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Old 03-15-2019, 08:05 PM   #126 (permalink)
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well, the 343 is intermittent and is currently off. i have chased the wires and cleaned the connector, all looks good. cleared the log history, so we will see if it comes back. everything else ran great and had a great time. only got 12.3 on the way back, but i blame the headwind.

anyone with insight on the 343 issues?

trans seemed to get warmer than i liked (has been running at 150, got to about 180 after some stop and go in 80 degree weather), so i am going to go MUTTs route with the 9 blade fan, clutch, and cooler. i have also thought about bypassing the radiator and only using the trukool, thoughts?

thanks all, and thank you to bulletpruf for starting this thread. i hope i am not clogging it up to badly
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Old 03-16-2019, 10:13 PM   #127 (permalink)
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Brakes are next. Suspension will be coming up after that. Thanks for the details on steering/suspension.

Easy enough to tell if you've wiped a lobe - turn the motor over with a valve cover off. See if one of the rocker arms doesn't appear to have as much travel as the others. Get a dial indicator if you want to get fancy, but if the lobe is completely wiped, you won't need it. I'd pull the plugs first and if one plug looks different than the others, I'd focus on that cylinder.

I'd seriously think about a Dura-burb if I were you. I've thought about it as well, but the 8.1, while not in the same league as the Duramax, is adequate for what I do. Anyway, there's a few companies that do these swaps, but they're expensive. If I had time and shop space, I'd seriously consider doing it myself.

Good luck!

Scott
Thanks for the tip on the rocker arms, Iíll do that. I canít remember how it was looking 20k miles ago when I first got it and changed the plugs. I was kind of in a rush. I can pull them again and check, I should also probably get new wires while Iím there. The AC Delco ones I swapped in are too short.

If I could pipe dream for a minute, Iíd seriously consider a dura-burb with A SAS using Tims kit. That would be a serious Excursion contender and great family tow rig. I may just keep the Burb around long enough to do that one day, but thereís tons of stuff ahead of that... like getting the space to even try that haha. I guess I can just dream for now.
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Old 03-17-2019, 08:20 AM   #128 (permalink)
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Brakes are next. Suspension will be coming up after that. Thanks for the details on steering/suspension.



Easy enough to tell if you've wiped a lobe - turn the motor over with a valve cover off. See if one of the rocker arms doesn't appear to have as much travel as the others. Get a dial indicator if you want to get fancy, but if the lobe is completely wiped, you won't need it. I'd pull the plugs first and if one plug looks different than the others, I'd focus on that cylinder.




Scott

I went with PPE TREs on my 2500HD after trashing a set of moog units. They were beefy, and took abuse well. Also put on a set of Kryptonite upper A arms that were a drastic improvement over stock. The help correct the ball joint angle after leveling the truck. I had planned to go with their steering brace, idler arm, and idler arm support, but got rid of the truck before that happened.





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Old 03-17-2019, 06:44 PM   #129 (permalink)
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I went with PPE TREs on my 2500HD after trashing a set of moog units. They were beefy, and took abuse well. Also put on a set of Kryptonite upper A arms that were a drastic improvement over stock. The help correct the ball joint angle after leveling the truck. I had planned to go with their steering brace, idler arm, and idler arm support, but got rid of the truck before that happened.





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DMaxSTORE house brand stuff is great. Awesome warranty and good products.

I had everything you listed there and would recommend it if youíre going all out.
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Old 04-02-2019, 12:36 PM   #130 (permalink)
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I got lucky with 410s, but I still felt a significant difference stepping up to 35s. I'm still running stock exhaust and intake though...
Hey Monkey what suspension mods did you do to fit the 35s?

For the any of you guys I have a question. I was looking to level my burb, 01 2500 8.1 and found that the previous owner has already maxed the keys. The rear is still 1" higher at the fender lip. I looked and there isnt any block between the axle and springs. If I backed the keys off to stock it would be a pretty huge difference. Is there usually that much difference between the front and rear height wise? Or are my torsion springs shot?

I was under the impression that the truck could be leveled with the stock keys but I guess not. OP thanks for starting this thread Ive already picked up quite a bit of info.
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Old 04-02-2019, 03:58 PM   #131 (permalink)
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Hey Monkey what suspension mods did you do to fit the 35s? ...Is there usually that much difference between the front and rear height wise? Or are my torsion springs shot?
Aftermarket keys, that's it. When we first installed them, I got about four inches of lift. It was taller than I wanted, and it rode like shit. I backed them off about an inch and a half (so 2.5" above stock) and I'm happy there. Had to trim the front fender liners pretty hard, but that's it.

Yeah, they do have a pretty hard rake, stock. This is from when I brought it home, six years ago tomorrow...
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Old 04-02-2019, 05:51 PM   #132 (permalink)
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Damn. I didnt realize the rake was that bad stock. Which keys did you go with? I see all kinds out there and want to make sure before I buy. Did you have much issue getting them out? I noticed on the burb theres another crossmember right behind the the torsion bar crossmember. Seems like it would make it a little difficult to knock the bar out of the keys from the back.

How much rubbing do you get with the 35s and are you running stock offset wheels? Got any pics of the trimming you did? I know its a lot of questions but I found a really clean truck and I dont want jack it up trying to fit tires. I may just stick with 285s. My buddy down the road just bought a black 01 with the 8.1 and hes going with the 285s as well. I think hes moving north and doesnt want to deal with too big a tire in the snow

Im getting ready to throw on bilsteins and ditch the autoride. Im getting a lot of wallowing so I figure its time. Not sure if I want to go with the 4600 or 5100s.

I am going to swap in the trucool tranny cooler. Im getting the weeping at the hose ends so when I replace the lines I may just bypass the internal cooler with new hoses going to the new larger cooler.

Last edited by Stuckntx; 04-02-2019 at 06:11 PM.
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Old 04-02-2019, 06:29 PM   #133 (permalink)
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I ran 285/70R17 on my 2010. I donít think 35ís would have fit without cranking the tbars to the max. I had aftermarket 17x8 rims.


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Old 04-03-2019, 04:53 AM   #134 (permalink)
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I am going to swap in the trucool tranny cooler. Im getting the weeping at the hose ends so when I replace the lines I may just bypass the internal cooler with new hoses going to the new larger cooler.
I just swapped out my radiator and didn't do the tranny lines due to being in a rush getting ready for a trip. They are starting to leak pretty good now. I have debating bypassing the radiator cooler as well. What cooler are you planning to use?
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Old 04-03-2019, 06:13 AM   #135 (permalink)
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Damn. I didnt realize the rake was that bad stock. Which keys did you go with? I see all kinds out there and want to make sure before I buy. Did you have much issue getting them out? I noticed on the burb theres another crossmember right behind the the torsion bar crossmember. Seems like it would make it a little difficult to knock the bar out of the keys from the back.
.
Just knock out the rivets holding the torsion bar cross member bushings in place. Replace the bushings because they are shot anyway at that age. Drop the whole crossmember down and you will have plenty of room to pound it off of the torsion bars.

Disclaimer- Iíve only worked on half ton chevs of this vintage, but I donít imagine gm would change the mounting of that crossmember between frames just due to an increase in gvwr
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Old 04-03-2019, 06:18 AM   #136 (permalink)
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Just knock out the rivets holding the torsion bar cross member bushings in place. Replace the bushings because they are shot anyway at that age. Drop the whole crossmember down and you will have plenty of room to pound it off of the torsion bars.

Disclaimer- Iíve only worked on half ton chevs of this vintage, but I donít imagine gm would change the mounting of that crossmember between frames just due to an increase in gvwr
This one
https://www.amazon.com/Tru-Cool-LPD4...-20&pldnSite=1

Its discussed in post 27 of this thread. Its a pretty common upgrade Ive seen on several sites.
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Old 04-03-2019, 06:23 AM   #137 (permalink)
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Just knock out the rivets holding the torsion bar cross member bushings in place. Replace the bushings because they are shot anyway at that age. Drop the whole crossmember down and you will have plenty of room to pound it off of the torsion bars.

Disclaimer- I’ve only worked on half ton chevs of this vintage, but I don’t imagine gm would change the mounting of that crossmember between frames just due to an increase in gvwr
It actually is different. The 1500 and 2500 are built on completely different frames. The crossmember doesnt have the bushing mount its mounted on "drop arms". The pivot ends on the arms are 90į to each other. I would just have to unbolt the mounts then and drop it.

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Old 04-04-2019, 06:11 AM   #138 (permalink)
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Did the front brakes last night - bought the full Power Stop brake kit off Amazon for $475 - pads and rotors. Rotors are slotted and drilled; would have just preferred slotted, but didn't see a kit for that.

Had a HELL of a time getting the caliper brackets loose! I wouldn't think these were the original rotors, but I guess they could be with only 98k on the truck. Anyway, they were stuck in there with what appears to be the factory Loctite; hit it with Kroil and had to use my torch to heat things up. Would have had more room to work if I had put it on the lift, but it's occupied right now.

Next up - rear axle bearings, axle seals (one is bad), rear brake rotors and pads, and rear parking brake shoes.

BTW - Good discussion on rake. Mine is a few inches higher in the front, too. Aftermarket keys sound like the hot ticket, especially since I'll upgrade the tires at some point.

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Old 04-04-2019, 07:15 PM   #139 (permalink)
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Got the axle seals replaced today. Fairly straightforward. Replaced parking brake shoes (reminded me how much of a pain in the ass it is to mess with drum brakes), rotors, brake pads while I was at it.

Both axle seals were torn but only one was leaking. Might have torn the other one when I was removing the hub.

Now I need to tackle the front output shaft seal leak in the NP246. Posted in the Chevy forum here, but if anyone has any tips or a part number, please post up. I've rebuilt one of these before, but it's been several years.

Last edited by bulletpruf; 04-04-2019 at 07:38 PM.
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Old 04-04-2019, 10:29 PM   #140 (permalink)
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Just found this thread, great burb info.

The old lady sold her JK and has been driving my extended cab/ long bed 8.1 2500HD and now wants an 8.1 burb to replace the 2500HD.

Has anyone towed with both a pickup and burb? How much do you miss the allison in the burb? 90% of the time if we are towing the heep we are going up/ down I70 in Colorado. How squirly are they with a 20' 10k car hauler compared to the longer wheelbase of a truck?
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Old 04-05-2019, 05:59 PM   #141 (permalink)
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Transfer case front output shaft seal R&R today. Could have been a quick day if the planets had lined up, but they didn't...

First, it was difficult to nail down the right part. So I just pulled it and got the part number off the seal. Part number on the seal was 30138. Corresponds with GM part number 12474947, which you can fine online at Amazon and Rock Auto for about $60. However, I didn't have time to wait for one to be shipped to me, so I got the AutoZone Duralast 710495 for $35.99.

But before I could remove the seal, I had to get the driveshaft out. And it wasn't going to come easy. After gently tapping with a small hammer, and then tapping not-so-gently with a larger hammer with no movement at all, I hit the splines with some Kroil. Then it came out with a bit more tapping. I guess whoever removed it last didn't grease the splines.

From there, I had to find someone with the part I needed. The local AutoZone didn't have it, so I had to drive halfway across town to a shop that had one.

And after I got home, I realized I didn't have a socket big enough to drive it in. Largest socket is 2" and I needed at least a 2 1/4" socket. Took me a while of gently tapping around the perimeter to get it seated.

Driveshaft went back in without any problems, but with some grease on the splines this time. U-joints are original, and looked fine, so I didn't mess with 'em.

Then had to top off the transfer case with AutoTrac II fluid. Made a mess, of course, even using a fluid transfer pump.

From there, I decided to try to adjust the parking brakes again. They didn't hold the 'Burb in place when I parked it in our steep driveway last night. Thought I had them adjusted just right, but when it didn't stay in place, I figured I screwed something up. Anyway, between starting from scratch and adjusting both sides yet again, and getting the cable just right, it still won't stay in place on the driveway. That's odd, because the old worn out parking brake did just fine, after I cleaned up all the gear lube that had leaked on the shoes on one side.

Wondering if I need to hit the new shoes and inside of the rotors with brake cleaner. Maybe some residue on them that needs to be cleaned off?
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Old 04-05-2019, 06:22 PM   #142 (permalink)
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How do you have them adjusted? No ridges worn on the inside of the rotor "hat/drum" per say right?

Brake cleaner and a scotch brite pad wouldnt be a bad idea on the inside of the rotor hat.

Take off the rotor and adjust the shoes apart a little bit and see if the rotor still slides on, if it does remove it and adjust them out more. Keep doing this until you just cant quite get the rotor on then back off the shoes just a little bit. They always seems to have a tight spot about midway of having the rotor installed then loosen up when you get the rotor seated on the hub. You will want to hear and feel a little bit of drag with the rotor installed fully and you try and turn it.

By the way they never seen to work near as well rolling backwards vs going forwards, i dont know why but its easy to drive through them backing out of my driveway(flat ground) but when i shift to drive and try to go forward its obvious they are on.
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Old 04-06-2019, 06:20 AM   #143 (permalink)
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How do you have them adjusted? No ridges worn on the inside of the rotor "hat/drum" per say right?

Brake cleaner and a scotch brite pad wouldnt be a bad idea on the inside of the rotor hat.

Take off the rotor and adjust the shoes apart a little bit and see if the rotor still slides on, if it does remove it and adjust them out more. Keep doing this until you just cant quite get the rotor on then back off the shoes just a little bit. They always seems to have a tight spot about midway of having the rotor installed then loosen up when you get the rotor seated on the hub. You will want to hear and feel a little bit of drag with the rotor installed fully and you try and turn it.

By the way they never seen to work near as well rolling backwards vs going forwards, i dont know why but its easy to drive through them backing out of my driveway(flat ground) but when i shift to drive and try to go forward its obvious they are on.
Yeah, that's exactly how I adjusted them -- until I could just get the rotor on. Then I made sure they were just barely dragging when I installed them. Also took the slack out of the cable.

Rotors are new. Shoes are new.

Think I'll pull rotors off and hit shoes and inside of rotors with brake cleaner and try again.

Thanks
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Old 04-06-2019, 09:26 AM   #144 (permalink)
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Set them to where you can barely turn the rotors when they are installed.

They are being held on with the little clip with the 10mm screw iirc on the bottom side(180* from the actautor) correct?
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Old 04-06-2019, 06:32 PM   #145 (permalink)
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Set them to where you can barely turn the rotors when they are installed.

They are being held on with the little clip with the 10mm screw iirc on the bottom side(180* from the actautor) correct?
I always set the shoes to where they are just barely touching the drums. Any further out and I think they would wear prematurely.

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Old 04-06-2019, 06:49 PM   #146 (permalink)
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Just swap the coil wiring to the PCM so the firing order matches and you can use any Mark IV cam, I have a stock 502 HO cam in mine.
How does that run? I picked up one for cheap I may build.
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Old 04-18-2019, 07:54 PM   #147 (permalink)
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Going to install new Timken hubs this weekend.

Serpentine belt coming up next.

The itty bitty tires and shitty stance (a few inches too high in the rear) are really starting to wear me out. Itching to throw some larger tires under it and get some aftermarket keys to lift the front a few inches.
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Old 04-21-2019, 05:36 PM   #148 (permalink)
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Timken hubs are on. Took about 3 hours. The faint low pitched whine/hum that I was hearing seems to be gone.

Serp belt (new tensioner and idler pulley) up next.

Headed on a bit of a road trip this weekend - have to pick up 66 Fairlane GT convertible in Columbus, GA.
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Old 04-21-2019, 07:12 PM   #149 (permalink)
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helluva trip.

pics of fairlane?
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Old 04-22-2019, 04:08 AM   #150 (permalink)
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Pics below. Has a built 428, Edelbrock alum heads, mild solid roller, headers, etc. Heads and intake (Streetmaster) painted for a bit of a stealth look. Toploader 4 sp, 3.25 9". Still needs a few finishing touches.







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