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Old 03-29-2004, 05:18 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by ozarkjeep
after some reading I think your guesses are spot on!

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Old 03-29-2004, 06:17 PM   #27 (permalink)
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ok , Now I am confused again.

if the igntiion module AND the coil are both wired in parrallell to the battery, how does the module open the primary circuit to fire the coil?

the only way it could possibly work is if the module is shorting the red and black wires together every time it fires the coil.

How can the wire handle that?
that WOULD explain the heat I guess.

I dont see how its working like that though.
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Old 03-30-2004, 12:25 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by ozarkjeep
ok , Now I am confused again.

if the igntiion module AND the coil are both wired in parrallell to the battery, how does the module open the primary circuit to fire the coil?

the only way it could possibly work is if the module is shorting the red and black wires together every time it fires the coil.

How can the wire handle that?
that WOULD explain the heat I guess.

I dont see how its working like that though.
basicly it's a set of points that never wear out
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Old 03-30-2004, 03:28 AM   #29 (permalink)
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I figured it out.

i just noticed the extra ground lug on the module, the mounting bolt. so it actually has 5 connectors, and not 4.

the terminal with the black wire going to the coil is opened, when signaled by the distributor, that causes the coil to do its thing.
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Old 07-25-2004, 05:52 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I tired the swap and Im having trouble.

My toyota coil and ignitor were still working most of the time, but when they got hot the spark would die.

I bought two GM ignitors and the GM coil?

I checked the GM coil the primary and secondary coils, .9 Ohms, 7K ohms.
The Signal wires from the distributer signal generator have continuity to the terminals on the new ignitor. My gounds check out as good. I grounded the bottom of the GM Ignitor.

Any Ideas Why it wont work for me?


here is how I wired it.

Bottom of 84 toyota ignitor, connects to C, B, Correction: Yellow wire is not ground , G, and W points of the GM ignitor.


GM Ignitor, Terminals W and G connect to the signal comming from the distributor. W is the white wire, G is the pinkish Red wire.
Terminal B has a 12v+ connection then goes to the + side of the GM coil. The C terminal goes to the - side of the GM coil. I will connect my Tac to the C terminal once I get it working. I removed the paint under the ignitor so the bottom toughes ground and both mounting holes are grounded.



Here is an over all view of my wiring.



Im done for today.

EDIT 08/05/04: Yellow Wire does not go to ground, it goes to a black wire that goes to a 3 terminal relay located in the kickpanel, then I think it goes to the dash gauges. The Yellow wire and tack wire (gray) are not need to start the engine, They both would connect to the (-) coil wire or terminal C on the GM unit.
I never got it to work...I found the signal gererator was failing when hot.
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Old 07-25-2004, 09:16 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Uhhhh 85 GM truck is NOT HEI it's ESC. That ig system had a brain under the dash. Should you use a HEI from say a 79?
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Old 07-25-2004, 09:24 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Did the thought ever occur to anyone to pull the coil out of the older celica or cressida??? They use the same ignitor as the trucks. Just check to see if it is carbed or fuel injected.
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Old 07-26-2004, 12:25 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obex26
Did the thought ever occur to anyone to pull the coil out of the older celica or cressida??? They use the same ignitor as the trucks. Just check to see if it is carbed or fuel injected.
What year Celica or Cressida? Are they using the same ignitor and coil? I have seen Tercel with the same coil, but not ignitor.
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Old 07-26-2004, 07:45 AM   #34 (permalink)
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that wiring looks like a custom job
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Old 07-26-2004, 12:55 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grim Reaper
Uhhhh 85 GM truck is NOT HEI it's ESC. That ig system had a brain under the dash. Should you use a HEI from say a 79?
What is ESC?
HEI?

Its a 5 terminal ignitor, same as the toyota one, It worked for other guys but dosent work for me?

I need to get my truck driving, so I can have time to finish my trail rig....
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Old 07-26-2004, 12:59 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarmirToy
that wiring looks like a custom job
I modified a powerwheels jeep wiring harnes to work for my needs.

build what ya got.
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Old 07-26-2004, 02:32 PM   #37 (permalink)
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I don't see the resisitor I've seen in the other pics of this mod.

see yellow wire in this pic
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Last edited by SeaBass44; 07-26-2004 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 07-26-2004, 02:52 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Old 07-26-2004, 02:59 PM   #39 (permalink)
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sorry I'm having trouble getting the pic big enough to see and small enough to upload, Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr, maybe page 1 has a pic?
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Old 07-26-2004, 03:13 PM   #40 (permalink)
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page 1 has a pic
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Old 07-27-2004, 02:00 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaBass44
I don't see the resisitor I've seen in the other pics of this mod.

see yellow wire in this pic
In the first post he said he didnt use a resistor like you did.

The yellow wire I have going to ground not to terminal C, but in that picture it goes to the Negative terminal of the coil and to ground. I dont think that is correct. The toyota ignitor does not have the negative terminal of the coi going to ground. only the ignitor sould be grounded not the coil?

A resistor could tune the RL circuit, If its not tuned the primary and secondary coils will not be tuned at the right frequency resulting in litte to no spark. But the resistor going to ground... I dont think that will tune it?

I picked up a 1k ohm 25Watt varable resistor from work, Ill give that a try on terminal C, from the terminal to ground.
With out a scope at home, If it works, Ill try the resistor at different resistances and see if there is an optimal setting, then Ill buy a ceramic power resistor with that resistance. The ceramic resistor would be hermetic (water proof) and would have a very high operating temp range.
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Old 07-27-2004, 02:11 PM   #42 (permalink)
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from my own testing, it takes about .3 volts of differential to trigger the module.

first I would stick a meter on your distributor signal wire, and see what its reading, if it doesnt have suffecient "swing" to trigger the module, you then use the resistor, its basically a pullup resistor.
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Old 07-27-2004, 02:34 PM   #43 (permalink)
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My buddies 80 truck, Previa mini van and MR2 all used the same ignitor...I'm sure many other Toys did too.
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Old 07-27-2004, 03:38 PM   #44 (permalink)
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just taking a shot at the problem & quick look didn't see the resistor, never went back & read the 1st page about the GM coil try it, either way report back. I have a spare toy coil/igniter I'm going to mount right next to the one in use as a spare, mounte and ready to go should it be neded
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Old 08-05-2004, 12:26 PM   #45 (permalink)
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The Yellow wire does not go to ground, It connects to a black wire that goes to a relay located in the kick pannel, then goes to the dash panel. The yellow wire is not needed nor is the tack wire for starting the engine.
I never got the GM stuff to sucessfully work.

I found my Signal generator, (hall effect sensor) would go to an open circuit when my motor heated up. I could not test the Signal comming out of the Sensor, but I did notice the resistance whent from 212Ohms to 1Meg Ohms when the engine stalled. 1meg ohms being an open circuit... so Im gonna buy a new sensor right now at luch.

I dont know why the GM stuff never wroked on my truck but I should be fixed now so Im done trying the GM parts.
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Old 08-05-2004, 01:28 PM   #46 (permalink)
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whatever works for you, I'll have to try this someday.
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Old 11-24-2004, 08:47 PM   #47 (permalink)
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I tried this today, and cant get it to work. I didnt use a resistor though. What size resistor do you need? I wired it like the pic seabass has above. I used a 4 pin module, and a MSD high vibration coil. My truck did run, but not for long before I tried this, now it doesnt even work when I hooked my toy module back up. I had the MSD coil hooked into the toy module before. Maybe the coil went bad? Any way to test a coil?

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Old 11-25-2004, 04:45 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BennyBoy
What a great idea,I wish I had thought of
that...Oh wait,I did,some years back on
the off-road.com site.The GM ignitors dont fail if you use a heatsink.I've had one in my 68 Volvo for 11 years.
The best coil to use is the Accel Super Coil
model 140008.This coil has the correct
input resistance of .5 ohms.The GM ignitor was designed for this load.Also if
the Accel coil is use,you can safely gap
your plugs at .045.I run mine at .040 to
go easy on the rest of the ignition system.

Benjamin posted this hot tip some years back on OR.com and when my 1985 22R ignitor took a poop, I was stranded, luckily not far from home and my good friend Toddly. He drove me to the only place that has them (not found at Autozone, etc) Toyota dealer. It was about $300. I took the old and with Benjamin's photo inserted and soldered a 1985 Chevy truck ignitor purchased from Autozone for $14.99. I had to cut the tabs off and insulate the ignitor with foam tape inside the stock ignitor box, but after about 2 hours, I had it working and tested it in my truck for about a week. I then replaced it with my new one and put the spare behind my seat.
Gnarls.
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Old 03-09-2007, 12:38 PM   #49 (permalink)
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ttt for good thread, I fould with google search helping out a guy that emailed me
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Old 07-29-2007, 04:04 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by INFAMOUSBUTCHER View Post
like seabass did but instead of using a 1000 ohms resistor and the stock coil
How does the 1000 ohm resistor and stock coil work?

Last edited by 854X4; 07-29-2007 at 09:48 AM.
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