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Old 07-18-2013, 05:03 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Okay, fc187's thread got me thinking... My front spring bushings for the shackle side are shot, I want to lower the rig and I want to get rid of the Revolvers in the front. *What is everybody's thoughts on leaf spring sliders? *I know I will give up some articulation but I will be giving some up going to a regular shackle anyway. *This seems like a great idea for someone like me who doesn't want to do a SR. Does anybody have any in-sight or wisdom about these?

Leaf Spring Slider Kit, Universal - Liquid Iron Industries
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:46 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Sorry for the long delay in an update! Between family reunions, weddings, sickness and the rest of life’s chaos, I haven’t had a chance to work on it much. I did drive it a few weekends ago and promptly got pulled over for no taillights… At least they worked for a couple of miles! I will worry about that later...

So last week I made it out to the shop to get it ready for the Cruisin’ the Woods pre-run. I decided that the front end walking under the rig while turning was bad and I was going to replace the bushings. When I started this process, I had no idea what the front springs were from or if the original hangers where used. After pulling it apart, I was even more confused! The hanger was 2.5” wide with a I.D. of 1”. That one was easy to figure out and I had bushings for it if I wanted to go back to the stock shackles. The springs on the other hand are 2.75” wide with a I.D. of 30mm… Apparently they were for a mini truck. The problem with that is the only bushings you can find are for an 18mm bolt, not the .5” bolt I need. Whoever put this together before sleeved the bushing with a piece of hose. I was not going to do that again!

Long story short-ish, I decided not to go with the sliders at this time mainly due to cost. I would eventually like to link the front and spending the extra money at this time on something I would probably cut off didn’t seem like a good idea. I came to the conclusion that I needed a 4” bolt-to-bolt shackle with a 0.120” offset and I wanted to run .5” hardware. Ruffstuff had the shackles I needed so I ordered them up. Next was the bushings… For the hanger bushing, I found that a CJ bushing would work and had the exact dimensions I needed. It is Energy Suspension part number 2.2117. For the spring, I was having a heck of a time. Apparently, nobody will list the dimensions of a Toyota pickup bushing! After a ton of research, I ended up getting the rear leaf spring kit for a 1st gen pickup (Energy Suspension 8.7101). This is more bushings than I need but I know that one of them is right! Now I just needed a sleeve to make the I.D. go from 18mm to .5”… Since I don’t have a lathe, I had to search for one. Finally, I found what I needed at Dave’z Off Road Performance. Hopefully all of my calculations where correct and the shipping is on time for me to get it together this weekend. I will make sure to snap some pics for y’all.
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Old 09-12-2013, 01:09 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Quick update of the suspension issue: I finally got all of the parts and some time to put it together. I know that you guys have been pic deprived, so here you go…

Ruffstuff shackles all painted up purdy:


Greasing the bushings:


Pressing in the bushing sleeve:




Make sure to grease up the bolt:


Get the shackle set and use a Hi-Lift to line it all up:




And finished:


Now I have a couple of weeks to finish the battery tray, replace the fuel cell, redo the antenna mount, install a HAM radio, fix my taillights and build a license plate mount...
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Old 09-18-2013, 12:57 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Finished up the battery tray and remounting the CB antenna last night. I may just get this thing wheelable in time for Cruisin' The Woods yet!
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Old 10-01-2013, 04:50 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Well, I was able to get the 40 ready enough for Cruisin’ the Woods 2013! This is a good thing considering I was leading runs both Friday and Saturday… I was able to get my taillights working somewhat reliably (the factory connectors suck); installed a 2M radio and set some frequencies; install my CO2 tank; mounted the license plate; got a new OHV sticker; added seat covers; and fixed the leak in my fuel cell. I was a little nervous because I didn’t get a chance to pre-flight anything. I was literally working on it all the way up to loading it on the trailer to leave.

As I was fighting through all of this, I was keeping an eye on the forecast. It went from good to bad to worse very quickly! I started to get pretty down on the 40. Thursday night, the talk around the campfire was putting the old girl up for sale and taking a break for a while… Then I got on the trail Friday.

The weather was horrible, but the windshield wipers and the heater fan never stopped. The carburetor worked without a hiccup and the bald Iroks had no problem making short work of the slimy rocks. I really couldn’t be happier with the way it worked! The only issue I had was my alternator gave up the ghost on Friday. She still got me back to camp and it was a quick, 15 min swap. (Thanks to BillyBongo for picking up a new alternator for me!) Thanks to how well she did, I’m not so overwhelmed with the project. It will still be rebuilt to the 40 of my dreams, but she can make me smile enough that a coastal storm couldn’t wash it away. However, I think a top has moved up on my to-do list…






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Old 03-11-2014, 11:30 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Holy crap! I am actually updating this thing… So after Cruisin’ the Woods 2013, I unloaded the 40 and pulled her in the garage. This was the first weekend of October. A couple of weeks after that, my wife and I got the news that our Landlord was being forced to sell the property we were living at. It didn’t make sense to try and find another place to rent, so we started house hunting… I will spare you the stressful details of blitz house shopping on a budget (we were planning on having another year or two before this happened), but I will say that from when the 40 got pulled into the garage, it was started once. It was never driven and I never spun a wrench on it. This is why the updates were non-existent.

Last night I aired up the tires, let her warm up, and drove her away from my old shop for the last time. I decided to drive her the five or so miles to the new house. She drove like a champ! You would think that I was driving her once a week. She is now tucked away in the garage of our new house and once the boxes are unpacked and organized, I can start working on her again.

Long story short, I apologize for the lack of communication on this thread. It has been a very hectic last couple of months! To make up for it, here is a crappy cell phone pic of the 40 in her new garage:


I think she will be happy. The new garage is insulated and has 10’ ceilings! Now to go find a spot for all of my crap…
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Old 05-14-2014, 12:18 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Well it looks like I have a winter project. As of today, I am the proud owner of a 350 small block. She has a BIG cam, 1st gen Holley fuel injection, MSD box and dist, but no exhaust manifolds or alt. The plan is to try and sell my F (hopefully without the alt.) to recoup some $$, then yank it out after Cruisin' the Woods in September.
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Old 05-15-2014, 10:34 AM   #58 (permalink)
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And for those who are wondering why I am sticking with the big cam, there is a method to my madness. The 1F I have runs great and the modified carb handles angles really well. However, because of the lack in HP, I am running 5.29 gears in the axles. It is awesome off road, but on road (even 25mph fire roads) I am really spinning that motor and my top speed is about 45 - 50. I want to go to 4.10 gears so that I can drive it more on the street and maybe not have to trailer it everywhere but I know the lack of hp will be a pain. From the very beginning, I knew that this 40 was going to have a V8 in it.

The motor that I bought is coming out of a rock buggy. Because he was running an automatic, the cam was a problem. It is not a high rise intake, just enough cam to make it lope at idle. With me running a manual, I will be able to use the high RPM of this motor without going too fast. I think it will work perfectly for my application. Especially until I get the axles swapped out. At that time I may swap the cam to an RV cam. Either way, I'm excited for the sound of a cammed 350!
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Old 06-24-2014, 02:48 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Quick update: As I was getting the 40 ready to move to the new house, I noticed that the clutch reservoir was almost empty. I filled it up for the drive and decided to just keep an eye on it. After my last trip up to the woods, it was empty again in a day. I guess that means it's time to look into it...

Come to find out, the clutch slave cyl was leaking. After doing some research, I learned that it would be smart to replace the slave and the master cyls at the same time. I also learned that next to OEM or AISIN, Beck Arnley is the brand to buy. The original Toyota part numbers for my '73 are 61470-3002 for the slave and 61410-30041 for the master. I found out quickly that I couldn't afford OEM or AISIN parts at this time and converting to the newer (cheaper) system was still a bit out of my price range. The hunt was on for the best deal on Beck Arnley products. Surprisingly, the best price I found was on Amazon! The slave (part# 072-4773) and master (part# 072-4757) ended up costing $85 shipped.

Hopefully, I won't have any issues with my existing lines. I will make sure to detail the swap once I get the parts because you all like cell phone pictures. LOL
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Old 06-25-2014, 06:10 AM   #60 (permalink)
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FWIW, I have 4.10 gears in mine and I stay around 60-62(gps) on the highway with pedal left. I am surprised that that old 2F moves the 37s so well. It moves along quite well for it's age and much better than any 22re I had ever did, even with gears.

I dont have a tach, but I always feel like I am pushing my motor too hard, but its always smooth and quiet at idle and the oil always looks good.
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Old 06-25-2014, 10:00 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Oh I believe that! 4.10's are very much on my to do list. I have lunchbox lockers front and rear, so I'm hoping I can get someone to trade me straight across. I'm going to focus on the engine swap first unless something falls in my lap. I think the 350 and 4.10's will be a perfect combo with my dual cases and SM465.
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Old 06-25-2014, 11:09 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CreeperSleeper View Post

Come to find out, the clutch slave cyl was leaking. After doing some research, I learned that it would be smart to replace the slave and the master cyls at the same time. I also learned that next to OEM or AISIN, Beck Arnley is the brand to buy. The original Toyota part numbers for my '73 are 61470-3002 for the slave and 61410-30041 for the master. I found out quickly that I couldn't afford OEM or AISIN parts at this time and converting to the newer (cheaper) system was still a bit out of my price range. The hunt was on for the best deal on Beck Arnley products. Surprisingly, the best price I found was on Amazon! The slave (part# 072-4773) and master (part# 072-4757) ended up costing $85 shipped.
LOL
A little late now, but Partsgeek.com sells Aisin clutch master and slave cylinders for a very good price.
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Old 06-25-2014, 03:11 PM   #63 (permalink)
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A little late now, but Partsgeek.com sells Aisin clutch master and slave cylinders for a very good price.
They do... But only for the new system ('75+). That would require me to replace all of the lines too. Unfortunately, I could only find them from $OR or custom built, bringing the cost too high for this go-around. I have an engine swap to fund!
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Old 06-25-2014, 06:04 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Get after it! Im a 100 series trans away from having my 1uz in my 40. I kept trying to talk myself out of a V8 swap in the 40, but every time I hear a V8, I know I wont be satisfied with anything else.
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Old 06-25-2014, 07:57 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Nice looking 40. I noticed on your list of things to do you have metaltech tube fenders. Do you have them already ? If not I have a non welded set I would sell for cheap if you are interested.
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Old 06-26-2014, 09:59 AM   #66 (permalink)
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I have not bought them yet and I would be interested. Would you mind shooting me a PM with some details? Thanks!
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Old 06-26-2014, 03:26 PM   #67 (permalink)
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If that doesn't work out, I'm interested.
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Old 07-07-2014, 03:58 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Sorry guys, no bad cell phone pics of the new parts… A friend asked me if I wanted to go wheeling on the 4th, so it was a mad rush to get everything together and ready to roll. I got the parts on the 2nd, test drove it on the 3rd, and loaded it on the trailer to go wheel! The good news is, the clutch is fixed! However, it has been so long since I have been able to wheel in any heat, I forgot about the power steering overheating. Half the day was spent strong-arming the steering wheel. It feels like the other half was trying to keep the front shackles from inverting… I guess I have a bit more work to do.


And some wheeling pics to keep everybody happy:

























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Old 08-01-2014, 10:50 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Well, time to get off my lazy butt and start the evolution of this ol girl. As I mentioned before, I have acquired a TBI SBC to swap in. I was planning on posting my current F for sale and pulling it after my club's annual event, Cruisin' the Woods. That timeline got bumped up a bit because the engine sold!

Starting yesterday, I am in the process of pulling my engine. I will then swap my F into it's future home in another Cruiserhead's FJ40. After that, the fun begins on my 40. This is the checklist on what needs to be done, in no particular order:

* Clean & reseal transmission & t/cases.
* Drop the SBC in with new mounts & cross member.
* Swap in GM steering column.
* Rewire 40 with NW Autowires harness, VDO gauges, & aftermarket switches.
* Swap fuel cell and run new lines to handle FI.
* Build exhaust.
* Build new driveshafts.
* Remove heaters due to clearance issues.
* Finish roll cage.
* Redo front bumper and add winch.
* Add PS cooler.
* Weld stops to keep my front shackles from inverting.
* Swap in alum. radiator.
* Whatever else I come up with, hopefully avoiding the "while I'm in there" trap too much.

I'm hoping to have this all done by spring, if I can. I will probably be asking y'all a bunch of questions along the way...

The start of a new beginning:


As of right now, my first challenge is going to be parts storage. I'm already missing the shop I had at the old house:
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Old 08-06-2014, 05:13 AM   #70 (permalink)
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looking forward to seeing the process of evolution.
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Old 08-06-2014, 09:49 AM   #71 (permalink)
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Me too! Hopefully I don't run out of motivation, time, or money.
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Old 08-07-2014, 12:38 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Well, everything is disconnected and the engine is ready to pull. I have decided to leave the trans and cases in the 40 for now because it will be easier to pull (F + SM456 + 203 + LC case = really long!) and I really don't have the floor space to have it lying around right now. Tonight, I just need to unbolt the engine from the trans and yank it out of there.

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Old 08-08-2014, 01:04 PM   #73 (permalink)
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The engine is freeeeeee!!!! Tonight the sheet metal will be loosely bolted back on to get it out of my way and Sunday, I will muscle it on my trailer to get everything out of my way. Hopefully that won't be too much of a chore without a winch.


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Old 08-11-2014, 10:53 AM   #74 (permalink)
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I didn’t get a ton done this weekend on the 40, but I did get to take my Lexus out in the woods on Saturday. It was a much needed break:




Then I bolted the front clip back on the 40 and started devising a plan to get it on the trailer. Like I mentioned before, I am doing a side job with my old engine and need the garage space. That means my 40 needs to go away for a bit to give me room. Without the engine, I knew I wanted to load it backwards on the trailer. Unfortunately, my trailer doesn’t have a winch and neither does my 40. After discussing the dilemma with my wife, she gave me the go ahead to buy what I needed to put a winch on my trailer! Unfortunately, my welding leads weren’t long enough to mount the winch onto the trailer, so it got temporarily attached to the 40.



With help from a buddy and my wife, my 40 is safely on the trailer and stored away for a bit. Once the side job is done, it will be back and the real work will begin.







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Old 11-19-2014, 04:08 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Well, I finally finished putting my old F motor into a buddies '73 FJ40. Now I have my 40 back in the garage and I'm ready to start working on it!



After a lot of pondering, I think I have a list in chronological order. For those of you that have been down this path before, please let me know if I am missing anything or need to change the order!

1. Remove exhaust, seats, heater, and trans tunnel. (List heater for sale.)
2. Remove drive shafts, trans, and t-cases.
3. Clean, reseal, and paint trans and t-cases.
4. Remove front clip.
5. Clean and paint firewall and bottom of tub.
6. Remove factory motor and trans mounts.
7. Clean and paint engine.
8. Mate engine to trans/t-cases with new clutch.
9. Install as many accessories to engine as possible.
10. Mock placement of drivetrain.
11. Fabricate motor mounts and cross members.
12. Weld shackle stops for the front shackles.
13. Clean , finish weld motor / cross member mounts, stitch weld , & paint frame.
14. Install drivetrain.
15. Install GM steering column and attach to steering box.
16. Buy and install radiator and power steering cooler.
17. Clean, paint, and install front clip and trans hump.
18. Install fuel system; including cell, lines, pump, filter, vent, return, and pickup.
19. Install wiring harness, gauges, lights, and switches.
20. Build new seat brackets and install seats.
21. Test fire engine!
22. Build exhaust.
23. Clean, reseal, and paint axles.
24. Buy and install drive shafts.
25. Build winch bumper and install winch.

With some luck, I hope to be wheeling it this spring...
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