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Old 03-23-2011, 02:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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IFS-Toy

Its time for me to start my build thread. I think there might be some interest.
My name is JD. I have been reading up on all the f-toys for a year or 2 now.
I am more into playing in desert then on the rocks. I loved the idea of the F-toy, but i wanted it to be more desert oriented.
This build is mainly for my family to cruise the desert and me to be stupid with a cage around me. My daughter is getting older and my wife is bored sitting around camp while i ride. So this is my build.

92' extracab

Drivetrain - chevy 4.3 (carbed for now)/ t350/ toy doublers w/stock gearing

Total chaos front with C/O's

Most likely Deavers in the rear. I have thought about trailing arms and links but i want to keep this as simple as possible.
I'm looking at 12" in front and 14+ in the rear.

33"s, maybe 35"s. I want the front end to survive. I know a few guys are working on some stout IFS parts right now, but until the tech is there and prices come down i will use the stock stuff. Or I have to replace it.
Anybody need a test mule for your products?!

This is my first attempt at anything this involved. Bear with me. I welcome your input into design, parts, and ideas.
I need this thing to perform well enough to keep up with my buddies mid travel baja!
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Old 03-23-2011, 03:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Sweet!! About time somebody stop talking about doing this and actually did it! When you get this thing done and are ready for some action shots hit me up!
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Old 03-23-2011, 03:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Will do.
I forgot to mention that i am shooting for a 108" - 110" WB.
I am thinking longer is better for the go fast stuff but i do need to keep within the boundries of the f-toy chassis.
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Old 03-23-2011, 03:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Not sure what you are looking at, but Id look at getting the engine decently back in the chassis. FWIW, our ftoy is 106 WB, front axle is forward 4.5" I think, drivetrain back 8", and weight sits at 1600 Front, 1100 Rear.
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Old 03-23-2011, 05:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Personally I would like to see the motor a 22re or 3rz but everything else you have posted sounds right on the mark.

Will you use a fiberglass cab and bed skins ?
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Old 03-23-2011, 05:59 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Personally I would like to see the motor a 22re or 3vz
Dear god I hope you meant 3rz.
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Old 03-23-2011, 06:17 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Will do.
I forgot to mention that i am shooting for a 108" - 110" WB.
I am thinking longer is better for the go fast stuff but i do need to keep within the boundries of the f-toy chassis.
Mine is looking like right at 116/118", and I can't figure out how to make it shorter
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Old 03-23-2011, 07:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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DRM are you running a F-4 chassis? I have the regular formula chassis.

I am playing around with chassis placement front to rear. I pushed the chassis back 2"-4" to push the chassis over arch part of the frame. I also layed the front hoop back at the same angle as the "A" piller. I like the way it looks and it gives me room up front.
Here is the problem i am having with running long travel deavers (61.5") long. Even with pushing the chassis back, the front spring hanger would be around 10"+ into the flat part of the frame and the rear spring eye would still extend past the rear chassis bar by a few inches. The extracab frame needs to be sectioned 6"s or the chassis needs about 6"s added to it. Any suggestions? Not sure if i can run shorter springs and get the travel i want.
Or maybe build a tire carrier off the back to cover the fact that the frame extends past the chassis?

How do i seperate the pictures so i can write between them?
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Old 03-23-2011, 07:58 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Pictures: Sign up for a free account at photobucket.com upload your pictures there, and post them in your thread

IMG]http://yourlinkfromphotobucket.jpg[/IMG] <---use the 'insert picture button'

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Old 03-23-2011, 08:00 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Sorry for the bad light, but hopefully you get the idea for a frenched hanger like this.

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Old 03-23-2011, 08:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Here is a better picture of a frenched rear hanger...

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 03-23-2011, 08:31 PM   #12 (permalink)
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DRM are you running a F-4 chassis? I have the regular formula chassis.
Nope, regular formula chassis as well.
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Old 03-24-2011, 03:24 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Sell the 2 seater and get a 4 seater. You're going to need the extra room for a large fuel cell, pumper, and all the other stuff you'll need for KOH. Then configure so you can swap in a bench for the family.
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Old 03-24-2011, 08:45 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Sell the 2 seater and get a 4 seater. You're going to need the extra room for a large fuel cell, pumper, and all the other stuff you'll need for KOH. Then configure so you can swap in a bench for the family.
This /\
The 4 seater is about 12inches longer. The extra room is so worth it and it would solve the frame length issue. You should have no problem keeping up with the bugs...well maybe. Those things are crazy! Remember to keep it light weight. I would push the engine back as far as you can. Better front to rear weight balance.


My 2 seater Ftoy is at 112.5 wb. The rear shackle is on the outside of the chassis. Look just behind the tire in this shot and you can barely see the shackle.
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Old 03-24-2011, 09:11 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Do you have a shot of your spring mounts? How long are your springs?
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Old 03-24-2011, 09:16 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I am playing around with chassis placement front to rear. I pushed the chassis back 2"-4" to push the chassis over arch part of the frame. I also layed the front hoop back at the same angle as the "A" piller. I like the way it looks and it gives me room up front.
Here is the problem i am having with running long travel deavers (61.5") long. Even with pushing the chassis back, the front spring hanger would be around 10"+ into the flat part of the frame and the rear spring eye would still extend past the rear chassis bar by a few inches. The extracab frame needs to be sectioned 6"s or the chassis needs about 6"s added to it. Any suggestions?
I think I understand what you are trying to do. Here's a few suggestions.

I assume you moved that chassis back so you could better line up the front tire with the chassis for tire clearance. That's ok. I would shorten the front of the frame after you got the steering box in so it's not sticking out soo much.

If you need to shorten the x-tra cab frame anyway, you might consider sectioning out a piece in the middle where the rails are parallel instead of cutting the back off. This way the arch of the rear frame stays in the correct spot. Actually, you could do both. set the arch of the frame where you want it compared to the axle placement, section and bob the frame to make it perfect.

I wouldn't worry about the rear springs hanging over the frame a couple inches. you can take care of that by using fabricated shackles like this.
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Old 03-24-2011, 09:48 AM   #17 (permalink)
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If you need to shorten the x-tra cab frame anyway, you might consider sectioning out a piece in the middle where the rails are parallel instead of cutting the back off. This way the arch of the rear frame stays in the correct spot. Actually, you could do both. set the arch of the frame where you want it compared to the axle placement, section and bob the frame to make it perfect.
I started with an xtracab frame (standard 2-seater chassis) and wish I'd have simply lopped off the extra length off the back. It would have been easier to fit back seats with the framerail arch farther back.

I haven't seen any FToys--or Toy trucks for that matter--where the axle tube gets anywhere close to the framerail--it seems like most of us run out of stuff when we flex and the tire hits the frame/chassis.

Does anyone use their full rear arch for vertical compression?
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Old 03-24-2011, 10:29 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I haven't seen any FToys--or Toy trucks for that matter--where the axle tube gets anywhere close to the framerail--it seems like most of us run out of stuff when we flex and the tire hits the frame/chassis.

Does anyone use their full rear arch for vertical compression?
This brings up a good question. 112, do you plan on mounting your axle under the leaf springs on top. I would consider spring under if you are going for wheel travel.
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Old 03-24-2011, 10:34 AM   #19 (permalink)
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....and spring-under for antiwrap!
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Old 03-24-2011, 10:40 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Desertoy,
I plan on a spring under setup. Jeff at deaver suggested a 10" shackle mounted on top of the frame. He said it should give me 14"-17" of travel. I want to set it up like a prerunner. Does toolboxguy make any longer travel shackles? I like his design and i think they would hold up better in the rocks as compared to the total chaos style.
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Old 03-24-2011, 10:56 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Desertoy,
I plan on a spring under setup. Jeff at deaver suggested a 10" shackle mounted on top of the frame. He said it should give me 14"-17" of travel. I want to set it up like a prerunner. Does toolboxguy make any longer travel shackles? I like his design and i think they would hold up better in the rocks as compared to the total chaos style.



I'll make you whatever you want, as long as you're patient with how slow I am.

And by the way, I stole the shackle design years ago, so it really isn't mine.
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Old 03-24-2011, 11:04 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I haven't seen any FToys--or Toy trucks for that matter--where the axle tube gets anywhere close to the framerail--it seems like most of us run out of stuff when we flex and the tire hits the frame/chassis.

Does anyone use their full rear arch for vertical compression?
Pretty much impossible to get near the frame once you move up over 35" tall tires, IMHO.

Get on up into 39-40" territory and there's no way.

I still can;t figure out how you guys are getting your wheelbase so short with big tires
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Old 03-24-2011, 12:31 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I'll make you whatever you want, as long as you're patient with how slow I am.

And by the way, I stole the shackle design years ago, so it really isn't mine.
All of that type of shackle I have seen have been yours, so you are getting the blame

All kidding aside, get with ToolBox Guy and tell him what you want, then be patient. He will design and build you exactly what you need, mabey better.
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Old 03-24-2011, 12:35 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Old 03-25-2011, 12:13 AM   #25 (permalink)
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And by the way, I stole the shackle design years ago, so it really isn't mine.

I designed them for ftoy #001 and had them built by Nick Cone

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ula+toyota+001

they work well for all the reasons posted.

allows a longer spring
lowers ride heights
provides a ramp when backing into a rock
keeps the spring from caming under when you back into something
but mostly just looks cool
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