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Old 12-10-2012, 08:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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D60/Toyota Hybrid 06 Tacoma Build

Hello all, I have wanted to build this axle for awhile and when the junkyard gave me a D50 instead of a D60 that I had originally planned to replace my D44 for strength/simplicity, but after that I decided to go back to this idea. I think I'll name this axle the LC60 since it's mainly a Landcruiser/D60 hybrid.

FZJ80 3rd Member $210
ARB RD142 $839
4.88's $218
35 Spline Side gear for ARB $370
Driver Drop Ruffstuff housing $600
Superior Stub Shafts 35spline 9.39" $148.32 each
Superior (Branik) Short Side Inner 20.75" 35spline
Superior (Branik) Long Side Inner 35.10" 35spline
Bobby Long U-joints $400
Synergy HD ball joints $125/pair
Spidertrax UB's $500/set

Comparison:
LC 3rd: Low pinion with 27 splines, 9.5" Ring Gear
Hi-9: Hi Pinion with 28 splines, 9" Ring Gear
D60: Hi Pinion with 29 splines, 9.75" Ring Gear

ARB's: Both for Ford 9" and D60 are 35 spline, so I will have added work of broaching it to fit a 35 spline side gear.

Pinion Deflection: The Hi9 has a load bolt machined into the 3rd which sits close to the ring gear to keep it from deflecting under load. I'm going to machine the same style of brass-tipped load bolt.

So here we go:

Machining Inner C's



Machining Outer Knuckles:




Last edited by 06silverback; 10-26-2013 at 08:57 PM.
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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With the money I got out of my old axle I'll be getting the ARB, 35 spline side gears, and 4.88's tomorrow. The Ruffstuff housing is scheduled to come in on Wednesday. After that I'll have to order axle shafts to begin cutting the housing to the desired width.
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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While I can appreciate the amount of work you're doing, why not just throw a built 60 up front?
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:21 AM   #4 (permalink)
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That was my initial plan actually, but when the junkyard wouldn't take the D50 they delivered back I decided to do this. In the end it will be a better axle IMHO. It will be much lighter than a 60 and with more clearance than even a shaved 60. When I started adding up how much money it was going to take to build a 60 it wasn't a whole lot more. The only thing over what I'd have paid to build a 60 is the side gears to convert it to 35 spline, and the housing. There's alot more machine work to be done, but I've got all winter for that.
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Old 12-16-2012, 07:20 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The back plate is 12" from the top of the frame with the bottom 4" contacting the frame. It will be welded on the sides with two 1.75" holes for plug welds to the frame (which is already plated). There will be two holes in the side plates that you can see up high to hold the shock in. Instead of welding bungs in, I'm going to weld a flat plate to the top of the tower with 1/4" welded tabs facing down so the bolt holding the shock in will run through 4 pieces of plate for strength. Then putting in the engine cross-brace will be fairly easy with the flat plate to weld to. Since the towers will be roughly 2" shorter and further to the outside of the truck they wont take hardly any room up in the engine bay. With a shorter axle that wouldn't work very well, but my front will be pretty wide.
I sold the 14" FOA's I was running and will be buying the same coilover I'm running in the rear (16" Ballistic 2.5")

I know the weight of the truck being held by the coilover will want to push the tower inward, so the brace is critical. I'll be adding a reinforcement plate to the back of the tower that overlaps and will be welded to the frame. Anyone have any suggestions??

Also got this in the mail.....Thanks Ruffstuff!

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Old 09-23-2013, 07:33 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Been a long time since I updated this build thread, so here's a few pics. I will work on getting some others up this week.
Axle mocked up with all brackets on

Double sheer hi steer arms I milled out and drilled/tapped knuckle.

Test cycle. I notched both sides of the frame for the steering links and for the pitman arm since they were hitting at full stuff. The ORI's are 18" travel and I'm looking at 7" uptravel and 11" downtravel. I think here the tire was hitting the bumper and after that, the steering was hitting frame with about 1.5" uptravel left, after that I had to put a bend in the top link because it was contacting the motor mount. Shooting for 24" frame height.

Last edited by 06silverback; 09-23-2013 at 07:36 AM.
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Old 09-23-2013, 12:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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18" ORI's with 7" of up travel and 24" frame height? Are your shocks going to be sticking through the hood?
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Old 09-23-2013, 01:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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18" ORI's with 7" of up travel and 24" frame height? Are your shocks going to be sticking through the hood?
No, but they are very close....maybe 1/4" from the hood to the hoop. I had to do a 3 piece hoop and ditch the other tower idea due to space limitations. The ORIs seem to be shorter overall than a CO.
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Old 09-25-2013, 02:42 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Man this truck has changed a lot since I saw it in Hot Springs in 2009.

Nice work!
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Old 09-25-2013, 04:31 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Man this truck has changed a lot since I saw it in Hot Springs in 2009.

Nice work!
Thank you. Hot Springs is where the wheeling bug bit me hard and I've been broke ever since lol. I think I was longer travel IFS then and it's seen about 5 stages of change since then....sure have learned a lot.
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Old 10-02-2013, 02:32 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Can you post a pic of the side veiw of that double sheer setup on your histeer?
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Old 10-02-2013, 05:22 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Can you post a pic of the side veiw of that double sheer setup on your histeer?
Will post it up this morning. The arm was 1" thick when we milled it. I milled maybe 1/8" off to get the angle of the panhard and draglink to match perfectly then cut some 3/16" plate and trimmed it to fit. I notched the side piece so I could see the heim. There's a vendor on here that mills hi steer arms for the 90-04 Ford 60's, but they aren't double sheer. Mine accepts a bolt to go from the top hi steer arm to the stock hole in the lower arm of the knuckle. Arm sits about 1/8" from inner lip of the 17" wheels I have.

Edit: Here's those pics.



Also machined the 3rd for 2 brass tipped set screws to deter any pinion deflection...cheap insurance.

Last edited by 06silverback; 10-02-2013 at 05:41 AM.
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Old 10-02-2013, 04:39 PM   #13 (permalink)
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So cool!
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Old 10-06-2013, 04:38 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Any updates on this, i have been looking at something similar?
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Old 10-07-2013, 06:47 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Been assembling things this week. Got the shafts in, bobby longs, seals, knuckles on, UB's, and hardcore lockouts in.

Driver's side hi steer arm:
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Old 10-07-2013, 01:07 PM   #16 (permalink)
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When I click on this thread my Malware blocker gives me an alert.
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Old 10-07-2013, 02:41 PM   #17 (permalink)
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When I click on this thread my Malware blocker gives me an alert.
Hmmm, that's odd. Hasn't happened to me yet.
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Old 10-07-2013, 04:05 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Who did you get to make the shafts for you? Did you change the side gears in the arb to match the D60 or getting custom shafts that fit the cruiser diff ?
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:10 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Who did you get to make the shafts for you? Did you change the side gears in the arb to match the D60 or getting custom shafts that fit the cruiser diff ?
New 35 spline side gears from Wild West Offroad and Branik cut/splined my shafts from Foote Axle (Superior). Long side is a 35.10" Chevy long side inner and the other had to be a 21.75" custom length. Width is just over 71" I think...need to measure
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Old 10-17-2013, 07:30 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Putting things back together. Final steering link angles.


Used poly bushings on draglink heim to keep it from flopping around due to the small bend to clear the top link mount.


Turned my old arm into a double sheer one. The gusset on the inside is further back to avoid it hitting the heim/link at full driver.
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Old 10-19-2013, 07:14 AM   #21 (permalink)
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i like your idea for the double shear on the pitman arm, i am going to steal that one if you do not mind
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Old 10-19-2013, 08:34 AM   #22 (permalink)
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i like your idea for the double shear on the pitman arm, i am going to steal that one if you do not mind
It bugs me to see single shear stuff....dunno why because I've never seen one break/fail. I didn't want the heim on the lower end of a drop arm because I think it puts more stress on the sector shaft. I also didn't want a straight arm because I needed a tad of drop, so I just added some plate and went double sheer and notched the frame slightly to clear the bolt head.
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Old 10-26-2013, 09:02 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Finally got my ORI's charged today. I put 100 psi in lower chamber for dampening and put close to 550 psi in upper chamber to get my ride height...them bled a bit off to lower it down to 24 1/4" frame height figuring it'd settle just a bit. Then I finished connecting the last few wires after relocating my battery and to my surprise I got power on the first try. Here's how it sets now.


Going to measure for HA hoses tomorrow morning, then still have to hook that up, put in larger MC with line lock, put in cold air intake (shock tower location doesnt allow one I had to fit), and take it to exhaust shop.
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Old 12-21-2013, 12:49 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Haven't worked on the truck in awhile, but I'll post some recent progress. I got my chevy big bore MC in with VERY little room to spare.


I'm using brake rotors from Currie that were re-drilled to a 6 lug pattern. They have a kit, but didn't want to sell me just the rotors/spacers. The spacer is used because the rotor is shallower. I just made a quick spacer to get an idea, and it needed to be a bit bigger to get the rotor closer to the center of the caliper bracket.



After I was done I had to grind on the caliper bracket just a little bit to clear the wheel.

Last edited by 06silverback; 12-21-2013 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 05-30-2014, 02:43 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Been awhile since I updated stuff on here. I got my MC working...had to switch to a T100 which worked much better space-wise, eliminated the ABS block by using 2 tee's, and got my HA stuff on. I still need to put on my PSC pump/pulley as the stock pump is sluggish. I'm changing up the front bumper a bit and finally bit the bullet and got some 40" Toyo's.

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