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Old 02-11-2013, 07:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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just bought an ftoy

It was all there just needs built, it has the 84 motor and harness and I need help wiring it, wasnt sure if there was a diagram to help? or someone is local to shamokin pa who can help me out?
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:48 PM   #2 (permalink)
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congrats. you got the best wheeler for your money hands down. its easy and simple to wire the carb motor up. using a one wire alt. makes it even simpler. there are 2 different ignitors i think. with different colored wires. i think i made a thread about it 10 years ago, lol. let me see if i can find it. i might be in PA in a couple months. hit me up and i will come help you out anyway i can.


edit: found it. as you can see in this thread, i went thru the same thing. all the answers should be in there. also, plug all the vacume lines except for 2. the one in the side of the carb that goes to the advance. thats it.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...o-harness.html


also to make your carb run at almost any angles. put a fuel pressure regualtor between pump and carb. put it on about 2.5. then also vent the carb so it don't flood. run a stock carb too. then install a hand throttle on the shifter to keep the rpm up when you are on a steep climb. no one willl ever know its a carb.
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Now, Get to work.
They are very capable. I absolutely love mine. Every time I take it out, it keeps impressing me. Lets see some pics of what you got.
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:42 AM   #4 (permalink)
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hey do you have any pictures of everything you wired?

also I only need the carb, ignitor and dist hooked up to ? if so awesome haha


but here she is




has a marlin crawler dual stick
marlin crawler high steer
on board air
kelly 35's
spoil in the rear, welded Detroit in the front(busted)
3 five point harness's

thats all I can think of right now
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:06 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I beleive you have a F-Toy copy. I may be wrong but all Hendrix Chassis have the "X" in the A-Pillar.
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I beleive you have a F-Toy copy. I may be wrong but all Hendrix Chassis have the "X" in the A-Pillar.
Damn good copy if it is one.
Grinder marks at the bottom of the a-pillar where the PO might have cut those gussets out?

Ditch the plastic seats and at least get some Beards or Corbeaus....ideally MasterCrafts or PRP's. FToys don't have a ton of suspension travel, and a good suspension seat might save your back if you really bottom out. Trust me, I know.

Always wear your harnesses. Always. Even backing into the garage, driving onto a trailer, or on an easy trail. RIP Kevin Rothmann.

Best 2 pieces of advice in any FToy build:
1)Mount the seats with pins in double shear (two tabs at each corner). Use quick-release harness clips.

2) Cycle the front suspension and make sure you don't hit your diff/ram on your lower crank pulley, lower coolant hose, or radiator.

Have fun. We're always here to answer questions if you have any.
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I beleive you have a F-Toy copy. I may be wrong but all Hendrix Chassis have the "X" in the A-Pillar.
No they don't. Looks legit to me. Where is this rig located? If its East coast there should be a number stamped on the chassis elbow bar.
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Old 02-12-2013, 03:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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No they don't. Looks legit to me. Where is this rig located? If its East coast there should be a number stamped on the chassis elbow bar.
Im just saying, I have never seen one without the "X" in the A Pillar. West coast or East coast. Whats the number on the one from the OP? Yours has the "X", #522 is East coast and he also has the "X".
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Old 02-12-2013, 04:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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is it just me or is the spreader on the driver side too close the the A pillar and the pass spreader is more correct?
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:48 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Well this thing sat like this for 6-8 years so it could be an old model, i just need some pictures of the wiring and id be set? Possibly pictures were i can find the stamp, im a newb when it comes to witing from scratch and what each pillar and bar is called and its in pennsylvania
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:59 AM   #11 (permalink)
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No they don't. Looks legit to me. Where is this rig located? If its East coast there should be a number stamped on the chassis elbow bar.
If it's in PA, probably a good chance you touched it...and it should have the stamp if it doesn't have the X gusset.


Quote:
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is it just me or is the spreader on the driver side too close the the A pillar and the pass spreader is more correct?
The upside-down v in the windshield? Just looks like camera angle to me?



If it's a copy, it's a decent one, and an FToy newb would probably have no way of knowing for sure when he stroked the check and bought it from the previous owner. If it is a copy, this appears to be an honest guy who got taken--instead of a shammer who is trying to pass off his backyard tubework as something that came out of the Hendrix shop. We're all quick to defend Mike against copycats; as we should--he's a good guy, and the design is his intellectual property--but I'd advocate that we cut this guy some slack.

boysher, have you read all the other FToy builds? Most of the other carbuereted FToys would have been in the 001-040 range from back in ~2005-2008. Since then, they've generally all been EFI and a few on propane. Also search in the main Toyota Pickup and 4Runner forum for "one wire alternator". You'll get a lot more hits than you will just in FToys. The 22R isn't FToy-specific!

Welcome, by the way!
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:11 PM   #12 (permalink)
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It may be an early one, #501 didnt have the gussets. I think I was told the first batch #500-506 didnt have them? Here is a pic of 501 when I had it.


Last edited by Whiten; 02-13-2013 at 01:14 PM.
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:28 PM   #13 (permalink)
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It may be an early one, #501 didnt have the gussets. I think I was told the first batch #500-506 didnt have them? Here is a pic of 501 when I had it.

That looks like a copy also. Well there ya go then.

I have heard the ones that are back east come from a different builder (not Hendrix) but to his specs and his permission. For shipping cost. Any truth to this?
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:46 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Hendrix bends them then ships 6 or 7 at a time to a east coast vendor that has a jig to weld them up. I have chassis 527 now and it has the X-gussets.
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Old 02-13-2013, 02:24 PM   #15 (permalink)
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That looks like a copy also. Well there ya go then.

I have heard the ones that are back east come from a different builder (not Hendrix) but to his specs and his permission. For shipping cost. Any truth to this?
no, mtbrjon from memphis is the vendor and he builds them according to the same specs as all the other chassis
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Old 02-13-2013, 02:44 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I bought my last chassis (527) from skonkerd on this board , Poor Boyz Off Road . He is in north Ga.
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:37 PM   #17 (permalink)
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does it matter? its a ftoy so thanks to a2b, got me in the right direction today, im still going to take better photos and then go nice and slow until its all ready to run, working on the brake lines, and still need a gas pedal, some heims to get the steering up and going. but its a fun build!
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:43 PM   #18 (permalink)
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507 has the "x".
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:14 PM   #19 (permalink)
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one way to tell. most knock offs dont spend the extra time it takes to make a bend at the top of the windshield spreaders to keep in with the lines of the A pillar. its small things like this that seperates the pros from the amatuers
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:10 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I have chassis #079 and it has no gussets on the A-pillar. It is also only tacked together, not fully welded.
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:45 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Wiring the carb engine will be easy. Get a factory Toyota repair manual that covers the early trucks. I found one a while back on EBay for cheap. I personally wouldn't use any of the factory harness beside what I needed specific for like the alternator. You'll need a keyed on wire to the coil and obviously to the starter solenoid. Wire for the oil pressure switch or gauge if you are running one. The carb has a couple connections on it. You need keyed power to those as well. Make sure you have a good ground strap to the block and that there's no paint or rust keeping it from making good contact. Most builders use a master cutoff switch that's easy to reach while belted in. This switch needs to kill all electrical when turned off so make sure you get the "4 pole" type and put the alternator side of the power and the ignition on side where they are separated when this switch is off. Otherwise the alternator will keep the engine running even if you separate the battery from the circuit. If you get confused with that part send me a and I can send you a couple wiring diagrams.
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Old 02-21-2013, 06:44 AM   #22 (permalink)
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It says you have too many messages, but im interested in the diagrams. Thanks if tou can message me them
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Old 02-21-2013, 06:47 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Sorry I can't figure out how to clear my pm box with this dang phone. I'll get it done later and draw you up some easy to read diag.
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Old 02-21-2013, 07:04 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Awesome thanks a ton! Its much appreciated
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:59 PM   #25 (permalink)
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See if this makes sense to you.

I left out the starter push button switch. I tried to change the pic but my phone is being a dick. I'll pm the corrected version to you.
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