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Old 09-30-2018, 06:14 AM   #26 (permalink)
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4" straight pipe is just way too loud, especially with the 1.15ar turbine housing. Also drones like an SOB going down the road. This is a 4" dynomax bullet (glass pack) welded to a 51" Donaldson style muffler. Quiet combo.
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Old 09-30-2018, 10:23 AM   #27 (permalink)
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The mufflers tucked up nice under the truck. Got rid of the tip and did 4" all the way out. Super quiet, can have a conversation next to the tailpipe at 2500rpm. It should also flow very well.
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Old 10-01-2018, 03:18 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Got the bumper in place, it really shows how crooked the front end is from hitting the tree. Still need to add some plate under the marker lights to fill the gaps. Surprisingly it is not super heavy, maybe 120lb give or take and all 1/4" plate.

Thinking of building a grille gaurd. Have a buddy with a nice tube Bender, think I could make something respectful and not gaudy.
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Last edited by Back Woods; 10-01-2018 at 03:19 PM.
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Old 10-02-2018, 12:25 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Finished under the lights. It is all crooked so I just worked with it. Pretty happy with how it turned out. If I had to make another bumper it would be all 3/16" instead of 1/4" plate. Have some more work to do to the truck but it is almost ready to go back on the road.
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Old 10-02-2018, 03:42 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Painted up.
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Old 10-12-2018, 02:10 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Got the truck all back together and on the road. Installed a gauge pod so I can see what is happening. Truck is running pretty good with the new turbo and tune. Running an SCT tuner with a 110hp Race tune. Unloaded WOT from a roll 15-70mph nets 27psi boost and 1300* EGT. All in all happy with that, although I am currently running an 85hp Street tune. This tune nets 26psi/1250* egt on a WOT pull.

A few things since I have been driving it. U-code springs ARE THE SHIT. Talk about a smooth ride, handles awesome down dirt roads and two tracks without slamming you around. Was wondering how it would on the freeway with no sway bars, all in all pretty good but it does have slight body roll + tread squirm.

Pretty happy with the transmission, really happy actually. The shifts are firm but dont slam. Firm enough to feel it in the seat but mostly under light throttle it is felt. Open it up and it shifts super smooth. Definitely holds the gears into a higher RPM before it shifts. At WOT it will hold gear until 3200rpm, 3rd gear runs up to 3200rpm TC unlocked and when it locks it drops to around 2800rpm. Talk about keeping it in the horsepower band. Was merging onto the freeway yesterday and hit 3rd gear lock up at WOT and blew apart an intercooler boot clamp. Held it together with a dog collar and leash for 200 miles.

Running through the gears.
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Old 10-23-2018, 09:07 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Well, it's definitely not an F700 Toter-home but it will do the job. The next thing I need to do is take off the topper and start building a platform to haul our JD Gator. Thinking of a mount that goes into the gooseneck hitch and a drive over the cab of the truck. It is about 12.5' long so it may take some R&D to get it to fit.
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Last edited by Back Woods; 10-23-2018 at 01:24 PM.
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Old 10-23-2018, 11:16 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Is the Gator narrow enough to fit inside the box? If not, are you planning on going on top of the box, or building a flatbed?

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Old 10-23-2018, 12:46 PM   #34 (permalink)
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It just barely fits about 1" on either side when going through the narrow part of the tail gate frame. So far all I can really find are "loaders" that place the UTV on the top of the bed rails. It does save bed space but puts the UTV so high that I just dont like how they look.

Ideally I would like it to fit in the bed of the truck and tow the camper. Worst case is it will be assigned to pull a different trailer with a longer tongue. Trying to stay away from that though. It also needs to be able to go from truck to truck without much hassle. Problem here is if I use the GN hitch to lock it Ive got 3 different trucks with 3 different hitches. Maybe a ball lock on the GN ball instead of using the receiver end. The wheel base of the Gator is 9.5ft, big ole SOB.

Last edited by Back Woods; 10-23-2018 at 12:47 PM.
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Old 10-23-2018, 01:23 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Back Woods View Post
It just barely fits about 1" on either side when going through the narrow part of the tail gate frame. So far all I can really find are "loaders" that place the UTV on the top of the bed rails. It does save bed space but puts the UTV so high that I just dont like how they look.
Ideally I would like it to fit in the bed of the truck and tow the camper. Worst case is it will be assigned to pull a different trailer with a longer tongue. Trying to stay away from that though. It also needs to be able to go from truck to truck without much hassle. Problem here is if I use the GN hitch to lock it Ive got 3 different trucks with 3 different hitches. Maybe a ball lock on the GN ball instead of using the receiver end. The wheel base of the Gator is 9.5ft, big ole SOB.
I would use chains and binders to the gooseneck safety chain anchors. Go in all 4 directions and have rubber on the bottom of where the frame sits in the bed and it shouldn't move. Add in a vertical piece of pipe with a hole in the side to put a pin through to capture the ball and it wont go anywhere even if the chains came off.
On length, if the ramps go up 4.5' over the length of an 8' truck bed, you will have just over 9' of ramp before you make the flat part above the cab.

I might look at something like the BilletKing rack for your frame design: BilletKing Off Road - Pro-Race Engineered Custom Billet Components


Edit, pictures wont embed for me. See:
http://www.f1engineering.com/images/hauler.jpg
http://www.f1engineering.com/images/Loaded.jpg
http://www.f1engineering.com/images/page%205.jpg

Another one I found from: http://www.utvguide.net/utv_transport/
http://utvguide.net/images/UTV-TruckRack-1.jpg

http://utvguide.net/images/UTV-TruckRack-4.jpg

http://utvguide.net/images/UTV-TruckRack-2.jpg


Aaron Z

Last edited by aczlan; 10-23-2018 at 01:32 PM.
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Old 10-23-2018, 01:35 PM   #36 (permalink)
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First drawing. The rear tire needs to be in atleast 1' to clear a trailer due to bed overhang on the Gator. Need to figure out what clearances would be with a flat over the cab of the truck and if ground clearance will be an issue or not.
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Old 11-01-2018, 10:40 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Rust season is right around the corner in Michigan. This is the cleanest truck as far as rust is concerned I have owned. Some surface rust under the body and some rust at the door bottoms. The only hole in the truck is a little one over the rear fender. Chassis saver is the shit, use it on everything. Getting everything rust proofed and tossing on some mud flaps.
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Old 11-01-2018, 11:33 AM   #38 (permalink)
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What about a hitch extension to move the camper back? See truck campers with trailers use them all the time. Couple buddies use 4 ft extensions that look crazy but seem to work fine.

I hear ya on the rust. Everything rusts away here. My truck came from Florida and I fluid film it every year. I bought the air gun and hit it with a couple gallons every fall and that has eliminated any rust.

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Old 11-02-2018, 06:55 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Change of plans with the Gator mount in the bed. Instead we will be converting one of our horse trailers into the Gator hauler. Have to modify the rear doors and remove the manger to fit it. Will be more practical this way since we got rid of our horses.
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Old 11-04-2018, 10:12 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Got some mud flaps mounted and chassis saver slathered everywhere. The front mud flaps are widddeee. Mainly because I hate salt and they spread that shit 24/7 up here. Second is because the driver's side inner fender had been damaged and cut up. Since the axle is 1" forward I don't have to worry about rubbing issues. Should cut down on under body spray A LOT. For the rear I made some brackets that mount to the Reese hitch. Could have gone a little wider but didn't want to worry about snagging them on tighter trails.
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Old 12-27-2018, 02:36 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Decided against the truck rack. Instead we decided to gut the back of our horse trailer and turn it into a toy hauler. Had to make a removable center pin door latch and gut the manger, tack room, rear tack. Turned out REALLY good and the garage is 15'6". Need to make some tie downs and it will be ready to haul.







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Old 04-02-2019, 09:50 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Update this a little bit. Have been driving the truck a lot and doing a good amount of towing. Made it from Michigan to Georgia and back with little issue. The load coming back was a tough one. Had a 14ft deer blind on it's side with a 4'x6' plywood WALL, measuring around 12'8". In the boost the entire time. Averaged below 7mpg, in the picture north of Kentucky it knocked down 6.7mpg. Truck ran real good though, averaged 16-22psi boost the entire trip on an 85hp tune. EGTs were manageable but was still able to hit 1300* only maintaining speed up some grades.





Next up is a T4 turbo swap. Have the transmission built to take some power and have most of the parts to build it. Has been a fun kit to build so far.





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Old 04-02-2019, 12:06 PM   #43 (permalink)
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did you un-painted the front bumper or is it just dirty?

looking good
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Old 04-02-2019, 12:24 PM   #44 (permalink)
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michigan unpaints things on the roads quickly.
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Old 04-02-2019, 12:35 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Old 04-02-2019, 01:01 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Oh yeah, it rusted quick. Will probably repaint it with Chassis Saver.
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Old 04-17-2019, 04:57 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Messing around with this T4 swap some more.

Oil Feed line.





T4 collector pipes.





Up-pipes, they are all cut up now for re-welding.

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Old 04-17-2019, 05:02 AM   #48 (permalink)
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After finish welding the T4 flange it was not flat anymore. 5 hours with a steel plate, sand paper, file and flap disk got it flat within .01". The lower left hole was the farthest out of wack. Pretty happy with how it turned out with nothing more than a torch, grinder, die grinder and drill.



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