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Old 11-17-2004, 02:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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What radiator to run in FJ40?

I need a radiator for my cruiser. I am not worried about stock location, but I want my 350 to cool NICE!!!! What radiator do you guys run, and what radiator would you run given a choice? I would like ot Run an AL rad from Summit. Those are cheap, and I know will work well.

For those of you that made a custom mount, how did you make it? Got pics?
What kind of fan are you guys running? Electric or Manual?

Thanks
Dima
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Old 11-17-2004, 02:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Dima,

I am interested as well..

One of the next steps for me as well. I plan on running a black magic fan on mine..

St
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Old 11-17-2004, 02:28 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Search the Gen 4x4 thread, there is a very good aluminum radiator thread telling you to stay away from Griffin with a cheaper better alternative. I think you need a 19 high by 22 wide and need to have mounts fabbed up (but that is easy enough).
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Old 11-17-2004, 02:45 PM   #4 (permalink)
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stock!
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Old 11-17-2004, 02:45 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Ive always had great luck bumping the stock radiator up to a staggerd 5 row.A lot easier to fix than an aluminum on the trail and you already have mounting brackets.Most radiator shops can do it for you.They use the stock upper and lower tanks and use a Modine core.Usually runs a couple of hundred dollars.
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Old 11-17-2004, 03:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
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From my experience the stock radiator blows...it probably doesn't help that I'm turning around 2700 rpms on the highway. This summer I'll probably get the biggest aluminum radiator I can and shove in there. Also, I'm running an electric fan but will be swapping a tarus fan over x-mas.


I take that back. I have a CCOT 3-core radiator. I can heat my motor up faster than Emeral can an oven.
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Old 11-17-2004, 03:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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NO WAY on the stock rad. Going AL for sure. I tried the stock one before, had it recored and retubed. NO luck at all. Going the AL route. I plan on running a tube for a rad support inside the truck. Then I will mouint the Rad off there.

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Old 11-17-2004, 04:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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As Simon said, stocker, recored to 5 tube staggered works and works remarkably well, with a shroud. No shroud, no cool. I never get over 195 on the freeway or on the trail, summer, winter, it doesn't matter. My 350 is a crate motor, and it sits about 4 inches in front of the firewall, which makes a huge difference in the cooling. Most cooling probs I've seen were because the engine was too close to the firewall....The guys running the aluminum rads should try to fix them on the trail.....ugghhh. YMMV, but you did ask for experiences and opinions, we all got em'!
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Old 11-17-2004, 04:19 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Whitey is using a fj60 rad that I had 5 rowed years back. He has no problems at all with his big block and manual fan. I like to run the fullsize chevy truck 4 row radiators. Never a problem even on the hottest days crawling and super easy to repair on the trail. Manual fan is the only one I will run.
I made a custom mount that bolts to the stock lc radiator bracket holes.
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Old 11-17-2004, 05:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I saw this the other noght on ebay. Great Radiator. Usually over 550.00. 21 hours left. No affiliation but I bought a be cool for my rig. Nice quality.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
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Old 11-17-2004, 05:49 PM   #11 (permalink)
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let's see. soa fj45lv stock rad, no shroud, V8,........185 all day!
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Old 11-17-2004, 07:23 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orangefj45
let's see. soa fj45lv stock rad, no shroud, V8,........185 all day!

I hate people like you. Is that on the highway too? What RPMs are you turning on the highway? Maybe I should run dual radiators
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Old 11-17-2004, 07:36 PM   #13 (permalink)
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as big an AL radiator as you can fit.

BTW, PM me you r addy so I can send you a check..
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Old 11-17-2004, 08:19 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxCruzr
I hate people like you. Is that on the highway too? What RPMs are you turning on the highway? Maybe I should run dual radiators

if i push it on the freeway, it'll climb to 210-215 if i sustain speed at or above 80mph, above 3k rpm. but that's in summer in the central valley in CA.
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Old 11-17-2004, 11:32 PM   #15 (permalink)
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https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...hlight=griffin

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/produc...No=4&redirect=

Can't beat the price either...
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Old 11-17-2004, 11:46 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxCruzr
From my experience the stock radiator blows...it probably doesn't help that I'm turning around 2700 rpms on the highway. This summer I'll probably get the biggest aluminum radiator I can and shove in there. Also, I'm running an electric fan but will be swapping a tarus fan over x-mas.

I take that back. I have a CCOT 3-core radiator. I can heat my motor up faster than Emeral can an oven.
I would blame the electric fan long before the rad.

The BeCool billet welded rad seems the best for stock-mounted cooling and, if equipped with the trans cooler, manual trans rigs can set up PS cooling. Damned expensive.

Another expensive, well cooling, but ease-of-trail-repair rad, is the US Radiator "Tripleflow" copper/brass version. They add two baffles in each tank to make the coolant pass thru the core in thirds successively which gives the fan, esp weak electric fans (they all are ), three opportunities to cool the, er, coolant. Popular option when space constraints rule out larger rads/cores, like with vintage vehicles that have only enough rad space for a small rad that was sized for an old, small displacement eng. Be sure to ask if available for vertical flow apps.

Tripleflow bumps the price up to $4-500, though. Would have been $521 for my K10, but I passed 'cause I'm selling that one eventually.

Another typical pimpmeister post from me. I do love talking up cool automotive products.
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Old 11-18-2004, 12:07 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I had a big problem with this. If you search you could probably find it. I ended up using a allum. rad. from summit HOWE hre-342a28 and the BE-Cool dual fans BCI-75007. The summit rad wont fit the fans.

I had a few different setups in here including mechanical fan with a shroud. This seems to be the best. 180 freeway at 70, 200 max on trail in summer. I am also TPI which likes to run hot from the start.

Mounting is easy. Just find where you want it and make some brackets. Bend some wire and take it in to find a rad hose.
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Old 11-18-2004, 05:55 AM   #18 (permalink)
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i picked up a bad ass radiator from blue torch fabworks....i think it was 170 bucks, what ever size i wanted....its a two core aluminum...very nice
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Old 11-18-2004, 10:07 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Anyone else remember that radiator thread in General where the whole AL vs Copper radiator myth was dispelled? yeah, it's great for a race car, but at steady amounts of heat, the cheaper copper one works as well, was the conclusion IIRC.

Oh - V8, 4 core stock rad, 38's, 4.11, was running right on the t-stat at 65mph, back when it went on the highway... my problem was rebuilt water pumps. Got a new one, problem solved.
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Old 11-18-2004, 11:04 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Copper radiators expell heat better, but all the solder used to put it together is what makes them inefficiant. aluminum can be made with larger cores, and have more surface area than copper radiators


at least thats what was explained to me
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Old 11-18-2004, 11:09 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Can you just use the radiator that comes with the v8 engine? And I'm with Orange45... try the stock one if you still have problems, upgrade from there.

- Rico.
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Old 11-18-2004, 11:36 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Can you just use the radiator that comes with the v8 engine? And I'm with Orange45... try the stock one if you still have problems, upgrade from there.

- Rico.

But why build 2 times when you can build it right once?

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Old 11-18-2004, 11:38 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Couple of quick things. V8's like to run at or around 200deg, late model fi motors have 195 t-stats. I do not like to get much over 210-215, under heavy load. The temp reading varies, depending on where you locate the sender. A stock cruiser radiator will cool a built 350 just fine, but you need a fan shroud, and the fan needs to sit at the right depth into the shroud to pull air through the radiator. I like aluminum, Be cool, or Griffen. I did just get a stock radiator from Mark's Offroad, and it will cool the TBI 350 it is going in front of fine. I did not want an AL radiator in the 45lwb, I am trying to use as many stock parts as I can, other than the engine, trans.
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Old 11-18-2004, 12:29 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I recently solved my overheating problems. This is the order I went to solve it

1. replaced stock radiator with 19X26 in al. radiator from summit( still overheated when rockcrawling)

2. Custom fan shroud and high volume water pump 195* thermostat. fixed overheated problem runs 195 degrees all day

I have come to 2 conclusions:

1. If you overheat on the highway, then you dont have enough radiator

2. If you overheat rockcrawling, then you are not moving enough air
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Old 11-18-2004, 12:39 PM   #25 (permalink)
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1. If you overheat on the highway, then you dont have enough radiator

2. If you overheat rockcrawling, then you are not moving enough air
I agree.
I got a 'high effeciency' stock dimension 3-core that the local rad shop guaranteed would keep my truck cool. Worked much better on the highway then the stock rad I had before but still not enough.
Even on a chilly day I can hit 220 on the highway if I push it hard enough.
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