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Old 01-19-2014, 09:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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83 Pickup restoration

The Green Truck is dialed in as far as drivetrain and suspension goes, but the body has taken it's share of hits over the last few years. The goal of this thread is to document some rust repair and general bodywork.

I will start with the spot welds right below the bed rail. There are 2 panels spot welded together and the water gets trapped in there. The seam sealer that Toyota used just traps the moisture in. The result is the two panels rust inside and expand making the spot welds a deeper crater until they finally pop. I've fixed this twice by filling with body filler and they keep coming back. After doing a lot of research online, mostly on the H.A.M.B., the consensus is to cut it out, remove all rust and seal it up. That's what I did.

Here are the spot welds.
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Old 01-19-2014, 09:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Before I started any cutting I made a template of the profile. After cutting the board, I laid a piece of tape on the bedside and waxed it. Then I used a thin bead of filler between the board and tape to get it exact.
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Old 01-19-2014, 09:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I also made a sanding block that fit the profile.
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Old 01-19-2014, 09:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I made a cut about 1" back from the front and a cut 1/2" forward of the little bump in the back. Make your lateral cut from the inside, just below the inner panel. After that, drill out the spot welds and peel away. I used a Harbor freight 20# pressurized sand blaster. On sale, with online coupon, out the door, $42.
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Old 01-19-2014, 09:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Here's where you need to take your time. Using the lowest heat you can get away with, tack the two pieces back together. Move around and let things cool before you weld again. This is where the template comes into play. Also take your time grinding the welds. That heat can warp stuff too.
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Old 01-19-2014, 09:40 PM   #6 (permalink)
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On the two ends there is a small area I didn't cut out. There is a small cavity at the top where I flowed Rust Mort in until it flowed out. Let it sit for 24 hours and did it again. The Rust Mort converts the rust and seals it up.
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Old 01-19-2014, 09:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Now it's time to seal everything up. I use a 2 part primer from Nexa. I use 1" disposable paint brushes to get it into all the little depressions. Coat the inside and outside with 2 coats. Seal every place water could get in. Let it cure and sand the outside with 180 for adhesion.
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Old 01-19-2014, 09:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Although not necessary, I used carbon fiber for a little extra strength and to build the thickness of the outer panel I cut off.
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Old 01-19-2014, 09:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Now it's just standard bodywork. I use Upol fillers exclusively and the Dolphin glaze is an excellent product. Sand to 180 and prime.
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Old 01-20-2014, 06:49 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Nice work, now go out and smack it into some rocks!!
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Old 01-20-2014, 07:46 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Ready to do another lol
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:06 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Dam buddy!

I love your obsessive compulsive disorder. Look sweet and great job.
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:11 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Excellent attention to detail, nice job.
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Old 01-20-2014, 01:14 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Thanks for taking the time to post this. I'm in the process of prepping my Toyota for a new paint job and I love seeing how different body work is done.
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Old 01-20-2014, 01:43 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I cured the rust on my bed by running it over with a tractor and taking it to the scrap yard. Your job looks much cleaner!
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:30 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OOP'S View Post
Nice work, now go out and smack it into some rocks!!
I will. Take a look at the last pic and you'll see that this is not the first paint job, or will it be the last. See you at the Roundup.
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:32 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Ready to do another lol
I don't do complete side jobs, and you're too far away. The point of this thread is to show how to do it. You have the skills.

Last edited by Green Truck; 01-20-2014 at 10:53 PM.
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:49 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Dam buddy!

I love your obsessive compulsive disorder. Look sweet and great job.
Yea, I'm definitely OCD, but in my line of work it's either perfect or not good enough. The kid will be getting this truck someday and I want to keep it up. He wheeled the whole Rubicon last year and only crunched the right fender and a rear flare. I know your work and it's right up there. Looking forward to your new build and give me a shout if you need some help spraying.

Last edited by Green Truck; 01-20-2014 at 10:53 PM.
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:54 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Excellent attention to detail, nice job.
Some call it a disorder. Thanks
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:56 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Thanks for taking the time to post this. I'm in the process of prepping my Toyota for a new paint job and I love seeing how different body work is done.
No problem. I plan on taking this thread all the way to the end.
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Old 01-20-2014, 11:07 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I cured the rust on my bed by running it over with a tractor and taking it to the scrap yard. Your job looks much cleaner!
Sorry I didn't post this earlier. I know this isn't your typical Pirate thread but I know there are people out there that either want a clean truck or just want to get rid of some rust and rattle can it. Either way, I just want to keep as many going as possible.
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Old 01-20-2014, 11:57 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Tonight I'm going to take a step back and show some of the tools and abrasives that I'll be using.

The first is the air grinder. Great tool that is variable in speed unlike most angle grinders. Easy to control. This can be set up with a cut-off wheel, abrasive wheel, or flap disc. The cut-off wheel is much faster than your 3" die grinder wheel. The abrasive wheel, or "stone" as I call it is the best feature of this tool. It will knock down a weld faster than anything and not create a lot of heat. Definitely faster than a flap disc. The key is to watch the crown of the wheel and grind just the weld, not the substrate.

Made in Japan, yes I've had it for a while.
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Old 01-21-2014, 12:02 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Next is the die grinder. Not much special here but it's a 120 degree which is nice. The best mod to this tool is a regulator. Much more controllable. I run 80 to 120 discs and scotchbrite discs on it.
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Old 01-21-2014, 12:09 AM   #24 (permalink)
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The D/A. Dual action sander. 3 and 6 inch. Hook and loop paper. 80 to 3000 grit. These are great for fast surface prep and fast filler removal. The beauty of the velcro paper is that you can change back and forth grits without wasting anything.
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Old 01-21-2014, 12:22 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Straight line sander. This is the workhorse of making things "flat". When you lean down and look at that '57 Chevy and say "Damn that thing is straight" this is the tool that sets the stage. Mine is old school and takes sticky back paper. I pretty much stick with 120 on this one.
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