Rustomod FJ40

[peesalot]

are they tapered so they dont slip out the axle ? maybe stake the hole so they dont ?

[deadlew]

Thanks 74FJ40, I prefer I like the look of one piece sides verses u-hoops at the a and b pillars. Just flows better.

The only thing holding the dowels in is the tight fitment of the holes in the hub against the dowels pins.

PaulC

[deadlew]

Man it has been a while since I've had a chance to work on this thing. Had to deal with a tenant that decided she didn't want to pay rent in October, finally got her evicted in December, then had to get the house ready to sell. My wife and I had to repaint the entire house and a good 1/3rd of the ceilings, I had to fix a lot of walls, plumbing issues and a lot of cleaning. It is amazing the rights these thieves have, the hoops you have to jump through and the amount of money you have to spend to get them out. Enough ranting. On to the tech.

One of the axle shafts I had RCV made was 1/4" to long and it was rubbing the cross pin in the differential most likely my measuring error. Got the brake and clutch master cylinders mounted, clutch salve mounted, brake lines ran and mounted, power steering lines made and ran, and most of the exhaust made. Then had my son help help with the laborious task of bleeding the brake and clutch this morning, you should see the look I get when I have him help me.

[cruisermattfj62]

What do you do about the axle shaft that's too long? Bandsaw?

[deadlew]

I just nipped a 1/4" off the diff end of the axle shaft with my grinder and a cutting wheel.



Then chamfered the circumference again with a flap wheel.



PaulC

[Medusa]

I have had to do that several times -- chuck up the shaft in the lathe and use a cut-off wheel on an angle grinder. Heat-treated 300M is a challenge, but with patience and several grinding discs, it can be easily done.

[deadlew]

Fuel lines and front locker actuation cable ran and mounted. I'm going for minimal zip ties, so rubber lined clamps and button head stainless steel allen head bolts get used. Getting closer.



Thanks for looking.

PaulC

[deadlew]

Finally working on the Red 40 again. After the big transmission/transfer case swap and rebuild evolution:

-Rebuilt a No. 1 SM465, installed a new 10 spline output shaft and bolted a FJ40 t-case adapter.

-Pulled No. 2 SM465/AA split case adapter/Split case out of the Red 40.

-Installed the freshly rebuilt No. 1 SM465 and adapter into the Red 40.

-Rebuilt No.2 SM465 installed 3:1 gears in the split case.

-Pulled No. 3 SM465/Rock box (with broken gears)/3 speed t-case out of my Silver 40

-Installed No. 2 SM465/AA split case adapter/Split Case with 3:1 gears into the Silver 40.

-Removed the transfer case from No. 3 SM465 and installed it on the back of No. 1 SM465.

Hope that all make sense. My main focus now, is to finish up the Red 40. The seats/sliders are bolted to the cage, cage the bolted in. Drive shafts reinstalled. Transfer case shifters reinstalled. Seats belt tabs welded to cage and seat belts bolted in.

Now on to something of more interest. Mounting the levers for the cable actuated lockers.

I made a bracket that would bolt to the cage that the levers would bolt too. I wanted to make it removable in case the axle/locker set up may change down the road.



Bolted the levers together.



Here are pictures of the bracket and levers installed.





I routed the cables around and they go through the back of the body mid channel and into the shifter levers so they wouldn't take up much room on the interior at all.



Thanks for looking.

PaulC

[matzell]

need another sm465? 10 spline.

Keep up the good work!

[deadlew]

Rob,

If it is free I'll take it. That way I can have two SM465s laying around.

PaulC

[deadlew]

Now that the Dog box 40 is a roller it is time to focus on the Red 40 and finish it up. The last big hurdle is the wiring. I don't love nor hate wiring it is just time consuming. It may not be professional looking, but it definitely isn't a hack job.

For all the connections I take the center out of a barrel connector, solder the two wires in and then put heat shrink over the top.





Sent a lot of time on the wiring for under the dash splicing in the original 40 switches, and the steering column ignition switch/high low beams/turn connectors.



Finished up the instrument panel today.



Even used some of the good left over connectors from the original harness on the instrument panel.





Just need to finish up the rest of the truck now.



Thanks for looking.

PaulC

[deadlew]

Finally got the wiring done. Runs good, all the lights, turn signals, , hazards and even the wind shield wipers work. Gratuitous flex pics.





Time to get it insured and registered. Then start the rear bumper and rock rails. Thanks for looking.

PaulC

[deadlew]

Here's a little update. Decided to pull the trigger and bought an Orion t-case for it.



After I get the case just a few off and ends to finish up and I'll take it out wheeling.

PaulC

[byron4]

bet it felt good to get it moving! keep up the momentum its looking great