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Old 11-08-2017, 07:28 AM   #1 (permalink)
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LN65 with built 7m-ge swap from Down Under

Hi all!
This is my first 4x4, i'm completely green to wheeling but not to building cars, driving them and general pirate behaviour.
I was building the engine for my race car but life changes so im building a touring/offroad rig around it instead. Plans are to do lots of outback trips and find some cool new beaches to surf!
Im from sunny Australia, our laws around modifications are a lot different to yours so the build will probably look pretty tame by your standards. 31s are my biggest legal tyres and max 2" of lift.

The truck is a 1985 dual cab with 755k km on the clock and came with a 2L diesel which was promptly removed and sold. It smoked worse than cheech and chong all while making less power than my cordless drill. It's had a pretty crappy respray at some point and all the bushes/shocks were shagged but overall it's surprisingly clean for the age and kms. So far ive only found a small patch of rust in the tub and another small patch under the driver's floor.
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Old 11-08-2017, 07:30 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Here's what it looked like the day i bought it home (14/8/17):




Step 1 - Buy all the things:




Step 2 - Remove the boat anchor diesel donk and balsawood spec G52 gearbox:


Step 3 - Dummy up a motor out of spare parts to see if it fits and start to measure up for engine mounts:
(it fits!!!!!!!)







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Old 11-08-2017, 07:41 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 11-08-2017, 02:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Step 4 - Make up some proper engine mounts and brackets. Snuck the engine back a touch more and ended up with nearly 20mm between the radiator core and crank pulley, it'll probably be 10mm from the shroud.










Step 5 - Modify the gearbox crossmember so it actually bolts up properly. I drilled and tapped 2 new holes in the mount itself so i could reuse 2 existing holes in the crossmember and machined up a piece of square solid to sit nicely in the lip of the crossmember with 2 new holes for rear of the mount. It then got welded in and painted.
Engine and box now bolted in with no stands or anything! Woo hoo!











Meanwhile continue buying things and draining the bank account....

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Old 11-08-2017, 02:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Andrew_ln65 View Post
Tried that as well as but just keep getting the same error.
Need to get my post count up. Anybody know how many i need to be able to link pics?

To be able to post links or images your post count must be greater. You currently have 3 posts.

Please remove links from your message, then you will be able to submit your post.
May sound stupid.. but just reply to this tread 10 times. Come back and link a pic in each post. Looking forward to seeing the truck.
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Old 11-08-2017, 02:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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That doesn't sound stupid at all!! Great idea, thanks!
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Old 11-08-2017, 02:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Step 6 - Turn all this stuff into an exhaust system:


Had to modify the extractors a bit as they came out too low and would have hit the front diff and driveshaft at full compression so i chopped 40mm out of both secondaries and welded them back together, didnt get any pics sorry.

Welded up the whole exhaust, I ground the welds back after this photo cos i hate MIG'd welds but unfortunately i dont have a TIG! Used V-band flanges everywhere instead of the old 2 or 3 bolt style and will never go back!!


It's all tucked up as high as i can while still leaving room for articulation, keeping a nice route for good gas flow and also leaving room for additional fuel and water tankage down the track. Mufflers are both Magnaflow offset/straight-throughs and the cat is a 100 cell high-flow, 2.5"stainless piping all the way with mandrel bends





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Old 11-08-2017, 02:51 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Step whateverwereuptonow - New fit all the new bushes i bought and shocks all round. Bushes are Toyota genuine and the shocks are just cheapo big bore units to suit my 2" lift. Really wanted Bilsteins, but getting tired of spending coin at this point! Down the track ill reassess the suspension, right now i just want the thing running!!
No pics sorry, y'all know what new shocks look like.

Next i fitted a new brake master cylinder and gasket, i pulled the booster off and repainted it too as the brake fluid leak had f*cked the old stuff.
Landcruiser 3/4" clutch master went in too as ill be running a concentric slave cylinder and they like a bit more volume than 5/8.


Cut a new hole in the floor for the transfer lever, ill make a nice plate to go over it all and hide the big gap at the front.


Mounted up my remote oil filter(s):


Easiest filter change ever!!

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Old 11-08-2017, 02:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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New radiator turned up and is bracketed a bit nicer than the old one which saved me another 10mm at the front of motor for accessories and fans, so now i dont need to move the AC pump back. Big win.


Got a LN65 SFA power steering box as the RN85 IFS one i got does not suit without lots of work.
Wideband O2 sensor turned up, and a 2mm metal head gasket for the 7m. The rest of my gearbox rebuild parts arrived too and it looks like all the internal changes i have planned there should work which is good.
Went back and forth to the hose joint for a week trying to sort out all the oil/water/fuel plumbing fittings and it hurts to sit down now but im most of the way through it at least.

Got the electric water pump sitting where i want it and the bottom radiator hose sorted (still need to get the hardline side of it tig'd up by a mate and radiator outlets moved to suit).
Need to make a fitting off the head for the top hose still.





Heater plumbing is mainly sorted, only thing left to work out is how to run the heater return from the core neatly into the bottom hose. Made up a little manifold at the back of the head to hold the temp sensors for the ecu and EWP controller.

Mounted the oil cooler as well. Purposely mounted out of direct airflow as it will get a fan that only comes on when oil temp exceeds 90 degrees so i only get cooling when needed and dont run the oil too cold. My oil plumbing is complicated enough without running a thermostat and bypass circuit as well so this seemed like a better option.





Some time ago i made up a custom bulkhead fitting to get more oil flow out of the pump, instead of crossing over inside the engine and using the (small) galleries in the block this takes oil directly out of the pump and through the sump on a AN-12 fitting, into the cooler, then filter, then back straight into the main oil gallery with -12 lines all the way. Anywho i finally finished it off and modded the sump to suit which allowed me to make the line to the cooler, then cooler to filters. Only oil line left to make is filter back to engine. This little mod (along with other oil mods internally) gives me about twice the flow of the stock oil system.


Got the head all assembled with the new (smaller) cams and valve clearances all set. Ended up changing the exhaust valves over that i had in as they worked better with the new cams but are still a 1mm oversize on stock. The smaller cams/valves and less compression are aimed at making it a bit torquier down low and more off road friendly. Ive dropped it down to 12.4:1 CR and the cams have 268 degrees of adv duration and 8mm of lift. Ive used this profile in several 7Ms in the past and it is a really nice balance of low end torque and still making good power up top. As such ill lower the redline from a planned 9000rpm to the low 8000's.


I also made up a plate to cover up the hole in the floor created by the new longer gearbox which is relieved underneath to take the stock rubber piece. Not overly happy with the look of it in the car to be honest but itll do for now.



Last edited by Andrew_ln65; 11-08-2017 at 03:13 PM.
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Old 11-08-2017, 02:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I receive a fuel pump and the remaining gearbox parts in the mail so box can go together.
Made up the 1 remaining oil line from the filter back into the main oil gallery.
Sorted out some water/heater lines at the back of the head.
Bought and installed some WRX front seats. Started to remove some of the aftermarket crappy stereo bits.
Cut up the instrument cluster to fit my gauges and a tacho that actually goes over 6000 rpm
The water temp gauge will actually be oil temp, water temp is displayed on the EWP controller.



Last edited by Andrew_ln65; 11-08-2017 at 03:15 PM.
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Old 11-08-2017, 02:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Time to assemble the gearbox. New Toyota genuine bearings, seals and syncros throughout. Marlin Crawler thrust washer, bearing retainer, shift fork and shifter bushes/seats. Longer input shaft and taller 5th gear from the Dyna truck. 7mgte bellhousing 7mge clutch and fly

A rather expensive pile of parts:


A rather daunting pile of parts:


Starting to come together with the help of a BFH


Into the intermediate plate they go


Shiny new 5th gear


Shifter gizmos installed


All buttoned up with cases


Last thing to do was setup the concentric slave cylinder spacers and lines etc


Quick peek up its skirt, new heavy duty clutch was balanced with the flywheel


And just a quick vid of all the gears turning and f*cking with my eyes!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zm5qPYzXG4w">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zm5qPYzXG4w" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="344">

Last edited by Andrew_ln65; 11-08-2017 at 03:25 PM.
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Old 11-08-2017, 03:31 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Next job was to finish off the engine. Ive found pics of me starting work on it in 2013 so definitely a drawn out build. Thats what happens when you lose interest and mothball it for a while i guess. Regardless, im bloody stoked to have it all together finally.

Finished off the alternator relocation and mechanical water pump delete, sorted out some more plumbing then gave it all a real good bath to clean everything out from sitting.

One last look at those pretty pistons before the head went on


Head on and torqued, cams getting dialled in


Oil pump primed, pickup fitted and installed in block. Bulkhead fitting all lined up and ready to go. One last peek inside the bottom end


Long motor done!! Woo hoo!!!




Meanwhile my mate who is handy with the welder cleverly suggested that with a bit of cut and pasting we could have the intake manifold a whole lot nicer. I wanted the ACIS variable intake manifold but didnt want it crossing over the engine and putting the airbox on the hot side. So we cut it and he shut it and i ground it and ground it and sanded it and finally we have a nice way to use up all that spare space that was left in the engine bay.


Running out of room for an airbox pretty quickly and im gonna need a MAF to keep the engineer man happy so found a smaller one that might actually give me just enough room.


Manifold all cleaned up and dummy mounted on the motor





One of the last jobs was making the mounting plate for the coil on plug conversion using BA XR6 coils


All done i cant bloody believe it



Unfortunately i had to remove a lot of the shiny billet parts i had made for it but they will all slowly make their way back on once ive got it all rego'd and legit.
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Old 11-08-2017, 03:33 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Engine specs:
7m-ge 3000cc 24 valve I6
12.4:1 compression ratio
268 degree cams
8500rpm redline
Block decked then torque plated bored and honed
Custom 84mm forged flat top pistons by Carrillo with oversize valve reliefs. Teflon coated skirts, ceramic coated crowns
1/4" wall tool steel wrist pins
Eagle rods
7m full counterweight crank ground and polished
Fully balanced and blueprinted
ARP head studs, main studs, rod bolts, flywheel bolts, head stud insert washers
Higher volume turbo oil pump, shimmed relief valve, ported outlet and custom pickup
Custom bulkhead fitting from oil pump outlet directly out of sump
AN-12 oil lines everywhere, twin filters, 50mm thick oil cooler
Needle bearing oil pump shaft retention plate on the front and ball bearing on the rear
Winged, baffled and trap door'd sump
Cometic head gasket
Head heavily CNC ported
Oversized valves
Heavy duty valve springs
Various coolant mods in head
ARP inserts to stop crush around the head studs
Adjustable cam gears
Turbo CPS rebuilt and modified to 24-1 trigger
Mechanical water and power steering pumps deleted and alternator relocated
Billet fitting for head water outlet/thermostat housing (still coming)
Hurricane headers into 2.5" exhaust
Probably a heap of other things ive forgotten!!!


That brings us up to speed of the last 3 months work, progress will resume at normal pace now. Really hoping to have the car running for our summer holidays (christmas onwards)
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Old 11-08-2017, 03:35 PM   #14 (permalink)
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It is so weird seeing all that stuff on the opposite side. Well done though.
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Old 11-08-2017, 04:02 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Old 11-09-2017, 06:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Holy crap...No zip ties, No duct tape, everything nice and clean with billet machined parts. What a hunk of shit.
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Old 11-10-2017, 06:26 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Very nice!

Just curious, you wouldn’t happen to have a copy of the Factory Service Manual for that, would you? There are any number of copies of the FSM online for US models, but I’ve never seen one for models elsewhere in the world - particularly for the dual cabs.
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Old 02-10-2018, 04:55 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Thanks for the comments guys, and apologies on the late reply. No FSM sorry PAToyota.

Ok i feel bad about the lack of updates but progress has been pretty slow the last couple of months due to work commitments and a few weeks away over Christmas. Part of that involved a 2 week road/camping trip up the East Coast into southern QLD which i was really hoping to have the Lux finished for but that just didnt happen unfortunately
Had already bought some of the camping gear so threw that on top of the mrs Rav instead and lived out of that for a bit. Love the roof top tent. 5 minutes to set up and we are ready for bed, same to pack up. We keep all the bedding inside when it's folded up which helps a lot too and saves room in the car -enough for the 40lt fridge







Alright ive managed to sneak a few hours here and there recently and got a few things done:
Mounted the electric PS pump and made up the 2 lines to the steering box. Pump sinks into the inner guard to get it to clear the bonnet, but it's miles off touching the tyre even at full up travel. Welded in a little can for it to sit in and some brackets for the mounts.
Sorted out the fuel lines under the bonnet then dropped the tank to fit a Walbro 255 with a dodgy home made swirl pot. Tank was a shit of a job as the opening was too small to fit the pump through so i had to weld in a section out of a later hilux EFI tank that the hanger bolts to.
Got a set of extended braided brake lines made, bled them up and adjusted the handbrake.
Made a new billet water neck for the head which finally works and clears everything, sorted out a couple more coolant lines. Bought some Spal fans (ouch) and realised just how close they end up to everything. Made a soft mount for the electric water pump.
Then i pulled out the dummy motor, washed and degreased the engine bay, blew over it really quickly with a rattle can so its all one color and repainted the chassis rails where the leaking brake fluid had stripped it.






Cut some rust out of the driver's floor and the tub, hopefully that's all for now







Anyway last night i figured i had enough of my ducks in a row that i could get a mate over to help drop the proper motor and box in. Spent today bolting shit up like manifolds, exhaust etc. Still got a few things to go but it's getting closer finally!!



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Old 03-07-2018, 05:49 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Ok ive been chipping away at the small jobs on this over the last couple of weeks and feel like im finally getting somewhere.

Rebuilt and installed a starter motor



Got onto a brand new genuine toyota 130 amp alternator from a 1KD engine which went in pretty easy. Ive since changed the pulley to a shorter one so it has a some clearance to the fan





Finished off the plumbing side of things. Clutch is done, power steering done, oil lines done bar one fitting to tighten up, water lines done, pcv done, brake booster done, fuel lines done and filter installed.
So far as i can tell, every hose on the car is now brand new.
Next step i guess will be to fill it all with fluids and leak check/bleed everything. Bonus of all the electric accessories is i will be able to "bench test" most of it before even trying to start the engine.

I bought an AC/DC TIG and have been (slowly) learning to weld aluminium with it. Raditor outlets have been moved but im having trouble getting pinholes in one of them so getting a mate over next week to help sort that out.
Fans are mounted to the radiator already. They miss the motor by about 10mm MAX :/

Got an airbox out of a Chrysler Voyager V6 and somehow managed to squeeze it in.






Ive got a throttle cable kit coming in the next few days, once that's made and the radiator sorted then the mechanical part of the build will be basically complete and i can move onto wiring it all up and maybe even starting it. I'm getting excited!!!!!
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Old 03-20-2018, 06:18 PM   #20 (permalink)
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So ive been working away at this and getting it closer and closer to starting.
Throttle cable, radiator and fans all done and installed. I've been chipping away at finalising the instrument cluster and that's nearly done too.
You can see just how little room there is for fans but they do fit. They wrap around the top of the crank pulley with minimal clearance also.





With the radiator done it was time to fill er up with fluids:
Filled gearbox and transfer with oil
Filled clutch fluid and bled. Had a hell of a time getting it to bleed up and i still have a tiny weep from one of the fittings which is a pain but at least i have a pedal now.
Filled it with water, sorted out a couple of pinholes in the bottom radiator hose hardline that i welded, filled it with water again and no leaks woo hoo. Hotwired the electric water pump, got things sloshing around and bled all the air out.
Filled the power steering, hotwired its pump as well and bled it the air out. Power assistance works well although the pump is noisier than i'd like. It's a bit weird having power steering without the engine running!!
Filled the engine with running in oil, wired up the starter and oil pressure switch and cranked til i got pressure -only took as a couple of seconds as i primed the pump pretty well. Doubt there's much over 10psi yet and the oil was cold but so far no leaks. Pretty stoked that my bulkhead fitting out of the oil pump and through the sump seems to be working so far. Engine takes 6.6 litres on a dry fill, up from 5.1 standard due to the lines, cooler and modified sump.

So that's all the fluids filled, bled and ready to go.


Ive started working away on the ecu and wiring in earnest, have most if it nutted out now. Still need to find a nice fuse and relay box to put somewhere for when i do the power side of things though.
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Old 03-21-2018, 08:38 AM   #21 (permalink)
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wow man awesome work

i want to see how the oil pump fitting exit the sump pump
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Old 03-21-2018, 09:41 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Nice work
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Old 03-21-2018, 11:16 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Very cool build. Love how clean and organized the engine bay is. Keep it up!
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Old 03-25-2018, 06:21 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Nice work! Diggin those motor mounts
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Old 03-27-2018, 05:16 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Thanks for the comments guys

OK so the stock 7m oil pump outlet goes via a banjo fitting out of the pump, into a crappy press bent steel pipe which crosses under the crank and goes into a gallery on the other side of the block which feeds up to the oil filter. The hose and banjo bolt are pretty restrictive, you can replace with aftermarket ones but then the gallery in the block is still the next restriction at about 10mm ID so you dont actually gain all that much.

My billet fitting screws into the pump and finishes flush with the inside of the pan at all the right angles etc, with enough gap for a dowry seal washer. The -12 fitting screws through the pan with an aluminium washer in between for sealing. The pump outlet is ported and retapped to M20 x1.5 to make room for all this to happen, and the fittings are also bored out to maximise flow.




So the oil has now left the pump and engine, it goes via a -12 hose into the cooler, then to the twin filters, then back into the engine via another -12 fitting on the other side. It feeds back into the main oil gallery where the filter screws on in a stock system. The gallery that was bypassed has a press in plug to stop leaks and that's about it. Pain in the ass to assemble it all though!!

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