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Old 06-18-2017, 06:58 PM   #101 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cougarhouse View Post
It's to bad you didn't go full floater
I would have loved to, but it's not in the budget. I had to re-use as many parts from the Tacoma as possible. Originally I was going to use the Tacoma housing, but I couldn't bring myself to weld the 4WU brackets onto a stock housing. So I ordered the Diamond but kept it stock replacement so I could re-use the shafts. I intend to run Mustang disc brakes with the newer 4Runner rotors if my brackets work.


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What are your plans for the fuel tank? Ford?
This kit has been the plan for the 4Runner since I purchased it. I converted to a Ford tank a couple years ago, shortly after purchase. You can see the frame for it behind the axle. I have a write up on the T4R forum and I added a link to it in the Ford gas tank thread on here.
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Old 07-25-2017, 01:32 PM   #102 (permalink)
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Any Updates?
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Old 07-25-2017, 08:39 PM   #103 (permalink)
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Any Updates?
Yea, Photobucket sucks.

It's crunch time at the moment. Everything is soooo close. I'm hoping to have it driving by Monday, but I hardly ever meet my expected timelines.

Still need to:
Finish exhaust pipes (very close)
Install alternator
Bleed brakes
Flush the master/slave cylinder
Charge A/C
Wire in my front switchback turn signals
Fix the power cable for my amp

The ARB compressor isn't installed yet and I still need to modify my rock sliders, but that will get done after it's back on the road.
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Old 08-31-2017, 04:07 AM   #104 (permalink)
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Truck is finished. Got it back on the road on 30JUL17. Was still fine tuning a few things here and there. The rear pinion flange was a used flange and the sealing surface was worn, so it leaked. I have new flanges that will be installed Friday. Taking it to SETO 13 this weekend at Windrock in Tennessee for it's first trial run!

I still haven't had time to fix the images in this thread, but I just updated the YouTube video on the first page. The video is now the entire process from start to finish.
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:13 PM   #105 (permalink)
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Sweet! How did I miss the SETO dates? Damnit, I was checking at the beginning of summer and didn't see, oh well. I haven't been since 2010 and need to go back.

Good luck on the shakedown run!
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Old 10-03-2017, 04:48 PM   #106 (permalink)
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So did you wheel it?
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Old 11-05-2017, 06:52 PM   #107 (permalink)
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So did you wheel it?
I did. Not much to report though. Windrock is huge and it was my first time there, so we spent a lot of time driving around looking for things and never really found any good obstacles. The weather was pretty shitty too.

Overall it worked great and everything seemed to function as it should. I'm still babying it like I did with the IFS, but that's how I've learned to wheel. Definitely has a different feel to it that I need to get used to. Only issue was noticed on the road drive back to camp. Got bad death wobble around 45mph. Wasn't sure what it was. When I got home I noticed that the bushings in the link joints were loose from being broken in. Ordered the tool to tighten them, replaced the set screws with stainless ones, and everything has been great since.

Unfortunately I'm at a school at the moment that doesn't leave me with much free time. No opportunities to wheel and no time to figure out how to fix the pages in this thread.

But if there's anyone in the Newport, RI area that wants to check out the truck, let me know.
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Old 01-23-2019, 04:05 PM   #108 (permalink)
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Any updates on how it wheels? Gonna be starting a similar build soon!
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Old 01-27-2019, 08:02 PM   #109 (permalink)
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Any updates on how it wheels? Gonna be starting a similar build soon!
Wheels great!

Unfortunately I haven't had many chances to take it out, but it gets driven daily. I had an opportunity to go to Uwharrie National Forest over the summer. There isn't anything crazy there, but it's pretty local and I was able to stretch it's legs a little. Here's a few shots from the trip.













Biggest lesson learned at the moment is that I should have added hydro assist when I built it. I wanted to see how it would do without it first, but now I want it. The steering was binding pretty hard in the section from the last picture. Made it much more difficult than it should have been. And at the moment I'm battling a wheel shimmy on the highway that hydro assist would probably take care of.
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Old 01-27-2019, 08:20 PM   #110 (permalink)
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At the end of the previous post I mentioned a wheel shimmy, maybe someone can help me track it down.

The issue I'm having is that around 60mph, the truck shakes. It's not crazy noticeable in the steering wheel, but the whole body of the truck moves. It gets worse in some turns, but not all. At times the whole truck is bucking pretty badly. I don't think it's death wobble because the steering wheel isn't moving much and I can continue driving through it. I've taken video while driving and you can see the tires wobbling when it happens. Video from the front shows the drag link moving the pitman arm left and right.

So far I've taken apart the links, greased the rebuildable joints and re-torqued them. I tightened the adjuster screw on the steering box 1/4 turn. I had the tires balanced a while ago when I noticed the issue and it didn't help. I had them balanced again last week just to check and I think it actually made it worse. The shimmy seemed to be over a broader range of speed, more like 45-60mph. I just removed all wheel weights and added 9oz of airsoft BBs to each tire this weekend, but haven't had it on the highway yet. A short drive around town make me think the shimmy is still there. I also took the rear driveshaft to a shop to have it checked. The rear u-joint was going bad and they replaced it, but it didn't change anything with the shimmy. All of the tie rods seem to be in good shape. I can't feel any slop when I check them (all steering is TREs). The panhard bar has heims, but them seem ok. I can rotate the panhard by hand, but it's not loose and the joints don't feel like they have any play. The pitman arm is torqued to 130ft-lbs. Wheel bearings seem fine. There isn't any top to bottom play when trying to wiggle the tires. I also had the coilovers recharged to make sure they are at 200psi. Tires are 35x12.50R15 BFG AT KO (not KO2) mounted on 15x8 Level 8 aluminum wheels.

If anyone has any ideas or suggestions please let me know. I'm starting to think that the only solution is either a steering stabilizer or hydro assist.

Last edited by midcoma; 01-28-2019 at 03:15 AM.
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Old 01-28-2019, 08:31 AM   #111 (permalink)
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Did you check your alignment? What is it set to? Also what is your caster angle?
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Old 01-28-2019, 09:07 AM   #112 (permalink)
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Did you check your alignment? What is it set to? Also what is your caster angle?
Yes, thanks for the reminder.

Toe was 3/8" in, I adjusted it to 1/8" in.
Caster is set to 6 degrees.
Visually has positive camber, which I hear is typical of Toyota solid axles.
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Old 01-28-2019, 08:18 PM   #113 (permalink)
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Something that may help-

How fast is the frequency of the vibration? Is it at the speed of the tires? Or the driveshafts?

If it’s driveshaft speed that narrows it down a lot. If it’s tire speed that also reduces a large amount of things it could be.

If it’s tire speed, check everything rotating the same speed as the tires. Are your wheels hubcentric or nutcentric? Are your axle shafts wobbly? Have play in them allow them to shake?

Try rotating the tires front to back. See if it changes anything. Is it possibly just tire balancing?

Do one thing at a time. And test drive it. I’m guessing it’s the wheels on the hubs/not being perfectly centered.
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Old 01-29-2019, 04:46 AM   #114 (permalink)
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Something that may help-
It’s definitely tire speed. Happens around 60mph in both 4th and 5th gear.

Wheels are 108mm center bore, so nut centric. I suppose I can loosen the lug nuts and retorque to make sure they’re seated properly.

Axle shafts are unlocked at the hubs so they’re not spinning.

I had my wife turn the wheel in the driveway yesterday while I looked at the steering links. There’s the slightest amount of play in the body side rod end on the panhard bar. I’m gonna try replacing the panhard bar rod ends and see if that fixes it. If that small amount of play can cause this much shaking then that’s pretty crazy. Also, if I can only expect about 13k street miles out of the rod ends that will be a pain in the ass.
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Old 01-29-2019, 04:53 AM   #115 (permalink)
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Check your brake rotors as well , could be warped or just a bad one from the get go .. And for the wheels have you balanced them by putting weights on the bead yet? Or just stick on. I recently had a similar shake on my wife's runner. And I ended up putting weights on the bead on the outside too if needed ,didn't want to since I just painted them . Tire beads ,stick on weight didn't work . I took the tires of and spun the wheel and one the wheels was 5.25 oz off. These are M/T clasic 2 copy from eagle.
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Old 01-29-2019, 06:26 AM   #116 (permalink)
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I don’t think it’s the rotors. Everything seems normal when braking and it’s only at specific speeds. Rotors also only have about 13k miles on them.

The balance I had done last week they put weights on the inner bead and adhesive weights on the inner surface.
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Old 01-29-2019, 07:07 AM   #117 (permalink)
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road force balance, if you can...

What's the preload on the kingpins bearings?
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Old 01-29-2019, 07:11 AM   #118 (permalink)
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They did road force during the last balance and said all the tires had below the threshold. 30 or 35 pounds for the road force I think is what they said. But they said all of them were good on the road force measurements. I was also lingering and watching them work/chatting with them during the process.

No idea what the preload is. Haven’t rebuilt the axle since it was assembled by Diamond.

Last edited by midcoma; 01-29-2019 at 08:01 AM.
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Old 01-29-2019, 08:54 AM   #119 (permalink)
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Get hubcentric spacers!
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Old 01-29-2019, 03:51 PM   #120 (permalink)
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Get hubcentric spacers!
Would a 1mm thick spacer hold up? I can see it crushing or cracking very easily and being useless.

Last edited by midcoma; 01-29-2019 at 03:54 PM.
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Old 01-29-2019, 04:22 PM   #121 (permalink)
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Would a 1mm thick spacer hold up? I can see it crushing or cracking very easily and being useless.
Oh Iím not sure. If itís very small it might not work. Is that all the room you have?
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Old 01-29-2019, 04:26 PM   #122 (permalink)
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Oh Iím not sure. If itís very small it might not work. Is that all the room you have?
Yes. The Toyota hub is 106mm and the wheel bore is 108mm.
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Old 01-29-2019, 04:42 PM   #123 (permalink)
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Yes. The Toyota hub is 106mm and the wheel bore is 108mm.


How snug does the wheel fit? If itís a Toyota wheel on a Toyota hub youíre probably good. I thought maybe your wheel had a larger bore.

Have you tried rotating front to rear? Tried looking at the tires while you have the vibration?
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Old 01-29-2019, 04:50 PM   #124 (permalink)
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How snug does the wheel fit? If itís a Toyota wheel on a Toyota hub youíre probably good. I thought maybe your wheel had a larger bore.

Have you tried rotating front to rear? Tried looking at the tires while you have the vibration?
It's an aftermarket wheel, but they fit pretty close. I haven't noticed any problems or had any concerns while mounting.

I haven't shifted front to rear yet.

Yes, the tires stick out enough that I can stick my head out the window and watch them while driving down the road. only for a couple seconds at a time obviously. But I can see them vibrating. Hard to really diagnose anything that way though.
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Old 01-29-2019, 05:00 PM   #125 (permalink)
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It's an aftermarket wheel, but they fit pretty close. I haven't noticed any problems or had any concerns while mounting.

I haven't shifted front to rear yet.

Yes, the tires stick out enough that I can stick my head out the window and watch them while driving down the road. only for a couple seconds at a time obviously. But I can see them vibrating. Hard to really diagnose anything that way though.


Hmmmmm weird. Alright. Well if you can see the tires bumping. May be time to swap them off for a set of known-good tires and wheels.
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