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Old 03-12-2019, 10:55 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Drag Link Angle help

Okay so i would really appreciate some input on this. Ive been searching all over pirate and the rest of the internet and no one seems to be talking about the angle of the draglink in the "Y" directon. That is, when looking at the drag link from above, going from the pitman arm to the knuckle. Im currently a few degrees off from being parallel with the housing and dont know whether this is acceptable or not??
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Old 03-12-2019, 11:20 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Shouldn't be an issue... run it
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Old 03-12-2019, 12:07 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Id be more interested in wether youve got enough throw with draglink mounted that far back on the arms to get your steering lock to lock.
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Old 03-13-2019, 11:53 AM   #29 (permalink)
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That bolt in link crossmember is sketchy. Look into some ruffstuff link mounts for your lowers https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...KBrackets.html
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Old 03-14-2019, 01:53 PM   #30 (permalink)
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well where it is mounted right now it will have more than enough throw as it is a smaller radius circle is traveling about. But Yes i am going to grind off the current mount so i can push the steering box further forward to get the tie rod up on the arm where the drag link currently is.
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Old 03-14-2019, 02:00 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Crossmember design

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Originally Posted by downpour11 View Post
That bolt in link crossmember is sketchy. Look into some ruffstuff link mounts for your lowers https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...KBrackets.html
In regards to the rear crossmember, i originally wanted it to be bolt on to make getting the transfer cases in and out much easier. I was going to do something similar for the front crossmember as i again would like easy access to my drive-train if i ever needed. I was planning on having my skid plate tie in to both crossmembers and have the forces seen from both members somewhat cancel each other out. Any thoughts on this? will that be strong enough? Ive seen others weld the crossmember ends to the frame and have the middle section of the crossmember bolt to both ends. Id appreciate some input.
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Old 03-14-2019, 04:18 PM   #32 (permalink)
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My friend and Co-worker at the time built a skid plate that had both front and rear lower link mounts attached like you describe, or maybe it was just the front, but it looked beefy enough and I never thought twice about it as he had many bolts holding the skid onto the unibody frame. It was on a Jeep Comanche build DD/wheeler with 35" tires.

Most of the bumps and jumps in a well designed link suspension transfers into the shocks which are designed to dissipate that energy through heat (atleast that is how I designed my suspension in theory), so use your best judgement. I have snapped a lower link in half from impact on a rock, but the 9/16" bolt holding the link to the mount held just fine... In the end it's up to you.
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Old 03-14-2019, 08:39 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seanresavy View Post
In regards to the rear crossmember, i originally wanted it to be bolt on to make getting the transfer cases in and out much easier. I was going to do something similar for the front crossmember as i again would like easy access to my drive-train if i ever needed. I was planning on having my skid plate tie in to both crossmembers and have the forces seen from both members somewhat cancel each other out. Any thoughts on this? will that be strong enough? Ive seen others weld the crossmember ends to the frame and have the middle section of the crossmember bolt to both ends. Id appreciate some input.
I'm just sayin', my old setup when i was on a 44/9 was 3link front and rear cuz i was broke as fuck and tapped out my bank account and didnt want to mess with the fuel tank. I had a rear upper frameside johnny joint fail and obviously it wrapped the rear axle and made my rear coilovers into hooks.

It's just not a common thing to rely on some tough-for-now bolts that are the weakest link that hold your rear suspension together when you could just weld mounts to the frame. Honestly that bolt-in crossmember would be my main concern over anything else.

I'm running a blackbox titan to np205 so see pics below for a better solution. Ill have it back sunday and send you some more pics. It's just a tcase mount cut out in 205 pattern and some dom with some couplers, then i am using the ruffstuff mounts for the lowers.

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Last edited by downpour11; 03-14-2019 at 08:43 PM.
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Old 03-19-2019, 12:25 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Looking good, this will be a great trail rig for the Rubicon
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Old 03-20-2019, 05:00 AM   #35 (permalink)
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The 5/8 grade 8 bolts used have many more attributes/credibility than the dozens. Be dizdns if welded brackets seen for years torn from frames and axle housings. Most likely wishbones or single upper links, abd panhard bars. Its always a generic bought 1/4 plate bracket just welded to the frame or axle alone....

A bolt inchunk is only an issue if its flat plate or a design that wont stay rigid when worked. Once twisted up a 5/8 plate upper link truss tower over the dana70 centersection. Triple cases and a tired 22r in relatively mediocre wheeling(rubicon and a couple others on a weeks vacation of combining). Ifits built in a way similar to what you see on lower ifs long travel a arms Boxed plate then bolted to the frame rails u. Many places both vertically and horizontally, it will easily rival any welded bracket on a frame rail in longevity and durability. Totally compounded by skill level in welding as well.

Its just a fancier looking atachment of the method commonly used as 2x3 or 2x4 square/rect tubing crossmenbers creating locations for triangulated links to attach. Id ignore(no disrespect)the opposition and carry on looking at multiple planes abd as much surface area shared withh other brackets/mounts and dropped into plate skabs with plugo welds as well as tge perimeters as possible displacing was the forces. If you simply cut a chunk of plate sized to sneak under your rig as a thick belly pan, then drop 4 lower link brackets on it youll see it easily get bebtup a d twisted. People have a hell of a time n
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Old 03-28-2019, 10:04 AM   #36 (permalink)
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I appreciate the input! the cross member bolting in is my main concern as well now. I will be adding an addition plate for the cross member to bolt to the inside of the frame as well. I think once its all said and done and i have a skid plate tie everything together (front cross member, rear cross member, and frame) it shouldn't be an issue. I did decide to move the steering box forward so i can get the tie rod up on the arms and out of the rocks so i had to remove the existing box mounts (dont ask why i welded them to begin with). But new plates only cost me $16 bucks front trail gear. The mounting kit itself is like $65 now which is wack that they charge an additional $50 bucks for 3 bolts and some sleeves. Started getting the frame reinforcement plates on as well.



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Old 03-28-2019, 07:52 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booger Weldz View Post
The 5/8” grade 8 bolts used have many more attributes/credibility than the dozens. Be dizdns if welded brackets seen for years torn from frames and axle housings. Most likely wishbones or single upper links, abd panhard bars. It’s always a generic bought 1/4” plate bracket just welded to the frame or axle alone....

A bolt inchunk is only an issue if it’s flat plate or a design that won’t stay rigid when worked. Once twisted up a 5/8” plate upper link truss tower over the dana70 centersection. Triple cases and a tired 22r in relatively mediocre wheeling(rubicon and a couple others on a weeks vacation of combining). Ifits built in a way similar to what you see on lower ifs long travel a arms Boxed plate then bolted to the frame rails u. Many places both vertically and horizontally, it will easily rival any welded bracket on a frame rail in longevity and durability. Totally compounded by skill level in welding as well.

It’s just a fancier looking atachment of the method commonly used as 2x3 or 2x4 square/rect tubing crossmenbers creating locations for triangulated links to attach. I’d ignore(no disrespect)the opposition and carry on looking at multiple planes abd as much surface area shared withh other brackets/mounts and dropped into plate skabs with plugo welds as well as tge perimeters as possible displacing was the forces. If you simply cut a chunk of plate sized to sneak under your rig as a thick belly pan, then drop 4 lower link brackets on it you’ll see it easily get bebtup a d twisted. People have a hell of a time n
well, this is rare, I totally disagree (kinda)
the way that front lower link cross member/bracket is bolted in in the picture is not going to survive, I do agree that if horizontal bolts were added and he boxed the frame with a sleeve put in the frame for all the bolts it would work fine, but without sleeves in the frame and 3 horizontal and 3 vertical bolts on each side, I would not begin to trust it. I think the best would be to sandwich the frame verticaly with the crossmember, that said, good to see you on booger.
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Last edited by dragrcr65; 03-28-2019 at 07:58 PM.
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Old 04-03-2019, 11:49 AM   #38 (permalink)
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So i was able to make some lower link axle mounts with the plasma table at school which came out really well. Also got some new tie rod ends and moved the tie rod up on to the high steer arms. Regarding the crossmember: i need the center section to be able to come up and down so i can get the cases in and out. So i was thinking of welding the crossmember to the frame, and then cutting out the middle section and welding on flanges making the middle section able to bolt in and out. Thoughts?



Last edited by seanresavy; 04-03-2019 at 11:51 AM.
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Old 04-04-2019, 08:24 AM   #39 (permalink)
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pics no worky for me
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Old 04-04-2019, 09:27 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seanresavy View Post
So i was able to make some lower link axle mounts with the plasma table at school which came out really well. Also got some new tie rod ends and moved the tie rod up on to the high steer arms. Regarding the crossmember: i need the center section to be able to come up and down so i can get the cases in and out. So i was thinking of welding the crossmember to the frame, and then cutting out the middle section and welding on flanges making the middle section able to bolt in and out. Thoughts?
Why not use couplers like mine in the pics above? Keeps it simple
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Old 04-05-2019, 11:19 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Why not use couplers like mine in the pics above? Keeps it simple
Thinking about it, whered you order your from @downpour11??
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Old 04-06-2019, 04:37 PM   #42 (permalink)
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One stop shop sir

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...RS-CLAMPS.html

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Old 05-02-2019, 11:15 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Alright so school is finally out for the semester and i have a good week before i start work so im trying to make good use of my time. I Finally started linking up the front. After contemplating for a while i decided to take downpour11's advice and have all of my link brackets be welded to the frame with the middle section being removable. I made some outriggers that will be glued to the inside of the frame where my front lower link frame mounts can mount to. Once everything is finalized i will run some tubing across to take care of any lateral forces the mounts will be seeing. I will be working on getting my upper link and maybe panhard bar tacked later today as well.







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