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Old 09-23-2003, 02:18 PM   #1 (permalink)
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complete bypass of toy ignitor and coil for 30$

instead of paying for a used ignitor and coil that will probably go out just like the one i had or paying 300$ for a new one i opted for the "easy" gm conversion . like seabass did but instead of using a 1000 ohms resistor and the stock coil i bought a coil for a 1973 chevy truck 350 v8 (or any round coil with negative/positive terminals on it) (11.99 autozone) and a "ignition module" from a 1985 chevy k10 350 v8 truck (14.99 autozone) .

your igntion hot wire (or any hot wire if you wanna have a toggle switch hidden some where) goes to the b terminal on the gm ign modu then from term b run a wire to the positive term on the gm coil. then run a wire from the c term on the gm ign mod to the negative term on the gm coil. then the g and w term on the ign mod go to the two wires coming out of the distributor cap. just use trial and error hooking them up, if you hook em wrong it will idle real high and fast rough, if you hook em up right itll run perfect. theres only two wires so its 50/50 not too hard.

soddering would be best on all the new connections along with grease, also on the bottom side of the gm ignition module is metal that is your ground to bolt it or wire that to your old ground on the fender .

anymore questions feel free to pm me
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Old 09-23-2003, 02:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
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now that is cool.
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Old 09-23-2003, 02:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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very cool
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Old 09-23-2003, 03:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Dude, that kicks ass!
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Old 09-23-2003, 03:41 PM   #5 (permalink)
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and it took about 20 minutes in the dark on the side of the road


also forgot to mention this is for a 22r
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Old 09-23-2003, 04:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
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My last Toyota ignition module lasted 300,00 miles.
When I drove GM trucks, I didn't go anywhere without a spare ignition moule in the glove box beacuse they failed so often. I'll spend the money on a Toyota one. JMO
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Old 09-23-2003, 04:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I'm with Zags. If I wanted Chevy reliability that's what I would have gotten, and I would still get the parts from a GM dealer, not AutoZone.
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Old 09-23-2003, 05:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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the reason the gm mods went out so easy was becuase they were under the dist cap where they got real hot, with this method you can mount it in the glove box away from heat and water and i bet itll last a long time. besides this way youd have to go through about 20 gm mods before costing the same as a new toy one. plus you can stop by any auto parts store and get one for 15$

you also gonna pay 300$ for a spare to keep in your truck for when yers goes out on the trail? or a 15$ spare?
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Old 09-23-2003, 05:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by INFAMOUSBUTCHER

you also gonna pay 300$ for a spare to keep in your truck for when yers goes out on the trail? or a 15$ spare?
With a Toyota one I don't need a spare
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Old 09-23-2003, 05:08 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Ummmm...did you use dialectric grease on the bottom of the module and mount it to some sort of a heat sink? The module's what makes the heat and the distributor base is supposed to be the heat sink. If you didn't you'll be buying another one soon.
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Old 09-23-2003, 05:13 PM   #11 (permalink)
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mines still in the "fix it so i can get home" stage so its dangling not touching anything with a wire connected to it bolted to the old ign mod mount for the ground, so itll cool down quicker i would think


oh well for 15$ imma have 3 spares in my glove box
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Old 09-24-2003, 01:28 PM   #12 (permalink)
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You'll change your mind when it's dark and raining...........
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Old 09-24-2003, 03:57 PM   #13 (permalink)
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im gonna wire it to under the dash so i dont have to get out or even leave my seat for that matter and along with the gm 1 wire alt ill basicly need two wires to run my engine. one hot going to the gm ign mod and one from the alt to the battery

something goes out ill know exactley what it is , even if they dont last as long as a toy im sure itll last long enough for the simplicity of the system to be worth it all. i hate wires
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Old 09-24-2003, 04:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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What a great idea,I wish I had thought of
that...Oh wait,I did,some years back on
the off-road.com site.The GM ignitors dont fail if you use a heatsink.I've had one in my 68 Volvo for 11 years.
The best coil to use is the Accel Super Coil
model 140008.This coil has the correct
input resistance of .5 ohms.The GM ignitor was designed for this load.Also if
the Accel coil is use,you can safely gap
your plugs at .045.I run mine at .040 to
go easy on the rest of the ignition system.
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Old 09-24-2003, 05:17 PM   #15 (permalink)
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good to know,thanks for the added details

next time i do a tune up ill be sure to get one along with gap my plugs more


what exactly is a heatsink?
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Old 09-24-2003, 06:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Here is a picture I snagged from OR.C several years back.... look familiar to anyone?

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Old 09-24-2003, 06:57 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Yes it does,Thanks DRM
This is a Heatsink

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=595947


Last edited by DRM; 09-26-2003 at 10:06 AM.
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Old 09-26-2003, 10:07 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Looks like they not only attached a heatsink, but a fan too. Interesting...
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Old 09-26-2003, 10:17 AM   #19 (permalink)
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you can get those fans at best buy for 10 bucks. small computer fan, and they can move some air too.
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Old 03-28-2004, 09:28 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Old 03-28-2004, 09:40 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I know you said it was an 22R engine but will it work on the RE? Will the computer (and the tach) get the correct signal?
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Old 03-28-2004, 10:05 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I know you said it was an 22R engine but will it work on the RE? Will the computer (and the tach) get the correct signal?
NO, re has 6 leads, doesn't work might be a way to do it with some gm type, but I have not heard of it done as of yet.
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Old 03-29-2004, 06:26 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Now what I need to know is what type of pickup or trigger is in the toyota distributor that this works with?

is it magnetic? reluctor? hall effect?

for instance, does the module send a voltage to teh distributor, and then the distributor only returns the voltage when the pickup is lined up?

or does the distributor itself induce a small current with a coil as teh pickup wheel passes for each cylinder?

I looked in my toyota book but it only goes back to 1989.
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Old 03-29-2004, 01:47 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by ozarkjeep
Now what I need to know is what type of pickup or trigger is in the toyota distributor that this works with?

is it magnetic? reluctor? hall effect?

for instance, does the module send a voltage to teh distributor, and then the distributor only returns the voltage when the pickup is lined up?

or does the distributor itself induce a small current with a coil as teh pickup wheel passes for each cylinder?

I looked in my toyota book but it only goes back to 1989.
I do not know. a guess is not hall effect because there are only 2 leads out of distrubutor. Also do not think it's magnetic, likly reluctor type. all guesses
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Old 03-29-2004, 02:41 PM   #25 (permalink)
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after some reading I think your guesses are spot on!

Thanks for the info, I knew it was an oddball request, but I was sure I had seen it here before.
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