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Old 01-12-2017, 05:38 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Check with Goatbuilt or Liquid Iron Industires. They have a plate that you can use to mount the whole GM fuel pump module.
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Old 01-12-2017, 08:38 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Thats a great idea from a quick search the fuel tanks are direct swaps, as far as the regulator its is on the fuel rail of the 5.3.
That would be the setup that would be easiest to work with if you chose my suggestion . I just had a 62 one out to do a 3fe swap in a 40 and It looked like it wouldn't be that hard to fit the gm pump in its place . Anyone know if maybe the toyota pump would suffice ?
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Old 01-12-2017, 08:47 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Just looked , You would need to install the gm pump . Gm says it needs 58psi and fuel pressure rail max on a 3fe is 46 so a bit of a discrepancy .
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Old 01-13-2017, 05:58 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Trailering on snow sounds nerve racking. Nice choice on the motor and trans swap. I would not go higher than 2500 on the stall. Might consider just trying the stock stall first depending on what axle gearing you choose for those inevitable 60/14 axles .
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Old 01-13-2017, 07:36 AM   #30 (permalink)
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amazing how removing the body guard already brought this rig back to life
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Old 01-14-2017, 09:33 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Had a chance to work on it a bit some more today. Mainly cleaned up the interior and removed a bunch of "After Market" wiring that was not u p to my standard. Also removed the front bumper as it stuck way to far out for my liking. A new will be built and I will put another winch on that I bought for my last rig that I never got around to installing.

Also had a chance to strip all the electrical off the motor to get ready for pressure washing.



The rats nest that I am going to have to start tackling.

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Old 01-15-2017, 04:52 AM   #32 (permalink)
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So were you lucky enough in that those 4-plus shackle reversal brackets are just bolted on?

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Old 01-15-2017, 07:28 AM   #33 (permalink)
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No, there are a couple of tack welds in there too but nothing too crazy. Good thing though as the bumper was bolted on with them as well, so if they weren't there it would have made getting the bumper off a little more challenging.

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So were you lucky enough in that those 4-plus shackle reversal brackets are just bolted on?

PaulC
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Old 01-15-2017, 08:39 AM   #34 (permalink)
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What is the plan with the suspension?

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Old 01-15-2017, 10:38 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Looks so much better!
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Old 01-18-2017, 08:46 PM   #36 (permalink)
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What is the plan with the suspension?

PaulC
In the front I think I am going to remove the Manafre drop hangers and shackles, this should allow me to drop it a few inches. As far as the rear I am going to try pulling a few leaves from the pack as it is pretty stiff and maybe fix the shackle angle as it is nearly vertical.

Since we have been getting hit pretty hard by rain here, I have been working on the fuel system. I picked up an FJ62 tank form Georg at Valley Hybrids and ordered a Airtex E3500M in-tank fuel pump.



The pump itself is pretty tall at 14.75" and the sump in the factory FJ62 tank is only about 7". In order to shorten it, I was able to disassemble the pump and cut the guide rods down. I took approximately 6" out of them and used a brake line flare tool to flare the ends so the pump wouldn't over extend.



This brought the expanded height down to 9" and when collapsed it is right at 7". Its tight but it will work.



There are a couple of places out there that make weld in rings but I couldn't justify the price so I ordered materials to make my own. As soon as they come in I will be working on that.

Also on a side note, I found out that for the evap system to work properly, the GM fuel level sender has to work. For this I simply cut down the arm of the float, to a length that will fit in the sump.
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Old 01-18-2017, 08:52 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Also staring at the 5.3 I picked up, I found out that it is a 2001 not a 2002 as the guy told me. The 2001 motors have an electric air injection pump and plumbing that attaches to the exhaust manifolds. After doing some research I discovered that the 2002s do not have the air injection system and that the factory ports on the manifolds are just capped off.

So hopefully I can just pull the plumbing off and cap the manifolds as I do not have the air pump and just inform the Smog Referee that the motor is a 2002. However, the harness has a pin at C2-36 (The Red PCM Connector) for the air pump relay control. There are no other sensors on the air injection system so I don't think it will throw any codes if I eliminate it. Anyone have any idea if it will?
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Old 01-24-2017, 06:06 PM   #38 (permalink)
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So you are going to go back to shackles at the front or just try to push the hanger higher ? Those look like old man emu's . I would try to find a set of stock height springs and swap out the lift springs first . You could probably sell them and get a set of stockers and still have some money left for other stuff .
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Old 01-26-2017, 06:30 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Started working on the fuel pump ring last night to mount the Airtek fuel pump in the FJ62 tank.

Started with a 6" diameter piece of 1/4" steel and had my wife cut a pattern out on her cameo vinyl cutter for the ring of #10 machine screw that will be used clamp the rings together.



The top plate is 1/8"



The machine screws are countersunk on the backside of the 1/4" ring and I plan on welding the screws to the rings to hold them into place.

As far as cutting out the center holes, I originally was going to buy the two size hole saws that I was going to need but I decided that was a poor investment. So I decided to finally order one of these, which was my Christmas present from my wife.

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Old 01-29-2017, 05:27 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Finished the fuel pump ring and got the fuel pump mounted in the tank





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Old 01-29-2017, 05:32 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Also was able to get the motor and rest of the drive train pulled. And I didn't think it was possible but this thing sits even higher now in the front. I guess when you pull over 800lbs of old iron out it, that is what happens.





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Old 02-22-2017, 11:25 AM   #42 (permalink)
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So weather has been killing my progress but I have been plugging away at things in the garage.

Scored a used Atlas II with 4.3 gears for a decent price and went an picked it up in Minden. Only downfall was that it had the wrong spline input shaft but found a new one for half off. The swap of the input shaft was really straight forward and took less than an hour to do.









and my garage helper learning the tools of the trade

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Old 02-22-2017, 11:27 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Purchased motor mounts from TMR Customs and had a chance to weld them up. They are really nice as they are cut with key ways for easy mock-up and come with all the hardware.





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Old 02-22-2017, 11:28 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Finally found a set of catalytic converters local to me and the guy ended up having a low mileage 4l65e for cheap so I picked that up as well since the original 4l60e that I picked up needed to be rebuilt. Transgo shift kit and deep pan is on its way.



The adapter kit with VSS for the Atlas is pretty nice and easy to install.



However, what AA doesnt tell online that you is that you dont need their $500 adapter kit to attach their Atlas to a 4L60e or 4L65e 4x4 transmission. The only thing their adapter allows for is the VSS and tone ring. So if you have another way to install a VSS that is cheap you can always go that way.



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Old 02-22-2017, 11:29 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Okay, after doing some research it seems the stock exhaust manifolds will not work and I will need F-body exhaust manifolds.

The issue that I am running into is actually finding 2001/2002 exhaust manifolds as they are the only years in which the f-body motors had an EGR system on the. So this leads me to the question if I can run CARB approved headers or will that cause issues when I go to referee the motor swap?
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Old 02-23-2017, 06:19 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Looking good Josh!
Good to start your helpers young!
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Old 02-24-2017, 06:57 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Your build is coming along nicely. Good choice on parts too.
I can't give you advice on the referee and what they will say. And honestly this is one topic I don't know much about and I am good with that. I am 40 years old, couldn't tell you how many rigs I have owned lived in Colorado, Utah and now Oregon I have never once had to smog a rig.
Anyway I am enjoying your progress and build thread.
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Old 02-25-2017, 08:11 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Finally had some great weather today so figure it was time to take the plunge and stab the motor in. However, when trying to get the motor situated on the engine hoist I made a stupid mistake and did not have one of the bolts threaded all the way in and it came lose and broke an ear off of the transmission bell housing.



Luckily I had a spare 4l60e with a bell housing. Also learned that the bolts holding the bell housing on are not standard T50 torx as they strip out. Rather they are T50 Torx Plus bolts. OTC make special bit so if you run into the same issue, dont learn the hard way like I did.
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Old 02-25-2017, 08:16 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Brother came up with the ratchet strap idea to keep everything centered and it worked out great.



Motor mounts are made out of 1/4" so I dont think they will be going anywhere.





Also, I can confirm that truck exhaust manifolds will not work as has been mentioned to me before. I did find a set of 2001 camaro exhaust manifolds with EGR on ebay so they should be here in a few days.
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Old 10-19-2017, 07:49 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Figured I might as well update this thread

Motor is in, under its own volition. Plenty of room under the hood still, at least 2" from the tallest point on the motor.

Definitely need to change up the suspension now that there is weight in the front. Lets just say the ride height didn't change at all when I let the weight off the cherry picker.



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