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Old 02-13-2019, 11:46 PM   #926 (permalink)
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Well I can't imagine why it was leaking - half the bottom is rotten




Everything pictured is pretty much junk




Mfg'd in '98 - guess it had a good run...




Now I've just got to figure out if I want to build the new cell out of aluminum or stainless. I'd much rather weld stainless, but I have to go to the specialty metals place in the morning anyway, so I'll get a quote on each and see what the price difference is. Kind of burnt out on welding aluminum at the moment... Replacement bladder from FuelSafe would be around $900 it looks like, so I think I'll pass on that.
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Old 02-14-2019, 05:46 PM   #927 (permalink)
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Looks killer
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Old 02-14-2019, 06:04 PM   #928 (permalink)
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also with stainless you can get away with going thinner on the material, course it will want to warp around a bunch more
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Old 04-23-2019, 07:11 PM   #929 (permalink)
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Ok, so I finally had some time to build a new tank for this thing. Went with 3/16" aluminum for the tank, 1/4" stainless for the top plate, four Walbro pickups in-tank, and dual m8000 external pumps.

Cutting shit out:






Clamping and tacking:








Pickups and in-tank plumbing - 1 walbro in each corner (3 MP12's and 1 MP13). 3/8 ss hardline from the hydraulic shop. 3/8 fittings all meet up to -6 weld-in fitting on inside and outside of the tank. I thought the Walbros were kind of a pain in the ass, honestly, and may have gone with two hydramats if I did it over (although that would have cost triple). Walbros and 3/8" quick connect unions ordered through Liquid Iron, but no mention of using their submersible fuel line to sleeve anything, so I just put the unions directly on each Walbro. They weren't sealing that way at all, so I had to bandsaw them off and order new ones along with some submersible line to sleeve them with, then attach quick connects to the submersible line. Should be fine, but would have been good to know when I ordered them (although that was over a year ago and could have been lost in translation). Anyway, they should be fine:




Cutting/drilling top plate - just used my old 24-bolt Fuelsafe top plate as a template because it's nice and big, and I had it.






Used the new top plate I made as a template to finish the top aluminum piece of the tank:



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Old 04-23-2019, 07:30 PM   #930 (permalink)
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Mocked up the top plate with all bolts before welding the top of the cell in - ended up having to open up a few holes that were slightly off, but got it all dialed:




Final check of inside plumbing with submersible lines sleeving the Walbros, with a beer for scale. Also made/welded in tie-down points for the hardline:




Outside of tank all finish welded:




Final plumbing inside tank, and just held it all down with regular bailing wire:




-4 fitting for the return line welded in, and 1/2" vent (rollover valve) installed:




For ALL fittings and check valves outside the tank, I called G&J Aircraft, who told me I could email them what I'm building and they'd piece it together for me. Here's exactly what I sent them, and they shipped me everything I needed. My order ended up coming out to $260 with shipping, but fuck it - will definitely be ordering from them first in the future. Think they were cheaper than kartek or Jegs still, and both people I talked to seemed to know 100% what they were doing, which seems rare...




I went with the M8000 pumps because they were used from the factory for 22RE application, and should be really easy to get from any parts store in the future. The outlet fitting was a male 12mm x 1.00 and I couldn't find ANYWHERE that had anything at all that would adapt to that. Decided to just cut it off and TIG to some -6 fittings:








While I had the tig welder fired up, I welded in some stainless hardware to the top plate, for the fill plate to bolt to. Welded all the way around each to eliminate any leakage issues around bolts:

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Old 04-23-2019, 07:44 PM   #931 (permalink)
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Packed in all of the Alltech baffles I could fit. Already have them, may as well use them:




Final assembly! The piece to the right of the top plate in this pic is a sending unit I ordered from Summit a while back, so I can see what my fuel level is again finally:




Crossed my fingers and pressure tested the tank with soapy water and - no leaks from any welds or fittings I did, however have some tiny bubbles coming from the split in the lock washers of most of the top plate bolts though, so I pulled each one at a time and sealed all washer surfaces with Permatex aviation sealant. Gave it 24 hours and passed the next pressure test with no bubbles anywhere:




Old hold-down straps were like 1/8" to short for the new tank, so welded some extension pieces in:




Tank all strapped in:

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Old 04-23-2019, 07:57 PM   #932 (permalink)
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Time to make a mount for the pumps. I bought some thick aluminum tube that had an ID just slightly larger than the OD of the pumps. Cut the tube in half and crushed each in a vice until they fit in there almost perfectly. I wanted to make the mount out of aluminum with the idea that they'll act like heat sinks if the pump ever gets hot:




Cut down and punched some holes in the rubber strip that came with the pump to hopefully isolate some of the sound of the pumps running:




Pump mount welded in, and all plumbing done. The blue pieces are check valves, and I decided to move them away from the pumps instead of running a wizards staff of fittings off each one. I believe each pump has it's own check valve of sorts, but this'll guarantee that there's no backflow through whichever pump is not in use. The bolts I used on the pump mount are a little mismatched at the moment, but I'll pick up a longer bolt for the one on the right where it's not contacting the nylon in the nylock nut...






May look kind of exposed back there, but everything is right above the axle, so should be safe Truck fired right up and everything seems to be working great, although I will be adding hose clamps to everything later for redundancy, as well as putting chafe guards on any line that looks like it might rub at all...

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Old 04-24-2019, 08:15 PM   #933 (permalink)
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well that looks really clean
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Old 04-25-2019, 10:09 AM   #934 (permalink)
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Nice work on the tank. How will the sending unit work with all the baffles?
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Old 04-25-2019, 10:13 AM   #935 (permalink)
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Tank looks good but I would suggest going to a much larger vent valve. -8 won't even take a gas pump at half speed. I set my tank up with 1" vent and can now take dump cans full kill.
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Old 04-25-2019, 12:38 PM   #936 (permalink)
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Nice work on the tank. How will the sending unit work with all the baffles?
Probably one of those float in a tube self contained units
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Old 04-25-2019, 12:41 PM   #937 (permalink)
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Smile

Same place where my tank is mocked up. I dont know why thats not common place. Even the stock fuel neck can work. Brings the weight more central and not hanging off the back or side in the way.
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Old 04-25-2019, 03:36 PM   #938 (permalink)
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Nice work on the tank. How will the sending unit work with all the baffles?
It's all contained within a tube that sits in the tank - link on Summit, although I think I got it cheaper than that: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jzp-378-090-03


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Tank looks good but I would suggest going to a much larger vent valve. -8 won't even take a gas pump at half speed. I set my tank up with 1" vent and can now take dump cans full kill.
I think 1/2" is what every Toyota has stock for the filler vent Regardless, that's what I had before, and it was fine. We'll see how it works...


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Same place where my tank is mocked up. I dont know why thats not common place. Even the stock fuel neck can work. Brings the weight more central and not hanging off the back or side in the way.
Agreed
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Old 04-25-2019, 06:11 PM   #939 (permalink)
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If running stock filler neck then yeah itll work since the fill tube is inside a larger vent tube factory.
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Old 04-26-2019, 05:37 AM   #940 (permalink)
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Got it, wasn't aware of a sender of that type.
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Old 04-27-2019, 11:44 AM   #941 (permalink)
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If running stock filler neck then yeah itll work since the fill tube is inside a larger vent tube factory.
So what is the difference between a 'stock filler neck' and what I have?

The Toyota trucks/4Runner I've owned had a large fill neck with a 1.75" ID, and a 1/2" vent line that goes up to the gas cap for venting when filling. That's exactly what I'm running now. I also didn't change the fill hose or fill vent from what I ran before, and it was fine. Only difference now is the tank is aluminum instead of a bladder...
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Old 05-05-2019, 09:30 PM   #942 (permalink)
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Btw, just dug through all my parts twice, and canít find the charcoal canister anywhere. Anyone have an extra kicking around? Could shoot you a paypal. Was just looking on rock auto and not seeing it...

Putting emissions stuff back on - think thatís all Iím missing

edit: scrounged one up off of my old 4Runner chassis and got it mounted up last night. Sucks putting EGR, charcoal canister, and all of that back on, but will be sweet to get this thing on the road for the first time. Registration paid, just needs smog
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Old 06-22-2019, 01:02 PM   #943 (permalink)
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Well I've had a hell of a time smogging this thing - handful of shops look at it in the parking lot, and are not even willing to look at it closer, and just tell me they don't want to deal with it

ALL smog stuff is there, routed nice and clean, and finally found a shop that is willing to smog it once I get the factory air filter box installed back on. I threw a wanted ad up looking for factory style air filter box, and plastic tube/rubber boots that connect the air filter box over to the throttle body. Anyone have that stuff they'd be willing to sell?

Was hoping to find it all this weekend, preferably not too far from Bakersfield - if I could pick it up this weekend, I could keep my smog appointment for Monday morning and hopefully be done with this. I guess a lot's changed in the past decade since I smogged my old rig
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Old 06-23-2019, 08:59 AM   #944 (permalink)
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Old 09-11-2019, 10:55 PM   #945 (permalink)
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Finally passed smog - ready to crawl the mall again

What a pain in the ass trying to pass smog - had a thread about it here:
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyo...-diagnose.html


Anyway, got my registration sticker in the mail this week - ready to unleash this sucker on the city streets Shakedown run heading out to Ridgecrest this weekend to help pit for a buddy racing legends class in the U4 race out there.

'Bout fuckin' time - I've wanted to have this thing street legal for the past 8 years or so!
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Old 09-12-2019, 05:28 AM   #946 (permalink)
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That’s awesome! Street legal racer
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Old 09-12-2019, 08:22 AM   #947 (permalink)
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I dig it man
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Old 09-12-2019, 11:43 AM   #948 (permalink)
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Congrats on getting it back on the street. I know how frustrating and expensive it can be. We are planning some trips down that way this winter, Iíll send you a pm.
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Old 09-18-2019, 04:13 PM   #949 (permalink)
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Thatís awesome! Street legal racer
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Congrats on getting it back on the street. I know how frustrating and expensive it can be. We are planning some trips down that way this winter, Iíll send you a pm.
Sounds good!


Had the truck out in the desert in Ridgecrest all weekend, and drove it out there and back. 4.10s in the axles SUCK on the pavement, but as long as I'm not trying to climb a grade it actually does surprisingly well. Better than I thought it would, anyway... Truck performed flawlessly, and felt really good to get some seat time in it again. Tcases developed a pretty bad leak, but I've already pulled the cases apart and put them back together 8 times or so since I built this thing, so what's one more? Should be pretty dialed after that, and I can move into a bunch of little things that'll make it better to drive
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Old 09-18-2019, 04:33 PM   #950 (permalink)
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Hell yeah



Sounds good!


Had the truck out in the desert in Ridgecrest all weekend, and drove it out there and back. 4.10s in the axles SUCK on the pavement, but as long as I'm not trying to climb a grade it actually does surprisingly well. Better than I thought it would, anyway... Truck performed flawlessly, and felt really good to get some seat time in it again. Tcases developed a pretty bad leak, but I've already pulled the cases apart and put them back together 8 times or so since I built this thing, so what's one more? Should be pretty dialed after that, and I can move into a bunch of little things that'll make it better to drive
Awesome to see you out there. We waved as we passed. Would have been nice to chat in person, but it was a busy weekend.
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