floor.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4273/3...5150dc87_b.jpg

And in place, it fit exactly tight against the wall.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4201/3...41d110b2_b.jpg

Water heater mounted, the blue can will be the grey tank.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4202/3...2fde11f8_b.jpg

I did get the water ran to the other dinette bench and to the valve before the water pump. But that was it. Man its tight and takes forever! All the rest of my pics are blurry....

350TacoZilla 05-28-2017 01:49 AM

Looks great man, I have thought about doing the box truck to rv conversion a ton of times but with lower end budget.

On tires your kinda in a tough spot since really you shouldnt install over a 245 on those wheels but I have seen a ton of 265's on the fords. I had 245/70r19.5 drives all way around on my 550 and they seemed to ride better at same psi than the 225's did but not much. If you were open to going to a much bigger tire like earthroamer style the military 335/80r20's are starting to pop up avail but they are something like 41 tall. Only other options I can think of are the 36x19.5 iroks or the founders that they use on brush trucks.

https://firematic.com/founders_mt.htm

I had seen where buckstop now has a similar setup also but again 41" tire not 35-37.
Buckstop Single Wheel Conversion Kit

Trust me you not going to like the price on those, other option would be go to a 22.5 conversion and run a drive tire all around with a ton of different sizes avail that route. But ride certainly isnt going to improve unless you move up to floats or something.

Java 05-28-2017 09:06 AM

Thanks for the reply! I'm pretty damn happy with how it's coming out.

I think going to a super single is the only route to go to get reasonable size and better ride.

Nitto has a 37x13.5 mtr style tread that's rated for 4100 ish pounds. That plus a set of first attack wheels is my end goal I think. It's a huge budget hit though, and I'll probably wear these tires out first as they are nearly new.

I need to get weighted to see what I'm at and figure out what I need for tires on the rear end.

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350TacoZilla 05-28-2017 10:21 PM

Yeah I think any of the fabbed 20" wheels would work might just come down to price on them for ya if you shop around.I think stockton wheel will make 20's for you in any pattern also though not sure what they run $ wise. Other option would be the MRAP steel or alloy wheels with an adapter to go to your lug pattern, I think they are 20x11 or so. Heck even the old 5 ton/fmtv rims might work with an adapter.

First Attack- $400 ea
Fire Matic- $595 ea
Stazworks- $460 ea or add $80 for dually it says, they will also recenter a military wheel by look of their price chart.

I would be curious about your loaded weight on rear axle for sure since you would be going down to 2 tires rated at 4100 (unless you were going to try for duals with the 20's) I would bet though even if the nitto's are ok weight wise they would wear out pretty quick on that thing.

Java 05-28-2017 10:26 PM

I'm passing a weigh station tomorrow I think! Plan to stop.

Yeah I think axle weights would be very telling.

I Wish the MRAP wheels bolted up, but Ford didn't use Budd spacing sadly.

The first attack get good reviews and are priced right....

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350TacoZilla 05-28-2017 10:35 PM

The MRAP's are hub centric with a huge 11"ish bolt circle. Fmtv/5-ton combats are budd style lug centrics in the 10 lug semi pattern.

IMG_3214.jpeg Photo by healeyjet | Photobucket

Those are mraps with a adapter to go to dodge 10 lug already bolted on in pic for a idea of what you would be looking at.

Java 05-29-2017 01:56 PM

Those are custom Hutchinson's not standard MRAP stuff.

Ward's truck is bad ass! We met up when he was in town, it's really nice.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c4f1b7d367.jpg

Got weighed on the way home! Loaded, two dogs, three people, half a tank of water. 14.3k

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d0e9523f2c.jpg

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ben2go 05-29-2017 05:54 PM

I was thinking about 11,000lbs. Where's the gold load you're hiding in that truck?

Java 05-29-2017 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 40891569)
I was thinking about 11,000lbs. Where's the gold load you're hiding in that truck?

Ha I wish, stock truck was 8500 ish!

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350TacoZilla 05-29-2017 08:57 PM

Ah cool that you know him lol, I'm not trying to say anything about the guy he got the wheels from but are you sure they are custom other than just the adapter? I have had 3 different sets of the military wheels in my hands before and I swear those look like the standard MRAP with an adapter plate bolted in. I think the stock MRAPs are made by Hutchinson, there are 2 or 3 different style of them though all from mrap including some steel and some aluminum ones.

If his set is custom I would hate to think of cost each, I can get the stock aluminum mraps for like $90 each and the steel for $50 each. I would imagine a set of custom adapters would run few hundred but might still be way ahead cost wise than getting any of the custom wheels, especially since you could then just pick up a spare stock mrap wheel to keep in garage incase you ever need it.

Anywho either way on wheels I would say that your axle weight nix's the idea of single nittos in back since the 4100 load rating would basically be maxed all the time.

Java 05-29-2017 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 40893873)
Ah cool that you know him lol, I'm not trying to say anything about the guy he got the wheels from but are you sure they are custom other than just the adapter? I have had 3 different sets of the military wheels in my hands before and I swear those look like the standard MRAP with an adapter plate bolted in. I think the stock MRAPs are made by Hutchinson, there are 2 or 3 different style of them though all from mrap including some steel and some aluminum ones.

Anywho I would say that you axle weight nix's the idea of single nittos in back since the 4100 load rating would basically be maxed all the time.

Yep I agree on the axle weight, I Need to get military type tires or keep the duals.

Yeah I am petty sure those are custom, mayeb just centers tho. Ford used a random spacing.... 225x10 iirc

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350TacoZilla 05-29-2017 09:33 PM

Yeah I think thats what pattern his dodge should be too, my old 550 was the 8x225 before they made the jump to 10 lug.

If you go military tires his set might be about the shortest ones avail right now at 40-41 tall. Up front you could either go bushwacker cut out flares and coil spacer lift or get a set of the flared desert truck style fenders, not sure how much clearance you have in back but you might get off easy back there with just small solid block and the air bags.

Java 05-29-2017 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 40894121)
Yeah I think thats what pattern his dodge should be too, my old 550 was the 8x225 before they made the jump to 10 lug.

If you go military tires his set might be about the shortest ones avail right now at 40-41 tall. Up front you could either go bushwacker cut out flares and coil spacer lift or get a set of the flared desert truck style fenders, not sure how much clearance you have in back but you might get off easy back there with just small solid block and the air bags.

Yep that'd about as small as they come. ~40", mine is a 10x 225mm.

We will see where I end up!

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gtxracer 05-29-2017 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40890465)
Those are custom Hutchinson's not standard MRAP stuff.

Ward's truck is bad ass! We met up when he was in town, it's really nice. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c4f1b7d367.jpg
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Build thread on the other rig?

I think yours on bigger axles and mil-spec 38s would be about the same look. Nitro Gear and Axle did a similar build. MRAP axles seem overkill for sure, I'd probably look at the Super60 stuff. I don't remember what yours had from the start, but a S110 rear would go nicely with that. Hard to find these types of rigs!

Java 05-30-2017 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gtxracer (Post 40894961)
Build thread on the other rig?

I think yours on bigger axles and mil-spec 38s would be about the same look. Nitro Gear and Axle did a similar build. MRAP axles seem overkill for sure, I'd probably look at the Super60 stuff. I don't remember what yours had from the start, but a S110 rear would go nicely with that. Hard to find these types of rigs!

While MRAP or rockwells sounds fun, I dont see it happening any time soon. Its just so nice and drive able right now. Its also already about 12' tall. I dont need any more height!

Wheels and tires are much more of a possibility.

Its a Super 60 and S110 full float rear now.

Build thread for the silver truck :D Dodge Ram 5500 motorhome - Expedition Portal

The Nitro rig is fucking awesome, hes local ish to me as well. Really nice truck. Its even heavier than mine though, IIRC he said he was over 10k on the rear axle. He's running custom springs, a lift block and the bushwacker cutouts in the front.

Java 05-30-2017 09:51 AM

Here is a recap on the thrash that was Friday. Whoever decided I needed to get the water done before we left was a little nuts.... Needless to say, the three hours I had planned for it wasn't enough. Oh well, I dragged my *** out of bed at 6:30 and got to work.

I had to connect the tank to the water heater, both of which were installed at this point, then do all the tank fill side of things, install the water pump, wire all that stuff, and do the grey tank. (yeah typing all that out reminds me three hours were not nearly enough, planned to work 7-10, cleanup and pack and leave at 12)

So to start we have to install the faucet. Kids oil based clay works great for making a dam.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4219/3...a16c562f_b.jpg

Now you hope and prey you don't break the tile.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4273/3...955fa54c_b.jpg

Breathe again....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4269/3...869304fe_b.jpg

And drop the faucet in. One thing checked off the list.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4225/3...50f6ca53_b.jpg

Run water lines.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4223/3...471690f2_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4245/3...28fd269a_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4249/3...1269e494_b.jpg

Hook up water pump, used flex here to try to keep noise and vibrations in the lines down.... Pump is god damn loud. Its a used one I have had in my garage for years now.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4248/3...366564d4_b.jpg

Install fill and vent.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4197/3...2b38bdd1_b.jpg

Add water. Chase leaks. I hate threaded fittings!!!! PEX is awesome though.

Hot water coming out!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4270/3...214c183f_b.jpg

Apparently I took zero pics of the grey tank. Its the blue jug, its a hose barb fitting off the end of the strainer basket, a piece of 1" vinyl tube. Works really well actually.



Truck drove great all weekend, towed the boat at 70 no problem.

ben2go 05-30-2017 10:01 AM

Mount the pump on rubber. It'll help quite it down inside the cabin.

Java 05-30-2017 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 40898185)
Mount the pump on rubber. It'll help quite it down inside the cabin.

I will have to. It had rubber feet, but its also screwed to a steel floor.... A big ass piece of rubber or neoprene should help :D

ennored 05-30-2017 10:08 AM

Noise
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 40898185)
Mount the pump on rubber. It'll help quite it down inside the cabin.

And add more soft hose on the output side, like 3'. Looks like a 360° loop would fit nicely.

Java 05-30-2017 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ennored (Post 40898313)
And add more soft hose on the output side, like 3'. Looks like a 360° loop would fit nicely.

Think that will really make a difference? It didn't seem to be hammering the pipes if that makes sense. But yeah I should have room to do a loop there.

ben2go 05-30-2017 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40898497)
Think that will really make a difference? It didn't seem to be hammering the pipes if that makes sense. But yeah I should have room to do a loop there.

It's worked for me in the past. Mounting a pump solid to a thin wall causes it to resonate like a drum. I have went so far as to mount them outside the cabin in the bottom of a tool box or the bottom of a storage area.

350TacoZilla 06-02-2017 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gtxracer (Post 40894961)
Build thread on the other rig?

I think yours on bigger axles and mil-spec 38s would be about the same look. Nitro Gear and Axle did a similar build. MRAP axles seem overkill for sure, I'd probably look at the Super60 stuff. I don't remember what yours had from the start, but a S110 rear would go nicely with that. Hard to find these types of rigs!

He actually just has the MRAP wheel/tire package on the magna and dana axles, probably about the same strength as the Super 60 and D110 not sure if dodge uses a 110 or the 135 rear.

Java- Keep up the great work man truck is coming together really nice.

Java 06-02-2017 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 40945129)
He actually just has the MRAP wheel/tire package on the magna and dana axles, probably about the same strength as the Super 60 and D110 not sure if dodge uses a 110 or the 135 rear.

Java- Keep up the great work man truck is coming together really nice.

Ah cool, I got a quote from first attack for their 20" Super singles and conti mpt81's in a 275/80 /20. Fawking expensive..... Great product and tires I want but too much $$

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350TacoZilla 06-03-2017 04:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40945377)
Ah cool, I got a quote from first attack for their 20" Super singles and conti mpt81's in a 275/80 /20. Fawking expensive..... Great product and tires I want but too much $$

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk


Other problem is the conti's have a history or wearing out quick, like swamper quick. The way to go is either rig based stuff or the military goodyear/michelin xzl's heck I was skimming through auctions other night and found some of the new xzl2's in the 335/80r20 (again I know taller than your looking for but the price difference between off the shelf 37-39's and these mil spec 41's is a huge offset.) I have seriously looked into using the 11.00r20 Goodyear G177's that my M923 came with under a pickup since the tires themselves are tubeless its just the stock rims that require the tubes but again they are 41" tall or so.


cdbd775cf960__1366324823000 - Copy_zpsg220i3tv.jpg Photo by 350TacoZilla | Photobucket

Java 06-03-2017 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 40947137)
Other problem is the conti's have a history or wearing out quick, like swamper quick. The way to go is either rig based stuff or the military goodyear/michelin xzl's heck I was skimming through auctions other night and found some of the new xzl2's in the 335/80r20 (again I know taller than your looking for but the price difference between off the shelf 37-39's and these mil spec 41's is a huge offset.) I have seriously looked into using the 11.00r20 Goodyear G177's that my M923 came with under a pickup since the tires themselves are tubeless its just the stock rims that require the tubes but again they are 41" tall or so.


cdbd775cf960__1366324823000 - Copy_zpsg220i3tv.jpg Photo by 350TacoZilla | Photobucket

Yeah I know they wear out quick, but I just can't find anything else with the weight rating and size. 37ish is what I am aiming for.

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350TacoZilla 06-03-2017 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40948537)
Yeah I know they wear out quick, but I just can't find anything else with the weight rating and size. 37ish is what I am aiming for.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Yep seems like 40" is about the cut off since there is no way your brakes would clear 16.5 hummer wheels I dont think, if they did that would give you the option of the E rated mtrs or bfg baja's which are both rated around 4500lb per tire.

Going up into 22.5 you could run dually 255/70r22.5 which would give you a bit more flotation and a 36.5" tire but not sure if it would be worth doing all that. Well I dont want to fill your entire thread about tires lol so I'll let you get back to the building.

Java 06-03-2017 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 40949977)
Yep seems like 40" is about the cut off since there is no way your brakes would clear 16.5 hummer wheels I dont think, if they did that would give you the option of the E rated mtrs or bfg baja's which are both rated around 4500lb per tire.

Going up into 22.5 you could run dually 255/70r22.5 which would give you a bit more flotation and a 36.5" tire but not sure if it would be worth doing all that. Well I dont want to fill your entire thread about tires lol so I'll let you get back to the building.

Fill away, doesn't bother me a bit, it's half the fun, info for others later on.

Yeah going 22.5 isn't really what I want to do. Honestly I think the contis ate the best bet, but it's more than half of what I have in the build..... Maybe in a few years.

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Java 06-04-2017 11:23 AM

Who doesn't love a fresh roll of 2/0?! House battery wiring day https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6cbd0ee48d.jpg

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vetteboy79 06-04-2017 12:35 PM

Huh. Clever way to dispense that. I like it :)

Java 06-04-2017 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vetteboy79 (Post 40956362)
Huh. Clever way to dispense that. I like it :)

Yeah works great! I love milk crates.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Java 06-05-2017 09:58 AM

It took 25' to get front to rear. Wow that was not fun. Its oiled up well underneath.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4255/3...0370904f_b.jpg

Disappearing into the beast
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4210/3...001f0de1_b.jpg

But its loomed and run the whole way! Need to get come more end connectors and run the ground.

Java 06-07-2017 09:48 AM

Woohoo!! Its charging from the alternators!

Ground run to the frame. Ground the paint off and used an existing bolt/ground spot.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4290/3...6556e949_b.jpg

Connected at the battery (thoughts on an aftermarket/larger terminal?)
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4279/3...e8a7825b_b.jpg

Make the noise! (Project Binky if you dont know the reference.... Check it out on YT, no affiliation.... :) ) Green light means the combiner works and batteries are charging from the engine. Solar controller and wiring can be seen here, and done as well!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4211/3...407a0365_b.jpg

All the electrical goodies to make it all work.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4257/3...9394f32f_b.jpg

And a curtain happened too. Yes the truck is dirty.... we are using it....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4235/3...35fde189_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4235/3...d9a35877_b.jpg

ben2go 06-07-2017 11:00 AM

Now you just need an exhaust vent over the pooper. :laughing:

Java 06-07-2017 11:02 AM

Yeah.... vent is on the wrong side of that wall. Oh well, we get to share :laughing:

Fan on high does clear out the truck pretty quick:shaking:

Elwenil 06-07-2017 12:23 PM

Get some brass battery terminals with the stud and wing nut. Much easier to use and you can quickly disconnect everything for testing or in an emergency.

Java 06-07-2017 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elwenil (Post 40989106)
Get some brass battery terminals with the stud and wing nut. Much easier to use and you can quickly disconnect everything for testing or in an emergency.

Yeah that sounds like a good plan.... A fuse is likely in order as well

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Java 06-08-2017 09:56 AM

Fuse "stud" and a 300 amp fuse.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4223/3...1d0f8c35_b.jpg

And we are now fused for the main run. Yeah I need a battery terminal...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4249/3...966f4622_b.jpg

Picked up a "fitted" sun shade, fits nicely, over my phone holder too. Should help a fair bit, that is a big windshield.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4252/3...774bac54_b.jpg

Jeepskickass 06-10-2017 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 40987226)

Connected at the battery (thoughts on an aftermarket/larger terminal?)
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4279/3...e8a7825b_b.jpg

I'm using military style terminals on my Dodge...

Battery and Battery Cable Accessories

http://custombatterycables.com/images/mil_terminal.jpg

krugford 06-10-2017 10:20 PM

At that point, go for one of these:

https://www.vtewarehouse.com/content...arge4point.php

Java 06-10-2017 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krugford (Post 41022450)
At that point, go for one of these:

https://www.vtewarehouse.com/content...arge4point.php

That's a thought but probably overkill. I'll see what I can find for a military style replacement.

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Java 06-11-2017 01:42 PM

Dinette Table acquired. A little skinny, but man it's going to look awesome!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c7bf55510c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6d4dff0877.jpg

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Pt_Ranger_V8 06-11-2017 06:36 PM

What kind of wood is that?

Find another one that will widen it, and split that thing down the side and splice in the other piece.

Java 06-11-2017 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pt_Ranger_V8 (Post 41028114)
What kind of wood is that?

Find another one that will widen it, and split that thing down the side and splice in the other piece.

It's a 98 year old Lebanese Cedar, they took it out locally.

I'll leave it alone for the time being

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Java 06-13-2017 10:05 AM

Quick overnight trip. This thing drive so nice on the road, potholes still suck.....

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4256/3...d3e2c94a_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4197/3...58e01cbe_b.jpg

Stole a rod holder off the boat....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4285/3...33688322_b.jpg

..... and Instant BBQ
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4251/3...2270c897_b.jpg

christyle 06-13-2017 04:44 PM

Cool build, subscribed. I love seeing these buildouts but can't even imagine tackling them.

Java 06-13-2017 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christyle (Post 41049489)
Cool build, subscribed. I love seeing these buildouts but can't even imagine tackling them.

Thanks! Yeah its a ton of work. I'm getting a bit burnt out, but it's coming together!

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christyle 06-13-2017 05:15 PM

Well it's quite an achievement, looking great!

If one more thing goes wrong with my 1983 Lance Camper, I'm just going to get rid of it and go simple with something like an enclosed trailer with an air mattress and a 5 gallon bucket toilet haha

Java 06-15-2017 08:52 AM

Well the good news is, the 120v side of the wiring is done, bad news is it won't run my coffee maker :( ugh

But the table is installed!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...55f89002a6.jpg

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surpip 06-15-2017 09:09 AM

thats bitchen!

pitchitpitchit 06-15-2017 09:19 AM

Really nice table. I like it!

Java 06-15-2017 09:21 AM

Thanks guys! I think its pretty sweet too. The bark looks sweet, but you cant hardly see it :D

Java 06-15-2017 10:01 AM

OK I dug into the inverter specs..... It should run it. The coffee machine takes 1260W, thats only 10W over the continuous rating, and its claimed to be able to do 150% for up to 60mins.

Snips from the inverter specs:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4242/3...56bf5013_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4219/3...086fe249_z.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4276/3...33b3273a_b.jpg



So I did run 1/0 cables (manual says 4ga, eek), so I should not be getting voltage drop to the inverter. I am wondering if this is just a bad unit? I did get it used..... Whats the easiest way to test inverter output? Thoughts?

MaksWerks 06-16-2017 01:07 PM

a 1250W invertor should run a standard microwave (assuming no other loads).....


You must have one hell of a coffee maker....

Java 06-16-2017 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaksWerks (Post 41082361)
a 1250W invertor should run a standard microwave (assuming no other loads).....


You must have one hell of a coffee maker....

Yep it's an espresso machine :D

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87manche 06-16-2017 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaksWerks (Post 41082361)
a 1250W invertor should run a standard microwave (assuming no other loads).....


You must have one hell of a coffee maker....

motherfucker's name is Java, I expect he takes coffee seriously.

Java 06-16-2017 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87manche (Post 41082641)
motherfucker's name is Java, I expect he takes coffee seriously.

:D you might think.

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Elwenil 06-16-2017 02:28 PM

So with the espresso thing in mind, can we expect a barbie or maybe rainbow striped wrap in the future? :flipoff2:

Java 06-16-2017 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elwenil (Post 41083185)
So with the espresso thing in mind, can we expect a barbie or maybe rainbow striped wrap in the future? :flipoff2:

Haha good coffee is a must.... No barbie theme :flipoff2:

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v6toy4x 06-16-2017 03:12 PM

What brand inverter and esspresso machine? I dont trust a lot of output or consumption ratings especially on knock off brands (no offense), kind of like RV weights, dry vs. wet, some manufacturers list weight for standard configuration and dont add options weight in, slightly tweaked.

Is the coffee maker (esspresso) just not working
did it start and then stop
Is it tripping breakers
inverter overheat
no low voltage input alarm I would assume or you would have said so,
did you test bat voltage when you tried it?

What is your total amp hour bank?
55amps charging is good for 200 amp hourish bank to be able to recover between draw downs.

I run 2000 watt 100amp charging 480amp hour bank 880 watts solar with a 50amp MPPT controller and still dont let anyone run micro, or hair dryers. I tossed the elec coffee pot a while ago. I do want to get to where I can run AC compressor based refrigeration. a second stand alone 200 amp alternator is next.

Java 06-16-2017 03:36 PM

Details:

Nespresso c91 (label on bottom says 1260w, verified with kill a watt)
Tripp Lite 1250 w inverter charger
500ah AGM bank
Dual alternators, 240 {iirc} output

Inveter Overload cutout. It ran through machine for a few seconds.

Batteries were fresh off charger, 13.6 ish

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v6toy4x 06-16-2017 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 41084033)
Details:

Nespresso c91 (label on bottom says 1260w, verified with kill a watt)
Tripp Lite 1250 w inverter charger
500ah AGM bank
Dual alternators, 240 {iirc} output

Inveter Overload cutout. It ran through machine for a few seconds.

Batteries were fresh off charger, 13.6 ish

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Well kill a watt is accurate, Tripp Lite been around forever, bank plenty big, 13.6 is plenty of charge. I am of no help!

ben2go 06-16-2017 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 41068745)
OK I dug into the inverter specs..... It should run it. The coffee machine takes 1260W, thats only 10W over the continuous rating, and its claimed to be able to do 150% for up to 60mins.

Snips from the inverter specs:





So I did run 1/0 cables (manual says 4ga, eek), so I should not be getting voltage drop to the inverter. I am wondering if this is just a bad unit? I did get it used..... Whats the easiest way to test inverter output? Thoughts?

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaksWerks (Post 41082361)
a 1250W invertor should run a standard microwave (assuming no other loads).....


You must have one hell of a coffee maker....

In theory, yes.

In practice, it seems not.

:rolleyes:

Java 06-18-2017 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v6toy4x (Post 41085793)
Well kill a watt is accurate, Tripp Lite been around forever, bank plenty big, 13.6 is plenty of charge. I am of no help!

Yeah I don't get it either.... It does pulse the power, which might just be really hard on the Inveter. It goes full power 5w full power 5 w pulses every couple seconds.

I'm back home and have time to mess with it now.

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ky scrambled 06-18-2017 01:16 PM

problem solved!

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1pT9AoE4iL.jpg

Java 06-18-2017 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ky scrambled (Post 41103345)

Fawk that! Decaf too?! :flipoff2:

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ky scrambled 06-18-2017 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 41103353)
Fawk that! Decaf too?! :flipoff2:

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Fine, throw a few Redbulls in the fridge.

Java 06-18-2017 01:40 PM

Freaking weird. Sooo it worked. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...06db8cbf33.jpg

Inveter made terrible noises, but it worked. Voltage dropped to around 110 ish when it ran, but only pulled 576 watts?? (could be something with a non pure sign wave?)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f7f1a76d02.jpg

Took it back in the house, pulled 1256 watts at 120v..... Weird.


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Java 06-21-2017 09:47 AM

Great time at the NWOR, we were comfortable, but had one of the most "not off road" trucks there. Either way it was nice. Hung out with lots of friends, enjoyed watching the obstacle course, and did lots of walking around looking at rigs I recognized!


https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4268/3...59ced60f_b.jpg

Now I thought I had a leaking window..... Well its not the window...... Looks like our time on rough roads has taken its toll on the roof seams. They are splitting all the way around. Tri Van used an elastomeric of some sort to seal the overlap between the roof sheet metal and the corner extrusions. Its brushed on. Where is passes over the lip of the sheet metal it looks like it was the thinnest point and its just splitting there. Ugh!

This is the worst of split, but actually not leaking as the butyl that is between the pieces is good and thick here.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4215/3...186490f2_b.jpg

SOOOOO I get to re seal it all the way around, fun.... I hit the spots that were leaking (place you can see form the interior anyway...) with a bit of sikaflex since it was supposed to rain again. I wiped it with MEK and a wire brush, seemed to stick well.




But I need some input. Is a sealant with a layer of paint on it. Its loose at the edge in places (i will peel those) but is there any goos reason not to just spread a new layer over the top, going over both edges of the old stuff, after a wipe down with acetone/mek to clean it up?

Also, I have a can of brush able Geocel Pro Flex, coming, and have a case of Skiaflex 1a, thoughts as to product to use?? Sika will be a ***** to trowel out, and may not stick to bare alum as well as the geocel, but its grey. The Geocell may go on thinner (a good thing to keep water from pooling on the roof, but also need enough to get a good build up) This stuff supposedly stick to bare alum, and will stick in the wet (hotter chemical?) so maybe it will bond better to the original elastomer and paint?

Option 3 I am trying to avoid is going around the entire thing with a cup grinder and taking the old crap off..... That would take days.....

MaksWerks 06-21-2017 09:52 AM

What is the stuff they use on RV roofs? That reflects heat, and is a rubberized covering?

MT4Runner 06-21-2017 10:18 AM

After chasing a leak forever...I'm about to the point of going around with a cup grinder and starting over.

The places I have that haven't leaked, I bedded some heavy nylon window screen in the new sealant and it kept the joint from flexing open and cracking --there's a lot of movement and vibration going down the road, and even more offroad.

Java 06-21-2017 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaksWerks (Post 41132785)
What is the stuff they use on RV roofs? That reflects heat, and is a rubberized covering?

I dont remember what that stuff is called. IIRC It doesn't bond well to metal though.


Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 41133097)
After chasing a leak forever...I'm about to the point of going around with a cup grinder and starting over.

The places I have that haven't leaked, I bedded some heavy nylon window screen in the new sealant and it kept the joint from flexing open and cracking --there's a lot of movement and vibration going down the road, and even more offroad.

Yeah Geocell makes a "fibered" one. Might be a good solution. The sikaflex is good for +- 25% movement (IIRC)


I reallllllly dont want to have to grind the shit all off. That would be major suck. It doesn't come off easy.

MarkObtinaro 06-22-2017 01:46 AM

In the silver trailer world the be all to end all leaks is Eternabond Tape.

Once it goes down, without quite a bit of heat, it doesn't come back up.

I think in order to get the joint to seal properly you are going to have to clean off all of the old stuff in order for the new stuff to adhere.

https://www.amazon.com/eternabond/s?...k%3Aeternabond

D Nelly 06-22-2017 04:30 AM

Aluminum to rubber isn't the easiest thing to seal up with a caulking gun, it really needs to be flashed in properly to last

https://www.carlislesyntec.com/view....contentID=1307 is what you'd want over the sika. You'll need to find out if it's an epdm or tpo roof, and follow the directions pretty well. Can't really over prep with this stuff, but you absolutely can not do enough. I wouldn't try to go over the old, much better to get it clean clean

It pours out very thin for a sealer, like thin enough to trowel in with a junk paint brush

Another option would be a one part alsan flashing. It's not as easy to work with but still far from technical, just very expensive

Java 06-22-2017 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarkObtinaro (Post 41140969)
In the silver trailer world the be all to end all leaks is Eternabond Tape.

Once it goes down, without quite a bit of heat, it doesn't come back up.

I think in order to get the joint to seal properly you are going to have to clean off all of the old stuff in order for the new stuff to adhere.

https://www.amazon.com/eternabond/s?...k%3Aeternabond

Used eternabond on my old rv, it sticks.... But does come loose with time in places. I'm going to try a goop first.

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Java 06-22-2017 06:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D Nelly (Post 41141201)
Aluminum to rubber isn't the easiest thing to seal up with a caulking gun, it really needs to be flashed in properly to last

https://www.carlislesyntec.com/view....contentID=1307 is what you'd want over the sika. You'll need to find out if it's an epdm or tpo roof, and follow the directions pretty well. Can't really over prep with this stuff, but you absolutely can not do enough. I wouldn't try to go over the old, much better to get it clean clean

It pours out very thin for a sealer, like thin enough to trowel in with a junk paint brush

Another option would be a one part alsan flashing. It's not as easy to work with but still far from technical, just very expensive

Thanks I'll read about that stuff. It's an aluminum roof, no rubber anywhere.

I spent a couple Hours with a grinder and a wire cup, I ground the seam down along the sheet edge in the roof and around suspect rivets. I'll run a big bead of skia 1a on it tonight.

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Java 06-22-2017 02:05 PM

The roof issue.....

Across the front. Obviously failed.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4261/3...854749f6_b.jpg

Peeled off easily. Luckily there is a big layer of buytyl there, so its not leaking there.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4289/3...f08583f0_b.jpg

But the sides don't have much butyl, and are leaking. Hard to see but you can see the cracks in the middle (i fixed the worst ones without taking pics)
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4210/3...3c398170_b.jpg

So I took a knotted wire wheel to that area down the middle allllll the way around. That sucked. But it left me with a clean strip that hopefully the Sika will bond nicely too. I got the bare aluminum primer to use as well.

D Nelly 06-22-2017 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 41142009)
Thanks I'll read about that stuff. It's an aluminum roof, no rubber anywhere.

Missed that part, clean and sika is all I'd do then

Java 06-22-2017 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D Nelly (Post 41146777)
Missed that part, clean and sika is all I'd do then

I didn't get to bare metal, just ground the top of the urethane thats one there so its fresh and rough. I hope it will bond well to that.

MoonDog 06-22-2017 04:51 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Re19I08pvAQ

How about this guys process? I'm in the same position with an older camper with an aluminum roof. I thought about using a wire wheel to clean the joints but I'm worried I might tear through the aluminum. I'm almost ready to just slap that aluminum backed asphalt tape over everything and mash it down with a heat gun

Of everything I've researched for any given product or method, there are 6 people saying they know for a fact theirs is the correct way to do things, and half a dozen saying it doesn't work.

Java 06-22-2017 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MoonDog (Post 41148081)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Re19I08pvAQ

How about this guys process? I'm in the same position with an older camper with an aluminum roof. I thought about using a wire wheel to clean the joints but I'm worried I might tear through the aluminum. I'm almost ready to just slap that aluminum backed asphalt tape over everything and mash it down with a heat gun

Of everything I've researched for any given product or method, there are 6 people saying they know for a fact theirs is the correct way to do things, and half a dozen saying it doesn't work.

Basically what I have going, I ground the center out of the out stuff, and peeled any loose areas.

I've got a can of that proflex too they sell it in quarts....

I'm going to go at it with Sikaflex now, the metal prep primer is on and drying as I type... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...53651ab6fd.jpg

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MoonDog 06-22-2017 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 41148305)
Basically what I have going, I ground the center out of the out stuff, and peeled any loose areas.

I've got a can of that proflex too they sell it in quarts....

I'm going to go at it with Sikaflex now, the metal prep primer is on and drying as I type... [/IMG]

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

So the metal primer you just sprayed down over where you wire brushed the old stuff off, but I'm guessing you didn't get it completely down to clean bare metal, is the primer going onto what is left of the old sealant stuff of any concern?

I'm very curious to hear how it works for you, and this is a pretty amazing build you have going on.

Java 06-22-2017 06:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MoonDog (Post 41148609)
So the metal primer you just sprayed down over where you wire brushed the old stuff off, but I'm guessing you didn't get it completely down to clean bare metal, is the primer going onto what is left of the old sealant stuff of any concern?

I'm very curious to hear how it works for you, and this is a pretty amazing build you have going on.

Correct, it's down to bare metal in places, and where it peeled.

Not too worried about it, it seems more like a cleaner/etch/oxidization remover more than anything. It's mostly methanol. It's also used for plastics. I'm hopeful that the urethane will bind to urethane well, especially roughed up by the wire wheel. I red scotch brited the peeled areas also.

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87manche 06-22-2017 10:06 PM

the obvious solution.

https://cdn.neweasy.com/pimg/4C774EE...D5C75A93D7.jpg

stops leaks instantly.

Java 06-22-2017 10:17 PM

Not pretty, but hopefully sealed https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7127b254ca.jpg

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Java 06-23-2017 11:28 AM

Center ground down. Scrub brush and acetone came next. Then Sika 260 primer
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4256/3...fdba58c1_b.jpg

Front edge got a red scotch brite, acetone. Then the primer.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4278/3...bc1557f6_b.jpg

Not pretty, but should be water tight.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4285/3...34f3bb01_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4241/3...c422b7b2_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4205/3...319c3680_b.jpg

eight tubes :D
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4238/3...bc83e89e_b.jpg

350TacoZilla 06-24-2017 12:12 AM

I might have missed it but any reason to not just bedliner the entire roof?

ben2go 06-24-2017 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 41163025)
I might have missed it but any reason to not just bedliner the entire roof?

Heat. Bedliner is dark in color and would cause the box to become and oven. Even a big roof AC unit would have a hard time cooling it down.

Java 06-24-2017 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 41163025)
I might have missed it but any reason to not just bedliner the entire roof?

Cost.... I may do it eventually.

You can get it in white these days, no need to black

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ben2go 06-24-2017 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 41164833)
Cost.... I may do it eventually.

You can get it in white these days, no need to black

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Also, wouldn't bedliner texture hold water and eventually cause problems? A friend of mine had his start peeling after a few years. Water always sat in the spots where it started peeling.

350TacoZilla 06-24-2017 07:38 PM

I have sprayed a few beds myself and there are some liners out now that are not rough texture also. Along with the white like Java said, I was just wondering if you were against it for any reason but cost I can understand lol.

Java 06-25-2017 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 41168681)
Also, wouldn't bedliner texture hold water and eventually cause problems? A friend of mine had his start peeling after a few years. Water always sat in the spots where it started peeling.

Might hold water, the roof is not very flat, it has a little arch to it, but water does sit in a few spots

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 41169321)
I have sprayed a few beds myself and there are some liners out now that are not rough texture also. Along with the white like Java said, I was just wondering if you were against it for any reason but cost I can understand lol.

I did my whole utility trailer, defiantly easy to do less texture.

I spoke with the line x guy a long time ago about doing my old rv, he said they had done a few, but it was super $.

I think raptor would work really well, but it would be an absolute bitch to get it clean and peeped well enough I think.

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Java 06-26-2017 10:56 PM

75 lbs of misery. My God, double hanger doughnuts?? Really?

New stuff isn't on yet. I'm beat and gravel driveway sucks.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...524d55df49.jpg

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350TacoZilla 06-27-2017 04:15 AM

Nice! that and a economy tune should pick up decent mpg as well as reduce problems down the rd.

Java 06-27-2017 07:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 41188601)
Nice! that and a economy tune should pick up decent mpg as well as reduce problems down the rd.

Hopefully! I got a stock and +70 tune. We will see :D

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Java 06-27-2017 09:26 PM

And in today's installment. Fawk you I'm not buying a new sensor to zip tie to the frame rail!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7bdbe2d39a.jpg

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Java 06-29-2017 09:30 AM

Huge thanks to Ryan at Bahn Camper Works, http://www.bahncamperworks.com, he sold me his last shower unit, and it seemingly was the last one in stock in the US. Thanks again!

Not the ideal location above the exhaust, but the only place it wanted to fit.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4203/3...c0ab8de4_b.jpg

Super slick, well worth the $$
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4162/3...1519b83e_b.jpg

It shoots a long ass ways! And hot water comes out. Win.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4253/3...20b418f2_b.jpg

Internal connections.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4173/3...074015d9_b.jpg

Nifty little tuner. Sadly the CEL came on, #6 glow plug circuit failure....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4184/3...8be47546_b.jpg

Made a window infill panel.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4256/3...e9e30785_b.jpg

Our portable AC unit can clip into it! :D

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4223/3...1ed9f503_b.jpg

GLTHFJ60 06-29-2017 12:18 PM

Which portable AC unit are you using? I assume 120v power?

If you had problems running your coffee pot I would expect you to have problems with your AC unit, but maybe that's not the case?

Java 06-29-2017 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLTHFJ60 (Post 41209129)
Which portable AC unit are you using? I assume 120v power?

If you had problems running your coffee pot I would expect you to have problems with your AC unit, but maybe that's not the case?

Yeah it wont get run off the inverter, although it might run it (around 1k watts iirc). It will get used of the genny or if we have hook ups. Heading to Idaho and its supposed to be really hot.... Its a smaller roll around 120V unit.

I did make another cup of coffee yesterday though, it worked. .3% of battery bank to make a cup :eek:

Java 07-01-2017 05:17 PM

Holy hell, reset the mileage computer after I put the tuner in. Before it was 9.3 avg, Seattle to Spokane with a little in town stuff it's reading 15.5 now! I has cruise set at 68 (2250 rpms) the whole time https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...08f5c29aa8.jpg

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SSSRodeo 07-01-2017 05:54 PM

That's a keeper for that size truck.

Java 07-01-2017 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSSRodeo (Post 41231097)
That's a keeper for that size truck.

Yeah I'm stoked. Even if it's goes back to 10 11or so I'll be happy. It's a+70 tune. We have about a thousand miles to do on this trip and I'll track it

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bigun 07-02-2017 08:27 AM

Years ago in trailer life a guy wrote in telling about how on a trip through CO. h had to shut down the A/C on his rig because it was overheating going over the mountains. After they stopped to let it cool down he was coming out of the coffee shop when it hit him a window A/C unit could be sat on his cross bed tool box facing through sliding glass in the back, and he already had a generator in the bed! Well he put it all together and said the neat thing was, they could go in and come back out and the truck was already cold because the A/C didn't have to be shut off, plus he got better fuel mileage!

bdkw1 07-02-2017 08:42 AM

Those mileage meters are notoriously inaccurate. The one on My SD has read 20.5 the entire time I have owned it. Even towing 21k.........

Java 07-02-2017 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdkw1 (Post 41234449)
Those mileage meters are notoriously inaccurate. The one on My SD has read 20.5 the entire time I have owned it. Even towing 21k.........

Oh completely, just comparing the old reading vs new. I'll calculate when I get gas today. I lovingly call. It the lie o meter

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Java 07-02-2017 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigun (Post 41234377)
Years ago in trailer life a guy wrote in telling about how on a trip through CO. h had to shut down the A/C on his rig because it was overheating going over the mountains. After they stopped to let it cool down he was coming out of the coffee shop when it hit him a window A/C unit could be sat on his cross bed tool box facing through sliding glass in the back, and he already had a generator in the bed! Well he put it all together and said the neat thing was, they could go in and come back out and the truck was already cold because the A/C didn't have to be shut off, plus he got better fuel mileage!

That's hilarious, works good though I bet

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friskydingo 07-02-2017 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdkw1 (Post 41234449)
Those mileage meters are notoriously inaccurate. The one on My SD has read 20.5 the entire time I have owned it. Even towing 21k.........

See now if you were a Cummins owner you'd be proudly telling everyone that that's what it got lol

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Java 07-02-2017 10:20 AM

Hand Calc 10.2 ish

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DT75FLH 07-02-2017 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 41235017)
Hand Calc 10.2 ish

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Before tuner and deletes you were around 9?....

Everything I have read about deletes show maybe 1 mpg improvement. ..(of course taking out cummins guys who all get 5mpg plus when deleted :shaking:)

DT75FLH 07-02-2017 10:50 AM

Now I know the engine will run a lot better and a lot cleaner since you don't have the EGR going through but actual real world miles per gallon improvements I have seen have been one or two

Java 07-02-2017 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DT75FLH (Post 41235249)
Now I know the engine will run a lot better and a lot cleaner since you don't have the EGR going through but actual real world miles per gallon improvements I have seen have been one or two

Yeah it was 9.3 before I reset it. I'm fine with any improvement honestly

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DT75FLH 07-02-2017 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 41235361)
Yeah it was 9.3 before I reset it. I'm fine with any improvement honestly

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I agree that any improvement is welcome....plus the benefits to the engine....

My truck is still under warranty...and a guy I know just hit 101k on his ram and some some emissions items failed ...dodge wants 9k in repairs :laughing:

He is working with customer care right now well see what happens...if that happens to me the truck is getting full deleted first

bdkw1 07-02-2017 02:10 PM

Do you have an EGT gauge? If so, did it drop a noticeable amount? I would think with all that crap gone it would flow a little better.

Java 07-02-2017 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdkw1 (Post 41236953)
Do you have an EGT gauge? If so, did it drop a noticeable amount? I would think with all that crap gone it would flow a little better.

I didn't have one before sadly. But it hits 1200-1300 ish if I really get on it. I can't imagine it was lower before.

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Java 07-02-2017 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DT75FLH (Post 41235617)
I agree that any improvement is welcome....plus the benefits to the engine....

My truck is still under warranty...and a guy I know just hit 101k on his ram and some some emissions items failed ...dodge wants 9k in repairs :laughing:

He is working with customer care right now well see what happens...if that happens to me the truck is getting full deleted first

If it's under warranty they should fix it all! But who knows. The motor on this one got replaced around 100k

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DT75FLH 07-02-2017 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 41237305)
If it's under warranty they should fix it all! But who knows. The motor on this one got replaced around 100k

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

He was 1k miles over warranty....rams have a egr cleaning your supposed to do at 67k miles....he had his turbo replaced at 60k. So did not get the service done..

They ended up replacing all the dpf and cat and sensor but he had to pay for another turbo...so it cost him 4200.00



Sorry to hijack.:laughing:

BTW great job on the coversion so far

Java 07-05-2017 07:39 PM

Night five so far so good! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1e97f0b1ea.jpg

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ben2go 07-05-2017 08:44 PM

I ass-u-me the roof repair is holding, or we would have learned a lot about how swimming in an RV compares to an actual swimming pool. :laughing:

Java 07-05-2017 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 41265369)
I ass-u-me the roof repair is holding, or we would have learned a lot about how swimming in an RV compares to an actual swimming pool. :laughing:

No rain :D but I'm hopeful

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ben2go 07-05-2017 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 41265385)
No rain :D but I'm hopeful

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No trial by fire, er water, yet.

Java 07-05-2017 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 41265409)
No trial by fire, er water, yet.

Soon I'm sure. It's been freaking hot.

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ennored 07-17-2017 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 41234505)
Oh completely, just comparing the old reading vs new. I'll calculate when I get gas today. I lovingly call. It the lie o meter

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Tuners can change the data sent to the trip computer too. Make folks think they are getting better mileage with their expensive tuner...

Java 07-17-2017 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ennored (Post 41372753)
Tuners can change the data sent to the trip computer too. Make folks think they are getting better mileage with their expensive tuner...

Yeah I am 99% sure it is doing it and I wish it wouldn't!! My distance to empty is completely useless now, on E is still have 200 miles to go! :mad3: Stupid, I know most people wont actually run the number when they fill up, but come on. Its made a "feature" the DTE useless.

Java 07-21-2017 11:39 AM

We did a trip up to explore BC, we went through Banff, Jasper and Wellsgrey parks. Great trip and the first long one in the new truck. Amazing trip, lots of fun hikes and great scenery. Truck eats up the miles! Averaged about 10.3 ish MPG not going easy one it. Only found one long grade that made it get pretty hot, temp sat right around 200 most of the time, oil temp was never more than 10 degrees more than water temp.

Full write up here: https://www.nwadventuretruck.com/fir...g-trip-report/

A few pics from the trip
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4211/...afac754a_b.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4210/...02935bfa_b.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4239/...106c5dce_b.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4233/...9a000bc5_b.jpg

Action Fab 07-21-2017 11:43 AM

Just spectacular!

christyle 07-21-2017 11:44 AM

^What his avatar says^

Java 07-21-2017 12:01 PM

Thanks guys, It was pretty amazing!
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4214/...d7e3a55c_b.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4289/...1db548b3_b.jpg

MaksWerks 07-25-2017 08:47 AM

Looks amazing man!

Java 07-25-2017 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaksWerks (Post 41440305)
Looks amazing man!

Thanks!

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parkers30 07-25-2017 09:39 AM

Bad ass trip, and inspiring!

Good work.

Java 07-25-2017 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by parkers30 (Post 41440657)
Bad ass trip, and inspiring!

Good work.

Thanks! It was a great trip.

Haven't touched the truck since. I need to get on that. Need to finish up the interior (get the back door better insulated/skinned minimum before winter), #6 glow plug is throwing codes, I think that's the one that was leaking oil around the harness, so replace the harness and plug, and I need to run new fuel line to the heater, stuff I used was too big I guess :(

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Java 08-22-2017 10:46 AM

So one of the guys over at Grassroots Motorsports forum just so happens to work for Webasto. He saw my incorrect fuel line and sent me a roll of the correct stuff! Apparently they actually use the fuel line ID as part of the fueling system metering. Too large of an ID (like my rubber) will actually over fuel the heater. He said it would likely work fine for a long while, but eventually it will kill the fire box. The pulse pump needs the restriction I guess.

Correct stuff.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4343/...b5e3457d_b.jpg

So I got around to installing it between the fuel pump and heater last night anyway. Uhhh yeah no good pictures under there, but its clear tubing in place of the rubber.

Still rubber to the tank, not exactly sure how I will get around that one yet, but its only about 24"

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4405/...303cf2ec_b.jpg

DE Jeeper 08-22-2017 11:19 AM

I put a d2 espar heater in my grooming van and it came with a draw straw i cut it down so it would fit in the promaster tank. It would easy work in that tank. U just drill a hole and the fittings seal it up. Also its real important that the fuel pump is angled up per their instructions, im not sure why but they stress the correct angle in the instructions several times.

Java 08-22-2017 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DE Jeeper (Post 41701825)
I put a d2 espar heater in my grooming van and it came with a draw straw i cut it down so it would fit in the promaster tank. It would easy work in that tank. U just drill a hole and the fittings seal it up. Also its real important that the fuel pump is angled up per their instructions, im not sure why but they stress the correct angle in the instructions several times.

Yeah that's an option, I'm trying to stick with the tank pickup for now. I already swapped it to a smaller size. But having the quick disconnect there is handy for filling the tank.

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Pt_Ranger_V8 08-25-2017 09:11 AM

A little nitpicky, here, but are you sure your bungie strap is going to be strong enough? Or is that a temp install until you can figure out a little more permanent/stronger holddown clamp?

Java 08-25-2017 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pt_Ranger_V8 (Post 41734945)
A little nitpicky, here, but are you sure your bungie strap is going to be strong enough? Or is that a temp install until you can figure out a little more permanent/stronger holddown clamp?

Nitpick away! That's why I post, more eyes and experience the better.

That was permanent. Likely will need to be replaced periodically. Its only 3 gallons, so not a ton of weight. Also its really just there to keep the tank from bouncing around. If it breaks the tail light panel will hold it in place if needed.

Pt_Ranger_V8 08-26-2017 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 41735017)
Nitpick away! That's why I post, more eyes and experience the better.

That was permanent. Likely will need to be replaced periodically. Its only 3 gallons, so not a ton of weight. Also its really just there to keep the tank from bouncing around. If it breaks the tail light panel will hold it in place if needed.

Ok. I couldn't remember (and I didn't want to look) where it was placed.

If it's only a 3 gallon tank, it's probably going to be fine. Realistically, I don't foresee anything happening to that, unless you get rear-ended or flopped on your side. In either case, a little bit of gas is going to be your least concern :laughing: :flipoff2:

SSSRodeo 08-26-2017 02:01 PM

Put that 3 gallons of gas in a fire pit then toss a match to it and see what only 3 gallons of fire does.

I'd sure find a better way to strap it down at the very least.

One of my Co workers sisters had a one gallon gas can explode in her hand while camping a few years back.

She was left with 10% of her body not burnt. She's not pretty anymore.

Gasoline scares me.

That's why I quit carrying fuel in gas cans on the back of my truck. I added another truck fuel tank under the body and between the frame rails for when I need more range.
Automobile and truck manufacturers have changed where they mount their fuel tanks a lot on the same models. Just grab one of the other year model tanks and have c tanks.

I carry water and food storage cans in the carriers that I use to carry fuel can in on the swing out tire carrier..

One rear ender will convince you to rethink where your fuel is stored.

my 2 cents on the subject.

Java 08-26-2017 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSSRodeo (Post 41750385)
Put that 3 gallons of gas in a fire pit then toss a match to it and see what only 3 gallons of fire does.

I'd sure find a better way to strap it down at the very least.

One of my Co workers sisters had a one gallon gas can explode in her hand while camping a few years back.

She was left with 10% of her body not burnt. She's not pretty anymore.

Gasoline scares me.

That's why I quit carrying fuel in gas cans on the back of my truck. I added another truck fuel tank under the body and between the frame rails for when I need more range.
Automobile and truck manufacturers have changed where they mount their fuel tanks a lot on the same models. Just grab one of the other year model tanks and have c tanks.

I carry water and food storage cans in the carriers that I use to carry fuel can in on the swing out tire carrier..

One rear ender will convince you to rethink where your fuel is stored.

my 2 cents on the subject.

It's kerosene, so it's a bit less volitle than gas. But I'd still rather not throw it on a fire.... The strap is just to keep the tank from bouncing really. It's held in location by the tail light panel and a piece of flat stock st the front

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SSSRodeo 08-27-2017 02:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 41750425)
It's kerosene, so it's a bit less volitle than gas. But I'd still rather not throw it on a fire.... The strap is just to keep the tank from bouncing really. It's held in location by the tail light panel and a piece of flat stock st the front

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Oh, that's a lot safer. Kerosene has a much lower flash point than gasoline.

If gasoline was invented today I seriously doubt it would be approved for consumers use because of its volatile nature. Probably be on the bomb ordinance ban list
But yet a 10 year old can buy gallons of the stuff without so much as a whimper from OSHA or anybody.

Gasoline is scary stuff. Just breathing the vapors can give you a high you won't believe.. Still wondering why "Huffers" haven't started snorting the stuff. It's so much easier to get than paint.

Java 08-27-2017 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSSRodeo (Post 41755025)
Oh, that's a lot safer. Kerosene has a much lower flash point than gasoline.

If gasoline was invented today I seriously doubt it would be approved for consumers use because of its volatile nature. Probably be on the bomb ordinance ban list
But yet a 10 year old can buy gallons of the stuff without so much as a whimper from OSHA or anybody.

Gasoline is scary stuff. Just breathing the vapors can give you a high you won't believe.. Still wondering why "Huffers" haven't started snorting the stuff. It's so much easier to get than paint.

Yeah gas can be some scary stuff. My sister in law was badly burned too by a nit so smart friend trying to dump it on a fire....

I'm very aware of how explosive it can be.

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Java 09-01-2017 10:26 AM

OK a couple of tiny updates.

Added a cell booster antenna. Will see how that works.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4332/...02523b32_b.jpg

Added a handle to the bed, much easier to lift!
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4399/...f65e5bd3_b.jpg

And worked on a backup camera. Huge fail so far.... Its wifi based and I had an old phone I was going to use for the screen. The idea os good, but the transmitter that claims 150m, is more like two. Too much metal I guess, as soon as I walk around the side of the truck it just drops.

Parts
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4380/...0908ae60_b.jpg

Stuck it all in a tupperware on the back of this panel, tapped the license plate light for power.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4332/...36a9f083_b.jpg

It works if you stand behind the truck..... not so helpful. I may fuck with it later, or just get something different.

crazybluerider 09-01-2017 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 41806505)
OK a couple of tiny updates.

Added a cell booster antenna. Will see how that works.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4332/...02523b32_b.jpg

Added a handle to the bed, much easier to lift!
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4399/...f65e5bd3_b.jpg

And worked on a backup camera. Huge fail so far.... Its wifi based and I had an old phone I was going to use for the screen. The idea os good, but the transmitter that claims 150m, is more like two. Too much metal I guess, as soon as I walk around the side of the truck it just drops.

Parts
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4380/...0908ae60_b.jpg

Stuck it all in a tupperware on the back of this panel, tapped the license plate light for power.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4332/...36a9f083_b.jpg

It works if you stand behind the truck..... not so helpful. I may fuck with it later, or just get something different.

I work at a medium duty truck dealership. After installing multiple different customer supplied wireless cams, we have completely given up trying to find a wireless backup camera that works with a van body.

I've been following this build for sometime now. I really dig this thing.

christyle 09-01-2017 10:39 AM

I got a super cheap one off amazon a few years ago for my duramax, but it's hard wired. My Edge monitor switches on when it gets signal, which is tied into the reverse lights. Wired will be a lot more to run, but for how cheap mine was, if you have anything with a video input (tuner/monitor, double din stereo, etc) it would work. The wifi method would be much slicker though if you could make it work. Maybe extend the lead going to the transmitter?

Java 09-01-2017 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazybluerider (Post 41806617)
I work at a medium duty truck dealership. After installing multiple different customer supplied wireless cams, we have completely given up trying to find a wireless backup camera that works with a van body.

I've been following this build for sometime now. I really dig this thing.



Yeah the issue is with digital the signal is either on or off,
at least with analog (most backup cams) is it just gets fuzzy.
I may do wired eventually, but need a monitor etc if I go that route.
T

Quote:

Originally Posted by christyle (Post 41806633)
I got a super cheap one off amazon a few years ago for my duramax, but it's hard wired. My Edge monitor switches on when it gets signal, which is tied into the reverse lights. Wired will be a lot more to run, but for how cheap mine was, if you have anything with a video input (tuner/monitor, double din stereo, etc) it would work. The wifi method would be much slicker though if you could make it work. Maybe extend the lead going to the transmitter?

Yeah I may try to move it, or extend the antenna, but even inside right above it I barely get any signal. Not enough for picture, I can just see the network there. No time to mess with it right now. I would need some sort of monitor for it.

This one was cheap, so even if it doesn't work I am not out much, and the camera is separate so I can still use that.

lunacy 09-01-2017 01:05 PM

You might just put the wifi sender in the cab of the truck and hard wire all the way to it, at least you could use the phone as a monitor still and if it doesn't work you'll end up running the wires anyway.

Java 09-01-2017 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lunacy (Post 41808257)
You might just put the wifi sender in the cab of the truck and hard wire all the way to it, at least you could use the phone as a monitor still and if it doesn't work you'll end up running the wires anyway.

Yep not a bad idea at all!

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Java 09-04-2017 03:49 PM

A couple questions for the diesel guys, my tuner has some "warnings" built into it.

At 30 PSI it goes yellow, 35 goes red. Is yellow an OK safe pressure for climbing passes etc longer terms.

Same for EGTs, 1200 ish goes yellow, 1400 goes red. AFAIK 1200 was all you wanted to run for short periods.



Just campground camping this weekend. This thing tows the boat like it's not even there. Love it!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...da1ced81e8.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...79f4fc96fc.jpg



https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...67284fef87.jpg

And it definately has a LSD of some sort, both rear tires dig holes!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...376e51f030.jpg

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MJDoppler 09-07-2017 02:41 PM

Where is your pyrometer mounted at in your exhaust? 1250* aluminum starts to melt, if your pyrometer is after the turbo in the down pipe you're probably reading 200*-300* lower than what your pistons are actually seeing. You can hit 1200 for short periods, but I wouldn't hold it there. At 1400* I'd be backing out of the skinny pedal quickly! should be safe at 35 psi of boost for short periods but also wouldn't keep it there long, if mine hits 30-35 psi and EGTS start climbing and holding I'll pedal it to get a lower gear and reduce both pressure and temps. My pyrometer is right at the hottest part of my driver side exhaust manifold to see temps closer to what my pistons are seeing, which allows me to back out od the pedal as things really start to get hot which saves both my pistons and my turbo. I'd much rather replace a turbo as opposed to a full engine rebuild!

Java 09-07-2017 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJDoppler (Post 41858937)
Where is your pyrometer mounted at in your exhaust? 1250* aluminum starts to melt, if your pyrometer is after the turbo in the down pipe you're probably reading 200*-300* lower than what your pistons are actually seeing. You can hit 1200 for short periods, but I wouldn't hold it there. At 1400* I'd be backing out of the skinny pedal quickly! should be safe at 35 psi of boost for short periods but also wouldn't keep it there long, if mine hits 30-35 psi and EGTS start climbing and holding I'll pedal it to get a lower gear and reduce both pressure and temps. My pyrometer is right at the hottest part of my driver side exhaust manifold to see temps closer to what my pistons are seeing, which allows me to back out od the pedal as things really start to get hot which saves both my pistons and my turbo. I'd much rather replace a turbo as opposed to a full engine rebuild!

Thanks! Appreciate the input.

I have no clue where it is, its the OE one that feeds the ECU.

yeah only hit 1400 for a couple seconds here or there, but its hard to stay under 1100 at times.

What do you feel is a "short period"?

I have been 35+psi for a minute or two maybe, but your right that is where EGT's climb quickly.

ben2go 09-07-2017 03:02 PM

Needs more fuel. :D

Java 09-07-2017 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 41859105)
Needs more fuel. :D

Hmmmm I may be new to the diesel thing, so is that meaning I am leaning out and running hotter EGTs due to lack of fuel? Sooo the obvious answer is more fuel then?

I thought it was more pushing the efficiency limits of the turbos and cramming more hot air in drove up EGTs.


/Flame suit on

ben2go 09-07-2017 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 41859121)
Hmmmm I may be new to the diesel thing, so is that meaning I am leaning out and running hotter EGTs due to lack of fuel? Sooo the obvious answer is more fuel then?

I thought it was more pushing the efficiency limits of the turbos and cramming more hot air in drove up EGTs.


/Flame suit on

I was kidding. Have a quick glance over this. It should help.
EGT - How Hot is Too Hot?

Java 09-07-2017 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 41859145)
I was kidding. Have a quick glance over this. It should help.
EGT - How Hot is Too Hot?

Thanks I wasn't crazy :laughing: reading now!

Java 09-07-2017 03:15 PM

Google also tells me there are a bunch of EGT sensors on the 6.4L, but most likely the tuner is reading EGT1 which is pre turbo in the up pipes.

GLTHFJ60 09-08-2017 08:36 AM

Can't you ask the tuner supplier which sensor they read from? I'm sure a quick call would suffice.

Java 09-08-2017 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLTHFJ60 (Post 41864617)
Can't you ask the tuner supplier which sensor they read from? I'm sure a quick call would suffice.

I will! Im pretty sure its that one, as that's what most of the others claim to read as well.

MJDoppler 09-08-2017 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 41859065)
Thanks! Appreciate the input.

I have no clue where it is, its the OE one that feeds the ECU.

yeah only hit 1400 for a couple seconds here or there, but its hard to stay under 1100 at times.

What do you feel is a "short period"?

I have been 35+psi for a minute or two maybe, but your right that is where EGT's climb quickly.

30 to 60 seconds top for me, I run an SCT tuner on my 6.0 with a towing tune from Matt at Gearhead. I run gauges to monitor fuel pressure, boost, EGT, plus a scan gauge II to monitor my FICM voltage, battery voltage, oil temp and water temps constantly. I can can through other chosen preset monitoring points with the scan gauge II with just the touch of a button also. I know the 6.4 were more computer integrated since they went to a full electronic injector starting with those engines. Don't get too reliant on the computer to protect your engine by allowing it to automatically de-rate the truck in order to "save" the engine.

Java 09-08-2017 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJDoppler (Post 41865625)
30 to 60 seconds top for me, I run an SCT tuner on my 6.0 with a towing tune from Matt at Gearhead. I run gauges to monitor fuel pressure, boost, EGT, plus a scan gauge II to monitor my FICM voltage, battery voltage, oil temp and water temps constantly. I can can through other chosen preset monitoring points with the scan gauge II with just the touch of a button also. I know the 6.4 were more computer integrated since they went to a full electronic injector starting with those engines. Don't get too reliant on the computer to protect your engine by allowing it to automatically de-rate the truck in order to "save" the engine.

Yeah I dont want to rely on a computer to save anything unless I just dont see it.

Im running a GearboxZ plus70 tune, The gauge monitors boost, EGTs, oil temp, coolant temp, and trans temp.

OK so stay out of the 1200 degree range. Got it. I will have to stay out of the skinny pedal a bit more.

Anything that's an easy fix for lower EGT's? Id like to keep my foot in it :D

Sounds like more air in and out is the key. Rich=higher EGT's

On the tune I am running I do get a little puff of soot under hard acell or from a start, but no more than a little puff.

MJDoppler 09-08-2017 02:11 PM

I barely push any black smoke, make sure your tune is designed for towing since you are running heavier than a normal truck. More HP/TQ is good but too much can have negative effects for your purpose. More air in and out is key but larger intercooler would help as well. The key here is you're not pushing a lot extra HP so you just need to get the EGT under control. If your shift points are off you'll run higher boost and EGT before your transmission downshifts.

Java 09-08-2017 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJDoppler (Post 41868081)
I barely push any black smoke, make sure your tune is designed for towing since you are running heavier than a normal truck. More HP/TQ is good but too much can have negative effects for your purpose. More air in and out is key but larger intercooler would help as well. The key here is you're not pushing a lot extra HP so you just need to get the EGT under control. If your shift points are off you'll run higher boost and EGT before your transmission downshifts.

I dont get any really, just a tiny puff, you wouldn't notice if you weren't looking for it.

The tune I have does not touch the trans, and is supposed to be a mild tune.

Im wondering if a CAI would help, I have heard rumors of it, The air filter thing gets to half way under normal circumstances.

MJDoppler 09-08-2017 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 41868137)
I dont get any really, just a tiny puff, you wouldn't notice if you weren't looking for it.

The tune I have does not touch the trans, and is supposed to be a mild tune.

Im wondering if a CAI would help, I have heard rumors of it, The air filter thing gets to half way under normal circumstances.

The factory Donaldson filters will flow enough air to support 600 Hp so you should be fine there, plus it filters really good. I am trying to find a harder intermediate tube (between the air box and the turbo) because my new turbo has actually sucked the factory flex tube shut when tuned up on my highest street tune. Give Matt at Gearhead a shout and see if he can write something for your specific tuner that may work better for you. He has a pretty specific build sheet you have to fill out with your submission so he has the full specs for your truck so get it as detailed for him as you can.

https://gearheadautomotiveperformanc...uning-Products

I'm only one of his customers and have no affiliation with him and receive nothing from him for referrals. I just know his tunes work really well! Good luck, I'm digging the build and your BC pics were amazing.

TireFryerSS 09-16-2017 07:54 AM

Pretty sure months ago when I posted about deleting your truck I talked about the importance of good custom tuning. Yet you run off and buy one of the worst "tuners" on the market.

Now here you are asking why the garbage tune on your truck runs hot. Because it wasnt meant to be in a truck with a giant box on it. It wasnt designed for anyone who tows. You cheaped out on something that can destroy your engine.

No, you dont need an aftermarket "cold" air intake. Because they dont perform any better than the factory filter and are usually worse.

Gearhead tunes are some of the best. Matt or Lars will explain to you the difference in tuning and why a good custom tune isnt cheap.

ky scrambled 09-16-2017 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TireFryerSS (Post 41935513)
Pretty sure months ago when I posted about deleting your truck I talked about the importance of good custom tuning. Yet you run off and buy one of the worst "tuners" on the market.

Now here you are asking why the garbage tune on your truck runs hot. Because it wasnt meant to be in a truck with a giant box on it. It wasnt designed for anyone who tows. You cheaped out on something that can destroy your engine.

No, you dont need an aftermarket "cold" air intake. Because they dont perform any better than the factory filter and are usually worse.

Gearhead tunes are some of the best. Matt or Lars will explain to you the difference in tuning and why a good custom tune isnt cheap.

You drive a semi dont you

Java 09-16-2017 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TireFryerSS (Post 41935513)
Pretty sure months ago when I posted about deleting your truck I talked about the importance of good custom tuning. Yet you run off and buy one of the worst "tuners" on the market.

Now here you are asking why the garbage tune on your truck runs hot. Because it wasnt meant to be in a truck with a giant box on it. It wasnt designed for anyone who tows. You cheaped out on something that can destroy your engine.

No, you dont need an aftermarket "cold" air intake. Because they dont perform any better than the factory filter and are usually worse.

Gearhead tunes are some of the best. Matt or Lars will explain to you the difference in tuning and why a good custom tune isnt cheap.

Well I never said it ran hot, I was simply asking about the limits I should be pushing as it's my first diesel rig.



Yea I did buy a cheap tuner, but it has good reviews, and I didn't come here complaining about it. Also I can always load someone else's tune with this tuner, it's just a glorified SD card reader.

I have no issues changing tunes if it's needed, I didn't have any other base line to compare to. Maybe I should run the stock tune next time I go up the pass and see how it compares EGT wise etc. I'm sure there are better, or a custom one even, but this was supposed to be a safe very mild delete tune and that's it.

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Java 09-25-2017 11:15 AM

A quick weekend in the woods.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4417/...dc171e0a_b.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4466/...b2ebce6c_b.jpg



"fixed" the broken and rattling running board. LWB problems....
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4346/...1d9fb938_b.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4424/...0c3fc9a6_b.jpg



Need to check tire pressures, but it felt much nicer this time, I think the rain and traffic filled in a lot of the holes. Washboard was no problem at 30-40mph, the big holes were still jarring if you didn't slow down in time. I rattled one of the lights loose, fixed that yesterday.

bigun 09-25-2017 02:54 PM

Getting to enjoy the fruits of your labor is the best!

Java 09-25-2017 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigun (Post 42012481)
Getting to enjoy the fruits of your labor is the best!

It sure is! :D

Java 09-27-2017 07:11 AM

One more quick project down. I needed better access to the propane tank. I had a 6" deck plate in the tool box, it was enough to turn the gas on and off, but not fill the tank, I had planned on a remote fill (and may still do that) but I couldn't even get the remote fill parts hooked up without dropping the tank.

Sooo in comes a bigger hole.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/...b5d6fd44_b.jpg

Round corners dont crack as easily.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4453/...e8388a8e_b.jpg

Annnnnd door.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4449/...e3537cec_b.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4480/...4492bb12_b.jpg

Much better access, I am going to ask my local fill guy if he can work with that rather than the remote fill....

Java 09-30-2017 04:52 PM

10.71 mpg on the last tank, that's with a pass going both directions. Not bad!

Going up the pass, 50-55mph, 30 psi and 1000 degree EGT's, the other side is shallower and I can run up at 60+ staying under 1000 degrees. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f712627988.jpg

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Java 10-03-2017 08:25 PM

OK guys I need some input. Trying to track down the reverse light issue, its dark enough I needed them last weekend.

What I know:
Lights work, Plugged them into the brake circuit and they come on,

Wiring in the ghetto looking Junction box I thought would be the issue looks good.

~.4V to reverse lights in reverse. Same at the trailer reverse light plug.

Fuses good, (Ill check again tomorrow), but they were good last time I looked. Swapped with a similar looking relay, no change.

ghetto block i thought must be the issue
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4496/...98715481_b.jpg

but neat and waterproof connectors inside....
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4445/...e48f9c29_b.jpg


One thing that was good I learned, the spare tire crank does not work with the large step bumper.... Good to know! Socket had been installed on crank to use with a ratchet.

DE Jeeper 10-04-2017 07:56 AM

U have to trace that wire back to where they tapped into the harness. Im betting they used a scotch lock.

Java 10-04-2017 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DE Jeeper (Post 42085593)
U have to trace that wire back to where they tapped into the harness. Im betting they used a scotch lock.

The wire coming into the top right of the box is the incoming harness.... It's not tapped in anywhere obvious. There is an OE connector right there, that I think is the factory trailer harness plug. Will have to do some Googling.

Only other splice has to be where the frame was stretched, and I can't see it which means it has to be buried behind the gas tank.....

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DE Jeeper 10-04-2017 09:01 AM

Maybe the reverse switch/sensor is bad? Had one go bad on my dodge? Continuity tester may be your friend on this one.

Java 10-04-2017 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DE Jeeper (Post 42086337)
Maybe the reverse switch/sensor is bad? Had one go bad on my dodge? Continuity tester may be your friend on this one.

That's what I am thinking, but no other signs of trans issues. Wouldn't that cause something else to be unhappy too?

DE Jeeper 10-04-2017 08:37 PM

Not on my trans. Its either just a magnet or ball detent switch. Has to make a connection across it when in reverse. Could just be corosion.

Java 10-04-2017 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DE Jeeper (Post 42093497)
Not on my trans. Its either just a magnet or ball detent switch. Has to make a connection across it when in reverse. Could just be corosion.

Well I fixed them. I feel stupid. I went through the whole harness, checked all the connections.

Decided the check the fuses again, there are three or four that all run the reverse lights in one way or another.

Found a blown fuse.... That's the third time I checked them. Ugh.

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Java 10-09-2017 09:01 AM

Finished up the backup light project.

Finally bought a riv nut tool, where have these been all my life?! No more trying to hold a box wrench on the back side for me!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4488/...9aacd79b_b.jpg

Cheap Amazon light bar. Tied to the trailer reverse light circuit. Just clears the license plate light, and the door latches.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4502/...6dbee1f2_b.jpg

More light!
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4447/...502b7e59_b.jpg

aczlan 10-09-2017 12:32 PM

Hope it can take being stepped on...

Aaron Z

Java 10-09-2017 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aczlan (Post 42128441)
Hope it can take being stepped on...

Aaron Z

Good thought.... It doesn't stick out much more than the latches really. I don't climb in there, step on the bumper and grab stuff.

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SSSRodeo 10-09-2017 02:53 PM

So just Rivnut a strip a of angle iron above the light. One piece on either side of the latch. That will keep you from accidentally stepping on top of light housing.

I love my Rivnut tool!

aczlan 10-09-2017 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSSRodeo (Post 42129657)
So just Rivnut a strip a of angle iron above the light. One piece on either side of the latch. That will keep you from accidentally stepping on top of light housing.

I love my Rivnut tool!

He already has rivetnuts there, all he needs to do it take the light off, set a piece of angle behind it (long enough to stick out past the light) and bolt it back in with the same bolts.
If not, I would put them in the underside of the lip and bolt a piece of flat stock in there.

Aaron Z

Java 10-09-2017 08:14 PM

I'm really not worried about it, the space when you open the Dorr is 12" deep, not exactly somewhere you can step into. It's not much space.

If a $20 light bar gets broken I'm not going to cry too much :flipoff2:

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Java 10-09-2017 08:31 PM

Ok guys, question and input needed.

I have a 3/16" steel plate floor, with 2x2 steel tube structure underneath.

Need to Insulate, is insulating between the tubes going to do much? I'm worried I will just have cold floor no matter what.

Hindsight and all that, I should have insulated below the flooring....

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DE Jeeper 10-10-2017 05:54 AM

I would do it. U will get a lot less thermal transfer and ridged insulation is not that expensive.

Java 10-10-2017 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DE Jeeper (Post 42134097)
I would do it. U will get a lot less thermal transfer and ridged insulation is not that expensive.

Sounds good. I was planning to do it then was having second thoughts. It's going to be a bitch.

I'll use rigid with sheet metal under it to protect it. There is a lot of shit in the way.

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DE Jeeper 10-10-2017 09:53 AM

I hear your pain. I did it from underneath on the pete sleeper after it was installed. The foam was easy, the stainless sheating was a huge pita but worth it.

Java 10-22-2017 12:39 PM

A storm was headed through Friday night which was supposed to bring snow. So what did we do? Pack up and go looking for it!

Off the highway and headed up for more altitude
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4480/...565b4b21_b.jpg

Found the snow line, so we parked and called it a spot for the night. Whipped up some tasty dinner and had a nice little fire. A couple went by just as we were headed inside for dinner, just after dark. Driving a 4x4 early 80's Toyota Chinook camper, say hi if your on here! Looked awesome

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4480/...f753586e_b.jpg

Woke up to 3" of new stuff! So pretty.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4487/...7c16a082_b.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4500/...dd8ae04c_b.jpg

Kids and dog had a good time.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4455/...931964c7_b.jpg

No drama heading down in the morning, we were a little worried as its pretty steep. I had grabbed some chains on the way home from work, but first gear idled us down the hill safely.

Now the interesting parts..... 4x4 doesn't work.... At least the hubs wont lock in with vacuum as they are supposed to. So I started tracing vac lines. So far they all look good, but I did find a dead seal.... I cant for the life of me figure out what this part is called.

Its this seal at the end of the axle tube. I dont think it has anything to do with the vacuum system as that's all in the hub. Looks like a bitch to get everything out to change it...... I skimmed thru the 60 tech article and didnt see it.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4486/...3a3bd8a0_b.jpg

ky scrambled 10-22-2017 12:48 PM

Put a pair of pliers/vicegrips in the door panel. Yer gonna need em!

Java 10-22-2017 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ky scrambled (Post 42229865)
Put a pair of pliers/vicegrips in the door panel. Yer gonna need em!

For engaging the hubs? They work smooth at the moment! A little hard to turn but nothing fingers can't handle.

Any idea on the seal? Seems like it's just a dust seal really.

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ky scrambled 10-22-2017 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 42229873)
For engaging the hubs? They work smooth at the moment! A little hard to turn but nothing fingers can't handle.

Any idea on the seal? Seems like it's just a dust seal really.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Lucky! Mine wouldn't turn by hand.

You seem more intelligent than me so take it for whats its worth but I took mine apart twice and couldn't find anything wrong :laughing:

Java 10-22-2017 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ky scrambled (Post 42229937)
Lucky! Mine wouldn't turn by hand.

You seem more intelligent than me so take it for whats its worth but I took mine apart twice and couldn't find anything wrong :laughing:

Haha not sure on the intelligence lol but they spin so far... I do have pliers in the back, maybe I should throw a set in the door too.

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ky scrambled 10-22-2017 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 42229961)
Haha not sure on the intelligence lol but they spin so far... I do have pliers in the back, maybe I should throw a set in the door too.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Mine was a a 99. Not sure how much different the system is than yours.

DE Jeeper 10-22-2017 06:44 PM

Yes that seal in the axle tube is just a dust seal. Its been my experience that the ford auto hubs r unreliable at best. My '02 work truck had them replace cost over $600.

Java 10-22-2017 06:45 PM

Thanks, Google has told me it's a dust seal too. Sounds not too important, but I'd rather not fill the axle tube with moisture.....

And yeah seems the auto hubs suck. Ugh

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77fixer 10-22-2017 08:37 PM

Its been awhile since I had to deal with the hubs, but IIRC there is a seal on the unit bearing that goes bad or the problem is in the bearing assy itself.

Pt_Ranger_V8 10-24-2017 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DE Jeeper (Post 42231673)
Yes that seal in the axle tube is just a dust seal. Its been my experience that the ford auto hubs r unreliable at best. My '02 work truck had them replace cost over $600.

That sound about right.

You can covert them to manual with a set of aftermarket hubs for ~$1000, I think.

The dust seal isn't a huge deal - unless you have diff fluid coming out :flipoff2:

For the hubs, definitely don't count on the vacuum lock setup that some special needs Ford engineer came up with. It's trying to hold a vacuum inside a hub that's submerged in shit/water/rocks/ice/snow/etc. It's just a bad design. Just manually lock them in and ignore the auto shit.

Java 10-24-2017 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pt_Ranger_V8 (Post 42242777)
That sound about right.

You can covert them to manual with a set of aftermarket hubs for ~$1000, I think.

The dust seal isn't a huge deal - unless you have diff fluid coming out :flipoff2:

For the hubs, definitely don't count on the vacuum lock setup that some special needs Ford engineer came up with. It's trying to hold a vacuum inside a hub that's submerged in shit/water/rocks/ice/snow/etc. It's just a bad design. Just manually lock them in and ignore the auto shit.

No diff lube coming out. May try to goober some rtv on there to just keep the large amounts of water out.

Yeah Spyntec makes a hub the gets rid of the unit bearings and goes to manual hubs. but they are $$$. Luckily my hubs still work so far.

MJDoppler 10-26-2017 06:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 42229873)
For engaging the hubs? They work smooth at the moment! A little hard to turn but nothing fingers can't handle.

Any idea on the seal? Seems like it's just a dust seal really.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

There is a vacuum switch on the passenger fender that controls the vacuum applied/released to the hubs. More than likely this is your problem.

2008 FORD F-250 SUPER DUTY 6.4L V8 DIESEL Turbocharged Parts | RockAuto

same part # for F250-F550

Java 10-26-2017 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJDoppler (Post 42260065)
There is a vacuum switch on the passenger fender that controls the vacuum applied/released to the hubs. More than likely this is your problem.

2008 FORD F-250 SUPER DUTY 6.4L V8 DIESEL Turbocharged Parts | RockAuto

same part # for F250-F550

Thanks! Any way to test it?

EDIT: Assuming this is the part you meant to link http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....440007&jsn=505

Java 10-31-2017 08:42 AM

Decided to do a little "camp light" project. Sometimes I hate having the bright outdoor lights on, so I did some little puddle lights along the bottom edge of the truck. Enough light to find the stairs, but not be overly bright.

Start with cheap marker lights, they mount in a 3/4" hole.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4474/...e3401240_b.jpg

Bottom flange that runs around the truck is ~1.25", works great, drill a 3/4" hole.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4488/...52d1a75d_b.jpg

Pop in the rubber ring first, them slip the light in it.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4478/...dd727749_b.jpg

One cheap light up switch from Amazon, still need to make the bracket.... Apparently I am out of large angle alum.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4510/...3d2ed3f3_b.jpg

And done. Camera makes it a little brighter than it is, but they don't shine in your eyes, and give enough light to find the stairs etc.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4448/...a56c6cb5_b.jpg

pennsylvaniaboy 10-31-2017 11:21 AM

Where did you get the lights?

Java 10-31-2017 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pennsylvaniaboy (Post 42297986)
Where did you get the lights?

Just cheap clearance lights from amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Java 11-01-2017 09:20 AM

Had a little free time and it wasn't raining, so I got some insulation done. I picked up a roll of EZ Cool, basically just 3/8" foil faced foam. Wont do much for sound deadening, but should help a little with heat. The carpet in the cab gets wet from condensation when the dog sleeps up there in the cold, so I wanted to get something under the carpet.

Not much from the factory.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4458/...e0d8e9cd_b.jpg

Cut a chunk, lay it in, start bending, taping, cutting cursing. Cut it bigger than you think you need, it looses a lot of size when bending it around the contours. Don't forget the holes needed for bolts etc. I only pulled the back seat, front would be nice too, but I didn't have time to pull all the interior and trims out.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4489/...8081ee5b_b.jpg

Floor in place.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4484/...f5d81a72_b.jpg

Going up the wall. This was fun.... All the slots for the trim piece clips need to be cut. It really didn't want to go back on.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4498/...33ccbc53_b.jpg

Then up the back wall. This was glued with super90, the rest has just been taped in place/held with the trims for the most part.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4460/...e04f654f_b.jpg

Also wrapped around the cab to box gasket. Not much insulation, but it should also trap some air there that will help a little. Seat ans trims back in now. Not sure what to do for wall covering, maybe carpet, maybe wood panel?
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4511/...338cefc6_b.jpg

DE Jeeper 11-01-2017 10:55 AM

For wall covering try a cut to fit luan panel covered in 1" of foam then cover with marine carpet or vynal. It will help with sound and insulation. Worked real well in the pete sleeper.

Java 11-01-2017 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DE Jeeper (Post 42306770)
For wall covering try a cut to fit luan panel covered in 1" of foam then cover with marine carpet or vynal. It will help with sound and insulation. Worked real well in the pete sleeper.

I was thinking carpet right over the stuff that's there. I think it's too curvy for a luan panel. Would need to try it and see maybe

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MJDoppler 11-01-2017 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 42260129)
Thanks! Any way to test it?

EDIT: Assuming this is the part you meant to link More Information for DORMAN 600402

Correct, you can separate the line down by the knuckle (there is a factory splice there) and put a vacuum pump on the line going to the hub. Pull a vacuum and see if it holds. If it does then your hub is good, test each hub first. Then plug the vacuum pump into the rest of the lines one at a time and see if the lines hold vacuum. If not you may have a leak in one of the lines, if the lines test good thenyour problem is the solenoid (with the rare exception you aren't getting power to the solenoid when you turn your 4x4 switch on).

Java 11-02-2017 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJDoppler (Post 42312898)
Correct, you can separate the line down by the knuckle (there is a factory splice there) and put a vacuum pump on the line going to the hub. Pull a vacuum and see if it holds. If it does then your hub is good, test each hub first. Then plug the vacuum pump into the rest of the lines one at a time and see if the lines hold vacuum. If not you may have a leak in one of the lines, if the lines test good thenyour problem is the solenoid (with the rare exception you aren't getting power to the solenoid when you turn your 4x4 switch on).

Seems like a $40 switch is a lot cheaper than a vacuum pump..... But I kinda want a vacuum pump anyway.....

MJDoppler 11-02-2017 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 42315410)
Seems like a $40 switch is a lot cheaper than a vacuum pump..... But I kinda want a vacuum pump anyway.....

I just use one like this https://m.harborfreight.com/brake-bl...not%20provided

ElJeepo79 11-02-2017 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJDoppler (Post 42319530)

Spend the extra $15 and get the Mighty-Vac which you can also pick up at HF.

Java 11-02-2017 06:37 PM

Thanks guys, I'll look into it!

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ben2go 11-02-2017 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJDoppler (Post 42319530)

I have had one of those for about 5 or 6 years. They work great. The gauge isn't accurate but I didn't buy it for a gauge. I just need to pull a vacuum, not measure it.

Java 11-02-2017 07:28 PM

I was thinking more electric version, I'd like to be able to laminate skis, In a dream world where I have time for things like that anyway....

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lenross1 11-09-2017 08:18 PM

looking good. what did you decide to cover the silver insulation with?

Java 11-09-2017 08:21 PM

Probably a tan carpet to match the interior eventually. It's just shiny for now :flipoff2:

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Java 11-12-2017 06:28 PM

Another quick but fun weekend trip. Snow, snow and more snow!

Shout out to Stevens Pass ski area, they were letting people sled and not running them off like every other ski area around here. We stopped, had some lunch and did a bit of sledding.

Winter wonderland. We had to stop and push a couple of cars up/off the road and get them turned around. The guys on snowmobiles looked at us a little funny when we ran into them. But 4x4 works fine manually locking the hubs in (whew!)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4572/...4efd530c_b.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4543/...e185d275_b.jpg


Little lights are awesome, and actually kinda bright in the snow....
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4541/...70980809_b.jpg

This happened too :D
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4519/...6335e3fd_b.jpg

And doggo wanted more snow balls.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4568/...bb15b5b2_b.jpg

ben2go 11-13-2017 07:10 AM

Time for a 10-ton winch and more snowballs. :laughing:

Java 11-13-2017 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 42400578)
Time for a 10-ton winch and more snowballs. :laughing:

I wish.... Big winches are stupid $$. There is a used 16.5ti locally for 1k. But i would still need a bumper to hold it.

ben2go 11-13-2017 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 42403058)
I wish.... Big winches are stupid $$. There is a used 16.5ti locally for 1k. But i would still need a bumper to hold it.

I agree. May have to run tiples or quad Harbor Freight 12,000lbs winches with snatch blocks. Gonna need a lot of batteries and a huge bumper for them. :laughing:

Java 11-27-2017 03:25 PM

Thanks to @SKI_bike_camp for the suggestion, my cushions came in! cushionsource.com

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4581/...03b82326_h.jpg

Java 12-04-2017 09:28 AM

Great weekend!!!!

The LED lights are great really really good. We missed a family of dear that I am not sure I would have seen otherwise. Driving in nuking snow was not an issue, gave a bit of a Star Wars hyperspace look going on.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4586/...783d9c82_h.jpg

It was a good day for big sticks.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4546/...0dd1d40d_h.jpg

Ski fun! It was amazing, 28" in 48 hours.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4551/...b4c6e057_h.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4555/...114aaa13_b.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4531/...6ed9a7a7_b.jpg

Digging it out. Probably didnt need to, pulled right out just fine.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4520/...c9b1cf72_b.jpg

Now for some battery usage. We arrived Friday night ~6pm ish, this was Sunday 8 am ish. Was down a little more before we left. Lots of heat use, no charging at all.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4568/...f3b76e82_b.jpg
(IIRC we were at 123AH used when we were packing up)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4559/...2de63d9f_b.jpg

With a 6.07A load on it.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4547/...15ebd4a2_b.jpg

Im thinking the batteries may be a little tired? They were used. 12.3VDC seems low with that little of a draw on them.

Java 12-05-2017 03:43 PM

Ford Guys, what does your oil temps normally run? What's too hot?

Anything over 68 in this truck and the engine is really cranking, makes the oil temp head up a fair bit.

Normal is ~200, 68 is 203 on flat ground, goes up with mph increase.

I need some bigger tires to drop highway revs....

LeviGarrett76 12-05-2017 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 42576378)
Ford Guys, what does your oil temps normally run? What's too hot?

Anything over 68 in this truck and the engine is really cranking, makes the oil temp head up a fair bit.

Normal is ~200, 68 is 203 on flat ground, goes up with mph increase.

I need some bigger tires to drop highway revs....

My deleted 6.7 runs usually 198-208 on the highway empty. truck weighs 9100 lbs

Towing it can get up in the 220-230 range fairly easily .

I would assume the 6.4 would be similar

Java 12-05-2017 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeviGarrett76 (Post 42576482)
My deleted 6.7 runs usually 198-208 on the highway empty. truck weighs 9100 lbs

Towing it can get up in the 220-230 range fairly easily .

I would assume the 6.4 would be similar

Awesome thanks, I figured they should be similar as well. Mine runs the same range. At 60 it's 198-200 or so. But running 70 is 2500 rpms, drives the temp up.

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GLTHFJ60 12-06-2017 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeviGarrett76 (Post 42576482)
My deleted 6.7 runs usually 198-208 on the highway empty. truck weighs 9100 lbs

Towing it can get up in the 220-230 range fairly easily .

I would assume the 6.4 would be similar

Bout the same as my 6.0 as well, maybe a little cooler while towing, but it really depends on the total gross weight.

Java 12-06-2017 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLTHFJ60 (Post 42580890)
Bout the same as my 6.0 as well, maybe a little cooler while towing, but it really depends on the total gross weight.

Thanks! I guess I shouldn't worry about 210 at 70 then... I am basically light towing all the time, with really shitty aero. Takes 10psi to keep it moving 70 on flat ground.

Java 12-24-2017 05:14 PM

Great night in the woods, had a nice bonfire with friends. Slept cozy and warm!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4687/...b40e2657_b.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4732/...b9b7eb1d_b.jpg

ben2go 12-24-2017 08:17 PM

Please remind us of your heating solution.

The people on cheap rv forum are going with the Wave heaters from Olympia. I'm considering one for my camper set up. There are three models, 3, 6, and 8. They're true catalyst heaters so there's no open flame.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-57351-O...dc472f880b94e0

Java 12-24-2017 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 42720721)
Please remind us of your heating solution.

The people on cheap rv forum are going with the Wave heaters from Olympia. I'm considering one for my camper set up. There are three models, 3, 6, and 8. They're true catalyst heaters so there's no open flame.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-57351-O...dc472f880b94e0

I'm using a Webasto diesel heater, it's good so far.

My complaint with the catalytic heaters is moisture from combustion.

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ben2go 12-24-2017 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 42720769)
I'm using a Webasto diesel heater, it's good so far.

My complaint with the catalytic heaters is moisture from combustion.

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Yes. I agree it can be a problem. Leaving roof vent or upper windows open just a fraction of an inch seems to help with the moister problems.

Good to hear the Webasto is doing it up right for you. Do you have a burn rate for your set up?

Java 12-24-2017 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 42720881)
Yes. I agree it can be a problem. Leaving roof vent or upper windows open just a fraction of an inch seems to help with the moister problems.

Good to hear the Webasto is doing it up right for you. Do you have a burn rate for your set up?

Yeah we usually crack or open a roof vent all the time.

I don't have good fuel burn numbers yet (I left the heat on 72 overnight by accident) but one three days and nights we burned about 1.5 gallons

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ben2go 12-25-2017 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 42720969)
Yeah we usually crack or open a roof vent all the time.

I don't have good fuel burn numbers yet (I left the heat on 72 overnight by accident) but one three days and nights we burned about 1.5 gallons

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Sounds like a nice low fuel burn.

Java 12-25-2017 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 42722265)
Sounds like a nice low fuel burn.

Not too bad, I will get better numbers, but very conservative numbers are. 75 gallons a day

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Brimmstone 12-25-2017 09:15 AM

Been busy and haven’t had a chance to catch up till now. PM me and I can help you trouble shoot the 4X4 hubs over the phone. Seals down in the knuckles go out alot. If you have to change them the drivers for installing them are reasonable but I made one from PVC years ago.

Java 12-25-2017 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brimmstone (Post 42722793)
Been busy and haven’t had a chance to catch up till now. PM me and I can help you trouble shoot the 4X4 hubs over the phone. Seals down in the knuckles go out alot. If you have to change them the drivers for installing them are reasonable but I made one from PVC years ago.

Thanks! I'll get in touch after the new year. Good news is the manual locks are smooth and easy still.

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Java 12-30-2017 09:47 PM

750 miles, 6 days in the truck, good times!

We headed out to ski bum for a week. Shitty snow, but still had a good time.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4594/...3187192e_b.jpg

Lots of this...
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4725/...31b15a42_b.jpg

Skinned and trimmed out the back door finally. I can add the pics here too, but its written up there.
https://www.nwadventuretruck.com/fin...the-back-door/

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4642/...12276d9a_b.jpg

Now for questions.....
I think my radius arm bushings are toast. In 4x4 doping a tight turn the front end kind of feel like it locks up then unloads. It 'shimmies' instead of making a nice smooth turn. And IIRc the shop that did the pre purchase inspection mentioned something along those lines. But I am not getting clunking (I read that is the main thing people complain about with toasted bushings)

Sooo just replace bushings? Get new arms ( I mostly see ones for big lifts that are $$$, if I do lift it will only be 1.5")? Find OE arms to swap over?

Or do I have a LSD of some sort in the front too???

bdkw1 12-30-2017 10:27 PM

If you have good traction on all wheels, it will always wind up and unload in 4X in tight corners. You don't have a center diff..........

Java 12-30-2017 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdkw1 (Post 42759402)
If you have good traction on all wheels, it will always wind up and unload in 4X in tight corners. You don't have a center diff..........

Good to know. Thanks. I guess I sound stupid now.... Never had that happen before with previous rigs with solid axles and just a t case.

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Java 01-14-2018 09:01 PM

Floors are cold, really cold. So before the last trip I bought some cheap carpet and cut it to fit the kitchen/eating area. Had to lift the fridge a bit to clear it. I spray glued foam floating floor backing to it so it doesn't scratch up the vinyl flooring. That way it can be popped out for summer. I also didn't do any in front of the door, that way wet boots don't just soak it.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4721/...7beb6c85_b.jpg

Then I added a drain for the hot water heater. It has a valve it uses when it gets close to freezing to release pressure I guess. Good to know..... It dumped a lot of water out onto the floor. (you can see my ghetto vinyl tube in the carpet pic) now its a proper drain, down through the floor.

Drill big old hole.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4763/...974f9ff4_b.jpg

Make up the fitting and measure the piece of pipe needed. I am using PEX, its awesome.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4700/...43e6509b_b.jpg

And wala, water goes out the bottom of the truck!
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4608/...9cfe1cb9_b.jpg

Also got the Ham radio nearly installed. Just need to finish running power..... Picked up a cheap ft7900
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4732/...1535a496_b.jpg

For as big as the truck is, there is no where on the dash to put a damn remote face plate! I settled on this, its low, not going to be adjustable while driving, but should work ok.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4729/...d5a4d0a4_b.jpg

Also added a second gas strut to the bed, it wouldn't stay open when we stacked all the stuff on it that end up on horizontal surfaces....

Java 01-16-2018 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bubblegoose1 (Post 2422206)
Nice progress Gabe. Everything looks good and functional.

Thanks Fred!

I think I do well with deadlines..... My wife mentioned that the microwave would be a nice luxury to have. So Microwave it is. Inverter will run it, barely. Pulls ~85 amps, microwave makes odd noises, but it works!

So I made a little shelf for it to sit on, drilled small recesses for the feet of the microwave, hopefully that keeps it in place enough. Flipping the grey water lug sideways made enough room under the sink for it to fit.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4709/...fb083711_b.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4618/...1e8be33e_b.jpg

Need to zip tie the power wire up out of the way, but it shares the 120V plug with the fridge. Should work well.

Also got the water pump switch installed. For some stupid reason I can't get the "on" position when the LED is up, but I didn't power the LED anyway.... Tucked out of the way where it wont get bumped on or off.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4617/...179ff4f2_b.jpg

GLTHFJ60 01-16-2018 08:54 AM

Looks awesome!!

350TacoZilla 01-16-2018 04:26 PM

Man This thing is getting better every time I look in here and its really making me want to do a box truck/trailer rv conversion. I keep eyeing up cheap campers that are complete but maybe have smashed corner or something to scavenge parts out of.

Java 01-16-2018 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 42901386)
Man This thing is getting better every time I look in here and its really making me want to do a box truck/trailer rv conversion. I keep eyeing up cheap campers that are complete but maybe have smashed corner or something to scavenge parts out of.

Thanks! Yeah there was a newer palomino pop top locally for $500, made me think that's a great way to get all the guts.

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Java 01-16-2018 06:17 PM

Just got home, it's dark, I have to use the truck in two days, do I start this project? Hmmmmmhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...64016310e9.jpg

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NORDFORD 01-16-2018 07:27 PM

[QUOTE=Java;42902522]Just got home, it's dark, I have to use the truck in two days, do I start this project? Hmmmmm[IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180117/893d4b6206ecd8a34c16af64016310e9.

Are you done yet? Might as well get it done before it’s next use! Good luck and great build!!

Java 01-16-2018 08:52 PM

Thanks!

They are done, 50 mins for the drivers side, 20 for the passenger. Hope that makes the front nicer! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cea7b398be.jpg

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350TacoZilla 01-17-2018 10:58 PM

That is not a lot of up travel before you hit your bump stops, I cant remember how much my 550 had but I think it was bit more? I wonder how your front axle weight compares to a normal utility truck or flatbed, if its actually bottoming out all the time that could make for a rough ride lol. I would maybe look into small spacer lift or something, maybe even a step up in spring rate would actually improve ride if that is the problem. I know the bumps stops compress a bit and arent like metal to metal bottoming out but still might be a contributing factor.

Java 01-18-2018 06:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 42916762)
That is not a lot of up travel before you hit your bump stops, I cant remember how much my 550 had but I think it was bit more? I wonder how your front axle weight compares to a normal utility truck or flatbed, if its actually bottoming out all the time that could make for a rough ride lol. I would maybe look into small spacer lift or something, maybe even a step up in spring rate would actually improve ride if that is the problem. I know the bumps stops compress a bit and arent like metal to metal bottoming out but still might be a contributing factor.

Yes I think that's exactly what's happening on larger potholes etc. Wheels drops into hole, Axle drops, body follows bottoming out.

I am parked ass end down hill so the front is a little more loaded, so it's slightly more compressed, but not much. I have been eyeballing service trucks driving and it's similar. I might be a bit lower though. It's got 112k on it, and I am front end heavy.

I have been thinking of a 1" leveling kit might be a good plan. I should look into it again. It seems pretty level front to rear at the moment, which makes me think the rear could use an inch too. That gets a bit more difficult. Actually all suspension work on a heavy truck in a gravel driveway kinda sucks!

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Java 01-18-2018 09:58 AM

Looking at this (I dont have any good side on pics....)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4550/...68588405_b.jpg

The rear end would almost need to come up also if I add a 1.5" spacer to the front. I could pump the air bags up, and I think get an inch out of it easy, but that would effectively really increase the rear spring rate would it not?

christyle 01-18-2018 10:16 AM

Yes, raising the air pressure to hold it up is doing so because it's adding spring rate. I think the thing would look sweet with a So Cal bro lean, front high.

Java 01-18-2018 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christyle (Post 42921362)
Yes, raising the air pressure to hold it up is doing so because it's adding spring rate. I think the thing would look sweet with a So Cal bro lean, front high.

That's what I figured, the rear is nice and soft, but I only have 55? PSI in the bags, just enough to keep it off the overloads.

I want level.... :flipoff2:

christyle 01-18-2018 10:21 AM

They don't make an AAL or something for these? You run 55psi all the time? So if you lost an airbag, you'd be riding near bumpstops? Seems like you need more base spring rate, and add air to cover extra weight over normal?

Java 01-18-2018 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christyle (Post 42921402)
They don't make an AAL or something for these? You run 55psi all the time? So if you lost an airbag, you'd be riding near bumpstops? Seems like you need more base spring rate, and add air to cover extra weight over normal?

I put 55 (IIRC) in when I finished most of the interior, haven't checked in months to see what its at. They didn't run lines anywhere when they were installed so I have to crawl under.... That's on the list of things to do still.

No one makes anything for F450's. If I lose a bag I'll be on the overload springs a little, not on bumps.

A place across the state will custom make springs for me, $600 for the fronts, and $1000 for the rears. That's a lot of coin at the moment though.

Java 01-18-2018 12:04 PM

Stopped and looked at a utility F450 (pre 08 body style but running gear is the same) while I was driving around. Pretty well loaded flat bed, boxes both sides, water tank, small crane on the back.

Front uptravel was nearly identical to mine FWIW

350TacoZilla 01-18-2018 03:30 PM

Ah ok yeah I havent crawled under a bunch of them so I was just going off memory of my truck (and again mine was a leaf spring 550). Instead of pumping bags up or aal in rear I would maybe just consider running a 1-1.5" zero rate if it ends up looking like it needs it, heck if you have air bags on it I would maybe ditch an overload spring and then use the stock U-bolts that you just freed threads up on.

Java 01-18-2018 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 42924010)
Ah ok yeah I havent crawled under a bunch of them so I was just going off memory of my truck (and again mine was a leaf spring 550). Instead of pumping bags up or aal in rear I would maybe just consider running a 1-1.5" zero rate if it ends up looking like it needs it, heck if you have air bags on it I would maybe ditch an overload spring and then use the stock U-bolts that you just freed threads up on.

I would like to keep the overloads in case of losing an air bag. But U bolts are not that expensive to have longer ones made. IIRC they were $50 or so last time I bought some....

These guys make some really nice lift blocks for the 450/550 Dana110 axles. They are $$$ though Ford F-450/550 Fabricated Lift Blocks


Budget me wants to know if these would work under the factory rear blocks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...k_ql_qh_dp_hza

I want to say they 'should' but I am not 100%. Anyone have a clue? Are the F450 springs wider than the 350's?

350TacoZilla 01-18-2018 10:37 PM

I think they are but again I havent owned my superduty in like 2 years lol. That set of blocks is ridiculous price $140 for a 1.5 block? All they look to be is rectangle tube with a plate welded to each end that has hole for U-bolt to pass through, I know companies need to make a profit but thats what $10 in materials? I would personally go with a zero rate on this thing, just find local metal supply/shop and have them cut one to same length and width as spring pad and then get yourself a grade 8 or better allen head bolt and bolt it to the pack in place of stock centering pin.

I get you on the overloads as a fall back,you might even have enough threads on stock ubolt for a small block depending.


also just saw your comment about needing to run air lines and wanted to give you small suggestion. My dad and I ran his fill valves as the bolts for license plate so he could fill side to side individually but they were easy to reach, this is something I have seen done a ton since then but at time we were proud of our ingenuity .

Java 01-19-2018 06:55 AM

The F450's have a factory block that I don't want to loose. It has the bump stop arm On it. If that aluminum one fit I would do that in a heartbeat at $27... Just not sure of 5hr spring pad difference between the 350vs (round axle) and the 450's (square axle)

Anyone else have input there?

I have seen the air line license plate bolts. They are slick I will probably run then to inside the tool box on the drivers side though. That has all my fluids and whatnot and I was thinking about a little compressor in there.

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GLTHFJ60 01-19-2018 08:11 AM

I would not run aluminum blocks on a truck that heavy. I could easily see them deforming, and letting the u-bolts get loose, over time. You've got a heavy truck running on rough roads, not a Toyota pickup.

Those fabricated blocks look like more than $10 in materials and time to me. Laser/plamsa cut, welded, coated and you get to chose the height? That doesn't sound like a ripoff. They incorporate the bump stop arm, or air bag arm, allowing you to eliminate the factory block.

Suspension is not a place to cheap out imho. That's the route I would go.

Java 01-19-2018 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLTHFJ60 (Post 42928530)
I would not run aluminum blocks on a truck that heavy. I could easily see them deforming, and letting the u-bolts get loose, over time. You've got a heavy truck running on rough roads, not a Toyota pickup.

Those fabricated blocks look like more than $10 in materials and time to me. Laser/plamsa cut, welded, coated and you get to chose the height? That doesn't sound like a ripoff. They incorporate the bump stop arm, or air bag arm, allowing you to eliminate the factory block.

Suspension is not a place to cheap out imho. That's the route I would go.

Yeah they are $$ but looks very nicely done. I am waiting on a question I emailed them. I don't think the price is outlandish, they look like laser or waterjet cut pieces. Id love to get their file and make my own, but doubt that will happen :D

Im not sure solid good alum would deform, but no idea what those are made of. Billet is 'technically' 6061-t4 (what they use who fucking knows). My quick google says its compression strength is 10,000 kilopunds per sq in (1ksi=1000lbs/sq in), yield is 16,000psi. Call the blocks 2x3", so 6sq in of area, should be good for 96k lbs of force. I am not too worried about them collapsing. ~8k lbs on the rear end, spread between two blocks.

GLTHFJ60 01-19-2018 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 42928698)
Yeah they are $$ but looks very nicely done. I am waiting on a question I emailed them. I don't think the price is outlandish, they look like laser or waterjet cut pieces. Id love to get their file and make my own, but doubt that will happen :D

Im not sure solid good alum would deform, but no idea what those are made of. Billet is 'technically' 6061-t4 (what they use who fucking knows). My quick google says its compression strength is 10,000 kilopunds per sq in (1ksi=1000lbs/sq in), yield is 16,000psi. Call the blocks 2x3", so 6sq in of area, should be good for 96k lbs of force. I am not too worried about them collapsing. ~8k lbs on the rear end, spread between two blocks.

Maybe you're right, but it all comes down to the specific alloy they use.

https://alcobrametals.com/guides/aluminum

Java 01-19-2018 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLTHFJ60 (Post 42928922)
Maybe you're right, but it all comes down to the specific alloy they use.

https://alcobrametals.com/guides/aluminum

Absolutely! And I'm sure they use the cheapest they can get. They don't appear to be cast though which is good.

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350TacoZilla 01-19-2018 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 42928938)
Absolutely! And I'm sure they use the cheapest they can get. They don't appear to be cast though which is good.

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I meant more like you could build the blocks yourself for like $10 in materials, yes their nice looking and probably cut out using some $$$ machine or another but you could get same end result with a grinder and some time.

I wouldnt use those alloy blocks or any other add on block on top of stock ones. A zero rate is basically a block but it gets bolted to the spring pack making them bit more secure in my mind, and you would keep the stock block that has your bump arm on it.

Java 01-19-2018 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 42930962)
I meant more like you could build the blocks yourself for like $10 in materials, yes their nice looking and probably cut out using some $$$ machine or another but you could get same end result with a grinder and some time.

I wouldnt use those alloy blocks or any other add on block on top of stock ones. A zero rate is basically a block but it gets bolted to the spring pack making them bit more secure in my mind, and you would keep the stock block that has your bump arm on it.

So your saying basically a "dummy" section of spring added to the pack instead of a block. Not sure I want to deal with breaking the pack down (not going to remove it from the truck....), Did that once, (different truck) It was a nightmare to get back together.

I was planning to add a block under the stock one. Yeah stacking blocks... Or just get the stupid expensive nice ones.

350TacoZilla 01-19-2018 05:51 PM

yeah the work part is up to what you find easiest lol. I do mine without removing from truck and it works out to be pretty easy for me with maybe 20-30 mins per side but again your mileage may differ. I know its a kinda sketchy looking deal but again its just what has worked for me in past.

1. truck on level surface and chocked to keep it from rolling remove u bolts and bottom shock bolt from one side of truck.

2.With U bolts and plate out of way remove overload springs and pad from top of leaf spring pack. In your case you might want to leave airbags inflated until this point then deflate the side you are working on.

3.keep weight of truck on springs and slowly remove nut from centering pin, At this point I usually wrap the springs in a few wraps of duct tape just to keep the springs in line and not sliding out everywhere. I know some who have used ratchet straps or banding straps for this part also.

4.Use floor jacks or bottle jacks under the leaf spring itself and lift a few inches till you can get old center pin out.I place one in front of axle and one behind as close to axle pad as I can.

5.place zero rate up to bottom of spring pack and thread your new bolt up through and tighten new center bolt.Might be easiest to remove stock block to just get more working room here.

6. slowly lower truck/spring back down onto the stock block.

7. Re-install everything in reverse order making sure to air that side back up.

8. Do same on other side of truck.

Java 01-19-2018 06:27 PM

Seems straight forward except the flat part :) God damn gravel driveway. It's probably close enough....

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

350TacoZilla 01-20-2018 08:22 AM

lol for how heavy of a truck your working on you might want to befriend a shop to let you use their parking lot atleast, the whole gravel under jacks thing is a pain with bunch of weight on them (as I'm sure you already know).

Java 01-20-2018 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 42938090)
lol for how heavy of a truck your working on you might want to befriend a shop to let you use their parking lot atleast, the whole gravel under jacks thing is a pain with bunch of weight on them (as I'm sure you already know).

Sheet of Plywood under the work area helps.... I'd love to befriend someone with a big ass shop and lift :D

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Java 01-22-2018 09:07 AM

Busy Weekend!

Went snowshoeing Saturday. Wife broke trail all day!
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4722/...a899a14e_b.jpg

Started in my messy ass garage making some overhead storage.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4665/...7638b228_b.jpg

Hanging from the ceiling
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4719/...ec4b92e4_b.jpg

And filled up.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4629/...5faac18a_b.jpg

Remote switch for the inverter, so I dont have to climb under the bed to run it on every time....
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4602/...25fc7a30_b.jpg

And even got a coat of wax on the skis!
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4757/...d7e2e0e7_b.jpg

GLTHFJ60 01-22-2018 10:19 AM

Love those collapsible fabric bins.

Java 01-22-2018 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLTHFJ60 (Post 42954274)
Love those collapsible fabric bins.

They are handy. Should make good clothes storage.

GLTHFJ60 01-22-2018 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 42954298)
They are handy. Should make good clothes storage.

I've got 9 of them in my closet at home. Excellent clothes storage IMO.

Java 01-29-2018 12:04 PM

Skifari 2018 is in the books, it was a GREAT trip this year.* Amazing snow all week!

Did a little write up here:*https://www.nwadventuretruck.com/ski...bum-road-trip/



And picture dump for those who just like pics :D

Stuck and hit by an avalanche....*

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4664/...07ffb8a2_b.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/...6db90d32_b.jpg



Mt Baker*

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4694/...cdd1cbca_b.jpg



Sasquatch, BC

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4613/...d41dea67_b.jpg

The whole gang, 10 people, 6 rigs

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4705/...9a9f1b6d_b.jpg



https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4613/...3fce06b2_b.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4749/...a1639d6c_b.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4650/...ec71919c_b.jpg

Java 01-29-2018 12:04 PM

Whistler, BC

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4673/...e3a7b4f1_b.jpg

Parking lot meals

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4756/...2173265e_b.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4676/...abccfd04_b.jpg

350TacoZilla 01-29-2018 12:15 PM

Man I love seeing that you get alot of use out of this thing after the work you put in. I would look into a set of tire chains or something as often as you are in snow and ice, even just front chains would help if you cant get them on rear easy.

I just found a box truck container (or box/bed whatever you want to call it) that was designed to be put on top of a flatbed, so even though it will add bit of height it also means it doesn't have to be a dedicated rv and I could just pull the box off when I need the truck. I was thinking I would use the jacks like a slide in camper uses to load and unload it, now just to come up with the cash lol.

Java 01-29-2018 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 43010698)
Man I love seeing that you get alot of use out of this thing after the work you put in. I would look into a set of tire chains or something as often as you are in snow and ice, even just front chains would help if you cant get them on rear easy.

I just found a box truck container (or box/bed whatever you want to call it) that was designed to be put on top of a flatbed, so even though it will add bit of height it also means it doesn't have to be a dedicated rv and I could just pull the box off when I need the truck. I was thinking I would use the jacks like a slide in camper uses to load and unload it, now just to come up with the cash lol.

Thanks! Yeah its really nice to use.....

Yeah that would be a slick setup if you dont want cab access. Check out Ujoint offroad's V4 flabed camper setup, its slick.

I do have chains, and I did chain up the front, that was the only way I could get traction there (and at all really). I will likely grab a second set, the tensioner tool was one of the things that got buried.... And having all 4 would be great. Also I am thinking of putting the same tires that are on the rear on the front, the fronts had zero traction....

ben2go 01-31-2018 02:42 PM

N I C E

Good to see your rig getting used and whored out online. :laughing:

Java 01-31-2018 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 43028850)
N I C E

Good to see your rig getting used and whored out online. :laughing:

Hahahaha Yeah, started as a way for family to follow the build.... But.... I need some damn wheels and tires.... and winch!!! I have lots of white space available :D

ben2go 01-31-2018 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43028882)
Hahahaha Yeah, started as a way for family to follow the build.... But.... I need some damn wheels and tires.... and winch!!! I have lots of white space available :D

http://cannonautos.net/wp-content/up.../Thumbs-Up.png

350TacoZilla 02-01-2018 01:49 AM

Yeah you need something with a bit of lug up front. Again I know its easy to spend others money when I dont have any invested myself but a 245 would fit pretty nice and you can get them in mild AP tread or more of a lugged M+S. Winch deal wouldnt be too hard since they make ton of options for your truck or could do a custom setup, my tastes run cheap so harbor freight 12,000 or 18,000lb winch and making your own hidden mount sound good lol.

Java 02-01-2018 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 43033146)
Yeah you need something with a bit of lug up front. Again I know its easy to spend others money when I dont have any invested myself but a 245 would fit pretty nice and you can get them in mild AP tread or more of a lugged M+S. Winch deal wouldnt be too hard since they make ton of options for your truck or could do a custom setup, my tastes run cheap so harbor freight 12,000 or 18,000lb winch and making your own hidden mount sound good lol.

Yeah I would like the 265's, I know they will fit, but the local Les Schwab (the only local place to get the Toyo M608's) wont mount them on my rims..... To skinny.

So Im torn, put a set of 225's to match the rears on the front, $1002.56 installed. Which seems like stupid to spend if I want to upgrade down the line anyway.

Or find another schwab location that will do it, ~4kish for 7 of the 265's.

Or go custom wheel.... I can go 19.5 and wide and run the Irok, or Founders MT. But they are Bias ply (same carcass I believe.) but rated at 6400lbs single. Not sure how I feel about bias ply....

Founders MT in 36x13.5/19.5
https://static1.squarespace.com/stat.../?format=1500w

Or go 20" and run a MPT 81 in a 275/80/20. My concern with the MPT is they are rated at 4674lbs, Thats not a ton over my rear axle weight (currently a bit over 8k, but Id like to say 9 is worst case scenario towing a trailer etc), also only good for 68 mph. They are also a pretty soft compound.

Thoughts?

ben2go 02-01-2018 10:20 AM

OOOOO :eek: I like those tires. I'm sure they don't make sizes to fit my Ranger.

87manche 02-01-2018 10:22 AM

I had bias ply swampers ages ago on a DD.

They were OK once warmed up. Winter time after sitting for a few days they felt like they were square for the first 10 miles.
Road noise and such wasn't any different than a radial swamper.
They obviously balanced like shit, because swampers, but I don't think that had anything to do with them being bias.

Java 02-01-2018 10:34 AM

Yep, I ran bias ply TSLs years ago. They were always flat for awhile in winter. Centra matic balencers are a thought.

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ben2go 02-01-2018 10:58 AM

44-inch bias ply TSLs beat me up on a regular basis. I couldn't afford two vehicles back then.:shaking:

350TacoZilla 02-01-2018 11:18 AM

Sorry for long winded reply but here goes lol.

Wow I can get the 225's for like $125 each shipped last I checked and a 245 is around $150, even the gladiators I like(QR90-pt) are $190 at moment for a 245. Simpletire.com.

I like the looks of the founders more than irok and both the irok and mpt 81 will wear out super quick (I have no experience with the founders so not sure there). You could always have stazworks or someone make 22.5 singles for ya and run something like a 255-275/70r22.5 that are 36-37 tall or jump to the 20 military tires like we have talked about before lol. I know stazworks lists that they sell recentered the military 20x10's for $300 each and know of few guys who have bought 22.5's from them but they were special order so no clue on pricing but I wouldnt expect a 22.5x7.5-9 to run much more than their 20x10 full custom rims at $470, you could also run adapters and just run off the shelf 22.5x9 hub pilot mini floats which is probably way I would go since I'm sure they make off the shelf semi adapters for your truck ($300-350 each for all position alcoa and while they mainly run a 315 you could run a 255-275 no problem).

for a decent drive tire in each size your looking about like this, most prices based on what I found on simple tire.
245/70r19.5 $150-200 33"
265/70r19.5 $175-250 34"
255/70r22.5 $150-200 36"
275/70r22.5 $200-250 37"
315/70r22.5 $275-350 39"
Founders 36x13.5x19.5 $645+595 per wheel
335/80r20 41" these are bit tricky to price since you can get them as military surplus at $200 each normally or stazworks has the brand new goodyears (smoother and less aggressive than michelin XZL) at $635 each

The main problem I see with something like irok/founders is you will never find a spare on the rd and have no idea how long the size will be around, now if you got a 8-9" wide 19.5 rim you could always just run a 265-285/70r19.5 with no problem and while they are harder to find they are a commercially available tire.

If I was picking up phone to order something for your truck with my own money it would either be
1.cheapest option of just 245/70r19.5's
2.22.5x9 alcoas and a 275 tire since they are bit easier to source across country.
3.re centered military wheels with a 335 michelin/goodyear military tire. Other oddball I would consider is going with 11r20 goodyear g177's off the m939 trucks. (43x11x20)

If going with the bigger tires I would get cut out front flares and then worry about lift if you still need bit of clearance but I would bet a leveling kit and bushwacker fronts would let you run any of tires listed basically.

Java 02-01-2018 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 43036138)
Sorry for long winded reply but here goes lol.

Wow I can get the 225's for like $125 each shipped last I checked and a 245 is around $150, even the gladiators I like(QR90-pt) are $190 at moment for a 245. Simpletire.com.

I like the looks of the founders more than irok and both the irok and mpt 81 will wear out super quick (I have no experience with the founders so not sure there). You could always have stazworks or someone make 22.5 singles for ya and run something like a 255-275/70r22.5 that are 36-37 tall or jump to the 20 military tires like we have talked about before lol. I know stazworks lists that they sell recentered the military 20x10's for $300 each and know of few guys who have bought 22.5's from them but they were special order so no clue on pricing but I wouldnt expect a 22.5x7.5-9 to run much more than their 20x10 full custom rims at $470, you could also run adapters and just run off the shelf 22.5x9 hub pilot mini floats which is probably way I would go since I'm sure they make off the shelf semi adapters for your truck ($300-350 each for all position alcoa and while they mainly run a 315 you could run a 255-275 no problem).

for a decent drive tire in each size your looking about like this, most prices based on what I found on simple tire.
245/70r19.5 $150-200 33"
265/70r19.5 $175-250 34"
255/70r22.5 $150-200 36"
275/70r22.5 $200-250 37"
315/70r22.5 $275-350 39"
Founders 36x13.5x19.5 $645+595 per wheel
335/80r20 41" these are bit tricky to price since you can get them as military surplus at $200 each normally or stazworks has the brand new goodyears (smoother and less aggressive than michelin XZL) at $635 each

The main problem I see with something like irok/founders is you will never find a spare on the rd and have no idea how long the size will be around, now if you got a 8-9" wide 19.5 rim you could always just run a 265-285/70r19.5 with no problem and while they are harder to find they are a commercially available tire.

If I was picking up phone to order something for your truck with my own money it would either be
1.cheapest option of just 245/70r19.5's
2.22.5x9 alcoas and a 275 tire since they are bit easier to source across country.
3.re centered military wheels with a 335 michelin/goodyear military tire. Other oddball I would consider is going with 11r20 goodyear g177's off the m939 trucks. (43x11x20)

If going with the bigger tires I would get cut out front flares and then worry about lift if you still need bit of clearance but I would bet a leveling kit and bushwacker fronts would let you run any of tires listed basically.

I like long winded, no worries.

The 225 ties I was quoting are the matching Toyo's that I have on the rear. I think they are a nice tire, and the go to 'offroad' 19.5 tire.

I realize I can get much cheaper Chinese options..... I just hesitate due to quality there, I have had one bad cheap tire experience... I'm not sure cheap tires are what I want. Gladiator does have a sponsorship form though.... hmmmm. The QR-90 is about the only 'agressive' 19.5 they offer though, and it looks less aggressive than the m608's I have now. And I would really prefer a 265 for the height and width if going single. (or dual really)

I haven't looked at the 22.5 options really as its still buying new wheels, and if I go that route may as well do the custom 20" ones. But maybe I should look into that.... I believe these adapters will let me run standard 10 lug semi wheels, but they are $$$$ too. 10 Lug Dually Wheel Adapters, Ford (2005-15) F-450/F-550 Dually (front & rear) (10 on 225mm) The 22.5x9 alcoas seem to be ~$400 each too.


Something in the 36-37" range is what I am looking for ideally, any bigger and it becomes a PITA, and the truck gets too tall. I want to stay under 12'6....

The MPT81's come in a 275/80r20 which is a good size, but I am near their load rating and they are limited to 68mph. I have heard of at least a couple people blowing them out at 16k lbs total. The other military (the goodyears) are just to big for me.


Arrrg. Im right in no mans land between size/weight ratings.

350TacoZilla 02-02-2018 04:43 AM

DAMN I just wrote up a huge reply earlier and had internet/power go out and when came back all gone...... so here goes again......BTW simple tire does have a 15% discount running on the toyo tires so you could get pair shipped to you for about $650ish

I meant the 245's if staying DRW or jump to a custom rim (like firematic or stazworks) and the 265-285 19.5 if wanting to stick with 19.5 but go SRW.

I found the alcoas for $315 each for 22.5x9.00 mini floats which have a 10,200lb per wheel rating. They say steer but I'm betting that has more to do with fitment considerations on a semi truck than a f450 and adapters lol but it would be best to bolt up an adapter and then measure what you need since they make something like 3 or 4 offsets. Yeah you would need the 10 lug semi adapters, just remember you should only have to buy wheels/adapters once since they arent exactly wear items like tires. The main reason I would consider the 22.5's is virtually any truck tire shop is able to service them and carry spares along with fact that 100's of 22.5 tires are in the 36-40" range with the 255 & 275 I listed being about the most common in the 36-37" range, 315/70r22.5's are common but are closer to 39". I was also thinking you could run standard rig wheels and go dual or just leave inners out for a single setup since even singles in 22.5x8.25 will have 7400lb per wheel capacity. If you go with standard 22.5x8.25 they are super easy to find used and one truck tire shop near me used to sell them for $50 each for steel and $125 each for alloy's, mini floats are just bit harder to get ahold of used so new would probably be best bet especially because of the 3 or 4 different offsets I mentioned before.

I have never dealt with this place but I came across them in my searching.
https://buytruckwheels.com/22-5x9-hu...rd-polish.html

10x10 Ford F450-550 / Dodge 4500-5500 adapter set are about $400 cheaper than set you found so be sure to shop around, your truck is same 10x225 as Healeyjet's dodge 5500.

If you were going 20's the recentered military wheels or mrap with adapter is way to go for sure as they are way cheaper than a full custom wheel and are rated to something like 10k per wheel. The problem is tire size on the 20's, the 275/80r20 is about only choice if trying to stay under 40" and I think the michelin xzl and MPT 81 are only choices. I have had xzl's in few different sizes and like them but the 275 is kinda rare I believe here state side and $$$ new. You already know how I feel about mpt 81's lol I have seen a set of the 335 variant wear out in 30k or so under a rig similar size/weight to yours.

I think stazworks torches out the centers of their steel 20x10 military wheels and just make a new center whereas with the MRAP aluminum wheels have a huge 11.06"(281mm) center hole with a 13.188"(335mm) bolt pattern instead of the standard rig stuff that have a 220mm center hole and 285mm bolt pattern that require the studs to be flipped and bolted in backwards basically. I found the aluminum MRAPS for about $80 per wheel on ebay + shipping and the adapters would have to be custom but they are a much simpler style that bolt to wheel then you just use stock lug nuts.

Tire brand and going cheap chinese or not is all personal opinion and preference I know and I'm sure there are ones to stay away from but I think there are a good many cheaper brands out there that have a clean record. I have had good luck with gladiators and samson as far as semi-bargain brands go for semi truck tires.

weight is also a big consideration, tires will ofcourse vary depending on brand and load rating.

steel 20x10 HEMTT wheels------150lbs
aluminum 20x10 MRAP wheel ---80lbs
alcoa 22.5x9 mini float------------54lbs
alcoa 22.5x8.25--------------------45lbs
stock 19.5x6-----------------------32lbs & 53lbs (alloy and steel)

275/70r22.5-----------------------90lbs
275/80r20 -------------------------85lbs
225/70r19.5 toyo------------------68lbs

6 stock wheels and 225 tires (4 alloy and 2 steel wheels) = 642lbs
4 275/70r22.5 and 4 alloy 22.5x9.00 mini floats= 576lbs
4 275/80r20 on 20x10 aluminum = 660lbs or steel= 940lbs

Java 02-02-2018 09:05 AM

@TACOZILLA350


Thanks for all the input!! I do really appreciate it, I am not nearly up to speed on the bigger stuff yet.

The XZL's only come in a 335/85 for the smallest so I think the MPT's are my only option in a 20" really.... Those plus MRAP wheels, plus adapters starts to get heavy.


I'm having a hard time figuring out the offset I would need. I cant find the factory Ford wheel specs anywhere!

Accuride has 22.5x9 with 3.12 offset, or a 22.5x8.25 (probably easier to find used) with a 6.59 offset. My thoughts are the 8.25's should work both front and rear as a single I think.... Adapters will add an inch or so from the hubs.

I think the 275/70r22.5's are going to be too tall, they are nearly 38", 37 is just about ideal on mine. The 255's should be just right. I am a little worried about losing so much contact patch in the rear though. It takes side winds like a champ right not.

If I go the 22.5 route, I gain a little sidewall, but I think the tires are so much stiffer it may not do a lot for ride. Larger rolling diameter is good though, Id like to loose some RPM's on the highway.

Java 02-06-2018 02:00 PM

Anyone have experience with Dayton tires? I know they are a lower tier Bridgestone. Rep says they will ride a little worse and be a little noisier than the Bridgestone, but they are almost 1/3 the price....

These are drives, but not quite as agressive as what I have on the rear now I dont think.
https://www.gcrtires.com/content/dam...yton/D630D.png

Java 02-06-2018 02:42 PM

OR these as another option. Only available in a 245 though, which is only 3.4% larger than my current ones.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1jVwRgqgIL.jpg

aczlan 02-06-2018 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43077906)
OR these as another option. Only available in a 245 though, which is only 3.4% larger than my current ones.
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1jVwRgqgIL.jpg

We had tires with that pattern on all 6 wheels of the F450 dump trucks when I worked for Trugreen. They worked well for plowing snow and occasional off road driving (mostly dirt roads and pulling out the occasional tree).

Aaron Z

Java 02-06-2018 03:23 PM

Thanks for the input! It's only a few hundred more to do all 6 of those than just the front two in the Toyo.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

350TacoZilla 02-12-2018 08:56 PM

Yeah Boto and Wanli both have that pattern avail for pretty decent prices, they are a old goodyear mold I believe.

The xzl's are made in a 275/80r20 (10.5R20) but they are hard to find. Here is a set that already sold, this place also has the MPT's in a 275 avail right now.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/275-80R20-1...vip=true&rt=nc

Java 02-12-2018 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 43126010)
Yeah Boto and Wanli both have that pattern avail for pretty decent prices, they are a old goodyear mold I believe.

The xzl's are made in a 275/80r20 (10.5R20) but they are hard to find. Here is a set that already sold, this place also has the MPT's in a 275 avail right now.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/275-80R20-1...vip=true&rt=nc

Interesting info on the Goodyear molds..... they are cheap, I am wondering how hard they get in the cold.

The MRAP wheels are really too wide, Stryker wheels are 20x8.5, but much harder to find..... And the bolt pattern is 8x275, which is a little small to try to go to 10x225. I need to do some backspacing math on the stryker wheels, IIRc they have too much which may be a good thing for a thicker adapter. Adapters would need to be custom though....

Broached the wheel/tire subject with my wife again, she pretty much told me to fuck off. :shaking:

pennsylvaniaboy 02-13-2018 09:23 AM

What about a continental terra plus?

https://twitter.com/oktirecarroll/status/786954756132524032

245/70R19.5 Continental TerraPlus HD3 Commercial Truck Tire (16 Ply)

Java 02-13-2018 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pennsylvaniaboy (Post 43129218)

Thats a nice looking tire! But its only a 245, if I stay with the 19.5's I would like a 265 tire. And pretty spendy too. I do like that one though!

350TacoZilla 02-13-2018 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43126090)
Interesting info on the Goodyear molds..... they are cheap, I am wondering how hard they get in the cold.

The MRAP wheels are really too wide, Stryker wheels are 20x8.5, but much harder to find..... And the bolt pattern is 8x275, which is a little small to try to go to 10x225. I need to do some backspacing math on the stryker wheels, IIRc they have too much which may be a good thing for a thicker adapter. Adapters would need to be custom though....

Broached the wheel/tire subject with my wife again, she pretty much told me to fuck off. :shaking:

I always thought lav/stryker's used the 16" rims with the 325/85R16 XML tires.. guess they switched up at some point. I'm sure you ran across this in your search's https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axles...green-nib.html

He gives the back spacing measurement with pics which is nice. If my memory is correct my 550 had about 8.75 bs on the stock 19.5x6 wheel, obviously for the dually the mounting flange is out past the wheel face.I'm not sure if the 10 lug trucks are same backspacing but I would think its close.

Java 03-03-2018 07:05 PM

Ok tire musing.

Mpt81's

Rated for 4674 lbs each, and 68mph. I am just under (like within 100lbs) of 5hr load rating, and I would like to do 70 at times. But generally cruising at 65 is fine.

Is this a stupid tire choice?

Discus.....

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Java 03-19-2018 09:14 AM

Played moto hauler this weekend. What a awesome basecamp it makes :D

My only complaint, I cant see the little trailer, period. LOL

First weekend riding for the kiddo, she did awesome. Wrecking and ripping the exhaust off was the only casualty :) Man its nice to be back on the bikes.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/819/2...6ab50ba9_b.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4783/...003749c6_b.jpg

aczlan 03-19-2018 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43405530)
Played moto hauler this weekend. What a awesome basecamp it makes :D
My only complaint, I cant see the little trailer, period. LOL

How about a couple of plow markers on the back corners of the trailer? That way you can get an idea of where it is back there?
26" Yellow for $20: https://www.amazon.com/Blade-Marker-...dp/B0191UXYBQ/
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1YOTfkYlEL.jpg
36" Orange for $30: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-MAR...dp/B076M8J4WW/
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1VsVyQ5XbL.jpg

Aaron Z

Java 03-19-2018 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aczlan (Post 43405954)
How about a couple of plow markers on the back corners of the trailer? That way you can get an idea of where it is back there?
26" Yellow for $20: https://www.amazon.com/Blade-Marker-...dp/B0191UXYBQ/
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1YOTfkYlEL.jpg
36" Orange for $30: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-MAR...dp/B076M8J4WW/
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1VsVyQ5XbL.jpg

Aaron Z

Yep I talked about that with my wife, I like flags too :D

a camera would be nice too..... That way I can watch straps and whatnot too.

bgaidan 03-19-2018 10:22 AM

Wired camera and a 7" monitor would be easy and cheap.

Java 03-19-2018 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgaidan (Post 43406394)
Wired camera and a 7" monitor would be easy and cheap.

That's the plan long term!

v6toy4x 03-19-2018 12:11 PM

I am from Aberdeen originally, had a lot of family and spent a lot of time riding in the humptulips and quinault area. Then we moved to CA when I was 14 and now I drive 3-4 hours to get to the siearras. Every time someone posts riding somewhere in WA I always wonder where it is.

So where is this?

Java 03-19-2018 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v6toy4x (Post 43407514)
I am from Aberdeen originally, had a lot of family and spent a lot of time riding in the humptulips and quinault area. Then we moved to CA when I was 14 and now I drive 3-4 hours to get to the siearras. Every time someone posts riding somewhere in WA I always wonder where it is.

So where is this?

We went out to Tahuya, in Belfair. Its ~2 hours from us.....

v6toy4x 03-19-2018 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43407546)
We went out to Tahuya, in Belfair. Its ~2 hours from us.....

Never been up in there, I do have relatives in shelton.

I didn't realize all the lakes, can you ride or camp at them?

Java 03-19-2018 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v6toy4x (Post 43407650)
Never been up in there, I do have relatives in shelton.

I didn't realize all the lakes, can you ride or camp at them?

Ride around them, most are more like puddles. Few places to camp, its free. Its all State forest/DNR land. Its a pretty good sized trail system.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/783/4...8b48c265_b.jpg

Java 03-21-2018 10:07 PM

A couple little projects, got the maxtrax mounted on the back door. It will be nice when they are snow and muddy.....

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/819/4...1d30095a_b.jpg

And OBA! It will be nice to be able to air down a little as needed, as well as fill the airbags. Puma 12v compressor, 2.0CFM @40psi, [email protected], 1.5 gallon tank.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4776/...bd2c6af9_b.jpg

I have a couple options, one to mount it under the truck, it fits just in front of the tool boxes on either side, or under the bed in the back. Under the bed is clean and easy to install, but back doors would need to be opened to turn it on, under the truck is out of the way, but in the dust/mud/spray, and harder to install/plumb/wire.
the easy option.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4788/...cc9fa42d_b.jpg

aczlan 03-22-2018 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43429554)
I have a couple options, one to mount it under the truck, it fits just in front of the tool boxes on either side, or under the bed in the back. Under the bed is clean and easy to install, but back doors would need to be opened to turn it on, under the truck is out of the way, but in the dust/mud/spray, and harder to install/plumb/wire.
the easy option.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4788/...cc9fa42d_b.jpg

I would put it there and wire it through a solenoid and a switch in a convenient location (with an airline run to the switch for a gauge so you can see the system pressure).

Aaron Z

Java 03-22-2018 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aczlan (Post 43431586)
I would put it there and wire it through a solenoid and a switch in a convenient location (with an airline run to the switch for a gauge so you can see the system pressure).

Aaron Z

Yeah That is what I am thinking too. But the switch is pretty easy to access there, and I can run a chuck over to the other side, that way only the "storage" door has to be open.

v6toy4x 03-22-2018 01:23 PM

I have had that 12v puma for probably 10 years under my dually for the air bags tires and occasional air mattress. Zero complaints, I did put it on a 60amp 6ga circuit as it was blowing 40s on start up.

Java 03-22-2018 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v6toy4x (Post 43435506)
I have had that 12v puma for probably 10 years under my dually for the air bags tires and occasional air mattress. Zero complaints, I did put it on a 60amp 6ga circuit as it was blowing 40s on start up.

Protected at all or just mounted underneath? Good to hear. I have a 50 amp circuit breaker for it.

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v6toy4x 03-22-2018 01:59 PM

tucked under bed behind cab and in front of duals, between bed side and frame rail, I did put an aluminum "mud flap" in front of duals so it is tucked up fairly well

Java 03-22-2018 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v6toy4x (Post 43435978)
tucked under bed behind cab and in front of duals, between bed side and frame rail, I did put an aluminum "mud flap" in front of duals so it is tucked up fairly well

Cool thanks, that's about how mine would be. I can tuck it away pretty well.

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Java 03-24-2018 05:27 PM

Lazy Airbag installer's filler location, not ideal. Climbing under the truck to check pressures or fill kinda sucked. Good news is that those are push to connect fittings there, and I have some airline.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/814/4...b5fb73fe_b.jpg

Now they come out the back. Much better.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/799/4...2a77e7ff_b.jpg

Java 03-26-2018 09:07 AM

A few more little things got wrapped up this weekend.

Added some LED strips under the bed, it was dark trying to find things under there at times. Not any more, I may have gone a little overboard on light :D

4 strips on the bed frame.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/820/4...734402ce_b.jpg

Made a new switch mount for the lights and inverter.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/818/4...bb00805e_b.jpg

Nice and bright!
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/798/2...33d3b6ea_b.jpg


Next up was OBA. I went the easy route and just mounted the compressor in the back under the bed. I love having a local supplier for nice wire, paired 8ga tinned marine wire. Good stuff. Used a 50A re settable breaker and it runs off the house batteries.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/805/4...c000f8a1_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/812/2...1872f019_b.jpg

Now a complaint on the puma, the stamped end cap where the air filter goes sucks, the threads are not well formed. I dont have a 1/2" NPT tap, so I got creative. The air filter had a very long nipple on it, so I cut it down, and simply epoxied it in place.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/820/3...0709722a_b.jpg

Ratchet strap holds it nicely in place, however it also holds the head of the compressor right against the wall, that makes the whole truck become a resonator :) whoops. I can release it when running if I need to.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/816/2...19429f7a_b.jpg

aczlan 03-26-2018 12:34 PM

Why not go up, over the top and back down?

Aaron Z

Java 03-26-2018 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aczlan (Post 43464754)
Why not go up, over the top and back down?

Aaron Z

Because I didn't think of that and probably cut the strap too short! :laughing:

Only reason I could think of not too is that the tie down point on the bottom is a pivot, and only half is way flipped up under the compressor before it hits the tank.

aczlan 03-26-2018 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43464778)
Because I didn't think of that and probably cut the strap too short! :laughing:

Only reason I could think of not too is that the tie down point on the bottom is a pivot, and only half is way flipped up under the compressor before it hits the tank.

Perhaps a piece of stiff foam or a piece of rubber would be enough to isolate it.

Aaron Z

Java 03-26-2018 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aczlan (Post 43465162)
Perhaps a piece of stiff foam or a piece of rubber would be enough to isolate it.

Aaron Z

Possibly a piece of horse stall mat or neoprene, it will have to take pretty high temps.

ky scrambled 03-26-2018 02:02 PM

Mount it on a set of rails to slide it inward from the wall?

Java 03-26-2018 02:03 PM

That could work, Or just make a real mount, not just a strap. I could bolt it to the floor, that would help.... I was trying to leave it semi mobile if needed.

aczlan 03-26-2018 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43465178)
Possibly a piece of horse stall mat or neoprene, it will have to take pretty high temps.

Move the top bracket down, run the strap between the tank and the motor and put the rubber between the tank and the wall.

Aaron Z

Java 04-11-2018 10:37 AM

Took another ski trip, probably the last one for the year realistically.

Snow is rapidly vanishing....
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/887/4...dc8ef4c4_b.jpg

This is the same CG at the end of Jan
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4722/...480200c6_b.jpg

Sunny spring skiing!
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/886/4...9a43d212_b.jpg

A bit of snow rain mix down low the next couple days.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/900/4...38d79fd8_b.jpg

Delicious treats and weather warm enough to have the door open! :D
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/895/4...ea9c1fd0_b.jpg

Driving up to the mid station lot makes for an easy spot. Parking right under the gondola.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/786/3...94e445cd_b.jpg

Truck runs great, drives nice, there was a bit of a wind storm, 60+ side wind gusts, never felt bad at all. Averaged 9.6mpg doing 67mph in the 70 zones and 62-65 in the 60. Lots of stop and go and twisty windy in there too.

Java 04-12-2018 10:12 PM

Thinking about tires again.....
Treadwright opinions?

I had tread squirm bad on a set of 16" versions I had 5 years ago or so. They are "remolded" now, I think mine were a cap. Any real difference?

This is a heavy truck.

Remold tire.

On Steers?


They make a full on Mt tire in a 245/70r19.5. It's cheap and an aggressive pattern.....

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v6toy4x 04-13-2018 03:39 PM

Re anything on the steer of the rig I put my family in?

NO FUCKING WAY

Java 04-13-2018 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v6toy4x (Post 43596202)
Re anything on the steer of the rig I put my family in?

NO FUCKING WAY

Even though a remold is the same basic way they make new tires?

I agree with the sentiment for retreads, just trying to learn what is common place for remolds.

v6toy4x 04-13-2018 04:11 PM

https://offroadtiresusa.weebly.com/about.html

You have probably watched this video
The tire core is the structural integrity of the tire.
The core of the tire is used, it gets a visual inspection by a guy that they pay??
They allow cores with holes that they patch, not saying it doen't work but would you use tube steel on your buggy that came with a bunch of holes patch welded
There is no high tech method to truly inspect the integrity of the sidewall

So lets say a guy has a slow leaker every few days he looks and its damn near flat so he fills it up over and over.

Then he buys a new tire and that decent looking core ends up on the front of your rig with a nice new coat of rubber

I am not bashing I just went through this whole dilema 5 years ago I had two duallys both needing tires

I just couldnt do it on the fronts of either or the rears of the one with the camper. I did do it on the rears of the utility truck but my family doesn't ride in that one.

Java 04-13-2018 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v6toy4x (Post 43596362)
https://offroadtiresusa.weebly.com/about.html

You have probably watched this video

The core of the tire is used, it gets a visual inspection by a guy that they pay??
They use core with holes that they patch
There is no high tech method to truly inspect the integrity of the sidewall

So lets say a guy has a slow leaker every few days he looks and its damn near flat so he fills it up over and over. Then one morning he is late for work and just drives on it.

The next week he buys a new tire and that decent looking core ends up on the front of your rig with a nice new coat of rubber

I am not bashing I just went through this whole dilema 5 years ago I had two duallys both needing tires

I just couldnt do it on the fronts of either or the rears of the one with the camper. I did do it on the rears of the utility truck but my family doesn't ride in that one.

Yes I have seen that one, and I do agree I don't think they should use ones that they are patching Etc, and I would hope they don't, but no way to know. My concern with retreads is the Treads generally come off rather than The core blowing out. Maybe that is not the case, but it seems to be the most common failure. You are right though the carcass could already have 50,000 miles on it or more. I feel like on the heavier truck tires the carcass is built better than the LT tires, but I could be misguided.

I ran recapped treadwright on a previous truck on 16 in carcasses and hated them. The remolded ones look like a much better Tire.

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v6toy4x 04-13-2018 04:29 PM

I will give you remold is much better than recap

I wasn't as concerned about the new rubber coming off as I knew the abuse I put my tires thru before I got new ones and to think those cores ending up on the front of your family RV makes me cringe.

Thats all, I am just glad to see you haven't worn tired of the project and keep moving forward. I am envious of the 450 platform.

Enjoy

Java 04-13-2018 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v6toy4x (Post 43596450)
I will give you remold is much better than recap

I wasn't as concerned about the new rubber coming off as I knew the abuse I put my tires thru before I got new ones and to think those cores ending up on the front of your family RV makes me cringe.

Thats all, I am just glad to see you haven't worn tired of the project and keep moving forward. I am envious of the 450 platform.

Enjoy

Fair enough, maybe I need to do some research into Tire cores and how they wear with mileage to make any decisions.

I appreciate your input!

Not tired of the project yet, every time we use it I get reminded how awesome it is. Doing Tire research because I want to use it a lot more this summer, including more off road.

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mwilliamshs 04-14-2018 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43596466)
... Doing Tire research because I want to use it a lot more this summer, including more off road.

Heat kills tires. My friends and I run retread and remolded studded m/ts in the winter as a way to get cheap snow tires. They never survive a summer for the guys that have tried it. When a DRW farm truck loses a rear tire, a steel flatbed gets scratched and maybe a load of cows is late to the auction. When a motorhome loses a steer tire on a family vacation in the mountains...that's BAD.

350TacoZilla 04-14-2018 09:29 PM

I dont personally have a problem with tread wright but their prices are not that far off from brand new in the heavy duty tires. And remember with new 19.5's you can wear them down, regroove them once to full tread depth and wear them out again with none of the risk that a recap/remold has. If sticking with the 19.5's I think the 245 is a decent size and wont hurt your truck in any way, 265's are starting to get into unknown territory with the duals with some saying works fine and other don't.

treadwright is 154.99 per 245 right now for standard wear or 164.99 for premier wear.

I have dealt with simpletire multiple times with 0 problems and they have these (old goodyear mold I believe) brand new for 158.99 marked to 151.99 till the 17th with free shipping and they start with 1/32 more tread depth than the treadwrights (which are not regroovable)
https://simpletire.com/milestar-245-...21120009-tires

Java 04-15-2018 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mwilliamshs (Post 43605425)
Heat kills tires. My friends and I run retread and remolded studded m/ts in the winter as a way to get cheap snow tires. They never survive a summer for the guys that have tried it. When a DRW farm truck loses a rear tire, a steel flatbed gets scratched and maybe a load of cows is late to the auction. When a motorhome loses a steer tire on a family vacation in the mountains...that's BAD.

Thanks for the input. Yes, blow outs, flats etc suck on the family rig.

Interesting they do fine in winter and not summer. That's a good data point.

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Java 04-15-2018 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 43605913)
I dont personally have a problem with tread wright but their prices are not that far off from brand new in the heavy duty tires. And remember with new 19.5's you can wear them down, regroove them once to full tread depth and wear them out again with none of the risk that a recap/remold has. If sticking with the 19.5's I think the 245 is a decent size and wont hurt your truck in any way, 265's are starting to get into unknown territory with the duals with some saying works fine and other don't.

treadwright is 154.99 per 245 right now for standard wear or 164.99 for premier wear.

I have dealt with simpletire multiple times with 0 problems and they have these (old goodyear mold I believe) brand new for 158.99 marked to 151.99 till the 17th with free shipping and they start with 1/32 more tread depth than the treadwrights (which are not regroovable)
https://simpletire.com/milestar-245-...21120009-tires

Those are exactly what I am leaning towards. Boto makes that tread as well, and I think the TW's might actually be too aggressive for this truck anyway. They howl I assume....

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Zmann 04-15-2018 11:59 AM

we had some members on the Powerstoke Org have issues with the Treadwright retreads so I was curious and checked out the Amazon reviews

downright scary images and some reviews , then they were talking about mileage vs dollars spent ( as mentioned previously in this thread)
even if the retread tire had no issue the mileage sucked so bad that it was in close competition dollars spent wise with a new brand name brand tire by the time you hit 40-50k
looks like they are a great option for a vehicle your selling and don't care about the buyer :grinpimp:
love your box van !! nice work I have a Arctic Fox 811 cab over camper for my 06 f 250 and love the low center of gravity you have

sb406 04-16-2018 07:12 AM

I've been loosely following along with the tire discussion. But I couldn't easily find WHY you want to switch. I thought I read that you're running 225/70/19.5 Toyo M608's... Is that true? What's wrong with them? (I just bought 4 for the back of my rig in the 245/70/19.5 flava)

Java 04-16-2018 07:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sb406 (Post 43613801)
I've been loosely following along with the tire discussion. But I couldn't easily find WHY you want to switch. I thought I read that you're running 225/70/19.5 Toyo M608's... Is that true? What's wrong with them? (I just bought 4 for the back of my rig in the 245/70/19.5 flava)

I'd like to go bigger, drop highway rpms, and have a bit better roll over for bumps.

I have the M608z in the back, nothing wrong with them, just small. Only reason I was not looking at them again is they are stupidly expensive.

I think I will see what I can find for matching fronts and run them for awhile.

How do You like the 245's? They aren't much taller really than the 225's.

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MT4Runner 04-16-2018 07:58 AM

I ran Bandag recaps on the back of my Toter for 5+ years, and to my knowledge, they're still going strong. The shop I bought them from used a similar cap and sold them like hot cakes to logging truck operators.

I would NEVER put recaps or remolds on the steer axle of anything.

Java 04-16-2018 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 43614201)
I ran Bandag recaps on the back of my Toter for 5+ years, and to my knowledge, they're still going strong. The shop I bought them from used a similar cap and sold them like hot cakes to logging truck operators.

I would NEVER put recaps or remolds on the steer axle of anything.

Thanks, I have decided not to run them too....

Probably not doing anything for awhile now.

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sb406 04-16-2018 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43613825)

How do You like the 245's? They aren't much taller really than the 225's.

They came on the truck so I don't really know any different. 3 of the rears are currently Goodyear G124's. 1 is a "better" G622. They're all old and the 124's are chopped bad. Last week I noticed a nail in 1 and a couple chunks of rubber missing. I figured I've borrowed enough time and pulled the trigger on some new meats.

One of my wheeling buddies is a tire guy so I called him. He gave me a smoking deal, 3 options, and some great input. Being that he's a dealer, I'm not going to name him or list his prices, but I'm sure you can figure that out-

Option 1: Toyo 608
Option 2: Dunlop 461 - same price mounted as the Toyo's. He has these on his own service truck. Says they work good, but seem to be harder to keep in balance as they get worn down.
Option 3: Radar RD3- Chinese off brand. $130 per tire less than the Toyos or Dunlops. Tread pattern is very close to the Dunlop 461. Says he's had decent luck installing them.
Other advice- He told me that I'd probably run across the Toyo 920's online. He said they look good and mounted up a lot of them, thinking they're a decent tire. As he put it, they just don't work. Said he had a lot of customers come back complaining of swaying.

I decided to go with the Toyo 608's based on personal past experience with Chinese tires. I was forced to run Chinese rubber on my old trailer (14.5" wheels). Basically, they were fine for local hauls but did not like going above 55-60 for long periods of time. Started blowing load range F tires out in 1 year. One as low as 3500 miles. Granted, these were bias ply and trailer service, but I just couldn't justify the gamble.

Java 04-16-2018 09:24 AM

Cool thanks, I want to drop some highway rpms, and the 245 should drop about 80 at 65, not a huge change.

I need a tire buddy! Arrg.

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Java 04-16-2018 11:36 AM

Why must Ford make everything hard? The mirror really needs to be one piece?!
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/784/4...d2351e14_b.jpg

Mirror stem extracted, getting attached to a monitor for review.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/791/2...e48ff056_b.jpg

Taken from eye view point, does not bock much more than the mirror IMO
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/813/4...f60f9f5e_b.jpg

Wiring to come.... Wanted to have a starting and ending point before wildly running wires.

GLTHFJ60 04-16-2018 12:07 PM

Really like that idea.

Java 04-22-2018 02:47 PM

Okay, need some diesel guy input.

How much efficiency gain is there to a much shorter exhaust? Thinking about turning it out just after the cab. My only concern is it will soot up the side of it....

Doing that with lose at least 12 feet of pipe.

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ben2go 04-22-2018 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43658313)
Okay, need some diesel guy input.

How much efficiency gain is there to a much shorter exhaust? Thinking about turning it out just after the cab. My only concern is it will soot up the side of it....

Doing that with lose at least 12 feet of pipe.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

As far as performance, I can't comment on that. Turning the exhaust down would help minimize soot on the body, wheels, and brakes. My concern would be exhaust fumes making people sick in the back or them getting pulled up into the cab.

Java 04-22-2018 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 43659809)
As far as performance, I can't comment on that. Turning the exhaust down would help minimize soot on the body, wheels, and brakes. My concern would be exhaust fumes making people sick in the back or them getting pulled up into the cab.

Yeah definitely don't want fumes inside. The exhaust currently ends under the body, it was never extended out for the additional width of the box. So I just don't really idle anywhere for any long periods of time.

I don't think I'll change it unless I could see a performance gain, looking for more mpg really.

And in case I wasn't clear, I was meaning turning 90 degrees after the cab and exiting the side still.

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christyle 04-23-2018 08:43 AM

I'm not sure if it will be much of a mileage gain, but you'll probably see better EGTs. Unless your exhaust is stock, then maybe a small amount. I don't think my exhaust gave me anything but more sound.

Java 04-23-2018 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christyle (Post 43663137)
I'm not sure if it will be much of a mileage gain, but you'll probably see better EGTs. Unless your exhaust is stock, then maybe a small amount. I don't think my exhaust gave me anything but more sound.

Exhaust is stock other than the DPF delete. Lower EGT's would be good! I run ~1000 degrees if I am pulling a steep grade. More if I hammer down but I try not to go above that if I can help it.

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christyle 04-23-2018 08:57 AM

My duramax sits at 12-1300 on most grades, my alarm is at 1350. If yours smokes, the amount you'll be getting on the side will be annoying, up to you, but it couldn't be a bad thing to chop off as much as you can. Can you unbolt and just leave part of it off for a trip to see what it's like, then decide if you want to put some work into a new routing?

Java 04-23-2018 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christyle (Post 43663281)
My duramax sits at 12-1300 on most grades, my alarm is at 1350. If yours smokes, the amount you'll be getting on the side will be annoying, up to you, but it couldn't be a bad thing to chop off as much as you can. Can you unbolt and just leave part of it off for a trip to see what it's like, then decide if you want to put some work into a new routing?

Yeah mine will spike if I keep my foot in it, but 1100 ish and 30 psi seems to be a good spot for most big grades.

It smokes on accel from a stop, but that's about it that I can see in the mirror anyway. But the bottom of the box where the exhaust comes out gets sooty.

Edit: you can see the soot amount on the bottom corner here.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6d0e3e2974.jpg

MT4Runner 04-23-2018 10:35 AM

There's a good .pdf out there from Peterbilt or Freightshaker...talks about relative % change of fuel economy based on various modifications/upgrades.

As I recall, a couple of the biggest ones were:
Airflow--you're pushing a brick through the air. Make it more aerodynamic or slow down (or both)
Tire pressure (as high as possible) for minimizing rolling resistance.

Max efficiency in your engine. Bigger (slightly) turbo or bigger/colder intercooler to get max fuel burn.

Java 04-23-2018 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 43664169)
There's a good .pdf out there from Peterbilt or Freightshaker...talks about relative % change of fuel economy based on various modifications/upgrades.

As I recall, a couple of the biggest ones were:
Airflow--you're pushing a brick through the air. Make it more aerodynamic or slow down (or both)
Tire pressure (as high as possible) for minimizing rolling resistance.

Max efficiency in your engine. Bigger (slightly) turbo or bigger/colder intercooler to get max fuel burn.

Cool Ill go digging for it! I just read this one which was interesting, bends make more difference than length. Maybe just getting rid of the axle bend would be useful. The only resonator in the system is way back there too.

https://scialert.net/fulltext/?doi=jas.2011.1872.1876

Aero=my biggest weakness. The frontal area of this truck is HUGE. I could add a lot more tire pressure, I am running minimum basically in the name of a little better ride. I got 9.66 MPG's on my last tank, that had mountain passes and some higher speed (65+) for awhile.

As to max efficiency on the engine, IIRC that roughly where peak torque is correct?

Java 04-23-2018 11:04 AM

GREAT Weekend. Started out Friday night in a CG, but everyone there spread out, and no one was around. Windy and a bit cold, so we made a big ol fire to sit around.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/935/4...e2128e7a_b.jpg20180420_190136 by Gabe Engler, on Flickr
Hiked up Icicle ridge first thing in the morning, nice easy hike, ~3 miles each way, 1800ft of elevation. Weather was amazing! Sun, but not crazy hot summer temps.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/849/4...429a65af_b.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/855/4...fcc2f802_b.jpg

360 degree views off the top of the ridge.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/804/4...7f5875fb_b.jpg

Nest up after lunch was some Eastern WA slab climbing! Its been years since I was here (Peshastin Pinnacles) again not sure crazy summer temps, but I still got a bit of sun.... Forgot how damn hard slabs can be to climb..... This one is well bolted which is nice, but leading was a bit sketch still, lots of moss/growth on the rocks from winter. This was the kids first taste of real outdoor climbing.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/905/4...6d435591_b.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/904/4...fc36d568_b.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/931/2...1afb57cd_b.jpg

Java 04-23-2018 11:04 AM

Then off to find our camp spot! Probably the roughest road we have done to date. It wasn't bad, just slow going. A Subaru full of ladies just about drove off the road starting at us :D 19.5's don't give much, rocks make bumps, and this things sways back and fourth a lot, contemplating more air in the rear bags, but that would also increase spring rate. Maybe thats just a normal big truck thing. Will need a catch on the kitchen drawer, blue tape to the rescue!

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/922/4...fa00da0f_b.jpg

Pictures sure flatten the road out....
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/911/2...b34cf07b_b.jpg

Spot the truck? We hiked up the ridge for fun, it was steep!
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/832/4...50f07ed1_b.jpg

Nice camp site, someone sets up hunting camp here, they have taken the time to dig a flat spot for a wall tent, water drainage ditches and everything.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/856/4...81a3d426_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/924/4...8ebd0826_b.jpg

Now back to truck stuff. Backup cam worked good! Need to get the second cam installed. I aimed the one we currently have ~35 degrees out, I cant quite see the bumper, and cant quite see the car behind me unless its right on my ass. But I treid aiming it down to where I could see the bumper and it was vertigo inducing watching the ground like that :D aimed out a bit is much much better!

Also sat in traffic for 3.5 hours to get an awning yesterday...... all caused by a little fruit stand thing on the side of the road!!! ARGG. Not how I wanted to spend my afternoon, but only two bridges in and out of where I went.... Its a 8' Carefree crank out. I wanted the larger version, but the price was right on this one! More ugly colors!

Now mounting Q: The literature wants through bolts through the wall. I am assuming they are thinking typical camper construction with a thin fiberglass and luan skin. I don't want to through bolt.... It uses 2 1/4" bolts per mounting plate, Thoughts on 4 #10 screws in each plate (3 plates) instead? It weighs ~40-45# or so.

crashnzuk 04-23-2018 12:33 PM

You should be looking at the rear of the truck for aero/fuel mileage gains. Since that is a real box and not a moho, it would be easy to build/buy/install a rear aero device like the semi trailers have. That truck is towing a huge low pressure wake behind it (think vacuum). I bet you could find huge gains back there. Check out the aerodynamics section of Ecomodder.com, there is a guy there that built a rear aero device for his Ford moho and picked up something like 4 mpg.
Travis..

Java 04-23-2018 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crashnzuk (Post 43665025)
You should be looking at the rear of the truck for aero/fuel mileage gains. Since that is a real box and not a moho, it would be easy to build/buy/install a rear aero device like the semi trailers have. That truck is towing a huge low pressure wake behind it (think vacuum). I bet you could find huge gains back there. Check out the aerodynamics section of Ecomodder.com, there is a guy there that built a rear aero device for his Ford moho and picked up something like 4 mpg.
Travis..

I think I have seen that moho..... Ugly as sin! LOL

Ill do some reading, not sure I want to go full on tail, I am in and out of the back doors all the time and tow stuff.... Maybe....

crashnzuk 04-23-2018 02:14 PM

I feel ya on the ugly part, nobody wants to drive an eye-sore. For a giant gain though, I might :D
Travis..

Java 04-23-2018 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crashnzuk (Post 43665737)
I feel ya on the ugly part, nobody wants to drive an eye-sore. For a giant gain though, I might :D
Travis..

Agreed! Time for some coroplast and duct tape! :D

GLTHFJ60 04-24-2018 08:03 AM

Something like this looks like it would fold up against the doors pretty easily for use of the doors:

Semi Truck TrailerTail® Fuel Savings Technology | STEMCO

Java 04-24-2018 08:06 AM

Exactly, those are ~$2300 for my research too for the cheap ones.... That's a lot of fuel. I'm sure I could Diy one.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

MT4Runner 04-24-2018 08:56 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Awesome that your daughter was leading as well. That's so cool!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43664321)
Also sat in traffic for 3.5 hours to get an awning yesterday...... all caused by a little fruit stand thing on the side of the road!!! ARGG. Not how I wanted to spend my afternoon, but only two bridges in and out of where I went.... Its a 8' Carefree crank out. I wanted the larger version, but the price was right on this one! More ugly colors!

You'll like having an awning. I didn't ever realize how much I would use one until I got one. Use it a lot when it's raining or when it's sunny..but NEVER when it's windy!


Quote:

Now mounting Q: The literature wants through bolts through the wall. I am assuming they are thinking typical camper construction with a thin fiberglass and luan skin. I don't want to through bolt.... It uses 2 1/4" bolts per mounting plate, Thoughts on 4 #10 screws in each plate (3 plates) instead? It weighs ~40-45# or so.
Mine is attached with 4x #10 screws into the 2x2 MH framing, not through-bolted.

Ever think about painting the door?--even black stripes aligned with the body would tie in well.

crashnzuk 04-24-2018 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43671297)
Exactly, those are ~$2300 for my research too for the cheap ones.... That's a lot of fuel. I'm sure I could Diy one.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I just noticed you have barn doors instead of a rollup. That would make it easy to mount something to the door/hinges that folds flat when not in use and swings with the door. Get after some diy
Travis..

Java 04-24-2018 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 43671825)
Awesome that your daughter was leading as well. That's so cool!!



You'll like having an awning. I didn't ever realize how much I would use one until I got one. Use it a lot when it's raining or when it's sunny..but NEVER when it's windy!




Mine is attached with 4x #10 screws into the 2x2 MH framing, not through-bolted.

Ever think about painting the door?--even black stripes aligned with the body would tie in well.

Haha she was just cleaning the route, the anchor was offset a bit so we had some quick draws swagging it over. She did want to keep them on her harness all day though :D

I had not thought about it.... The wrap has always been temporary in my mind..... But that does look pretty good. Some black vinyl would be cheap.

Saw this the other day, kind of like it, and the pattern is random enough that if I wrapped it myself and thing don't line it it would not matter!
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/946/2...58eba2ee_b.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by crashnzuk (Post 43672065)
I just noticed you have barn doors instead of a rollup. That would make it easy to mount something to the door/hinges that folds flat when not in use and swings with the door. Get after some diy
Travis..

Yep no roll up! Barn doors are way better.

Java 04-24-2018 09:19 PM

Awning install went sideways.... Fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck. Last God damn hole. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7b7db9c547.jpg

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fredycruger 04-25-2018 06:38 AM

sucks
is that wire you hit?

Java 04-25-2018 07:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fredycruger (Post 43679913)
sucks
is that wire you hit?

Two....

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GLTHFJ60 04-25-2018 08:34 AM

That blows. Time to open the wall up and move some wires.

Java 04-25-2018 09:08 AM

I tested the wires, no 12v, so I thought maybe it was my "spare" run I had going over to the kitchen side. Stripped the end of that and tried continuity, nothing. No blown fuses, everything works still. Said fuck it for the night and went inside.

Laying in bed last night pissed off... Thinking about this bull shit......

I had a brain wave! I ran a wire from the lower cabinets up to where the 120V outlet is on the wall above the kitchen, the original plan was microwave up there, and I though I might need an under cabinet light, so I ran a LV wire between the 120V box and the lower cabinets.

Jumped out of bed, grabbed a roll of wire, strippers and my meter. Boom, that's the wire I hit!! Luckily its not being used..... Maybe be able to separate the strands and liquid electrical tape it. But its not the end of the world if that one ends up being useless.

Java 04-25-2018 12:05 PM

Fuck up fixes acquired.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/826/3...6de3883d_b.jpg

Java 04-26-2018 08:53 AM

Awning is on. Need to add the brackets for the legs on the wall still. And find a good light step stool, because there is no way in hell I can reach the legs from the ground! (thats an 8' step ladder in the pic)

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/948/2...067dd9e9_b.jpg

Java 04-27-2018 01:49 PM

Opened and added the leg mounts to the walls. Put them just high enough to walk under (unless you walking within 12" of the truck... )

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/956/2...7999ee0d_b.jpg



Give me a follow :) Or we will see how much hate mail I get in traffic....

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/951/4...992e6951_b.jpg

Java 04-27-2018 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 43671825)
Awesome that your daughter was leading as well. That's so cool!!



You'll like having an awning. I didn't ever realize how much I would use one until I got one. Use it a lot when it's raining or when it's sunny..but NEVER when it's windy!




Mine is attached with 4x #10 screws into the 2x2 MH framing, not through-bolted.

Ever think about painting the door?--even black stripes aligned with the body would tie in well.

So I showed this to my wife, she didn't even notice the door, just that the 1926 was gone :D I guess that's on the project list! She does think the door looks good tho.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Java 04-29-2018 09:24 PM

Anyone a mil surplus expert?

These look good to me.... Cheap, appear to be alu and none of the ctis shit.

https://www.easternsurplus.net/PartD...opean-Standard

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Java 04-30-2018 10:02 AM

Fuckers, someone typo'ed the price on the wheels. Add got pulled this morning..... I had sent them an email last night, they replied, it was a "duplicate listing"


Weekend report.

Took off early Friday to get some climbing done before the rain came in.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/944/4...0df01449_b.jpg

View from the top is pretty good.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/868/4...9fe6db21_b.jpg

Rolled into camp at sunset.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/955/4...65aa9912_b.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/969/4...c11a3d8a_b.jpg

Wet morning.*

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/961/4...c67f222e_b.jpg



That was the end of the fun, then we headed to the inlaws.... Last car on the boat!

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/907/4...1a76fd50_b.jpg

GLTHFJ60 04-30-2018 10:26 AM

Ferries always make me nervous, but at least you've got a lot of room to the edges! Love this thread.

ben2go 04-30-2018 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLTHFJ60 (Post 43717937)
Ferries always make me nervous, but at least you've got a lot of room to the edges! Love this thread.

I like it when they roll about 40 degrees to either side. :laughing:

Java 05-04-2018 08:50 AM

So I have mentioned its a bit of a jarring ride.... Well The USB ports stopped working after out last "rough" trip.....


Last night I pulled it apart to see what was going on. Luckily I left enough slack to get it out. And the switch panel uses a standard sized hole, so I can replace it as needed.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/982/4...27061da4_b.jpg


Bounced down enough roads to literally break the two PCB's apart.... There were 4 solder joints holding it, tore most of the traces off and broke in half. Was not expecting that!

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/947/2...e0c344b7_b.jpg



But I soldered it back together with big old solder goopyness. They reinforced it with hot snot. Slipped it back into the housing and filled that with hot glue too. Hopefully that lasts a bit longer :D

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/963/4...14c4a035_b.jpg

350TacoZilla 05-05-2018 08:05 PM

2 things.

What wheels were you looking at?The link now just goes to their main page. I have few contacts on mil wheels I can chase down.

What is your overall height now and have you had any issues at that height?

Java 05-05-2018 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 43757482)
2 things.

What wheels were you looking at?The link now just goes to their main page. I have few contacts on mil wheels I can chase down.

What is your overall height now and have you had any issues at that height?

They were aluminum MRAP wheels, but someone typo'ed the price..... Emailed them and it was a "duplicate listing" so they I pulled it. Was $125/wheel. They are the 20x10 Hutchinson's with the 11" ish bolt pattern.

Height is 12' 2 to the top of the maxxfans. No issues yet! Just breaking branches.... But the front is skinned in 1/8" sheet.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Java 05-07-2018 11:53 AM

Mobile cabin FTW. I love this truck!! 350 miles of pavement, half mile of dirt. Spent the weekend climbing in Frenchman Coulee. A little overcast which was super nice to keep the temps down.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/977/4...18edbdf0_b.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/982/4...1523b1f1_b.jpg

Lots of people, a couple big groups, but not bad at all.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/944/2...99eea062_b.jpg



Just terrible.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/868/2...2243b5e3_b.jpg

Getting up early was rewarded by not so many people on the routes, and cooler temps. The basalt is really fun, some slaby sections, but grippy, and lots of ledges and pcokets too.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/906/4...5b901a8e_b.jpg

Kiddo did awesome
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/963/4...3b48e6ca_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/971/4...4416e03c_b.jpg

Fun little slot canyon approach to one of the walls. It was actually pretty tight.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/868/4...12680cce_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/828/4...a2eebb97_b.jpg

Pretty crazy landscapes.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/978/4...00c0071b_b.jpg

Java 05-07-2018 11:53 AM

Ran across a couple danger noodles. Both were pretty small and unimpressed with us.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/829/4...e3071ce2_b.jpg

Tested out my folding solar panel. Its sold as "100 watt" but my reading seems to make me think its made from two 40w panels.... I was unimpressed. It was a bit overcast, but I saw 1.26A max. (it was showing 16w input)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/961/4...72149acc_b.jpg


https://farm1.staticflickr.com/950/4...cc50b210_b.jpg

Now back to truck stuff.

Pulled ryegrass grade at 64mph on cruise control. Oil temp was 212 and coolant was 208 ish? Goes from the Columbia river~500ft? to 2300 ft in 5 miles. Ran right around 1k EGT's at 30-35psi boost.

Thoughts on what Ford engineers their leaves to take? Its rated at 5,800-6,200 payload in the bed. Do they build the packs for 75% of payload? 50%? Supposedly they are progressive leaf packs. I have added bags and run 75 psi in them to stay up off the overloads. But I have been thinking of getting a custom pack made for my weight. Thoughts? Much benefit over bags and OE leaves?

87manche 05-07-2018 12:34 PM

if the bags keep you off the overloads I see no need for custom packs unless you're unhappy with the ride, or simply want to get rid of the bags as a point of failure.

Java 05-07-2018 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87manche (Post 43764881)
if the bags keep you off the overloads I see no need for custom packs unless you're unhappy with the ride, or simply want to get rid of the bags as a point of failure.

Ride.... Its harsh. I may be asking too much of a big heavy truck I guess..... But I am just about at GVWR, I figure if Ford figured on 75% payload as an average for their spring design, there may be some room for improvement. A little lift, more leaves etc.

If nothing else I may need more rear shock, I get a bounce or two on big whoops, everything else is fine.

ky scrambled 05-07-2018 12:50 PM

I like watching trucks getting built but enjoy watching them get used even more. Great thread.

Java 05-07-2018 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ky scrambled (Post 43765033)
I like watching trucks getting built but enjoy watching them get used even more. Great thread.

Thanks, it was fun to build, but using it is awesome! We feel like we are cheating all the time. Comfort is good though! :flipoff2:

v6toy4x 05-07-2018 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43764529)
Ran across a couple danger noodles. Both were pretty small and unimpressed with us.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/829/4...e3071ce2_b.jpg

Tested out my folding solar panel. Its sold as "100 watt" but my reading seems to make me think its made from two 40w panels.... I was unimpressed. It was a bit overcast, but I saw 1.26A max. (it was showing 16w input)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/961/4...72149acc_b.jpg


https://farm1.staticflickr.com/950/4...cc50b210_b.jpg

Now back to truck stuff.

Pulled ryegrass grade at 64mph on cruise control. Oil temp was 212 and coolant was 208 ish? Goes from the Columbia river~500ft? to 2300 ft in 5 miles. Ran right around 1k EGT's at 30-35psi boost.

Thoughts on what Ford engineers their leaves to take? Its rated at 5,800-6,200 payload in the bed. Do they build the packs for 75% of payload? 50%? Supposedly they are progressive leaf packs. I have added bags and run 75 psi in them to stay up off the overloads. But I have been thinking of getting a custom pack made for my weight. Thoughts? Much benefit over bags and OE leaves?

So what are your thoughts on VICTRON, are you using any thing other than the BMV-700?

Java 05-07-2018 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v6toy4x (Post 43765105)
So what are your thoughts on VICTRON, are you using any thing other than the BMV-700?

Victron is awesome. Very good quality and much easier to install (I had a Xantrex meter I returned and bought this one). I have a Victron solar controller also. I should have gotten the larger controller and the BT monitor. Actually if you have the $$$ the Color Control GX is really slick. BT, battery monitoring, remote monitoring, reads NMEA networks for tank senors, solar input etc, But its EXPENSIVE. All in one control everything Victron (and more) unit.

I am looking for a larger inverter charger and will go Victron if I can (looking used....).

v6toy4x 05-07-2018 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43765177)
Victron is awesome. Very good quality and much easier to install (I had a Xantrex meter I returned and bought this one). I have a Victron solar controller also. I should have gotten the larger controller and the BT monitor. Actually if you have the $$$ the Color Control GX is really slick. BT, battery monitoring, remote monitoring, reads NMEA networks for tank senors, solar input etc, But its EXPENSIVE. All in one control everything Victron (and more) unit.

I am looking for a larger inverter charger and will go Victron if I can (looking used....).

I have all VICTRON except the inverter charger is magnum
MPPT 150/70TR built-in blue tooth
BMV-712 also builtin blue tooth
REMOTE MPPT controller

I have 4 220 watt panels in parallel and was going to go with 4 75/15 controllers to minimize shading, linked through their VENUS GX (color control way too much $$) and bluetooth but 15amps wasn't quite enough. Doing 4 20amp controllers wasn't worth the $$ so I went with the single 150/70

It works very well, I just hadn't seen anyone with any VICTRON til now!

Java 05-07-2018 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v6toy4x (Post 43765345)
I have all VICTRON except the inverter charger is magnum
MPPT 150/70TR built-in blue tooth
BMV-712 also builtin blue tooth
REMOTE MPPT controller

I have 4 220 watt panels in parallel and was going to go with 4 75/15 controllers to minimize shading, linked through their VENUS GX (color control way too much $$) and bluetooth but 15amps wasn't quite enough. Doing 4 20amp controllers wasn't worth the $$ so I went with the single 150/70

It works very well, I just hadn't seen anyone with any VICTRON til now!

Very cool, I have a 75/15, figuring I would use the portable or two 100W panels like my old truck, but the 320W panels fit perfect on my roof, but are too much for the controller. It says it will self regulate to 220w, but not exactly sure how that works. The panels are 47.5V and 9.61A short circuit.

Ive looked at adding the BT dongle to my system, but I think I would need one for each the BMV and Solar controller.

v6toy4x 05-07-2018 02:53 PM

They will prevent too much from going in. The MPPT is so nice cause you can use the more economical higher voltage residential panels.
How many 320s can you squeeze? I chose to run parallel because of the effect the shade has, which sucks! I like my solar but I like the shady trees more!

If you stay at 2 panels and keep at or under 60A there are definitely more choices.

I enjoy your posts keep em coming

carslut 05-07-2018 02:57 PM

great build an trip photos!...

v6toy4x 05-07-2018 02:58 PM

VICTRON 100/50 would run 2 of those

no blue tooth 294
w/blue tooth 324

remote controller 78

Java 05-07-2018 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v6toy4x (Post 43765793)
They will prevent too much from going in. The MPPT is so nice cause you can use the more economical higher voltage residential panels.
How many 320s can you squeeze? I chose to run parallel because of the effect the shade has, which sucks! I like my solar but I like the shady trees more!

If you stay at 2 panels and keep at or under 60A there are definitely more choices.

I enjoy your posts keep em coming

I was planning a single 320w for now, probably just sticking with my current controller. We really don't need it, we usually move every couple days which charges it fine.

IIRc I can get one 320W across the back, and 5 (maybe it was 4) 220W ones up there. Way more than we could ever use. I run 50-60AH a day generally, we are using a bit more now with the microwave :D

Quote:

Originally Posted by carslut (Post 43765809)
great build an trip photos!...

Thanks!

Java 05-08-2018 10:48 AM

Who do you guys like for custom leaf springs?

Deaver and Alcan are the names in my head. National was recommended by a guy with a Dodge and truck camper, Atlas comes up in the google, or there is a local company.

Thoughts?

ben2go 05-08-2018 02:47 PM

If you're investing some serious coin, maybe the local place can use your weights and custom make your springs without much wait time or possible freight charges. Those rear springs are pretty big n beefy.

Java 05-08-2018 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 43772882)
If you're investing some serious coin, maybe the local place can use your weights and custom make your springs without much wait time or possible freight charges. Those rear springs are pretty big n beefy.

The local guys seem to be mostly semi springs, my thinking as a more "off road" spring place might be a better bet.

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ben2go 05-09-2018 05:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43772930)
The local guys seem to be mostly semi springs, my thinking as a more "off road" spring place might be a better bet.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Cool.

carslut 05-09-2018 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43770898)
Who do you guys like for custom leaf springs?

Deaver and Alcan are the names in my head. National was recommended by a guy with a Dodge and truck camper, Atlas comes up in the google, or there is a local company.

Thoughts?

i put atlas springs on all customer rigs that come through the shop. they make each set in house so something custom is no problem.

Java 05-09-2018 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carslut (Post 43778146)
i put atlas springs on all customer rigs that come through the shop. they make each set in house so something custom is no problem.

Thanks, your the second vote I have gotten for Atlas. I sent them an email yesterday.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

ben2go 05-09-2018 01:13 PM

I saw this leaf spring info on expo and thought you may be interested.

https://expeditionportal.com/forum/t...5#post-2472460

Java 05-09-2018 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 43779794)
I saw this leaf spring info on expo and thought you may be interested.

https://expeditionportal.com/forum/t...5#post-2472460

Interesting, but much less weight in those rigs.


Talked to Deaver, $1500-1600 for springs, guesses around 10 leaves (vs the stock 2 plus overload), says 360 and maybe a little 401 (if anyone understand leaf materials.....) Stock height and ditch the blocks for more room for the pack. Can arch more as desired. Seems to think it will ride better being sprung for the weight. (but am I not spring for the weight now via air bags??)


Alcan quoted me $990 via email, need to call and get their feeling.

ben2go 05-09-2018 02:24 PM

If you ditched the blocks, wouldn't that give the axle a little bit more up travel with high arched springs, and in turn give a softer ride? Assuming, the springs are set for your rig's weight.

sb406 05-09-2018 02:27 PM

You said you're running the bags to keep it off the overloads right? What happens if you drop the air out of the bags and let it hit the overloads?

For being on 19.5's, I feel like my 6500 rides pretty decent. The more weight you put in the better it rides, but still nowhere near GVWR. No bags, just stock springs. And my wheelbase is shortened from 260" to 201".
Granted, I'm not running a lot of dirt "roads" like you though.

Java 05-09-2018 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 43780282)
If you ditched the blocks, wouldn't that give the axle a little bit more up travel with high arched springs, and in turn give a softer ride? Assuming, the springs are set for your rig's weight.

He seemed to think there was enough arch as is, and that additional arch was not really going to effect the ride. But your thinking was in line with mine. My concern with ditching the blocks is they have the bumpstops integrated into them.

Java 05-09-2018 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sb406 (Post 43780298)
You said you're running the bags to keep it off the overloads right? What happens if you drop the air out of the bags and let it hit the overloads?

For being on 19.5's, I feel like my 6500 rides pretty decent. The more weight you put in the better it rides, but still nowhere near GVWR. No bags, just stock springs. And my wheelbase is shortened from 260" to 201".
Granted, I'm not running a lot of dirt "roads" like you though.

Ass end sags, hits bump stops sooner squeaks like a mother fucker. The overload perches SQUEAK.

My issue is I am right at GVWR, just a couple hundred pounds under. The OE springs are 3700lb units, 2 leaves and overloads.

ben2go 05-09-2018 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43780306)
He seemed to think there was enough arch as is, and that additional arch was not really going to effect the ride. But your thinking was in line with mine. My concern with ditching the blocks is they have the bumpstops integrated into them.

I wonder what the aftermarket may have for bump stops. I think yours has the arms sticking off the block to the inside of the frame. I ended up running prothanes on my Ranger. I know, it's a different and smaller animal.

Java 05-09-2018 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 43780354)
I wonder what the aftermarket may have for bump stops. I think yours has the arms sticking off the block to the inside of the frame. I ended up running prothanes on my Ranger. I know, it's a different and smaller animal.

Exactly what I have, the arm things. I have not investigated what they hit though. Someone suggested hydro bumps, love the idea, but not the price....

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Java 05-09-2018 02:43 PM

Alcan says it should be a very good improvement, agrees that arch will not change the ride, just he ride height. He says probably an 8 leaf pack. $990

87manche 05-09-2018 05:36 PM

I wonder if your big whoop is because the pressure in the bags goes up on compression and then the rebound is just too much for the shocks.

edit:
Is your concern about using the factory overloads just the noise? Grease the shit out of the contact points.

crazybluerider 05-09-2018 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87manche (Post 43781434)
edit:
Is your concern about using the factory overloads just the noise? Grease the shit out of the contact points.

There is a product called lubriplate that is a graphite paint that is meant for applications exactly like this. Less mess and last longer.

Java 05-09-2018 05:54 PM

The overloads are only engaged with the rear end sagging 4 inches or so, I'd like to keep factory ride height to match the front.
Quote:

Originally Posted by 87manche (Post 43781434)
I wonder if your big whoop is because the pressure in the bags goes up on compression and then the rebound is just too much for the shocks.

edit:
Is your concern about using the factory overloads just the noise? Grease the shit out of the contact points.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

ben2go 05-10-2018 06:04 AM

Nothing worse than a vehicle that looks like it's dragging its ass all the time. :laughing:

Java 05-14-2018 11:00 AM

Every time we do a trip in this thing I realize how much I love it. Comfort, drive like a dream (AC sucks.... ) but its great.

Did ~520 miles, 2 lakes, two climbing areas, one island, one ferry and a ton of fun. Big loop, and crossed hwy 20 that just opened Friday, which is such an awesome area.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/979/4...e45120da_b.jpg

Came back for the tall walls from last weekend, I didn't have enough gear to climb them! Topped out our 60m rope, top anchor was ~90' off the belay station. So fun, had not lead anything that tall. Was not a real hard lead, a couple tricky spots, but some good pucker being that high.

On a ledge half way up
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/903/4...aeb00784_b.jpg

nearly at the top
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/980/4...23b6ce8f_b.jpg

Kiddo going up
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/979/4...ed6d3e09_b.jpg

Not a bad spot.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/949/4...f652c72f_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/955/2...d6a35b10_b.jpg

We headed to Fun Rocks in Mazama next. Found an amazing camp site.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/952/4...8b697de9_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/904/4...eb84c838_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/832/2...6303069e_b.jpg

Java 05-14-2018 11:00 AM

Fun granite! Tougher than it looked.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/825/4...747dc0e1_b.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/975/2...7a82b791_b.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/827/4...c9227ff3_b.jpg



Heading over hwy 20
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/907/2...bacc8202_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/823/2...6fa7c264_b.jpg

And I think we have a goal for the end of summer some time..... Its only a 5.6-5.7 climb, but 4 pitches, should be fun.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/973/4...73d9633a_b.jpg

And we saw both sides of baker today too!
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/968/2...de25de40_b.jpg


Now back to truck stuff.
Faucet has rattled loose a little. AC sucks.

I used my super cheap ass "AC Gauge" And it read "green" pressure, but it builds to ~70 psi on the low side, then drops the compressor off, like every ~6-8 seconds. I'm pretty sure the system has been apart, when the motor was pulled. Not enough pressure/oil? Ideas? Its blows cool ish, not cold. Worth buying a vac pump and gauge set and starting over?

Java 05-17-2018 03:54 PM

Spring mfg's they are all going to do a design/blueprint with my weight (probably using the same program?), are the springs going to be all that different?

Finally got a hold of Atlas, they would be 8-10 weeks out. Bummer. 8-900$ is what he quoted.

Kind of leaning towards Alcan as they are only 4 weeks out.....

Thoughts?

Elwenil 05-17-2018 04:20 PM

Any good custom spring shop will want accurate weights for all four corners and you usually will end up with very different front springs and the rears can be different as well. Think about how much shit is mounted on the driver side front corner versus the passenger side rear. For a lot of trucks, the battery, steering column, steering box, brake booster and master cylinder, fuel tank, driver and the majority of the wiring is all on the driver side. It adds up and will make a difference in the spring rates.

A buddy of mine had a set of Alcan leafs made for his trail rig with Orbit-Eye bushings and was really impressed with them. Generally Alcan and Deaver both have a very good reputation, but both are also known to be very expensive.

Java 05-17-2018 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elwenil (Post 43836281)
Any good custom spring shop will want accurate weights for all four corners and you usually will end up with very different front springs and the rears can be different as well. Think about how much shit is mounted on the driver side front corner versus the passenger side rear. For a lot of trucks, the battery, steering column, steering box, brake booster and master cylinder, fuel tank, driver and the majority of the wiring is all on the driver side. It adds up and will make a difference in the spring rates.

A buddy of mine had a set of Alcan leafs made for his trail rig with Orbit-Eye bushings and was really impressed with them. Generally Alcan and Deaver both have a very good reputation, but both are also known to be very expensive.


I have axle weights for them.

Alcan and Atlas are nearly the same price, Deaver is 1.5x as much as those two.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

v6toy4x 05-17-2018 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43836321)
I have axle weights for them.

Alcan and Atlas are nearly the same price, Deaver is 1.5x as much as those two.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

If you get the deavers you will be one of the "cool" kids!

Java 05-17-2018 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v6toy4x (Post 43836465)
If you get the deavers you will be one of the "cool" kids!

Probably won't go Deaver as they are way more....

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

350TacoZilla 05-17-2018 08:42 PM

I think he was just going for sarcasm lol. Any good spring shop should be able to get you what you want if they are given accurate info. As long as they are willing to stand behind product I dont see why you would pay way more for a name.

Java 05-17-2018 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 43838353)
I think he was just going for sarcasm lol. Any good spring shop should be able to get you what you want if they are given accurate info. As long as they are willing to stand behind product I dont see why you would pay way more for a name.

Yeah there are some bad reviews of Alcan in that regard, getting springs way wrong. But I'm guessing it's probably a lack of communication when ordering is my honest guess.

I got the best feeling from Atlas on the phone.

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v6toy4x 05-18-2018 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 43838353)
I think he was just going for sarcasm lol.

This:grinpimp:

I vote Atlas

Java 05-18-2018 07:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v6toy4x (Post 43840873)
This:grinpimp:

I vote Atlas

I'm leaning that way too.... But God damn it I want everything now! :D

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Java 05-18-2018 09:01 AM

Picked up some proper AC gauges.

After dumping one 12oz can in, no compressor turning on. Compressor engages jumping the low pressure switch.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/903/2...3c82531c_b.jpg


But let it run on its own and low pressure side drops to ~20psi compressor cycles off.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/956/4...bbfee096_b.jpg

So some googling says it should be either 26-27 or 34-36oz depending on which spec this truck is.... So I "should" have enough refrigerant in it, but the pressures are not quite right. Low pressure side drops to 20psi and the compressor cycles off. Plugged orifice tube perhaps? High pressure side never goes above 150 ish. Removing the gauges showed there is some dye on the high side.

Java 05-20-2018 10:17 AM

Had another fun weekend, but ran into a crappy situation..... I broke the black tank..... Not sure exactly where yet, need to dump it and clean the area.....

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/905/4...89cbc717_b.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/832/4...248b0a8d_b.jpg

Was very glad to be in the truck when it poured rain ALL night.

350TacoZilla 05-21-2018 12:30 AM

You were coming to the east coast to build me ones of these when again? (I keep forgetting and need to write it in my calendar) lol

Love seeing it getting used and I know I'm sounding like a broken record but this might just be the way I go for next camper/rv instead of having a trailer to lug around or a class C.

Java 05-21-2018 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 43856593)
You were coming to the east coast to build me ones of these when again? (I keep forgetting and need to write it in my calendar) lol

Love seeing it getting used and I know I'm sounding like a broken record but this might just be the way I go for next camper/rv instead of having a trailer to lug around or a class C.

Ha I toyed with the idea of building more than one. I think it would be fun, but custom everything makes it hard to make a business out of it. No one wants to pay what it ends up costing.

mmmm nasty.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/964/2...7d8877b3_b.jpg

Supplies.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/824/2...1c91a4e5_b.jpg

After dumping and cleaning..... See the crack? Looks like it flexed too much and that was the thin spot. Go back 30 pages or something and there is discussion about this blowing up in the middle of no where in the middle of the night.....
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/958/2...fdd064d8_b.jpg

Took a piece of alu tube, and a half a tube of 3M 5200, hopefully that not only glues the crack closed, but reinforces the edge of the tank there..... Metal tape is just keeping gravity to a minimum while the 5200 dries.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/825/2...1dd20607_b.jpg

While I was waiting for the tank area to dry after cleaning.... I added a POL tee to the propane line. That gives me a high pressure connection for anything, I can run an outdoor stove, BBQ or the firepit off the main tank now.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/951/2...b5a738c4_b.jpg

Works dandy! However I am not sure I trust the sending unit on the propane tank.... It still says 3/4 full. We only use it for cooking and hot water, but I have not filled it since I installed it.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/904/2...ec1008b7_b.jpg

ky scrambled 05-21-2018 09:06 AM

What kind of fawking stove is that? hahahaha

Java 05-21-2018 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ky scrambled (Post 43857858)
What kind of fawking stove is that? hahahaha

That's my fire pit I built :D Propane for the burn bans we get every summer.....

https://imgur.com/a/OYlxm

Need to make a small venturi (I got a big one, its too big...) or a bigger burner for it. It burns really rich and sooty.

MT4Runner 05-22-2018 08:44 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43857898)
That's my fire pit I built :D Propane for the burn bans we get every summer.....

https://imgur.com/a/OYlxm

Need to make a small venturi (I got a big one, its too big...) or a bigger burner for it. It burns really rich and sooty.

Very cool!

I built a folding burner that fits in a 50cal ammo can. Would be great to have a similar portable fire pit. I only bought a 0-10psi regulator and maybe use only 50% flow max when boiling water. 20psi of propane through a standard orifice is a HUGE amount of propane...and with no orifice, it's an insane amount of gas. Most barbecues run only 11" WC, or about 0.45psi. I think 3psi would be good for most uses.

...but I digress. If you add an orifice and a venturi, I think you'll get more oxygen in your tube, but you might turn your flame blue and you'll lose the "firepit" aspect.

You might try drilling a couple of 1" or 3/4" holes in the sides of the can near the bottom (below the mesh) so the flame can get oxygen from the bottom, but not efficiently mixed like your venturi.

Buddy of mine built a similar propane firepit as yours and used a galvanized wash tub. Without the lava rock, I was surprised how COLD that pit was. You really do need the lava rock to get hot and radiate heat out.

Maybe an adjustable shelf so you can put the lava rock up near the top when in use, but drop it back down to the bottom for storage? That 20' hose is LONG!!

Java 05-22-2018 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 43864506)
Very cool!

I built a folding burner that fits in a 50cal ammo can. Would be great to have a similar portable fire pit. I only bought a 0-10psi regulator and maybe use only 50% flow max when boiling water. 20psi of propane through a standard orifice is a HUGE amount of propane...and with no orifice, it's an insane amount of gas. Most barbecues run only 11" WC, or about 0.45psi. I think 3psi would be good for most uses.

...but I digress. If you add an orifice and a venturi, I think you'll get more oxygen in your tube, but you might turn your flame blue and you'll lose the "firepit" aspect.

You might try drilling a couple of 1" or 3/4" holes in the sides of the can near the bottom (below the mesh) so the flame can get oxygen from the bottom, but not efficiently mixed like your venturi.

Buddy of mine built a similar propane firepit as yours and used a galvanized wash tub. Without the lava rock, I was surprised how COLD that pit was. You really do need the lava rock to get hot and radiate heat out.

Maybe an adjustable shelf so you can put the lava rock up near the top when in use, but drop it back down to the bottom for storage? That 20' hose is LONG!!

Exactly why I didn't add any oxygenation originally, the yellow flame aspect. I think it could use a little air though, the box gets caked in soot. A little more oxygen in the mix should make it burn a bit hotter though no?

I think the regulator cant actually push that much gas through my burner, it almost gets lower past 50% on, its kinda weird (or its a shitty cheap regulator that just sucks :D )

I was trying to avoid holes in the bottom as this thing melts its self down into the snow in the winter. Might be needed though. And yes moving the burner up in the box would likely help, but then you loose the hose and regulator storage.

That hose is only 15'! (plus the 5' of regulator though I guess) I was thinking of getting a second one.

Java 05-22-2018 09:34 AM

Wife is out of town, which means I can stay up late working on the truck after the kid is in bed.

So I finally added a desperately needed latch to the kitchen drawer. Blue tape has been sort of working to hold it closed.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/949/2...e9dfd77a_b.jpg

Pulled the metal tape off as it was really slowing the cure, and the 5200 has set up enough to not sag out of the joint. Not pretty, but hopefully it holds together.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/949/2...c84fb45a_b.jpg

Then started to install my tank gauge. I got sick of trying top figure out how much water was left. Its a SeeLevel gauge, sticks on the outside of the tank, can also read the sedning unit on the propane which will be nice, and I could add a sensor to the black tank if I feel like it too.

Sensor cut to length for the tank.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/977/2...19d83861_b.jpg

Made a little shelf to hold the gauge unit. In stalling it under the bench seat at the moment. Not sure I want it up next to the Tsat and battery monitor. Debating.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/969/2...321d1d8a_b.jpg

Realized ti was late at this point and I was out of 18/2 to wire it, so I put the plumbing back together and went to bed.

DE Jeeper 05-22-2018 10:17 AM

We have the seelevel 4 the pete and it works real well. Only issue we have is getting the propane level to work. If u have a horizontal permanant tank u can put a sender on it but we have portable tanks. Vintage tank makes an aluminum vertical tank that has a port for a sender but they are money. I have found that the edges of the sender strips can curl, expecially on the exterior tanks

Java 05-22-2018 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DE Jeeper (Post 43865258)
We have the seelevel 4 the pete and it works real well. Only issue we have is getting the propane level to work. If u have a horizontal permanant tank u can put a sender on it but we have portable tanks. Vintage tank makes an aluminum vertical tank that has a port for a sender but they are money. I have found that the edges of the sender strips can curl, expecially on the exterior tanks

Good to know, my tank has a pretty rough surface so I was worried about sticking, it seemed to stick well, but I will keep an eye on it.

My tank has the sender built into the gauge, its just a 0-90ohm thing.

MJDoppler 05-22-2018 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43841529)
Picked up some proper AC gauges.

After dumping one 12oz can in, no compressor turning on. Compressor engages jumping the low pressure switch.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/903/2...3c82531c_b.jpg


But let it run on its own and low pressure side drops to ~20psi compressor cycles off.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/956/4...bbfee096_b.jpg

So some googling says it should be either 26-27 or 34-36oz depending on which spec this truck is.... So I "should" have enough refrigerant in it, but the pressures are not quite right. Low pressure side drops to 20psi and the compressor cycles off. Plugged orifice tube perhaps? High pressure side never goes above 150 ish. Removing the gauges showed there is some dye on the high side.

Have it recovered and vacuum pulled on it, make sure they leave it in a vacuum long enough to test for leak. Air in the system will not compress and will give you a false discharge pressure reading. Unless your going to plan on spending a lot of time doing AC repairs it's not worth the expense of buying a vacuum pump and performing routine oil changes in it.

Java 05-22-2018 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJDoppler (Post 43866722)
Have it recovered and vacuum pulled on it, make sure they leave it in a vacuum long enough to test for leak. Air in the system will not compress and will give you a false discharge pressure reading. Unless your going to plan on spending a lot of time doing AC repairs it's not worth the expense of buying a vacuum pump and performing routine oil changes in it.

Hmm is it worth trying to add a little more r134 first? I was thinking of getting a pump, they are ~$50 on Amazon

MT4Runner 05-23-2018 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43864634)
Exactly why I didn't add any oxygenation originally, the yellow flame aspect. I think it could use a little air though, the box gets caked in soot. A little more oxygen in the mix should make it burn a bit hotter though no?

Agree--not enough oxygen to give it a perfectly mixed blue flame, but 1/4-1/2 of what it needs?

You currently have ZERO oxygen in the can, so everything below the lip gets sooty. You don't get any oxygen mixing until the gas hits the air above the can. Makes a great sight, but doesn't warm your rocks or give you much radiant heat.

Quote:

I think the regulator cant actually push that much gas through my burner, it almost gets lower past 50% on, its kinda weird (or its a shitty cheap regulator that just sucks :D )
Similar for mine. I think I have the same chicom Amazon regulator.
Part of it, I wonder, is if my burner doesn't have enough flow (not that I need more flow/heat...when I turn it up past 1/3, the flames jump up 1" away from the burner, and it's an unstable flame that almost blows itself out.

Quote:

I was trying to avoid holes in the bottom as this thing melts its self down into the snow in the winter. Might be needed though. And yes moving the burner up in the box would likely help, but then you loose the hose and regulator storage.
Carry a small heat shield so you can float it over the snow?

Quote:

That hose is only 15'! (plus the 5' of regulator though I guess) I was thinking of getting a second one.
Higher quality 10psi regulator with two 60" hoses and needle valves for $18.99: https://www.agrisupply.com/high-pres...embly/p/91053/

I think the needle valve may be the secret. Use the pressure regulator and set it once...use the needle valve for flow. Higher flow with less pressure might help you with soot?

Java 05-23-2018 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 43870426)
Agree--not enough oxygen to give it a perfectly mixed blue flame, but 1/4-1/2 of what it needs?

You currently have ZERO oxygen in the can, so everything below the lip gets sooty. You don't get any oxygen mixing until the gas hits the air above the can. Makes a great sight, but doesn't warm your rocks or give you much radiant heat.

Yeah it must get some, as the rocks and box get hot, but not much. 1/4-1/2 sounds about right. There is a 40k btu venturi on Amazon I could try, but I think that may be too big still.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 43870426)
Similar for mine. I think I have the same chicom Amazon regulator.
Part of it, I wonder, is if my burner doesn't have enough flow (not that I need more flow/heat...when I turn it up past 1/3, the flames jump up 1" away from the burner, and it's an unstable flame that almost blows itself out.

Mine just doesn't get bigger, I dont see it blowing out I dont think. But a new regulator may be worth a shot.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 43870426)
Carry a small heat shield so you can float it over the snow?

Trying to avoid holes if I can. Rocks would fall out, water get in etc. It sinks ~10" at times.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MT4Runner (Post 43870426)
Higher quality 10psi regulator with two 60" hoses and needle valves for $18.99: https://www.agrisupply.com/high-pres...embly/p/91053/

I think the needle valve may be the secret. Use the pressure regulator and set it once...use the needle valve for flow. Higher flow with less pressure might help you with soot?

That may work very well! Its not really pressure we are trying to control, just flow, it just happens we can alter flow a bit with pressure

MJDoppler 05-24-2018 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43866746)
Hmm is it worth trying to add a little more r134 first? I was thinking of getting a pump, they are ~$50 on Amazon

What was the ambient air temp when that picture was taken? I'm converting all your readings from C to F but without knowing what the temp was I can't say yes or no to adding more refrigerant. I'm thinking that yes you are still low, which means you have a leak somewhere or previous owner messed with the charge. From the data I found your high temp for that day was only around 66F, doing the conversion your gauges indicate low charge. So the question is how low were you to start with? If it had a positive pressure in the system then you would have had some refrigerant in the system, but you don't know if it was on top of air or if it was vacuumed down and broken with refrigerant properly. If your pressure only dropped to 20 PSIG on the low side with the low pressure switched jumped out then I would say no to a restriction, if it keeps creeping towards zero then possibly.

So if your gauges read close to zero when you first put your gauges on then I would recommend putting the system into vacuum for about 30 min, close the gauges and leave it in a vacuum for 1-2 hours and monitor for a pressure rise on low side (2 psi is acceptable, 5 psi rise would be my max allowable rise). When pulling a vacuum 28-29in is probably what you'll see, so if it rises back up to 23in and holds over 2 hours you should be fine. If it keeps climbing then you definitely have a leak somewhere, maybe minor only losing a little at a time over several years or could be an annual task.

The critical part is once it is maintaining a vacuum make sure you break the vacuum with refrigerant, purge your charging hose by opening it at the connection on the manifold until a little refrigerant gas comes out then seal it back. Then you can open your charging valve and start adding refrigerant.

Make sure you have safety glasses on at a minimum, R134a has a boiling point of -15.34 degrees F, your eyes are significantly higher than that so liquid refrigerant in the eye will blind you as it boils off and freezes your pupils. This is why you never defrost a freezer with an ice pick or a knife unless your name is Murphy!

Java 05-24-2018 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJDoppler (Post 43878730)
What was the ambient air temp when that picture was taken? I'm converting all your readings from C to F but without knowing what the temp was I can't say yes or no to adding more refrigerant. I'm thinking that yes you are still low, which means you have a leak somewhere or previous owner messed with the charge.

It was ~70F. Engine was replaced by the PO, which means AC was disconnected I would guess. May have a leak, may not have been charged correctly or some of both. When I disconnected the high pressure line and bled the pressure out of the manifold gauge, there was dye in it, so I am guessing it has leaked before.

MJDoppler 05-24-2018 02:09 PM

I think there is air in your system after I looked at the numbers again with your ambient temp, edited my comments ^^^

Java 05-24-2018 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJDoppler (Post 43880074)
I think there is air in your system after I looked at the numbers again with your ambient temp, edited my comments ^^^

There was pressure in the system to start. ~70 psi compressor off I believe (I didn't have the manifold gauge the first try) not sure how much difference that makes.

I tried to put a can of r134 in, without jumping the low pressure switch, it did not take much and cycled on and off to around 70 psi.

Java 05-25-2018 11:35 AM

New goodies :D 1.5" solid rear sway bar, and a Bluetooth dongle for my battery and solar meters.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/889/4...f00f586b_b.jpg

Java 05-28-2018 11:56 AM

Glamped all weekend. Love this truck.

But my front tires (drivers is worse) are feathering a bit.... No play in the wheel, shocks are new. Radius arm bushings? (IIRC the shop that did the pre purchase inspection mentiones they were getting tied.) https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...df98d9fcda.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

v6toy4x 05-28-2018 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43885289)
New goodies :D 1.5" solid rear sway bar, and a Bluetooth dongle for my battery and solar meters.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/889/4...f00f586b_b.jpg

Careful with the blue tooth stuff, your wife is going to get pissed.

whatcha doing honey?
Just watching the batteries charge
Oh you rather watch batteiries charge than pay attention to me???

Been there done that:mad3:

v6toy4x 05-28-2018 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43892108)
Glamped all weekend. Love this truck.

But my front tires (drivers is worse) are feathering a bit.... No play in the wheel, shocks are new. Radius arm bushings? (IIRC the shop that did the pre purchase inspection mentiones they were getting tied.) https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...df98d9fcda.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

So when things get quite late at night do you grab a beer and just go sit outside and stare at it thinking about all the mods you can still do and where you are going next?

Java 05-28-2018 06:06 PM

I did do some Battery watching lol. But my solar panel took a shit too. One of the cells muat have Shorted inside, I thought it had bird poop on it, but it's a melted spot....
Quote:

Originally Posted by v6toy4x (Post 43892494)
So when things get quite late at night do you grab a beer and just go sit outside and stare at it thinking about all the mods you can still do and where you are going next?

Yep, I couldn't resist that pic. Looks cozy!

Tire feathering..... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9652aca8ff.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

v6toy4x 05-28-2018 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43892500)
I did do some Battery watching lol. But my solar panel took a shit too. One of the cells muat have Shorted inside, I thought it had bird poop on it, but it's a melted spot.... Yep, I couldn't resist that pic. Looks cozy!

Tire feathering..... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9652aca8ff.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

If you figure out the "feathering" cudos to you I have given up and write it off to a solid axe front??

I remember when I got my slide in, I live in SF bay area and got the camper at Apache camper in portland. I took my dad with me and we stopped at a campground on the rouge river on the way home and we sat outside coming up with all the shit I needed to do before the camper was road worthy until 2am. I never saw my dad again until it was done. He said it was my problem I told him it was his problem because he brought the crown royal!!

Java 05-28-2018 06:23 PM

Well I hope to figure it out.... We hit a couple pot holes hard last week, and I think I may have fed the alignment. I have not noticed the tire wear at all before.

I have a giant piece of cardboard on the garage wall with a running list. Not sure I will ever finish it all lol
Quote:

Originally Posted by v6toy4x (Post 43892518)
If you figure out the "feathering" cudos to you I have given up and write it off to a solid axe front??

I remember when I got my slide in, I live in SF bay area and got the camper at Apache camper in portland. I took my dad with me and we stopped at a campground on the rouge river on the way home and we sat outside coming up with all the shit I needed to do before the camper was road worthy until 2am. I never saw my dad again until it was done. He said it was my problem I told him it was his problem because he brought the crown royal!!

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350TacoZilla 05-28-2018 08:54 PM

I hate to say it but I think every 05+ superduty does that to the tires and with all your weight its not surprising. I think the only way to eliminate it would be full 4 link setup and then re-alignment.

Java 05-28-2018 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 43892782)
I hate to say it but I think every 05+ superduty does that to the tires and with all your weight its not surprising. I think the only way to eliminate it would be full 4 link setup and then re-alignment.

Hmmmm ok, I just haven't seen it before, it has just showed up. Or so I thought anyway.... We have put 10k miles on it now.... Worth getting an alignment anyway? It's got 115k on it and probably hasn't been done.

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350TacoZilla 05-28-2018 09:05 PM

If you have personally never had it aligned then yeah it is definitely worth it in my mind, I thought you had it aligned after doing the rv conversion. Its a good idea to have one done any time you drastically change the normal "empty" weight on a truck since it can either load or unload the front causing small change in caster since it is now going to be running at that weight 99% of the time rather than an empty box truck.

Java 05-28-2018 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 43892816)
If you have personally never had it aligned then yeah it is definitely worth it in my mind, I thought you had it aligned after doing the rv conversion. Its a good idea to have one done any time you drastically change the normal "empty" weight on a truck since it can either load or unload the front causing small change in caster since it is now going to be running at that weight 99% of the time rather than an empty box truck.

Nope, have not done one. Maybe worth doing after the front suspension goes in. But I don't want to kill off the tires sooner than I need to. Suspension is a couple weeks off most likely, but it's 1.5" taller in the front.

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Java 05-29-2018 09:58 AM

Very nice weekend relaxing in the truck. Just in a CG, but it was nice none the less.


Set up our glamp site. Grabbed an aluminum "screen/shade" thing, works pretty slick for keeping the temps down.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/874/4...4e2d6a10_b.jpg


Did lots of cooking in the Dutch Oven. Biscuits, pizza's, Cake.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/886/2...2aaab0f8_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/...4210fb57_b.jpg


Spotted this fire flare up, headed over in the boat and got to watch the helicopter dip the bucket over and over, it looked like they saved all the houses though! Probably started at the road, luckily there was not much fuel.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1737/...4525b205_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1735/...a0022f3c_b.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/898/4...d1c0cc1a_b.jpg


And my solar panel took a crap, one cell seems to have shorted out.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/881/4...3a427801_b.jpg

Java 05-29-2018 08:25 PM

Jacked up the front, everything feels tight, bearings spin nicely and have no play.

Measured toe with a tape measure. It's pretty damn close. Within a 1/16" and that's probably tape error....

I did up the pressure a couple Trips back. It's at 80psi, that's from the Toyo load chart and my axle weights.

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Java 06-04-2018 11:38 AM

Another fun weekend spent climbing!

Pretty spot, but zero shade at all. Truck stays cool for awhile, good insulation is nice!
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1741/...a2e5e887_b.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1722/...3772263e_b.jpg

Snuck some routes in after dinner Friday. Its nice to climb in the early morning and evening, mid day is WAY to hot for me. Im a PNW boy, over 75 and I melt.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1722/...72438c31_b.jpg

Nice evening walk (on the edge of a cliff )
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/...917eee24_b.jpg

Peaceful at night
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1752/...a5a4f754_b.jpg

Up at 5:30am for some climbing before the sun bakes us!
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1727/...c6ef137c_b.jpg

This was a fun route to lead, 10 clips, not as tall as the other one, but its a 5.9 with a couple tough spots, and the crack to the left can be climbed once the ancor is set, its a 5.10a. That was fun too, but a good workout. They are however right next to "Air Guitar" the route which Goran Kropp died on in 2002. A bit of a sobering reminder.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1724/...164da965_b.jpg

Wife tired to pull a superman. (yes she held on)
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1753/...8ed02bee_b.jpg

From the top of the next tower over. Pretty easy 5.8 with one tough spot.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1750/...338df4c3_b.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1752/...3f886371_b.jpg

Java 06-04-2018 11:39 AM

Back to the truck for a mid day nap, being able to open the back door onto the bed is awesome, so much air movement that way.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1749/...7d9076ba_b.jpg

My bed was the popular spot....
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1733/...00766fc2_b.jpg

Then off to the other side of the canyon once the sun was setting. This is "The Feathers" much shorter walls, but also only a couple minute walk from the truck.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/...77ce9dfe_b.jpg

A couple nice guys let me top rope this one, I fell trying to lead it last time, and didn't really want to try again at the moment. Its a 5.10c and overhangs the whole way. OK for top ropeing, not wanting to lead that yet....
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1738/...bfa90a38_b.jpg

Then we moved over to the other side and my lovely wife lead this one. Ran it a few times and just barely cleaned up the anchor before it got really dark.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1743/...8ac16768_b.jpg

Crashed out early, and got up at 5:30 again. This was the target for the morning. Agatha rock.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1735/...efd4f24f_b.jpg

Not a terrible way to start the day.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1750/...e37bfa80_b.jpg

"My hand are sore"
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1753/...0a024d6f_b.jpg

Java 06-04-2018 11:39 AM

And a friendly reminder that Mohoo folding 100w solar panels suck.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1738/...275089b1_b.jpg

Java 06-06-2018 09:19 AM

Actual truck work now!

My Kelderman air bag front coil replacements came in. Nice pieces of work.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1738/...4957dfda_b.jpg

Jack truck up. I had to dig level spots for my plywood jack stand bases.... Truck is so heavy they wanted to tip if it was* not dead flat. I was surprised by the lack of frame movement though. The dirvers side is completely on the ground here.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1752/...6e8362c3_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1721/...6d5ee14e_b.jpg



Ready for work, was not bad with two jacks to be able to raise and lower the axle as needed.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1735/...75d07c9d_b.jpg

Before:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1728/...f87e6162_b.jpg



Old stuff out

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1741/...b360dc8e_b.jpg

Had to drill two holes in each of the upper springs mounts to hold the new mount in place.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1728/...e59ba374_b.jpg



Everything bolted in! Air line runs up into the engine bay on both sides.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...502c6834_b.jpg



Discard pile.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1755/...1a5aac4d_b.jpg



Rusty lugs got a coat of paint while they were off. Not sure I like it, did black (thats primer) and they kind of stand out now.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1750/...3d3198e6_b.jpg

Java 06-06-2018 09:19 AM

Sitting on its own weight! ~90psi in the bags, they are a little tall (8.5" between mounts, spec is 7.5-8.5) but it may settle a bit, need to drive it and adjust.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1740/...04551d98_b.jpg

It was late.... No good pics....

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1756/...e85d5c27_b.jpg



Now in the tire wear/alignment issue. It looks like my axle is offset to the drivers side almost 1". That is just quick and dirty tape measure work, but measuring from the frame to the tire ribs both sides gives me that. And the air bag is only a finger or so from the frame on the passenger side, and has at least an inch on the drivers side..... odd.

Cant wait to test drive it this evening!

GLTHFJ60 06-06-2018 09:47 AM

Interesting. What's the advantage of airbags up front if you don't have airbags in the back?

I've read that F350 adjustable panhard rods fit on F450/F550s. That would help get your axle centered depending where your lift height will be.

Java 06-06-2018 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLTHFJ60 (Post 43907826)
Interesting. What's the advantage of airbags up front if you don't have airbags in the back?

I've read that F350 adjustable panhard rods fit on F450/F550s. That would help get your axle centered depending where your lift height will be.

Adjustable spring rate, and is supposed to ride much better than the OE coils. I reallly want to go drive it, but I am stuck at work..... But its nice if I add a bumper winch etc to be able to adjust spring rates on the fly for it.

1.5" leveling kit is what this is. I didn't think about the panhard pulling it over. Need to drive and get it settled in and see. A f350 shares the frame, but different front axle. I am sure I could fab one if needed. I did not even think about that being why it could be offset. Simple things sometimes.

GLTHFJ60 06-06-2018 11:04 AM

I know that the front axle is different, I have a F550. I've read that despite the differences, a F350 adjustable panhard will work. Let me see if I can find the thread on powerstroke.org

EDIT: Wasn't that hard to find! http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/whe...onversion.html

From that thread; "Icon adjustable track bar for a F-350 from Truck Toyz Perfromance, these guys were super helpful, highly recommend them. Icon said it wouldn't fit but it definitely does."

Java 06-06-2018 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLTHFJ60 (Post 43908034)
I know that the front axle is different, I have a F550. I've read that despite the differences, a F350 adjustable panhard will work. Let me see if I can find the thread on powerstroke.org

EDIT: Wasn't that hard to find! F-550 4x4 22.5 Conversion - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

From that thread; "Icon adjustable track bar for a F-350 from Truck Toyz Perfromance, these guys were super helpful, highly recommend them. Icon said it wouldn't fit but it definitely does."

Very cool thanks, I would not have thought it would be the same, but I guess Ford parts bin shopping makes sense.

However that thread makes me think those semi adapters are sketch. He had to grind half the lip of each stud off! :confused:

v6toy4x 06-06-2018 03:53 PM

I love doing mods to my camper every bit as much as any of the toys, air on the front if plumbed individual can be a nice assist in leveling at times.

I have fifth wheel jacks on a 3 point system so for the rear I drop the jack on the low side and then dump the rear bags until level then drop the other jack snug em up and you are level side to side, then raise or lower the front which you could do with the bags. Just more options.

I will have it some day but you beat me to it!
I think kedleman has a rear kit:smokin:

Java 06-06-2018 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v6toy4x (Post 43908588)
I love doing mods to my camper every bit as much as any of the toys, air on the front if plumbed individual can be a nice assist in leveling at times.

I have fifth wheel jacks on a 3 point system so for the rear I drop the jack on the low side and then dump the rear bags until level then drop the other jack snug em up and you are level side to side, then raise or lower the front which you could do with the bags. Just more options.

I will have it some day but you beat me to it!
I think kedleman has a rear kit:smokin:

Yeah I may do a controller at some point, but even very basic ones add a fair bit of cost.

Kelderman does do a 4 link rear with bags.... I decided on springs. Atlas is making me some.

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350TacoZilla 06-06-2018 04:33 PM

While I think airbag rear setup isnt a bad idea if you have the cash it wouldn't really be as big of a benefit to you as a guy that just puts a slide in camper in bed of his work truck every once in a blue moon. Your truck is going to be around the same weight all the time so a well tuned leaf setup should ride nice and handle that weight, its when you take a normal truck and vary the weight of it here and there that the adjustable suspension makes more sense to me.

Looks good on new suspension and I would say once you get the pressure you like in the bags dialed look into the track bar and then alignment after all else is done. I would say maybe even wait till rear suspension is done since you are already planning on it and if the rear picks up a bit it will change front geometry a tiny amount so might as well get it as accurate as possible.

Java 06-06-2018 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 43908632)
While I think airbag rear setup isnt a bad idea if you have the cash it wouldn't really be as big of a benefit to you as a guy that just puts a slide in camper in bed of his work truck every once in a blue moon. Your truck is going to be around the same weight all the time so a well tuned leaf setup should ride nice and handle that weight, its when you take a normal truck and vary the weight of it here and there that the adjustable suspension makes more sense to me.

Looks good on new suspension and I would say once you get the pressure you like in the bags dialed look into the track bar and then alignment after all else is done. I would say maybe even wait till rear suspension is done since you are already planning on it and if the rear picks up a bit it will change front geometry a tiny amount so might as well get it as accurate as possible.

Yeah the fixed load made me just stick with leaves. I have an alignment appointment tomorrow already. Bags are set to 8" tall which equaled 73psi both sides!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ff2a7e4d67.jpg

Java 06-07-2018 04:52 PM

Well I didn't fit on their alignment rack.... Grrrr

But the front end being over the pit was handy. Bushing and rod ends all are tight.

But.... I think I found my mystery clunk. That's a lot of backlash....

[MEDIA=youtube]EhiA8QVbP2Y[/MEDIA]

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Java 06-07-2018 09:55 PM

OK Talked to a couple gear shops, I may just be over reacting.... Its only rotational, no side to side or in out play in the pinion.

Drained the oil just to double check and look for shiny chunks....

Magnet. not bad. mostly just sludge stuck to it

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1724/...876ee49a_b.jpg



Magnet stuff wiped onto a piece of white paper.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...828d1574_b.jpg



Broke out the endoscope, teeth look good.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1754/...3205abc0_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1754/...3e85860a_b.jpg



Magnet swirling in the oil. Neodymium ones, really strong.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1737/...4114c45f_b.jpg



Not a thing on them.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1731/...f637b112_b.jpg



Oil looked fresh, didn't smell that bad at all, and no flakes in it. I feel a bit better.

christyle 06-08-2018 09:27 AM

How'd it ride on the bags?

Java 06-08-2018 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christyle (Post 43911294)
How'd it ride on the bags?

Honestly not a huge change, but I think a lot of that is the rear translating thru, and me being front axle heavy anyway. I hit a set of speed bumps at 20mph, and it didn't hurt :D The spring rate definitely feels softer, more body roll for sure. The impact is not as sharp though.

Cant wait to get the rear done so I can really tell, just a couple more months of waiting..... :(

ennored 06-08-2018 09:34 AM

Backlash
 
On my S135 axle, there is no pinion depth adjustment. Best pattern leads to quite a bit of backlash (and noise). I think you have an S110, it may be the same in that respect?

Java 06-08-2018 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ennored (Post 43911328)
On my S135 axle, there is no pinion depth adjustment. Best pattern leads to quite a bit of backlash (and noise). I think you have an S110, it may be the same in that respect?

Thanks for the input! The S130 and 110 are very similar from my reading. That may be the case, The teeth looked good from what I could tell, and no shiny oil. I don't get any noise, just a clunk on start/throttle.

christyle 06-08-2018 10:14 AM

Are the airbags separate, or linked together? Meaning if you load the left, does all the air push over to the right? I know some instructions for rear bags say to tie them together, but it leads to more roll for the reason i mentioned above.

Java 06-08-2018 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christyle (Post 43911454)
Are the airbags separate, or linked together? Meaning if you load the left, does all the air push over to the right? I know some instructions for rear bags say to tie them together, but it leads to more roll for the reason i mentioned above.

Nope they are separated. I never liked the idea of tying them together, yes it makes filling easier but it's also induces body roll. My rears are separate also

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christyle 06-08-2018 10:44 AM

Seeing the rest of what you've done, I figured as much, just making sure :smokin:

Java 06-08-2018 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christyle (Post 43911536)
Seeing the rest of what you've done, I figured as much, just making sure :smokin:

Ha thanks! I just need remote fill and dump now :D

This went on last night, hopefully that will help body roll a bit. 1.5" solid rear bar.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1756/...2009b51c_b.jpg

Java 06-12-2018 04:52 PM

Alignment done. The before numbers were pretty good. Toe was just at max spec on one side, but that was it.....
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c2ae599fe1.jpg

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Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Java 06-18-2018 11:31 AM

Another fun weekend out in the rocks!

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1828/...37d5c629_b.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/895/4...f2df78fa_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1763/...87458994_b.jpg

This is a 5.9 route, lots of blots, but a couple tricky spots. The crack to the left is a 5.10a, tough one for me, cant quite get hand jambs in it.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1743/...3414778d_b.jpg

Made an awesome dutch oven apple rhubarb pie too :D
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1754/...d0bd6e13_b.jpg


Update on the Kelderman, I have ~400 miles on it now. And they are aired up to 8" bag height per the instructions. Range is 7.5-8.5, so I could drop a little pressure and try that. Its not a mind blowing change. A bit less harsh on sharp bumps, but it still rides like a heavy ass truck. I think that may be partly due to my heavy front axle weight, the OE springs may have been softened (or rode softer due to the weight). I did get some much needed front lift, and up travel was increased by nearly double, which should be much better on the big bumps. But at the moment its hard to tell with the stiff rear end. Sway bar did well bringing the truck back to feeling like it did originally cornering wise. The back end seemed to "flop" side to side less as well on the off road sections. Need an adjustable track bar to get the passenger side bag away from the frame. It does not appear to have touched at all, but there is only 1/2" or so of clearance, I'd like a bit more. Any suggestions are welcome.

Drives great on the highway still! Gets 10mpg no matter what it seems, cruise gets set to 68mph as that is 2250rpms, much more just seems like it would eat gas badly. Climbs grades at 66mph, 30psi of boost and right around 1000 degree EGT's

MJDoppler 06-20-2018 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43926106)
Drives great on the highway still! Gets 10mpg no matter what it seems, cruise gets set to 68mph as that is 2250rpms, much more just seems like it would eat gas badly. Climbs grades at 66mph, 30psi of boost and right around 1000 degree EGT's

AC still suck?

Java 06-20-2018 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJDoppler (Post 43929374)
AC still suck?

NOPE! :D Its really good actually, like I have to turn it off every few mins as it gets too cold.... Have not checked pressures, an I am not sure I really are enough to pull the air box to check. It was only ~85 outside though. Either way its good enough for now!

ben2go 06-20-2018 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43929406)
NOPE! :D Its really good actually, like I have to turn it off every few mins as it gets too cold.... Have not checked pressures, an I am not sure I really are enough to pull the air box to check. It was only ~85 outside though. Either way its good enough for now!

I like a good AC system that gives me an ice cream headache. :laughing:

Java 06-20-2018 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 43929410)
I like a good AC system that gives me an ice cream headache. :laughing:

More frozen toes when driving in flip flops :grinpimp:

ben2go 06-20-2018 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43929418)
More frozen toes when driving in flip flops :grinpimp:

:D That is an experience I will never have.

Java 06-20-2018 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 43929424)
:D That is an experience I will never have.

I live in my flip Flops whenever possible! The best shoe.


Anyone have track bar suggestions?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Java 07-03-2018 09:54 AM

A GREAT weekend.

Washington has some pretty great areas.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1827/...1997ef9d_b.jpg

A bit of climbing on Saturday morning. A quick multi pitch is a great way to start the day! Got on the wall at 6:30am. Its get hot when the sun comes out....
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1807/...d3061690_b.jpg

Stopped by the NW Overland Rally for a night. Its getting big.... My good friends with Three amigos Offroad let me sneak in behind their camp area. Great to see friends we dont see often, but its a bit crazy.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/915/4...88a46b3a_b.jpg


https://farm1.staticflickr.com/926/4...86a64b1d_b.jpg

https://flic.kr/p/27pmhFa


Headed out of the rally Sunday am and drove up to Mazama, did a few routes and headed off a little early to make sure we could find a camp site, it was busy!

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/924/4...b9d75b7a_b.jpg

Nice spot near a creek, road getting there was interesting, I think I dragged belly a couple times.... No issues though.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/845/4...c749ba9a_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/920/2...54c4de46_b.jpg

It was my lovely wife's birthday, so we BBQ'ed some lobsters. They were good!
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/921/4...1b1d6c44_b.jpg

Not bad if I do say so myself :D
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1826/...f7338f41_b.jpg

Java 07-03-2018 09:54 AM

Monday was a bit rainy, but we hiked out across the Ross Lake damn, kind of a neat hike
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1786/...b4a53704_b.jpg

Kid wanted them to open the spillways
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/846/4...31a50b4e_b.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1805/...55d59759_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/842/4...53802306_b.jpg

Then we jetted back home! Having to work sucks!

Java 07-09-2018 10:12 AM

Lots of trips have been packed in! Kids of to summer camp so the adults get to do things she would not appreciate being dragged on. So first up was Pinto rock, 400ft of climbing, base of the rock is at 5123ft, pretty damn fun. Easy climbing, but out first long ish multi pitch.

Water bars for MILES. Ugh, but good lights really help.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1781/...c8b2b42c_b.jpg

Camp for the night.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/LH93Lf]https://farm1.staticflickr.com/913/2...d5913684_b.jpg

Not a terrible spot to wake up.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/847/2...befe293b_b.jpg

The goal.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1829/...1ff3a288_b.jpg

Almost to the top, truck looks tiny :)
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1789/...01d74fd7_b.jpg

At the top!
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/833/2...2df047cd_b.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1829/...9cd6c1fa_b.jpg

This neighboring one looks fun too. Half way down the rap off the back side.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1829/...c4f32ee6_b.jpg

Then back to the truck and drive home in time for the family 4th party.

Java 07-16-2018 01:00 PM

OK guys need wheel input again.....

Came across these "inner" dualies for the fancy 20" things guys run. I dont see any reason I could not run them at all positions, am I crazy?

20x8.25 ET 114 (4.5" from CL to WMS)

Stock is 19.5x6 with a 5 3/8" offset (CL to WMS)

My math (and assuming all the googled specs are correct) that puts my front inside rim edge ~1/8" in from the stock wheel location.

Thoughts?

These are the wheels https://www.ebay.com/itm/20-x8-3-Fue....c100005.m1851

DE Jeeper 07-16-2018 08:11 PM

U want to pay $680 a rim? Also what r u gonna run for a tire, arent the tires in the 20" lower weight ratings? Not sure what u gain but i cant remember all the details on why u r looking to swap rims.

Java 07-16-2018 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DE Jeeper (Post 43972248)
U want to pay $680 a rim? Also what r u gonna run for a tire, arent the tires in the 20" lower weight ratings? Not sure what u gain but i cant remember all the details on why u r looking to swap rims.

Just a random link I grabbed, they are $215 each. For that I hope they are custom titanium! LOL

Running them as dualies still, the offset is not good as a single unless I want really weird track width differences front to rear.

I can get 20" LT Tires in an AT or MT tread rated to right around 4k each. Much more tread options than the 19.5's and some much needed sidewall flex. The rear tires I have now are just about as aggressive as you can get for a 19.5. Id like a 35-7" tire to drop some RPM's too. My only other real option is a 245/70r19.5 on my current wheels, but that not much taller than I have now (225) and still a stiff ass steel tire.



Much room for activities. This is measuring from a straight edge on the face of the wheel, back 10". IIRC the wheel is 3/4" thick or so there, and the new ones I am looking at have 9.16" of backspacing. Should be fine.....

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1768/...8bcaf1f6_b.jpg

rear clearance
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1806/...abe43ccf_b.jpg

front clearance, have ~1" to the steering bits there
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/840/2...890fd252_b.jpg

Java 07-17-2018 09:24 PM

No official word from Fuel (I emailed for specs) but everything I can find says 2500lb load rating on those wheels.

Back to the drawing board.....

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bigun 07-18-2018 11:21 AM

:eek: People who climb rocks for fun be crazy! :flipoff2:

Java 07-18-2018 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigun (Post 43974822)
:eek: People who climb rocks for fun be crazy! :flipoff2:

I'm ok with crazy :grinpimp:

Java 07-19-2018 08:34 AM

Finally got good info on the Fuel wheels, 3000lb front rating, 2500lb rear. So I am just over the rating in the front :( something about the hub lip engagement is what they said changed the ratings front to rear.

Java 07-23-2018 08:36 AM

Question for all the bigger camper/truck guys. What's your track width and does it match front to rear?

I'm running into issues with either having to space the front end way out to match the rear or tuck the rear tires way in.

IMO matching is ideal, the sand/snow etc is packed by the front wheels and the rear follows in the tracks, but is it as big of a deal as I am thinking?

87manche 07-23-2018 11:53 AM

I wouldn't wory about it.

track width is often not the same front/rear.

Java 07-23-2018 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87manche (Post 43983140)
I wouldn't wory about it.

track width is often not the same front/rear.

True, but usually the front is wider. Im looking at ~2.5" wider per side in the rear.

87manche 07-23-2018 01:00 PM

turning radius may suffer a bit.
but that seems like normal wide ass box truck stuff.

Java 07-23-2018 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87manche (Post 43983314)
turning radius may suffer a bit.
but that seems like normal wide ass box truck stuff.

Yeah, but rear outside width is about the same as the outer dual now. But the wheel CL does move out a bit. This thing really turns pretty well. Usually only take a 5 point turn on a normal FS road to get turned around :pimpgrin:

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87manche 07-23-2018 01:20 PM

well my experience was with a 33 ft long box truck to RV conversion.

forest roads weren't an option.
hell, some highways weren't an option.

Java 07-23-2018 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87manche (Post 43983368)
well my experience was with a 33 ft long box truck to RV conversion.

forest roads weren't an option.
hell, some highways weren't an option.

Well I am only 26', and I may not be the smartest guy..... :D

Java 07-24-2018 12:45 PM

Oh yes..... Made in the US springs, matched to my axle weight, custom made by Atlas Spring!


https://farm1.staticflickr.com/855/2...d037775a_b.jpg

sb406 07-24-2018 12:59 PM

:smokin:

ky scrambled 07-24-2018 01:16 PM

needs more leaves...

Java 07-24-2018 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ky scrambled (Post 43985598)
needs more leaves...

:flipoff2: Its already a couple more than OE....

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/942/4...cfc37152_b.jpg

Question:

Ditch the OE overload? It has a spacer between it and the main pack, and also a curved "top spacer" so the U bolts are rounded on the top. Thoughts? I will need new U bolts unless I ditch all that and try to use the rounded thing.
(and may still need new ones.)

87manche 07-24-2018 02:02 PM

I would leave it if it didn't interfere with anything else. at the very least it will keep your fancy new springs from fatiguing if you really bottom it out hard. Do you have any other bumpstops?

oftherise I'd ditch it and just use the top ubolt specific bit.

Java 07-24-2018 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87manche (Post 43985688)
I would leave it if it didn't interfere with anything else. at the very least it will keep your fancy new springs from fatiguing if you really bottom it out hard. Do you have any other bumpstops?

oftherise I'd ditch it and just use the top ubolt specific bit.


There is a bump stop built into the spring perch. I was thinking of leaving it too.... Need to get some new bolts made. And some taller jack stands!

87manche 07-24-2018 02:11 PM

well then maybe I'd just ditch it so it wouldn't compromise the ride.

You might need to modify your bumpstop to be a bit taller so they can't overtravel and flatten the main leaf.

Java 07-24-2018 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87manche (Post 43985712)
well then maybe I'd just ditch it so it wouldn't compromise the ride.

You might need to modify your bumpstop to be a bit taller so they can't overtravel and flatten the main leaf.

Not a bad idea. I will look at them when I am under there.

bigun 07-24-2018 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 43974848)
I'm ok with crazy :grinpimp:

When I was a kid I thought it would be cool to do. Now that I am older and have a better understanding about gravity I know better! LOL

Java 07-24-2018 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigun (Post 43986012)
When I was a kid I thought it would be cool to do. Now that I am older and have a better understanding about gravity I know better! LOL

It's only 32m/s :D

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Java 07-30-2018 11:52 AM

Foot powered weekend, and took the 4runner.... But this is kind of an "adventure/build" thread at this point anyway.

Hiked the Enchantments as we couldn't get a permit to spend a night. Makes for a long day. 21 miles, 6500vertical. Aasgard pass was brutal, 1 mile and almost 3000 vertical, climbing up a rockfall, walking on scree or blocks.... But it was fun none the less, left the truck at 4:55 am, got back a 9:15pm, took a 3 ish hour nap and swim in the middle.

Beautiful scenery, alpine and granite slabs make up most of the area.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/856/2...d0d6dc46_b.jpg

Colchuck Lake with the pass in the background.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/933/4...28190e7d_b.jpg

About half way up the pass
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/858/2...17c60ff1_b.jpg

Looking down to Colchuck from the top.... Whew. (little did I realize down is WAY worse than up)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/855/4...fa148e0e_b.jpg

A few more from the core.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/936/4...1ec76652_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/852/4...e076853f_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/855/4...962970cf_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/855/4...c49da307_b.jpg

sb406 08-02-2018 01:33 PM

On the springs I vote no overload, since the packs were custom made to match your weights. Over here in the Northeast we do new U-bolts every time.... Corrosion factor is high.:laughing:

Java 08-02-2018 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sb406 (Post 44001404)
On the springs I vote no overload, since the packs were custom made to match your weights. Over here in the Northeast we do new U-bolts every time.... Corrosion factor is high.:laughing:

That's my vote too , it's at the shop, but needed parts.... Won't be done today

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Java 08-02-2018 04:00 PM

Shop called. Springs at 10" too short. Fuck me.

christyle 08-02-2018 04:04 PM

Wait....what?!

Java 08-02-2018 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christyle (Post 44001704)
Wait....what?!

Yep... Closer look at the tag that came on them says F150... That matches the spring length. My order says 450... Sales guy is out of the office today.

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v6toy4x 08-02-2018 08:35 PM

Bummer,

Say hello to Murphy for me!!

Java 08-03-2018 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v6toy4x (Post 44002110)
Bummer,

Say hello to Murphy for me!!

He can fuck the hell right off!! :flipoff2:

GLTHFJ60 08-03-2018 08:45 AM

Shoulda checked before bringing the custom springs to the shop to be installed. Yeah yeah "why would I, I ordered for my truck, it should have been right", well it's custom, that's why.

Java 08-03-2018 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLTHFJ60 (Post 44002796)
Shoulda checked before bringing the custom springs to the shop to be installed. Yeah yeah "why would I, I ordered for my truck, it should have been right", well it's custom, that's why.

And they say hindsight is 20/20..... :mad3: Maybe I should have checked, but measuring eye length on the truck is not a trivial task either. I didn't' even think about it.

Atlas is supposed to get a new set shipped early next week. OE springs are going back on.... Need to use the truck this afternoon.

enormiss 08-03-2018 02:40 PM

Don't remember what the spec's for weight capacity were but would think that and F150 should have raised an eyebrow to the guy building them.

Java 08-03-2018 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by enormiss (Post 44003608)
Don't remember what the spec's for weight capacity were but would think that and F150 should have raised an eyebrow to the guy building them.

Yeah, who knows what's happened.

Atlas Spring is making it right, I should have a new set in a week or so.

Anyone need some F150 springs? :D

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Java 08-09-2018 11:54 AM

Not a bad spot at all.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/860/4...f2734955_b.jpg

Serious long wheel base problems.... Dragged the tank and steps a bit....
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1837/...7a325a76_b.jpg

Java 08-09-2018 11:55 AM

Not a bad spot at all.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/860/4...f2734955_b.jpg

Serious long wheel base problems.... Dragged the tank and steps a bit....
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1837/...7a325a76_b.jpg

Java 08-23-2018 04:23 PM

Springs V2.0 arrived. They are the right length, but.... They are pretty different. No extra wrap on the leading end, and one less leaf? Thoughts?

New:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1835/...c8a18ba8_b.jpg

Old:
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/855/2...d037775a_b.jpg

christyle 08-23-2018 05:18 PM

Was that something you discussed in the ordering process or did you just give some numbers and say make me some springs? I'm no leaf expert, but.... Were you thinking the mil wrap just won't do much in the shackle end, or were you thinking both sides would have a mil wrap? It does seem odd to have the wrap on the back of the spring, ya. Seems flat, but i dont imagine these things have much for arch.

Java 08-23-2018 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christyle (Post 44036110)
Was that something you discussed in the ordering process or did you just give some numbers and say make me some springs? I'm no leaf expert, but.... Were you thinking the mil wrap just won't do much in the shackle end, or were you thinking both sides would have a mil wrap? It does seem odd to have the wrap on the back of the spring, ya. Seems flat, but i dont imagine these things have much for arch.

Just talked about the truck, said I wanted a softer more progressive spring, and gave axle weights. They accidently made F150 springs the first time, but I would have expected the same type of construction... Only difference is the 150 springs are not equal length either side of center and thr 450's are. Maybe they are just that different between the way they do a 150 vs 450?

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christyle 08-23-2018 05:29 PM

I was looking at the wrong pic when i typed that, i was looking at the 150 springs. Somewhat odd that these didnt have the mil wrap, ya. I dont think ive ever seen a big truck with a mil wrap, or any factory car really, maybe because theyre too heavy to matter? haha

Java 08-23-2018 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christyle (Post 44036126)
I was looking at the wrong pic when i typed that, i was looking at the 150 springs. Somewhat odd that these didnt have the mil wrap, ya. I dont think ive ever seen a big truck with a mil wrap, or any factory car really, maybe because theyre too heavy to matter? haha

Springs were built to the same weight spec?

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christyle 08-23-2018 06:46 PM

What i'm saying is I see mil wrap on aftermarket off road springs a lot, but not factory applications for much, although I'm sure i'm wrong. That doesnt explain why your first set had them and this set doesnt, just a comment really. Maybe you just got someone else's order on the first ones, and it was something requested by the original person. They got a few things wrong it seems, i'm not sure if i'd put much out of the realm of possibility with them, including having fucked up a second time.

Java 08-23-2018 09:04 PM

My name was on the first set, I think 150 vs 450 just got missed....

My concern is they just cheaped out on the second set since they were paying for them (warranty as they send the 150vs first)

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Java 08-27-2018 02:10 PM

Tires are on the short list. Snow is about a month away! Looking at just getting some fronts for the time being. Likely the Milestar BD733. Any reason I should worry that they are different enough size from the rears to cause issues in 4x4?

350TacoZilla 08-27-2018 02:35 PM

By different size you just mean the difference between new and used right? If so then no it shouldn't matter since your only going to be running 4x4 in when needed and not dry pavement. If you mean you are thinking of ordering a different size for up front like a 245 vs 225 than yes that will cause an issue unless you only use 4x4 on really loose or slick surface for short distance to get out of parking spot or something.

Java 08-27-2018 02:36 PM

No no same size, just different tire and mfg and wear. Looking at just replacing the front 225's with a traction tire.

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carslut 08-27-2018 04:26 PM

wow, what a mess. sorry i for suggesting them. hope you get things corrected soon

Java 08-27-2018 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carslut (Post 44042146)
wow, what a mess. sorry i for suggesting them. hope you get things corrected soon

I have my new set of Springs from them already. So I hope they are correct, it's one less leaf so I'm a little confused, but I won't know until I get them installed.....

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Java 08-28-2018 08:17 AM

Prepping for spray foam under the floor. Sprayed down with simple green, sprinkler and hosed it off and started masking.

Masking under there sucks ass!!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c1ced31e49.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...07bb359785.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9e6efd3f76.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e9c0840404.jpg

And just because the PNW is awesome, we did a little hike to Camp Muir on Mt Rainier

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1879/...56fc6a01_b.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1852/...fb31c97b_b.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1887/...61d9dab7_b.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1887/...f4bf90ae_b.jpg

sb406 08-28-2018 08:41 AM

Awesome pics. What are you using for spray foam?

Java 08-28-2018 08:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sb406 (Post 44043266)
Awesome pics. What are you using for spray foam?

One of the DIY polyiso kits. A co worker had some left over from a project, so I got it for free, just needed to buy a new spray gun for it. Supposed to be warm enough today to spray it.... Wish me luck!

bigun 08-28-2018 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 44043206)
Prepping for spray foam under the floor. Sprayed down with simple green, sprinkler and hosed it off and started masking.

Masking under there sucks ass!!

Makes you wish you had a grease pit! :D

Java 08-28-2018 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigun (Post 44043270)
Makes you wish you had a grease pit! :D

No kidding! I was kicking myself for not buying some 2x12's and making a couple ramps.... I had an idea last night though.... Fill the airbags to max! That should get me a couple more inches.

bigun 08-28-2018 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 44043280)
No kidding! I was kicking myself for not buying some 2x12's and making a couple ramps.... I had an idea last night though.... Fill the airbags to max! That should get me a couple more inches.

Hind sight is always 20/20! :flipoff2:

Java 08-28-2018 06:00 PM

Well it's not pretty, but there is some insulation on there. What a mess.... Glad I farmed out the big project of foam. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6cc40dd7e6.jpg

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Java 08-31-2018 08:28 AM

OK guys opinion time.... Its Fall, I need to figure tires out.

Singles are not in the budget at the moment. So options are Spend good $$ on Toyo M608's to match the rear for the fonts. (~$832)

Buy cheap Chinese tires for the fronts. (~$382)

Or step up to Chinese 245's all around. (~$1350)


So opinions, is the step up to a 245 worth it? 1" taller, 3.4% larger rolling diameter is not going to drop much highway RPM's, 1.5" wider may give slightly more traction (and more wander in the snow/slush?)

Tires for reference for anyone who cares....

Toyo
https://d2gvvn2873sxv5.cloudfront.ne...347_new/23.jpg


Milestar Tire
https://d2gvvn2873sxv5.cloudfront.ne...y/12218/_5.jpg

v6toy4x 08-31-2018 12:10 PM

My fronts are 2:1 with the rears if i don't rotate, which my lazy ass doesn't.

So I would do the TOYOS to match if the rears will last another set of fronts. Then I may consider the Chinese knock offs all the way around, hell they make everything else we use.

Did I miss it, are the new rear springs in?

Java 08-31-2018 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v6toy4x (Post 44049776)
My fronts are 2:1 with the rears if i don't rotate, which my lazy ass doesn't.

So I would do the TOYOS to match if the rears will last another set of fronts. Then I may consider the Chinese knock offs all the way around, hell they make everything else we use.

Did I miss it, are the new rear springs in?

I am seeing thr fronts dissappear rapidly too....

Springs are sitting in my office. Have had exactly zero time to deal with getting the truck to the shop for install.

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v6toy4x 08-31-2018 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 44049780)
Have had exactly zero time to deal with getting the truck to the shop for install.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

If that aint the truth it is either plenty of time and no money or plenty of money and no time.

nhnissan 08-31-2018 08:28 PM

How about a good set of chains for snow traction and a selectable locker up front?

Java 08-31-2018 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhnissan (Post 44050444)
How about a good set of chains for snow traction and a selectable locker up front?

I've got chains, I will be buying another set of the front..... I used them on the front last year. I've got LSD in the rear, nothing in the front.... But ok hoping that traction tires are much better than ribs.

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MarkObtinaro 09-02-2018 12:49 AM

My concern with aggressive tread designs would be the blocks squirming as you go down the road.

We never used any sort of traction tires on our little buses that had E-350/450 chassis or G3500/4500 chassis.

Any sort of traction tire made the buses real squirrels on the road. Since the laws required us to put iron on whenever the traction devices required sign got posted we just never saw the need to try and make any traction tire work on our little buses.

What I know about 4x4 trucks, suspensions, lifts, etc. I could write on a thumbnail with a crayon. But what I do know is that after many years and many thousands of miles of running buses with GVWR's of 12K-14K and routinely loading them that heavy traction tires just didn't work.

I wonder with your LSD rear axle and driven front axle how much you really need aggressive traction tires. Like us, whenever the traction devices required sign goes up you will need to be slapping on the iron on as well.

Java 09-02-2018 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarkObtinaro (Post 44052174)
My concern with aggressive tread designs would be the blocks squirming as you go down the road.

We never used any sort of traction tires on our little buses that had E-350/450 chassis or G3500/4500 chassis.

Any sort of traction tire made the buses real squirrels on the road. Since the laws required us to put iron on whenever the traction devices required sign got posted we just never saw the need to try and make any traction tire work on our little buses.

What I know about 4x4 trucks, suspensions, lifts, etc. I could write on a thumbnail with a crayon. But what I do know is that after many years and many thousands of miles of running buses with GVWR's of 12K-14K and routinely loading them that heavy traction tires just didn't work.

I wonder with your LSD rear axle and driven front axle how much you really need aggressive traction tires. Like us, whenever the traction devices required sign goes up you will need to be slapping on the iron on as well.

Tread squirm is a concern, but with the 19.5's I think they are pretty damn stiff. We're you running 16" tires on the busses?

I may not need them often, but I certainly needed more traction last year.... Not sure it would have changed the outcome really, it was super slick, but I would like to think they may have helped.

On the chains, they are not required on 4x4 vehicles in WA most of the time. I do have a full set now though.

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aczlan 09-02-2018 02:13 PM

We ran 19.5s with a very similar tread pattern on the F450 that we had the year I worked landscaping (2001ish? F450 Diesel, crew cab with a 10-12' dump box) and they were rock solid all summer, no sipes in the middle of the tread block though.

Aaron Z

MarkObtinaro 09-03-2018 08:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 44052382)
Tread squirm is a concern, but with the 19.5's I think they are pretty damn stiff. We're you running 16" tires on the busses?

I may not need them often, but I certainly needed more traction last year.... Not sure it would have changed the outcome really, it was super slick, but I would like to think they may have helped.

On the chains, they are not required on 4x4 vehicles in WA most of the time. I do have a full set now though.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

All of our E-350/450 and G3500/4500 buses had 16" tires.

We also had some tread squirm when we used very aggressive tread design traction tires on our breadbox buses that had the GM/Workhorse P-30 chassis with GVWR's up to 16,500.

You may not have as much tread squirm because we were running the 8x19.5 tires which are pretty skinny. With such skinny tires with really aggressive tread design you don't really have very much rubber in contact with the road at any one time.

But to be honest, even on our full size school buses and motorcoaches we were getting away from any sort of traction tire. Most of the time when the roads got slick school was closed and the school buses didn't go out. When the motorcoaches had to go out when the roads got slick we had to slap iron on them any way. For the 90% of the time when they didn't need the extra traction the added noise, the rougher ride, and the shorter life wasn't a good enough trade off for the extra traction we needed for the other 10% of the time.

I wouldn't think that as heavy as your rig is a traction tire is going to be all that more grippy unless you are going to be going through mud pits with all of the wheels spinning or through knee deep snow. And in either case I would be slapping iron on just to make sure I didn't lose traction.

MarkObtinaro 09-03-2018 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 44049282)
OK guys opinion time.... Its Fall, I need to figure tires out.

Singles are not in the budget at the moment. So options are Spend good $$ on Toyo M608's to match the rear for the fonts. (~$832)

Buy cheap Chinese tires for the fronts. (~$382)

Or step up to Chinese 245's all around. (~$1350)


So opinions, is the step up to a 245 worth it? 1" taller, 3.4% larger rolling diameter is not going to drop much highway RPM's, 1.5" wider may give slightly more traction (and more wander in the snow/slush?)

Tires for reference for anyone who cares....

Toyo
https://d2gvvn2873sxv5.cloudfront.ne...347_new/23.jpg


Milestar Tire
https://d2gvvn2873sxv5.cloudfront.ne...y/12218/_5.jpg

If my choices are for either one of these two tires I would go with the Milestar.

The closed shoulder is going to be much quieter than the open shoulder Toyo. I would also think that the closed shoulder is going to have less squirm than the open shoulder.

At the same time the open shoulder Toyo is probably going to clear out mud and snow better than the Milestar.

I think it also might be good to know how much weight each tire is rated to carry. I am a firm believer in it is always good to get as much weight carrying capacity as possible. Yes a 12 or 14 ply is going to ride harder than a 10 ply. But you are running a pretty heavy rig that is fairly tall. The stiffer the tire is the less squirm you will experience.

Java 09-03-2018 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarkObtinaro (Post 44053598)
If my choices are for either one of these two tires I would go with the Milestar.

The closed shoulder is going to be much quieter than the open shoulder Toyo. I would also think that the closed shoulder is going to have less squirm than the open shoulder.

At the same time the open shoulder Toyo is probably going to clear out mud and snow better than the Milestar.

I think it also might be good to know how much weight each tire is rated to carry. I am a firm believer in it is always good to get as much weight carrying capacity as possible. Yes a 12 or 14 ply is going to ride harder than a 10 ply. But you are running a pretty heavy rig that is fairly tall. The stiffer the tire is the less squirm you will experience.

They are both open shoulder I belive.

And they will be a 14ply in the 245 or a 12 ply in the 225. I am on 12plys now. They are stiff AF.... LOL

Knee deep snow is what I built this truck for! I hate chains, they have their place, but driving hundreds of miles in the snow every year makes me not want to have to run them all the time. A few miles here and there for the really bad places sure, but I don't want to do 5mph just with a little snow on the ground with chains on.

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Java 09-03-2018 12:38 PM

Here is the weird ass front tire wear. Drove thru a dusty spot on asphalt that really shows it... See the clean spots? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...13f9957622.jpg

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bdkw1 09-03-2018 02:24 PM

Looks like it's toed in.

Java 09-03-2018 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdkw1 (Post 44054184)
Looks like it's toed in.

Had it aligned after the air bag install. All at spec....

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87manche 09-03-2018 02:34 PM

are the front shocks and such new?

fact is that heavy trucks wear tires funny.

Java 09-03-2018 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87manche (Post 44054212)
are the front shocks and such new?

fact is that heavy trucks wear tires funny.

Bilstein 5100's I put on. (although they are F350 spec... But not sure how much that really Changes the valving)

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350TacoZilla 09-03-2018 05:28 PM

If your just trying to get through this winter before buying tires I'd buy a $80 heated groover off ebay and open up front tire tread a tiny bit. I have done this before without even pulling tire off truck, just turn wheels hard to one side and do what you can reach then move truck a bit and continue. Then obviously turn wheels other way and start again.

19.5's are regrooveable to full tread depth once anyhow but I would only go to the depth that the tread blocks currently are instead of trying to cut all new tread at this point. Maybe just open up every other spot on shoulders and inner tread blocks and let the center rib alone. Used to be places around (mainly semi truck tire shops) that would shave the tires to get them perfectly round but I dont think its common anymore.

Java 09-03-2018 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla (Post 44054552)
If your just trying to get through this winter before buying tires I'd buy a $80 heated groover off ebay and open up front tire tread a tiny bit. I have done this before without even pulling tire off truck, just turn wheels hard to one side and do what you can reach then move truck a bit and continue. Then obviously turn wheels other way and start again.

19.5's are regrooveable to full tread depth once anyhow but I would only go to the depth that the tread blocks currently are instead of trying to cut all new tread at this point. Maybe just open up every other spot on shoulders and inner tread blocks and let the center rib alone. Used to be places around (mainly semi truck tire shops) that would shave the tires to get them perfectly round but I dont think its common anymore.

Thought about that, but how badly could I get them out of balance :D

There are some 265's in CL cheap that are the same as my front tires....

But honestly it will likely be a few years in these tires.

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MarkObtinaro 09-04-2018 02:10 AM

I have no idea who makes this tire but the tread pattern is what we found to work really well on our buses.

I know it won't have the digging into the snow ability a more aggressive tread would have but it would more than make up for it in more miles, less road noise, and less squirm.

https://www.amazon.com/Roadlux-Posit...70r+19.5+tires

With a tire load rating of 133=4551 lbs and a speed rating M=81 MPH I think you would have more than enough tire to meet your needs.

Java 09-06-2018 12:23 PM

Remember those first set of springs that did not fit? Well I finally was able to get time off work to take the truck to the shop for install this morning, and guess what. Springs #2 DON'T FUCKING FIT.

Bushings are wrong, bolt sleeve is too small, OD is different from OE so I cant press in the old (or new OE) ones.... Fuck me.

pennsylvaniaboy 09-06-2018 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Java (Post 44060754)
Remember those first set of springs that did not fit? Well I finally was able to get time off work to take the truck to the shop for install this morning, and guess what. Springs #2 DON'T FUCKING FIT.

Bushings are wrong, bolt sleeve is too small, OD is different from OE so I cant press in the old (or new OE) ones.... Fuck me.

WOW, that sucks........which prolly means you had at least one spring off the truck already. I thought Atlas spring was a decent company......:confused::confused::confused:

Try national or someone local? I know of 3 springs shops in PA I could recommend....

Java 09-06-2018 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pennsylvaniaboy (Post 44060798)
WOW, that sucks........which prolly means you had at least one spring off the truck already. I thought Atlas spring was a decent company......:confused::confused::confused:

Try national or someone local? I know of 3 springs shops in PA I could recommend....

Yep its in the air in the shop for the SECOND TIME that I am paying for...... :barf:

They are trying to find a bushing that will work....

I went with Atlas as they were recommended by a few people, the local guys did not really do "off road" springs much.

christyle 09-06-2018 01:55 PM

Damn that sucks...

Any idea if maybe something was up with your truck, that maybe it isn't typical to the truck? Longshot, but who knows...?

Java 09-06-2018 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christyle (Post 44061066)
Damn that sucks...

Any idea if maybe something was up with your truck, that maybe it isn't typical to the truck? Longshot, but who knows...?

Play pickup not cab chassis oh, that's all I can think of.

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Java 09-06-2018 09:17 PM

Well I am rapidly losing faith in Atlas Spring Company.

Springs are installed, ended up being able to ream the bushing out to fit the OE bolts. Correct length this time.

Now the fun, I took a measurement before I dropped the truck off at the shop. ~37.5" to the wheel well in the rear.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1855/...2367c398_b.jpg

Note the patch of plants, just to show I am in nearly the same spot.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1856/...ef66576d_b.jpg

And After.... 36.5" Thats an inch SHORTER not 1" taller than stock!! bags are at 10 psi, I ran 70 previously with the OE springs, just enough to keep then above the overloads or it squeaked like crazy.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1877/...10ed29e0_b.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1892/...a6bbb087_b.jpg


And here is my order, clearly give the weight, and 1" over stock. I emailed after the first set were wrong verifying that was rear end only, just to try to mitigate any issues with the new set.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1887/...2359564e_b.jpg

v6toy4x 09-06-2018 10:14 PM

what did we say about Mr Murphy??

He a bad MoFo!!

Don't know what to say other than this will make a great story in a few years when someone asks for a recommendation on leaf springs!!

Java 09-06-2018 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v6toy4x (Post 44062090)
what did we say about Mr Murphy??

He a bad MoFo!!

Don't know what to say other than this will make a great story in a few years when someone asks for a recommendation on leaf springs!!

Yeah I told him to fuck off I think. Seriously, this is getting rediculous.

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carslut 09-06-2018 10:27 PM

head - palm....... slap. Jesus......... of all the issues to have wit springs your about to set a record and not in a good way. sorry

Java 09-06-2018 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carslut (Post 44062130)
head - palm....... slap. Jesus......... of all the issues to have wit springs your about to set a record and not in a good way. sorry