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Old 10-30-2010, 06:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Build order?

Hi, my name is JD. I have been a lurker for a while on the F- Toy forum. I just got my donor rig today and i'm looking forward to my build.
I have read many of the build threads. From those of you who have built a f-toy, what is the proper order? From start to finish? I want to avoid having to redo work that has already been done.
Anything you would have done differently?
Thanks ahead of time.
Flame on!
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Old 10-30-2010, 08:34 PM   #2 (permalink)
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That's a great question actually.

Prep Frame

Get suspension in place *make roller*

Get drivetrain right

Weld on FToy

Wire/Plumb

Floors/Skins
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Old 10-30-2010, 08:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wngrog View Post
That's a great question actually.

Prep Frame

Get suspension in place *make roller*

Get drivetrain right

Weld on FToy

Wire/Plumb

Floors/Skins

even easier..... just buy Nolen's
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Old 10-30-2010, 09:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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sweet! im on step 4.5!
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Old 10-31-2010, 11:11 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wngrog View Post
Get suspension in place *make roller*

Get drivetrain right
And before you weld everything: cycle your suspension with only the main leaf in place, and make sure your front axle/assist ram don't hit your lower crank pulley or your lower coolant line. Ask me how I know.

Also check your rear driveline angle. If it's too steep, you need to consider a L52 (short) tranny, move your rear axle back, or lower the t-case.
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Old 10-31-2010, 11:43 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by wngrog View Post
That's a great question actually.

Prep Frame

Get suspension in place *make roller*

Get drivetrain right

Tack on or mock up FToy

Mock up seats then adjust chassis height or notch fame to fit seats properly. Most builders don't leave enough head room, Ask me how I know. You need at least 4" between your helmeted head and the upper bars.

Wire/Plumb

Floors/Skins
Fixed it for ya.
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Old 10-31-2010, 05:54 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the info. Keep the tips coming.
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Old 11-01-2010, 06:54 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Tack everything before you weld anything.

Put your seat mounts in double-shear and mount the seats with quick pins instead of bolts. Mount your harnesses with clips instead of bolts. During the build (and after), you will appreciate being able to pull and replace your seats in 3 minutes instead of 30.
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Old 11-01-2010, 11:20 AM   #9 (permalink)
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If you put a floor in the rear, make sure you can remove the tcase. We had the floor in tight, and when we broke the rear output at a comp, we had to cut everything out to get the spare in. We are now very versed at changing a tcase. We can get it out and back in in under 45 min
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Old 11-01-2010, 02:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wngrog View Post
That's a great question actually.

Prep Frame

Get suspension in place *make roller*

Get drivetrain right

Weld on FToy

Wire/Plumb

Floors/Skins
Interesting thought. We did:
-figure seat relative to chassis. Then chassis relative to frame.
-cut frame, clean up.
-place drivetrain, axles at full bump (no springs yet)
-adjust/ tweak from there.

We opted to place axles, with axles in place to keep tires out of the chassis tubes, that may of these rigs hit.
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Old 11-01-2010, 06:18 PM   #11 (permalink)
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It seems to me like all the numbers have been run on these things so if you are sticking with the "formula" then there should not be a big need to worry about the suspension hitting anything.

Of course, that is the salesman in me. I did not build mine, but from other rigs I have done, that is the order that we did them.
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