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Old 11-17-2013, 07:06 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Thanks

have you noticed much issue not running the cold start injector or is it not too big of a hassle?
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:11 PM   #27 (permalink)
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havent ran it yet, ill let you know.
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Old 11-18-2013, 08:10 PM   #28 (permalink)
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What about tach signal for the 20r and 22r?

Leni
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Old 11-18-2013, 08:28 PM   #29 (permalink)
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What about tach signal for the 20r and 22r?

Leni
Pick up the tach signal from the Negative side of the coil/ignitor
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Old 11-19-2013, 08:39 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Pick up the tach signal from the Negative side of the coil/ignitor
Sweet, thanks. I'm swapping my 22re over to propane and have to figure out how to send a tach signal.

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Old 11-19-2013, 04:01 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Thanks for posting this. My 4runner is a hacked up wiring mess.
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Old 01-09-2014, 08:17 PM   #32 (permalink)
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thanks for all of the good info. ready to get into this and get some hotlaps in the buggy done! i can see the end in sight
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Old 01-09-2014, 08:23 PM   #33 (permalink)
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22R Mimimum wiring with GM ignition module:

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...ring-tech.html



As far as the colsd start injector earlier in the thread. My truck would not start for shit without it and that was in warm CA. I could only imagine the colder areas... Hope it works better for others....
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Old 01-10-2014, 06:16 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by hjpcummins View Post

Are you considering your charge light a voltage tach?
So I was thinking about this the other day and the short answer that comes to my mind would be no. Again, I haven't taken the time to try it out yet but maybe in the next couple of weeks.

Picked up an '87 22re with factory SR5 cluster so it has the voltmeter, voltage gauge, voltage tach whateverthefawkyoucallit in the cluster itself. It also has the Charge Light in the dash.

If hooking up a voltmeter for the cluster, the Sensor/signal wire and the Battery wires coming from the alternator are always going to be giving you a reference for the actual system voltage. Either tap into these or tie into the IG+ wire for the ignitor.

The Charge light circuit is really only closed when the system voltage is out of tolerance, either too low (under 13v??) or to high (over 15v??) so if you were to hook up a gauge to that circuit, it would show 0 volts open circuit while running and then register a reading only when the system is having a fault...as these are the only time that voltage is sent to the light bulb to turn it on.
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Old 01-10-2014, 09:59 AM   #35 (permalink)
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22R Mimimum wiring with GM ignition module:

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...ring-tech.html



As far as the colsd start injector earlier in the thread. My truck would not start for shit without it and that was in warm CA. I could only imagine the colder areas... Hope it works better for others....
thanks for posting your link don't know what I was doing that day, but missed that one!
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Old 01-10-2014, 11:29 AM   #36 (permalink)
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I am considering the Charge Light to be just that, it is just a light bulb in the factory dash. I've HEARD (take it for what it is worth) that the resistance provided by the bulb is required to help initiate the charging function. If a Voltmeter would also work in the same function, I have never personally tried as the bulb is simple enough for me.
When I had a 22r wired up in my jeep, there was never any charge light. Just a 12V sense light to the alternator, then a big 8 gauge wire to charge the battery running to the positive post.

The light thing you're thinking of could be the Delco 12SI or 10SI wiring, maybe?
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Old 01-10-2014, 07:38 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Wish I could remember all the wiring for my 3rz. I had that stuff memorized to a T when I did my swap. I have a lot of pics from the toy manuals at the dealership but they are to hard to make out. It's all loomed and taped up now. Hopefully everyone chimes in and fills in the gaps of the 100's of threads that we're never finished about wiring.
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Old 01-11-2014, 06:57 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 250f4life:23350658
Wish I could remember all the wiring for my 3rz. I had that stuff memorized to a T when I did my swap. I have a lot of pics from the toy manuals at the dealership but they are to hard to make out. It's all loomed and taped up now. Hopefully everyone chimes in and fills in the gaps of the 100's of threads that we're never finished about wiring.
Do you know if there are any differences between the 3rz and the 2rz from a wiring standpoint? Is it a correct assumption that the vss is not required for either across all years?
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Old 01-11-2014, 08:35 AM   #39 (permalink)
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The 2-3rz, 5vz, 3slow and 22re all share the same wiring characteristics.

The COR relay are slightly different but do the same thing

Thus far I haven't had an issue not running VSS
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Old 01-13-2014, 10:37 AM   #40 (permalink)
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The 2-3rz, 5vz, 3slow and 22re all share the same wiring characteristics.

The COR relay are slightly different but do the same thing

Thus far I haven't had an issue not running VSS
You'll throw a CEL for the VSS signal being absent and about the only side effect you'll notice is that you'll have some idle speed inconsistencies since the ECU uses the VSS for idle speed strategies. It will not keep the truck from running, or running well for that matter.
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Old 01-13-2014, 05:30 PM   #41 (permalink)
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good shit thanks guys
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:22 PM   #42 (permalink)
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better?


Attachment 1105970

Attachment 1105978

Attachment 1105986

anybody know how to get a .pdf file onto the internet? pirate wont host it as an attachment nor photobucket

much easier to see though when scanned as an adobe pdf file
this was very help full but i found that the cold start circuit was not correct for my app. i stripped an 85 efi harness and wired to the "pencil lead gray" diagram but rather than tag off the circuit between the temp sensor and the cold start injector i needed to make a loop from the sta port including the temp back to the stj port. this worked for my app.
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:40 PM   #43 (permalink)
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this was very help full but i found that the cold start circuit was not correct for my app. i stripped an 85 efi harness and wired to the "pencil lead gray" diagram but rather than tag off the circuit between the temp sensor and the cold start injector i needed to make a loop from the sta port including the temp back to the stj port. this worked for my app.
Just to be clear....I've got in the diagram that the cold start injector circuit gets 12volt power from the switch for the starter solenoid going TO the Cold Start Injector and the Cold Start Time Switch (temp sensor) and then that 12v power goes to STA on the ECU.

The Cold Start Injector as well as the Cold Start Time Switch (temp sensor) receive their GND from the ECU at STJ.

Also, the Cold Start Time Switch (temp sensor) is self grounding depending on the coolant temperature.


You are saying that this did not work for you and that you had to run a wire directly connecting the STJ and STA ports? Huh...
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Old 01-13-2014, 08:56 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 250f4life:23350658
Wish I could remember all the wiring for my 3rz. I had that stuff memorized to a T when I did my swap. I have a lot of pics from the toy manuals at the dealership but they are to hard to make out. It's all loomed and taped up now. Hopefully everyone chimes in and fills in the gaps of the 100's of threads that we're never finished about wiring.
Do you know if there are any differences between the 3rz and the 2rz from a wiring standpoint? Is it a correct assumption that the vss is not required for either across all years?
That's correct, from what I remember there isn't a diff between the 2 engines.
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Old 01-14-2014, 06:50 PM   #45 (permalink)
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i got power from the start switch tied into the sta side of the computer, from there sta/power runs through both the injector and temp switch back to the the stj port. i think things are happy from what i can tell. it has been cold and seems to work but i might be wrong as well. ruff chiltons diagram showed the same thing from what i can tell. let me know if you think this is incorrect but is working for me right now? although i have had some problems with parts failing just sitting. started with running truck and parts but the injector resistor just quit? don't recall dropping it or anything but it quit. there is not much info on that out there so took awhile for me to find out that the resistor should read 12v on the injector side of things. and for what is worth thanks for all of the work on this.
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Old 01-15-2014, 05:56 AM   #46 (permalink)
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i got power from the start switch tied into the sta side of the computer, from there sta/power runs through both the injector and temp switch back to the the stj port.
Yes, 12v pos from switch goes to the pos side of the injector, the temp switch, and STA on the ECU.

Ground comes from STJ on ECU and goes to ground side of injector and temp switch.

That is how I've got it in my diagram as well, i just don't have the injector resistor shown. It was 88 or 89 that Toyota went away from the external resistor for the injectors, i drew my schematic off the newer style.
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Old 02-11-2014, 05:25 PM   #47 (permalink)
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I don't know if this is linked in the massive 'more efficient than a 1uz swap' thread or not, but this guy Nigel Wade spent a huge amount of time putting this thing together. Glad I found it on the googler, going to work off of it to draw out a simple schematic.

saving to this computer and linking here so that I can find it in the future

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0WE...ptSTVqaTg/edit

everything you could ever want to know about damn near everything
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:11 AM   #48 (permalink)
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I started sorting out my wiring and got your color codes on a pdf.

22RE color schematics
https://db.tt/R6vLYdvC

Thanks again for the awesome info!
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Old 03-02-2014, 07:58 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Province I owe you a case of !
Got the truck fired tonight!
Thanks again for the diagrams
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Old 03-03-2014, 08:00 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Good to know it works.


yourself, thanks for hosting the .pdf
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