complete bypass of toy ignitor and coil for 30$ - Page 3 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 07-29-2007, 08:09 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Ok I see a lot of back and forth of yes and no, it did and it didn't.
Can someone that has done this and has it working post up the corect way to wire the gm ignitor.
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Old 11-14-2007, 04:04 PM   #52 (permalink)
 
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hey guys i just hooked this system up today and here is what happened. i used the GM module specified in the first post as well as the ignition coil specified in the first post (NOTE: the coil was a 12 volt EXTERNALLY resisted coil and im not using a resistor) we hooked it all up and it fired up and ran great...for 5 mins, then 100 ft down the road, while shifting, it died and i had to use sarter fluid to get it running again and it wouldnt idle after that. anyways, i checked the pickup in the distributor and it was 6-15 ohms past the 180 spec so i replaced it.

the new GP sorenson pickup's connector was switched backwards from mine and after trying everything we finally swapped the module terminal's wires and it worked, HOWEVER during all this we noted that the truck WOULD NOT start unless the coil wire going into the coil was held above it, when put in the coil it would die. after swapping the module wires and thus correcting the pickup error there was a hotter (larger/brighter) spark but it still wont start if the coil wire is in the coil. i drove it home it drove nice and idled nice but starting it can be a bit of a pain. my question is:

1) should i swap the externally resisted coil for an internally resisted coil

AND

2) do ignition coils have a "break in" period, (ive never heard of this but who knows)

thanks
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Old 11-14-2007, 06:06 PM   #53 (permalink)
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just helped my buddy do this conversion tonight on his 82 22r. Everything seems to work except for the fact that his truck is really hard to start. I noticed that if i pull the coil wire out of the top of the coil about 3/4 of and inch to let the spark jump to the coil wire, his truck will start up immediatly. then when i put the wire back in it runs great until he shuts it off. The only thing that i know is that maybe it is because he has no resistor on the coil and it calls for an external ballast resistor. could that be the problem?
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Old 11-14-2007, 06:43 PM   #54 (permalink)
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haha, can believe you actually asked if an ignition coil has a break in period. what an idiot. you must have ADD or some crap.
j/k. sorry, didnt see your post before i posted question about coil wire.
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Old 11-14-2007, 09:03 PM   #55 (permalink)
 
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HAHA EVAN "SNATCH IT" ENGLAND, ya btw guys, it went back and did exactly what it was doing before. ill be driving and usually on the shift it will doe and i have to hold the gas down a bit to keep the revs up, really difficult to drive like that in a manual. any thoughts on what it could be now that ive replaced the ignition module/coil 3 times, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and pickup unit??? when it does it ill rev it to approx 3k and hold and its a consistent pop...pop....pop from the tail pipe. can fuel troubles be that noticeable and/or change that quickly. also when trying to start it while its doing this and while holding the revs as aforementioned it smells very rich, maybe too much gas causing residual post-cylinder burning???? but what would cause it to just dump fuel. hey evan maybe that why it feels a lil faster when its being stupid, i may be onto something.
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Old 11-19-2007, 12:45 AM   #56 (permalink)
 
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good news, i found out the problem, the wires to the coil were hooked up in reverse. put them on right and it started right up, been running perfect ever since and starts up great. only died once but i think that was was somthing else, trust me ive tried to make it die a few times and it wont, so i think my problem is fixed for now. haha, 4digchevy, next time remember, positive is the PLUS sign i.e. -----> +
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Old 02-23-2008, 09:03 PM   #57 (permalink)
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interesting..
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Old 03-18-2008, 09:54 AM   #58 (permalink)
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OK can some one clear this up for me? Is the first post correct or do you need a resi. I can't get it to work on my 83. I'm in the middle of a cab swap and it would not fire after I set the other cab on it. I thought this would be an easy way to get rid of some wires always a good thing. Maybe its some thing else but it wouldn't work even when I ran a wire stright from the batt.

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Old 06-14-2008, 01:55 PM   #59 (permalink)
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20r

would this wiring setup work for the 20r out of a 1980?
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Old 06-14-2008, 02:34 PM   #60 (permalink)
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would this wiring setup work for the 20r out of a 1980?
yes
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Old 06-14-2008, 04:18 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Well nothing concrete on this yet. I had a post over in the Ftoy section about ignition stuff on a 22R and Cary from GotPropane chimed in and said he ran the GM stuff. I posted back up and asked about parts and resistors and have yet to hear back. Sounds like a cheap, viable solution especially if you are like me and have nothing to start with.
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Old 06-14-2008, 04:48 PM   #62 (permalink)
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I have a 22r on pane. I run the stock disty, the GM igniter and the GM coil. Wired it up, and it works fine.

Nothing else fancy.
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Old 06-14-2008, 05:15 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Post up what stuff your using....part numbers, resistors, etc.
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Old 09-22-2008, 08:28 PM   #64 (permalink)
 
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I had my spark unit go out on my 84 22r and didn't want to plunk $300 on the truck since it was basic simple transportation. I performed the mod on the truck as outlined on the first page with the exception of the coil. I used the stock toyota coil since only the igniter went out. The silicon diode chip broke and the bond wire was hanging in place, so periodically the truck would start and then shut off. This was the first time the truck left me stranded. With some blade connectors and a picture from this thread I wired the existing harness to the $30 GM igniter. It has worked for 6 months. Great mod. Thought someone else might find this interesting.
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Old 09-23-2008, 09:47 AM   #65 (permalink)
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GM Ignition

Dang, this thread just never dies....I built the GM/Accel ignition. Installed it on an '85 22R mounted next to the Toyota/GM ignition I built several years ago. (now used as a backup). I used the connector from the master cyl low fluid wire. (same as the distrib wire connector) so I can unplug the new one and plug in the old system with one connector and the coil wire. I've not had to plug the Toyota/GM ign back in. The GM/Accel set works amazingly well... I've run the Niagara Rim and the Eagle Peak with the new ign without a hiccup....Eventually I'll pull the Toyota/Gm and put it in my elec parts box...BTW...the Accel spark makes the toyota coil's spark seem anemic...
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Old 09-23-2008, 10:25 AM   #66 (permalink)
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olfart, I have the accel/gm set up same as you. It ran great when I first set it up. Then one day when I turned the key to accessory it seemed like the bendix on the starter was throwing out and not spinning. It really has me confused, I left the factory set up right beside it and switched it back over and the "binding" went away. I cant for the life of me figure out whats enaging, but have you or any others had this happen?
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Old 09-23-2008, 12:56 PM   #67 (permalink)
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AA User elect glitch

Have you done any work on the elect system just before this happened?
First guess is you're backfeeding the starter from the acc circuit. curious if it is the GM/Accel unit at fault that it waited so long to appear.

Make sure the positive to the accel coil is connected to a switched 12v and not the acc circuit....the acc circuit is supposed to be dead when the ign switch is in the start position and the starter engaged. The Accel coil should be connected to the switched positive circuit and not to the acc circuit....

That said, I've seen inadequate grounding cause all kinds of gremlins too.

when you discover what the problem is let me know in case I run into the same thing with this setup....
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Old 09-23-2008, 01:17 PM   #68 (permalink)
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try this

use the positive feed on the toyota coil...if you unplug it from the coil, if I remember right, it has three blade connectors. Identify the 12v positive and slide one of your female connectors on and run the line to the positive side of the accel coil....hook the GM/Accel unit back up and try again...if that solves it then it is your 12v Accel feed that was the problem....
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Old 10-01-2008, 02:50 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Thank you for the reply, I did infact wire the accel into the factory plugs using female blades. Did the whole unplug the stock and slide in the accel connectors effectively replacing stock with accel withen the factory harness.
I just got back in town so I will try what you said and report back asap.
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Old 12-27-2008, 11:08 AM   #70 (permalink)
 
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I know you guys have discussed and discussed this one to death, but my 1983 SR5 igniter died on me. I pulled the coil and igniter and switched out to a GMC ignition module and coil. It starts fine but a discussed in the the rest to the thread dies when I go about 300 ft. I sounds like the timing is out of wack. I got it started and checked timing, it's ok. I was worried that I somehow lost the hyd tensioner on the chain, but after oulling the valve cover and looking at the marks they lined up too. I guess my question is does this really work? WHat do you do with the yellow wire that has the connector that feeds the emission computer and tachometer. The wiring diagram in the Chiltons(worthless manual always get a Haynes) doesn't show a fifth wire. MOst tachs hook to negative on the coil as does the extra capped plug connector. which I hook up to when I connect my diagnostic tach. I have heard several people talk about a resistor in the circuit, but the one in the pictur looks like it's connected to the negative wire leading to the coil. Please help me out on this I would prefer not to back to the Toyota igniter, don't get me wrong it's worked for over 25 years and 200,000 miles with out a hickup but the cost is expensive to take. If you don't want to talk on the board a private message would do me fine thanks guys.
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Old 12-27-2008, 12:02 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Try reversing to two wires that go into dist, Mine started but sounded really weak,switched wires and all is Good. Worth a try
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Old 12-27-2008, 01:50 PM   #72 (permalink)
 
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I reversed the wires off of the distributor and it ran worse, would not come above Idle. Switched it back ran fine for about two minutes then just died. This is what happened when I get into it and move down the drive way. There is no way this thing is overheating. I's using a hunk of copper as a heat sink and I used dielectric grease under the module for good heat transfer. My unit is wired up pretty much like the pictures in the post with exception of the yellow wire and resistor which I'm still not sure of. Does not having this unit hooked up cause a problem with the Emission computer? Is it sending something back down the line to kill the ignition circuit?
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Old 12-27-2008, 02:55 PM   #73 (permalink)
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i bypassed the igniter on my celica 20r..just used a stock corolla 1600 points and condenser/coil. took 10 mins and it was done .this was a road side fix with what we had on hand and it worked...later switched to msd
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Old 12-27-2008, 09:59 PM   #74 (permalink)
 
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Yeah I did the same thing on my 1977 toyota pickup. I need to know what the other guys who have got this GM switch to work, what the did to make it work. Some say a resistor is added, where? What happens to the yellow wire coming from the igniter. The wiring diagram shows a black wire leading to the emissions computer and tach what about those connections? Why is she dying after 100ft or three minutes of running?
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Old 12-29-2008, 09:57 AM   #75 (permalink)
 
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Come on guys I know some of you have got this thing to work, please tell me what I'm doing wrong so I can get this truck running.
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