Its all about the little things: Trailer edition - Page 32 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 07-26-2019, 09:50 AM   #776 (permalink)
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20190317_150832 by Angelo Mehtala, on Flickr

built a rack to somewhat protect the tool box, and installed a tool box with a 12k harbor freight winch

20190318_174054 by Angelo Mehtala, on Flickr

20190318_174122 by Angelo Mehtala, on Flickr

if you dont have a winch on your trailer and occasionally use a come a long.Buy a winch!! so much faster and easier.
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Old 07-26-2019, 11:35 AM   #777 (permalink)
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When I built this trailer I went a little overboard on the details, but it was well worth it.
* Switch for work lights with auxiliary charger & voltmeter
* Work Lights
* Vise
* Propane Storage
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Old 07-26-2019, 11:40 AM   #778 (permalink)
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More Details:
* Spare Tire
* Adjustable Tongue
* Ramp Mounts with custom wing nuts
* Lots of Lights
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Old 10-08-2019, 04:43 PM   #779 (permalink)
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Recently rebuilt my homemade 4x8 trailer. Originally used an upside down pontiac 6000 rear axle. Got tired of changing unit bearings. Swapped out for rubber torsion.

While I was at it I lowered my spare mount and added a shoulder eye bolt for winching tie down (there's a second front tie down as well...)

Oh, and welcome to Canada, where even the trailers have studded tires.


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I really like this trailer because it's silent, with very minimal rattle and noise. It's kinda minimalist and I didn't want to add a big stupid clunky wheel jack to the tongue. Instead I welded in a piece of tubing vertical in the tongue that fits a short piece of bolter steel (with bit still attached). I also didn't want a wheel jack since this trailer sees quite a bit of use behind the fourwheeler and those wheel jacks always hit the atv tires when I turn.

Bulletproof and simple. Obviously not for everyone or every trailer.

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Old 10-08-2019, 04:47 PM   #780 (permalink)
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For right now I just used a piece of blasting wire to secure, will use a chain and shackle when it's in use.

Considered using a big fuck-off magnet inside the tongue, but didn't have one kicking around.

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Old 10-11-2019, 08:47 PM   #781 (permalink)
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I added another pin for my trailer ramps (circled in green in 2nd picture). After hauling a truck that was just a tad too long, and having to fight to remove the ramps for the trip home, I told myself I need to make the ramps adjustable. With this position, the ramps lean back far enough to clear most rear bumpers of trucks I am hauling. See 1st picture.

I also drilled another hole in the support bar (the one furthest from the end). For short loads, or empty, I run the ramp in that spot to put the ramp at a farther forward lean. This keeps the ramps from rattling, and it also makes the tail lights on the trailer more visible from the rear. See 2nd picture.

Stock it had 1 position. It now has 4 positions.









Added a quick winch mount. This setup drug a 2007 F450 with a sheared off front knuckle on my trailer (placed a 6x6 under the axle to use as a 'ski' to drag the truck onto the trailer)...so it's plenty strong enough.





Sorry for the shitty pictures. My trailer is parked in a tight spot.
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Old 10-12-2019, 06:06 AM   #782 (permalink)
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Drill drain hole in that C-channel you caveman.
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Old 10-12-2019, 06:37 AM   #783 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arse_sidewards View Post
Drill drain hole in that C-channel you caveman.
You think the red reflective sticker under the rub rail is rusty water?
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Old 10-12-2019, 08:10 AM   #784 (permalink)
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You think the red reflective sticker under the rub rail is rusty water?
No but you leave those ramps facing up, life happens for a couple months and then you've got rust that won't go away until you take it back down to bare steel and paint again. Some quality time with a 1/8 drill bit would make that a non-issue.
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Old 10-14-2019, 04:46 AM   #785 (permalink)
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Drill drain hole in that C-channel you caveman.
The ramps only stay in that position while transporting a truck. Otherwise, they are always leaned forward (2nd pic) so water cannot puddle.

It's 4 years old and not a spec of rust on the painted parts
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Old 10-17-2019, 11:18 AM   #786 (permalink)
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One of my favorite threads on Pirate; just got done re-reading the entire thing. I'm just wrapping up an 18' car trailer overhaul and I'm down to the wiring. I was wondering if anyone has used one of the trailer light converter boxes in reverse to enable separate brake and turn signals on the trailer when coming from a vehicle where they are combined? Reason being is that I'd like to use the (3 wire) side markers as signals as well. It wouldn't be the end of the world if they brightened up with the brake lights also but I thought it might look a little goofy.
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Old 10-17-2019, 12:52 PM   #787 (permalink)
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That's not how that works.

from an automotive connector that only has left and right bright signals you don't know brake from anything else that's bright.
Run your repeaters, it's better. easy to see that lights are always working too. doesn't bother a bit that they go bright on braking as well.
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Old 10-17-2019, 03:24 PM   #788 (permalink)
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and having to fight to remove the ramps for the trip home
I just jam a floor mat between the bumper and ramps and ratchet strap them to whatever is too long on the trailer.
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Old 10-26-2019, 12:59 PM   #789 (permalink)
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Got a maxxd dump trailer, that I love, except for a few things. One of them is what they give you for tiedowns in the back. D rings (which I hate) that are mounted the wrong way on the sidewalls. Tightening the binders down, you can see the side wall flexing.



I had a few different ideas on adding those flush pop up chain anchors, which are neat, but I didn't know how well they would work with dirt and sand in the box. I also thought about a slot just big enough for the chain hook, then maybe some kind of rubber or spring loaded flap to keep spilling somewhat limited.

Finally, I went as simple as possible, and I'm pretty happy with it.



It's just 1/4x2 with a slight bend and taper to try to prevent shit from catching on it.

I'm still debating whether to change the front or not, it's got rings also, but they're on the floor at a 45*

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Old 10-26-2019, 05:01 PM   #790 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YotaAtieToo View Post
Got a maxxd dump trailer, that I love, except for a few things. One of them is what they give you for tiedowns in the back. D rings (which I hate) that are mounted the wrong way on the sidewalls. Tightening the binders down, you can see the side wall flexing.



I had a few different ideas on adding those flush pop up chain anchors, which are neat, but I didn't know how well they would work with dirt and sand in the box. I also thought about a slot just big enough for the chain hook, then maybe some kind of rubber or spring loaded flap to keep spilling somewhat limited.

Finally, I went as simple as possible, and I'm pretty happy with it.



It's just 1/4x2 with a slight bend and taper to try to prevent shit from catching on it.

I'm still debating whether to change the front or not, it's got rings also, but they're on the floor at a 45*
I like that. Good job, I love minimalist/low profile stuff.

I do think however, that the pull pots would work perfectly. (Assuming you mean the chains welded to a circle of steel that you lift out of the floor, just like the ones in concrete floors for frame straightening).
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Old 10-27-2019, 03:41 PM   #791 (permalink)
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I like that. Good job, I love minimalist/low profile stuff.

I do think however, that the pull pots would work perfectly. (Assuming you mean the chains welded to a circle of steel that you lift out of the floor, just like the ones in concrete floors for frame straightening).
Thanks

Ya, that's what I was talking about. They make them for trailers also. I was just a little worried that something catching it while dumping. I'm also not sure if they would stay in place when the trailer is at 80* or whatever.
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