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Old 04-09-2018, 12:05 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Did you drive it with the Willys on the back? From the looks of the picture compared to ones without it your front end looks very light. Maybe its just me, but that would make me nervous. If it was me I'd be trying to kick the rear axle back as far as possible to get more weight transfer. I suspect with a camper on there as it sits it would be super squirrelly.
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Old 04-09-2018, 12:32 PM   #27 (permalink)
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What is the purpose of the ramps that lift the front of the crawler higher?
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Old 04-09-2018, 01:26 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I got on a truck scale today and 5320lbs is the most it would register. Seems awfully low, so going to try and get it on another scale down at the mill in town.
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Old 04-09-2018, 01:34 PM   #29 (permalink)
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What is the purpose of the ramps that lift the front of the crawler higher?
They are there to get the front tires as far forward as possible. Otherwise the bumper would hit the bangboard.
Parts for my runner will be here this week and I will get that loaded up and weigh the two together. That willys did sag the back a little but honestly wasnt that bad. The pictures I got were a little deceiving because of the slope of the ground I backed up to. I did go ahead and ordered a rear airbag helper kit to try and get the nose down. But that willys is a monster next to my runner. The wheelbase is a little longer but my tires are a bit smaller and it sits a lot lower.
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Old 04-09-2018, 02:13 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Doesn't come with any stock bed mounts. There were some extra holes, and I could have tried to build a bunch of random sized brackets to bolt to, but this was cleaner, faster, and imo stronger. I did use weld through primer on the bare frame and brackets, kept my heat affected welded areas as small as possible, and reapplied a rubberized coating after, not the same stuff as gm, but good stuff anyways.
I never get a warm feeling about welding to a frame on a newer truck but I'm sure you had your reasons and I'd guess it will be fine. In the couple of flatbed installs I have been a part of we've either used u-bolts or straps around the frame rail with oak strips between the bed and the frame rail, or made cross members out of 2"x2"x1/4" square tube and bolted with existing holes. Strange that they're weren't already holes. Attachment of the bed to the frame isn't seeing all that much force, conventional means of mounting are adequate and don't weaken the frame, like your welds did.

What about continuing your ramps up over the cab?
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Old 04-09-2018, 02:19 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I see very little frame weakening if you look at the size of my brackets compared to the size of the frame. Maybe I'm wrong. These new 3500 frames are pretty beefy. I dont like u bolts because of how they stretch and stuff starts vibrating. Removal of the bed will be much easier as well. But to each his own. What fun would watching builds be if they were all done the same?
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Old 04-09-2018, 02:28 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I see very little frame weakening if you look at the size of my brackets compared to the size of the frame. Maybe I'm wrong. These new 3500 frames are pretty beefy. I dont like u bolts because of how they stretch and stuff starts vibrating. Removal of the bed will be much easier as well. But to each his own. What fun would watching builds be if they were all done the same?
Looking back at your pictures, there are holes in the frame you could have bolted those brackets to. I've seen those used as well with either strap or channel.

It's your truck and family and it's already on and done, just keep an eye out for cracks.
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Old 04-09-2018, 02:42 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Ramps over the cab could be done, but that sure would put alot of weight up in the air so I am holding off on that. My crawler is long but there is very little weight in the ass end other than the axle and tires. After a little research on the camper I'm getting, it has a tongue weight of maybe 800lbs. It is 26 ft. trailer. Larger than I wanted but only a year old and getting a killer deal on it. Someone asked about that earlier.
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Old 04-09-2018, 03:48 PM   #34 (permalink)
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I dd a f550 with a utility bed and with my welding machine on it along with tools I am over the rear axle gvw. I can't imagine with that wheelbase you won't be. I know at least in ca I am required to stop at the scales in anything that doesn't have a pickup bed whether commercial or not.
So scales?
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Old 04-09-2018, 05:26 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I have bo idea about scales or requirements to stop.
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Old 04-09-2018, 06:25 PM   #36 (permalink)
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So scales?
pretty much no where else requires a privately owned truck to hit scales.

california sucks.
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Old 04-09-2018, 06:26 PM   #37 (permalink)
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The reason they do u bolts, is to alow some movement. The frame and bed will flex differently. I guess time will tell if it's an issue or not.
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Old 04-09-2018, 07:29 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Going to have to put this bed on a diet. Weighed in at 10k today. Bit more than I was expecting.
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Old 04-09-2018, 08:00 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Going to have to put this bed on a diet. Weighed in at 10k today. Bit more than I was expecting.
Thatís heavier than I thought too. You need to lose 2000lbs somehow. I figure your runner must weigh 4000lbs at least, throw in 800lbs tongue weight, the family and what not and your over the limit.
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Old 04-09-2018, 08:21 PM   #40 (permalink)
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You are right on the numbers I'm thinking also. Don't see losing 2000 lbs as happening. I'll lose some but not sure how much. Going to get what idaho has as a truck plate, so it at least it might detur from getting pulled over and weighed. Maybe one trip a year will I be where I would consider at risk of being checked for weight. If I do it shouldnt be more than 2000lbs over. Which here in idaho is under a $100 ticket.

Really not sure now until i figure what the crawler weighs. Of course id like to be within the gvwr for safety concerns, but I think with the airbags and smart driving it will be fine. Either way I'm going to continue. I am daily driving this thing as well. Has a whole 325 miles on it now.
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Old 04-09-2018, 08:28 PM   #41 (permalink)
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You really need to learn to understand numbers. A tape measure would have told you your bed is too short and anyone with a brain could tell that bed was going to weigh damn near what a truck weighs. All of this should have been worked out before you bought the fucking truck. Now you are stuck with it and instead of starting with a better platform or reworking the bed, you are just saying "fuck safety" and running with it. Die in fire.
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Old 04-09-2018, 08:45 PM   #42 (permalink)
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I'm actually surprised, 10k is pretty light for what it is. I would be the crawler is close to 5500 ready for the trail.

Shit my stock 90 4runner was 3800.

So easy 16k before you hook the trailer up.........
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Old 04-09-2018, 09:14 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Way to long of a bed, too much overhang. Over weight, hard mounted, and you still want to hook up to a trailer.

No way in hell.

Ditch the bed and buy a toy hauler or put a camper on a trailer.
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Old 04-09-2018, 10:38 PM   #44 (permalink)
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On the bright side, your shitty front end should hold up much better since the wheels will never be on the ground. To balance it out you could add a ballast box under the driver's door to match the DEF tank.
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Old 04-10-2018, 04:16 AM   #45 (permalink)
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The truck is probably in the 8,000-8,500 range as a bare cab/chassis. If this is to be a decicated toy hauler I imagine a purpose built ramp and ditching the flatbed could probably save you some considerable weight. Need to get your crawler weighed first to see if any of that is worthwhile.

Personally, I would start looking at a toyhauler type trailer and keeping a more conventional truck.
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Old 04-10-2018, 08:14 AM   #46 (permalink)
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At least stretch the wheelbase to get the axle closer to the hitch.
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Old 04-10-2018, 01:10 PM   #47 (permalink)
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I would suggest a ramp style bed maybe 12-16" wide for each side of the rig, and some crossmembers to mount it off of. Probably cut your bed weight by half or more. Then an aluminum tool box in the middle.
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Old 04-10-2018, 01:27 PM   #48 (permalink)
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At least stretch the wheelbase to get the axle closer to the hitch.


That and it will transfer a lot of the truck weight to the front axle. Right now you are going to be way way over rear axle gvw ratings.
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Old 04-10-2018, 02:03 PM   #49 (permalink)
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OP should have started with a school bus.
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Old 04-10-2018, 02:41 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Would be interesting to see axle weights with the 4runner on it. Have you thought about adding springs to the bed mount bolts for a little flex? Might need a tag axle.
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