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Old 11-22-2011, 09:22 AM   #1 (permalink)
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67 fj40 SANDcruiser project

I started this build a few months ago and have the truck fully built in the Autodesk Inventor program. Thought I'd share my progress of the program coming alive and slowly getting my truck back and running. This cruiser started with a rancho leaf kit, 350 chevy SB bolted to a turbo400 trans. we ran about 400HP and still through the toyota T-case. It was built this way by my dad when i was a kid and gave it to me when I was 16, haha well a kid with 400hp normally doesn't last too long. The cruiser was well built and a very fun offroader. I rolled it on the freeway (NOT MY FAULT, really it actually wasn't lol) when I was 19 in 2006. With work and college majoring in mechanical engineering I haven't had time until this year to rebuild the wrecked fj40. Started by straightening the body and frame then to 3D. Well here it is!
the starting of cad

engine and what not

fully extended suspension, 26 inches in rear 23 in front
fully collapsed suspension




These are a lil old there's been a few changes to the cage I just haven't taken new screen shots. Here's the real truck now...ok it wont allow more pictures so look for 67 fj40 SANDcruiser cont.
Anyone looking at these im open for any questions, comments, suggestions, hell even donations!! lol
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:31 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Sorry new to this site i just make a reply instead of new thread.. here's my logo I lasered out at work.

engine

cutting the frame

nothching the body channel

starting of the cage. first time using a tubing bender and i only messed up one scrap piece then on to the permanent tube. 6 bends, 16 feet of tube and 4 planes!! came withing a 1/4 of where i wanted. all due to the program!!



first of the cross tubes, I went for having the eyebrow look at the top of the windshield on the cage but I need a few more degrees to look more prominent. It's there just not as noticeable.

starting more of the cage


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Old 11-22-2011, 09:52 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Finally this is up to date, this is where i left off last night..



I'm using a squarewave lincoln 175 tig welder 3/32 thoriated tungsten. 3/32 or 1/8 filler wire. This truck is my first build, I have a really good idea what I'm doing and do have a lot of experience building various things like lift kits and rebuilding engines just never building a full off road truck. With that said I'm up for constructive criticism and will take what I can, anybody can always end up learning something!
So hows my welding? This was a little rusty but I tried cleaning as much as I could. It's a 6" piece welded to 10' of scrap. I put the little end in my tow hitch and started trying to bend or break it. I took about 5 steps and BAM snapped the steel but kept the welds fine. I did notice it broke right at the tip of the weld but not on the weld.


check it out!! I lasered the original cut lines of the dash on 1/8 aluminum and laid them over each other and welded them up. Kepping the stock cruiser dash lines but in aluminum!

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Old 11-22-2011, 10:10 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Some pics I forgot

Notching the body channel for the frame


fixed some cancer that was in an original cruiser fire truck windshield i got from spector.


cancer in the body


And finally, here's a picture of it after I straightened it. I forgot to take a before picture sorry but imagine the top being pushed to the left about 10 inches. this was the original custom radiator I had in the truck when I rolled it. I managed to straighten it and there's only one leak!! You can see towards the bottom it's a little crushed still and the top right corner is where it hit but I'll just leave it like that lol
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Old 11-22-2011, 04:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
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great project. but im not loving the cage. are you running a back seat. im sure the "x" in the rear is strong but it limits all use of the rear of the rig. and then there is no upper cross bar on the c pillar which would be above the rear passengers heads. other than the cage i love the project. ill be posting my project up shortly once i make some headway next week.
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Old 11-22-2011, 04:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Not a fan of the cage either. What are your plans for steering?
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Old 11-22-2011, 07:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I too, thought the cage looked kinda funky in the solidworks shots. But the whole project looks bitchen overall, Can't wait to see progress.
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:56 AM   #8 (permalink)
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The cage in the pics isn't done yet just what I have so far, yes there's going to be a single rear seat. Ok well what don't you guys like about the cage? Just aesthetics? structurally its extremely strong, the CAD drawings will change slightly. I'll try to take pictures of the CAD I'll use. This cruiser will primarily be used for glamis sand dunes and high speed desert so i want the cage stronger over aesthetics.

@ChevotaSS what do you mean limits the use of the rear? even with the caging I still can run 26" of travel in the rear. as for steering I'm going to run 2 miter boxes so that my steering pivot is where the T-case u-joint is and have an axle mounted rack and pinion. This way I still have mechanical steering to be street legal. I have to go back and check that tho I think that will cause bump steer bc of axle twist. May only be effected at big axle twist angles.
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Old 11-23-2011, 10:04 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Are you guys referring to the doughnut in the center being weird looking? that makes for a stronger center point. Arcs are the strongest and this minimizes the weld heat zone bc its not a bunch of tubing welded all at the same place weakening the metal bc of the heat.
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Old 11-23-2011, 11:17 AM   #10 (permalink)
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im reffering to the rear of the rig. the tailgate area and back seat. what will be protecting the rear passengers head. most put the "x" behind the front seats on the b pillar. its your project. build how you want it. i cant wait to see the finished project.
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Old 11-23-2011, 12:03 PM   #11 (permalink)
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looks great. I think what they are referring to is in the event of a roll, there is nothing above the rear passengers head. the way you put two bends in the rear kinda makes it a little more difficult to protect a rear pass. if i had your cad skills i would show you but i don't. I know your not done with the cage. looks killer tho. i gotta check it out one day.

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Old 11-23-2011, 12:33 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Oh ok ok I understand what your saying. It's not bad where it's at I definitely had that in mind. I'm 6'2" and I set the seat up where it's gunna be and I fit fine. The seat is pushed farther towards the center of the truck so your head isn't right where that break is.
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Old 11-24-2011, 05:23 AM   #13 (permalink)
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weld observation

As an observation from an old Journeyman Toolmaker and former drag racer,I was impressed that you took the time to preform a destructive weld test.I assume that with your Mechanical Engineering Degree that you have studied metallurgy.That said,I think your weld looked great,however I did not see if you mentioned the steel type used.The break would concern me.If it was 4130 I would suggest looking into normalizing your welds as it would appear to me that your weld has cooled too quickly causing a Martensitic structure to form .This could be very high tensile strength and near Rc50?? but very very brittle. I am sure that you can find a lot better description of this if you search it.I like to see projects planned out like your appears to be ,it should come together nicely .Good luck with build.
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Old 11-24-2011, 02:14 PM   #14 (permalink)
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This looks like a really cool build, I'm tuned in.
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Old 11-25-2011, 10:46 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks guys I'm excited to finish building it and appreciate the positive motivation!! $$ may hold me back, I am only 24 so I don't have as much extra cash flow, but will try to finish the build asap. It's an ambitious goal but looking to be done for the new years trip to Glamis. Oh and I don't have my degree yet but working on it. I am certified through my school by california as a drafter and 3d designer though. That's what I do for work I design custom backyard SS kitchens. Not much in a way of raw horse power in a SS bbq but it gets my foot in the door as a designer/fabricator. haha.

As for tubing, DOM tubing 1.5" x .120 wall cold steel not chromoly 4130. Speaking of 4130 though, I have seen many guys building the 4 links out of cold steel instead of 4130. Is cold steel strong enough for the links? My bottom links will have the shocks mounted 1/3 the way on the T-case side, constructed of 3 slightly bent tubes and plated together much like a baja style bottom link. Should I just spend the money for chromoly? I do want to use a uniball joint at the T-case side for strength bc of the shocks mounted closer to that side. A heim at the axle side for axle adjusting. The 3 tubes will also be internally gusset cross plated for added strength between the 3 tubes. What do you guys think? Especially directed to Sandman1 with your back ground and racing experience. Thanks guys!
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Old 11-25-2011, 02:04 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandman1 View Post
As an observation from an old Journeyman Toolmaker and former drag racer,I was impressed that you took the time to preform a destructive weld test.I assume that with your Mechanical Engineering Degree that you have studied metallurgy.That said,I think your weld looked great,however I did not see if you mentioned the steel type used.The break would concern me.If it was 4130 I would suggest looking into normalizing your welds as it would appear to me that your weld has cooled too quickly causing a Martensitic structure to form .This could be very high tensile strength and near Rc50?? but very very brittle. I am sure that you can find a lot better description of this if you search it.I like to see projects planned out like your appears to be ,it should come together nicely .Good luck with build.
My main concern with this weld is at the arrow tips. Yea I put a hell of a lot of stress on the tube to break it. I took about 6 foot worth of steps at about 15 feet away of tubing to break the end. I just don't like how it broke at the very tip of the weld. Am I still too hot? You can see the weld is that burnt purple color bc I didn't hold the torch on long enough after the weld to get that rainbow effect with the argon coverage. Otherwise I usually try to stay as cool as possible to keep from over heating the metal. I'm afraid with what we see here I'm still too hot. Am I just over analyzing? Faster travel speed? If I go any cooler I cant melt the metal enough to create a puddle. I'm using a lincoln 175 square wave tig 3/32 tungsten, 3/32 filler rod, set at about 140-145 amps full pedal to start then back off slightly while traveling. ANY suggestions on my welding to get the best weld or improve?

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Old 11-26-2011, 05:30 AM   #17 (permalink)
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weld observation

I could not advise steel types to be used for your suspension applications as I am not an Engineer either, I was only suggesting that you may consider looking into stress relieving .A quick search came up with a you tube video called post heating 4130 tube. Their is tons of information on this stuff . Some things to consider are controlled cooling,some people use a rose bud torch to normalize or stress relieve weld joints,others use thermal blankets,peening with mallets etc.,etc. If you have ever cut into a tube chassis ,roll cage or other tubular weldment and noticed that as soon as you cut thru it torques out of alignment. This is a result of welding stresses related to cooling rates. Another thing to consider is machining your joints tight as gaps will create stresses due to the filler metal shrinking and pulling the base metal as it cools. Years ago a good friend lost his brakes at a local drag strip and his light weight car went over the sand trap that was there to stop us, then into a ditch where his $10k chassis just broke apart near the weld joints,and the welds were still in tact. I do not usually respond to these threads but enjoy reading of others projects and was interested to see that your cage was not just a show cage because you appear to be tying it into the frame.
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Old 11-26-2011, 10:28 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Nice build!

I am not fan of the cage either, agree with what others have said about it. I think your suspension travel numbers are a little off. Driveshaft angles and packaging will kill it. You will probably end up with around 12-14 in the front maybe, 16 with full hydro. The rear is the real killer! My cruiser is at 113 wb with a 5.3/4l60/3sp Stak on 60/14b axles.....my rear driveshaft is a hair under 36inches. With a 24 inch frame height, I am at 15degrees (driveshaft angle) at ride height ( on 42's). I am hoping that I will be able to cycle a full 16inches, 8up and 8 down. In the front with some serious frame hacking, it looks like I will get around 6.5 to 7 up and around the same down. I won't know until I build my upper link mount later today. Shock mounting, steering, frame width, axle width, steering angles, tire/wheel backspacing, what is in the way of the link as it travels, etc., etc., will determine everything. Have fun! I can wait to see it in Glamis....you will smoke my ass!!
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:32 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Just a heads up this post is gunna be a little long haha. @jedrattle what doesnt everyone like about the cage??? Just bc of limiting storage space and rear seat? Or how the actual cage looks? As far as the suspension numbers those are what I'll be pulling as long as the driveshafts do what I was told lol. I went through hours of moving links, researching 4 links, suspensions and driveshafts. If you didn't know already I'll give you a hint a few drive shaft places told me, go to the junk yard and find a I think it was 95 and older 4runner. those drive shafts will pull operating angles of 40*!!!! insane I know lol. I happened to get a set a few weeks ago and at full drop I measured them at 47*!! Any mini truck prior to 95 are suppose to be the same but the 4runner has the same centering yoke as a cruiser. High angle drive shafts is a company that makes u-joint shafts that operate at 45* and mainly uses them for long travel buggies to eliminate messy clean up and rebuilding cv joints. They want about $700 a shaft though!! There were a few other places I researched and about the same price. I told them about my build and surprisingly 3 of them gave me this same information. They seemed stocked about my project hehe. Basically it's a deep sunk yoke so the U-joint is further from the flange to allow more flex. My numbers are based on 33* drive shaft angles so technically I can pull more. As for the front steering I'm mounting a rack and pinion on the axle and running miter gear boxes off the steering column so the pivot is parallel with the drive shaft eliminating steering restrictions but staying mechanical for street use.



Ok update from this weekend!!

welded everything together but ran out of argon on the last 4 welds lol.
got the aluminum dash cut and in place waiting for welds

cut the fenderwells for the clearance

ill run a bar under the edge of the new fenderwell as a "safe bumb" for the tire to hit if it ever does and to keep from smashing the fender or whats left of it lol. It'll make for a cleaner look too.

To clear up a little on where seating is and height issues the buckets are about the same height as my torso and I'm 6'2" so you can see where things will be for a tall person. the seats are set up at the angle, height and position of exactly where I want them too.


And got my gears in for building my miter box!! I'm out of money at the moment so gotta wait till pay day to get the bearings, material, sleeves and seals.
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:47 AM   #20 (permalink)
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There's still the driver/passenger door "x" supports and more of the engine cage I need to draw bc I had to erase what I had for the suspension placement. This is a lot more of what the truck will look like when its done. Rear shocks will be behind and just outside the front seats but I'll build tower covers so nobody sitting near them can get hurt by the springs.










Here is a little more of what the steering will be. rack and pinion axle mounted. This set up is one of the only things I'm not sure will work the way i want it to.




What I love about this program is I spent only a couple weeks just drawing the body, frame, engine, axles, shafts everything needed to just about drive the damn thing in digital. It's helping so much tho bc it is drawn at full scale and within close tolerance to what's in the garage. So designing the 4 link, steering, and cage takes all the guess work out. I look at the program and measure start of bend and end of bend and distance between, then just grab tubing and bend without question. It's come out right every time! That said I also have the stock version which I drew first so anyone that knows autodesk inventor or Autocad and would like cad drawings of the stock frame, axles, knuckles, and body...I have them!!
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:58 PM   #21 (permalink)
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You're going to need to mount the center of the bolt for the coilover a 1/4" below the center line of the link. If not you'll experience the wheel barrow affect where your link will want to flip flop on both sides and will destroy your coilovers.
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:45 AM   #22 (permalink)
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oh yea I'm planing on that. Those links will be a three tube boxed in link. i just didnt draw all that. Thats the next thing I'm doing in the program is designing the links and for proper fit up of links and towers to the shocks. Majority of the truck is finished in the program or at least what wont change, stuff like the links and exact shock placement I'm designing and building as I get to that point. It's close enough I know it won't change much.
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Old 11-30-2011, 09:47 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I got some more gas yesterday for the welder and finished my welding for the cage that's there. I started making my toyota Sand Cruiser emblems which have come out awesome so far. forgot to snap a picture though. My Tig welding has been looking a lot better. AND i was able to laser cut all necessary pieces for the miter boxes I'm going to build!



I also bent up the radiator support bar going around the rad but I'll snap a picture after I weld it in place

Here's the miter box pieces



I know its hard to tell what I'm doing with all the pieces but when I get it together it'll be easier to see it coming together. All the holes are basically for bears, sleeves and the seals. Rings are other supports but i thought it just cool I actually have access to a laser!! hehe makes things so much nicer and cleaner for stuff like this.
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Old 11-30-2011, 02:48 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Your fabrication looks good. I don't have an issue with the cage but I don't have a back seat in my FJ40.

Are your coilovers canted in towards the bottom in your drawing?
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Old 11-30-2011, 03:21 PM   #25 (permalink)
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my take on the rear portion of the cage is it is to open, nothing protecting the rear pass. i think that is what everyone is saying about the rear of your cage. look how much protection driver and pass have compared to the rear pass. if you did not have a rear pass it would be fine. just my .02 keep the pics coming
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