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Old 09-01-2015, 06:42 PM   #26 (permalink)
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The good news is that they still use hydraulic steering (with a pump on the engine, unlike electronic racks) and the suspension pickup points are the same as the previous generation (so things like SAS kits should fit). You are right be concerned about the electronics though. The biggest challenge will be keeping the dash from lighting up as you ditch the ESP, ABS, and other components that Toyota certainly considers essential.

Another nice feature on the 2016 is that the ones with Crawl Control use hydroboost. That would be cool to swap into an older Tacoma.
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Old 09-02-2015, 02:41 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Tight squeeze that eats doors on smaller trucks and jeeps. Made it through with nothing more than a small scratch on the front drivers side fender. And those are WIDE fenders too.
I didn't know you gotten through that trail...amazing. even much smaller pre-Tacos have problems there
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Old 09-02-2015, 02:44 AM   #28 (permalink)
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C'mon Wyatt..... Do an RST 2016dc... Doooooo iiiit.
I wonder what electronic bullshit Toyota has thrown into the new trucks...Took Wyatt and Marlin a while to beat the gremlins in the '05.
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Old 09-02-2015, 11:26 AM   #29 (permalink)
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The width of our fronts makes it easier if that makes any sense....changes the line. Here's my rig on a tall Boulder in MO for an example of breakover angles:
[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/jrd3523/media/Mobile%20Uploads/CBC979C0-9EEE-4210-AEEF-5ED99B013DD4_zpsc8xzssnk.jpg.html][/URL



And my new updated front:
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Old 09-02-2015, 12:46 PM   #30 (permalink)
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do your rear links help protect the drive line in spots like that?
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Old 09-02-2015, 02:06 PM   #31 (permalink)
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do your rear links help protect the drive line in spots like that?
To some extent mine help keep my DS from getting mauled because the sit just lower for that reason. The stock gas tank location is what I always hated and was my final reason to run a double triangulated 4 link. If that rock is on the other side with a stock tank location you're setting right on it whether it's got a skid or not. The way I arranged mine allows me to have a totally flat surface from the front crossmember all the way back. Was it a bitch?.....yes, but it works really well
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Old 09-02-2015, 03:02 PM   #32 (permalink)
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To some extent mine help keep my DS from getting mauled because the sit just lower for that reason. The stock gas tank location is what I always hated and was my final reason to run a double triangulated 4 link. If that rock is on the other side with a stock tank location you're setting right on it whether it's got a skid or not. The way I arranged mine allows me to have a totally flat surface from the front crossmember all the way back. Was it a bitch?.....yes, but it works really well
hi-pinion RockJock 60 in the rear?
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Old 09-02-2015, 03:08 PM   #33 (permalink)
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hi-pinion RockJock 60 in the rear?
Most seem to head that route, but I didn't. I run a 9.5" FF Landcruiser rear and a 9.5" Landcruiser/D60 hybrid up front. Built both from scratch
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Old 09-02-2015, 04:19 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Most seem to head that route, but I didn't. I run a 9.5" FF Landcruiser rear and a 9.5" Landcruiser/D60 hybrid up front. Built both from scratch
ah, forgot about that from your original build...

I like the HP 60 with the pinion up nearly 8" higher than stock.
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Old 09-02-2015, 07:48 PM   #35 (permalink)
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It was cheaper for me to build mine since I can machine stuff on my time. The RJ are pretty inflated as far as price goes. The 9.5" is a mid-pinion setup with only probably 1-2" of difference in pinion height. Haven't touched mine once
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Old 09-02-2015, 09:25 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I wonder what electronic bullshit Toyota has thrown into the new trucks...Took Wyatt and Marlin a while to beat the gremlins in the '05.
Heres the cool thing..... Shhhhhhhsssss......... I've got it figured out already. hehehehehehe.
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Old 09-02-2015, 09:29 PM   #37 (permalink)
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It was cheaper for me to build mine since I can machine stuff on my time. The RJ are pretty inflated as far as price goes. The 9.5" is a mid-pinion setup with only probably 1-2" of difference in pinion height. Haven't touched mine once
Actually the difference is 3" from the LC 9.5" rear to the Currie Rock Jock 60 But it is a great axle and I'm actually installing it into a build I'll be doing here very soon. It'll also have an LC front High pinion as well.

Here is the LC 9.5. Very nice diff but is really more a low pinion than a mid. Kinda inbetween.



My Rock Jock 60 rear axle.



It's WAY up there.
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Old 09-02-2015, 09:33 PM   #38 (permalink)
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hi-pinion RockJock 60 in the rear?
I'm running the HP 60 Currie Rock Jock and love them I scraped the hell out of my rear links here but didn't touch the drive shaft. And I've never hit my gas tank skid either. Maybe it's in the back of my mind to protect it but I did put a Bud Built skid on it but have never scraped it yet.

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Old 09-02-2015, 09:40 PM   #39 (permalink)
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I never said the RJ wasn't a good axle, it is. I just would prefer building my own rather than buy one someone else built. I actually enjoy learning the ins and outs of things, even tho it can cause headaches at times....part of it.
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Old 09-03-2015, 05:52 AM   #40 (permalink)
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I never said the RJ wasn't a good axle, it is. I just would prefer building my own rather than buy one someone else built. I actually enjoy learning the ins and outs of things, even tho it can cause headaches at times....part of it.
After reading my reply I can see why you answered the way you did. What I meant was the LC axle was a very good axle. I'm actually going to use two Diamond axle's with the LC 9.5's in them for Big G's build.

I've watched your build and love that you built your own axle's. I wish I had that kind of time on these projects. I did tear my front axle apart to replace a couple of bad seals from when we changed the top link mount. Caused the seals to leak.

I have to say I'd much rather have the drop out pumpkin instead of messing with the cover and then having to put my ring gear and carrier in the freezer over night just to get it back in. That was a pain.
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Old 09-03-2015, 08:06 AM   #41 (permalink)
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After reading my reply I can see why you answered the way you did. What I meant was the LC axle was a very good axle. I'm actually going to use two Diamond axle's with the LC 9.5's in them for Big G's build.

I've watched your build and love that you built your own axle's. I wish I had that kind of time on these projects. I did tear my front axle apart to replace a couple of bad seals from when we changed the top link mount. Caused the seals to leak.

I have to say I'd much rather have the drop out pumpkin instead of messing with the cover and then having to put my ring gear and carrier in the freezer over night just to get it back in. That was a pain.
I wasn't trying to be difficult and say the RJ wasn't a good choice, but $9K is too steep for me for a fully built one.

I had real specific reasons for building mine how I did and the dropout 3rd had a lot to do with it. I can break down my front axle in literally 30-45min and reassemble just as fast if I have any problems. I'm also looking at upgrading the rear to 35 spline shafts so I can swap diffs in the event a rear one lets loose (unlikely). I don't trailer my rig, so a 4 hr to 9hr drive back isn't possible without fixing whatever broke right then and there, hence my wanting to go with a FF rear end.

When I started looking at a hi9 the cost of the specially cut gears/carrier I couldn't really justify not doing a LC 9.5" hybrid. Besides the pinion splines and little extra pinion height there's not a ton of difference after I machined in the 2 load bolts above and below the pinion.
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Old 04-21-2016, 12:03 PM   #42 (permalink)
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I'm looking at doing it all over again People called me crazy then but not anymore.
Wait wait wait... does this mean you're selling the Beast?!
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Old 04-21-2016, 12:43 PM   #43 (permalink)
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just caught up and digging that front bumper
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Old 04-22-2016, 12:04 PM   #44 (permalink)
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just caught up and digging that front bumper
Wasn't too bad to build. I beefed up the front with some rectangular tube and formed the shell that slides over it with 1/8" steel/gussets and started the tube work
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Old 05-07-2016, 08:32 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Inspirational to see someone thinking about chopping up a 2016 to that extent My eyes will be peeled.

Crawl control and most of those features are wheel speed sensor based, and I'm fairly sure they are disabled simply by unplugging one or more of them (causes a system fault, turns those features off in reaction to that...) I could be wrong though on that....
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Old 05-08-2016, 07:56 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Inspirational to see someone thinking about chopping up a 2016 to that extent My eyes will be peeled.

Crawl control and most of those features are wheel speed sensor based, and I'm fairly sure they are disabled simply by unplugging one or more of them (causes a system fault, turns those features off in reaction to that...) I could be wrong though on that....
What the hell is the point in building a new one if you're going to unplug all of that 21st century technology??? Honestly wtf. It's just newer sheet metal at that point.
You'd be better off buying a new front clip and making that fit the older cab if you're gonna disable all of the modern amenities.

The only purpose in building a new model taco would be if you were going to be cutting edge and keep all the crawl control and wss stuff.

Kinda like me
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Old 05-09-2016, 06:39 PM   #47 (permalink)
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What the hell is the point in building a new one if you're going to unplug all of that 21st century technology??? Honestly wtf. It's just newer sheet metal at that point.
You'd be better off buying a new front clip and making that fit the older cab if you're gonna disable all of the modern amenities.

The only purpose in building a new model taco would be if you were going to be cutting edge and keep all the crawl control and wss stuff.

Kinda like me
Mine has the crawl control (edit: maybe it is DAC "downhill assist"), A-trac, etc....

In all fairness I haven't wheeled it that hard but have a hard time believing all that stuff will work the same a F/R lockers in some stout axle housings... the old school formula... previously had a mildly built TJ so I guess I'm biased.


Read/heard 3rd hand that some of those electronic controls become troublesome beyond a certain tire size and lift height. That is also on a forum where there are frequent "help me name my Tacoma!!!" threads so it is possible they don't have a F'ing clue either I need to do some more research here... got a build thread?

double edit: found your thread
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Old 05-11-2016, 10:52 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Crawling and electronic anything is bound to bite you in the ass and cost a fortune to fix. Like ABS is good for the street, but a PITA in the loose stuff/rocks. I personally hate the electronic crap these vehicles come with, most of which is the damn government mandating safety stuff for ignorant ppl that can't drive.

Cut out the elec t-case, ABS, and put manual stuff in that's 2x as reliable. Draw your speed from the t-case and not some damn wheel speed sensor
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Old 10-03-2018, 01:56 PM   #49 (permalink)
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What about A-trac?

So I'm about to SAS my 2015 SR5. The front axle I am considering using is a fzj80 axle, without the electric locker. For the wheeling I do, toyota's A-TRAC system has worked well for me.

So, those of you who have done a swap on a newer model, is there a way to still have the A-TRAC system work? What about ABS?

Thanks
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Old 10-04-2018, 01:09 PM   #50 (permalink)
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For any of the brave out there in planning to do a solid axle swap and a 3/4 link rear conversion on a 2016 Tacoma, do you plan to get the base SR model 4WD, and work on it from there? Reason why I am asking is because even in the SR5 models and up, there is a whole bunch of techno stuff that one has to deal with when trying to do an SAS.
They include: Rear parking sonar sensors, blind spot monitoring systems, CRAWL Control, and Terrain select.

I feel that doing a solid axle swap on any 2016 Tacoma model SR5 and up, will be a lot more difficult because they put in so many technology on these trucks, that except for the SR model, they have virtually become on road luxury trucks. What do y'all think?


My 2016 SR didn't have any of that

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