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Old 06-21-2019, 12:04 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Nice progress! Did you raise the motor at all when you built the new motor mounts and frame?
A small amount, yes.

got the frame plated inside and out tonight. What now
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Old 06-25-2019, 08:48 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Old 06-25-2019, 09:44 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Following over on TW as well, looking good! Will probibly use that core support setup when mine finally rips itself apart and fails on me.
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Old 07-02-2019, 10:58 PM   #54 (permalink)
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It’s official. I have no fawkin idea what I’m doing.

I think this is close to full bump. I don’t think it can come up much furtjerX especially once I have steering linkages in.


Lower link is about 2.5” from the frame when close to full compression with axle flat. Not sure if it’ll flex up and hit frame while articulating?

I’ve got the links set to 42” eye to eye. Both lowers and the upper.

This is where I’m looking at putting the upper link. It’s pretty damn close to the frame here. I could center it between the frame and the engine, and flex it out to check clearances. Or I could leave it a little close to the frame and see what hits. Better for it to be close to the frame rather than the engine. I can notch the frame out if needed.




With the upper link in that position, I have about 10” vertical separation. The upper link is angled in a few degrees.

Am I missing anything vital? Is there anything obviously terribly wrong? Should my upper link be a little shorter? Right now it’s 100% of the lowers, but also it is in a very easy to mount spot, on top of the pumpkin. I think I will try to tack in the upper link tomorrow if this is acceptable. And try to figure out the panhard after that. Should have my pitman arm soon then I can clamp in the steering box and see what’s up.
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Old 07-03-2019, 10:24 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Spent this evening redoing what I have done last couple days. It’s becoming a trend! Never setup a 3 link before to I’m doing a lot of tacking and cutting it off then tacking it in a different spot.

So I moved the axle back 5” so the steering will clear the frame.



I will notch the frame for the pitman arm and probably adjust the positions of it. The axle is close to full bump here but may actually be able to move up a little. I’ll for sure have to notch the frame where the pitman arm will swing around. Moved the link brackets back a couple inches and cut my links down to 40” eye to eye.


Didn’t have a chance tonight but I still need to get my upper link tacked to the housing.

Roughly like this
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Old 07-05-2019, 12:04 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Got a an upper link tacked in, and a panhard. But the upper link is too low and will interfere with the driveshaft quite a bit. So I’ll have to raise it up a bit. Also the front shaft and flange are getting into the frame..I’ll have to cut some frame out around the flange as well. Engine may have to come up to get any uptravel, because I want it to sit low. That’s as far as I got today.

I knew this upperclink bracket wouldn’t work. It was way too easy to make and fit too well.



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Old 07-08-2019, 07:29 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Progress is looking good.
An observation from the steering systems I've built:

The pitman arm MUST be (as close to) perpendicular to the axle tube as possible if you want full steering in each direction.

(edit: pitman should be straight/ perpendicular to axle when the front wheels are straight- that may make more sense.)
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Old 07-08-2019, 12:12 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Regarding your upper link length, I personally would make it shorter than your lowers to maintain your steering geometry as the suspension cycles. I think 80% of your lower length is about right, so since your lowers are 42" eye-to-eye, I'd shoot for around 34" eye-to-eye for your upper. It may also help with front drive shaft clearance issue. my .02
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Old 07-09-2019, 12:21 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Progress is looking good.
An observation from the steering systems I've built:

The pitman arm MUST be (as close to) perpendicular to the axle tube as possible if you want full steering in each direction.

(edit: pitman should be straight/ perpendicular to axle when the front wheels are straight- that may make more sense.)
I getcha. It wasnít straight only because I wasnít concerned with steering angle much there.
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Old 07-09-2019, 12:37 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Regarding your upper link length, I personally would make it shorter than your lowers to maintain your steering geometry as the suspension cycles. I think 80% of your lower length is about right, so since your lowers are 42" eye-to-eye, I'd shoot for around 34" eye-to-eye for your upper. It may also help with front drive shaft clearance issue. my .02
That’s a great idea. Thanks. I have changed things a little since then. My lowers are 40” eye to eye. I set upper link length(can always be changed if I have issues), to 40” also. I brought the upper link mount up a couple inches to clear the shaft, while also giving me about 10.5” vertical separation at the axle. It wouldn’t be too hard to make the upper link shorter too if that needs to happen.



Here’s some photos of where I’m at now. Axle is out to weld it up. Got my artefacts hi steer welded on. On the axle I welded on the lower shock mounts, and lower link mounts. As well as the upper link mount.

On the frame I’ve fully welded in link brackets, panhard mount, shock hoops, shock tower connecting tube, and new motor mounts(again). Here’s some photos.









I raised the engine up a bit to help clearance for the panhard and upper link bracket. The shock tower tube will be cut through the hood I guess.



Need to weld links tomorrow, and some some tabs/gussets. I would like to get the axle back in soon to verify the positioning of everything, and make a steering box mount. Wheelbase is sitting at 128” including moving the rear axle back 1.5-2”.
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Old 07-09-2019, 04:52 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Could you move the shock tower brace in front of throttle body above t belt? May drop to 1.25 diam and have it forward and another back by cowl. Then have a couple front to back connections . Just get your intake tube/filter in there to fit. You going to put some flanges to unbolt aswell ?
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Old 07-09-2019, 11:44 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Could you move the shock tower brace in front of throttle body above t belt? May drop to 1.25 diam and have it forward and another back by cowl. Then have a couple front to back connections . Just get your intake tube/filter in there to fit. You going to put some flanges to unbolt aswell ?
I could, but Iím worried the longer the tube is, the more itíll flex or potentially just bend. I donít mind cutting the hood a little.
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Old 07-09-2019, 05:10 PM   #63 (permalink)
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I could, but Iím worried the longer the tube is, the more itíll flex or potentially just bend. I donít mind cutting the hood a little.
Do you plan to jump it? If not, you won't have any problems with running it longer in front of the motor.
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Old 07-09-2019, 10:06 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Do you plan to jump it? If not, you won't have any problems with running it longer in front of the motor.
Absolutely not. Lol

Tonight I put in a bunch of work on my upper link bracket. It needed to be beefed up and fully welded and gusseted. Should be solid now. Iím hoping I donít have to add more reinforcement plates. If my welds holds up, itíll be good enough. Itís 1/2Ē thick on the sides. Didnít dress it up with holes as I wasnít feeling like plugging a bunch of holes in 3/16Ē and 1/4Ē plate. Hidden most of the time anyway.


Got the axle wrapped again.



Welded the links up, and painted them. Steel it seems like cool stuff. Weíll see if itís durable. Iím planning to do pretty much all my work in steel it on this project so I can weld on it without removing paint if I have to. it sounds durable. Also the finish on the silver is really cool! Canít wait to see how the front tube work looks in the silver. Brian your tube work turned out killers the steel it silver so Iím going to give it a shot.










Hoping tomorrow I can assemble it enough to roll it out of the garage to clean up in there. Itís a fucking mess. And I want to get the ride height figured out and exchange my springs if needed.
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:17 AM   #65 (permalink)
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You have a lot of faith in those welds on the diff. I would try to brace it to the tube somehow. At the very least I would be looking for cracks often.
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Old 07-10-2019, 12:02 PM   #66 (permalink)
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You have a lot of faith in those welds on the diff. I would try to brace it to the tube somehow. At the very least I would be looking for cracks often.
Was just going to suggest a bracket to the diff cover to reduce the load on the welds.
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Old 07-10-2019, 12:56 PM   #67 (permalink)
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I was considering something like that. Just not sure how to execute it while still being lo pro
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Old 07-10-2019, 11:04 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Set it on its own weight tonight to get some measurements on for springs. 250/350 is way too much. Sits about 4-5” too high. Maybe 150/250 or 200/300. I want it to sit low but it will be a little higher than this. Even if I bend my panhard to clear the pan , my upper link is dangerously close to my oil cooler thing on the block. Not sure if I can get a slimmer one or something.



This is lowered down on one spring.
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Old 07-11-2019, 08:30 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Fawk ya. Looks great.
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Old 07-11-2019, 09:38 AM   #70 (permalink)
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looks wicked
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Old 07-12-2019, 01:07 AM   #71 (permalink)
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Worked late tonight and early today so I didn’t get much done. Only started st 9ish. But began the steering box mount.

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Old 07-12-2019, 11:44 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Old 07-13-2019, 11:00 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Steering box is all mounted up.

Cut out the temporary piece and put in “permanent” piece.


Progress on engine cage and front bumer
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Last edited by rapier46; 07-13-2019 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 07-14-2019, 09:47 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Steering box is all mounted up.

Cut out the temporary piece and put in “permanent” piece.


Progress on engine cage and front bumer
Ended up redoing my motor mount on the drivers side to raise the engine up a bit on that side. It was sitting a little low.

Now I’m trying to figure out what to do for a transmission crossmember and skid plate for the trans. I’m kinda stumped.
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Old 07-15-2019, 06:32 AM   #75 (permalink)
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Good work!
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