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Old 11-30-2011, 03:36 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Oh ok. Well if that's all that's the issue it should be fine. If you look at the pics of the actual truck with the cage welded in where i put the rear seat in with the buckets. Those buckets would be the same height as me and I'm 6'2". with the cage there's still about 9" of empty space on each side of the rear seat to the cage. Height wise we're ok too. it may just be the program that makes it look smaller but there's plenty of room in the rear. Mind you there will only be a single seat in the rear. You can see on the cad drawings the front of the cage isn't that much wider but its 2 seats plus room for a shifter between them so actually the rear has more room around them than the front seats.

And yes the shocks lean out slightly. I thought twice about doing that but I don't see a problem with it, it's not much of a lean to want to cam over and with a 4 link will keep it from doing that anyway. i have them towards the outside to keep them as far away from the front seats as possible. You see something wrong with doing it or any potential problems with a slight outward lean?
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Old 11-30-2011, 03:59 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Just thinking here and the way you have the rear coilovers set will cause enormous stress on the chassis end of the lower link. IMO having them tilted out at the top is no biggie but you may wanna explore moving the mount point on the canoe rearward. I have no question that you can build a trailing arm/canoe/link that will be strong enough but that geometry shown in the pic is gonna wreak havoc on those mounts and link ends.
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Old 12-01-2011, 08:26 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I see your point and have been thinking about that. I've seen many other vehicles close to the pivot side like that so I went with the same idea but it concerns me. It's not something I'm in love with lol. The shocks I'll be running I think from what I worked out will limit me from moving rearward. Those shocks are the 18" stroke too. I'll take another look tonight and try and re-work it a little to possibly mount the shocks on the rear side of that center cage upright. Just off the top of my head with shock sizing and what not that should be around 7.5" to the rear. Do you happen to know of a general thumb rule of percentage of the link not to pass when link mounting the shock? like say no more than 40% of the link from the T-case side with a 4000Lbs vehicle?
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Old 12-01-2011, 12:40 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Nope, but if I were doing it I would search pics of say Trent's canoe arms and maybe the ones JR did on Jeff's car and model my attachment point off that. I would look at alot of builds just to see where others are setting them and gauge mine based off that research. I was looking at your pic and I saw the same situation in regards to moving the upper attachment to behind the B pillar. Maybe down a little to. 18" for a link mounted unit seems tall. The idea of link mounting is to accomplish several things, create more room, lessen the amount of shock travel vs. suspension travel there by reducing the work the shock does and creating less heat. Angling the top of shock forward seems to be the common method these days. If you really intend to cycle the suspension through all of the 18" with it mounted that far up on link it translates to some super huge numbers for axle travel that you may never need.
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Old 12-12-2011, 09:06 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Ok update for whats gone on. Not as much done as I would like bc I got a little busy plus had to re-make the frame stand. So here it is!! As for the shock placement I think I'll be moving them to the rear side of the b pillar. That makes mounting it on the lower arm at 62% to the rear instead of 38% like in the cad drawings. Less stress and leverage on the shock and the frame-link mount.

ALSO anyone know where I can get a narrowed fiberglass hood/fenders? I was just going to cut the fiberglass fenders I have and raise them for clearance but I also have the issue of being too wide at the lights. I can just limit the axle I guess but would rather just go with a narrow front clip. Pricing? Dimensions? Oh Oh and speaking of lights anyone know of a good deal for converting to hid and updating the headlight buckets?


Radiator hoop. it follows just inside the lights then out and around them and just under the hood. The stock light location will be the outside right at the second/lower bend. OH! and i stole the shocks off my dads baja for glamis new years then will buy my own later. see them in the back to the left? king pro race 16" and fox 14" both 2.5


b pillar welded in and "X" behind the driver seat.


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Old 12-16-2011, 12:18 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Damn Heim joints are expensive!! for 16- 1"x14 heims with bungs and nuts costs me $720!! but thats actually cheap. Rated at 73,000 lbs so still a good heim, the same heim on the market about 60 i got them for 25. EBAY! For the bungs check out ballistic fabrication. decent pricing for bungs and what not. Got my chromoly today, 1.75 x .12 tubing for upper links and for lower supports plus .125 chromoly sheet to build the rest of the canoe links off the tubing. ill post pics of the canoes soon of the design. all together for chromoly...$517. I'm glad i love fabrication, design and off roading the shit out of what i build bc this crap is expensive!
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Old 12-16-2011, 01:40 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Hopefully the ballistic stuff ships..... Search around on here. Trent fab has Lexan hoods. I am running one and like it, nice and light! I think roundeyes.com will have bucket/ lens assemblies that will accept a hid retrofit. I'm running a product from a company that was called dirtlights.com, it's a glass lens assembly with a 55w h4 bulb for lo beam and 35w hid for hi. It's all plug and play, but cost almost $800. The company and product are not around anymore.

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Old 12-16-2011, 04:56 PM   #33 (permalink)
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is that the guys from hole shot off road for the hood? from what i read trent is gone and josh is there but hard to get a hold of. tried calling nobody answers or calls back. yea round eye were the only ones i found i think ill go for those. hid i can get cheap i have a hook up for those. the hood i think ill end up just cutting my fiberglass and re fiberglassing the fenders in higher that way i can keep it a tilt front end one piece.
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Old 12-16-2011, 05:08 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Trent fabrication is a vendor on this board... Trentfabrication.com
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Old 12-19-2011, 10:24 AM   #35 (permalink)
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This weekends update, majority of the cage finished and shock tower locations started. Tonight ill finish the cage and rear shock towers. This truck may not be a race proven design, but it's what I wanted it to be and damn do I love doing this!! Hey it's only my first truck. Already have a list of other future projects and would like to get as much experience as I can bc my goal is to start a company doing this. It's always been my dream and a huge reason why I'm going to college for engineering and design. Dreamin big or probable route to follow? This is the only reason I posted this build, I would like to see what other builders/offroaders have to say and if its a good investment to follow or stick to it being a hobby or side jobs.




rear view



actual height and placement of driver seat



over the rear passengers head I think I am going to do a double triangle and bar up and over. So profile shot the rear top of the cage will be square instead of the 45* chamfer. still debating that bc I don't do much rock crawling, it'll mainly be fast desert and glamis dunes. Nay or Yay on bar over the head? There's protection as it is and I like the look, added bar is added protection directly over head but I won't like that look.
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Old 12-19-2011, 11:03 AM   #36 (permalink)
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I say protection first, style second! The worst off road accidents I have ever seen have been at Glamis. I have off roading for 30+ years(yes I'm old! ) Besides how would you feel if something went wrong and your rear passenger got hurt because you didn't like how the cage looked with the extra tubes for protection! People lose friends and family everyday to crap like that!
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Old 12-19-2011, 11:12 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Good luck with doing it as a business. A ton of competion out there! I like it better, doing it as a side deal because I can pick and choose what job I want to do. Not because bills are due and I gotta eat. For me, after a while it becomes a job and not something I enjoy! Lol
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Old 12-21-2011, 10:47 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Haha!! Found some old pics of my truck. The ones at glamis was just before we put the fiberglass on it. I think it was just before it was givin to me by my dad too, not sure. You can see the original cage has the same double bend chamfer in the rear. partly why i have it in the new cage, try to keep at least a little of the old feel of my childhood truck







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Old 12-22-2011, 10:50 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Majority of the cage is now done, have gusseting to do but thats no biggy right now. I think tonight I'll start building seat mounts. in the pic i set up where i want my seats to be, i might go an inch higher for better feel.
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Old 12-22-2011, 11:26 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Great progress, look forward to following this build. Stoked with all the 40 builds going on right now!
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Old 12-29-2011, 05:09 PM   #41 (permalink)
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So I think I'm changing the game plan. Full hydraulic steering since I cant find any laws against it and already talked to DOT and CHP and both of them said no laws or restrictions against steering or wheels. Apparently bed lock rims aren't illegal either? Is there something I'm missing? I always was told both are illegal and companies wont even sell them. Doing it anyways though since the truck is already insured and registered. NO INSPECTIONS! lol. Trail gear has a cheap set up for full hydro steering for out the door $700. I'm locating an accumulator to hold pressure if the engine dies or a (forget exactly what its called) brake electric/hydraulic booster. Basically a small electric pump routed to the brake booster but lined with the steering. the electric pump is on a relay that is primarily open through the alternator so that when the engine dies it closes and puts power through the battery charging the pump so you still have power brakes and full steering capabilities if the engine were to shut down. Sounds like a good idea to me! happened to get my chromoly and tons of parts last night too. steering wheel, quick release steering hub, wheel spacers, updated lexan plastic "unbreakable" conversion lenses with 6000k hid lights! cage is now fully welded together with exception of firewall forward. That's next. This truck is movin along quickly! new goal date is presidents day for glamis. too much going on couldn't be done for new years. SORRY!
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Old 01-03-2012, 11:54 AM   #42 (permalink)
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So when it's not in the sand I'll be running these. just got them in today!! I won't have much offroad use but I think will make the landcruiser really stand out. What do you guys think? Shoulda got a bigger rim huh?




HAHA no way these are going on that truck lol
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Old 01-03-2012, 05:00 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Old 01-06-2012, 10:21 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Subscribed for the outcome. Love to see it in the sand taking on some of the jeep crowd. I'm a duner (buggy), but my FJ40 is slug in the sand.

Also, as a fellow CAD user, props on all of the modeling. That's some work! How much for some iges files of the tub, frame and axles?
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Old 01-09-2012, 11:41 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Talking

So i have been moving along just haven't taken pictures, but what I've been up to are small things not noticeable. Fully welding the rest of the cage, made my seat mounts, working on finishing touches on the program to be ready to laser out everything I need for the links, axle trusses and misc tabs. Have been spending tons of money tho!! haha. Triple sealed switches, outlaw flowmaster race exhaust, 36 led clear lens tail lights, fuel filters and pump, 16" 2700cfm electric fan (most cfm fan I found BUT its a no name from kmjent.com great prices but i hope they hold true to their word) more heims for steering, best of all 6" stroke full hydro steering from trail gear. Nice set up for decent price. Any body have or know where to get a low priced accumulator? I noticed nobody runs one on hydro steering. Why? It acts as a pressure spike rebound for the steering to keep from blowing seals and it'll hold pressure so when the engine dies you don't loose steering. Whats the reason nobody runs one?

heres some of my goodies!! more comin and more to buy, not much but some. OH anybody know of cheap mandrel bends to weld together headers? i found them as low as $14 for 180 bend in 1.75" mild steel 2.5" radius. $24 for stainless. Anybody have some cheaper?
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Old 01-18-2012, 04:36 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Got my gauges in and 36 bulb bright led tail lights. damn these are bright too lol. Sunpro may not be the best on the market but they are decent gauges and cheaply priced. All the gauges including the tac only 113 on amazon! lights were $34! ebay and amazon are awesome! lol.




The exhaust I'll be running at glamis only are the outlaw flowmasters. Full open exhaust but still considered a muffler. Hopefully I don't get hassled.




Here is the final look for the front links. Off this i can take the sketches and turn them into the laser program!! sweet deal working for a company with a laser!!

all my brackets, axle trusses, 4 links, steering mounts, frame fish plates even seat mount brackets the owner of my company is letting me laser cut at work. Between full 3D model and a laser at hand takes all the guess work out of building this truck


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Old 01-18-2012, 09:52 PM   #47 (permalink)
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got any pics of how bright those lights are? I am looking at some of those for my taillights too.

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Old 01-20-2012, 08:55 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flatty View Post
got any pics of how bright those lights are? I am looking at some of those for my taillights too.

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Hey bud I snapped a shot last night off a battery. I should've gotten one of running lights too but here's running lights with what would be the brake light on. I'm about 15 feet away from the garage door. Oh and that's just one light. You can see it on the far right. I don't know why it came out as 2 bright spots on the door. You can find these on ebay for 34 bucks. 36 bulb led

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Old 01-30-2012, 08:39 AM   #49 (permalink)
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UPDATE!! finally got the rest of the detailed computer work done to laser the rest of my parts. I got the 4 links, axle trusses and welding bench top cut and will cut the rest of the shock tower brackets probably tomorrow. Well here's what I did this weekend!! I welded up the first 4 link!! I'm excited, first major thing I've ever built. enjoy!











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Old 02-01-2012, 08:59 AM   #50 (permalink)
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one down, 3 more to go!

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