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Old 12-17-2018, 08:40 AM   #76 (permalink)
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After finding the cracked light lenses the other night I decided to go ahead and replace all the lighting with LED units. This should be the last bit of business on this trailer until summer when I replace the deck. The deck that is on the trailer currently is a little bit soft in a couple spots but not bad enough to tear off yet.

In process
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Done
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Old 12-17-2018, 08:47 AM   #77 (permalink)
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This past weekend I made a trip to the salvage yard (as I usually do) where I happened to find a set of arms for my lift which was a total score. I paid by the pound for them.

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I also puttered around on the truck doing a few odds and ends. I replaced the floor mats, adjusted the steering box, tightened the power steering pump, and converted the dash lights to LED.

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Old 12-17-2018, 09:01 AM   #78 (permalink)
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I missed this when looking back through my pictures but a few weeks ago I found a wet fuel line near the tank when I was under the the truck. I ended up replacing all the fuel lines for good measure because of it. I was lucky to catch it before there was any significant leakage as this area is directly over the exhaust.

The return is 1/4" and I had that in stock in steel so I just used what I had. The feed was 5/16", which i didn't have in stock. As it happened the parts store was out of 5/16" in steel as well so I bought some copper nickel line. This was my first experience with it and I can honestly say I will never be using steel again. The additional price is easily justifiable solely based on how much easier the copper nickel is to work with. When you factor in the fact that is won't corrode it makes it a no brainer.

The truck originally had three lines: one feed, one return, and one vent. I replaced everything except the vent, as the charcoal filter under the hood was junk. I instead used a small engine fuel filter where the vent originally transitioned into hard line. This saved a bunch of time bending an extra line and actually stopped the tank from spitting gas out while filling (it used to spit a little bit out right as the pump would stop if you weren't paying attention)

Leaking line (the hose is cut because I had started on removal before I thought to take pictures)
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Original lines
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New return
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I didn't take any pictures of the new supply line as I was running short on time. Once I had the new lines installed I undercoated everything generously.
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Old 12-20-2018, 05:23 AM   #79 (permalink)
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Remember when I said I was stashing the plow behind my shop for later? Well it's later! I just pulled the fishing club's new truck into the shop to start making a push frame to adapt the old plow to the new cat eye Chevy.

The original frame that was on my 85 was well engineered and I was hoping I could reuse it. However, this will not be the case. When I mocked the original frame up to the new truck I realized that the frame mounting tabs would put the whole assembly much too low and would rob all available ground clearance. The frame mounts are also spaced far enough apart that they would impede the travel of the lower control arm. That being said, it will be more work to revamp the original frame that to just start over.

The club has another truck that is also a cat eye as well. They had a frame install done on it by a local shop about 2 years ago when they bought the truck. I plan to use some of the design cues from that frame as well as that of a shop from MN I found online.

The original frame utilized a Western conventional pump/valve/lift cylinder which was quite weak. I will be using a standalone hydraulic power unit and cylinder like in the pictures below.

Tearing the plow wiring out of the new truck (it had a Western Ultramount installed on it previous to them picking it up)
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Old frame mocked up. Note this would only leave them with approximately 8" of ground clearance, plus the lower control arms would contact the mount at full droop.
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Online plow frame I found. I like this mount as it is easily removable should the club need to move on from this truck.
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Old 12-20-2018, 05:32 AM   #80 (permalink)
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Bright as hell instrument panel lights will actually cut how well you can see with the headlamps by a very noticeable amount.
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Old 12-20-2018, 05:46 AM   #81 (permalink)
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Here are some pictures of the mount on the club's other truck NOTE THAT THIS IS NOT MY WORK

This is the attachment point for the plow. Notice that the frame itself hangs from a chassis crossmember that the shop slugged with a piece of round tubing. Their theory is that the mount floats when an obstacle is found with the plow (ice shove, hole, etc). I like the theory behind this but not the execution as the fact that the mount is steel on steel makes it quite loud and transfers a lot of engine vibration directly under the cab. This makes driving the truck feel like it has solid motor mounts. I am thinking I will add a bushing onto the crossmember (perhaps a UHMW sleeve or something similar) to cut down on noise and potential wear.
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The frame mounts in the rear will remain unchanged.
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Another thing I genuinely dislike is that the A-frame is simply slid into the frame horns and welded. This does not allow for the frame to be removed and reinstalled without a ton of fab work. I plan to weld angle iron around the frame horn as well as to the A-frame to create a bolting surface so that the frame can be removed and reinstalled if necessary. I also believe it will work to better distribute the load that is applied to the frame horns.
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I will also locate the lift cylinder at a steeper angle and will plate the backside of the A-frame to allow for that. the shallow angle the cylinder is currently set at allows for the rod of the cylinder to contact the rearmost crossmember of the plow even though it is notched.
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Old 12-20-2018, 05:51 AM   #82 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elwenil View Post
Bright as hell instrument panel lights will actually cut how well you can see with the headlamps by a very noticeable amount.
They're not remarkably bright, I chose to use the green diodes instead of white because the light they cast is quite a bit less harsh. The whole thing isn't much, if at all, brighter than the stock dash in my third gen.
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Old 12-20-2018, 06:23 AM   #83 (permalink)
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Might just be the contrast of the pic then. I haven't done the LEd swap in my dash because they are too hard to gt a dimmer to work with them and I can't stand light coming from the dash. A slight glow so I can see the needles and numbers is all I want.
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Old 12-26-2018, 09:56 AM   #84 (permalink)
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Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas! I sure did, and also had a chance to work on the design for the club's new plow frame.

I moved the new truck outside so I could bring the other truck down to measure the frame and plow on that truck. With that info I made a cut list of the steel I will be needing to set up the new truck with a frame like the one on their current truck. I will also be modifying the older plow so that it will be able to be interchanged with the newer truck's plow as it currently does not work on that frame due to the mounting ears on the plow.

New truck outside
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Current truck in the shop for measurements (that's a wrecker in the bed)
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Both plows side by side. The newer plow on the left makes the one that came off my '85 look like a toy.
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Old 12-27-2018, 11:49 AM   #85 (permalink)
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That new plow looks seriously stout. What does that much weight forward do to the front suspension? I would think the front suspension would need some impressive upgrades to support that much weight that far forward.

I would also think that that much weight must put a serious strain on the power steering pump when the engine is running slow.
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Old 12-27-2018, 11:56 AM   #86 (permalink)
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That new plow looks seriously stout. What does that much weight forward do to the front suspension? I would think the front suspension would need some impressive upgrades to support that much weight that far forward.

I would also think that that much weight must put a serious strain on the power steering pump when the engine is running slow.
You are correct on both counts. I haven't weighed either plow yet to see what they actually tip the scales at but they're both heavy. The front UCAs and LCAs on the wrecker truck have been replaced with aftermarket units, I don't know what brand as I wasn't involved in that, but they're pretty beefy.

The power steering pump in the wrecker truck has already taken a beating from the added weight. It's leaking somewhat significantly and will need replacement after this season. I try not to turn the wheel when the truck is at a dead stop if I can help it. We will need a better long term solution though.
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Old 12-28-2018, 04:31 AM   #87 (permalink)
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What are UCA's and LCA's?

I would think the stock power steering pump is more than up to the task if a different sized pulley were swapped in to spin the pump faster at lower engine speeds. Most pumps are not rated at idle speed so they are not producing nearly the GPM's that are required when doing work at slow speeds. Back in the day I can remember a Carpenter bus on a Hendrickson OEM vendor supplied chassis with a Cat 3208 engine. At slow engine speeds you could turn the steering wheel faster than the power steering pump could pump to keep up. As a consequence it was a real pig to drive around town. Not the best combination of parts for a vehicle that spent a lot of it's service life going slowly around corners in town.

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Old 12-28-2018, 05:07 AM   #88 (permalink)
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What are UCA's and LCA's?
Upper and Lower Control Arms
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Old 12-28-2018, 05:08 AM   #89 (permalink)
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You are correct on both counts. I haven't weighed either plow yet to see what they actually tip the scales at but they're both heavy. The front UCAs and LCAs on the wrecker truck have been replaced with aftermarket units, I don't know what brand as I wasn't involved in that, but they're pretty beefy.

The power steering pump in the wrecker truck has already taken a beating from the added weight. It's leaking somewhat significantly and will need replacement after this season. I try not to turn the wheel when the truck is at a dead stop if I can help it. We will need a better long term solution though.
Tell us more about this wrecker truck, what setup is it using, and what do they use it for, surely they don't have that many cars getting stuck do they?
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Old 12-28-2018, 06:50 AM   #90 (permalink)
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Tell us more about this wrecker truck, what setup is it using, and what do they use it for, surely they don't have that many cars getting stuck do they?
It has a fairly old wrecker on it that one of the other guys scored off Craigslist. It has a Ramsey electric winch on it and is quite stout. The arms are adjustable via a crank on the side of the mast and the boom telescopes out.

It's pretty common for people to bury their vehicle trying to drive to their shack that is off the plowed road. However, the wrecker is handiest for busting loose bridges that have frozen down to the ice either due to warm weather or rain followed by a cold snap.

This is from the day my buddy picked up the wrecker. It was blasted, painted, rewired, and re-rigged before mounting on the truck.
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Truck doing what the truck does. The leaf springs in the rear were replaced with new packs that were specifically spec'ed for this use.
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Picking a bridge. Note the buildup of ice under the bridge. This was after we got some rain, so it was really bad.
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Old 12-28-2018, 07:19 AM   #91 (permalink)
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So, is it setup for moving ice buildings as well?
Ran across this video with some trucks that looked like they were setup similarly:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNZiMiF5gao


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Old 12-28-2018, 07:41 AM   #92 (permalink)
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So, is it setup for moving ice buildings as well?
Ran across this video with some trucks that looked like they were setup similarly:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNZiMiF5gao


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Those runner shacks aren't as popular around here. Most guys run wheeled shacks with suspension on them because it allows you to use them like a regular enclosed trailer in the off season. This way you're not investing $$$ into something you can only use for a couple months. Plus you can easily pull even big shacks with a four wheeler. These are my buddy's shacks.
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Old 12-28-2018, 07:53 AM   #93 (permalink)
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Wow, that's cool. I've never been far enough North to know anything about ice shacks. Are those built, or bought?
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Old 12-28-2018, 08:18 AM   #94 (permalink)
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Those plows are really stout!

I'm curious about the lower mounting points and running supports all the way back to mid-frame. I've seen that on heavy-duty plow trucks before, but never on a pickup. I assume it's just to spread the load out more on the frame from the 'pushing' load, but I'm curious about your experience with it. Absent that support, do these plows take out front frame rails?
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Old 12-28-2018, 08:20 AM   #95 (permalink)
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Wow, that's cool. I've never been far enough North to know anything about ice shacks. Are those built, or bought?
All of those are built minus the frame. A local guy made the frames for my buddy and he did everything else. They are spray insulated, you can heat them with a candle. He has sold both of the blue frame shacks since those pictures and now has a crank down v-nose 12' that he built. his new one is modeled after an Ice Castle brand shack. I don't have a picture of his but here is an internet picture of an Ice Castle. you can spend some serious coin on them.

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Old 12-28-2018, 08:23 AM   #96 (permalink)
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Those plows are really stout!

I'm curious about the lower mounting points and running supports all the way back to mid-frame. I've seen that on heavy-duty plow trucks before, but never on a pickup. I assume it's just to spread the load out more on the frame from the 'pushing' load, but I'm curious about your experience with it. Absent that support, do these plows take out front frame rails?
I haven't seen a lake plow truck that doesn't have the supports running back to the mid frame, so I can't attest to what happens without it. Personally, I'm skeptical that it's necessary, but I'd rather err on the side of caution.

The shop that I found that makes plows/frames one state over doesn't use the longer supports, so I know it's possible to run without them.
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Old 12-28-2018, 09:33 AM   #97 (permalink)
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With the crumple zones in today's frames, if you don't brace them, the plows will tweak the frame if you hit something solid. Even before the crumple zone frames if you hit something bad enough you would tweak the frame. Not an uncommon occurrence around here with the snow plow monkeys.
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Old 12-28-2018, 10:48 AM   #98 (permalink)
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Yes, I know I sound like a guy from Texas, but I'm surprised you don't have to hang another truck off the wrecker just to keep that giant plow from making the back wheels come off the ground. I'm always in awe when I see stuff from up north. Rusted through frames and all that white stuff on the ground are not anything I have much experience with.
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Old 12-31-2018, 06:52 AM   #99 (permalink)
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I used the 85 to push some snow and also took it on a 1.5 hour round trip with the sled trailer to pick up some new furniture for the living room the other day.

Pushing snow at the shop (my edit skills are terrible, I know)
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Home with the new furniture. The wife was quite happy I used the truck to get something she wanted, for once.
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Old 12-31-2018, 11:24 AM   #100 (permalink)
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Those runner shacks aren't as popular around here. Most guys run wheeled shacks with suspension on them because it allows you to use them like a regular enclosed trailer in the off season. This way you're not investing $$$ into something you can only use for a couple months. Plus you can easily pull even big shacks with a four wheeler. These are my buddy's shacks.
Man, I'm liking that wheeled shack design. Got me thinking of building one to load my Adventure Bikes in and for use as a home base camper when the wife wants to go camping and riding with me. She refuses to ride more than a few hours on the motorcycles, so cross country touring is out of the question. The lowered floor would negate the need for steps, ramps or a ladder to get in or out of it.

My buddies and I ride them there, but she has to have a shack, camper or Hotel room if she goes with us and that also means a pickup pulling a trailer.

Interesting build on the 1st trailer. I have a similar but longer set up. (30' Bed and MH Axles) I'm thinking of mounting my floor crossways too since the vehicle wheels contact points will be over the main frame rails of the trailer and so no falling through.
Those LED Marker lights with dimmers and variable colors could come in handy. I am currently building a receiver hitch mount for my 12,000 winch my wife bought me for Christmas. Overkill, but there will be little question if I can pull up a buddies rolled Land Rover with 2 blown tires on the trailer again if I need to.

Snow round here that's the stuff they put in cones and pour juice flavors over.

Oh almost forgot, I have a plow on my tractor! It's for leveling out the driveway rocks!
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