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Old 10-19-2017, 07:51 PM   #51 (permalink)
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The 2000 Camaro exhaust manifolds that I got off of eBay came in and I had a chance to test fit them. They will work perfectly as they hug much closer to the block that the factory LS truck manifolds do.



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Old 10-19-2017, 07:55 PM   #52 (permalink)
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I decided to mess with the front suspension a bit to see how low I could get it. By simply removing the MAF shackle reversal kit and redoing the shackles I was able to get the front to drop by approximately 2". It made a huge difference in person but does not seem like it in the photos.



Well, it is not low enough so I am going to try rears up front, so if anyone has some rear springs laying around please let me know. Also picked up a set of 5 leaf Chevy 63 springs for the rear.

Also started on the cross member for the transmission / transfer case. Need to finalize a couple of gussets and then will put it for final weld up. The bottom of the Atlas hangs down below the frame by less than an inch so almost a flat belly.

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Old 10-19-2017, 08:01 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Finished up the cross member this weekend with the help of my son, who calls this thing the monster truck.





Almost a flat belly





My helper "Helping"



Also wanted to show this trick that I picked up off of someone else's building over on Pirate4x4.com to keep the spacing between your tabs when welding. It worked great and did not have to massage anything after welding. And yes I cleaned the frame before finish welding.

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Old 10-19-2017, 08:04 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Also, got the rear Chevy 63 springs put in and while I was at it moved the rear axle back a few inches. Will need to trim the rear fender well a bit but proportionally I think it looks much better.

Before:



After:

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Old 10-19-2017, 08:10 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Been busy the last couple of weeks but was able to build a shifter mount over the weekend after taking the son out to the Nor Cal Rock Races at Prairie City OHV Park.

Decided to go with the Winters / Art Carr Side Winder shifter. Only problem was if I mounted it straight to the trans tunnel floor, it was too low for my tastes and I wanted it up higher at a more comfortable level.

Started with some dimple die action



Base coats of paint



Installed





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Old 10-19-2017, 08:14 PM   #56 (permalink)
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I am using a stock throttle cable from a suburban with a 5.3 that I got from the picknpull. Just had to drill a new hole in the firewall and make a slight modification to the pedal. Ended up working out great. Also picked up a FJ62 brake pedal from a member on the board and got that swapped in.

Decided to get the radiator mounts figured out over the weekend, but decided that I wanted to dimple die the brackets so I had to make a dimple die station under my welding table as space is limited in a two car garage that I have to share with the wife's minivan.





Lower radiator support





Upper radiator support



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Old 10-19-2017, 08:19 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Atlas Flanges from High Angle





Nut was not tightened all the way down.

The radiator mount and the fan shroud for the Volvo radiator. Have plenty of space between the fan and water pump pulley.





If anyone is curious this is the radiator I am running
C&R Racing Universal Radiators 802-26191
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Old 10-19-2017, 08:22 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Swapped to an H3 oil pan

Oil pan clearance before:





Oil pan clearance with H3 pan:



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Old 10-19-2017, 08:23 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Progress looks great!
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Old 10-19-2017, 08:25 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Picked up some rear 99 Tahoe springs. They measure 52" eye to eye with the center pin smack dab in the middle. Started mocking everything up and this is currently how it sits:



Front mounts moved up and just tacked in place



First shot at the shackle angle.

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Old 10-19-2017, 08:30 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Let me say Tahoe rear springs up front with 63" chevy springs in the rear, match up perfectly on ride height for 37s. The front springs are super flex but without the overloads in place they want to go negative, so bump stops will be in order. Also ran out of height on the cherry picker but I am sure she has way more in her.

Everything tucks real nice, but a bit of fender trimming will be needed





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Old 10-19-2017, 08:35 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Exhaust work now I know how this thing is going to flex and how the front driveshaft is going to travel.

I was able to get the passenger to driver side crossover to fit between the atlas and transmission and not hang down any lower then the pan on the transmission.





The two sides will be tied into each other using v-band to make removing the exhaust easier in the event that I need to drop the transfer case and/or transmission.

Exhaust crossover and muffler.



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Old 10-19-2017, 08:37 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Swapped a FJ80 rear axle into place. Also took advantage of Ruffstuff's Memorial Day sale and bought their spring perch and u-bolt kit to make things easy.







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Old 10-19-2017, 08:41 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Did get the FJ62 tank with the modified GM pump put into place and everything clears nicely. Only issue I had was assembling the PTFE AN fittings and ended up screwing the threads up on the first one.

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Old 10-19-2017, 08:43 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Fuel line routing.









Mounted up the evap canister purge valve as well. I plan on mounting the canister itself in between the intake and firewall in the big void. Looks like a few people have mounted it there with no issues.

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Old 10-19-2017, 08:50 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Finished all of the wiring for the motor on the driver side. This included getting the ecm mounted, bussman fuse block mounted, and the factory body harness cleaned up. Also finished all of the inside connections for the ODBII port, "Choke" Engine light, and the TCC brake switch.

Rigged up some power to a spare battery to check functionality of the system and my wiring. At first I had not power and nothing was working. Silly me, I forgot to hookup the grounds for the relay block. Once that was addressed, the fuel pump cycles on and I can interface with the computer using TorquePro.

Now I just need to plumb in my trans cooler and I can test fire the motor.



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Old 10-19-2017, 08:53 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Finished up mounting the trans and power steering coolers:



As well as the resting of the plumbing and the final piece of engine accessory, the Vortec cover. Did have a little hiccup when I first filled it up with coolant as the old water pumps was bad and leaking, so I put in a new pump as well. Figure it is just extra insurance.





On a side note, I jerry rigged up some battery cables and and low and be hold after a few cranks she fired right up. Has good oil pressure, idles great and is not throwing any codes yet. Also about half of the monitors were set so that is good news.

All that is left before the first test drive, is to finish the batter box and cables, then bleed the brakes.
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Old 10-19-2017, 08:55 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Runs great but I still have a bit of work to do.
Needs rear shock mounts and the brakes bleed again. Might actually need to install a different master cylinder as I dont think the FJ60 one has enough power for the FJ80 rear axle with disk brakes.

Also I am getting a bunch of rear drive line vibration. Initially I only noticed when I let of the gas at any speed, but once I got out on the main road and above 40 mph it was really bad on and off the gas. I think the rear shaft might need new u-joints as there is about 1/16" of lateral play in the joint. I.e. the caps are tight in the yoke, but the joint can move side to side in the joint.

Also notice during the test drive a couple more of the engine monitors were set. I think there are only 3 left and no check engine light yet.

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Old 10-19-2017, 08:57 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Ended up swapping out the stock FJ60 master cylinder for a FZJ80 master and that made a work of difference on far as pedal feel and how well the brakes work now.

Also finally sorted out my driveline issues. I sacked up and had a new driveline build by B W Driveline in Aubirn, CA. These guys were great, extremely quick, and responsive. I even got a heads up call from Bud, to let me know that my driveline would be done in 20 minute. Talk about customer service. We ended up going to a 1350 CV at the T-case and a standard Toyota joint at the differential. The nice thing is, when I go to one ton axles I will just need to change the slop out to a 1350 style and be good to go.







During the first test drive, it was a night and day difference. Where anytime with the old shaft I would have vibrations when letting off the gas. Also I could not get above 45 without it sounding like everything wanted to explode. With the new shaft I did have a little vibration here and there but very faint.

In order to fix this, I ended up cutting the perches off the rear axle and rotating the pinion up to aim at the t-case flange. Something I figured I would have to do. Once I did this I had no vibrations up to 65 mph, havent gone faster than that as I still dont have rear shocks. I did order a set of Bilstein 7100s with 275/78 valving for the rear.
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:00 PM   #70 (permalink)
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After doing a bit of research, ended up ordering a pair of Bilstein 7100s for the rear. I ordered them in the 14" 275/78 flavor. Due to the length I also built a new shock tower.









Even with the new tower the shocks are a bit too long. I plan on ordering a set of 12" 7100s and moving the 14s to the front.
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:01 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Well today is the big day, the dreaded appointment with the CA BAR Referee. I have been driving the cruiser for the last few days to and from work and everything has been great. Drive decently but does need new front shocks and had a few leaks. One was from a bad trans pan gasket, which I replaced with a lube locker gasket. The other was the rear hub seals were bad, so i replaced everything last weekend and repacked the bearings.

So far all of the emission monitors have set except for the evap monitor, which from my understanding on 2000 and newer vehicles is not required to be set. Through this process I have had zero check engine lights or pending codes, so I am pretty confident all systems are working properly. However, who knows what the referee is going to knit pick on.
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:02 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Well things didn't go well.

Was nailed on a couple of things:
1: Evap Monitor was not set, I guess for motor swaps this need to be complete. Also had 2 pending codes but none of my scanners can read them. He would not tell me what the codes are.

2: I was told I am not allowed to modify the exhaust at all, from the exhaust manifold flanges till the rear 02 sensors. I asked him about this due to the frame being in the way and I was told that I would have to cut my frame as that is how BAR wants it? This cant be right I as I was under the impression that as long as the Cats were in a few inches of their original location it was ok.

3: Said I modified the ECM as I had VATs removed and this is not allowed. He told me I have to install the entire body module from the donor vehicle and the ECM can not be flashed in any manner. No idea on this one. Said I needed to supply documentation from the dealer showing the vehicle has the correct ecu/flash?

4: Said the motor needed air injection. The ECM and harness that came with the motor did not have air injection so I am confused on this one. His scan showed a 2001 5.3, so are there any configurations out there without air injection? I had a buddy pull the vin on the way home 1GCEK19T41E122562. Does anyone have a way to verify the emissions requirements for me?

Only good news is it passed on the dyno and all measured emissions were low. What I dont get is why cant I get a pass when the new motor runs cleaner than any old tired 2F out there?





At this point I am lost and defeated. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I am not sure where to go from here.
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:02 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Ok,

So I emailed Brendan at LT1Swap.com , who did my ecm programming about if he removed the air injection.

Here is what he said:
"AIR injection was only on CA emission equipped gm trucks. Federal emission trucks never had AIR injection. 2002 did away with EGR on all 5.3l engines. My notes say it was with EGR, so 2001 would be correct. The calibration in your PCM did not have AIR injection. EGR YES"

So my next question is, if the motor was a federal motor then in order to swap it into a CA compliant vehicle does it need the air injection?

Thanks
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:17 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJeep74 View Post
Ok,

So I emailed Brendan at LT1Swap.com , who did my ecm programming about if he removed the air injection.

Here is what he said:
"AIR injection was only on CA emission equipped gm trucks. Federal emission trucks never had AIR injection. 2002 did away with EGR on all 5.3l engines. My notes say it was with EGR, so 2001 would be correct. The calibration in your PCM did not have AIR injection. EGR YES"

So my next question is, if the motor was a federal motor then in order to swap it into a CA compliant vehicle does it need the air injection?

Thanks
If you get your vehicle BAR'd as a 2001 engine then you would need the air injection. If 2002 does not have air injection then you may be able to use a 2002 ECM that does not require it instead of trying to add air injection in.
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:25 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Adding the air injection would not be hard. Only real issue is I would have to send the computer back out to have the controls added in. This might be the better option as the camaro manifolds already have the ports, and the ref would most likely over look the fact that they are not truck manifolds.
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