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Old 09-13-2017, 02:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Leaf spring setup tips

Hey all, I've got a 1st gen main RUF setup on my rig with 5.5" shackles, but I feel like I'm not quite getting the droop that I'd like (based on the shackle angle at full droop). Does anyone have any tips on changing my setup for a little more travel? I'm running a tube shaft, so I'm not concerned about over-stretching that.

This picture has the DS jacked up and the PS is drooping as far as possible

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Old 09-13-2017, 02:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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are you running bump stops? they will create a fulcrum that you cane use to increase the weight on the 'droop' side


edit: outside of adding weight, it is only going to 'droop' so far and that is all it should do. what is the point in having the tire on the ground if it doesn't also have any weight on it so that it can get traction? might as well just let it hang out.
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Old 09-13-2017, 03:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Get rid of the 3rd leaf. Also your picture does not show it's full droop potential. You need pressure and the unsprung weight (tire etc.) to provide the leverage. I am currently running OME RUF on my runner and they have tons of down travel. Simply letting the axle hang down on flat ground does nothing to make your suspension work, Unless you have links and they move freely. Also get some shocks and bumps on that thing or you will destroy those springs quick. Just my opinion. Go out and get some real flex shots in action.


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Old 09-13-2017, 04:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I have my leafs set up pretty much the same as yours and it has a lot of droop. As already said you need to actually flex it. I already had put some 14" travel shocks on it and went out, flexed it, and tthen measured for bumps after
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Old 09-13-2017, 04:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You can over droop and it will do nothing, that is one of they reasons the use limiting straps, mostly on linked rigs!!
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Old 09-13-2017, 06:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You have no idea what you are getting into. Put some wheels on it, fill up the bed with ice cheat and camping gear. Your next complaint will be, front driveshaft pulls out, i have too much flex.


What i am trying to say is there is bothing wrong with it. You have no loading or unloading or even tires and wheels on it. It looks good to me.
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Old 09-13-2017, 07:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hmmm, I guess I was just basing my statement about lost flex on the shackle angle. I stood on the knuckle and bounced a bit to see if it was just a lack of the unsprung weight but I feel that it's just about where it's at. The truck didn't change shackle angle hardly at all when I was on the axle. It doesn't flex too bad, it just looked like lost potential to me. I used to have one fewer leafs in there but it's a fairly flat pack as it is and I was worried about reliability, with it almost inverted on one fewer. Shocks are definitely a next step for me, haha. I've been running without them for almost two years now, I wanted to make sure my suspension was set up the way I wanted before I welded in the Ford towers.

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Old 09-13-2017, 07:14 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Put some tires and wheels on it and take it out in the real-world!! Then come back and report your findings!!
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Old 09-13-2017, 07:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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bump stops should be your next step, then shocks
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Old 09-13-2017, 08:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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As others said go flex that shit in a ditch or something, you will have a ton more droop out of it than you are seeing on jackstands.
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Old 09-13-2017, 08:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Sorry, I wasn't very clear, I've been running this setup for a while, this garage flexing is just an example of what I've seen on the trail. Bump stops are definitely on the list, but certainly near the bottom, haha.

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Old 09-13-2017, 09:42 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Bump stops are a critical component. Flex is over rated anyways. It's all about traction. As stated what good is it for aIle of down travel when there is no weight or force behind it. GET BUMP STOPS!
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Old 09-14-2017, 06:27 AM   #13 (permalink)
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No one mentioned, the shackle and pin bolts need to be fastened not locked down. The shackle and pin end bolt should turn freely in the holes. Use stover lock nuts.
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Old 09-16-2017, 04:02 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Shorten the shackle
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Old 09-16-2017, 05:12 PM   #15 (permalink)
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If you want more compress, i would straighten the front spring hagers out. If you want more droop, well, the only thing to limit you is that main leaf, and your shocks.

If you aren't complaining about driveshaft pulling out, i would leave it alone. But the front of your frame needs a bit of attention.
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Old 09-17-2017, 11:05 AM   #16 (permalink)
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If you want more compress, i would straighten the front spring hagers out. If you want more droop, well, the only thing to limit you is that main leaf, and your shocks.

If you aren't complaining about driveshaft pulling out, i would leave it alone. But the front of your frame needs a bit of attention.
The front spring hanger isn't actually bent, that's just the body mount itself that's a bit banged up. The picture angle makes it look weird for sure.

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Old 09-17-2017, 11:18 AM   #17 (permalink)
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On the people saying to go flex it, it definitely flexes a little bit, I was just noticing the shackle angle when I had it set up. Some pics from yesterday, I think it's got a bit more in it past this point, but not much. It's frustrating that I'm still stuffing into my cab corner even with the 1st gen RUFs though...

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Old 09-17-2017, 01:37 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Get a drop hanger for the front and get a set of 3rd gen rears. You'll have more flex than you need.
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Old 09-17-2017, 02:15 PM   #19 (permalink)
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a hammer can fix that body contact.

weld where it touches and you want it to stay, cut where it touches and you don't - words to live by
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Old 09-17-2017, 02:23 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Personally I'd do a drop hanger on the front 4-5" forward. Redrill for rear shackle sleeves in frame. Then find a forward swing fj60/80 steering box with a flat pitman arm where the steering lines up. Tires will stay out of the firewall.
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Old 09-17-2017, 02:38 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Personally I'd do a drop hanger on the front 4-5" forward. Redrill for rear shackle sleeves in frame. Then find a forward swing fj60/80 steering box with a flat pitman arm where the steering lines up. Tires will stay out of the firewall.
Well then... That's certainly one way to keep them out of the cab, haha.

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Old 09-17-2017, 02:39 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Lots of people recommend drop hangers, but unless you're moving it forward to run 51s or something, I don't really see the benefit. It's just like a body lift essentially.

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Old 09-17-2017, 02:47 PM   #23 (permalink)
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swap to a front shackle and the tire will stuff forward instead of back
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Old 09-17-2017, 08:50 PM   #24 (permalink)
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What year are the main leafs for your rufs? You would normally still have to trim the can corners back the the can mount. And what is the approximate offset with those wheels with spacers? And wide tires do not help either. You have a lot of wheel sweep with an already wide tire.

And are those ifs hubs with fj rotors? Or stock straight axle?
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Old 09-17-2017, 08:52 PM   #25 (permalink)
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And ruf is typically done with aftermarket hanger set as far forward as the steering box will allow. Like cut into the core support forward.
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