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Old 11-19-2014, 05:22 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Love it !!!!

I need a new project and I am looking for another FJ40
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Old 11-20-2014, 09:25 AM   #77 (permalink)
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Thank you! I know my builds are low buck and I don't have the skills of FC, but I appreciate the encouragement. It helps keep me motivated.
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Old 11-20-2014, 05:10 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Thank you! I know my builds are low buck and I don't have the skills of FC, but I appreciate the encouragement. It helps keep me motivated.
You're building something?
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Old 11-21-2014, 10:16 AM   #79 (permalink)
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Kinda... I would invite you over to check it out, but you wouldn't come anyway.
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Old 12-01-2014, 09:12 AM   #80 (permalink)
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With the help of a fellow club member, Brian (TonsOFun), we got some stuff done on the 40. We pulled the seats, heaters, trans tunnel, and drive shafts first. This was surprisingly easy since every bolt was hand tight. Literally 1/8” – 1/16” with a wrench and you could get the rest with your fingers… I can’t believe she didn’t fall apart on the trail!

After some staring and a step 6 or two, we were able to rig up my trailer winch to a snatch block on the roll cage, then to the drivetrain. Next step was to remove the cross member/skid plate monstrosity. I finally broke out the cutoff disc as it will all be re-engineered anyway. Once that was out of the way, we were able to slowly lower the SM465/203/3-sp to a furniture dolly. It work WAY better than I could have imagined and now I get to start cleaning and painting…

Here are the pics that Brian got:






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Old 12-04-2014, 09:12 AM   #81 (permalink)
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No pics but the front clip is back off, all the wiring is out of the engine compartment, heaters are out (Anybody want to buy some FJ40 heaters?), and pretty much everything that can be unbolted is. I still want to pull the master cylinders off the firewall so I can start prepping it for paint. I figure the brake fluid probably needs to be replaced anyway. Who knows how old that is! I also need to remove the current motor and trans mounts and prep the frame for stitch welding and new mounts... But it is getting worked on!
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Old 12-04-2014, 09:51 AM   #82 (permalink)
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That's the only way to get it done !!!!

I need some Deschutes Brewery beer in a BAD way
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Old 12-04-2014, 10:04 AM   #83 (permalink)
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I need some Deschutes Brewery beer in a BAD way
Chainbreaker!!!
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Old 12-04-2014, 11:16 AM   #84 (permalink)
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That's the only way to get it done !!!!

I need some Deschutes Brewery beer in a BAD way
My Dad lives in Bend, OR (which is where Deschutes Brewery is located) and last weekend my wife and I visited 12 different breweries in Bend NOT including Deschutes. I have to say, the more central OR beer I drink, the less impressed I am of Deschutes. It's still good, don't get me wrong, but there is SO MUCH better! Next time you are in OR, you need to do the Bend Ale Trail: The Bend Ale Trail Beer Tour

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Chainbreaker!!!
White IPAs are tasty!
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Old 12-04-2014, 02:56 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Oh we'll be back.....this time with my 4Runner and a few tanks of propane
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Old 12-19-2014, 10:04 AM   #86 (permalink)
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Quick update: Last week I went out and stripped the front clip back off the 40 and started cleaning up the firewall. Last night I started with this:





I finished pulling the master cylinders and brake / clutch lines out of the way and started degreasing, wire brushing, and sanding the firewall. Even though I know I will need to sand it off, I couldn’t help but shoot a little color on. It’s a bit brighter than I was expecting, but I think it will look good. Hopefully I will have the Type 1 Diabetes awareness ribbons on Monday so I can make sure the shade is correct. What do you guys think?








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Old 12-19-2014, 04:11 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Quick update: Last week I went out and stripped the front clip back off the 40 and started cleaning up the firewall. Last night I started with this:



I finished pulling the master cylinders and brake / clutch lines out of the way and started degreasing, wire brushing, and sanding the firewall. Even though I know I will need to sand it off, I couldnít help but shoot a little color on. Itís a bit brighter than I was expecting, but I think it will look good. Hopefully I will have the Type 1 Diabetes awareness ribbons on Monday so I can make sure the shade is correct. What do you guys think?




I should have pulled my engine and cleaned up the bay before I did everything else. Nice work!
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Old 12-19-2014, 04:24 PM   #88 (permalink)
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I think that color or close to it will look great. Once you get it the shade you like shoot a whole panel. That will help.

What U joint are you running in that steering shaft 1410?
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Old 12-19-2014, 04:43 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Thanks! I got the ribbons today and I think the paint is too bright. We will see for sure once I get home. I may have to roll with it or get custom paint mixed up.

As for the steering, I have no idea but it is one step above ghetto, which seems to be par for the course on this thing.
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Old 12-19-2014, 05:10 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Thanks! I got the ribbons today and I think the paint is too bright. We will see for sure once I get home. I may have to roll with it or get custom paint mixed up.

As for the steering, I have no idea but it is one step above ghetto, which seems to be par for the course on this thing.
Sherwin in Tualatin mixes for very fair prices. Cheaper than rattle cans by far.

I think that steering u joint is from an FJ60.
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:19 AM   #91 (permalink)
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Sherwin in Tualatin mixes for very fair prices. Cheaper than rattle cans by far.
It's not when you consider the cost of a air compressor that is worth a damn, air drier system, gun, and paint booth access... I also want to be able to touch up the paint on a regular basis since it will be for raising awareness.
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:35 AM   #92 (permalink)
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Well, I got my ribbons! Unfortunately, I think the Safety Blue is too bright. The pics don’t show it real well, but it makes the ribbon look like a weird purple-ish color. I did think about custom matching paint to the ribbon, but I’m worried that it will blend in too much. That would totally defeat the purpose… What does everybody think of a darker blue? Like Ford tractor blue?



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Old 01-08-2015, 10:15 AM   #93 (permalink)
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Last night I finally got off my butt and worked on the 40. I pulled the steering column, finished preparing the firewall, and shot it with primer. I need to go back and clean up a few areas, but it is pretty much ready for color.


Speaking of color, TonsOFun came out with his impressive bag of Monstaliner color chips to see if any of those would work for me. Originally I was planning on over-the-counter paint only for easy touch-ups but I really like the idea of the liner and I think it would set it off that much more. One of the colors, Smurfadelic, looks to have the perfect contrast to the T1D Ribbon!
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Old 01-08-2015, 11:58 AM   #94 (permalink)
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It seems like the ribbon would still get over-powered by the darker blue. That lighter tan however would look good. Or white
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Old 01-08-2015, 12:10 PM   #95 (permalink)
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What lighter tan?
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Old 02-12-2015, 09:21 AM   #96 (permalink)
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Update time! So I got my Monstaliner in the mail and I acquired a new driver side apron. My plan was to strip the hood, aprons, and bib to get ready to line. As I pulled apart my bib, I noticed that the rust has taken it’s toll and it was in a lot worse condition than it looked bolted on the 40:







Another issue with my bib is the PO cut holes for the ugliest rectangle turn signals (since the front fenders were bobbed). I would really want an early bib for the factory turn signals. However, I am still on a very limited budget to get this thing back on the trail. That’s when Anthony from Land Cruisers NW came to the rescue! He had an early bib that he was going to use as a wall hanger and he was willing to give it to me for the project. It was not perfect, as the poor 40 that wore this bib must have hit something pretty hard, but it will give me what I need. Originally, I was hoping that I could just straighten the early bib and make it work. That proved to be a bit harder than I was expecting without a press. Here is the early bib all stripped down:






I have now spent a couple of weeks staring at these bibs trying to think of the best way to fix the early bib or graft the two bibs together without screwing up both of them. I’m not that great with sheet metal work, so I am a little nervous about any of my options.

Well, as luck would have it, my Dad happened to be in town for a job and he met up with my wife and I for dinner. He was looking over the bibs and came up with a plan. Using the original bib as the starting point, we could replace the bottom 2” with 3/16” angle. It won’t look completely original because it will no longer have the original outer shell, but it will be strong and wouldn’t rust. He then figured out the details in grafting the stamped turn signal area from the early bib to my ’73 bib. We can actually use all Toyota metal to fix it except for the angle iron. He was up for the challenge, so the bibs are on there way to Bend to have my Dad work his magic!

I feel like a HUGE weight has been lifted off of my shoulders. Now I can focus on the engine swap side of things and I have a renewed energy for getting out in the garage. I didn’t realize how much dreading about the stupid bib was dragging me down.
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Old 02-24-2015, 09:51 AM   #97 (permalink)
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Well, my Dad wasted no time in getting the bib finished up! He took my original bib, grafted in the early indicator lights, patched the PO's hole for aftermarket (ugly) blinkers, and replaced the bottom part with angle iron. I am stoked with how it turned out! Now I have a rust free, straight bib that can run stock looking blinkers.






I will get some etching primer on the bib ASAP so that I have something for the Monstaliner to stick too. I am also on the hunt for the proper bell housing and clutch parts to mate my SBC to my SM465. Ideally, I want a cast steel one from a '68 - '72 GM truck (Cast # 3925505). I would settle for a later aluminum one, but the cast would make me feel better. I also need to buy a flywheel and 11" low-profile clutch so I can keep the Toyota clutch hydraulics.
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Old 02-24-2015, 10:36 AM   #98 (permalink)
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Nice job on the bib, it came out nice! A little pricey, but I would check AA for your clutch needs. Georg is a "dealer" and has always treated me right on pricing/getting the parts where I need them. Surely they have a setup that will work for you. I used AA conversion flywheel and new cylinders/rods from $OR when I swapped the Vortec into the Tan rig in HI. It seemed to work fine on the little bit of driving I've done with it so far...
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Old 02-24-2015, 12:52 PM   #99 (permalink)
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Where you using that set-up with a SBC and SM465? My only issue is keeping the Toyota parts to engage / disengage the clutch. Everything else is off-the-shelf GM stuff. The problem I'm running into is GM only put a hydro activated clutch between a Gen1 CSB and SM465 in one or two years. Before that it was all linkage activated. I don't want to convert to linkage and I don't want to track down the GM parts and graft it to my firewall. I know I can get the Toyota stuff to work as long as I'm running a low-profile clutch, which isn't exactly a rare part by any means.
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Old 02-24-2015, 01:25 PM   #100 (permalink)
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No, it is on a 5.3 Vortec with H41. While it sounds like apples and oranges, it really isn't (or doesn't seem to me that it should be). Just check with AA to see if there is a slave cylinder bracket available for an SM465 that will take the Toyota slave cylinder, although it wouldn't be that hard to modify a bracket to make it work (2 bolts). There are definitely low profile clutches and arms that should work with a hydraulic clutch (as you said). Finding your cast bellhousing will likely be your biggest pain?

I'm still at sea, but I'll see if I can dig around on their site to find what I would look for in your situation. I could be over-simplifying this, but I think it's out there and shouldn't be all that difficult. Sorry if I've muddied the water in your thread...

Is there a reason you don't want to just run the Toyota 4 speed? Just curious...

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