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Old 12-29-2008, 10:34 AM   #76 (permalink)
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resistor

the 1000 ohm resistor is needed if you are using the toyota coil...is the HEI unit attached to a good heat sink? Do you have good solid grounds to the HEI unit and the coil...are you receiving a good pulse from the distributor...I suspect you don't have a good heatsink/ground for the HEI unit....
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Old 12-29-2008, 01:02 PM   #77 (permalink)
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OK I'll check the ground to be sure. Here is what I found out when investigating the yellow wire. I removed the back cover of the Nippon Denso Igniter module and found out several things. The unit is grounded through the metal case, not the negative hook ups. The yellow wire running to Tach and emissions computer is connected to the black wires after being bridged with a 102 Ohm resistor (brown 1+, black 0+, red 2+ equals 102ohms with gold band indicating +- 5% tolerance). To ensure that I was correct i cut one of the ends of the resistor and checked for continuity only picked up resistance when touching black wire connection. The red and white wires go throught the solid state circuit and triggers the coil. The brown wires (two wires crimped together and soldered) is the feed for power to both coil and igniter. Black wires (two crimped and soldered) go to coil and the connection thats capped (ignition check connection). So I should have a resistor connected a ignition module terminal "C" and the connected to yellow wire which turns into a black wire on the wiring harness. Does this sound correct?
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Old 12-29-2008, 07:50 PM   #78 (permalink)
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An update from my last post the resistor was in fact a 1K Ohm. I soldered a new resistor on the C terminal of the module and connected it to the yellow wire. A closer inspection of the Coil shows it needing a external resistor. Made a trip to Scrapa (NAPA) an picked up a external resistor. Hooked it all up and the tach works, but the engine is still stalling. In fact I think it's gotten worse. I checked the grounds with my fluke meter on continuity and everything is good to go on the grounds. What is causing this thing not to work. People I would love to finish this post with an exact set of instruction on how to make the toyota to GM swap work. SOme of you have made this thing work, please help, thanks.
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Old 12-30-2008, 06:55 PM   #79 (permalink)
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http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,85514.0.html

I did a write up a while ago on it on another forum for a guy who wanted to do the swap. Its on my 22r pane powered samurai.
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Old 12-30-2008, 11:46 PM   #80 (permalink)
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Hey Msmoke, I originally used your instruction to put my ignition together. I just can't understand why this thing quits dying on me.
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Old 12-31-2008, 12:53 PM   #81 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjvforme View Post
Hey Msmoke, I originally used your instruction to put my ignition together. I just can't understand why this thing quits dying on me.
I hooked mine up the exact way you see it and it never had a issue. But i do not run a computer. That is the only difference i see, other then you added a resistor.

So it would make sense to me you have another problem, or since you only have half the computer hooked up, it is effecting the way the engine runs. Check to see what the emissions computer does/controls, and if it is causing the problem.

Oh and my old tach had 1 wire that went to the negative side of the coil, and worked fine before it broke, i just never replaced it.
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Old 12-31-2008, 01:42 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msmoke View Post
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,85514.0.html

I did a write up a while ago on it on another forum for a guy who wanted to do the swap. Its on my 22r pane powered samurai.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I was asked to do a write up on this. So here it is in as much detail as i can go into without tearing my harness apart and redoing it. Some of you might ask why you want to replace a fairly reliable system with GM parts, no real benefit that i know of, other then cost and availability of parts. All the parts are stocked at my local auto parts store, and i can replace the ignition module and coil for 30$, where the original ignitor on the Toyota ignition costs over 250$ and is not stocked at any parts stores to my knowledge. I did this on a 22r engine, i would not see why it would not work on a 22re, but i have not tested it myself. It will work on a 20r, or any carbed toyota engine for sure.

Parts Required:
Ignition Module from a 1979 GM truck with a 350 CI engine Autozone P/N DR100
Coil from a 1972 Chevrolet k10 4wd truck with a 350 CI engine Autozone P/N C819
Optionally you can get or build a heat sink to mount the ignition module to. It is not needed but it wouldn't hurt.

Special Tools Required:
Soldering Iron and resin core solder
Misc. wire connectors
Wire Crimping Pliers
Test Light

Important to know:
You will find 4 connections on the ignition module. Being marked B, C, G, W.

B = +12v Power
C = Ground to Coil
W = Signal wire from distributor
G = Signal wire from distributor


Installation:
First off, start by removing the toyota ignition and coil, it is one unit on the toyota. It will have 3 wires running into it from the harness, 2 from the distributor and 1 spark plug wire.

Then find a place to mount your ignition module. Either inside the cab or in the engine bay. Drill your holes and mount your ignition module down. You will notice the holes are lined with steel for the mounting, this is the ground for you module. I attached a wire from one of the mounting bolts, to a clean body ground to insure proper grounding of the module.

Secondly, find a place to mount your new round coil. This will need to be somewhat close to the distributor as it has to have a spark plug wire attaching it to the coil.

After both have been mounted the job is darn near done, here comes the easy part, wiring everything up.

You will find 4 connections on the ignition module. Being marked B, C, G, W.

B = +12v Power
C = Ground to Coil
W = Signal wire from distributor
G = Signal wire from distributor


First off, find yourself +12v keyed power. You can use a test light and use the original wiring, or hook in anywhere that has keyed power, if running it off another circuit other then the original ignition circuit make sure it is fused. 99% of everyone will use there original +12v power wire that ran to the coil (samurai) or ignitor (toy) because the factory ignition fuse in the fuse box will be functional.

Keyed power runs to the B terminal on the ignition module. I used a connector to attach it to the terminal. Off of this terminal you will need to run a second wire, which will be a hot +12v power wire that runs to the + side of the coil.

C terminal is a ground wire for your coil, so run a wire from C terminal to the - side of your coil.

Now you have G and W left to wire on the ignition module. Take a look at your distributor, you have 2 wires running off of it. You need to attach one to the G terminal and one to the W terminal. I have found it to be indifferent as to which goes where on my system.

Quick System rundown for troubleshooting:

When you hit the key, you apply 12v power to the ignition module at terminal B, and to the coil, which then goes back to the ignition module on terminal C. The coil begins to energize waiting for a ground to make it discharge. When you crank the engine, the magnetic pickup will signal the ignition module through the wires attached to terminals W & G to create a ground on post C, which then grounds the coil and makes it discharge through the spark plug wire and back into the distributor cap.

I said that much because it is quite possible that the magnetic pick up in the distributor is not set properly. This is referred to as air gap, and must be set with a feeler gauge. It is very easy to set, but if it is off you will never get spark. Other troubleshooting procedures can be found in the factory service manual with specs on resistance and such for the Distributor.
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Old 01-01-2009, 05:08 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Ok I used these exact instructions to install and wire the ignition circuit. I even got the same year parts that he recommended. THe only differnce was I bought them from NAPA. I did get a external resistor required coil, and I bought the resistor and wired it before the positive side of the coil. WHich bring up a question buy doing this should the ignition module be wired before the resistor?
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Old 01-02-2009, 05:30 PM   #84 (permalink)
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I think I got this thing finally licked. I removed the GM coil and installed the Toyota coil and she works fine. No stopping after one hundred feet or just quiting when sitting there idling. I have no clue why it's working with the Toyota coil but I'm not complaining. I'm going to run it for awhile before I give the the final yes it's running and completed.
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Old 01-02-2009, 06:15 PM   #85 (permalink)
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I see many of you mention you are using dielectric grease. That will not work correctly. What you need is thermal grease, dielectric grease is not designed to transfer heat. Go to a computer store and get some thermal grease or it may be called thermal compound.

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Old 01-19-2009, 11:14 AM   #86 (permalink)
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The tube of compound that I picked up from NAPA says right on the back it's ment for Ignition modules.

I ran the truck into town a couple of days back, 34 miles, and she is running fine with the Toyota coil. SO I guess this means I'm good to go.
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Old 04-05-2010, 06:16 PM   #87 (permalink)
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bringing up an old thread, but im doing this and having problems. when i hook it up as shown in post 1 I get no spark. just bought all brand new parts, have good power, maybe the air gap? i have been searching but cant find a thread on how to set it. maybe I am using the wrong terms? any ideas?

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Old 05-21-2010, 01:34 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by INFAMOUSBUTCHER View Post
instead of paying for a used ignitor and coil that will probably go out just like the one i had or paying 300$ for a new one i opted for the "easy" gm conversion . like seabass did but instead of using a 1000 ohms resistor and the stock coil i bought a coil for a 1973 chevy truck 350 v8 (or any round coil with negative/positive terminals on it) (11.99 autozone) and a "ignition module" from a 1985 chevy k10 350 v8 truck (14.99 autozone) .

your igntion hot wire (or any hot wire if you wanna have a toggle switch hidden some where) goes to the b terminal on the gm ign modu then from term b run a wire to the positive term on the gm coil. then run a wire from the c term on the gm ign mod to the negative term on the gm coil. then the g and w term on the ign mod go to the two wires coming out of the distributor cap. just use trial and error hooking them up, if you hook em wrong it will idle real high and fast rough, if you hook em up right itll run perfect. theres only two wires so its 50/50 not too hard.

soddering would be best on all the new connections along with grease, also on the bottom side of the gm ignition module is metal that is your ground to bolt it or wire that to your old ground on the fender .

anymore questions feel free to pm me


this would be the correct was to wire my 350 sbc then right?????
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Old 05-21-2010, 06:54 PM   #89 (permalink)
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I love having the GM module. Easy to keep a spare, cheap too! I send a lot of people to the board for this mod.
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Old 10-09-2010, 07:40 PM   #90 (permalink)
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I hate to beat a dead horse but I have to bring this one back up.
I have read the entire post but Im puzzled.
I have completed the swap as mentioned above. I did not use a resistor though. I have the GM coil and Module. when I hook everything up I dont get any spark. now before I did the swap I didnt have any spark either (just bought the truck,not running with no spark) I didnt want to invest in the toyota coil and module so I decided to do this swap to save some cash.
so no spark with the correct setup. however if I connect my test light to the (+) positive side of the coil and probe the signaling wires going to the dist. I get spark. I fooled with this thing all day today and cannot come to a conculsion what Im doing wrong. should I check all grounds? why is the coil not putting anything out unless I force power to the signaling wires?
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Old 10-09-2010, 07:48 PM   #91 (permalink)
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I hate to beat a dead horse but I have to bring this one back up.
I have read the entire post but Im puzzled.
I have completed the swap as mentioned above. I did not use a resistor though. I have the GM coil and Module. when I hook everything up I dont get any spark. now before I did the swap I didnt have any spark either (just bought the truck,not running with no spark) I didnt want to invest in the toyota coil and module so I decided to do this swap to save some cash.
so no spark with the correct setup. however if I connect my test light to the (+) positive side of the coil and probe the signaling wires going to the dist. I get spark. I fooled with this thing all day today and cannot come to a conculsion what Im doing wrong. should I check all grounds? why is the coil not putting anything out unless I force power to the signaling wires?
I'd double check your grounds and everything. Have you tried switching the distributor signal wires around? When I did the swap I had the signal wires mixed up and it wouldnt run worth a damn.
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Old 10-09-2010, 07:52 PM   #92 (permalink)
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yeah I tried swiching the terminals back and forth and still nothing. with everything hooked up the right way according to the Zuwhare post when I test both (+) and (-) on my coil I have power and then like I said if I hook up the test light to (+)positive and probe the signal wires to the dist. it sparks like a mofo. (with dist. cap off) Im not a electrical guy so this is new to me.
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Old 10-10-2010, 06:22 PM   #93 (permalink)
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what about if the pickup coil is bad,since it acts as a complete loop system if its sinding power to the dist. and its not taking it. does that make any sense?
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Old 02-08-2011, 06:21 PM   #94 (permalink)
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Hey guys this is my first post here, I found this and it was very helpful so I thought I'd post a pic of my setup, ICM from an 85 Chevy 1500 350 with the stock Toyota coil and it works perfect

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Old 02-08-2011, 09:34 PM   #95 (permalink)
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Hey guys this is my first post here, I found this and it was very helpful so I thought I'd post a pic of my setup, ICM from an 85 Chevy 1500 350 with the stock Toyota coil and it works perfect
Welcome to Pirate!

Pretty nifty swap for under $30!
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Old 03-10-2011, 04:28 PM   #96 (permalink)
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So has anyone tried to do this with a 22re?

A
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Old 03-30-2011, 08:53 PM   #97 (permalink)
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Thought I'd post it up that I tried this and it didn't work. Tried just about everything with the stock gm stuff and had many different problems from the timing retarding instead of advancing to missing under load to power loss at 2700rpm.finally got an ignitor for $20.This is a great swap I just think it doesn't work 100% of the time for some unknown reason.
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Old 03-30-2011, 10:23 PM   #98 (permalink)
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So has anyone tried to do this with a 22re?

A
IIRC, it only works on the 22R.
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Old 04-06-2011, 02:12 PM   #99 (permalink)
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Will swapping over to the GM Ignition provide a hotter spark compared to the factory 22R ignition? I was curious as to what the benefits of this upgrade was other than being cheap.
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Old 04-06-2011, 02:25 PM   #100 (permalink)
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Will swapping over to the GM Ignition provide a hotter spark compared to the factory 22R ignition? I was curious as to what the benefits of this upgrade was other than being cheap.
spark comes from coil
it's used cause $$
stock igniter $350+
gm $15-30
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