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Old 08-17-2013, 05:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
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FTOY frame question

I have a somewhat silly question. I know the "correct" way to build an FTOY is to move the motor back 6-8 inches and set it up flatbelly. Well Im lazy and was wondering if its possible to just remove the body/tub off my current rig and weld an ftoy chassis further forward on the frame, if needed extend the front of the frame. I have no intention of building a comp legal rig, Im just looking to build a party rated trail rig.

I got a chance to pickup an ftoy chassis from a buddy of mine and figured this would be the quickest way to lighten up my current pig.

Suggestions and flames are greatly appreciated
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Old 08-17-2013, 09:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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This is how the builder of my FToy set it up. Seems to work fine, but would've preferred to be able to mount a winch behind the radiator and I worry sometimes about the tie rod hitting the oil pan if I'm bombing a dirt road or something. Nice thing is you can use a lot of bolt on parts like motor mounts, xfer case cross member.

Had I built this one, I would've moved the engine back, but I'm not going to do it now thats its already done
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:58 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dychen View Post
I have a somewhat silly question. I know the "correct" way to build an FTOY is to move the motor back 6-8 inches and set it up flatbelly. Well Im lazy and was wondering if its possible to just remove the body/tub off my current rig and weld an ftoy chassis further forward on the frame, if needed extend the front of the frame. I have no intention of building a comp legal rig, Im just looking to build a party rated trail rig.

I got a chance to pickup an ftoy chassis from a buddy of mine and figured this would be the quickest way to lighten up my current pig.

Suggestions and flames are greatly appreciated
I look at the tcase mount as having to be redone regardless. So its just 2 motor mounts. And changing it later is not going to be possible. Move the motor back 8" now.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:46 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Dychen View Post
I have a somewhat silly question. I know the "correct" way to build an FTOY is to move the motor back 6-8 inches and set it up flatbelly. Well Im lazy and was wondering if its possible to just remove the body/tub off my current rig and weld an ftoy chassis further forward on the frame, if needed extend the front of the frame. I have no intention of building a comp legal rig, Im just looking to build a party rated trail rig.

I got a chance to pickup an ftoy chassis from a buddy of mine and figured this would be the quickest way to lighten up my current pig.

Suggestions and flames are greatly appreciated
man don't let yourself get boxed in by what is "correct". there is no "correct" way to do anything. do what you want. who said flat belly was correct?

that said, there is advice you should probably take heed of.

lets get one thing straight, it is not a fast process by any means to take your body off and put on the chassis. in no way shape or form is that a fast process. it sounds quick but its not, you are still building a buggy. therefore, considering the 100s or 1000s of man hours that will be put into it, moving the motor back is one of the easy and quickest things to do out of all the task to be done.

and if its not done, you can't do it later and it will great consquences on your buggy build. even more than weight distribution, the main benefit is like room for your winch and clearence for steering linkage/ram when suspension is stuffed, etc...
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Old 08-31-2013, 10:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Next silly question (and yes I've spent many of hours cracking out on the the internet searching)

Would you use a factory frame or make one yourself if you were to build a ftoy today? I was reading the rocklimo thread and it seems like it worked great.
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Old 09-01-2013, 03:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Next silly question (and yes I've spent many of hours cracking out on the the internet searching)

Would you use a factory frame or make one yourself if you were to build a ftoy today? I was reading the rocklimo thread and it seems like it worked great.
The only reason I would build a custom frame would be for some out of the box suspension setups which would be for racing. For trail rides I would use the factory frame. It should be lighter than what you custom build and that's a plus. But if you don't have a frame, them just do what you have to. Just don't rush it. Take a year or more if you have to and get it done right.
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Old 09-01-2013, 09:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Don't do it.... You'll want the runner for camping trips with your new baby. Congrats btw brother.
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Old 09-02-2013, 12:51 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Don't do it.... You'll want the runner for camping trips with your new baby. Congrats btw brother.
Thank you very much bother. I hear you on keeping the runner, the problems Im running into are even being a giant vajaja with the skinny petal I keep breaking crap and while my poop pipe cage works wonderfully for keeping rocks from destroying my body, a cargo rack and a prime example of how not to build an exo skeleton, I dont trust it with precious cargo onboard. Im thinking a light weight buggy with a chassis built by a professional would be the easiest way to keep my drivetrain together and protect the family.

What I envision doing is building something like humbugs buggy, IE leaf sprung toyota buggy with a windshield and a top for winter runs.
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Old 09-02-2013, 02:37 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Shoulda kept the Sami.... Nothing quick about a build. I remember when Scott pulled his cab and thought he'd be done in 3 months. I can't talk though, I have not been able to finish any build for over 3 years. 1st gen runner with a good internal cage?
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Old 09-02-2013, 07:17 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Shoulda kept the Sami.... Nothing quick about a build. I remember when Scott pulled his cab and thought he'd be done in 3 months. I can't talk though, I have not been able to finish any build for over 3 years. 1st gen runner with a good internal cage?
Getting rid of the sami made sense at the time, I thought I could be a responsible adult and keep a street wheeler together, I was wrong

I know your right about the build time, takes me forever to build/fix anything. I almost bought one of the 4x innovation internal cages, but the fear I had was keeping the body straight enough to keep the windshield and put the top back on. Nevermind i'd still be full on lead turd status.

Going from a sami to a sami buggy to my full bodied 4runner was an interesting change. Spent a few trips on the trail going "why am I so gay? I've spent the money" being the complete trail tampoon/fag-a-tron, before realizing/learning that I needed to take different lines given my wheel-base and weight.

All that being said, i know you built one of the first F-Toy's, what did and didnt work for you about it?
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Old 09-02-2013, 07:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Timing... We wanted to buy a house (buggy was a better investment looking back) and it sat 20+ days out of the month. Mine was actually the first non-conformula, I built from scratch with only a section of toy frame and a reduction box being Toyota parts. The concept is great for someone with a smashed trail rig, looking to go to the next level. For the time and cost of tube, it cannot be beat as long as you don't mind the styling. The process is not fast, unless you're Hobie but by the time he re-did everything the first time, he had a ton of hours into it. Packing gear for a young family would be near impossible. The chassis would have required a fair amount of work to add a 3rd seat as well.

If breakage is your problem, I'd start there. Your rig is heavy and I'm guessing you have larger than 37" tires? That's a lot for toy axles. Shedding weight on a 2nd gen runner is hard, while keeping the elements out. May just need bigger axles?
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Ok, so it was more of a personal/financial choice then "this thing is crap".

As far as packing for the family, my thought was to extend the roof back to make more room for a rear seat, leaving just enough room for a fuel cell with an ice chest rack and maybe a ammo can or two for tools/parts. Everything else would go on the roof. Here is a picture of how we did it a couple years back with 5 people in my rig



Surprisingly it was still quite stable, stable enough that I could still do some pretty stupid things. I thought about going to 60's, but when I ran the cost and all the other hassle that goes along with it, i figured it would be better to build something lighter using what I already got.
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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For some reason, I thought you had a 2nd gen You need to step down to 37's. keep the 39's for the snow if you must. I can beat on my Sami with sticky 37" trep's. I won't run larger in the summer, but will in the snow.
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:41 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Biggest reason I went to 39's in teh first place was the sidewall flex, to make up for the rough riding 4 inch TG springs. Made a HUGE difference in comfort on the trail.

The other question I had is for the norcal trails, whats everyones thoughts on running 110+ wb? Coming from sami's it seems like a terrible idea, but I just picked up a rear disco so I've been wondering if that would make it more viable. Reason why I ask is I've been thinking of the formula 4 might be a good call for the extra backseat room.
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:53 PM   #15 (permalink)
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My Ftoy buggy was 110" and beater buggy was 112'" wheel with a guy that is 10'. Toy xcabs will be 113-124" iirc. No issues

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Old 11-21-2013, 09:58 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I went to 115 when I linked my 4Runner and love it but I also went to tons and 42's so that factors into the set up as well.
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