Joel's multipurpose 40 on 41s - Page 8 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > Toyota - Land Cruiser

Share LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-14-2019, 10:51 AM   #176 (permalink)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Member # 134699
Posts: 92
Awesome day trip. Wheeling in Hawaii is on my bucket list for sure
rooster18 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-15-2019, 03:47 PM   #177 (permalink)
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Member # 171591
Posts: 180
Originally Posted by rooster18 View Post
Awesome day trip. Wheeling in Hawaii is on my bucket list for sure
Thanks! I'll get back to build in a second but I'm finding all kinds of things worth noting as I wheel in the Jeep and I figure posting is better than letting this thread sit idle.


Arriving home from Mana Rd, I found I apparently wheeled hard enough to jam some wood in between a couple of my tire beads. I only dropped down to 18 psi or so, but there's a lot of throttle involved when you go wheeling deep in the woods. ;-)

Thought I got it all but actually managed to give myself a leak so I got to pull the tire and clean more thoroughly.

I also had a heck of filthy rig that I didn't want to just take a wash cloth to and scratch the hell out of everything so I also started researching pressure washers (duh!). Once upon a time a harbor freight "1400 psi" unit that died, but having been spoiled by a friend's big gas powered Dewalt while in SoCal I wanted something better--while staying electric for size and simplicity. Turns out there are metric ton of options, half of them look identical but perform differently, how you set them up matters (IE nozzle flow sizes), and ratings are only marginally meaningful since how manufacturers rate these things varies widely.

Don't know about you guys but with tools, I'd rather over-research and be sure I'm getting the right thing.


If you really want to understand pressure washers the best resource I found was Obsessed Garage. They tested 50 some units to validate flow and pressure. You need both criteria to be effective. Here's the massive playlist.

Obsessed Garage then sells upgrades for every common type of pressure washer to get max effectiveness out of any given unit.

Brass tacks... I ordered the Greenworks 2000 psi variation sold via Lowes.

Here's a shortcut to the review of this specific machine.

I like that the unit has a stainless steel wand, a quality hose, uses generic interfaces (as opposed to proprietary versions), and generally punches above it's weight. I did not want the built in hose real as apparently those all suck. I did buy bigger 3.0 nozzles per G.O.'s recommendation but skipped the foam cannon and all the other adapter options.

A few other purchase recommendations:

I really dig the option to washer undercarriages so this was a big help and adapts fine to the end of the Greenworks wand.

Pressure washer specific soap. (Two "loads" per water tank gets a happy level of foamy IMHO)

Pump protector (apparently a typical reason why washers fail)

So all that said, a week later and I was in business. It all works. My girls think it's a big game and are asking to use the thing.

...and here we are back to "boulevard" status for a run to the beach.

Anyways, hope the research helps some other folks.

Cheers y'all,
frjiolee is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Old 05-16-2019, 03:29 PM   #178 (permalink)
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Member # 171591
Posts: 180
I’ve been building stuff for the Cruiser (I promise), so time to get back to that.

I’m trying to lock down my big interfaces such that I can fit things around them. One of the ones I left as work in progress when moving was the fuel tank/rear seat interface. As a reminder, in the search for capacity I went a little crazy on making my tank use every iota of space available.

There’s also a secondary skid plate that’s intended to support the rear of the tank.

Up front was a bit of a problem since I can’t strap across the tank easily given where the links need to reside. For purposes of shipping everything over to the island, I c-clamped some wood to the frame rails.

That actually worked pretty well so I set about making something more permanent. The vertical walls shown are to support rubber and ensuring it can’t run away. Triangular cross section because I like triangles and they are strong in bending. I’ll both seal any unwelded seams and be sure it has water drain paths before I’m done.

Planning rubber pucks and using some of my mountain of bulb seal edge trim. I’m started by trying good old fashioned rubber cement to see if it’s enough to hold them down.

Final configuration (with the side mounts burned in):

I’m trying to seal all the way around the tank so that it doesn’t have a path in for rocks/mud from above. Someone made the point prior that if I get gravel in between my tank and the skid, a shot to the skid could still try to poke the tank… Having gotten a flavor for how dirty Hawaiian wheeling can be I’m doing the best I can. I did get to weld a couple extensions on the tank to be sure I had good engagement of the bulb seal.

Kinda hard to see but the tank feels really solid in there when squeezed down among the trim and rubber bits. It’s GOOD.

I’m planning to clamp this down from the topside partly using the floorboards/firewall (TBD) with some heavier straps built in.

Anyone have thoughts on firewalls above a tank? NHRA general specs for firewalls are 0.024" Steel or Ti or 0.030" aluminum (at least that runs up through most of the normal classes). Still, those guys have safety peeps that can be on scene momentarily. I'm planning on this bolting down my firewall from above with stiffener ribs and maybe some bead rolling. I already have some 0.060" aluminum laying around so I'm thinking that might be appropriate.

Next up final fitment and more mods to the rear seat (while leaving sufficient clearance for the floorboards)
frjiolee is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-16-2019, 03:29 PM   #179 (permalink)
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Member # 171591
Posts: 180
Realized I skipped something so excuse the out of order pics. I burned in my seat side brackets a while back. I had them mocked up here:

I went back and forth a few times about whether I needed the weight but I did like the fact that the full length version also serves to reinforce my frame notch for the shocks.

Got them heavily tacked in only to discover that one side had pulled over by a 3/32” or so. I was tempted to let it go but dammit, I’d know and it would bug me, so I fixed it. If I ever sell this damn thing, I want the buyer to know I made it as perfect as I could.

Like working in a jungle gym…

The seat interface is a welded flange nut I sunk into the face and welded upside down to be sure I’d have plenty of threads.

Fast forward past welding these fully (and primer) and I was ready to weld in the interfaces to the seat frame.

Except I wasn’t.

Turns out my rubber isolation for the fuel tank is driving the tank up every so slightly higher than intended. That was making it a bitch to try to get the rear of the seat to land since the seat back risers are almost rubbing on the rear shock diagonals. I’d already trimmed these to fit as you may recall.

The only way to go up on the seat frame was also to shift forward, but I’d already locked in this interfaces as well. Simplest solution was to both raise the fronts and slide the seat frame forward. I made some Nike “swooshes” to get ‘er done.

Since I was making that mod, I realized I could kill two birds with one stone. I still had a problem that I needed a middle support point for harness lap belts. The outboard side is planned to tie to the side supports I welded in prior. While I could go back to the center upright on the tailgate that meant I’d have seat belt webbing running from far aft and not quite at the correct angles.

It would sure be convenient if I could attach to the seat frame itself in the middle but the cross bar isn’t up to it. I debated sleeving the bar more tube cut in half, but it’d be a ton of work and ends up with all kinds of stress risers and what not…

The bar also wasn’t especially straight.

Eventually I just said “screw it” and decided to replace the whole damn bar with some upsized DOM (it really is nice having your own mini metal mart, I recommend it).


Last edited by frjiolee; 05-18-2019 at 12:03 AM.
frjiolee is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-17-2019, 03:04 PM   #180 (permalink)
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Member # 171591
Posts: 180
Having already cut out the middle of the bar, I got a little creative with a new tubing notcher (Baileigh TN-250, I like it a lot!).

Well that was easy...

And burned in all the support bits that I cut off the old tube with a spot weld cutter.

Good news! The side support vs shock diagonal tube clearance is bang on!

Side note: Why do I look at the above and in my head some British voice is saying “make the noise”? Anyways, the cardboard under the bar is to account for the eventual floorboards/firewall so I think I’m in good shape.

I was planning on two bungs for lap bar support points so I turned some bar I had lying around (making sure it was low alloy steel this time, having learned that lesson the hard way on my jeep at one point).

Note to self, I should have also used the lathe to at least start the tap. Tapping deep holes by hand meant that the threads are a touch lopsided on the back side. I thought it would track the hole better but maybe now. I used the better of the two bungs and decided on a single point interface that I’ll stack the lap belt connectors on.

Last edited by frjiolee; 05-18-2019 at 12:02 AM.
frjiolee is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-18-2019, 12:06 AM   #181 (permalink)
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Member # 171591
Posts: 180
The rearward seat interface went mostly as planned. Notch cross bars and weld to fit, albeit I did also add a few short risers to get clearance to the tank. Younger daughter helping me work the lathe.

And burned in.

I wasn’t in love with the cantilevered load path so I made up a couple corner gussets (after checking bolt clearance)

And here it is all together. It’s stout!

Last step was to reassemble the foam and seat skin. I picked up some hog ring pliars on Amazon that seem to do the trick.

Given the larger diameter tube I did get to get a bit creative and stack a few hog rings to be sure I could tie back to all the factory internal bits. There was some hand sewing to widen the notch in vinyl for my seat belt bung too.

And finally back together.

Anyone have hot tips on reconditioning vinyl? The brown spots in the back corner are from a hot piece of weld slag that dropped on the seat then danced all over the place as we tried and failed to brush it off. It didn’t burn a hole but if some shoe polish would minimize the appearance I’d try it.

Still looking for commentary on fuel tank firewalls as well.
frjiolee is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-19-2019, 05:29 PM   #182 (permalink)
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Member # 83407
Location: CT
Posts: 190
Love the progress and the Binky reference!
By-Tor is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-20-2019, 05:46 AM   #183 (permalink)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Member # 134699
Posts: 92
I was going to suggest some shoe polish. The nice thick boot polish kind. Thatís the route Iíd try first.
rooster18 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-20-2019, 03:57 PM   #184 (permalink)
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Member # 171591
Posts: 180
Thanks for the kind words. We'll give it shot.

Another area I'm rolling around in the head trying to figure out is a small fix needed in regards to my carbon fiber tailgate and dash.

I had a couple parts cut before bailing on CA in aerospace scrap from my buddy who works for Scaled Composites. It's intended to be both dash and tailgate area.

Issue is that even with very decent pre-preg, the carbon delaminated slightly around various holes while being cut on the water jet.

You can see it around most of the holes in the tailgate... I was match drilling the support structure in this pic.

In many cases it's only at the hole and I'll probably be able to get away with it via some fender washers when I bolt this down. The challenge is that a few areas of delamination are bigger (2" is about the max) and break out of the edges. I'm trying to figure out whether I can use syringes or some such to force some epoxy in there and clamp it back closed.

Apparently guys do something similar things on a much larger scale with RVs and the like.

frjiolee is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.


Email Address:
Please select your insurance company (Optional)


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 07:59 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.