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Old 04-18-2018, 06:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
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new to me 73 FJ40

So i pulled the trigger last night on a deal i felt i could not pass up on a 73 FJ40:




some specs:
73 fj40 with hard top, bikini and soft doors included.
freshly rebuilt TBI 350 already wired
freshly rebuilt SM465
NP205
Dana 44 front, shortened with chromoly shafts
dana 60 semifloat rear, shorteded with Dutchman shafts
uninstalled 4.88's front and rear and rear detroit
brand new( but old) 35" KM1's
pile of associated parts from years of the PO collecting.

all in all i have about 3500 in it with trades and cash.

I was previously building this:
T100 Family Wheeler. AKA the Mutant Turtle

now to figure out what i am going to keep from the T100 build for the FJ and what is for sale because the wife will not let me build both or do i really have the time to.
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Old 04-18-2018, 06:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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got a little done on her lately.

about 92" wheel base

probably about 64-1/2" wide with the axles that came in it.

bolted up my 37's still about 12" top of tire to top of fender. need to drop her some





pulled the dana and threw in my fj80 widened axle and swapped the springs around to gain about 4" to wheel base. 75" outside of tire to outaside of tire with the old axle and 35's not 84" with the fj80 and my 37's and rims.


pulled off the giant rear bumper. anyone need a rear winch bumper?

trying to get the motor stabbed in with he trans next to show conflicts with the 3 link as i am fabbing.
stay tuned.
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Old 04-18-2018, 06:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
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i got the motor and trans stabbed in this weekend:


not a big milestone but i really want to get the fenders and grill on also so i know what i need to avoid when building the front 3 link, or i should say what i need to figure out how to move....lol
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Old 04-18-2018, 06:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
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not a whole lot of progress but I did start upping the front suspension for the 3 link:



but now I have to pull the motor to swap out the transmission because this fell in my lap:


NV4500/atlas 3.8:1, old but never been run. got too good of a deal to pass up. just need to buy fluids for it and swap the yokes for Toyota.

I was going to leave the 4.10's in the axles with the sm465 to make the hwy bearable but now I have OD I can use the 5.29 gear sets already in my tool box and move some of the stress off my driveshafts and pinion flange. I am still planning on using Toyota driveshafts and u joints as I know them and i think they are plenty strong


I have not looked super close but I am assuming at this point my drivetrain weak link is going to be u joint or pinion flange splines. I guess only time will tell.
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Old 04-18-2018, 06:41 PM   #5 (permalink)
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not a whole lot done last night but I did get the yokes swapped out for toy flanges. turns out this atlas was built in 2002 so it was still a 26 spline front output and 32 spline rear. luckily WFO down the road had a dana 44 to toy flange that fit the bill perfectly and a 32 spline toy flange for the rear.



also wire wheeled the nv4500 to give it a little paint to keep it from rusting any further.





hopefully this weekend I can pull the motor and get this bolted up and stabbed in. need to rebuild a new cross member now also.
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Old 04-18-2018, 06:43 PM   #6 (permalink)
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so not as fast getting them swapped as I hoped but that is life.

pulled the motor and trans last night but first had to build a little jack extension to put under the transmission because I was tired of the old stacking of wood block sketchiness.

I used a short piece of axle shaft and a scrap of 1/4" plate to fit on the jack and a tube and angle iron slip on attachment to get the extra height. this seemed a lot more stable than the 4x4's I used to stack on the floor jack to get extra height.




I did get the motor out so now to bolt up the new trans and transfer case and fab a cross member to hold it in place and then get to the links.

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Old 04-18-2018, 10:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I like it. What is your wheelbase going to end up being?
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Old 04-19-2018, 10:05 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I like it. What is your wheelbase going to end up being?
If I leave the rear axle where it is at right now I should be right around 100”. If I get the drive train in and need more rear drive shaft I could push it back another couple inches.
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Old 04-19-2018, 11:32 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I managed to get my 40 wheeler to 103 on leafs running 37's. Works pretty good, Still catwalks up steep stuff sometimes. Interested to see how it turns out. Planning an 80 series rear axle swap soon. Was thinking I'd build a 60 series front with an axle tube extension on the short side to match. You think the 44 will hold up?
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Old 04-19-2018, 11:47 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I managed to get my 40 wheeler to 103 on leafs running 37's. Works pretty good, Still catwalks up steep stuff sometimes. Interested to see how it turns out. Planning an 80 series rear axle swap soon. Was thinking I'd build a 60 series front with an axle tube extension on the short side to match. You think the 44 will hold up?
no actually the 44 is up for sale with the rear dana 60 I took out. I have a custom widened FJ60 axle that matches the rear FJ80 I was building for the T100 I am going to use.


right now it is sitting waiting on the knuckles to get back from FROR because I sent them in to get machined for the keyed hi steer arms. I also ordered some of the taqcoma brake conversion plate from FROR and plan on funning first gen tundra brakes in the front to go with the FJ80 rear disks. I think that should stop her pretty well.
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Old 04-19-2018, 02:28 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I like all of this. Please continue.
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Old 04-19-2018, 03:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I like all of this. Please continue.
Thanks. I am trying to keep progress going but it is slow with a 50-65 hr work week and three daughters.

only ever seem to get to work on it in the middle of the night.
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Old 04-23-2018, 11:41 AM   #13 (permalink)
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engine in the fj40, take 2. This time with the NV4500/ Atlas bolted up.





still need to figure out the right height and build the cross member but I can tell you my engine hoist is glad that is over....

also looks like I only have about 21" for the rear drive shaft with where the axle is now. I am so used to Toyota minitruck stuff where you have miles of rear drive shaft so this makes me really nervous.

I think with the rear leafs I have now I could probably push the axle back another 2-3" before I have to get into mounting the shackles off the back of the frame. do you guys out there in keyboard cowboy land think 24" long for a rear CV shaft? I need to figure angles based on final ride height because this thing is getting lowered a bunch, but 24" sounds short to me.
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:34 PM   #14 (permalink)
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24" seems short to me. I run a set of 60 series springs in the rear with the 2nd leaf flipped and redrilled so the short side (center pin to eye) is at the back and the military wrap is still at the fixed end. I find they work well like this in my rig. I would consider pushing the rear shackle back past the end of the frame to get your ride height a bit lower.
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Old 04-24-2018, 07:56 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Nice work!

How does the floor jack adapter mount to the floor jack? Does it bolt in place where the foot used to go?

I tried to build something similar to that to mount a transmission jack adapter but it was too wobbly to be of any use. Curious how you got it to be rigid.
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Old 04-24-2018, 10:27 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
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24" seems short to me. I run a set of 60 series springs in the rear with the 2nd leaf flipped and redrilled so the short side (center pin to eye) is at the back and the military wrap is still at the fixed end. I find they work well like this in my rig. I would consider pushing the rear shackle back past the end of the frame to get your ride height a bit lower.
I have been reading up to see where others rear drive shaft lengths ended up and I have seen a couple 40's with the h55 5 speed in the 18" to 21" drive shaft length so sounds like I am not too far off. I am thinking I am going to use a front CV shaft from a mini truck for the rear in the 40 and do a 2 piece from a rear mini truck for the front so I can make the front and rear CV sections about the same for trail spare ease and help be able to skid plate more under the 40. we will see how that theory works out.

I will have to look into the fj60 springs. I am not sure what springs I have in the rear right now but seeing as I was pretty much at a stock wheel base before I started meddling I am assuming they are some sort of aftermarket lift spring for the fj40.

I know the ranger f150 spring is a very offset center pin that can also do pretty well. we will see where my front ends up height wise to see how much lower I need to go on the rear and how clever I need to get.

Quote:
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Nice work!

How does the floor jack adapter mount to the floor jack? Does it bolt in place where the foot used to go?

I tried to build something similar to that to mount a transmission jack adapter but it was too wobbly to be of any use. Curious how you got it to be rigid.
the ground down section of the shaft fits in where the pin from the original foot goes and the section that still has splines slips inside the 1-1/4" sched 40 tube. it is not perfectly rigid and has some slop but worked well enough to hold the tail shaft elevation right. would I put it under an axle and jack up the truck? probably kill a bus full of nuns.....

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Old 04-24-2018, 12:20 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
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the ground down section of the shaft fits in where the pin from the original foot goes and the section that still has splines slips inside the 1-1/4" sched 40 tube. it is not perfectly rigid and has some slop but worked well enough to hold the tail shaft elevation right. would I out it under an axle and jack up the truck? probably kill a bus full of nuns.....
I like it
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Old 05-15-2018, 04:17 PM   #18 (permalink)
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not a bunch to report but I finally received my knuckles and FROR keyed histeer arms back and I am pumped!!!! these things are BEEF!



I also purchased some ARP studs for the hi steer arms and the FROR Tacoma brake adapter kit so I can put first gen tundra front brakes on this:

I tried out this "Steel-It" paint given to me by one of our vendors. It is supposed to be super tough and durable and you can weld over the top of it they say. we will see how it works on these knuckles:




in this last picture you can see the machined part on the knuckle so the hi steer arm slides down over the top of the knuckle by roughly 1/4". should help keep some of the strain off of the studs.
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Old 05-15-2018, 04:20 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I installed the ARP's and the stock bottom studs and then bolted the knuckles on with a temp tie rod to get ready to mock this thing up under the truck.



I think I grossly miss estimated the caster angle I tacked the knuckles on at because the hi steer arms seem turned up really far but hopefully I can get it under the truck where I think ride height will be and turn them to be right and then start getting the link mounts in place.
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Old 05-19-2018, 12:03 PM   #20 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=ryantowry_81;43819273

I think I grossly miss estimated the caster angle I tacked the knuckles on at because the hi steer arms seem turned up really far but hopefully I can get it under the truck where I think ride height will be and turn them to be right and then start getting the link mounts in place.[/QUOTE]



The easiest and most accurate way I have done this is like you are describing. Keep the knuckles tacked or loose get the axle under the truck at ride height. Get pinion angle right then adjust the caster to where you want it then tack and weld the knuckle balls.
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Old 05-21-2018, 11:21 AM   #21 (permalink)
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The easiest and most accurate way I have done this is like you are describing. Keep the knuckles tacked or loose get the axle under the truck at ride height. Get pinion angle right then adjust the caster to where you want it then tack and weld the knuckle balls.
yeah that is exactly why I just tacked them in place. I knew I would need to massage them some. I was just surprised by how far off my estimation was. guess I should dink less or sleep more when working on the truck..haha
most of this work has been done between midnight and 5am due to work and kids etc.
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Old 05-21-2018, 11:22 AM   #22 (permalink)
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so a little more done over the weekend.

got the axle rolled under the truck and started planning location. I broke the tacks and rotated the knuckles to 7 degrees caster with the pinion pointed to the t case so it should be closer to actual now. just trying to figure out how far forward and how high to place bump right now.



where I have it in the pictures is about 1" from the tie rod hitting the frame, and the axle is about 4-1/2" forward from stock. If I move it back about 2" I can get the bump higher or I might have to notch the frame. I really want to keep 6" uptravel from ride height and keep it as low as possible for CG reasons.
then I threw on the tires and fenders for some reference and motivation.


she is definitely wide! and I am definitely going to need to do some custom fenders but I am thinking moving the axle back 2" and notching the frame is where I will probably go next, just need to make sure firewall clearance is good for a 40 for possible future growth.

once i get the axle location figured out i plan on building the links backwards of most. i figure i will tack them in place where they fit well then throw those numbers in the calculator and then start massaging from there. i figured there was no reason to come up with link lengths and position in the calculator just to find out they wont work under the truck.

(sorry for the big pics. I am still figuring out imgur mobile app)

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Old 06-28-2018, 11:52 AM   #23 (permalink)
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not a big update but I finally got some time to work on her.

picked up two IFS CV drive shafts from a good friend for free and cut one apart to start mockup on the front shaft.




I got lucky and just happened to have some drive shaft tubing I was given by a friend a while back that looks to be real close to the right length. only buzz kill is my Toyota flange on the atlas does not have the CV pattern so I am going to have to take it off and drill it for the new pattern.

I also tacked in the lower links and raised the axle until the tie rod would hit the frame to see how it would look. this will require some notching for the drag link for sure but would gain me 2" of up travel hence lowering the ride height 2". right now the lower links are 44" eye to eye and I think the upper is going to end up around 36-40" I think.




in the last two pictures you can see I started to try and place the upper link in there and it is tight. if I had it strait up and down it would contact the nut on the fan belt. I angled it back to where I think it would fit at full bump and have a little clearance for adjustment but it brings my vertical separation down to around 6" which is slightly concerning. I am also going to probably have to bend my upper link some to clear the motor mount unless I rework the motor mount too.

if I can make this as my full bump it would put my frame height at full bump around 16.5" so if I add in 5" up travel it would put me about 21.5" to frame at ride height, then 2" down or so for the belly pan would make the belly around 19.5". this is a little low but I can always turn the shocks up to around 6" up travel and get my belly over 20 if needed.

Last edited by ryantowry_81; 06-28-2018 at 11:54 AM.
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Old 07-02-2018, 04:19 PM   #24 (permalink)
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so a little more:

I got the atlas flange drilled for the CV pattern for the front drive shaft and threw that in and dropped the axle 5" on my axle holding jig to estimate ride height. then I threw together a temp drag ling from some extra SS pipe I had laying around.





I am liking how flat the drag link is around ride height but I think I might see if a flat pittman arm with the hiem below woud help raise the steering box end just slightly and help keep it from being the low point when at full bump.
I also measured the lower links and they are about 3 degrees upward at full bump and about 4 degrees down at ride height. I think this is decently flat so should have ok manners on the road.

then I threw a fender and tire on at the estimated ride height for a visual.




looks a lot less crazy wide down near ride height. I am definitely going to have to build tube fenders or move these fenders up to hood level almost to clear the tires when articulated.
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Old 07-24-2018, 03:24 PM   #25 (permalink)
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no real big updates besides this thing will be being put on hold for a while. I just accepted a new position in Yakima WA so I will be moving and needing to find a new home before I can start work on it again.
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