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Old 06-23-2007, 08:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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How big of a winch do I need? (Trailer mounted)

So I went and rescued my sister in laws POS lebaron convertible today, and the only way I had to get the rolling turd on my trailer was a me powered chain fall.
That's just too damned much work for a lazy fawk like me.
So I want to go ahead with my idea to mount a winch under the deck of the trailer, and set up a series of pulleys to get the cable on the deck.
The most I'd ever have to pull is a big pick up truck. I want something that could handle about 150' of useable cable, so I could double it through a block if I need to pull something really stubborn.
I know the generic PBB answer will be "The biggest you can afford!!"
But realistically, do I really need a 15,000# winch?
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Old 06-23-2007, 08:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Also, What are my options as far as controls? I don't want to have to crawl under the trailer just to change directions, and stuff.
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Old 06-23-2007, 09:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
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What are the local tow trucks running?

If you are pulling rolling weight, I would think 9k Lbs would be good with a snatch block.

If you are trying to drag a vehicle or scrap on a daily basis, I would aim for 12k Lbs.

For durability, I think Warn has a winch with a remote mount solenoid, allowing a simple cable hook-up for realiability.

I am thinking about doing this as well on my trailer. Post up a project post.

I saw someone's project on here earlier somewhere. They put a winch and battery in a truck box on the trailer deck.
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Old 06-23-2007, 10:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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I've been using a 9,000LB harbor freight winch (the type that can be attacked to a ball hitch) for over 3 years just fine to drag all sorts of cars onto my trailer. Some without air in the tires and sliding up the ramps on there belly. I bolted it down to the trailer deck and its probably done at least 10 disabled vehicles and one scrap blazer with its axles removed.

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Old 06-24-2007, 01:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I used a Harbor freight 2k winch to pull a f150 with almost flat tires on my trailer with no problems, didn't need a a snatch block either. The brake is what sucked especially when unloading the truck. I finally upgraded to an 8k HF winch but I haven't used it yet. I would recommend a 5k-9k winch depending on your budget and make sure it has a good brake.
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Old 06-24-2007, 02:31 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I've been using a Harbor Freight 2 K ball mount winch on my trailer for years.
I throw it in the front trailer box when I'm not using it and have a heavy duty set of long jumper cables that I hook to the truck battery with the hood up. Lost count of the vehicles it's dragged onto my trailer over the years. I also carry a plug in tire pump to air up the loads tires. As long as the tires have air in them it will pull almost anything up. Rolling loads don't weigh that much. Couple times I had to help it over the hump by turing the knob with my hand as it pulls. But thats been rare. If it's a really big heavy SOB I double the line with a good snatch block. If I have to have more line I use a snatch block or strap. Have been known to hold the load with a tie down strap and grab another bite.

The best part I like about the ball mount hitch is I don't always use it on my trailer. And when I moved last time I strapped the winch off to a tree while I pulled one of my junkers out of a back yard I could not get my Dodge truck and trailer close to.

I do have several other winches I can use including an 10k, an 8K and a 5K. But for loading rolling junk. The 2 K will do just fine. Plus it's so versatile. Only draw back is it doesn't power out. That's the only thing I don't like about it. If I get a load stuck up half way I have to strap it off before I let the winch drum loose. Other than that, no problem.

Best $65 bucks I've ever spent. It's recovered rigs for friends while they stand there scatching their heads.

Course this is just a hobby for me.

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Old 06-24-2007, 03:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I'm not going to say that cost isn't a concern, but I don't mind spending the money to get the equipment to do the job.
The main thing I want, is ALL functions controlled from the remote. I plan on mounting this under the deck, so It would only be accessible for maintenence and repairs.
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Old 06-24-2007, 03:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89breaker View Post

I saw someone's project on here earlier somewhere. They put a winch and battery in a truck box on the trailer deck.
You mean this one?





Its an 8K Tabor (by Warn) that I scavenged off my CJ-5 after I built the new bumper.
Works really well!

Camarogenius, I wouldn't go any smaller than a 6K winch for your uses. I've burned up 8 of the cheepies hauling scrap on this trailer, and now I won't go back! The no power out is dangerous (the way I use it) to unload rigs, and (again for my uses) isn't nearly enough to move some of the stuff I haul.
If you have a deck-over trailer, get a 8 or 9K just to get rigs up onto the deck. More is better, cause having to help your winch load a truck with a come-a-long SUCKS! BTDT!

As for a pulley system? I wouldn't. The resulting drag off the pulleys will weaken the whole set-up. Mount it to the tongue for a straight-line pull. By far the strongest way to do it. IF you are mounting to a gooseneck type, mount it low (deck-height), but mount a snatch block to the upper deck for high pulls. Thats the ONLY pulley I'd use.
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Old 06-25-2007, 07:56 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I've had an 8k Harbor Frieght winch on my trailers (I switch it between my bumper pull and goose) for about 3 years and probably 100 pulls. Just used it yesterday, and needed the power out because was unloading a truck with no brakes heading downhill.

The winch has been great, and I double-line it with a snatch block when dragging someing with no axles onto the trailer.

I used the Harbor Freight 2k cheap winch before getting this 8k, and it worked, but got real slow sometimes, and I tripped some kind of thermal overload several times and had to wait for it to cool (which is a nice feature, rather than burning up the winch). But I really need the power-out, and to be able to drag stuff with no axles.
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Old 06-25-2007, 12:41 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I have used 8k to drag up a rolled 91 dodge diesel with no problems. I am going to get one of the Smittybuilt 8k winches for mine since it is under $300.
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Old 06-25-2007, 02:29 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I use an 8k chinese winch, it's worked fine for years. I would recommended welding a hoop on the back of the trailer that you can hook a snatch block on so you can run the cable through that and back to the front of the vehicle to pull them off the trailer, also. I've needed to use mine that way a few times.
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Old 06-25-2007, 03:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I asked this question a few times, I was always told for pulling a vehicle on tires (no extra drag/resistance) that half the weight of the vehicle was good for the winch rating. You can always snatch it. If you anticipate dragging a non-rolling load up on it pretty often, then get the heavier winch.

Also found out that you can easily mount a truck battery on the trailer, and wire it into the 12v source for your trailer brakes/break away battery, and it will keep the battery charged at 12v without needing to string out jumper cables.
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Old 06-25-2007, 05:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72hiboy4x4 View Post
You mean this one?





Its an 8K Tabor (by Warn) that I scavenged off my CJ-5 after I built the new bumper.
Works really well!

Camarogenius, I wouldn't go any smaller than a 6K winch for your uses. I've burned up 8 of the cheepies hauling scrap on this trailer, and now I won't go back! The no power out is dangerous (the way I use it) to unload rigs, and (again for my uses) isn't nearly enough to move some of the stuff I haul.
If you have a deck-over trailer, get a 8 or 9K just to get rigs up onto the deck. More is better, cause having to help your winch load a truck with a come-a-long SUCKS! BTDT!

As for a pulley system? I wouldn't. The resulting drag off the pulleys will weaken the whole set-up. Mount it to the tongue for a straight-line pull. By far the strongest way to do it. IF you are mounting to a gooseneck type, mount it low (deck-height), but mount a snatch block to the upper deck for high pulls. Thats the ONLY pulley I'd use.

That isn't the one but same idea.
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Old 06-25-2007, 07:50 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I really have no choice as far as mounting location. The area between the uprights on my goose is where my chaind and binders hang. On top of my goose is where my spare tires and foldable ladder ride.
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Old 07-02-2007, 10:16 PM   #15 (permalink)
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So there is no room in front of the chain and binder storage to put a winch, even 'hanging' between the goose and the tailgate? With the cable sticking in between the chains?
How about a pic of the trailer's goose?
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Old 07-02-2007, 10:51 PM   #16 (permalink)
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put the winch in front of the uprights.

make a 2"x12" box right in front of the fairlead to pass the cable through.

That box will now be the bottom of your storage area and you'll only loose a couple inches of storage space and have full access to the winch.

You could also mount it at the top of the upright and have a pully at the bottom of the uprights to do the same thing.

150' of cable - unless you go synthetic or get smaller diameter but stronger line you are going to be getting the 8274. That's the only one I know with a drum that is large enough for that much 5/16" cable.




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Old 07-03-2007, 08:24 AM   #17 (permalink)
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IMHO, you need a 9k or larger winch on a receiver cradle, with receriver mounts on the neck facing the deck, at the rear of the trailer, under both sides of the trailer near the axles, and on the front and rear of your tow rig.

If you can't figure out why I suggested a cradle mounted winch and those locations, then you suck
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Old 07-03-2007, 12:10 PM   #18 (permalink)
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what about going with a smaller winch and using 2 or 3 snatch blocks if you really need the extra pull?
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Old 07-03-2007, 12:44 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Come to think of it, an 8274 might be perfect.

It's clutch mechanism is push/pull. Not rotate.

So even under the deck you could fab a bar to attach to that and be operated from either side of the trailer as well as an industrial in/out switch.



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Old 07-03-2007, 11:54 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Summit Racing Equipment has started selling ther own line of winches (they look a lot like Warn). They have one model specifically for trailers. The cost was not terrible, around $350 IIRC.
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Old 07-04-2007, 09:46 AM   #21 (permalink)
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On My GN, I have an 8K winch. I don't need a bigger one, since with a snatchblock, it will pull more than the trailer will haul and during a stright line pull, it is more than enough for my 6500 lb rig.

Mine is mounted on the uprights right where the vertical meets the horizontal neck. My spare also rides on the neck. I did this to lessen the chance of the cable cutting into the deck at the dovetail.

I also have an old bed box toolbox mounted on the front of my trailer on the deck, which houses all the wiring and 2 big batteries for the winch. I also added 2 spot lights (1 on each upright) that do double duty as backup lights and as lighting for loading the trailer OR for working beside the trailer (they are moveable for this purpose). The toolbox also has switches for these lights in it so I can turn them on independently, and they are also wired to come on with the b/u lights.

I have a remote control for mine, as it is hard to be in a vehicle steering 25+ feet away from the winch when the hand cable is only 15 ft long. I do keep the hand cable in the toolbox just in case, and it did save the day once when the remote's battery died.



I got my winch at Northern, and it is a ramsey 8k, which while being slow, has worked great so far, with it doing everything from having to winch a dead cherokee from 100 ft away up on to the trailer, to winching a dead 3500 ctd dually up on to the trailer in the snow.

For the money I spent, it was a deal. I no longer have to worry about how to get a dead vehicle up on a deckover 25 ft GN by myself.

The only real drawback to mounting it this way, is when you are winching, you can't fully open the toolbox lid until the load is on the trailer.


here's a pic of what I am talking about


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Old 07-04-2007, 10:24 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Is that trailer a transformer? Two in one?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 72hiboy4x4 View Post
You mean this one?





Its an 8K Tabor (by Warn) that I scavenged off my CJ-5 after I built the new bumper.
Works really well!

Camarogenius, I wouldn't go any smaller than a 6K winch for your uses. I've burned up 8 of the cheepies hauling scrap on this trailer, and now I won't go back! The no power out is dangerous (the way I use it) to unload rigs, and (again for my uses) isn't nearly enough to move some of the stuff I haul.
If you have a deck-over trailer, get a 8 or 9K just to get rigs up onto the deck. More is better, cause having to help your winch load a truck with a come-a-long SUCKS! BTDT!

As for a pulley system? I wouldn't. The resulting drag off the pulleys will weaken the whole set-up. Mount it to the tongue for a straight-line pull. By far the strongest way to do it. IF you are mounting to a gooseneck type, mount it low (deck-height), but mount a snatch block to the upper deck for high pulls. Thats the ONLY pulley I'd use.
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Old 07-04-2007, 08:08 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72hiboy4x4 View Post
So there is no room in front of the chain and binder storage to put a winch, even 'hanging' between the goose and the tailgate? With the cable sticking in between the chains?
How about a pic of the trailer's goose?
Just got in from D.C., and am rolling out for champaign, IL. before daylight. I'll snap some pics tomorrow afternoon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRamChargerMan View Post
On My GN, I have an 8K winch. I don't need a bigger one, since with a snatchblock, it will pull more than the trailer will haul and during a stright line pull, it is more than enough for my 6500 lb rig.

Mine is mounted on the uprights right where the vertical meets the horizontal neck. My spare also rides on the neck. I did this to lessen the chance of the cable cutting into the deck at the dovetail.

I also have an old bed box toolbox mounted on the front of my trailer on the deck, which houses all the wiring and 2 big batteries for the winch. I also added 2 spot lights (1 on each upright) that do double duty as backup lights and as lighting for loading the trailer OR for working beside the trailer (they are moveable for this purpose). The toolbox also has switches for these lights in it so I can turn them on independently, and they are also wired to come on with the b/u lights.

I have a remote control for mine, as it is hard to be in a vehicle steering 25+ feet away from the winch when the hand cable is only 15 ft long. I do keep the hand cable in the toolbox just in case, and it did save the day once when the remote's battery died.



I got my winch at Northern, and it is a ramsey 8k, which while being slow, has worked great so far, with it doing everything from having to winch a dead cherokee from 100 ft away up on to the trailer, to winching a dead 3500 ctd dually up on to the trailer in the snow.

For the money I spent, it was a deal. I no longer have to worry about how to get a dead vehicle up on a deckover 25 ft GN by myself.

The only real drawback to mounting it this way, is when you are winching, you can't fully open the toolbox lid until the load is on the trailer.


here's a pic of what I am talking about

I've thought about mounting one up high like that, but where yours is, I have my chain rack. Also like the tool box for the batteries, but mine would have to go below the deck, as customers often use every inch of my available deck, and that tool box wouldn't be long for this world, after getting beaten up every day by forklift operators, and crane operators.
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Old 07-04-2007, 08:47 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I plan on ,oving the spare to under the deck, and putting a storage box up on the neck, behind the winch, but for now, the box works, and it was free.

My trailer is too long for my rig, but too short to put two rigs on, so I have plenty of room even with the box.

The main thing I don't like about putting the winch under the deck, is it will require pulleys to keep from wearing into the decking or damaging the cable.

I also wanted the winch up high so I didn't loose any deck space, or have to split the toolbox for the cable.

Can you lower your chain rack a few inches so you can get the winch up there ? Mine was easy to mount, as all I did was lay the mounting plate on the round pipe and c-channel that was already there. The angle was dang near perfect.
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Old 07-04-2007, 08:51 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Are you talking about Ken/Bruiser's box on his trailer?

Scroll down about half way to see his mounting pics

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=400236
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